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  1. Hi guys! Been a member for a LONG time, but this is actually my first post! Hope you like it! This is the ancient Tamiya 1/32 F-14A from 1994. This was a 9 years build, but to be honest about 8,5 of it was as a shelf queen, because it drained all my mojo.... Anyway, enough excuses.... Kit: Tamiya Scale: 1/32 Extras used: Technics F-14B airframe conversion, Trumpeter Laser Guide practice bombs and TER, Fightertown decals and LOTS of scratch Paints: Tamiya, Mr. Hobby colors, Vallejo Metal Colour, AK Xtreme metal Weathering: Abteilung 502's, Flory models wash Hope you liked it!! SORRY for the looooooong post!!
    44 points
  2. Hi everyone So, an actual RFI post from me - quite a rare thing, though I notice I started this model in October 2020 so 10 months is not bad for a scratchbuild I guess..... the benefits of lockdown right This Fury was lost in a midair collision with K2901 on 17th December 1937 near Rowlands Castle, Hampshire. Both pilots, Flying Off (Acting Flight Lt) Harry Hamilton Peck (aged 26) and Sgt Robert Edmund Patten (aged 26) were killed. One day i hope to display it in Tangmere Museum as a memorial to them. It is scratchbuilt, with a vacformed fuselage and rib & spar flying surfaces sheathed in thin scored plastic card.. ..anyways, enough waffle and on with some pics... I learned loads and I have to say really enjoyed making this one - a first for a full scratchbuild and my first biplane gives me a lot of confidence to tackle other subjects and I had a lot of support from folks on the way - in particular everyone who encouraged me in my WIP and Tigger & Radu for help with the vacforming & masks I needed, and Glijn (Lightpainter here) for some invaluable guidance & refs for the airframe this is how we choose to remember those who lost their lives in the service of their country until next time Peter
    43 points
  3. And a closer look
    40 points
  4. Good evening MT friends; finally the phantom is completed and posted in the gallery. Needless to summarize the whole thing, I just say that the dated kit is not exactly a pleasure ride. The aftermarket did not lack to enrich the model. I used the technique of black basing and if I'm honest in the end I was satisfied especially for the subsequent treatments that have returned to that pile of gray a little "life". The AoA decals behaved very well: thin and resistant and did not fear the aggressive Mr Mark Softer. I also added the fuse and igniter on the Snakeyes. For those who want to take inspiration on the work done I invite you to revisit the wip ( https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/87608-f-4j-vmfa-115-silver-eagle-132-tamiya-home-made-decals-result/ ). Away with the pictures taken a little with the cell phone than with the Nikon I hope the images aren't too many Vintage... Well, I hope I haven't bored you with all these pictures but the Phantom, good or bad it came, is still the KING of the USMC. Thanks guys and I hope you like the model. Happy Holiday
    37 points
  5. One of my favorite jets this time. A-6E Intruder Trumpeter 1:32. The model, as always, is made straight from the box without any additional resins. The model is quite difficult to make, but it is still one of the best Trumpeter models in 1:32 scale
    37 points
  6. Good evening all. May I present to you, my big Sukhoi Flanker. I acquired this monster kit from fellow LSP’er @LSP_Ray sometime last year. It came with pretty much all of the aftermarket bits and bobs available from @Zactoman , Aires, some Reskit exhausts, to which I also added Foxbot Decals and digital camouflage painting masks for the finish. We all know the kits shortcomings, and we all know how exquisite the resin ‘fixes’ are. I’ve done nothing more than add the resin parts to the build, with no modifications other than is necessary to make them all fit neatly. I’ve built this with it being attractive, as opposed to it being totally accurate. The build was pretty straightforward, but following my own order of construction to save me work later down the line. Many hours of sanding and dry fitting gave me a relatively tidy seam finish all round. Painting has been exclusively done with MRP paints. Weathering done with a mix of oil paint washes of various colours, some very light panel lightening and dirtying up in random places. Metallic areas are all MRP metallic paints, with a bunch of pastels used randomly inside the exhausts. I can’t recommend the Foxbot masks and their decals highly enough. But lots of care and time must be taken with them, they’re extremely delicate and things can go wrong very quickly if one rushes. I had many a test piece of old kits to try out all the things I wanted to do with the final finish, just to make sure it all worked without a hitch. The photo’s are the best I’m afraid. I only have a compact point and shoot camera to use these days, rather than when I had DSLR kit and a studio space. Enjoy.
