Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/26/2018 in all areas

  1. 43 points

    My big scales models

    Hi, after almost 20 years spent on 1/48tth models, I moved to the bigger 1/32nd scale. Here some pics of the models I have completed in the last 5 years. Trumpeter A-4M Skyhawk in 1/32nd Trumpeter AV-8B Harrier II in 1/32nd Trumpeter Harrier GR.5 in 1/32nd Trumpeter Harrier GR.7 in 1/32nd Trumpeter Harrier GR.9A in 1/32nd Trumpeter AV-8B+ Harrier II Plus in 1/32nd Tamiya F-16CJ in 1/32nd Revell Hawk T.1 in 1/32nd Italeri Mirage 5BA in 1/32nd Italeri Nesher in 1/32nd … and now something even bigger… Trumpeter Hurricane IIC in 1/24th Airfix Harrier GR.3 in 1/24th At the moment I’m working on a DayGlo FIAT G.91R-1B in 1/32nd. CIAO! Piero
  2. 36 points
    While I was at Nationals, I saw some nice 1/32 resin display bases from ZM and Squadron, and it got me inspired. I bought one of the PSP bases from Squadron, because it was big enought for my P-38, and I could finish it myself; plus I knew I could never make my own that well for the 22 bucks it cost me to buy it. Not to disparage a company I respect, but frankly, I was not really happy with the detailing or the texture on the ZM bases, especially the carrier deck one. So I picked up a couple sets of the PE US Carrier deck tie down strips from Tom's Model Works, ordered some 3/16" plastic channel from Plastruct, and set about making my own base when I got home. After a lot of trial and error, here are some quick shots with my phone of the final product, with my Hellcat on it as intended. What do you guys think? Tim
  3. 27 points

    Spitfire HF Mk.VI b 1/32 HB

    Here is my last build - the kit from Hobby Boss.I used the HpH cockpit set,canons from RB,exhaust pipes from QB,mainwheels from PCM Spitfire Mk.IX,wingtips from Tamiya Spitfire Mk.VIII a few modification of the cockpit for the Mk.VI version,all markings are sprayed,the stencils are from kit decals.Used colors and varnish - Tamiya,Humbrol and Alclad...
  4. 21 points

    Another Junkers D1

    Great kit
  5. 21 points

    A6M2b, 1:32, Tamiya

    And little "family" foto:
  6. 20 points

    A-4M "The Little Scooter"

    Looked from the top of the old lady..... .......for me the most beautiful shot
  7. 18 points
    Hello friends this is the end of one long build. Here is Arado Ar 196 A3 BG Air Force 2 by Revell at 1/32 scale You can see the WIP here: Arado Ar 196 A3 Build Hope you will like this bird Cheers guys
  8. 18 points

