Greg W

I think Peter would be happy to do a set if we show the interest. He already has some jet specific details in his lineup.

This seems like the kind of gap in the aftermarket realm that Airscale likes to fill. Maybe, if enough of us show interest, such a set may reappear. Definitely needed.

Love this build! Old school, well done and a great aircraft. Maybe you know this already but just in case, here's a plastic filler (Bondo) tip from a former auto body guy. Keep the maximum thickness of filler to 1/8" thick. It tends to crack over time if applied in heavier amounts. Following!

Yup, Awesome!

Wow Mark, fantastic job! I enjoy seeing the model before and after paint. The last pics of the model assembled before paint are very Verlinden esque, with all of the lovely plastic and resin details on display.

From the LSP Tips and Techniques section of the forum: How to make ejection seat handles https://www.largescaleplanes.com/articles/article.php?aid=2639

Hi Chris Here are a couple of YouTube videos you might like if you haven't seen them:

Fantastic job Max! Heading over to explore the conversion. I'm glad you took the time to showcase the engine build. Very well done and a real pleasure to follow along with.

Just.... Awesome! Beautiful work, so nice to spend time checking out each post. I had a great time touring the U-505, absolutely fascinating to see in person. This is a similar experience that one can have at home! Impressive.

I just received the new intake ramp/wheel well from Chad, of Flying S Models. He specially designed and printed the part to work with the asymmetrical intakes in my prototype kit. Thank you! I aligned these two parts, with a large piece of square Evergreen tube. This helped me determine where to cut away material from the bell housing, so they could be assembled. Sheet styrene was super glued to the ramp, in order to close a large gap at the top of the new part. Below, the first test fit of the new 3D printed parts, with the cockpit. There is a lot more work to be done, in order to make the gaps go away. Miliput is the material of choice but I am not confident that I can smooth out the putty on the interior of the intakes (big, deep gaps), because of the open vent doors protruding inward. Might just go for the FOD cover solution.

Here's one I would like to see as a 1/32 kit: Focke-Wulf Fw190C V18 'Känguruh'

I removed the bulk of the resin with X-Zacto router blades. Either flat or round would work for this application. I use round the most. Very good for removing molded on detail from the interior of a cockpit without making a cloud of dust. Think Dremel.

Thank you for the reply John. Since I posted my question, I found this from an old copy of the Model Master, Modeler's Technical Guide (1998): I am going to see if I can figure out, if there are currently available clears, that are composed of acrylic urethane enamel as well. Thinking about it, I wonder if Mission Models clear coats are in the same chemical family? And regarding your model, absolutely gorgeous! I also think that another round of salt fading might be to much but of course, how it is applied would be the determining factor. Awesome work here, nice to see! Greg

Matt, check out the link below. The tool you see in my post, is a modified profile scraper made by a Japanese company. https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/99342-alec-profile-scraper-hack-literally/

Ok, both intakes have been trimmed and the test fit is showing that we are almost home free. And now... the comparison between option #1 and option #2.