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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/29/2019 in all areas

  1. 24 points
    CZPetrP

    F-16CJ Block 50 1/32 Tamiya

    F-16CJ, 91-0348, 77 FS/20 FW, SW, Operation Iraqi Freedom, 2003 (maternity base-SHAW AFB, North Caroline) Accessories Aires: cockpit, wheel bay, exhaust nozle Wheelland: Wheels Master: pitot tube Paint: Gunze C, MR Paint, Aero Master Wash: AK Interactive, Ammo Mig Foto: my frend Miloslav( thank you)
  2. 24 points
    Koralik

    MiG-23MF "122" Trumpeter 1:32

    This time something with Polish insignia. One of the most interesting cold war jets. MiG-23MF with side number 122. Model Trumpeter 1:32 scale, model made straight out of the box + Techmod decals.
  3. 21 points
    Greif8

    Helmut Wick Bf109 E-4

    I got some PMs while building the WNW Fokker DVII asking about figure painting. As I said in that thread the pilot figure turned out a bit below average as I was not able to turn the somewhat sub-standard casting into a nice finished product. A few folks seemed surprised that I was disappointed my work and asked what I considered a good figure to be. The photos of a build I did of Helmut Wick's fighter a few years ago, shown circa mid to late October 1940 after he took command of JG2, features two figures I thought turned out well. The castings were excellent and I can sometimes get the moon and stars to align when the base product is a good as those two figures were. The other reason for posting this build is that I have recently read some older threads about the in accuracies of some scale kits, the Eduard Bf109 E-4 being one of them, and realized just how clueless I am when it comes to assessing how accurate the dimensions or form(s) of a kit aircraft is compared to the real thing. Honestly the only thing that jumped out at me on this kit when I built it was the undercarriage is not raked far enough forward and stands a bit too tall - at least to my eye. All the other dimensional errors went completely unnoticed by me. I realized what a disconnect that is as I generally build aircraft that are tied to a specific pilot or event and usually strive to portray the aircraft marked and weathered as accurately as possible. For example I actually put in a lot of practice perfecting the technique of applying the mottling with the blunt end of an old cut down Number 4 "pointer" brush, as that was the way it was applied in real life. After a lot of work on a paint mule I managed to get the effect pretty close on the build (in my opinion at least), but I did not fix the slight hump at the top rear of the fuselage as I just did not see it until it was brought to my attention. Makes me wonder if I need to up my game. <grin>
  4. 20 points
    Thanks guys! Finally got around to doing some sponge chipping and sealed all of the weathering to this point with a flat coat.
  5. 19 points
    Hi guys, I have just completed Revell's 1/32 P-51D early Mustang. This was OOB with the exception of the HGW textile harnesses. I used Tamiya acrylics and lacquers, Vallejo Metal Color, Windsor & Newton oils and AK weathering products. I really enjoyed this build, fit issues aside. I decided to use the supplied decals rather than masks for this build. The quality of the decals is fantastic. I believe they're Cartograf. I used flat and semi-gloss clear coats to represent the sheen in the areas of the hotly debated 'was it blue or was it green?' topic.
  6. 17 points
    The cracks kept on re-appearing, so out came the heavy artillery. The grooves were filled with superglue and Microballs. After some additional puttying and sanding, I fitted the tail fin. I used aluminium profiles from Albion Alloys to ensure perfect fit and stability. Finally some visible progress!
  7. 16 points
    Thunnus

    1/32 Revell Bf109G-6/AS Hohenjager

    Wanting to take a brief break from the Corsair and Ta152H builds, I took a look at the AMUR Reaver resin cowling for the Bf109G-6/AS conversion. I removed the casting blocks from the parts with a razor saw. Interestingly, the casting block for the cowling piece had a nested set of small fairings which needed to protected. Fortunately the saw cut line did not put the small parts in harm's way. The panel lines were of irregular depth and consistency so I reinforced them with the scriber. Of course, my blade skipped a few times, which required some minor putty work. The required surgery on the kit fuselage parts is quite easy compared to the AMUR Reaver cowling replacement for the G-10 Erla. A few strategic cuts through relatively thin areas made it an easy exercise. A preliminary fitting of the resin engine cowling onto the fuselage. I had left some excess plastic on the top edge of the forward fuselage cut so I was able to square off that joint. Preliminary fit of the AMUR Reaver cowling is very encouraging.
  8. 16 points
    Uncarina