    35 points
  7. HI everyone, I finished this one last month. I did a lot of new stuff, mostly with oils, trying to give it an interesting but not overstated appearance. The propeller spinner was known to have the skull and cross bones on it, but nobody is really sure what went around the skull. So, I went with what I though would be the best looking symmetrical result, even though it is different from the fuselage skulls... or any other modeller's interpretation that I know of. Nobody is 100% certain that the wings were a standard camo pattern or the same as the fuselage pale green. I went with I believed would be the most interesting scheme. The model was painted with SMS and MRP lacquers and with small amounts of Tamiya acrylics where needed. Most details were painted with either AK Model color or Citadel aqueous acrylics. I stiffened vertical wing struts and LG struts with .5mm brass pin to give rigidity as well as enabling it to be pinned to the larger parts. I used Part Photo-etch for many finer details and some resin from an old Roden build which had fallen apart. I also used HGW Fabric belts because they are so much nicer to work with than etch belts. All of the markings were cut with my Silhouette Portrait. The rigging is elastic line coupled with Bob's Buckles. I hope you like it. Thank you for looking!
    35 points
  8. Hello all, i hope you have been keeping safe. I decided to do another one of Trumpeters Me262 A-1a's knowing that some of the issues could be fixed. As many are probably aware the weapons hatches on the front are pretty poor in shape and form, so this was addressed and hopefully look pretty decent this time. EagelCal decals were used for this aircraft plus Quickboost seat and Brassin wheels. Paints used were C117, C121,C122 all from Gunze. As ever, please feel free to comment on the build even if you think there could be improvement's Thanks for looking!
    31 points
  9. Just finished the wonderful 1/16 ATA girl figurine, Maureen Dunlop. A first for me as I’ve never really painted a large scale figure. Simple well sculpted with crisp detail a pleasure to work with and a mojo restorer.
    29 points
  10. Hello gentlemen , so after 2 months of work i can call this job DONE, here is a list of the items used for this model Tamiya 1/32 F-4C Quickboost air intake covers (so i dont have to blow my brains on fixing the horrible inside of the air intake) Stencil data painting templates Speed Hunter Graphics big phantoms data and stencil decals Def model resin wheels Maste models probe set Aires Cockpit Cam decals Bicentennial phantom Wolfpack nozzles red fox intrument 3D resin instrument panels as always all type of critics are welcome
    28 points
  11. Hey all Aft bulkhead about done- medical kit and a few odds and ends to go still- cheers Pete
    28 points
  12. F-4C Phantom II Tamiya 1:32 I can see that the F-4 Phantom has been in fashion recently on LSP. There is no point in writing about the model because it is a model that has been available on the market for many years. I made the F-4 on an individual order. The contracting authority had two requirements. First, F-4C model cannot have the side number 829 and the second is to be an extremely worn out Phantom II
    27 points
  13. First time posting a build here but I've been a long time lurker, I live in Guatemala and this is my 3rd helo and first one in this scale, first two where a Zulu and a Venom from KH too but in 1:48th. Anyway I'm by no means at level of the things you see here but I decided to post since this is the place where I most learned and where I've seen some insane modeling threads I use to inspire, sometimes discourage, but I'm willing to learn and improve. I'm way beyond this point but comments will be appreciated, some things are gonna be hard to change since I'm further away. And I'm not going after 100% accuracy but mostly general looks. I cut the kit in various assemblies and this is some of the things I've done along the way The tires have no thread so I tried to scrive it, only to realize I wasn't doing a good job, so I decided to paint the threads and from where I see them, they look good enough. rear rotor ready to install, and maybe waitting for more weathering later on Front IP and center console, painted and detailed with brush, the front IP is painted and only used the dials of the decal to avoid any kind of trouble with decals conforming over all that detail, Amo boxes. The big one was very hard to do since I had never seen one. H pilar with crane control detail Seats ready, damn I hate photoetched parts! I just can't make it to work Roof and floor before assembly, since i really suck at PE I'm toying with the idea of using the Academy tank and calling it done! might give it another try tho and one interior shot to see how things look
    27 points
  14. Agreed - Sunderlands certainly have that boat-like construction and yes, not too dissimilar hull plates. The upper wing surfaces are now on - before joining upper and lower surfaces I reinforced the leading edges of the wings with thick left over sprues from the HobbyBoss 1/32nd B-24. This not only provides strength, but gives a much larger gluing surface. It's not neat and it's not pretty, but it does the job. The joining surfaces for the nacelles were done in the standard way using plastic card tabs: The fuselage to wing join is not great, especially on the left wing. Mind the gap! However, this will be easily dealt with using filler, but it's always a good idea to pack such large gaps with plastic card: I took a lot of time ensuring the trailing edges are level at the roots, as well as the upper surfaces being as level as possible without leaving any hard to deal with steps. However, the wing root moulded in the fuselage is actually a slightly different shape to the wing - this is not unusual with vacforms but it does leave an awkward step to deal with: This will be a job for my trusty P-38 car body filler... The size of this model is now really apparent - I told the wife we should have bought a bigger sofa! It'll now be a case of some filling and sanding - stay tuned! All the best, Tom
