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  1. Cheers everyone! Kevin was kind enough to separate the Phantom posts from the Tomcat thread. As I am planning to finish this one, it makes more sense to open a separate thread for it. I wasn't in the mood to work on the Tomcat landing gear, so I decided to resurrect another project from the Shelf of Doom - a QF-4S. Painting is fun! Cutting Edge conversion kit, cockpit converted to QF-4S standard. As there are no decals, all markings are painted...
    38 points
  2. This is a cool looking airplane, although it never made production or even a prototype was ever built, i fell in love because is something new and different , this is the first model produced by a new manufacturer, DAS WERK , and the wood texture decals were made exclusively for it by uschi van der rosten. When you compared to a P-51D, this was i really small airplane as you can see in the last picture. i call it the ancestor or the grandpa of the A-10 by the position of the pulse jet engines and the twin rudder Jorge
    34 points
  3. smoke417

    Tamiya - F4u1a

    Finally got this one finished and also tried my hand at building a base. AK Real Colours Eagle Cals Barracuda Wheels Barracuda Cockpit stencils Ultracast Pappy Boyington AK Terrains Palm Tree - from Ebay seller in Thailand It's a great kit. I have another in the pile for a later date. Thanks for looking. Simon
    34 points
  4. Gentlemen, as usual, your kind comments make my day and keep me motivated - thanks a lot! Chuck, Scooby actually survived the drone program and resides in a museum; sadly, it has lost its last identity as it was repainted in VMFA-333 colours. At least the airframe did survive... This is how it looks now: Let's get back to the model itself. The next step was to mask and paint Scooby's signature sharkmouth. Again, I used homemade masks cut on my Silhouette Portrait. The painting sequence is not ideal as painting white first caused white flashing through at
    33 points
  5. This time a plane with propellers. The model, as usual, is made straight from the box. B-24D Liberator from Hobby Boss in 1:32 scale, very weak model. And the idea of making plastic landing gear legs is an absolute mistake!!!. It doesn't make sense to write any more because I have nothing good to write about this kit.
    32 points
  6. David Mooney

    1/32 Tamiya F-16CJ

    Hello everyone, I hope you all are keeping safe. I've just completed the 1/32 Tamiya F16CJ and thought I'd share a few pictures of it, i swapped the static dischargers for the superb Master set (AM-32-084) as the kit parts looked a bit too chunky, MasterCasters Soft FOD inserts, other than that...its out of the kit box. All comments welcome....stay safe folks!
    31 points
  7. Hello, everyone. This is my completed vignette that I’m calling, “The Avengers of Guadalcanal.” During the long, grueling campaign for the Solomon Islands, Allied and Japanese forces threw themselves at each other for months. Pitched night naval battles, furious aerial melees, and bitter ground combat were the brutal hallmarks of what I feel was truly the turning point in the Pacific War. By November 1942, American forces were desperately holding on to Henderson Field on Guadalcanal in an effort to keep the Cactus Air Force flying. One of the many units fed into the grinder w
    31 points
  8. I can't resist to keep you updated... International Orange sure is a flashy colour!
    29 points
  9. More pics: Gotta touch up the gun barrels Cockpit with mood lighting on! Kit detail in the wheel wells is pretty nice. I hid the battery pack for the lights here in the bomb bay so I can access the switch and can change batteries when needed. I do need to find some black tape though! Cheers, Mark
    29 points
  10. Dear LSP team. I am happy to present the latest finished model. Its the 1/32 Hawk Mk.1 of the Finnish Air Force. Kit: Revell Scale:1/32 Aftermarket: CMK Instrument panels, Quickboost Seats, Avalon Decals Paints: Ammo, Vallejo, Future Weathering: Flory Models Washes, Ammo Oilbrushers Base made by my friend. The kit has its issues however does fall together fairly well. Its Revell and its simplified in some areas but I believe the kit does capture the shapes of the real aircraft well. For those who wish to go to town on superdetailing this kit provides a good base. I us
    28 points
  11. Hi guys, The Lancaster is finished - sort of - more on that later. So, in the quest to reduce the large pile of kit boxes in my stash, I decided to open the largest of the boxes and out popped a Lancaster! Built mostly from the box except for the Eduard Zoom instrument panel and some LED lights from Amazon. I figured that though I wasn't going to do any super-detailing in the interior, a little mood lighting would help show off what is there. The kit mostly fell together, good engineering from HKM except for a weird fit issue sliding the inner nacelles into the wing. In retrospect
    28 points
  12. Here's the latest model off the bench - Italeri's 1/32nd F-35A Lightning II. This was built out of the box, with the exception of Eduard's seat belt and cockpit set. The kit itself goes together really well, with the only filler being needed on the fuselage to wing join which wasn't the best. There's lots of nicely moulded detail in the landing gear and weapons bays, which with some careful painting comes up well. The most time consuming part of the build was the painting process - it took hours, and hours, and hours, and hours... you get the idea... of masking the RAM
    28 points
  13. October 1/20 Well, my left hand surgery recovery has been much better than expected, mostly because I am very right handed and my left hand and arm are almost useless, other than to hold things. I am not looking forward to when my right hand is fixed, because simple daily tasks- and modeling- will be a real challenge, so I scramble to do as much as possible before that happens! With my right hand free, below is my new progress, which I consider to be the biggest challenge of this build and kit. I understand that this kit has wing dihedral issues and two of the biggest flaws at m
    28 points
  14. airscale