    Ki-45 Kai Hei Toryu: Completed

    Finally have the squadron masks sorted. Not much left to do except final details and weathering! Cheers, Tom
  9. 14 points
    viper-dc

    F-14A Tamiya 1/48 VF-84

    I used only the Aires wheel bay for the Hobby Boss and the Eduards zoom set for a cockpit that was designed for a Hasegawa.
  10. 14 points
    Thunnus

    1/32 Revell Bf109G-6/AS Hohenjager

    After fitting the Barracuda spinner onto the AMUR Reaver cowling, I thought I'd pack the build back up and concentrate on the Corsair. But John1's comment about the Aires resin cockpit made me very curious. Without diving into the details of the resin set, I thought I'd at least check the fit of the main components: cockpit tub + the two sidewalls. I removed the sidewalls from their casting blocks, making sure to retain the mounting tabs on the bottom edge. Based on my experience with the Aires G-10 cockpit, I left the humongous casting black on the tub untouched for now. There are some gaps at the joints but overall the fit of the three components was relatively positive. There are no rock solid attachment points between the cockpit tub and insides of the fuselage so I'll have to make final placement relative to other components, such as the rear cockpit sill. Still, this should give me an idea of the kind of adjustments I'll need to make in order to make the resin fit. To my pleasant surprise and just like my experience with the G-10 cockpit, the Aires pit seems to fit ok even with the casting block of the tub in place. The gap in the fuselage framing above the forward cockpit section is easily closed with light finger pressure. There would be no reason why the AMUR Reaver cowling would NOT fit over this but I wanted to verify it with my own eyes. I recognize that glued parts have much less give than taped components so this is not a final result but I'm not encountering any significant fit issues between the resin cockpit parts, kit fuselage and AMUR Reaver cowling. I even slipped on the canopy for good measure. If my G-10 experiences hold true with this build, I'll have some conflict between the casting block and the wing spar but that should be an easy hack job with the results hidden from view.
  11. 14 points
    Gazzas

    Hasegawa Bf 109F

    With the markings on, I began the delicate job of unmasking. Unfortunately, there were four instances of paint lift and substantial touch up required. However, the Ansbach Wappen and the famous Green heart went trouble free. There should have been some very fine lines to split each crown vertically into 3 parts. But I decided that they would be too fine to portray. Cheers! Gaz
  12. 13 points
    Greif8

    WNW Fokker DVII (Early)

    I completed the simple base yesterday and mounted the plane and pilot on it so this build is 100% complete. Following are a few photos. As I stated in the in progress thread I took a bit of artistic license when it came to shading the blue and red - though due to the shadows the top wing gives under certain light conditions the differences red shading actually looks a lot less than it showed up in the pictures I took during the build. As an aside I have started the next step in my WWI German aircraft odyssey this year as I have started the WNW Albatros DV/DVa "Wooden Wonders" kit. Replicating the wood should be fun and hopefully I won't make too much of a hash with the rigging. I'll start a new "in Progress" thread soon.
  13. 13 points
    quang

    ICM 1/32 Gladiator. The slow build

    Thank you Mike and Mark And the build goes on... with THE ENGINE. ICM provides optional parts for two configurations: cowling closed or with open panels. Check carefully the instructions to decide which parts to use. These are the parts I used for a closed cowling: Parts are painted prior to assembly Townend collector ring added. Note machine-gun synchronization mechanism on top of crankcase The cowling comprises of 3 parts and needs careful study to locate them in the final assembly. The parts assemble superbly without putty. Admirable design Power egg in situ With propeller That's it folks. Next time we'll look at the wings. All questions and comments are welcome as usual. Cheers; Quang
  14. 13 points
    Thunnus

    1/32 Revell Bf109G-6/AS Hohenjager

    Thanks for all of the comments! Establishing the preliminary fit of the AMUR Reaver cowling to the kit fuselage, I prepared the Barracuda resin spinner, added a prop shaft using a piece of plastic rod and mounted it to the cowling to check the fit. It looks ok at this point but things can change as parts are glued into place permanently. Since I was at this stage, I wanted to check the fit of the windscreen and canopy as well. The windscreen actually slides UNDER the cowling piece so the little bulges on the fuselage fairing in front of the windshield need to be trimmed away. The exterior fuselage components seem to be lining up fairly well. Next I'll have to see how the Aires resin cockpit factors into the fit equation.
  15. 12 points
    mark31