    27 points
  15. The cockpit assembly has been glued together and the seat installed with RB Productions WW I German seatbelts added. As mentioned in another thread I find Radu’s seatbelts the very best. Luckily I’ve finally managed a accumulate enough of his WW I German seatbelts to equip the rest of my German WnWs kits. The diagonal bracing wires were done with Gas Patch turnbuckles and EZ Line. I initially tried using monofilament line but when attempting to tension it it pulled through the fragile lower attachment point. After repairs the EZ Line worked perfectly as no real strength is required there. The ammunition and was painted with Mr. Metal Polished Brass and the belt was done using a thin strip of Aviattic linen decal. The ammo belt itself has incredibly fine moulded detail including the grommets between each bullet. They don’t become visible (at least to my eyes and then with magnification) until the first thin coat of Tamiya’s white lacquer primer is applied. I thought “ holy crap, will you look at that!” when I first saw the detail! The magneto switch key had a fine safety chain added using extra chain provided by Eduard in the nose gun set for Tamiya’s Mosquito kit. I also scratch built an altimeter for the right cockpit sidewall which wound up being a last minute add on. I used a round piece of styrene, a brass bezel, instrument face, and clear acetate from Airscale. The altimeter is suspended in place by three springs. The three mounting points on the altimeter body are photo etch pieces from an HGW set for the WnWs Albatross and the springs are represented with brass tube from Bob’s Buckles. Cheers, Wolf
    27 points
  16. Howdy folks So, i looked at what I might do next and of the shortlist only a couple on my 'mildly want to' fitted in my display cabinet - a P36 Hawk, a Goshawk, a CR32, an H1 and all the ones on my 'really want to' didn't... Firefly, Sea Fury, Defiant, Blenheim and a few outliers like a Meteor, Spartan Executive and Lockheed 12 were all considered, but in the end, I did want a Firefly so I have restarted it I started by taking the balsa wings I had made and giving them a bit of skin integrity by screeding with P38 filler and a shot of primer - then started to make up the radiator sections.. ..the first bit has the end ribs and the radiator box - this is as 90 degrees to the fuselage, not running the same angle as the wing leading edge.. ..these were then shaped & primed.. ..then a top panel and the leading edge which cuts in lower than the rib profile.. ..sorted & primed - for now these are just general shapes to start me off.. ..with the wings partially sorted it was time to start on the fillet shapes - these have a distinct profile and curve upwards from the trailing edge - so this was defined with brass sheet to keep the shape no matter how hard I sand at it and will result in a sharp edge.. ..this shot reminds me of the start of the build where there is lego and all sorts making up the central fuselage block.. ..foil tape was added to the wings and they were slotted into place so i could build up to them with P38.. rough and ready, but this is the start needed before refining the shapes, the wings just break out from the filler as it won't stick to the ali tape.. ..the finished fillets can be seen here, along with the fuselage sides for the rear cockpit - there is so much to go in here, I need access so made up the sides with spots of CA so they can be broken out again once shaped.. ..the sides also had brass L shapes to hold the deck that sits on the top, and also some inside to define where the sides will sit in the aperture.. ..got some more P38 on and started shaping.. best get all this done before there is loads of delicate detail in there ..and with a shot of primer.. ..I also had the PE I originally designed remade after I made a few changes - here is the IP.. ..after lots of filler & engineering I felt like a change so made the rear bulkhead in the observers position - the tubes are for sono buoys I think.. ..it will sit in here something like this... ..so thats it - underway again - she is a big girl too... The only thing is, I can only find one late Firefly in the UK - in the reserve collection at Yeovilton. I wrote to them asking if i could get access to take pictures but they said no... the aircraft is in a hangar while they are moving aircraft around and she said it would be 'too dangerous' and to write back in March 2022... Needless to say, if anyone knows anyone in Yeovilton's staff, please let me know as I am quite a well behaved civilised individual and could likely be in and out in 30 mins TTFN Peter
    26 points
  17. Hi all, This is my Lancaster nose section. Straight out of the box, only the Eduard P/E for the cockpit and dials is used (because they were not included on the decal sheet!) It was a nice build, but the lack of knowledge about WWII bombers (or planes in general) stopped me with putting in extra details. But they are hard to see anyway. I hope you like it! With regards, Rob P.S. the fingerprint (which is probably my thumb) isn't really visible in real life!
    26 points
  18. LSP_K2

    Builders Hall of Fame

    Already considered and dismissed. Singling out "the best" is very subjective, and does a major disservice to those that don't "make the cut". We have everything here from beginners to world class talent, and all are viewed equally as fellow enthusiasts, regardless of perceived skill level.
