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ericg

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ericg last won the day on January 19

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About ericg

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  • Birthday 03/03/1978

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  1. Don’t use gloss black. Use a non glossy black paint, in my case I use SMS Camo black or even Tamiya Acrylic black. This gives a nice even sheen of satin black. This will then give a base upon which to build up varying layers of metal such as Alclad to achieve a realistic bare metal finish which can then be glossed over if you which to go for a polished look. It’s all about the way the metal paint is applied. A few tightly mottled coats of the base metal to give it a grain and then lighter coats of the metal to build it up a bit.
  2. Thanks for the comments guys. some more work. I asked Ron about the configuration of the ordnance. Some photos show Napalm on the outer pylons, some show them on the inners. Likewise for the bombs. Here is what he had to say. ‘One of the photos shows a typical load, (and the one used on the mission we have spoken about) with 2 Mk82 high drag bombs on the outboard stations, and 2 Napalm cans on the inboard stations. Second photo shows me just before a combat mission in late 1968. Third photo is unusual. In late 1968 our squadron (615th TFS) was made experimental. We were to try out what was called Triple Ejector Racks (TER). Instead of a single weapon on the inboard pylons, this new rack could carry 3 bombs. Couldn't carry 3 napalm cans because that would make the aircraft too heavy and the cans were to "fat" to fit on the racks. Thought you might like to see this configuration.’ Here are the pics. And here is the excellent pic of Ron about to depart on a combat mission. As the bombs were to go on the outer pylons, my references showed that they were different to the kit pylons. There are protrusions each side of the pylon which form more beefed up sway braces, so these were scratch built from thick plastic card and sanded to shape. I then used brass rod and disks of plastic card to make up each individual brace. The bombs have had brass rod inserted into them to attach them very firmly to each pylon. Basic colours. I will weather and detail these a lot more than this. Many of my period reference pics of combat jets show them with numerous lift point symbols. These decals were not present in both the kit or the aftermarket Cam Pro stencil data sheet. I made up a mask with my mask cutter and sprayed them on. Forward fuselage. There is one on the rear of the canopy as well. Rear fuselage. I was able to find a pic with two lift point symbols on the horizontal stabilisers but was unable to find anything for the wings, if they were there. Any help would be appreciated. How the model sits on my workbench. Still lots to do but certainly getting there. Noticeable is the armament panel decal, once again not in either decal sheets. I found one in the AoA set for the Cessna O-2.
  3. Its sad that we think that kits will need correcting by aftermarket manufacturers even before they come out. It would be nice if companies could get things right in the first place!
  4. Cheers guys. Some more work. I think the model sits a little flat and needs the characteristic tail heavy look. I read on another build somewhere that they took 3mm off the top of the main gear legs. I decided to go with 2mm to begin with, and take it from the middle of each leg so that the geometry of the extension link and gear doors stayed the same. For this mod, I am using the plastic gear legs as they are very sturdy, although my process will actually add a bit more strength to them. I started by drilling a hole all the way down the leg, from the top. i used my vernier calliper to measure 2mm, and pressed the sharp edge at intervals around the circumference of the leg to give me a guide. The brass rod has been inserted after I cut the 2mm section out and has been positioned for reference. By pre drilling the hole before the cut, the alignment has been pre set. I removed the cut section and refitted the leg together after this pic was taken. I made up some masks using my mask cutter for the tail numbers and letters and the National insignias. ‘197 is alive again. The sit of the model is now a little more tail heavy which I may drop a little more once I have all the stuff hanging off the bottom of the aircraft sorted out. Some more weathering effects have been added such as the wing roots and the panel behind the cockpit. This was done with a very thin mix of Tamiya Zinc chromate paint. Further work on the back end. The VZ has been sanded down whilst the 197 has not yet been touched. As can be seen, the back end is really starting to come to life.
  5. Thanks very much for the comments guys, appreciated. The area where the fuselage meets the tail was a bit too sharp for my liking, comparing it to photos showed a more gradual bend. i squared off the area concerned Glued a lump of resin in its place The new shape. Much better. The prop was next on the radar to be fixed. Whilst resin is a great material to model in, I find that some areas will warp over time so I avoid that by stiffening them up. The prop was a bit curly, whether that was the way the master has been made or whether it is slightly warped. I bent each blade out of the way and drilled through its root, into the spinner, I then cut a trench into the back of each blade, meeting up with the hole that I had just drilled. I cut brass rod that fit into the hole and the trench, which was then superglued into place. The blades were then straightened before I filled the holes. Straight as a die. Sprayed with SMS primer filler and sanded.
