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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/08/2019 in all areas

  1. 11 points

    Skyraider 1/32 Trumpeter.

    Hey folchs..... go to Workbench 100% full ..... Art box. Engine cables. Firewall. Adjust…. Correct the fluid tank. Assembly test. Radiator full scratch Aluminun coat. Cockpit parts. Speed brake. Speed brake support in aluminun. Functional system. Tail… By my friends….
  2. 9 points


    Started on the 9th of December... Every year I try to do a 'clear the bench' build over Christmas, this year it was this one: Not sure why folks seem to shy-away from the Trumpy 109E kits almost all the completed ones that I have seen here are from the Eduard and Dragon kits. Ahh well... I thoroughly enjoyed every minute of this one. Perfect fit everywhere, lots of detail, excellent etch, decals and phenomenal clear parts. (not so excellent rubber tyres tho'). For a change I broke-out my enamels for the 74/75/76/04 colours, all of which I mixed using my preferred Mk.I eyeball method. Highly recommend this to anyone contemplating a 1:32 build and perhaps a wee bit put-off by the excessive parts-count and cost of some of the 'uber kits' around just now - I got this off a well-known on-line auction site from a Chinese based seller for just £16.50 !!!!! (that's as good as giving it away) even down here to NZ the postage was just ten-quid. So here t'is all done only addition is the kit specific Eduard Zoom set which includes the harness too; And I have to admit that I'm very pleased with it. Please feel free to hurl any criticism, ask any questions or make any comment at all. Thanks for taking the time to look and Happy 2019 to all here. Ian.
  3. 8 points

    B17G "D Day Doll"

    Since I had completed one wheel bay I figured that I would re-start the build by finishing the other. Then I figured that I would complete the wings as doing this would remove a large swath of plastic from the sprues and at least give me the impression that I am making good progress!! The bays were painted MRP black followed by various shades of Alclad, I applied a wash using Flory dark dirt, I went with Flory as being clay based this wash negated the need to seal the Alclad with clear (I would have used Tamiya X22 not floor cleaner!) Fitting the bays required much thinning of plastic both on the completed bays and the inside of the wings, this may have been my fault as the fit tolerences are tight and any slight fit issues on the bays caused by errant paint on mating surfaces causes issues with joining the wing halves. I eventually got the wings together however the engine nacels required much shimming up and filling. I just need to re-scribe and rivet some lost detail and the wings are done. More soon, thanks for stopping in!
  4. 7 points
    David Mooney

    A nice set of 1/32 'Jug's'

    After completing the second of the two P-47D, I couldnt help myself with the title of this post :-) This aircraft is 42-75242 which was flown by Capt Michael Quirk flying for 62nd FS/56th FG, Halesworth. Now the two Jug's together...... Jug #2 can be seen @ Thanks for looking at me Jugs
  5. 7 points

    JASDF F-4EJ Kai

    Here is my entry into the group build. Still rounding up the last of the after market parts I need.
  6. 6 points
    Happy New Year everybody! It's about time to post the pics of my finished 1/32nd scale Viking. The background is not ideal as the photo booth is too small. No way to take photos of the diorama either - I'll have to wait for better weather to take these photos. Anyway, no need for a lot of text this time - for those interested in the building process, here's the link to the WIP: Comments, critique and questions are welcome as usual!
  7. 6 points

    Iconicair Supermarine Attacker

    Thanks Joachim. I am very happy with the RP tools punch and die set. I have both the small and large sets and use them all the time. A reasonably large investment but I am a firm believer that a quality tool in hand is better than an unbuilt kit in the stash, so I don’t mind diverting funds toward that sort of thing. I am having a fair bit of trouble settling on a particular aircraft to depict. The Attacker had two slightly different versions, being the F.1/F.B.1 and the FB.2 both sort of able to be made from the kit. The kit as presented I believe represents an in between mix of both versions and some thought will be required if you wish it to be an accurate depiction of a certain aircraft. I am certainly open to suggestions and also correction if I have the details wrong. I have a mask cutter, so I am not limited to the kit provided decals for the serial number. The F.1 was equipped with an earlier version of the Nene and had a cleaner fuselage. The kit has 4 vents around the tailcone (see the post regarding my exhaust mod to see what I am talking about) which was a feature of the FB.2 so these will need to be removed. Conversely, the FB.2 whilst featuring the vents also had two small intakes, one on either side of the rear fuselage adjacent to the front of the tail fillet. These are not supplied in the kit so will need to be scratchbuilt if wanting to depict an FB.2. Neither mod would be too hard to give either version but I like to try and get things right. The quandary that I now have myself in is which one to pick? I had a rough idea of the features and scheme that I would like but finding one that has all the boxes ticked has proven difficult. My list so far; F.1 spec, Large J on the tail, red nose, earlier un framed canopy and also the large underbelly fuel tank. Finding a picture that has all of those has so far eluded me. It seems like the best compromise would be to go for the later framed canopy which would give me the rest of the features and all I would have to do is remove the vents around the tailcone. Whilst I try and work out what I want to do (I am going through the same process with my Booemrang build) I can fiddle with some of the smaller details to buy me some time. The kit represents the wingtip nav lights with engraved detail. I cut out the area of the lights and tacked in a piece of clear resin This was easy enough to shape with a coarse sanding stick I refined the final shape by using a finer sanding stick followed by some wet and dry. These lights are easy enough to pop off and I will dip them in clear red and green paint and reattach them once I have finished painting the model.
  8. 6 points

