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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/01/2020 in all areas

  1. 47 points
    1/32 Revell kit HGW wet transfers Eduard Look instrument panel, mask Barracuda wheels Eagle Cals #138 All colours MRP
  2. 40 points
    CZPetrP

    1/32 P-47D-40RA Hasegawa

    P-47D-40RA, Big Stud Coll. Robert Baseler, 325th FG kit: Hasegawa engine: Quickboost cockpit: Aires wheel Bay: Aires wheel: Barracuda studio stencils: HGW Decals: Cartograf Masks: home made paint: Alclad II, Gunze C Photo: my good frend Miloslav(thank you)
  3. 40 points
    Here it is, finally i finished this kit, so far the best HH-60G kit in the market, figures are from Live Resin
  4. 39 points
    Hey, after building several WWII birds, i finished my third A-6 Intruder.... I just used the Eduard Interior and the AOA decals for the VA-75 from the desert storm period. All colors used are from Vallejo.... I hope you like her....
  5. 38 points
    1/32 Hasegawa CMK wheel bay, cockpit Painting mask & decals by Z.Slavík Wheels & instrument panel Eduard All colours Mr.Paint/MRP
  6. 38 points
    miketippingmodels

    1/32 Trumpeter A7- Corsair

    1/32 A7- Corsair finished build complete, I used the verlinden navy carrier tractor, Reedoak’s figures and Eduard MK 84 bombs, along with resin electronics bays and wheel wheels, it’s a pain to build, but over come it and it’s a nice model, painted with MRP paints, this isn’t it’s true base she will join the F-14 Tomcat and F-4 on the carrier deck I built for a collector in London enjoy.
  7. 36 points
    afternoon all ..that is a superb idea - I did look at doing it with my Spitfire and could only find one place in Canada that did small run and it was very expensive. I will look again though and if anyone has any ideas please let me know ..bit more done this weekend.. ..the First Aid kit and gunsight pad were made from milliput and lead wire, with brass for the straps (as they are held taught and need to loom like it..) ..I am not good at organic things like this.. ..painted up and although not great, I think they will have to do.. ..then moved on to the side and upper windows - all the catches & latches were prepared and two tiny pins added so I can pin one to the other at the right angle.. it has been a fraught day as I HATE working with transparencies - the knife edge of a terminal ****-up being so easy to do just frays my nerves.. ..I had left the protective film on so it was fairly straightforward to prep them and paint them.. ..also weathered a bit by rubbing wire wool and scuffing them a bit.. ..and with the film removed - there is a flaw in the top canopy where it didn't like bending to shape that has only been seen now the covers are off, but it just looks like a small crack so I am going to have to live with it.. ..and pinned together.. ..a few more bits need adding like hinges and some rubbing pads, but this is pretty much done so a quick dry fit.. ..the First Aid kit looks ok I guess.. that's it for now.. TTFN Peter
  8. 35 points
    X15

    Lifting body M2F1 scratch build

    Hello everybody, Really happy to share with you my last build, the M2F1 lifting body. Special thanks to my friend Seb who work on the project for the 3D printind parts. Take care !!! A little history on this amazing airplane that will give birth to the Space Shuttle! The M2-F1 is the precursor of a series of the most incredible devices ever developed from 1963 to 1975 by NASA: the lifting bodies . This concept of Lifting Body begins to be developed in 1950 and more seriously in 1961 during the period of space conquest. The capsules are used only once and they are very expensive. Engineers then think of a concept of reusable device, which will have to be piloted. But to resist re-entry into the atmosphere this machine will have to withstand extremely high temperatures and therefore its shape will have to be very round and of low lift, unlike a conventional device !! Fascinated by this new concept, a Nasa engineer, Dale Reed, who then worked as an aerodynamicist on the X15 program, on the measures of resistance of materials and overheating, decided to embark on the study of this project. He found a lot of skepticism at Nasa and worked with a very small team. He tests at home flying models in paper then in balsa which he throws by hand or makes fly like a kite. The refined design he films his reduced model and will present his film to the boss of Nasa Paul Bikle. He is interested and gives him $ 30,000 and puts the wind tunnel at his disposal for aerodynamic tests! not much to say! Dale Reed will therefore have to convince engineers to work on his concept outside of NASA working hours and find a way to build a device at very low cost and fly it without an engine !! With the $ 30,000 Dale Reed will build the M2-F1 by a glider manufacturer close to Edwards. To make it fly he buys a Pontiac Catalina which he will have boosted by the local garage owner to tow the M2-F1 !! Finally he finds a test pilot fascinated by the project, Milton "Milt" Thompson. Testing of the M2-F1 begins in March 1963 towed by the Pontiac. It will thus make nearly 400 flights proving that the M2-F1 flies and can fly. NASA then loaned a C47 to tow the M2-F1 like a glider. The real tests can then begin and several test pilots will pilot it including C. Yeager. The concept will thus be definitively validated by NASA and will give rise thereafter to the series of M2-F2, M2-F3, HL-10, X24A and X24B, then the series of X-33, X-36, X-38 and finally to the space shuttle! To find out more, I recommend the books by Dale Reed: Wingless Flight and Milt Thompson: Flying without wings. The M2F2 crash with pilot Bruce Peterson will give Hollywood studios the idea of The Six Million Dollar Man serie. X15
  9. 35 points
  10. 34 points
    chrish