  6. Thanks for the comment guys. Nice! Would be great to see a picture or two of you and an F-100. Some more work. I had a bit of a play with the tan colour as I felt it looked a bit too pink. I shaded it with a very thin mix of Model Master enamel Tan to brown it up a little. I have started post shading some lighter areas of each base colour. The scorched areas are still a work in progress.
  7. Thanks for the comment guys. On to the painting stage. I like using the black base method for light colours and metal, so I painted the entire under surface black using another excellent SMS product called Camo black. This paint gives a very smooth satin finish which is very hard wearing straight from the bottle. Thus was my mottled coat of the light grey, which will provide a base for subsequent light coats of the same colour. I extended the black base up over the rear fuselage and pre shaded the top surface. The start of the bare metal effect on the rear fuselage. I split the area up into 3 zones as can be seen. From the front I used Alclad Duraluminum, AK extreme metal Duraluminum and Alclad Gunmetal as the base colours. These were mottled over each area. I then used Alclad pale burnt metal thinned with MRP lacquer thinner and mottled it over each panel. This was followed by a further thinned mix of Alclad Gunmetal which gives selected areas a purple discoloured look. It moves around a bit depending on the light. I then started to sketch the different cam colours on the upper side. I build up each colour organically so that it doesn’t look too sterile. I used MRP paints. The rough shapes in place. I have further refined each shape since this pic was taken. An important part of the model is the scorched areas of paint on the rear fuselage. I don’t have any pics of 197 that show this area (although an ultra high res photo of it will show up the day after I finish it) so I have worked off a few pics of different aircraft to come up with a composite. I am leaving the two rear most panels alone and will apply the scorched effect to the front. I lightened the base colour and have sprayed the outer areas of the panel lines to represent the oxidised paint. Over the top of this will be applied the base colour. More to come later.
  8. The tweak list mentions the fairing `scabbed' onto the fuselage either side of the exhaust section. It took me a while to work out what they were talking about, but once you see it, it makes sense. They are the two triangular protrusions at the aft end, as shown here. Notice that they are very thick. Here is the fairing from the side. To correctly depict the fairing, a new panel line needs to be scribed, which will clearly define this as a separate part which is bolted onto the fuselage. You can see the old panel line that I have filled and sanded. SMS Primer filler has been sprayed onto the modified area and sanded smooth. The next step was to thin the edges of each of the protrusions and I glued some rounded plastic card onto the inside. The completed modification. Each of the two D shaped divots behind the cockpit were hollowed out, and a new ramp was made from plastic card. Also visible is the 4 new scribed latches on the panel immediately forward of the panel with the divot. Took me a couple of goes to get them right hence the `shadow' of the failed attempts. The landing lights were a little too far back, so I filled these with thick disks of plastic card, and repositioned them a little further forward. I also made up some new gas purge vent pipes from brass tube as can be seen The area around the cannon ports was very simplified, so quite a few new panel lines were scibed in this area, as well as screw holes. Primed! Lots of little circles and squiggles that I have drawn on the model with a lead pencil to identify areas that needed to be fixed.
  9. I picked this kit up from a very good friend of mine at a great price the other day and it got the better of me and had to be built! I have the Aerotech MC 72 almost ready for primer but have sidelined it again because I need to rework the wings. I need a civil aircraft build for the shows that I attend throughout the year and thought this would fit the bill nicely. The sturdy box. Not much in the way of artwork, the artwork is inside the box! Full of white metal, resin and photo etch. Fairly basic but perfectly adequate instructions, colour chart and certificate (a nice touch) A quick paw through the parts. These are very basic kits but make for stunning replicas once finished provided that a bit of extra tweaking is carried out. This kit seems to be a little smoother than previous releases. I primed the interior with Tamiya fine surface primer, and then sprayed SMS Primer Surfacer to allow for a bit of sanding to smooth out the cockpit a bit. I sprayed the cockpit with SMS Pilbara, and used a dark wash around the details. Not much if this is going to be seen so I haven’t spent too much time detailing it. The wings of this kit are very thin and I have a couple of resin kits built in the past that have had the wings start to droop in my display cabinet. I don’t trust any kit to not do the same thing so I now insert brass rod into everything. The following method works well. It is not for the faint of heart, especially on an almost $300AUD kit. I have done this to all 4 parts of the wings, and took pics of different wings during the process. I use the other end of an appropriately sized drill bit to cut a deep trench into the resin, down along a straight edge ruler. I embed brass rod into the wing, glued in place with superglue and the resulting top of the trench is filled with a superglue/talc mix and sanded smooth. A check coat of SMS Primer Surfacer which is then sanded smooth. Most of the area of each wing is covered by photo etch surface radiators, so the worked area will be covered. I made the rod pass through the major join in the top wings to give this area a lot more strength. I drilled and inserted rod into the horizontal stabilisers. Not quite as drastic a measure this time. The rod has extends as far into the part as the drill bit shows, and has been positioned through the tab to give the join some strength as well. All major parts complete. The floats and struts have been dry fitted. The refinement can now begin.