    1/32 Marauder

    The last few days, I've been busy with non-modeling-related things, but I received some usefull stuff: In the meantime, the wings got some panel lines, and the nacelles got mounts for the engines (please ignore the strange color of the printing filament ). Into the mounts, I put some washers as wight. The mounts are highly inaccurate, but will be pretty invisible once the cowlings are put on. Cheers Alex
  9. 17 points
    Then I took some of the two part clear resin I used for water detail and dioramas and slathered it on (and in between) the square wingtip light cavity and the 1/4" stock. I used a tiny bit of clear CA to lock it in place while things dry. Its not 100% accurate, but I think will look good in the end and be a lot closer to the actual shape of an F7F wing: I also glued together the tail hook since eventually I will have to glue in the tail hook cover to the fuselage and fair that part in. The cover doesn't fit well as the opening is off, but at least the tail hook is wire impregnated to hold together better: Once again pushing the engines off I started on another major area of the kit that IMHO needs addressing badly. The MLG. These as advertised by HpH seem strong enough to hold the model up, but as the nose gear was way incorrect on length and shape, the likelihood of the MLG being the correct length to give the model the stance I wanted was slim to none. The MLG couldn't be modified just any-ol-way, since this was going to be a heavy model and the MLG had to be strong. I started off with the main part of the MLG which has the piano wire running through it, and the part that is also responsible for bearing the brunt of the weight of the model. I used some suitably sized brass tubing to emulate the main body of the main strut of the MLG. Since I have a second set of landing gear from HpH (you can see in the second pic a short shot at the bottom of the apposing set of resin gear) I could afford to attempt something I had in mind. Scary I know! I cut the OOB HpH gear right at the point where the oleo strut goes into the main body, severing the internal piano wire as well. I set the lower section where the wheel attached to aside, and used some pliers to pull the piano wire right out of the resin gear section. I then took a drill and a #7 Exacto blade and cut off the 4 end sections of each main strut (two a side) that have the oleo scissor connections and secondary actuator brace connections on them. I used a jewelry file to smooth the interior of the end caps out, and after cutting a piece of brass tube just a skosh longer than there OOB counterparts, and then glued on the resin caps to the brass tube sections: I used some hardened piano wire of my own and embedded a new section of wire into the base of the MLG section where on the F7F the oleo strut attaches to: Then, using one of those "flavor injector" needles you can get for Turkeys here in the states cut the tip off and eventually will cut to length and then will have the interior with wire filled with JB Weld: Once that is done it will of course allow the turkey injector oleo strut to glide up and down in the main body of the MLG and that way I can shim or cut off the oleo to get the model to the correct sitting height: I then had to figure out how to make the top attachment point of the MLG just as robust. I took the previous section of hardened piano wire and cut it to length being mindful of the bend angles. I found a piece of hard plastic tube the correct OD to fit the inside diameter of the tube and the correct ID to hold the piano wire. This will all get slathered with JB Weld as well, to eventually make one solid robust MLG section. I will also use some thin card stock around the upper attachment area and flod it with JB too to emulate the squared off section at the top/mounting section of the gear: All for now gents, Ill be back on the big girl this week, likely tomorrow again after work. Cheers!
  10. 17 points
    Yes, shes back on the bench.................... I sat down the other day to work on my Speeder bike and on the other side sets the Tigercat, on a freshly cleaned bench. I just sat and looked at it for a few min before picking up my speeder bike, and before I knew it, I had the engine resin pools out and was separating things from side to side. I guess sometimes things just click, so I took advantage of the feeling and utilized the new found motivation for the big cat to start working on the engines and props. First things first though as I bring back why and where I left off at the last point I worked on the big F7F. I stopped at the point of gluing the two wing sections together in full. After doing that, I figured out that the F7F example that HpH used for their kit, has an odd cut to the outside wingtip. Im not sure if it was a mod, or just a 1 off, or something that is under a bolted on section of the tip. Regardless of what it is, its not correct for 95% or more of Tigercats including the trainer 405 that I am replicating. You can see what HpH based their wingtip shape off of in the lower left corner: I looked high and low for clear tooth brushes and what not but NOPE. No where. I bet I looked at 15 or more different stores of varying types. I gave up. I found these however, that despite their high cost, fit the bill perfetly to replicate F7F style wing tip lights while allowing me to work the wingtip into a new shape that I needed: Im putting the wingtips off for a bit to get a start on the twin R2800s. This is going to be a LONG process. I almost was thinking about investing in some of the other nice resin ones, but Im pushing on with the OOB ones for now. I started by separating all the different resin pools between the two engines, so I could assemble them "assembly line style". his includes the main cases, front trans, mounts, push rod covers, cylinders, heat shields ignition rings prop boss and prob hubs and intake/exhaust rings: Im going to insert a brass tube 1 size bigger into the front cover than the size of brass tube Im working into the prop hub. These are really nicely molded actually: I almost forgot what the big girl looked like on the inside. I really happy with the way the Tigercats cockpit turned out. Shes been silently waiting for me to return to her for quite some time....... All for now gents. Who knows how progress will commence but I will be continuing on with the big F7F regardless as I keep reminding myself how many chances one has to build his favorite AC of all time in his favorite scale of all time. Cheers!
  11. 16 points