    Lublin R XIIIG

    ok here my entry its a small nice plane its my first kit from this brand full resin but the castings and the fitting looks verry good Mark
  16. 12 points
    I like very much the way Brett Green does his reviews and his style is copied a lot by others, so having a look at his reviews is a good start. He tells you a little bit of history of the type, he tells you what is special about the version included in the kit and then concludes with a list of "advantages" and "disadvantages". Many reviewers shy away from pointing out "disadvantages" in kits due to some misguided belief that pointing out "issues" makes it a "bad review" and "bad reviewers" will not longer get products to review in the future. That is not really the case. Manufacturers appreciate "good and honest" feedback". If it is a real and true issue, it is not wrong to point it out. In the past Brett pointed out "issues" with some of my products, for example in one of my early decal sheet instructions that showed only profiles I did not mention the national insignia decals for the opposite side - I did not think that would be an issue, but I fixed the instructions to make them clearer and I continued to do so on my subsequent decal sheets. I will continue to send him samples for review. There are a few of things I hate in reviews: - Lazy "copy and paste" and taking the "word on the street" or "agreed consent" as "Gospel." I have seen reviews where the reviewer said stuff like "this kit is notorious for the bad fit" but then it turns out that the "bad fit" was discovered by some random guy on Facebook who taped the parts together without following the instruction manual or preparing the parts (removing tab leftovers, sanding, etc) and then posted a photo in which they "flipped the bird" at a jumble of kit parts. There are actually some guys whose "schtick" is to be angry and badmouth stuff. They are not a representative segment of the modelling public out there. If you feel like you need to test-fit parts, do it for yourself and do not take the word of some guy. If you are going to put your name on a review, make sure it is based on your own experience. - Do not take the word of the "internet experts" as "Gospel" in general. If in doubt, double-check for yourself. The list of "internet BS peddled as fact" is long. - Do not use words like "A team" and "B team". Each kit is developed individually. Slapping a label on a kit just because it comes from a certain "stable" is lazy. Regular Joes may say that on forums if they wish (even so, one man's treasure is another man's trash) but you as a reviewer need to stay impartial, no bias. You can only review what is in your hands. - You have to be aware of tooling limitations. Sometimes parts need to be separated in "unusual" places, some parts need to be thicker, some detail needs to be omitted or simplified, some clear parts will cause distortion, some decals may not include certain national insignia and often there are no ways around them. These limitations have been discussed ad nauseam on forums and we need to accept them as modellers. You can mention them if you wish with the caveat that they are tooling limitations. "Calling them out" as "issues" in reviews is disingenuous. - There are no "fatal flaws", only "challenges". :-) HTH Radu
  17. 12 points
    Continuation of the paintwork... Tamiya XF-83 Medium Sea Gray all over and taped ribs. Ewww, what is that? Masking of the wing roundels... Good old danish red & white roundel... Basic airbrush paintwork done... Cheers: Kent
  18. 12 points
    dodgem37