    1/18 Hawker Fury

    mojo noun informal a quality that makes you successful and full of energy: · He's definitely lost his mojo. · He needs to get his mojo working if he's going to finish that model Well, I lost mine over the last few months in a big way. For many reasons I just lost interest in my Fw190 and so it has been shelved for now. It's one of those inexplicable things, those that remember the 1/24 Tigercat maybe know I have form in this area .. Instead, I have found a new source of mojo which
    27 points
  15. Thanks all for the kind words! I need to sort out the un-sprung landing gear as this will be an inflight display. It’s just a matter of extending the oleo strut AND the section of the gear leg forward of the wheel attach point. the paint and construction sequence is not like an airplane- more like armor! more paint on rivets- the whole fuselage was dry brushed with a lighter shade of Gunship Grey- the rivets are very robust, and didn’t flinch at all under the abuse. couldn't be happier with the Archer rivets! cheers Pete
    27 points
  16. So here we go with another thread... thanks Kevin for separating the QF-4S posts from the Tomcat thread! Petr, Fred is right, it's the Cutting Edge conversion set. I have to admit I don't even remember when I started this project... Thanks a lot, Anthony! I think I already mentioned it in your thread, your huge Spey Phantom conversion inspired me to get mine back onto the bench. I wish my model was half as neat as yours which it certainly isn't... But I am not totally unhappy with it. I was rather busy yesterday evening. I really love painting such heavil
    27 points
  17. Hey Folks. This is the Kitty Hawk F-5E. Ok it is not the best kit and I recommend you to have great research before you begin. Dont do like me and build one of the examples in the box.. You will see that Kitty Hawk failed badly. I didnt have the time to correct all the errors for my interpretation of a IRIAF F-5. So " see is what you get". The most obvious are the wrong canopy, the fins on the exhaust and the sharkfin on the spine. But otherwise the build went just fine. I have used: Gunze Paints Eduard Photoetch exterior and interior. Eduard
    26 points
  18. Well title says it all. 6-10 is depicted at a later time (due to the pictues I have) as can be seen on the tail. Eduard kit plus Alleycat conversion, I really cannot say enough good about these Alleycat conversions - wow, they are good. Actually easier to replace the entire nose with a huge (and real nice) piece of resin that actually building the Eduard kits nose... HGW belts and Aires (or was it quickboost?) wheels were the only addition. All marking painted on. Scanned the decal sheet and made masks. Hope you enjoy
    25 points
  19. Couldn’t resist a few shots of it almost complete definitely feels like a Big Jug now! have given it a Matt coat top and sides only at this stage weathering next, including oils probably
    25 points
  20. How about gloss black!? As I have mentioned too many times, I like to use Tamiya Gloss Black Lacquer (TS-14) as a base whenever I can, for two main reasons: 1) It reveals every single tiny flaw, so I can fix them early 2) It provides a primer coat for Alclad paints to stick to This paint also attracts dust like crazy, both before and after painting due to the glossy finish and static electricity it creates, especially in our dry climate during winter. A modeling friend of mine said that the Car Guys who paint glossy finishes al
    25 points
  21. One thing I found with the Hobby Boss kit out of the box is the cowlings and front of the engine nacelles are slightly "skewed" towards the wing tips(see the first photo) I found if you trim the locating tabs on the back of the nacelle fronts(second photos) you can get everything back up and vertical. The next photos show the kit's nacelle front, the tabs on the back of the part can be trimmed or removed to let it be rotated to get the cowling and engine oriented beck to vertical. I have started making the modifications on the cowlings a
    25 points
  22. Another Zero finished. model Tamiya Aires cockpit & wheel bay wheels CMK HGW seta belts & wet transfers All colours MRP test IJN set
    24 points
  23. new company to me from Hungary they have opening weekend with Buy 1 Get 1 free offer 3D instrument panels https://www.rfstudio.hu/# https://www.facebook.com/pg/Red-Fox-Studio-112301346967714/posts/?ref=page_internal F-117 F/A-18E Mirage III E/RD/O A-10 P-38 Bf-109G Fw-190A-8 Me-262 P-51
    23 points
  24. mpk