    NLLSP- No Longer a Large Scary Project

    Thanks for all the encouragement I've passed another milestone today, clear parts are in, paint touched up, details added...nearly there. I need to add the shredded fabric to the rudder and the rudder trim tab pushrod and that's about it...So while neither model seen here is technically finished or complete, you'll get the idea of where Iv'e been going with this from these images. In this picture I'm testing my ability to get a damged (destroyed) nose cone glazing; The (nearly) final result. Both models still need detail work but these pictures give the feeling I was looking for; The bomber has a fine thread nut CA'd and epoxied to the bottom of the floor with a steel rod threaded in to that and a press fit into the timber as the support. The 109 has a flat bar inserted into the belly with an aluminum rod placed over top to offer it continuity to the bomber Thanks for looking.
  11. 33 points
    March 25/20 I hope this update finds you well. Thank goodness we have our hobby to keep us from going nuts while being stuck indoors. Two more months of this and we might have record for completed models! I’ve got this bird painted now, but before I show that, I was checking to see if the interior of the engine cowling could be seen from the front with the engine installed. The answer is “very little”, but that’s also a little problem, because the interior is full of pin marks and 4 large tabs that hold the cowling together. If you peek inside and hunt around you can find them, so that's good enough for me to eliminate them as much as possible. Sanding off the tabs and filling the sinkholes is hard to do on the thin plastic without damaging it, so I set out to achieve a “good enough” job which also included the Eduard brass PE detail, just in case you can see it too. After paint. I found the inside cowling color to be all over the map from Aluminum to Interior Green, so I picked Aluminum to highlight the added detail. You won't be able to see the slight yellow over spray at the front when the cowling is installed. For the yellow paint I used Tamiya TS-34 Camel Yellow decanted from a rattle can, which is almost the perfect color of most Canadian Harvard Trainers. Like most yellow paint, coverage over a darker base can be problematic, so I painted a white primer coat as shown earlier. Even with the white base, however, I needed at least 5-6 coats of paint to cover everything! Lots of paint fills lots of rivet and panel line detail, so I was quite worried that all this paint would ruin the fine detail that I created earlier. However, everything turned out pretty darn good in the end, as the paint dried and shrunk into this detail after 2-3 days of drying time. Whew! I now think this paint is made for mostly car models, where the focus is on a deep and shiny paint job. I had the same problem with coverage with Tamiya TS-8 Italian Red a few years ago on my P-38L, where I needed a similar number of coats to cover. Tamiya AS series of spray paints are made for aircraft and cover very well, but colors are limited, while the new line of lacquer paints in a bottle do not include Camel Yellow. In any case, the TS-34 still worked very well as shown below. I am also pleased to say that I think I nailed the look of the ribbing on the elevators and rudder, where the rivet detail underneath is still there, but subtle. For the black walkways, I went back to my go-to method of using textured paint out of a spray can, in this case Krylon Fushion “Textured Shimmer”, rather than Rustoleum textured paint. While effective, the Rustoleum paint comes out of the can a bit too rough for scale, so you need to sand it down later. The first step is to mask off the walkways and then COVER EVERYTHING with a kitchen garbage bag, to avoid over spray. What do I mean by over spray? THIS and it’s not for the faint of heart or without lots of practice. After vigorously shaking the can, you spray in sweeping strokes and never directly at the model, which is why it’s all over the place. The goals are even coverage and not too thick or thin. A closer look. Some of this spray is clear, hence the blotchy appearance. After drying for at least 15 minutes, I then sprayed a cover coat of flat black, then removed all masking tape within an hour of spraying. If you leave the masking tape on too long, it may become impossible to remove, because the paint is very hard when dry. With such a high color contrast, I also used the kitchen bag method for the gloss black on the top of the front fuselage area, which was airbrushed. You would think that this should be flat black as well to reduce glare in front of the windscreen, but all my references show that it’s glossy. Note the subtle but very real over spray, which would be nasty on yellow. The results. Note that I haven’t added any details like flaps, aileron control arms or antennae yet due to risk of breakage. The front engine cowling is only dry fit. The walkways turned out just like I hoped with no sanding required. They are slightly rough, but to scale rough, but are also tough to photograph in these high contrast conditions. I will add some pastels to them later to show minor wear at the end of the build, which will highlight them more. The gloss black turned out pretty good as well, which also helps to hide the crude fit of Part D5 to the front fuselage, which is the same demarcation line. Note the brass cowling fitting at the top I added earlier. Other side… And top view. Note that the angled front of the walkways are due to panel lines at the front I added earlier, which is why most walkways are painted this way. Another angle of the ribs on the elevators and rudder. And finally the bottom, where everything is yellow, including the wheel wells and rear flaps. Next up decals and other little bits. I will be using the kit decals that I understand are quite good, but you don’t have much time to move them around much. Thankfully with my second kit to replace the canopy parts, I have a second set of decals just in case I screw up one or six. Cheers, Chuck
  12. 31 points
    Grant_T

