Iain

Part of my reasoning Thierry was that I was nervous/felt bad cutting up a very rare model... One thought I had was to make moulds off the parts and cast resin copies - purely for my own use, obviously - and keep the kit original, unbuilt, in the box. But it's been a looooong time since I last looked at it. If my memory is correct, I think the kits were originally commissioned/done for members of the Alpha Jet programme back in the '70s? Iain

This is where I was at: Above: F1a Above: F Mk 3 Above: F Mk 6 Canopy and cockpit sill area... Cannon ports... Iain

As Tony has said, the Aires back end fits the Echelon kit because it appears was designed for accuracy, rather than fitting the Trumpeter kit. I still have all the patterns I made somewhere - a *lot* of time and effort went into them and they would make the Trumpeter kits look a lot better IMHO. I *may* have a chat with Tim Perry for some advice on 'productionising' - will see if I can find them first... Patterns need surface detailing - and I stalled at the wings. Iain

Have to say - a *lot* of work, but she is looking rather good!! Iain

Now that *is* a rare find Thierry! I was going to take a plaster cast as a female mould for vacuum formimg a new canopy - but have never got around to it. I think the shapes look pretty good? Might be tempted to sell mine actually... Iain

Well, the mention of X-15 piqued my interest as I didn't think Revell had ever re-boxed that. But that made me *have* to go and take a look and I've walked away with 2 kits I didn't realise I wanted! Just dug out the two X-1 projects I started almost 20 years ago and wasn't overly happy with progress on - with Cutting Edge Decals and X-1E conversion/decals. At that money I can restart afresh, or make more schemes. Not sure how well the decals will have lasted in the loft though... Iain (with yet more squirrels)

Thanks Mike - 2 x Bell X-1s ordered @£15 each with free postage... Iain

Thanks Max - may have to order a set of those. I really want to build a few large scale Chipmunks - here's our 'Supermunk'. Iain

That's better - re-bonded with EMA Plastic Weld - I think that'll be the go to for any further ABS bonding. You live and learn... Iain

Whose drawings are those Max? Iain

In further news re. using Revell Contacta on the ABS parts... DON'T! Looking at the bonded fuselage parts I noticed a crack forming - a little pressure and I was able to separate the bonded parts again relatively easily. Previously bonded surfaces will be dressed off with the sanding bar to remove any remnants of Contacta and I'll re-bond with Plastic Weld. One step back - but further up the learning curve! Iain

As others have said - personally, I'd avoid. The ones I've had have has less strength than the plastic parts they are meant to replace. Iain

I took the question as "does the Revell Contacta work with the One Man Model prints in ABS" - to which the answer is, apparently, yes! Until it all falls apart on me... EDIT: Well, they sort of fell apart - see post below... But, yes, FDM prints for scale model use should, ideally, be printed using HIPS IMHO. The ABS prints *are* pretty tough though... Iain

Indeed - I can vouch for Gary/Redcap - I had a box of assorted WingNut kits from him a while back - personally delivered! Iain

RIP to the crews - condolences to family, friends and all involved... Iain

Well done guys! Sounds like you had a brilliant weekend... Iain

Cracking subject... I *may* just have to start saving some pennies - she won't be cheap! Iain

Thanks Thierry, that's good to know! Iain

I have a good stash of 5 thou Thierry - probably a very similar thickness? Iain

Great start Dutik... Look forward to seeing this one progress! Iain

In-between being a 'Dad's Taxi' today (son doing remembrance parade locally as an Air Cadet), emergency plumbing and doing some work on one of my motorcycles, I've had a chance to try out my newly arrived Japanese Flush Cut Trim Hand Saw - and, I'm pleased to report, it's worked exactly as I hoped. Actually, slightly better than I'd hoped! The foil is pretty thin - which is excellent, but it can twist and flex - so I applied pressure down onto the blade - using the printed floor as the cutting guide: And this happened - exactly what I was after. It's even separated the rudder pedal assemblies! The internal sections can now be surface prepped and detailed prior to re-assembly to the floor - with some components moved to suit the E3 version I'm building... The floor sections will have their surfaces sanded back - to be re-skinned with styrene sheet and surface detail. With the two main sections of floor there's quite an area to work with! Bye for now... Iain

I just don't have the time to participate in Group Builds these days - and already have waaaaay too many projects on the go as it is... Length and complexity of builds in the larger scales don't always lend themselves to Group Builds - but, large dose of mea culpa aside, it's good when they are supported. Iain

When modelling really is an art form - love it! Iain

It certainly appears to Matt! I'm using the stuff in the bottle with a tube applicator... Iain

Thanks Anthony. I'm trying to post step by step - and possibly over-doing it - but the techniques I'm using here may be of use to anyone building/contemplating a 3D printed kit. I know the Andover isn't on everyone's radar as a subject - but exactly the same processes could be applied to an Orion, or any of the other 3D printed subjects. This has to be one of the most rewarding projects I've started - but with it sidetracking me into doing my own 3D prints, it's also proving to have been the most expensive! *If* I can see it through to the end, I think she'll look very impressive! Iain