    25 points
  19. Oh, and nearly forgot, these two test pieces printed on my Phrozen Mini 4K LCD resin printer - the main panel, along with part of the overhead panel: The main panel needs trimming to shape - but very excited at the initial results! Iain
    25 points
  20. Dandiego

    XB-51 Dragon

    Some more progress, and one step back............... I have finished adding rivets to the fuselage so it is time to glue on the engine pods. However..... I got the pods on and they are not even. As you can see one is farther back than the other. Crap! So, I have had to pull one off and move it forward. Can't believe that I got this wrong. Plastic is rather thin and I was worried that I would seriously damage the fuselage. But I was able to remove it with minimal damage. Anyway, here are some overall shots. Masking has been removed from the walkways. A grey panel has been added to the top of the central engine fairing. Overall shot of where I am now. Stay tuned, Dan
    25 points
  21. 24 points
  22. Hey all, …while I continue to chip away at my Little Bird/Killer Egg, I couldn’t resist starting on the next big project; which will be a USCG MH-60T Jayhawk. Floyd Werner of Werners Wings is wrapping up a Jayhawk conversion for the HH-60H. I have the base kit, and am patiently waiting on the conversion. If you missed it, look here- Click me …anyhoo..this will be an inflight display similar to my Pavehawk, but the base will be the open Ocean, either off the coast of the Carolina’s or Mar Pacifica by San Diego, where our Jayhawk crew is plucking a Hornet driver out of the water ..who’s bad day is about to get better. So while I wait for Floyd’s conversion, I thought I’d start on the survivor. I grabbed the perfect raft-rider from Reedoak, and started a few mods- First was the inflated LPU out of Apoxie Clay. More to do here, but you get the idea.. and then a new left arm Then I mocked-up the raft I considered pressing on with this scratched raft. My plan was to wrap the basic shape in Apoxie Clay sheets and build up the shape, but then I stumbled on this 1/35 dingy from Mastercrafters for the German S Boat. Seeing as I am a path of least resistance kinda guy, I decided to change rafts mid stream.. I cut a chunk out of the dinghy to get it the right size. I popped his left arm off to make it easier to paint his face later on- and now I’m cleaning this up and modifying it to be more representative of the current aircrew survival raft super excited to start the water. I needed to get the raft figured out first, because…well- its going in the water. more soon- cheers Pete
    23 points
  23. tomprobert

    Short Sunderland MkII

    Cheers, Rich - and yes I'm a frequent visitor! Howdy folks, I've been busy working on the stabilisers of the big Sunderland of late. As usual, the first job was to scribe on the panel detail: I did contemplate removing and scratch-building the elevators, but there is some really finely moulded rib detail that is actually well worth keeping. I'll need to add the hinges and with a dark wash along the hinge line when painted, I think they will look fine. Each section was cut from the backing sheet and sanded to shape, ensuring the correct depth and thickness. As you can see, the fit was pretty good when test-fitted: Given the fact that the stabilisers are likely to get whacked periodically during the remainder of construction, I wanted them to be nice and sturdy so I have added a plastic card spar, as well as the usual scrap sprue treatment along the leading edges. I've also opted for a brass tube spar system that will fit through the fuselage and offer a really strong set up: The stabilisers were then trimmed carefully and added to the rear of the fuselage - careful consulting of plans ensured they are in the correct position: The careful trimming of the mating surfaces, along with the spar structure ensured only a lick of filler was needed along the fuselage to stabiliser join. She's starting to take shape now: She lacks a bit of stability at the moment, so I better get cracking with the fin... Until next time, Tom
    23 points
  24. tomprobert

    Short Sunderland MkII

    Good evening guys and gals... Another Sunderland update for you, which has mainly involved filling, sanding and scribing. But from a good old fashioned vacform, who'd expect anything less? The rather unsightly joins at the wing roots have been taken care of over the course of this this week. The first and most challenging task was to eliminate the nasty step seen in the previous update where the wing profile didn't match that of the wing-mounted root. My go to filler for these sort of tasks, P38, soon made short work of that and after an initial sanding session, you can see the extent of the work having been done at the forward wing root: I've since spent a fair few hours finetuning the shape and profile of the roots, and also added the obliterated panel detail back. The wing and root profile now match perfectly, and I can confidently say, 'job done': The undersides still need some detailing but the join was fine here, and as you can see I've boxed in the bomb runners ready for further detailing in due course: I've also added the openings for the double-landing light set up on the port wing: It's starting to take shape quite nicely now... Next up is making something resembling Sunderland stabilisers from these: Until next time, Tom
    23 points
  25. Afternoon all, Progress has lowed a little of late due to work: marking exam papers and end of term reports have, sadly, taken priority! Anyway, I've been slowly getting the upper wing surfaces scribed. Dymo tape is used for the more complex curves, with a flexible metal ruler for the rest: I've also, once again, left the wings in their backing sheet for increased rigidity. Fuel tank covers still to be done, but I'm trying to work out the exact shapes of these as I don't think the plans I have are quite right: The next task will be to get the wings cut out, sanded to shape and added to the lower surfaces already attached to the fuselage... Stay tuned! Tom
    23 points