    Revell 1/32 Hawker Hunter

    I just needed to finish something after a bit of a break from 1/32 so this is out of the box. The kit is okay, but detail is lacking in some areas and the gear are super flimsy. Not my best work to be honest, but nice to have it done.
  13. 27 points
    Here is my finished 1/32 Tamiya F4U-1 Corsair "Birdcage" as "Relucant Dragon". Beautiful kit and a joy to behold when complete with all of the detail that is built it. Of course, added more! I wasn't able to find any images of the actual aircraft, instead only finding artist interpretations of what it could have looked like. This plane was flown by 1st LT Alonzo Treffer of VMF-213, based in Guadalcanal from what I can find. https://www.aviationillustration.com/hikashop-menu-for-categories-listing/product/7467-13-f4u-1-corsair-buno-17675-no-1-reluctant-dragon-flown-by-1-lt-alonzo-b-treffer https://vmf-213.com/ The men of VMF-213 1. Vector resin cowling 2. Barracuda resin wheels and tires 3. HGW Fabric and photoetch harness 4. Barracuda cockpit stencils 5. Montex Masks and decals 7. HGW Wet Transfer Stencils Paints are a mix of MRP and AK Real Colors, with Tamiya Acrylics thrown in here and there. The build can be found here: The wings are permanently attached, which may prove troublesome later for space and transport. I also wish I had used the closed canopy spine pieces so I could have the canopy closed to prevent dust. 20/20 hindsight!
  14. 27 points
    evening all I trust I find you all well in these difficult times and if anything it gives you a chance to either do some modelling or if not, enjoy the work of others who do I find myself confined to quarters, not through illness, but through trying to stay safe - I am fortunate I can work from home and just do emails and conference calls for my day job rather than sweat it into London.. I think you are right Chuck - I have had a go at better alignment and am now in limits of whats possible so will leave as is now - pics next time So, where were we - elevators... always seem to be the last thing I do, don't know why here is a nice shot of Lopes Hope which shows there is more to them than meets the eye notice the rib tapes, the visible structure underneath, the many eyelet sort of 'polo mint' fixings and the four mounts for the mass balance weights.. ..I started with a brass sheet blank, cut from scaled plans and scribed with all the internal structure (also making most of the cuts for the trim tabs so they can be broken out later) - from there plastic strip was used to bulk it out and coffee stirrer sticks for the ribs. I use these as they are wood and the solartex RC covering sticks well to it.. ..soon both elevators were done top and bottom... there is a double wall where the trim tabs are ..then the bulk of the structural additions were dremelled off and sanded to final profile - once complete the trim tabs were removed.. ..after covering with solartex and wicking CA on the edges, the eyelet things were added - these are tiny brass washers, the bigger ones punched out of litho.. ..these were then covered with the rib tapes again scaled from plans - the tapes are made from foil plumbers tape (like bare metal foil just cheaper) with a riveter run along a straight edge and a scalpel cut along the holes to get pinked edges.. ..they cover all the eyelets well - although in this shot there is still a big panel of tape to go over the trim tab area.. ..a shot of primer show the fabric effect I was after.. ..trim tabs made from litho with the core from the original structure.. ..then the mass balance weights were made from left over resin casting blocks.. ..and shot with MRP super matt black - also added the trim tab actuating rods to elevators & rudder and gave them all a dusting of MIG powders.. ..all the tailfeather surfaces were attached with hinge rods and are now complete.. ..and a last shot in the evening sun so you can see the contrasts... ..thats it for now - more bits and bobs to go including the Drop Tanks that Steve at Model Monkey has kindly enlarged from his 1/32 set and 3D printed in 1/18 for me stay safe everyone and see you next time TTFN Peter
  15. 27 points
    afternoon ladies Thanks Ben - the end is surprisingly near as will be seen Hi there - I got them from 4D Modelshop - I provided my own artwork, if you need that too it would be even more expensive ..so with a few days off, it seems like I have powered through a lot of the 'to do' list.. ...the main job was getting the model on it's undercarriage and getting the gear doors on - I made up the big links the hold them on and spent ages getting it all to line up - hopefully the sit is right.. ..also the tailwheel & doors were added with the retraction links and the aerial loop on the rear fuselage.. ..then the prop and flaps.. ..and it's ready for a quick walk around - the canopy parts are not fitted so are just resting (badly..)... ..any comments on the 'sit' or any of the details if they look off, please don't be shy - say something here. I am aware the P51 is so iconic that it must look bang on to pull it off.. ..I still have to make the elevators, sort the other aerial and make the wing drop tanks (plus light weathering) so still some to go TTFN Peter
  16. 26 points
    LSP_Kevin

