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About daveculp

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    Las Vegas, NV
  • Interests
    Large scale aircraft modeling. 3D printing. Post WW2 military aircraft.

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  1. Thanks, Rich. That AOA set looks like the way to go. In the event anyone wants to try the print-your-own method, I found that my word processor only prints fonts as small as 6 pts, so that won't do. I got a good print by creating the text in Gimp (I'm a linux geek, so Gimp is the go-to app for graphics). Gimp allowed me to print at 2 pt, which is exactly the right size. I may end up printing the propeller stencils anyway since I already have the paper, and I have other things I want to print so might as well fill up the page
  2. Probably the best collection of F-105 photos is located at a Yahoo group called "F-105 Thunderchief". I haven't logged in in years, so I'm now trying to establish a new account. Anyway, if there is a photo of that paint scheme (and I think there is) it'll be at this Yahoo group.
  3. Still working :) I think this may have been covered in another build thread, but the OV-10A didn't have the extra panels on the booms that the OV-10D had. These panels in the KH kit are left-overs from the OV-10D kit. Unfortunately this means some filling, sanding, re-scribing and riveting for us. Also, while painting the propellers I noticed there are no black stencil decals for the propellers. KH assumed the propellers would be painted black or green, so the provided decals have a white font. The solution will be be either a) steal some decals from another 1/32 2-engined kit, or b) print my own. I have some laser decal paper, so I'll try to print my own.
  4. You just turned me into a helicopter fan. Can't wait to build one now. What was the reference for the tie-down straps? Memory or photos? They are awesome.
  5. It's a real beauty! Did you scratch build the tarmac?
  6. I've seen modelers using black primer, but I didn't know the real thing has black primer: Here's the link to the article: https://strategypage.com/military_photos/military_photos_20190713153130.aspx
  7. While I'm waiting to solve my rookie airbrushing issues with the help of the Red Flag Scale Modelers club: I bought a set of brass landing gear struts, and I'm glad I did. They look great, are very solid, and fit well. After priming and painting them I realized there was some sprue that needs removing. The more obvious sprue is attached to the strut attachment pins, so a simple dry fit would have shown me that :) A less obvious sprue is at the very bottom of the main gear struts. The strut on the left in the photo has had the sprue removed and is re-primed. As for the wheels/tires, the mains look OK but the nose tire won't do. The OV-10 nose tire is a very distinctive feature, and I can't use the kit tire. Fortunately AMS Resin comes to the rescue (thanks, Harold!).
  8. I like the Tiger, but only the long nose version. The short nose version looks kinda goofy.
  9. Day two, airbrush compressor is missing a part, so more cutting and sanding today instead. You may notice in photos of parked USAF OV-10's that the right spoilers are up. The control surfaces were too high to reach with a gust lock, so the gust lock is actually a red fabric strap that was placed around the stick grip and then hooked under the right canopy rail. This pulled the stick to the right and also back. In this condition you have the left aileron down a bit, the right aileron up a bit, the right spoilers up, and the elevator up a bit. Of course the rear cockpit stick mimics the front stick. I don't know if other Bronco users had the same gust lock system. One other thing to keep in mind is that lower part of the stick only moved fore-aft, whereas the upper part rotated left-right.
  10. Thanks, Barry. Holler if you see anything missing/wrong. I know what you mean about the camera. Taking pictures was such a chore back then, and expensive to boot. I probably have 4 or 5 photos total of my eight years in the AF.
  11. While working on the design of the cockpit parts of the Pave Nail system I decided I'd have to build the cockpit first, then design the parts to fit. That means making the whole model. So, here's a WIP thread on making a USAF OV-10A Pave Nail out of the Kitty Hawk OV-10A/C. I've been lurking here long enough to know that my modeling skills pale in comparison to what I've seen, but I figure it's important to at least communicate the reasoning behind my decisions for this model. So here goes: NOTE: This is for the USAF OV-10A with the Pave Nail mod. Other OV-10's will be different. I wanted to paint the insides of the fuselage halves first, then realized there was a problem. I hadn't even started and I already had a problem! In order to build it with the cargo door open I need to get the cargo bay right, and the cargo bay is painted in interior green. The cockpit walls and floor are painted a light-to-medium gray. The kit comes with a bulkhead between the cargo bay and the cockpit, however the USAF Bronco didn't have a bulkhead (did any of them, really?). So, where to switch colors? Well, I'll find a suitable location in time, but for now my attention is on the rest of the cargo bay and bay-cockpit transition. The only thing that's supposed to be behind the rear seat is a radio rack (which I'll have to scratch build). In other words, the radio rack is underneath the circuit breaker panels. There is no bulkhead to speak of, but the cockpit consoles do need a rear side, so I cut the bulkhead down for this purpose. The cargo bay floor should be plywood with two silver metal "slide strips" running in the fore-aft direction. I sanded off the rivets on the kit's floor in preparation for the faux-plywood paint job (that should be fun!). Next bit is the cargo door. The door should have no interior features except for the gust lock device installed at the apex (which I'll have to scratch build). This means sanding off the brackets which were meant to hold the kit's radio rack. This Bronco doesn't have a radio rack in the cargo door. Also the alignment pins should be cut off, and the injection divots need to be filled in. All this cutting and filling is unfortunately removing much of the door's inside "fiberglass" surface texture, which is a shame because it is beautifully done by KH. So subtle! Also, the exterior access door on the left half of the cargo door is sanded off. The USAF OV-10A didn't have this. The kit has a fairly thick strengthening strip running along the seam on the exterior. On this OV-10 that strip should be barely visible, or invisible. You can only see it on the OV-10A when the light hits it just right.
  12. Beauty! I just got one on sale today at Hobby Lobby. Now I'm excited about building it!
  13. Wow, that's a big print for a DLP printer! Impressive.
  14. I only have one product ready for sale now - that's the ALR-46 RWR set. (Edit : online store is down while I rebuild it) That's $9 plus $4 shipping. If I had a decent photo or diagram of the Pave Nail (Pave Spot?) scope/controller I would definitely make one. I have the same problem the kit manufacturers have in that you put as much research in as you can gather, then after you make the kit you find out somethings wrong or missing. As for the ALR-46 the cockpit display/control panel, I probably never would have made it by memory alone (37 years since I last saw one) so I held off until I finally found a photo it Dave
  15. Working on a prototype now. Not many photos available - I think you have them all I've got a pylon length (at 1/32 scale) of 33.2 mm. The total length of the pod is 36.4 mm. Any comments on the shape and size? The measurements I used came from the photos, so it's a pretty rough estimate. This is the first print, so some tweaks are needed. I also have to print the clear part yet. It's designed to rotate freely around the vertical axis, but the nose will have to be glued in a permanent position. -- Dave
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