  26. Thanks Ali, means a lot coming from you! Funnily enough, your name came up in discussion over the phone last night with Kerry, you'll probably know why after seeing this update Absolutely....did I say a must have. Clearly I am in awe of them All final finishing is done on the reheat cans and I am happy to say they are a close to perfect and accurate as we can get them. Still another 'tweak on the 'ramps' but we're getting close Inside The cans tuck up in the back like this, Photo Credit Julien (Walkaround coordinator on BM) Here is mine in place, sitting a touch low still Should be closer to this, but easy to fix, a touch more sanding along the top of the opening should tuck it in closer to this, this is a tiny bit high I think, but just placed in here to illustrate And a slightly different angle. Important to note that there is still a titanium edging to go around the edge of the airframe, slightly overlapping the edge of the can. This will fill the gap between the 2 parts and tidy it all up. This illustrates how I still have to 'tuck' that engine up about another 1mm Oh well, back to surface details, this was a nice diversion Cheers Anthony
    23 points
  27. airscale

    1/18 Fairey Firefly VX376

    with the Fury done, the bench cleared, I am looking at whats involved in restarting this one.. I got quite a bit done really, and have the PE already so it would be like a flying start as opposed to starting something from nothing Peter
    23 points
  28. With my topcoat of Mr Surfacer 1200 on (hopefully) before wash and then one day painting. I have been fine tuning the fuse as I make my way back down the left side. Here you can see I 'tweaked' the rear canopy fairing to match photos of RAF ones I have (not sure if they differ to J-79 ones) but I sanded the access panel 'ring' flat and rescribed it and added fasteners. I also rivetted a few areas and defined the fairing shape a bit better as the shape was a bit 'soft' from where I attached the kit and conversion fuselage parts together. I also replaced the big holes and 'divots' that were representing the fasteners around the edge by filling with CA and re-drilling smaller ones to match the rest of the airframe. I also redefined the area where the intake blends into the main structure (has a bit of a curve in it. Just realized i have to replace a raised panel on the top of the intake I added then removed.... Anyhoo, here's the mess I got myself into... And this is where I finished u last night, all now looks consistent with the rest of the airframe structure and a little more accurate. I am almost feeling brave enough to say the left side of the fuselage is done... Cheers Anthony
    23 points
  29. Anyone going? I'll be there, we're bringing 2 planes up from the museum: Newly restored Travel Air 6000 And Stinson Trimotor Say gday if you see me around! Denzil
    22 points
  30. I'm not sure anyone has noticed but I've stalled out on a couple of builds that I had going. In addition to the distraction of fishing season, other family obligations have cut into my free time and I've been finding all sorts of excuses not to work on the F-14A and the Tempest builds. So... I'm gonna start a new project. Something large scale but hopefully not overly-complicated... the Meng Me163B. From reading all of the online builds I could find, I know that there are some probably fit issues that will arise. Right now, I'm ok with doing some putty work but wanted to minimize the need for any scratchbuilding, which I suck at. The kit arrived this afternoon so the mojo building process has officially begun. Can't really dive in since Step 1 is usually the cockpit and the Aires resin cockpit is still on its way. So I decided to take a closer look at the kit and do a little sprue review. The box is pretty small, which I guess is appropriate for the size of the subject... the Komet is a wee aircraft! The majority of the model is molded in dark grey plastic, which suits me just fine. Much better and easier to photograph than the light grey used on the Tamiya Tomcat. Sprue A holds the major fuselage parts. Panel lines are finely recessed and the surface detail is very nicely done. There are some nicely riveted areas as well. Note the separate canopy frame in the lower left. Sprue B has the swept wing components. Surface detailing is minimized since wood was used extensively here. All control surfaces are molded separately, including the flaps which drop from the middle of the wing bottom. Sprue C contains some of the smaller external components including multiple covers for the top of the fuselage. Since the external airframe is comprised of so many parts, I can see how fit issues might arise during this build, especially if the covers and panels are posed shut. Sprue D is molded in black for some reason. The landing gear, which is comprised of jettisonable wheels for take-off, a retractable metal skid for landings and a small tailwheel, are found on this sprue. Back to the dark grey with Sprue E. This one has the cockpit parts and other internal components such as the guns. Both 20mm and 30mm cannons are provided for the wing gun positions. The kit provides two options for the instrument panel. One is a fully detailed instrument panel that can be painted by hand or you can opt for the multi-media approach using the smooth-faced plastic panel, brass instrument panel surfaces and decals for the dials. Sprue F houses the engine components including a large cylindrical fuel tank. There are some very fine... very breakable... parts to represent hydraulic/fuel lines, which will be a challenge to remove from the sprue and clean up. The clear parts are on Sprue G. A couple of issues here. First of all, I do not like having the canopy frame as a separate part. It's a cute idea on paper but hard to execute cleanly... really nowhere to hide that glue seam. Secondly, you can see that the sprue tab on the front of the canopy is bent and taking a small chunk of the canopy with it. I've already sent off an email to Meng to request a new clear sprue. The decals look ok, except I don't like the light grey they used for the instrument panel dials. No biggie since I'll most likely be using a third alternative from Aires. The major markings will be painted using custom masks so I'll only be using the data stencils. Online reviews of this kit showed decals by Cartograph but these appear to be made in-house by Meng. The kit comes with a couple of photoetch frets. The larger one has the flaps, seatbelts and some hatches for those multiple covers on the top of the fuselage. The smaller fret has the instrument panel components that I mentioned before. In addition to the assembly instructions, which are in black and white, Meng provides a nice color sheet for the three markings options. The color call-outs refer to paint lines that I am not familiar with and, strangely, do not use RLM designations either.