    Standing Down

    Howdy folks, It's with no small amount of sadness that I'm posting this today to announce that I'll be stepping down as LSP administrator as soon as I've fulfilled my current set of obligations. The reasons are many and complex, and I won't go in to them here. Suffice it to say that it has been my pleasure to serve the LSP community this past 10 years or so, and that this decision didn't come easily. Staff have been briefed, and a succession plan is being formulated. I'll be around for as long as that process takes to come to fruition, and will probably remain in the background for technical support and looking after the website. As such, there's no fixed date for this, but most of my moderation duties will cease effective immediately. As they say in the classics: goodbye, and thanks for all the fish! Kev
  17. 26 points
    This is 1/32 Hasegawa P-40N-1 flown by Lt.G.L.Walston, , 16th FS 51st FG, Kunming, China 1944. ( Note that the aircraft lacked the national insignia on the top of the left wing.) Base kit is 1/32 Hasegawa P-40M with some after market modifications. Cockpit modified by Eduard PE set. Exhaust stacks and wheels replaced with Eduard resins. Decals are from Eduard P-40N Warhawk kit. Paints :Gunze Sangyo acrylics. Happy modelling
  18. 26 points
    JamesHatch

    Albatros D.Va, 'Stropp'

    Hi all, I managed to get some work done these last weeks, and built this for Japan's World Scale Modeller magazine, as well as a yet-to-be-determined regular title. Not too many photos, but the usual reasons, clauses and NDAs!
  19. 25 points
    LSP_Kevin

    Standing Down

    Thanks for all the generous comments and support, guys. I'll be around for a while longer yet, as I have a few long-standing plans for the website that I need to bring to fruition, and with my load here already becoming lighter, I hope to start working on those things soon. I've also still got a few reviews to do, so look out for those, too! As for modelling, a big part of my decision to step down is the realisation that I haven't finished an aircraft model in over 2 years now, and with my bench time having dwindled to zero, I've been reduced to being a bystander in a hobby I've worked so hard to support. Having found some time to build a Deadpool figure over the January holidays, I was struck by how emotionally satisfying it was to be building something again, and I certainly need that outlet in my life these days. So, once the dust settles, I do indeed hope to be seeing you all again in the WiP forum, but as an ordinary LSP citizen once again. Kev
  20. 24 points
    Hey all- got to sling some paint last few days..I’m pretty happy with the armor plated floor. If you’ve ever watched Inside Combat Rescue on TV, you’ve seen how filthy and nasty these helicopters get downrange..I watched them literally hose down the cabin with a garden hose... cheers Pete
  21. 24 points
    airscale

    1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"

    evening folks thanks for that pic Antonio, I haven't seen it before - interesting it doesn't show the black tail - I assume that came later. Also very little exhaust staining so that will save me trying to do that badly thanks again - great find! Hey Juraj - no the canopy stays as is - i would need to start again and well I just don't want to (plus I only have one set of PE parts which would be destroyed trying to disasseble it.. And as for seeing it, yes if you are at Telford again, it will be there ..so, as I said before it's the bitty stage in trying to get around the airframe in a logical order and get it finished, ..I covered the whole model and sub assemblies in flory wash and wiped down to give some definition to the rivet & panel detail (especially on the painted wings).. I removed the decal stencils and replaced them with rub down ones I had custom made - £60 for an A5 sheet so not cheap, but then a great improvement over the unavoidable decal film on natural aluminium.. ..these gun panels will be weathered & chipped when it's on it's wheels.. ..this vent door was added, the larger rear one will follow when I have finished the landing gear & doors.. ..the cockpit sill was added and the canopy panel that hangs here finished.. ..massive moment - the landing gear legs were fixed with JB Weld - funny story, about an hour after fitting them when the model was in a jig, I walked past it and thought 'I will just check a photo to make sure it's right' - well I looked and I had mounted them the wrong way around with the torque links facing forwards! A mad panic ensued, but as JB Weld takes 5 hours to cure I could just re-do them correctly (Thank God..).. ..the inner gear door hinges were fabricated and added - they are the two black structures on the centre rib at the top of each end.. ..the corresponding lugs were added to the doors.. ..and the doors were hung... I know there is a debate about having these up or down on the ground, but I made them and everything under them so I want to be able to see it - so these are down ..you can also see the retracting link assembly on the right connected to the door and piston, and a cable with fixings on the left which I assume stops them opening too far (?) although they are loose like this in refs I have so maybe not.. ..outer doors next, and as I found I have a load of leave to take from my day job before April 1st, I hope to have it finshed by the end of the month TTFN Peter
  22. 23 points
    mpk

    Kawasaki ki-61-1 Hien "Tony".