  10. Some more work. I didn't like the way that Trumpeter have the canopy hinged at the rear. Looking it at a few other builds online, it is obvious that this part of the model is left until last and probably suffers a bit from get-it-finished syndrome and is just tacked on as an afterthought. Here is the way it fits without modification to the fuselage. Notice that I have used the Aires canopy framing, which has been painted and glued in place using superglue. I like to make my canopies removable for transport if I can and needed to devise a method of doing so on this model. I removed the kit hinge points and drilled and inserted some brass tube into the resin canopy frame. I inserted a a short piece of small diameter brass rod into the tube to act as an alignment peg. I then filed a small groove into a larger piece of brass tube which fits nicely over the first part. Notice that I have ground away a fair bit of the rear edge of the resin part. I slightly compressed the aft end of the larger diameter brass tube to make the canopy a press fit and then superglued it into the fuselage. The new position of the canopy. Notice that it is significantly further back over the fuselage, as per my references. the rear lip of the canopy had to be thinned as per the edge of the resin canopy frame to allow this. I now have a very sturdily mounted canopy, easily removed for transport. Going through the excellent F-100 tweak list written by Ben Brown and Thierry Laurent, it is obvious that there is scope for many small improvements of the kit. Most of these are easy to do, and are actually quite alot of fun to try and find references for! Now that I have finished most of the bulky parts of the kit, it is time to refine it as much as possible, and using their list as a guide I am working out which ones I will do. Starting with the tanks. I am building a later version of the F-100 which carried longer tanks. The kit is equipped with 275-gallon drop tanks. The aircraft that I am depicting carried 335 gallon tanks which were 28 inches longer via a plug forward of the pylon. This equates to 22.23 mm longer. Here is the kit tank. In a later update, I will correct the forward fuel filler hole and add a new one in the aft section, as well as fix the fins. I made up a 22.23 mm plug from a buddy refuelling pod which was exactly the right diameter and which had just enough for 2 parallel section of that length. Inside this, I added some tabs from another small tank. I cut the kit tank at the major panel line aft of the fuel filler cap. The extra length is apparent in this pic. Missing from the kit is the small D shaped light which is there to illuminate the tip of the refuelling probe at night. I used a steel scribing template and a pin to deeply engrave its shape. Using a micro chisel, I then removed the inside of the engraving to leave the new hole, ready for a light and some clear sheet. It is possibly a bit too big, but once I have the clear part in place, I will make a smaller mask for it before painting.
  11. What if it wasn’t an issue of quality control, but a conspiracy amongst some manufacturers to deliberately send kits out with issues so that modellers had to fix things themselves, thereby raising the overall skill level of the modelling community?
  12. Hi themongoose, I sanded down the resin until light shone through it and also thinned the inside of the wing surface down as well. Now that I have the OV-10 finished, I am able to move on with the F-100. I painted the equipment under the windshield, in preparation for installing the clear part. I was going to use the nice resin refuelling probe by Quickboost, but it hangs out too far for me to trust it not to be broken. I cut off the tip and the flange of the resin parts and made them fit some brass tube of appropriate diameter. To save the tube from kinking too much when it was bent, I inserted brass rod inside it. there is a small kink that I will fill and sand later. I glued some brass tube into the refueling point that the new probe fits into. I squeezed it slightly into an oblong shape so that it holds firmly onto the probe. Here is the new probe fitted. I can remove it for transport and now have much greater confidence if someones camera strap catches on it at a show.
  13. I tend to agree with Mark James. I have completed one HpH kit, being the L-39 and whilst it is one of my best finished kits, the effort required to get there was fairly extreme and the kit fought me every single part. I have a reasonably complete 1/48 Concorde that has sat unfinished for a few years now as the fit of the parts was so bad that I have had to rethink the entire kit just so that it looks like a Concorde. If I had my time again I would never have purchased it. A huge waste of money. Whilst they produce some excellent subjects with great detail, I firmly believe that they do not spend enough time assembling the kit themselves to see how everything fits and what the modeller will have to go through to build their kits. It’s like they leave the test build up to the modeller.
  14. Thanks guys. just got this one over the line in time! As usual, better pics later.
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