    1:32 scale Hansa Brandenburg W.29

    Hi all, I thought you might like to see the start of my next Wingnut Wings model - the Hansa-Brandenburg W.29 (CM3G version), No.2512 flown by Oberleutnant Friedrich Christian Christiansen of ’Seeflugstation 1’, from Zeebrugge in Belgium during July 1918. So far I've completed the cockpit, which is now enclosed in the fuselage. I'm currently modifying the Benz III engine supplied in the kit, which although good, either lacks detail or what detail is pre-molded needs to be changed. The W.29 was a two seat float plane and as such is much larger than most of the single seaters I've built thus far. I'm hoping to have this model on a water effects base - we'll see. Mike
  12. 16 points

    A-4M "The Little Scooter"

    Hey guys Here is another model that I built years ago and now wants to show here. This is the trumpeter a-4 m. The kit is really top, but I still have a little accessories installed. I built an A-4 m USS Marines "VMA-214 Blacksheep ". The decals come from the kit and are very easy to process.
  13. 16 points
    It’s been a long 2 whole months since I have mangled any styrene with intent...but the dry spell is over. I have spent the last two months packing, moving, and then unpacking. My hobby room/office is not finished yet, and my work benches are still a week away, but a card gamble and some Tamiya glue is all I need to get started. The walls are painted and carpet is installed, this was a long ordeal because nobody stocks carpet in 15 foot widths except for beige. This MY room! I am going to hang airplane and Star Wars **** all over it! Told my wife to let me (asked politely) do as I please in there. I spent the last month buying every P-40 I could get my hands on, and accumulating some AM bits and bobs for them. I have also been trying to chase down the final versions of what I wanted to build, the last one decided this morning. To keep me on track, I’m going to stick with these. I now have all the decals and masks on hand or ordered, with the only exception being the Turkish version, which I have not found any decals to make, so I’m going to have to custom mask them. Here we go, let’s see how confusing it gets with 8 planes on the bench!
  14. 16 points
    So, here we go again... Those who may have been following my P-61A Thread may have seen my last post regarding a special build for a special friend. We discussed everything; F4U-2's, Spits, even Airacobra's. Imagine my surprise, not at the fact that he said he had found a kit and wouldn't tell me what it was but when he manhandled this thing through the front door... Mark has seen my work on the P-61 and wanted his own Night Ops Aircraft, hence the chats so of course, this one has to be a Black Cat... Anyhoo, a dry fit of the Girl. My God this thing is huge! The Cutting Mat is A2... Talking of cutting, I fancy opening up the Port Side a bit to show some internals, honestly, I cannot believe the detail of this thing... So here we go then... Cheers Steve
  15. 16 points

    F4U-1D 1/32 Tamiya

    Here is anther Corsair.
  16. 16 points

    Aerotech Piaggio Pc.7 Finished.

    I have spent some time replacing some of the resin pins with brass on parts that will be easy to break. The water rudder sticks out a considerable distance and knowing the properties of resin, it wouldn't take too much to break, so this was the first part to receive some attention. The kit `pin' I drilled a 1mm hole right through the rudder and fitted it with a brass pin. At least if it is knocked it will bend rather than snap off. I have set the brass with super glue and will tidy up the protrusion later. I fitted a corresponding tube to accept the brass pin of the water rudder. The ailerons have 1 pin to secure them to the wings. Once again, easy to snap off if the model is grabbed wrong. I replaced the single pin with 3 x 1mm brass pins. Similarly with the boat propeller. This model has come together very quickly. Looks great from all angles. The kit comes with a multi part beaching trolley which I have partially assembled to rest the model on.
  17. 15 points
    Thanks folks & thanks Troy - that is exactly how I like to see it - one bolt at a time I have made what is listed as the 'Right Switch Box' - it's this bit here.. ..one of the advantages of making your own PE is that you can pre-think how to render shapes. In this case, the actual switch box is a simple rectangle with holes & details, but the circuit breaker cover plate is a structure i decomposed and 'folded flat' so I could try and fold it up in PE.. ..with some folds & bends, I have a scale reproduction with all the angles juts right as they are from the drawing of just this part... ..made a base shape from thick card and assembled the laminate of the switch panel itself. It has a small dial so I added the decal and a sheet of glass to the back structure.. ..then other components were folded or added and the switch handle made from bits.. ..all sprayed with semi gloss black.. ..and with the addition of the custom decals the component is complete.. ..and this is where it will sit.. ..more boxes & bobbins to come to carry on with the sidewall.. TTFN Peter
  18. 15 points
    Managed to get the pre-shade on today using Tamiya Panzer Grey followed by filling each panel with a mottle to try and add some tonal variation when the main colours go down. Tried this approach on my Revell 190 F-8 I am working on with some really good results. I made sure the starboard lower wing had a very heavy pre shade as it was painted "Black" on this particular airframe. Regards. Andy
  19. 15 points