    Hey guys. I managed to complete a model. 39th Training Sqn Sgt Maj. Iwao Tabata, Yokushiba air base March 1945. Being a training aircraft I wanted it to be old and tired. Gunze Kawasaki army green upper airframe aluminium lower. Weathering used: pastel chalk, pastels oils, artist oil pencils, artist pencils, Prismy silver pencil, minimal airbrushing used in weathering, no wash was applied. Aerial is stretched spru. My hands could use nothing else. Why is my interior olive green I hear you ask? Back when I began this model I did some research (untrue, he found colour photos by accident. Dale just wants to appear all brainy and smart) and found colour photos of an old Ki-61 with olive, not sand yellow, interiors. Comments criticisms, schisms, all other 'isms' etc appreciated. Hang on, no prisms! Anyway, only took about 3 years.
  23. 23 points
    Hello all and thanks again for the fine comments! Got a good bit of the cockpit done. Construction article here… Had a great time working on this. I’ll say this is the first time I’ve added dust and dirt to a model cockpit. Many photos of these jets show a good bit of dust and dirt and nothing ventured nothing gained so I went for it. Photos exaggerate the effect, mostly because with so much black paint lots of contrast is needed to see details. Hey what’s a tank doing here? Read the article…. Thanks for checking in guys… Cheers, Timmy!
  24. 23 points
    One you won't see every day. Here is my 1:32 scale LEMKITS MiG-9. These kits are very well engineered.
  25. 22 points
    DrDave

    IBG PZL P11c

    OOB apart from the Master barrel guns. Superb kit. great fit. Paints are MRP. This one didn't carry a radio.
  26. 22 points
    Hi, friends! Allow me to present model of the Hero woman-pilot Lidiya Litvyak. That was definitely easy built model. I used Akan paints, and Gunze oils. Many thanks for Iva Honkova and her beatiful reproduction! Regards, Sergey Budyansky.
  27. 22 points
    Hello everybody, New project start: I would like to show you the model I am working on in my free time at home. This is a model PZL P.6 from 1931 on my 1/32 "racing" scale. The model is to complement the racing collection that I have been creating for several years, the collection of aircraft from National Air Races racing for the Pulitzer award. These spectacular races took place cyclically before the war in Cleveland, Ohio. Poles and their machines presented themselves twice in these races. The first was Capt. Bolesław Orliński on PZL P.6 aircraft in 1931 and a year later Capt. Jerzy Kossowski on the PZL P.11 aircraft (whose model, also from scratch, I have already made) The PZL P.6 aircraft was a prototype fighter plane developed in 1930 at PZL (PeZetL) of the Polish Aviation Works. The designer of this modern and ground-breaking construction, for those times, was the outstanding engineer Zygmunt Puławski. PZL P.6 was a further development of the PZL P.1 aircraft concept developed by Puławski for a liquid-cooled in-line engine. In P.6, innovative technical solutions were used, such as the "Polish wing" developed by Puławski, a scissor chassis and a very modern and light, half-shell hull structure. The prototype was a demonstration and experimental machine, it had no weaponry. At the end of 1930, the aircraft was presented at the International Aviation Salon in Paris, where it was recognized by the industry press as the most modern fighter aircraft in the world. In this archival film you can see P.6 and Orliński in action (minute 11:47) I derive knowledge about this aircraft mainly from monograph PZL P.7 no. 72 AJ Press publishers, but I also support materials for P.11 and P.24, and what I can get from the Internet. The main drawings are enlarged from 1/48 to 1/32 scale and I build the whole model based on them. The hull for forming the hull was made of MDF board, on which I then formed hot (vacu method) half of the hull: Because there is no commercially available Gnome-Rhone Jupiter VI model in 1/32 scale, so I made it myself: Work on the model is more advanced, so next pictures I will show you soon. Thank you for your attention, best regards Marcin
  28. 22 points
    March 13/20 Well I don't know what it's like where you live, but here in Calgary the C-Virus hysteria is at a peak. Businesses are closed and we are told to stay home and hide under our beds until further notice. Further, the weather has turned cold again, so what's a guy to do? How about Model?! With every sport shut down, I can't think of a better hobby when you're stuck indoors, can you? First Paint, which is my favorite part of modeling. A first coat of paint will tell you how well you assembled and glued the plastic together, which can sometimes be disappointing. That's why I go to the effort of using a dark wash during assembly, which reveals flaws before they are painted and are easier to fix. Luckily, I found only a couple of new ones, which I have already repaired. Before painting, it was time to glue in the extensive Eduard PE brass rear flaps, which I had left off to avoid damaging the delicate detail within. The fit is excellent, but I still had to sand off some of the brass at the rear to ensure a clean rear edge. If you build this kit, I highly recommend the Eduard "BIG Ed" kit, which has lots of detail missing on the kit parts. I usually use Tamiya Gloss Black lacquer as a first coat rather than a true primer, but for this yellow bird I'm using Gloss White instead (TS-26 Pure White from a rattle can). This should make painting the yellow easier and with less paint. Since it's just an undercoat, I have sprayed it on relatively thin to retain detail, hence the blotchy appearance. One great thing about this model is that both the wheel wells and flaps are painted the same yellow as the rest of the aircraft, which makes painting so much easier. That probably wasn't the original paint scheme, but it is now, which is all that matters. One of the flaws found after paint are the ridges along the rear of the wing, which are due to sink marks around the flap detail underneath. These were totally invisible before, but thankfully easy to sand off and remove. I will let this paint dry for two full days, then lightly sand off crap and other imperfections, followed by 2 coats of yellow, which will be Tamiya TS-34 Camel Yellow, which is the perfect shade of yellow with an orange tinge found on these trainers. The "Camel" it turns out, is the same yellow as found on Camel cigarette packages. Who knew!? Cheers- and wash your hands! Chuck
  29. 22 points
    Some more work. The hardest part of the conversion to get right was going to be the two cannon ports, one either side of the nose. I found a good clear shot of the port to enable me to trace around it using the Sillhouette Studio software. The trace line is in red. I refined the shape and sized it up for the model. The shape was then cut using Oramask 810, and applied to some thick plastic card. I drilled and filed the shape out. I extended some panel lines to enable me to position the ports correctly on either side of the nose. I then used the inner part of the mask to assist with sizing and position of each port. Using my JLC razor saw, I cut the four sides of the part out. This looks a bit brutal, but it is a very quick and easy way to get accurate and straight lines through some thick plastic over curved surfaces. The extra cut lengths are easily filled. The new part was laid into position to check for fit. Some plastic tube cut at a fine angle and then bent to assist the port to follow the curve of the fuselage. Part of the Zacto nose cone had to be ground away to allow the combined port to be shoehorned into position. I allowed the front of each port to be slightly proud of the fuselage to allow me to sand it to shape. Filled and sanded. The NACA vent that I filled earlier has been exposed, behind the port. I used some 2 part epoxy filler to blend the part together by packing it into the front of the port and then using a cotton bud moistened with Mr thinner to smooth it in.
  30. 22 points
  31. 21 points
    So rather quicker than expected we have found ourselves in self isolation after my step daughter was sent home from school on Tuesday afternoon, annoyingly the girls had been at their Dads since Saturday when the syptoms apparently first started but where ignored and the first we knew of it was from the school, They normaly return back to us on Tuesday after school anyway but.......... Some people are really irresponsible but hey, i'll leave that one there. So I had no other option than to start a new build and decided on the Wingnut's Fokker D.VII, I missed out on the original D.VIIF boxing so I'm using the Early Fokker boxing, downloaded the D.VIIF insruction book from Wingnut Wings and purchased the extra BMW engine sprue and Fighting Fokkers F decal sheet. I've also got Taurus models engine detail set, HGW belts, Master barrels and Aviattic decals to add to the build. Not to much to show yet but spent yesterday preparing cockpit parts for paint, today I cocentrated on the wing assemblies and have them undercoated, pre shaded and glossed ready for decal application. Enjoying the chance to really get some serios modelling time in, I know its an awful situation we are all in but time to stay indoors and make the most of this fantastic hobby. Stay safe everyone and happy modelling. Regards. Andy
  32. 21 points
    John1

