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daveculp

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About daveculp

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    LSP Junkie

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Las Vegas, NV
  • Interests
    Large scale aircraft modeling. 3D printing. Post WW2 military aircraft.

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  1. That's a good idea. I really wasn't expecting that much pressure inside the mold. I bought some more clamps, so I used three clamps on the next pour and had very little leakage. One thing I would add to the mold design now is a few slots on the edges so I can insert a screwdriver to help pry the halves apart. Once the molds are separated the piece is still stuck in one of the mold halves. Getting it out is not easy. I've had to use a screwdriver to pry it out, which doesn't do the piece nor the mold any good. If I switched to lighter foam there might not be a way to get it o
  2. Got the second half of the tank de-molded. Total length of the tank will be about 52 cm. It looks huge, but the 150 gallon tank is 48 cm long, so this one is not much longer, but bigger around and less pointy. Weight-wise we are at 243 grams already. Sorry for the dark photo - the dining room is lit for romantic dinners, not airplane parts.
  3. Yes, this is a possibility. It would complicate the de-molding process a bit, and there is the issue of keeping it centered even with the expanding foam pushing on it. Still, it's probably better than using a hole saw to drill out the center. I could use lighter foam, but this is my first experience with pourable foam, and I was worried about breaking the piece during de-molding. I had to fight with the piece to de-mold it, so I'm glad it was strong.
  4. Just about done with the nose gear, which includes the doors and mounting bits. The idea is that to statically display the flyable airplane you first retract the landing gear, then you plug in the 3 scale gear as complete units. To fly again you remove the scale gear, lower the original gear, and off you go. That's the theory anyway. I am a bit worried about the stability of the airplane sitting on three gear units that are not firmly affixed to the airplane. The nose gear won't have to carry much weight, so it will be fine structurally. The main gear might be a problem in thi
  5. Exterior paint nearly complete. Just some touchups and the removable cockpit, then first gloss clear coat, then decals, second gloss clear coat, satin top coat. We took IFR training very seriously at Sembach!
  6. Struggling a bit with the Euro One colors. The colors I settled on after lots of research were: Vallejo 71.124 USAF GREEN, Vallejo 71.056 PANZER Dk. GREY, and Mission Models MMP-066 US MEDIUM GREEN. These are supposedly the correct FS colors. One thing I learned is that when sprayed on top of light gray primer the greens, and especially the MMP-066 green, will need multiple coats. The other thing I learned is that the Panzer Dk. Grey is just too dark. Here are photos of the Panzer Dk. Grey compared with Vallejo 71.055 Black Grey. The "Black Grey" is actually lighter than the Panzer Dk.
  7. Filling holes and seams in the OV-10. I'm trying some spray insulation to fill in the holes. These holes contain the screws that attach the main components together. The spray insulation will make the operation reversible in case I want to disassemble the airplane later. In an effort to keep the weight down I'm going to use primer (Rustoleum 2X) on the underside of the airplane and Primer-Filler on the upper side. I'll see if I can get rid of the alligator skin on the visible top-side surfaces. The bomb rack and practice bombs have taken me a l
  8. Filling in unwanted seams with Vallejo putty and sanding off injection marks. I removed the servo arms from the servos and made new servo covers that cover up the whole servo well. The control horns were removed with the help of some Bob Smith Un-Cure, then a new covers were installed. All covers made from 1mm styrene sheet. I can get this wing looking pretty good, but there is still an "alligator skin" texture to deal with. I'd rather not slather on thick coats of primer or sandable latex, but it may come to that - that would make the airplane a non-flyer.
  9. Rather than create new rocket pods I first tried sprucing up the kit parts. One good thing about this is that the part remains flyable. These kit pods are made of foam and weigh next to nothing. Here it is with some Vallejo filler, Vallejo "Interior Green" 71.010, Vallejo Model Color "Natural Steel" 70.864 and "Flat Blue" 70.962. I'll be making some sway braces for it as well. Doing research on placards.
  10. After installing the forward ALR-46 RHAW antennas I realized their position is not quite right. They should be lower, lined up with the formation light, and they should be moved forward about 3mm. I'm not going to move these, but for future reference - the kit position for this antenna is 1.5mm too high and 3mm too far aft. These are 3D printed versions of the antennas. The kit versions have a flat antenna - maybe that's a newer type antenna?
  11. This project started when an old squadron mate from my OV-10 days (40 yrs ago!) told me he was into the RC hobby in a big way, specifically electric powered "foamies". He had just gotten the Motion RC OV-10 with a 55 inch wing span (scale = 1/8.7). It looks very accurate in dimensions, and even though it's made to fly it will look great sitting on a table. His idea is that we could dress it up to look even more like the real thing. Some additions could be permanent and some could be removable for flying. The model is so big that some parts, like the 230 gallon fuel tank, wi
  12. Sounds good. Is there a way to move it over intact, or do I have to start over?
  13. I don't have the space, actually. Good thing we hardly ever use the dining room table.
  14. I've been working on adapting the 3D printed additions for my 1/32 scale OV-10 projects to a new project - a 1/8.7 scale RC OV-10A made by Motion RC. Here's a photo of the 1/32 scale rack/bombs and the 1/8.7 scale versions. I haven't actually received my RC model yet, so test-fitting and attachment work will follow. The RC model has a 55 inch wing span. In this photo the 1/32 scale bits were all printed on my DLP printer. For the huge scale version I printed the rack on an FDM printer and the bombs on a DLP printer. (NOTE: the bombs didn't quite come out right due to support
  15. So, this is second time I've had trouble closing up the nose of the fuselage, and I suspect that part F22 is causing the problem: The part doesn't fit well, there are no alignment marks, and the drawing is not clear enough. I recommend a lot of test fitting here. Maybe I'll have this part figured out when I make my third OV-10A.
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