    Fw190A-5 Black 7, 5./JG 54, May 1943

    Thank you, Brothers. 'Looks like some real Optivisor-level work there!' Indeed. I used to use a 10x watchmakers loupe I picked up from somewhere. But my nose kept getting in the way! Small update. The things you do for love . . . Not so focused. Oh well. Attempted to make the inner door retraction arm a bit more accurately. That's better. A nut will go on top of the brass eye. Still have to trim the rod-to-D ring connection. Udder side. Double-sided adhesive film as temporary fastener. Thanks for looking and liking. Sincerely, Mark
  19. 12 points
    Thank you for the comments! The aerial mast on the tail fin broke off so I took the opportunity to fashion the aerial attachment hardware from electrical wire and brass tubing. Some of the post-shading was done, including the exhaust stains.
  20. 12 points
    Thanks guys! I really liked the HGW wet transfers. In some ways, they are superior to masks since they seem to be thinner than a coat of paint. I had excellent results using warm water and the Mr Setter solution with a dry time of about 3-4 hours. Time for a panel wash! As usual, I am using a home-mixed pastel wash comprised of water, pastel chalk and a drop of dishwash soap. For the white and lighter blue areas, I am using a brown color. Please note, the stenciling on the wing bottoms are Tamiya decal and you can see the edges of the decal film. I'm hoping that a little Micromeshing and the flat coat will blend them in. Difficult to see the effect on a wide angle shot of the entire wing but if you zoom in on certain areas, you can notice the effect. My goal with the wash, in addition to highlighting detail, is to reduce the physical grooves and holes with lines and dots, which I think makes the surface look less like a plastic model. Here's the top side of the port wing. No decal film visible here! The underside of the aircraft is completely covered with rivets, panel lines and other details. So the wash will almost cover the surface completely. After the wash is completely dry, it is wiped off carefully with a moistened paper towel. I use small pieces and toss each piece as they get loaded with the dark wash. The darker blue upper surfaces are treated with a darker brown (almost black) wash. The effect is much more subtle due to the reduced contrast between the wash and the dark blue camo color. But it should be more visible once the blue gets lightened with a flat coat. Next, I'm going to do some post-shading and some chipping using a fine sponge.
  21. 11 points
    Eduard PE and exhausts. Scratch built camera and bay. Custom paint mix for the camotint pink. Markings all sprayed from custom masks.
  22. 11 points
    Hartmann52

    Ju-87B, 1:32, Trumpeter

    Horrido! Luftwaffe Experten im Zweiten weltkrieg! Work in progress
  23. 11 points
    kensar

    1/32 Thomas Morse S4C scratchbuild

    Just a brief update after a break for the holidays. Added longerons to the fuse bottom, as they are visible through the cockpit opening.
  24. 11 points
    Thanks Gazas, much appreciated cheers thanks Albert, it's all for the Mustang passion cheers jejej, gracias Tag, rock duro! Thanks Thor, glad you like it, kind words! Cheers Glad you like it Sepp, hopefully will keep it going ! cheers Progress from last session on the seat, printed some dashed lines on white decals and some barracuda leftovers also, hope you like it, until next, cheers Antonio
  25. 10 points
    Dandiego

    XB-51 Dragon

    Slightly improved seat. Beginning to rough out the cockpit dimensions. Dan
  26. 10 points
    You are correct, but where I have put the gear leg is much better than where it was before. Here it is again, showing that once the tire is attached, it will likely protrude slightly over the wing rib on the outside (but barely), rather than just inside it like the pic you have provided above. The gear doors, which I'm not going to be using, can still be attached and will angle over those same ribs like the real deal. The gap between door and leg is narrower than it should be, but without doors it won't be noticeable. And here is why it is where it is. The new part I created is pretty strong, but is much stronger when glued to the original part as reinforcement. All of the weight of the model will be on these locations, so strength is very important. To get the location as accurate as possible, I would need to cut this part out, which I don't want to do. In summary, without trying to be too defensive, there's not a lot about this model that is perfect to begin with, so if the landing gear is out a few inches when compared to the real deal, I'm OK with that. Cheers, Chuck
  27. 9 points
    monthebiff

    1/32 ZM Henschel Hs-129 B-2

    Decals nearly complete and very happy so far. I have some MRP Orange Yellow on order to bring the previous sprayed yellow bands more in to matching the national markings as mentioned by Florin. Getting there slowly but surely. Regards.Andy
  28. 9 points
    viper-dc

    Fw 190A-8 Eduard profi Pack 1/48

    I still have to paint the black part behind the exhaust and the cannon.
  29. 9 points
    viper-dc

    F/A-18E Eduard (Hasegawa) 1/48

    I used the Aires wheel bays, but only for the front wheel.
  30. 9 points
    viper-dc

    F-14B Hasegawa 1/48 VF-74

    Extras used: Fightertown Decals, Aires exhaust nozzles, Aires cockpit Paints and colors used: Gunze Mr.Color, Model Masters( Testors)
  31. 9 points
    chrish

    LSP- Large Scary Project

    Thank you! I'm definitely open to suggestions, I may remove molded kit skin and add thin sheet plastic and/ or foil to the areas I plan on perforating. I've also been experimenting with tissue (flying balsa model tissue, not the blow your nose tissue) for shredded fabric. Here's a couple of my earlier attempts at wrecks from a few years ago (almost 18 years ago now...time flies!) These are all from my early days of returning to modelling 1:32 Hasegawa kits ; Fw 190 A...? Inspired from the cover of a Luftwaffe im focus Fw 190 d-9 Inspired by a web image, the actual aircraft was an A-8 A6M52C...I think....imagination Please excuse the dust, spider webs and hair in the pictures, these models have been faithfully collecting dust for almost 2 decades
  32. 9 points
    chrish