    Forgotten War Mustang - F-51D in Korea

    Looking for something a bit different than just another ETO P-51D, I opted to build a Korean War era F-51D. Differences between a WW2 spec Mustang and a Korean War version varied from aircraft to aircraft but in general - "cuffless" Hamiliton Standard props, additional radio equipment aft of the pilot's seat, provisions for 6 5" HVAR rockets on underwing stub fittings and (in some but not all cases), a locked down tailwheel. From a painting standpoint, I learned that many of these Mustangs were actually painted Matt Aluminum during refurbishment, instead of being left in natural metal. At the same time, many had the cockpits painted black. One thing that attracted me to the F-51D was that unlike in Europe where these aircraft were cutting edge thoroughbreds, in Korea, they were expendable "bomb-trucks" that often flew 4-5 times/day. As such, most of these Mustangs were absolutely filthy. Here are a couple of examples of the real thing, I used these as guides for my weathering: Below, note the scratched "USAF" which was from foot traffic during the rushed re-arming process. And one of the the cockpit. This is an unrestored F-51D, note the heavy weathering and patchy black finish. Here is the finished model. It's the Tamiya P-51D/K version. Aftermarket bits include Barracuda resin wheels and cockpit bits, Quickboost resin propeller blades, Brian Fawcett resin HVAR launchers, donated Tamiya HVAR's and for decals, Barracuda's awesome cockpit placard set, Print To Scale's F-51D set and Fundekals P-51D stencils. All the radio gear in the back and many small odds and ends were scratchbuilt. d And the finished kit: And for those that are curious about my "colorful" napalm tanks, I got my inspiration from this: Thanks for looking!
  33. 21 points
    themongoose

    F-100D Thunderbirds SIX

    My latest Thunderbird in the series comes to you loaded down with aftermarket goodies. I had picked up quite a bit over time for it so decided I would have to do it wheels down. yes I know, an oddity for me. Then as I was building it and looking at reference pictures I only saw 2 with drop tanks on it. Hey there's an idea, if I am going to break up the Thunderbird graphic on the bottom let's load it up. The perfect theme came to mind, HEADING HOME. Trumpeter shows this smoke system on the box art but there's nothing in the box haha. So I made it up with piano wire and shrink tubing...just suttle heat affects on the exhaust. Most pics of the Thunderbirds show this area very shiny. The museum birds have been polished to death, I avoided doing those :-) Super fun build with lots of help from the forum. Check out my WIP for details. Thanks so much everyone!
  34. 21 points
    baffozac