    1/32 Marauder

    I printed some parts for the interior structure. These are just my interpretation (therefore no guarantee for accuracy) from various cutaway drawings I found, and the 360-degree views found here: http://www.nmusafvirtualtour.com/cockpits/WWII_tour/WWII-10.html They still need lots of clean-up and sanding for a better fit, but they'll add much stability to the large fuselage. Cheers Alex
  20. 15 points
    Guess whos BaAAAAAAAAAAK!! The big kittys back!!
  21. 15 points
    thanks folks a little more done.. I started to shape the rollover casting at the top of the 'A' frame behind the seat - just a chunk of brass shaped to a PE template I got from the drawing.. ..and once it was finished it was added in place.. ..also added some of the bigger bolts to the assembly - a few more to go.. ..I used some 3.2mm 'U' shaped brass channel to form the fuselage longerons - the PE structures have been designed to fit into the channel. These were again bent from the scaled drawing with the kink in the lower one being done by slitting it. bending it, and soldering it back up.. ..once I had the longerons made, I had to start thinking about a jig so I can assemble the sides - I used the drawings I made doing the PE and derived enough to set out some templates forwhere the longerons sit at front & rear. I also marked where the major fuselage stations are and will work this up into a proper jig.. it's just resting together for now.. ..I think I need to do the sides as units so I can remove them and detail them otherwise it would be tricky to just work the whole coskpit up from this assembled state - I would be forever trying to reach inside & wll likely get frustrated ..it should serve useful to get everything lined up though.. TTFN Peter
  22. 14 points
    Just thought I'd start a WiP thread for my latest project I'm thinking Peter Jackson has one of these and uses it to pick is next project I was going to start with the cockpit but there are too many of them I just ordered this one
  23. 14 points
    Evening folks, I've put the finishing touches to Trumpeter's 1/32nd scale Flanker C over the weekend. I embarked upon this build as I have always loved the twin-seat Flanker and thought it would be a straight-forward build to be getting on with in the background and as a break from my longer term vacform and scratch-build projects when I needed it... I was wrong. I was rather disappointed with the overall quality and fit of the kit to be honest - the fit was very poor in places, in particular the wing to fuselage join was problematical as the wing was much thinner than the attachment point at the root. The fit of the intake trunking was tricky (I think the forward sections are actually slightly larger in diameter than the rear sections) and the cockpit glazing was considerably wider than the fuselage and was difficult to attach - it's still far from perfect to be honest but passable from a distance. There were numerous mold-lines and flash to clean up in many places, and the nose cone section was also a poor fit. However, perseverance is the key, but there is more filler on here than I had anticipated, especially for a 'modern' kit of this nature. There are some lovely aspects to the kit though - the gear bays are nicely detailed out of the box, jet pipes are pretty good and the airframe surface detail is lovely and comes out well after a light wash. And it certainly captures the mean, menacing look of the Flanker nicely. Sukhoi Su-27UB - "Red 64" Apart from some Eduard etch in the cockpit, the model was made from the box with Hannants' Xtracolour enamels being used along with the kit decals. All painting was completed freehand with a Badger 200 airbrush. Happy modelling! Tom
  24. 13 points

    Weathering your Heinkel

    I know there are a few He-111 builds happening out there and I just came across this photo taken from another He-111 flying close above. I'm really amazed how bright the stencils are and the fuel streaks near the wing roots.
  25. 13 points

    Switching scales?

    I don't see why it has to be an either/or proposition. Buy and build whatever you want! I mix scales and genres regularly, and find the variety refreshing. Admittedly, I save all my major efforts for LSP projects, but still have a healthy stash of aircraft in other scales, as well as a few kits that aren't aircraft at all. Right now I'm tinkering with a few sci-fi kits, and really enjoying the change of pace. Kev