    22 points
  31. So today I've mostly been test fitting - and tweaking - the floor and bulkhead sections on the forward fuselage. Only this section will be detailed - the fuselage behind this is curtained off where the operator stations are and nothing would be visible of the final model. Here are the components dry fitted - a few gaps where everything needs strapping together after gluing: And with the cockpit section loosley placed to give an idea of my thinking: These parts are now bonded together with Revell Contacta (the stuff in the bottle with the needle applicator) and strapped up to dry overnight. Should be a *really* strong assembly! Also sanded back and primed the nose - ready for a little minor re-shaping and surface detailing: And primed with Halfords Primer: Blue skies! Iain
    22 points
  32. Hi there, so I finally was able to finish the Lukgraph Hawker Nimrod MK I. And what a job it was… I dropped it halfway through, I learned the hard way that 3D printed parts do not flex, they are hard but brittle so either they break or become unstuck. Oh, and good as they are 3D printed parts have ridges, so even if it does not show directly, under paint and especially metal paint it will show! So take your time in cleaning them up. I like to dabble in scratch building the small parts, especially replacing PE parts and 3D printed parts and stepping up to 1/32 scale made that even more possible. So, I did my best but remember this was my first 1/32 scale kit in decades and a resin biplane at that what was I thinking. The Valeyo metal paint gave a nice finish but even by looking at it, it scratched… I could not get MRP when I needed it so tried the Valeyo but I like MRP a lot more. And it is a wonder I even was able to make the photographs, yesterday evening I dropped a bottle of Tamiya black lacquer paint. It covered everything, tweezers, brushes my worktable and splashed under and around the model but no drop on the model itself. Sometimes you need a bit of luck. Euh cleaning everything up was not fun… It is a great model but complex so it takes time to build but I thoroughly enjoyed it. So here it is, hope you like it.
    21 points
  33. Rod Bettencourt

    Revell BF-110C

    Hello all, This is my attempt at the Revell kit with Quickboost exhaust, Eduard set and HGH Seat belts Paints: model master and AK real colors. This was the first-time using AK paints since I cannot get the model master any longer. With that said, I really enjoyed using the AK and have started to buy more. The decals came from one of the Kagero books. I also riveted the skin. Thanks for looking. Rod
    21 points
  34. Hey there! It's been a while again... beside playing around with useless stuff I'm not going to finish anyway, I managed to make some progress on the Twosair. I have decided to close the forward fuselage before attacking the cockpit as it'll remain easily accessible with the fuselage closed. So out came the automotive body filler and the scribing tools for a first sanding and scribing session. I will have to further modify the foward fuselage as the radome and the are a just behind it are not circular enough in section. Note the "excellent" fit of the Aires avoinics and wheel bays. All of them are between 2 and 2,5mm short; funny enough, the height is OK. Another view at the Aires parts. The corrected intake looks rather good but in this view, the slightly misshapen radome and front fuselage section are obvious. This will be adressed next.