    Revell 1/32 Lockheed P-38J Lightning

    I built this kit last year straight OOB and rather enjoyed it.
  9. 5 points

    Revell 1/32 Lockheed P-38J Lightning

    I've decided to jump into the GB train with this old kit I have bought some 30 years ago. I think I need to build this one as it was my teenage dream, but I have never managed to get to it. But it survived all those years in my possession, so it deserves some attention. It should be just an OOB build, as quick as possible. Which means one year should be enough for me to finish it. "My Dad" version is the plan, but I doubt the decals will be fit to use, so we will see. Juraj
  10. 5 points
    It's more likely to mean that the engines are underscale in order to accommodate the thickness of the cowl plastic. This is a common problem with aircraft models that feature exposed (or exposable) engines. Kev
  11. 4 points
    I gathered the white 3 info from two different places about Marseille, but it could have been fabricated for all I know. Since it's a what if, I'm probably just going to leave it.......... On another note thanks to an LSP member I may have another couple of surprises for the Do-335! In the form of two Ruhrstahl wire guided missiles.
  12. 4 points
    This arrived in the mail today. Very happy with the quality of the PH and decals.
  13. 4 points
    Thanks for all the info Jay - I have found the drawings of the panels and copied them to make up PE versions - also caught they are different each side as there is a hatch at the front of one side.. the panels denote the aperture angle so I will go with that - I think they will turn out pretty cool as I can get all the fastners etc as well. I am just about to get a test shot for a new Hobbyboss B24 cockpit set I am doing so have made up a P51 set with a load more bits & external panels I can get run in that test shot Thanks Kage - very useful - I am talking to Arthur about getting a 1/18 set but also he has some amazing CAD I want section drawings of too, however he is a bit busy with kit CAD work so will be a while I expect.. I will get there eventually - there is a difference by the sounds of it - to quote Arthur in recent correspondence: "the wings of the P51B and C were very different structurally from the P51D. The rib positions in the gun bay area were different, the wing root and undercarriage doors were different and the cut line for the outer wing tips was in a different location" I assume if the ribs were in different locations, the doors would be different too? so, Happy New Year folks & onto this P51.. having corrected the fin and added a dorsal fin, the stabilisers were next. I checked the parts and again unfortunately they were not up to my accuracy standards so I set about making new ones. I learned from my Spit not to make and skin the stabilisers before adding them (easy to damage the skins..) so I thought I would just get them built & added now.. ..started with the mounts & fillets - first I copied the aerofoil section in brass and used drawings to locate them, after that I added a brass tube to mount them to and started to set out the slight incidence they have... ..once all was set up they were cemented into position and filler added to start to blend them in - this is P40 car filler and is super useful for modelling - I taped up the brass face so as not to have to clean it up later.. ..after shaping & priming they were done.. ..the stabilisers themselves were taken from drawings and set out on 3mm plastic card (with marked rib positions) - as were the spars.. ..test fitting.. ..bulked out with more P40 and sanded until I can see the blach sharpie lines along the tops of the ribs.. ..and fixed with JB Weld - I drilled small holes on the mating faces to let the adhesive really get a good hold of the parts.. ..will clean them up later.. ..while they were drying, I started to think about the airscoop.. pretty challenging set of curves nad the resin part that came was not quite right, passable, but not perfect.. you can see the features here include a straight, sharp top, curved bottom and 'V' shaped fairing between it and the fuselage... going to be a laugh skinning this in litho thats for sure.. ..again, all the drawings are in aircorps library so I scaled a set of formers and a keel - the keel has had a bit of the hollow inside removed... ..this is the assembled according to the former positions and a big, hard card lip so get that top edge right.. ..I want to skin the inside in litho so made up paper & tape templates to get the shapes.. ..cut out the shapes, added rows of rivets and fitted them to the central tunnel.. you can see it is slathered in CA to give the whole thing rigidity as much will be removed from the structure.. also added a dam from card at the top to roughly shape the triangle fillet where it joins the fuselage... ..then the whole thing is covered in more P40... ..lost of sanding to do, so thats a job for the garden tomorrow before I go back to work on Wednesday TTFN Peter
  14. 3 points