    Health

    Hi guys. I received a PM asking of me. Here is my situation. Where have I been? Over the past 12 months I have been trying to save my right foot from amputation. Last week it seemed I may lose my leg at the knee. Happily I got through it to this week. The fight continues but I remain confident. I am dealing with 2 hospitals. I am under the care of the High risk foot clinic at 1 of them and general care at the other. What began as an infection in a toe has spread further. The reason is numbness in my right foot. I didn't know I had a wou
    23 points
  25. This is 1/32 Eduard (Hasegawa) P-40N Warhawk finished with the markings of 89th FS 80th FG in India during 1944. Paints: Gunze Sangyo acrylics Decals: Nose art (Skull & shark eye) and numbers (61) are made by customhobbydecals.com Happy modelling
    23 points
  26. Hello all, New on the forum, glad to share my latest finished model from Academy with only a few extras (resin cockpit and WB, decals). Being a fan of the Tomcat and beginner with airbrush, this kit was dedicated to train myself about US Navy jet painting before I go ahead with an F-14.. Hope you like it, ready for any comments!
    22 points
  27. Thanks Rainer and Check! Printing such piano hinges would be no problem, the question is just what's easier - scribing this kind of step pattern (hugely annoying for sure!) or cutting out a part of the surface, replacing it with a 3D printed part and to putty and sand in order to obtain an perfectly smooth surface again... I didn't have a lot of time during the weekend but managed to mask and paint the stars'n'bars on top and under the wings. Again, the masks were drawn by myself and cut on my Silhouette Portrait. In order to avoid white pa
    22 points
  28. Though I'm not finished yet, I thought I'd pop in and post an interim update on my progress with the canopy. It's been a ton of work so far, and quite a bit more to go yet! You may recall that I had previously been talking about replacing the clear panels between the frames as a way of fixing the visible step marks from the 3D-printed master. After quite an effort to separate the opening section from the fixed section, I quite quickly changed my mind! There's just no way I would have been able to cut out and replace those panels accurately, and in fact it would have been a complete
    22 points
  29. And start with painting - first 1500 black primer, light shades with deck-tan and white. After - paint some places with original two tone of green camo, sealed with varnish. Some hair sprey covered those areas and start painting the "tank" colors. Some chipping of different zones and places, continue with other shades of those colors. When all was ready - sealed with clear and start with decals-work. Over them I sprayed some smoke to shade again some of the panels and details: Some
    21 points
  30. tomprobert