    IMAM Ro43 1/32 scratch-built

    Finished ! A big thank you to my French friends for their help. And another big thank you to you, for your friendly comments!
  35. 21 points
    Phoenixs

    Zeke Bakusen: A6M2 Tamiya 1/32

    After the hard work to complete the Su-25 that I presented to you a few days ago here is my new project: a nice Tamiya kit to make me happy with the world of injected plastic ... It is a bit that study of the subject in question, it is one of the specimens used for the first suicide attackers described in this famous photo taken on 25 October 44 in Mabalacat in the Philippines: The Zeke in the foreground with the code 02-888 should have been piloted by Lieutenant Yukio Seki and portrays him the moment before taking off for his last mission which will end with his sacrifice and the sinking of the escort aircraft carrier st. Lo (CVE-63) The Photos of the complete model: Finally the "vintage" photo directly from 1944 ... Thanks everyone for the advice. Until next time.
  36. 20 points
    Hi Guys I haven't posted much lately because my camera is busted. For this one I managed to do some decent photo's with my phone, so here we go Hasegawa's (in a Revell box) Messerschmitt Bf109G-4 flown by Jan Gerthofer in 13(Slow)/JG52. These days I'm on a 'do one from every nation that participated in WWII' trip so this is Slovakia. Hungary and Denmark is in progress. Unusual camo on the cowl looks like a replacement, but as many (perhaps all) from that unit used it, I guess it's in purpose. The reason is however unknown to me. All markings except stencils painted on. BTW - yes, the bar behind the cross is supposed to sit so high - seen on pictures, but dont know why https://imgur.com/KplHrME
  37. 20 points
    red Dog

    1/24 Airfix MkVb to LF MkIX

    Final report of a completed long haul conversion from a 1/24 Airfix Spitfire MkVb to a late LF MkIX Started this one last July so about 8 months worth of bench time. This one really put my mojo to test and I'm glad it's over !! I guess I now understand why we don't see too many late Mk Spitfires in 1/24 but in the best tradition, I am now clearing Airfix (or anyone else) to release one ... Full WIP is in the in progress forum Thank you all LSpers for the support while building. I doubt this would have been completed without the forum
  38. 20 points
    Afternoon all It's been a while since I've done anything on this long-term build, but decided to get it back out for a bit of TLC and decided to jump straight back in and tackle something that I'd been needing to correct... When building the fuselage what seems like years ago I had somehow managed to make the extreme rear fuselage (where the rear observation glazing mates) completely the wrong shape. In my example, you can see I've made the fuselage sides curved, and the upper and lower fuselage too curved as well: IMG_1859 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr ...when compared to the real thing - taken at the Charlwood museum - which shows flat sides and top: Tail Glazing by Thomas Probert, on Flickr So, using some better plans as well as the good old Mk1 eyeball, I made a new shape for the rear fuselage: IMG_1861 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr ...which when offered up already improves the look: IMG_1860 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr The difference has now been built up with filler, and slowly a much better-shaped rear fuselage is beginning to emerge: IMG_1868 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr Still plenty of shaping and blending to do, but I'm much happier with this now. I've also began inserting the framing into the cockpit as these will be needed to support the glazing when the time comes: IMG_1867 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr I'm enjoying being back on this - let's see how long the motivation lasts! All the best, Tom
  39. 20 points
    chrish

    NLLSP- No Longer a Large Scary Project

    Thank you! I've got the tail feathers painted and weathered. Figured it was time to snap the thing together and recharge my mojo seeing it as a aircraft and not a collection of various colored of green parts. Thanks for looking
  40. 20 points
    March 8/20 Well I'm back from a bit of a break cruising the Caribbean in the Caribbean Princess, sister ship to the Grand Princess (California) and Diamond Princess (Japan) that have had the so-called COVID-19 virus outbreaks. My wife and I had a great time, but the thought of being stuck in quarantine makes me shudder, because it could just as easily been us. No more cruising for me until the world gets this bug under control. Scary times and yes I know the mortality rate is "only" about 3%. I just as soon not take the chance, especially at my ripe age of 65! A tiny update. I've also be procrastinating on just how to do this, now that the wings are assembled. Before assembly, this would have been super easy, so I had to think of a different approach. Here is what the fuel caps look like on each wing, which are perfectly flush. While some Texan/Harvards have them that way, they have been modified and most are as shown by Max above. First step is to cut a nice and smooth hole in the wing. To do this, I used progressively larger drill bits, then finished off the last third with circular files to keep the hole symetrical and smooth. I then cut some sprue rod to fit, drilling a hole in the top so that I had something to grab onto when inserted the rod in place. The rod was carefully measured, then glued into place at the bottom and top of the rod, leaving a significant depression in the wing, just like the real deal. I then fashioned a fuel cap out of a few bits of spare PE brass. These are only dry fit, because I will paint them red and glue them later at the end of painting. The other side, to show the depression in the wing. Pretty good- and much better than before. That's it for now, but I really must get going on this build before the weather starts to turn nice. Once it does, my modeling Mojo goes into almost complete hibernation, which will drag this build over the summer. Cheers, Chuck
  41. 20 points
    red baron