    LSP- Large Scary Project

    Thanks for looking, commenting Work has moved ahead a bit, the first plastic has been cut for the B-17 and trying to get the fit, look and feel of the pilots from the book cover...
  33. 8 points
    baffozac

    IMAM Ro43 1/32 scratch-built

    Hello, Maketar maskings has been used. The masking for the rudder painting was done with Bare Metal. As it is a very fine adhesive, there is no "step" between the colors. The coat of arms of the House of Savoy is a dry transfer from Georges Olivereau . The cables are a mix of RB and Gaspatch parts. The rudder control cables are lined with 0.1 ( 3 mm on the true plane). The ring to fix the antenna wire (photodec drop) has been fixed for a long time.
  34. 8 points
    viper-dc

    F-14A Tamiya 1/48 VF-74

    I used the accessories: -Fightertown decals -Crossdelta walkways -Master pitot -Eduard cockpit (excellent) -Eduard wheels -Quickboost chin pod with ECM / TCS equipment -Quickboost tail reinforcement plates -Quickboost beaver tail
  35. 8 points
    BradG

    JG 52 Messerschmitt Bf 109K *Completed*

    Mucking around with weathering tonight, got a nice wash on and as you can see, I like to muddy up the tires, although this will pull back a bit when I hit it with the flat coat. I still need to put the canopy on and the landing light covers. Exhaust staining needs some work too. Approaching the finish line though.
  36. 7 points
  37. 7 points
    Dandiego

    XB-51 Dragon

    Getting close to gluing the first fuselage side to the keel. With a vacform model the plastic is thin and there is usually a very small gluing surface. So I have added lots of styrene bars to increase the total surface area that will glue the fuselage half to the keel. In the last photo you can see the 2 metal supports for the engines. I have modified the attachment of the rear support. Instead of running all the way from one side to the other I have installed it like the front support by bending it so that it can be glued to the inside of the fuselage. Later, Dan
  38. 7 points
    Work on the trolleys and some scratched wooden trestles for the floats... Trolley wheel detail. Cheers: Kent
  39. 7 points
    'Seriously, wish I could see you in action - might learn a thing or two (million)' It's all about research and doing it as many times as necessary until you get it 'right'. It's a slow, laborious, and thinking process. It's asking and answering the question "How do I make this and with what to best represent what I am seeing (in the research material)?' It's not about speed at all. 'it’s wonderful!!!!!!' Thank you, Brother. A few more. Thank you for looking and liking. Sincerely, Mark
  40. 7 points
    F`s are my favs

    F-117A • Nighthawk

    Canopy adventures... So basically I "reupholstered" the inner side of the frame with 1mm plastic sheet to add more thickness. That's how it was before: and after, with the detailing and the 2 hidraulics for the closing/opening: Then, I'm about to change the plastic zig-zag ram pattern with PE pieces. The original plastic ram is too too thick and had imperfections from the cutting: Still not glued but those are the PE pieces:
  41. 7 points
    Dandiego

    XB-51 Dragon

    Before I can start working on the cockpit I thought that I should come up with a seat so that I could design the cockpit around the seat. So what kind of seat did the B-51 use.......................................Exactly, I don't know either. And you will only be able to see the top half through the small canopy, so.................. I think that if I build a "kinda" representative 1950's seat no one will be able to call me out on it. So here is what I have. Cobbled together from several sources. Small refinements and extra details to follow. Dan
  42. 7 points
    Dandiego

    XB-51 Dragon

    As promised in my last post here are some pics of the metal supports. In the second picture you can see the plastic spreader bar that keeps both sides firmly in place. I will be adding 2 more spreader bars. Now on to the cockpit assembly. Dan
  43. 7 points
    viper-dc

    F-14D Tamiya 1/48 VF-11

    I made a model directly from the box.
  44. 7 points
    First sprues: www.facebook.com/DoraWings Juraj
  45. 7 points
    Daniel Iscold