    Short Sunderland MkII

    Massive congratulations, Ben - my advice is get plenty of modelling in now..! Evening all, I've been making some good progress this week on the big Sunderland. Lots of plastic card and Evergreen strip to the rescue, combined with a fair bit of reference checking and head-scratching, and I now have the basic structures of the bomb room and forward fuselage/flightdeck completed. The bomb room has been kitted out with the basic structure - the doors are actually open on the real aircraft but as I'm not detailing the areas either fore or aft I've used a bit of c
    21 points
  31. Good day friends! I've built this model just for relax and some fun That was OOTB constructing. I just added some belts by scratch and wires and PE gun sights. I used empty ("refueling") markers to paint "snakes" over original camo. All paint are from Gunze. Thank you! Regards, Sergey Budyansky
    21 points
  32. October 16/20 I have found a few more edits you should do (or not do) to this build. With so many versions of Typhoons and Tempests, Special Hobby has many parts that are common to most of them, but the instructions have missed some important items as shown before. After doing the left wingtip light, I was wondering what went into the little hole in the wing next to it? It turns out, nothing!, so this hole should be filled. I’ve found a few pics of Mk II Tempests with a pitot tube here, so this is likely why the wing has it? Steps 31 and 3
    21 points
  33. ... with a bit of emotion, despite his age (class '66). The first step in a group already started is always exciting. My name is Fabio and I live and work in Rome. I spend my free time between flying and modeling. The latter made me land here and I hope you want to welcome me among you. I started this wonderful hobby in 1972, with a 1/72 Airfix Komet, painted with my mother's enamel, a cherry red! Personal and work issues have kept me away from modeling for many years, but now, fortunately, I have resumed our wonderful hobby. Like someone who has been deprived of something for a long
    20 points
  34. October 21/20 Thanks guys. Painting gloss black has been a long journey where I’ve made a lot of mistakes, so here are some tips: 1. Start with a very smooth plastic finish. Primers will help, but I never use them because I don’t like to fill any detail. If you have scratches you want filled in, sand them instead. 2. Wipe the model down with Tamiya lacquer thinner, to remove any oils from your skin. 3. I can’t speak for acrylics, but a good lacquer gloss paint is easier to use than a gloss enamel, because it sprays on thi
    20 points
  35. Thanks Guys! Funny, I was afraid to start painting (as always), but once I start, it's addictive! The first coat of gloss black was mostly to reveal flaws, blemishes, seam remnants, etc. Despite my prior attempts to eliminate same, this model still had plenty of them, so it was back to sanding! That big one on the wing I showed above, but I also had a long seam-line on the top of the fuselage, along with the usual crap and other small boo-boos. After removing all the dust, it was back to the spray booth. All better now.
    20 points
  36. Isn’t it strange how you can lose interest in a model for months, sometimes years, and then suddenly you pick it up and can’t put it back down again..? The big Sunderland is back in the bench, baby!
    20 points
  37. So, I'm back with another small update - one in which I get to basically declare the cockpit done! Here are my token seat belts, built from the previously-shown Model Technologies photo-etch set: I attached them behind the seat with some random spare photo-etch pieces that looked like they might be convincing. I'll probably add a wash to that area, and tidy it up a bit, as it's a bit of a mess after my fumbling attempts to anchor the shoulder straps in place! The photo below shows a loose dry-fit of the fixed canopy section: Looks a
    20 points
  38. Well I decided to take the plunge into the abyss of the Hobby Boss B-26 kit, yes its a bit of a mess, surprisingly thought it all seems to fit together pretty good ??? Yes the fuselage cross section mid town is wrong, I think though most scratch builders can make it look a little bit more "normal" the cowlings are also wrong, but it seems to be mostly in their profile, they don't seem to have enough "arc" in them , back to front, they have too much of a flat angle, I think you could glue a strip of styrene around the front third of the cowling and fill and sand and get the shape correcte
    19 points
  39. discus