    P 51 A HOBBYCRAFT

    mfy first 2020 kitb , enjoy :
  42. 20 points
    chrish

    NLLSP- No Longer a Large Scary Project

    Thanks for looking and the encouragement I've begun spraying some paint, it's got 3 shades of olive drab on the top of the wing and 2 shades of gray on the bottom. I shot gloss black on the de-ice boot then punched tape discs to make masked spots (to look like patches on the boot) and then shot rubber black. The gloss black spots almost disappeared but can be seen in the right light, then the damage areas were scrubbed to get the aluminum color showing through. I made my own mask with circle cutter and tape for the star. Thank you for looking
  43. 19 points
    Renegade

    1/32 Mirage F.1C

    Hi guys, Very strange too almost never be at home, and now with the current situation and a lockdown enforced, I have to keep myself busy. A friend of mine wanted to test different printing styles on his home 3D printer a while ago, and asked me for a challenge. So I said a 1/32 Mirage F.1C would be nice, thinking he would not be able to pull it off...lol. Well, he delivered a 1/32 F.1C as best a basic 3D printer can. Oh boy, it's rough, it'll make a blind man cry, but I like a challenge. Even more when it's an aircraft I have a great passion for. A ton of filler and layers of primer later, Started scribing panel lines, and she's starting to look the part https://i.imgur.com/1p0pX
  44. 19 points
    Hi guys, Just want to highlight the Beaufighter that I started a few months ago. It has recently been uploaded to largescaleplanes.com. I see a lot of Beaufighters on the forums and its great to be a part of the club. https://www.largescaleplanes.com/articles/article.php?aid=3423 Wishing you all the best in this time of isolation, Suresh
  45. 19 points
    shark64

    Westland Wessex helicopter.

  46. 19 points
    Greif8

    RoG He 219 A0/R6

    I took a few shots of a build I did for someone who gave me the kit to build for him then failed to show to pick it up, or even answer attempts to contact him; hopefully he is ok. If I end up having to keep this beast permanently I will have to figure out where to put it as it is too big for any of the glass cases I own. The person who sent me the kit to build included the Barracuda cowls and wheels, some resin barrels to replace the kit ones, as well as some HGW seatbelts. I scratch built a FuG 212 antenna array and the hood on the radar used by the radio/radar. I also put a large lump of lead in the nose piece to keep the aircraft from being a tail sitter. I did not make any corrections as the guy did not want them - and I probably would not have done them had I built this for myself - as the Uhu looks just fine to me. I also kept weathering to a minimum. My grandfather's youngest brother served as a radio/radar operator on night fighters and one of the things he told me in our many conversations when he was alive was that night fighters did not undergo a great deal of wear and tear because they operated from established airbases for the most part and were very well maintained - especially the "owls" as there were usually only a few available and those were invariably flown by ace crews. He also told me they flew far fewer missions than day fighters which also cut down on wear. As an aside, talking with my great-uncle sparked enough interest in me that I did my master's thesis on the development of Germany's nighttime air defense and night fighter interception techniques. I wonder what he would have said about the model below!
  47. 18 points
    Here’s how I made the inspection tags on the fire extinguishers- first; grab some thin, rigid cellophane- the kind from a pack of cigarettes is perfect, but I don’t smoke..but I found some on a package of paint brushes. Cut a chunk off- next, paint the backside with Tamiya buff. Paint only one side- Once the paint dries, flip it over. Apply decals from the spares box. The brass grommets are dry transfers from Archer- they rock! And I use them for all kinds of stuff. When the decals are dry, flat coat them- use a a new blade a a straight edge to cut them into a tag shape. I used a section of stretched sprue to simulate the zip tie- super easy.. cheers Pete
  48. 18 points
    Warbird

    F-102 Revell/Monogram 1/48

    Hi Guys, This is my Revell/Monogram F-102. Engraved, Aires cockpit and wheel bays (fit is terrible), Reskit wheels, Master pitot, Fündekals. A lot of work to make it look descent. This plane was based in Langley during the late 50'. Cheers Tristan [/url] [/url] [/url] [/url] [/url]
  49. 18 points
    Phartycr0c

    HPH FW 189 Eagle Owl.

    Having started the 189 following the Wessex issue, My good lady encouraged me to have a go at rebuilding said beast as "she liked it and thought it was really beautiful colours" so i decided to have a go. Phone images to hide the issues.......... So with that now done, I return my attention to the UHU ............ Cleanup of parts......... who wants to see cleanup of parts.? to be continued.
  50. 18 points
    I had the camera out today for other things and decided today is a good a day as any to take a couple of update shots. I'm not as far along as I would have liked but I had the spare time. I'm almost finished the top. I just have to finish the edging and then the top will be considered done. I test fitted the bridge to the body to make sure I could. There are definitely going to be fitting issues but nothing some super glue won't take care of. Looks like I'll also have to add some more details once the body has been glued together to help tie in the areas better. This adds to the ever compounding issue of painting first or not (first world problems....) Anyways, that's all the pics I took but thanks for looking in. Si
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