    21 points
  35. mark31

    He-219 Uhu sws

    Trying to build a plane after losing intrests in this subject en more in to cars at the moment. Here the progress off the great sws kit. Building starts with the engines Paints used are tamiya valejo and mrp. I have finnishd first one engine before i started the next one start with engine 2 And almost there with engine nr2 Next up will be the pit Mark
    21 points
  36. Yes those Speys are quite different at the front. A chap on Britmodeller used to work on them and called them ECU Guide Vanes. Here is the first test print, yes they were the CAD images. Take a look at Kerrys skills! Going to be tricky to paint! Thanks Damian, that means a lot from you buddy! Thanks Thanks Kev, I really appreciate that. I need to work fast though before my 32nd P-3 Orion is here, or I might get distracted! LOL, thanks mate. Hey was it a 32nd Mossie you brought? And this is just a quick pic to show the blending of the Tamiya Kit section and the WH conversion as well as correcting the panel lines. Once I have stopped being so fussy on this area I can rivet it. Then onto the cockpit...did I mention I hate doing cockpits? Thanks again gents, your likes and comments mean the world to me!!!!! Cheers Anthony
    21 points
  37. my last built , nice kit for a nice plane , enjoy :
    20 points
  38. Continuing with the assembly of the Aires instrument panel, the major pieces are spray painted RLM 66 Dark Grey. This is also the appropriate time to do some detail painting. I've chosen to highlight the bezels around each instrument primarily in black but also one in yellow and couple in blue. The clear acetate is stuck face-down onto the sticky side of a Post-It and the gauge areas are sprayed in white. When you flip the acetate over, you'll see that the white provides necessary contrast with the black print to create finely detailed instrument faces. And the shiny side of the acetate replicates the glass instrument dials nicely. A quick check of the center instrument cluster to see how the acetate lines up with the painted photoetch. You want to finish the photoetch parts at this stage, including the flat coat, in order to preserve the shiny acetate faces of the dials. The acetate instrument clusters are carefully cut out using scissors and glued onto their corresponding photoetch panels, making sure that all of the the instruments are centered. I used white glue for this step. I haven't glued the photoetch panels to the resin instrument panel since there is some detail painting that I still need to do on that resin piece.
    20 points
  39. More progress has been made on the Dr.1. I built up the Spandau MGs using Master brass barrels and cooling jackets. The assemblies were given a primer coat of Tamiya’s Fine White Primer and then sprayed with Gunze Mr. Metal Dark Iron. The feed and empty cartridge chutes were painted with Alclad II dark aluminum and the ammunition, as before, with Gunze Mr. Metal Polished Brass. The belt itself is, again, a strip of Aviattic’s linen decal. The last steps included a black wash and applying MIG’s gunmetal powder by burnishing it in with an old paintbrush. I also decided I would paint the wing, cabane, landing gear struts, and engine cowling in their red colour. I mixed the red from Tamiya’s lacquer spray TS-8 Italian Red and TS-11 Maroon. I initially used Tamiya’s acrylic paint in the recommended ratios from the Dr.1 painting guide supplied in the WnWs instructions included in the Baron’s Albatross kits but didn’t care for the way they sprayed or covered. So it was back to my “never have failed me yet” Tamiya spray lacquers. The wings were also started. First a coat of Tamiya’s white primer and then a top coat of Tamiya’s TS-7 Racing White. It’s a beautiful creamy white and works perfectly as a base for Aviattic’s linen effect decals and it lays down wonderfully smooth and glossy. For those of us that don’t have access to MRP paints it’s a great alternative. Once completely dry i started applying Aviattic’s decals to the wing bottoms first. I constantly worked the water out from under the decals, first with a large paint brush, and then a moisten Q-Tip. In areas where the decals had to conform over the wing strut attachment points and the scalloped trailing edges I used Solvaset decal softener. A couple of small spots showed signs of slivering but poking the decal with the point of a new #11 blade and more Solvaset solved the problem. I found you have to careful not to work the decals too hard otherwise you can damage the opaqueness of the decal especially once the softener has started to do it’s thing. Nonetheless the finished product looks terrific. The lower wing spar was done with my diminishing supply of red oak decal film. Cheers, Wolf
    20 points
  40. Thanks all for the kind encouragement! I hit this stuff with a gloss coat..a few placards and oil wash. The wash evens everything out a bunch. Flat coat next- first aid kit is from Live Resin. Red Cross decal from Werner Wings.. Fire extinguisher from the H-60 kit- cheers for now P
    20 points
  41. Some more progress with the tail fillet now detailed and completed I've found that with this all now now in place the fuselage halves align quite nicely now. Turning my attention to the cockpit I started with the pilots seat which is much like most of this kit having very soft detail. After studying pictures I decided a much better alternative would be to modify a Barracudacast P-51 seat whichooks a whole lot better. I added some piping detail to the headrest and oxygen hose which appears to go through the canvas covering behind the pilot. So a picture with the kit seat installed And with the modified resin seat in place So far so good and next up is the instrument panel. Regards. Andy
    20 points
  42. i think i am ready to start the decaling process, here is a general look of how it looks at this moment i tested some of the decals on one side of the tail, and they look great, and added the two probes on the tail fin the cockpit starts to look bussy, seats will go in at the last moment
    20 points
  43. Thank you for those great reference photos, Reserve_22! I'll fix that lever on the instrument panel. I'll probably leave that wiring on the port side alone... I'm assuming that a little variation there would be quite natural. And a very nice model too! It's been an eventful week for our family. And not in the positive sense. Loss is never easy but you just try to pick up the pieces as best you can and move forward. Because of all of things going on, modeling time has understandably been cut short but I did manage to do a little work on the Komet when small windows of opportunity opened. This is my first attempt at fashioning harnesses using the buckle hardware from the Aires cockpit set and strips of foil cut from a wine bottle. After the seatbelts were completed, I started painting the cockpit components. Here's the painted seat placed in the cockpit. I brush painted the straps and due to the paint not being cooperative, I lost some of the stitch detail that I had impressed upon the belts. I thought it would look better if I painted the belts before mounting using an airbrush so I gave it another go. The stitch detail was from an old RB Productions cockpit set. The PE sprue has a corner that was fashioned like a mini-rivet wheel and when pressed into the foil, a small row of holes is formed to replicate a row of stitches. Luckily, I had save that little tool. The cockpit sidewalls have been painted. Here is a look at the painted cockpit without the seat in place. The overall cockpit was painted RLM 66 Dark Grey (Mr Hobby Aqueous). To impart some contrast, the fuel tanks, which form the walls of the cockpit tub, were painted in Tamiya Nato Black. After painting, the cockpit was weathered slightly by dry-brushing around the edges and some dry pastels along the floor. The seat is in the process of being chipped. Once that is done, I'll mount the seat belts. That's all for now!
