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daveculp

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About daveculp

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    LSP Junkie

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Las Vegas, NV
  • Interests
    Large scale aircraft modeling. 3D printing. Post WW2 military aircraft.

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  1. Looks terrific! A reminder - they were probably flying with some right rudder. (I don't think that was depicted in the painting.) Also, I saw the painting shows an ADF "football" antenna installed. I don't know if it's correct or not, but if you need one I just printed up a batch and would be happy to mail one to you.
  2. Yes, please take a short break and continue with this amazing project! I'm hooked on it!
  3. Finishing up the fuselage joint filling. The main fuselage was a little out of round (not surprising I suppose given how big it is), so that area takes some extra work. Next step is scribing across the top and bottom of the fuselage. The test prints for the cockpit glass makes for a good mask.
  4. Chino? That's an awesome museum. I could spend days there, especially in the back lot "junkyard".
  5. That's a great looking Hun. Incredible work!
  6. It's possible, but the angles have to be exactly right for it to fit. Other options are: silicone mold, or wait for Click2detail to make the part. I'll wait until the model is built to make the decision, by then Click2detail might have the part done.
  7. Latest attempts to print the clear part have failed. Originally I wanted to wait on the clear part before closing up the cockpit, just in case I needed to install a clear part from the inside of the cockpit, but now I'm going to continue with the build and assume the clear part saga will be solved in the future. So, the build progresses. Filling, sanding and scribing.
  8. I've built a simple cockpit using the kit seats and pilots. The rest is scratch built. Once assembled the only thing you can see from the outside is the pilot's faces and the instrument panel shroud. Some touch-up painting next, then the cockpit will be ready to be glued in forever. The clear part has been an adventure. I ordered the part from Shapeways and tried to polish it in hopes that it could be made transparent. Nope. The designer Click2Detail says they expect to print their own truly transparent part in the near future - and that will be the ultimate solution. In the mean time I heard about some good transparent resin from iFun, so I bought a bottle to try to print my own clear part. First I'm printing the part in my usual gray resin in order to get the dimensions just right. Here's a photo of the test fit of iteration #3. One or two more iterations with the grey resin and I should be ready for the clear print. Almost all of the 3D printed surface irregularities on the fuselage have now been removed via many cycles of priming and sanding. It's been a long process, especially after my first primer coat reacted with the resin and wouldn't dry! I spent a week scraping/rubbing/sanding the bad primer coat off, then sprayed a couple base coats of Vallejo primer, then Mr. Surfacer for all subsequent coats.
  9. I'm waiting for a primer coat to dry, so far about 8 days, and it's still tacky. I used "Rust-oleum Professional Primer", which is made for enamel top coat. In order to prevent this from happening again I need to figure out where I went wrong. The object I sprayed is made of resin. Here are some possibilities: 1) I didn't shake the can enough 2) I applied too thick of a coat 3) The part had a oil film, or something, on it Can you think of any more possibilities? Which mistake is most likely? Thanks, Dave
  10. I use the Elegoo Mars. I've been very happy with it so far. I've tried a few different resins, but I've had the most success with Elegoo's standard grey resin.
  11. The windows are an interesting problem. The NB-36H had thick leaded glass windows, up to a foot thick depending on which documents you read. There are two ways to build this that I know of. One is to buy the 3D printed windows from Shapeways as a single part, however this part is not transparent. Apparently you use the part to make a silicone mold and pour your own transparent resin. The other way is to scratch build. I might end up trying both and choosing the best result, but for now I'm working on the scratch built method using 1/8 inch plexiglass. Gluing the parts in place will be another problem since the cockpit is a tight space and quite a reach from the back end - sort of like building a ship in a bottle. Note here the roughness of the nose part. The 3D printing surface artifacts really show up once you apply the first primer coat.
  12. The cockpit interior will hardly be seen, but I'll scratch build a replacement cockpit and add the original pilot seats and pilots. During the reactor loading process the crew is already buttoned up inside the cockpit and ready to go. Supports are added here for the cockpit floor.
  13. The bottom of the new nose. The original nose wheel well part is used after the edges are sanded down to fit the new fuselage shape. Lots of CA glue used here since the part is only attached at the bottom edges. The doors behind the wheel well will be closed, so this hole needs filling.
  14. This is the latest version of the heat exchanger vents. At first I wanted to build the left and right vents as separate parts to simplify the fitting process, but then decided to go ahead and make them joined at the heat exchanger box. This complicates the test fit process - once the fuselage halves are joined this part is no longer accessible. I have to super-glue the part to one side first, then join the fuselage halves and hope the other side fits. I left the box open for ease of painting. The inside of the box will be painted black, and the vent outlets will have a green chromate color - fading to black. I'll then seal the bottom of the box with card stock painted black.
  15. The scoops are printed by Shapeways - excellent fit! In fact the fit is so good that I can glue them on after the fuselage is completed. In this photo they have their first coat of primer. It will take at least a couple primer coats with liberal sanding in between to remove the 3D printing surface artifacts. The part at far left is the bulkhead between the two bomb bays. I printed this as a partial bulkhead since no one will ever look up into the bomb bays (the model will be attached to the diorama base). The curved tabs are printed alignment tabs for the fuselage. For some reason the fuselage halves are missing some alignment pins, so these tabs will help when gluing the fuselage together. At top is an earlier attempt at building the exhaust vents for the heat exchanger system. In the NB-36H the aft crew compartment was re-purposed as the reactor heat exchanger. Cooling air came in through the scoops (mentioned above), through the heat exhanger, then out the exhaust vents. The vent outlets are what used to be observation domes for use by the gunners. The domes were removed making the vents outlets always open. Landing gear is OOB. They look solid enough, and the kit will not be handled once it's in the diorama.
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