    1/32 Mirage 2000N KH

    Hello Here is my KH Mirage 2000N. Although this version of the 2000 is the "Nuke" one, it was also used for conventional bombing. The quad GBU is the latest loadout validated before the A/C was phased out from the forces. It was used in conjunction with a 2000D or a Rafale equipped with the targeting pod (which cannot be fitted on the N Having built the 2000C previously, no big surprises: KH was constant in the errors and poor choices. Typically there is a mad man at KH who decided that the front canopy should be only shown closed... I spent god knows how mu
    19 points
  40. One more quick update. I've been a modeling fiend the last few days, partly because I will be having Carpal Tunnel surgery on my right hand tomorrow. If all goes as well as my left hand surgery exactly a month ago, I should be back in the modeling saddle in about a week. All shiny black things must come to and end. The gloss black helped me correct small flaws, and now it's the primer coat for Alclad Dark Aluminum. This coat is admittedly blotchy, mostly because you will never see most of it again after final paint. It is here for future paint chipping and to lighten the paint
    19 points
  41. October 19/20 With all the major components of this build complete, it’s now time to prep the model for painting. After a lot of bad experiences with leaking masks and tiny parts that don’t fit, I now have a method that reduces the occurrence and stress of these events happening again. Not much that I will show will be new to you and they are old tricks that I have learned from others, but you may find something here that could be helpful on your next project. The first step has been done already. During assembly, I have painted within the front intake and the
    19 points
  42. Mistral

    32nd Special Hobby Yak-3

    Here's a build which has been going for a long time and is now complete - Special Hobby's Yak-3. I really liked this model. Yes, some challenging fit issues but nothing that good old elbow grease cannot sort out. The kit detail is really nice. I added the Yahu instrument panel (which is superb) and some seat belts. Otherwise all OOB :
    19 points
  43. Last week or so have been slow, but I am back on her again now. Trying to finish off the horizontal stabs before the part from Albert turns up so I can complete the heat shield area. Here you can see me adding in all the teeny tiny bolt heads into the rear spar. They are all little pieces of 0.25mm rod (I think, as the 0.5 is much bigger and I have lost the original packaging) inserted into drilled holes. Man this is taking forever! I should have just used Archer rivets on reflection...I dont know why I didnt? One upper left side is done and I am about 1/
    19 points
  44. All right. A large milestone - the R-2800-8 is finished and on static display (my apologies for the crude mounting fixture). A nearly year long adventure: Some lines were installed after the rear crankcase was installed - a large fuel hose from the fuel pump to the carburetor, and some tubing associated with the separator (the ZC yellow cannister on the side of the aft blower case): With exhaust manifolds and the diaphragm: When this piece of
    19 points
  45. Hi all, here are my last finished models. 1/32 Hasgawa kits Aires cockpit HGW seat belts, Wet transfers & rivets Eagle wheels Eagle cals All colours MRP
    18 points
  46. What a nice modelling experience these Hasegawa kits are, the N1K2 is the last of my trio of Japanese subjects and as well as being enjoyable to build I have learned a lot about Japanese WW2 aircraft and learned (or re learned) some modelling techniques. Paints used were mainly Sovereign Colourcoats, the undersides was Xtracolor High Speed Silver and Humbrol was used for the small details. All markings were painted using Montex masks apart from the stencils data plate and kill markings (I'm not that clever !) Seat belts are the amazing but fiddley RB Productions IJN ones. A
    18 points
  47. Hey all, the rivets are all down on the fuselage. finally. you are gonna lose some rivets to shop rash. when I repair those spots which are typically one to three rivets, I mark their location by leaving the decal paper next to the repaired rivet(s) so I know where to come back to and smother with solvaset- Might lose some more as I handle the model adding some parts before paint. I’ll inspect it for lost rivets again before I black prime it- cheers Pete
    18 points
  48. Ok, the first pictures go up. The kit is resin, and has some nice surface detail. According to my information, there are some issues to correct in the following areas: Cockpit: * both PE instrument panels have the correct layout, but the detail of the instrument shapes are wrong - they are circular, but should in reality be square with raised circular rims. * The seats I will be using are early Martin Baker seats. The PE seatbelts are designed toshow a seat as displayed into a museum, not as in an aircraft. So some corrections will be needed there, and I also inten
    18 points
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