    19 points
  44. More decals, more decals, and more decals, The streaked linen decals are from Aviattic. The fuselage crosses are the kit supplied decals. I’m quite impressed with the kit decals. They lay down extremely well and have minimal carrier film so two thumbs up to Meng. The cowl fasteners on the dark green metal parts that were moulded on were removed and replaced with Taurus Models Fokker Cowl Fasteners. They are two part fasteners and saying they are tiny is an understatement. However they are a big improvement over the moulded on ones as they sit proud of the kit panels and add a wonderful level of detail. There’s a lot more of them to add. Cheers, Wolf
    19 points
  45. Thanks all! appreciate the kind words! Just about ready to close-up the killer-egg fuselage. A few fit issues from the aftermarket bulkhead that took some head scratching to resolve, but all good- a few projects on the bench at once! cheers P
    19 points
  46. Photo taken in direct sunlight :
    19 points
  47. Hello guys! i am starting a new project ; another me 109 g6 with some extras.. i haven't decide the paint scheme yet, i am still looking for some interesting G6 profile i will use in addition: eduard brassin engine eduard brassin cockpit eduard g6 wheels hgw seatbelts painted insignia master brass mg 131 thanks for watching! m and here is the engine so far the final lines cables and hoses will be done after the engine is installed on the fuselage . have cut off the machine gun barrels and i will replace them with the brass-ones from Master at this point i have decided i wanted the engine to be fully exposed , so i cut off the upper cowling of the fuselage completely.. then i realized that the front end of the engine doesn,t meet the front end of the fuselage as it suppose to do in real aircraft (am i right?.. i have to figure out how i am going to fix this now...
    19 points
  48. Thanks Bill! I appreciate the comments! I seriously considered picking up either the Alley Cat or HPH resin canopy replacements but tried to simplify the build as much as possible. I'm going to give the kit canopy a go. Thanks Iain! Great encouragement on the kit canopy... hope I can succeed as well. Gluing the wings to the fuselage halves first seems to be an excellent idea and I'll be considering going that route myself. Thanks Gaz! Since I'll be doing a full camo version, the wooden wings will pretty much be covered with paint. I may establish a brown/tan coat on the upper wing roots as a base for some hairspray chipping. So far, so good, Ernest. Just a few hiccups so far but nothing serious. Thanks Jim! I appreciate the comments and hope that I can knock a few birds down with this one build, including a decent paint/weathering finish. Seems to be working so far! A short trip to LA tomorrow but I should be back in a few days with another update. Thanks Matt! I like finishing projects and am committed to finishing the F-14A and Tempest builds but I was having a hard time finding motivation with those builds for some reason. Starting this third project seems to be helping. Thank you Kent! Like I mentioned before, I'm going to try the kit canopy but it is good to know that I have recourse if I don't get acceptable results. Thanks Troy! Glad you got to whack the bass in Wisconsin! I've got two bass trips in the span of six days lined up towards the end of August so no need to pity little ole John here. I even picked up a new rod/reel combo to play with... Megabass Levante Braillist rod paired with a Daiwa Zillion SV TW (Japan Domestic Market version)! The first thing I did with this build was to cut the fuselage and wing components off their sprues and attempt a dry-fit. That didn't really work out since there are some internal components that need to be in place for the fuselage and wing parts to come together correctly. So I'll have to wait on that. First mishap of the build when I was freeing the wings... didn't see an intermediate sprue between the wing and the whip antenna. Gonna replace the tip with wire anyway so no big deal. The wing cannon covers will be shut so I glued them in. Decent fit but I'll need to do some minor fill work. Here is the kit canopy resting on the frame. Fit is very good but you can see the small divot at the front edge. Meng has already replied to my email and have notified me that a new clear sprue is on the way. Great customer service! The canopy is very clear. What looks to be distortion is just some sloppy fingerprints.
    19 points
  49. This one sat on the shelf of doom for two years. Took it out this week and finished it. Don
    19 points
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