    Fw-190 1/18

    Dear Friends After some weeks gattering information about Fw-190 we finally put our hands to work!! Yesterday by night we try to make a new control stick. The one made by Hobbyboss is far from a Fw-190 control stick, in fact is far from any air plane control stick. Using internet images as reference, we both try to hand carve a new one from a piece of sprue. Using files, dremel bits, sand paper, x acto knive blade tips... well, at the end Thiago won!!! After this I suggested him to replace the trigger at the top of the handle. This part is not finished yet there is some refinement work to do on the part and some missing details like some wires runing through the control colum. The plan for next week is to move foward with the pilots seat and side consoles. For now, a big thanks to Rogerio Marczak, who send us a vast source of information about the A versions of bucther birds. Thanks Rato!!!! Hope you like it
  46. 6 points
    John1

    Forgotten War Mustang

    Two updates in a single day! Wife and young daughter are out for the day so I'm much more productive than usual (which really doesn't say much). I tend to put off unpleasant tasks for as long as possible. In order to complete the fuselage and paint it, I need to sand the seam off the canopy, which is a PITA. As such, I'm going to be working on the ordinance for a while. First up are the napalm tanks. This rather horrific weapon was pretty much a standard fit during the war, with 500 lb GP bombs a distant second. Plenty of info on the thread I posted on in the Aviation forum for those interested. Bottom line is - these tanks came in a wide range of colors and conditions, from clean natural metal, to immaculate bright yellow to really nasty, dirty shades of yellow or ZYC. Here are a couple of pictures to demonstrate how gross these tanks could get: I've got confirmation that the primary napalm tanks used by F-51's were the 110 gal version (although the smaller 75's were also used at times). The kit ones are really nice. I simply added the "can" that was tack-welded to the aft left side of the tanks. This can held one of the two igniters used on these tanks. The other was installed on the fuel tank filler cap. Here is a nice picture (courtesy of "Tourist") that shows the "kit" used to convert these drop tanks into napalm bombs: I started by adding some dents to these tanks. Again, some tanks were pristine, others were heavily banged up (as you can see above, no care was taken to protect these during the filling process). I then sprayed each tank matt aluminum, added a bit of hairspray and then shot them with a thin, variable coat of Yellow Zinc Chromate. I then used the good ole hairspray method to replicate a bit of wear and tear. After that, I applied some black and brown pastels: After that had set up, I went about trying to replicate the nasty crap that got spilled over these tanks during the filling process. As best I can tell, they filled the tanks with a mix of dyed, jellied gasoline and a white powder. I had some real issues trying to replicate the white powder. I used white pastels and even flour. Neither would adhere very well, even when used in conjunction with various mediums. I then used my 8-year old daughter's water color paint for the red spillage (thanks Brooke!). I also added the front and rear igniters. These will eventually be safety wired to the pylons. So at that point, I wasn't completely happy with the look. I didn't think it was as close to the pics above as I wanted, plus the red "goo" was a bit too glossy. I went back to the workbench and made a mix of orange / red water paint (thanks again Brooke) and flour to replicate the clumpyness of this liquid. Got this tip from a kind gent on ARC! I also went heavier on the orange tint this time. I added this new mix to some of the stained area. I then applied some acrylic flat white to the fronts of the tanks. I'm much happier with the results. The reddish stains are still too shiny but I'll be spraying these tanks with flat later to seal everything in. Only issue is that I don't have time right now to take any pics. I'll get something posted in a bit. That's it for now, tanks for looking!
  47. 6 points
    viper-dc

    MiG-31BM AMk 1/48

    Excellent AMK model, it's really a pleasure to work with such a good model.
  48. 6 points
    LSP_Kevin

    Primer for NMF finish

    In my review of AK Interactive's Xteme Metal colours, I did the following A/B test using grey and black base colours: And my comments from the review: Kev
  49. 6 points
    LSP_Kevin

    What's New - 22 January 2020

    Howdy folks, I've just published an overdue What's New update. Enjoy! Kev
  50. 6 points
    Thanks Brian for the comments and Chris for the vote of confidence! Ok......I've been throwing everything I've got at this one and it's been a lot of little things that all add up to the bigger picture. Engine bay is......finished!! And I've got everything done here except for some work on the hood, some R/T badges, windshield wiper install and custom exhaust tips.
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