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About daveculp

  • Rank
    LSP Junkie

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Las Vegas, NV
  • Interests
    Large scale aircraft modeling. 3D printing. Post WW2 military aircraft.

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  1. Finishing up some LAU-68 rocket launchers. I printed up some inert warheads (painted blue), and some WP warheads (green/yellow/green). The WP warheads are printed in one piece, and I didn't think about how I was going to paint them when I designed them. I tried dipping them in yellow to get one edge of the yellow stripe, with the intent to dip them again in dark green, leaving a yellow band. I found that didn't do, so I'm going to work on plan B, in the mean time putting inert warheads in all the rocket launchers . Plan B is to print the WP warheads individually so I can
  2. EDIT, one year later: I've recently learned that the squat switch (a.k.a air-ground switch or safety switch) is on the left main gear only. Every model I've seen of the OV-10 has squat switches on both main gear struts. The right one needs to be cut off - which is a bit of a challenge when using brass replacement struts.
  3. After completing both main gear I decided the angles on the gear were wrong, so I moved things around around a bit in CAD and am reprinting the gear. Here's a photo of the new left main gear fresh off the printer compared with the previous version. The print takes about 12 hours or so. The sanding/bondo/primer/paint work takes about four more hours per gear.
  4. Nice photos! Yeah, that manufacturer's model looks sweet. #2 prop looks like it turns the wrong way
  5. Perfect! Those will make for some nice decals. I'll just change it to LAU-68 and lower the weights a bit.
  6. Thanks REJ! I'll take you up on the offer. One thing I found out while working on this 1/9 scale airplane is that some placards that would normally be unreadable small black/silver squares are now actually big enough to be readable! I could make up some words for them, like the Gettysburg Address or something, but maybe I should stick to the actual text. In particular I'm looking at the placards on the main landing gear struts and the placards on the LAU-68 rocket launchers. I can make my own decals, but I just need to know what text to write on them. I haven't even started o
  7. It's a hybrid at first: flyable RC airplane with "dress up" parts for static display. Once I'm done with that project I'll move into phase two, which is a fully static model. The main difference between the two builds is the cockpit area. A decent static display cockpit will require removing the RC nose gear completely. So the phase one build will have the original cockpit. The phase two build gets a whole new cockpit. I hope that makes sense
  8. Still working in the main landing gear. Before the final painting steps I printed up some small detail pieces on the resin printer - 1. "Squat switch" (air-ground switch) 2) The part where the RBF flag goes 3) Tie down ring 4) Brakes (not shown here) While printing the squat switch I noticed that the actual airplane only has a switch on the left main strut. Every model I've seen (including the last one I made) has a switch on both main struts. Ooops! I used the brass gear on my last 1/32 OV-10A build, and removing the switch from the right strut
  9. 230 gallon tank is finished and installed with a magnet. The nose gear unit is "popped in" to the existing opening. Here's a photo of the airplane sitting on its own three feet. I'm amazed that no extra weight is needed in the nose! So far each main gear unit will consist of four parts: 1) The well/doors 2) The main struts and wheels/tires 3) The forward actuator and door 4) The well cover (right side has blade antenna also) The well/doors bit fits into the existing well. It "pops in" to the existing we
  10. Here's the 230 gallon tank with saddle. Total weight so far is 275 grams without the magnet. While I'm trying to solve bed adhesion issues with my FDM printer I printed the saddle on my DLP printer. The piece won't be as strong as the FDM piece would be, but it's good enough for static display.
  11. That's a good idea. I really wasn't expecting that much pressure inside the mold. I bought some more clamps, so I used three clamps on the next pour and had very little leakage. One thing I would add to the mold design now is a few slots on the edges so I can insert a screwdriver to help pry the halves apart. Once the molds are separated the piece is still stuck in one of the mold halves. Getting it out is not easy. I've had to use a screwdriver to pry it out, which doesn't do the piece nor the mold any good. If I switched to lighter foam there might not be a way to get it o
  12. Got the second half of the tank de-molded. Total length of the tank will be about 52 cm. It looks huge, but the 150 gallon tank is 48 cm long, so this one is not much longer, but bigger around and less pointy. Weight-wise we are at 243 grams already. Sorry for the dark photo - the dining room is lit for romantic dinners, not airplane parts.
  13. Yes, this is a possibility. It would complicate the de-molding process a bit, and there is the issue of keeping it centered even with the expanding foam pushing on it. Still, it's probably better than using a hole saw to drill out the center. I could use lighter foam, but this is my first experience with pourable foam, and I was worried about breaking the piece during de-molding. I had to fight with the piece to de-mold it, so I'm glad it was strong.
  14. Just about done with the nose gear, which includes the doors and mounting bits. The idea is that to statically display the flyable airplane you first retract the landing gear, then you plug in the 3 scale gear as complete units. To fly again you remove the scale gear, lower the original gear, and off you go. That's the theory anyway. I am a bit worried about the stability of the airplane sitting on three gear units that are not firmly affixed to the airplane. The nose gear won't have to carry much weight, so it will be fine structurally. The main gear might be a problem in thi
  15. Exterior paint nearly complete. Just some touchups and the removable cockpit, then first gloss clear coat, then decals, second gloss clear coat, satin top coat. We took IFR training very seriously at Sembach!
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