    Nellis Splinter Eagle - Tamiya F-15C

    Post title says it all! Going to build this concurrently with the Mosquito. Tamiya F-15C + Speed Hunter decals + Eduard interior + Phase Hangar exhaust and seamless intakes. Will be ordering the resin when the intakes go live (hopefully this week), and there is plenty that can be done before those arrive. I started this kit a few weeks back - base painting in the cockpit tub, side walls and nose well, tub/well joined and nose weight added. No attention will be paid to the avionics bays as I'm building with canopy and panels closed.
  15. 3 points
    Howdy folks, I've just published my review of the new Halberstadt Cl.II (Late) kit from Wingnut Wings: Wingnut Wings 32062: Halberstadt Cl.II (Late) Thanks as always to Wingnut Wings for the review sample. Enjoy! Kev
  16. 3 points
    Tim, thanks for taking the time to give the ins and outs of Trump's P-38. From what you say it'll make into a good looking model w/o heroic efforts. Was considering a Ju 88, but will start by trying Woody's (Archer Fine Transfers) technique of filling divots on the 38 - link is on his F4F build post. Appreciate You, (Time honored East Texas expression) D.B.
  17. 3 points
    Everything that Tim posted is right on the money. The Trumpeter is a better kit, but depending how you want to go, it can be a lot of work or a whole lot of work. Did do a build on one for a GB, a lot of work but i'm happy with the results. If i did another i would still start with the Trumpeter kit... Don
  18. 3 points

    Revell 1/32 Lockheed P-38J Lightning

    Yes, the Trumpeter kit is light years better for overall accuracy, though still not perfect. It's chief shortcoming is that the recessed rivets are way too big and deep, as are the panel lines. However, most of that can be corrected by some primer and sanding, which you'd want to do anyway to get the finish smooth, get low spots out, etc. The lines aren't too bad for placement, either. The pit and gear bays are still pretty sparse and not 100% accurate, but they can benefit from some good AM, of which there is quite a lot available. The gun bay is crap, though, so I'd close it up unless you want to do a ton of scratching. Even the available AM for the gun bay doesn;t even get it close, to my eye, anyway. Having built both, the Trumpeter kit is still the way to go if you're wanting an accurate final product but it will still take some work. I keep hoping someone like Tamiya, HK, or ZM will eventually make a really good one. The Revell kit is still a fun OOB build for the price if you wanna bang one together in a weekend for giggles. And Juraj is the guy who can pull this one off like no other! Tim
  19. 3 points
    Steve, wow - thanks for the kind words! I'm still kicking around, though the past year has been a bit of a knock down - drag out sort of fight for me. Suffice it to say (without getting into too many boring details) that I'm up, I'm more or less ok, and I have every intention of finishing this kit at my first opportunity. I've found another - far crazier than I - who's done even more impressive work to update and correct the numerous small, but important inaccuracies of the Trumpeter kit. John Wolstenholme has an absolutely stunning WIP going on over at ARC. Absolutely worth a click through and a few minutes to see the art he's created as well. Many of the fixes were almost identical to my own, but many many more were pure genius in how he solved a number of issues. At any rate, thanks again for checking in. I hope to be back in the modeling saddle again sometime this year. Cheers! Brian~
  20. 3 points
    More work on the Jugg. As per Matt’s post, the butchered front end. A quick test fit shows this to work a treat: Main engine parts before weathering: Main engine parts assembled with ignition wires and a bit of weathering (black and burnt umber oil mix): I plan to finish the weathering with a few pigments. And finally, the wheel wells. I initially tried Tamiya’s yellow green but it appeared to be too green. This final colour is AK's new Real Color Yellow Chromate: That's all for now. Paul
  21. 3 points
    I don't really have a preference for either brand, as long as the finished product gets reviewed out as OK. I have no particular loyalty to any brand.
  22. 3 points

    CSM Nieuport 17 (Late)

    Some more details... Cockpit bracing is complete. I don't much care for passing the EZ-Line back through one of Bob's Buckles tubes! A couple of small parts still to add - I painted them on the sprue. Finally, some assembly. Rudder pedals, control stick and seat still to come...
  23. 3 points

    Iconicair Supermarine Attacker

    The wing join makes the cannon fairings a bit misaligned as the join passes straight through them. I wanted to make sure the barrels lined up and also fix up the area in question at the same time. First up, I drilled out the holes that the barrels fit into and fitted some brass tube. I then used the length of the brass tube to ensure that it was aligned with the longitudinal axis of the the model and glued it in place. I repeated it for the other barrel and did the same on the other wing. These tubes were then cut off with a small amount protruding to match the area where the barrels fair into the wings and the rear of the barrels themselves, I punched out some disks from plastic card that exactly match the diameter of the cannons. These disks were then fitted over the ends of the brass tubes already glued into the wing and then the wing was filled and sanded to match the diameter of the disks. Notice that I have also drilled a section of brass rod into the barrels that will give them plenty of strength and and also slide straight into the tubes glued into the wings. Dry fitted. I can leave these off until the last minute to prevent them from becoming damaged.
  24. 3 points
    building the interior, many parts and lot of painting thanks for looking jan
  25. 3 points

    Do 335 B-2, Eastern Front What If

    And here are examples of the paint scheme, from the Classic Colours Jagdwaffe series: I actually hope to do "White III" some day, too.