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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/18/2019 in all areas

  1. 27 points
    Finally back again at the bench after 4 months. in past 2 weeks I was able to work on engines. I really like details provided in the kit, however I went extra mile to make the front part which will be visible as detailed as possible main parts glued together exhausts painted decent wash applied final results, quite happy wit the outcome thanks for looking jan
  2. 25 points
    Jose Pedro

    1/32 Special Hobby T-2 Buckeye

    Hello! Here are some pics of model that was built last year, but was waiting for the right moment to come out. This is the well known Special Hobby kit, with Vallejo Model Air Vallejo e Mission Models paints. I want to leave a warm Thank You to a fellow Portuguese modeller - Paulo Lopes, for the inspiration provided by his work on this kit, which got me through - Obrigado! Here is a link for the detailed construction and painting process of the Buckeye. https://imodeler.com/2019/08/greek-master-special-hobbys-1-32-t-2-buckeye/
  3. 25 points
    hi folks Thanks so much for all your contributions - it's what keeps threads like this alive - we all learn something new about an airframe, and if that happens, I have achieved a purpose in posting I discarded the cushion on the basis the pilot actually sat on a parachute pack which served the same purpose and in some ways I am glad as then the work on shaping the seat bottom can be seen.. I amanged to put myself out of action for a few weeks as I sliced my finger - not modelling but drying up a vegetable slicer - what a dumbo.. it gave me some time to do some design work that was overdue anyway and as I had been messing about with tiny bits of wire trying to do seat belts, I decided to create a small PE fret of seat belt parts, which ultimately grew as I went through the manual into an A4 fret with all sorts of other useful bits including window framing, gunsight parts, templates for the U/C doors and another set of panels that go around the exhausts as I want to try annealing them to get better curvature... ..that was about a weeks work... also renewed my Rhino 3D trial and finalised the mainwheel.. made the gunsight - its some kind of N3 type but not much reference on the net on this particular variant, but I did have a few good Lopes resto shots to base it on.. and I love this shot of the signal pistol - I have the mount in the fuselage wall, but not the pistol or the metal part it mounts to.. - I wasn't going to include it at all as the gun would be too hard for me to design, but had a brainwave that enabled it.. ..and here is the mount.. ..now for the brainwave - it appears 1/18 is the scale of collector soldiers, and a company on the internet does small arms for them so I bought a couple of .357 Magnums for $0.65c each - bit of modification and we have a flare pistol ..I only need the handle.. ..now for some parts that have been bothering me since I started - seat belts... when I did my Spitfire, they were the parts I was least happy with - made with ribbon, they looked a bit duff if you ask me.. after playing with different tapes & ribbon, I tried rolling some lead wire - it worked a treat, but was too narrow, so I cut some lead strips and rolled them out until they were the right size.. the fittings were all PE and it all seemed to work quite well.. ..they were primed, painted & washed & the paint scraped off the metal fittings - here before the hooking latch was added.. ..in place with the cushion, I am much happier with these than the Spit ..the cockpit is nearly ready to close up.. TTFN Peter
  4. 24 points

    Revelamiyastang ...

    Pictures only ... WIP LINK
  5. 23 points
    woohoo - big day -the cockpit is in the airframe ..put together in a jig,, and now a permanent fixture.. ..with the skin bits.. ..lots to do from here, but it's a big milestone for me TTFN Peter
  6. 23 points
    Took some iPhone shots today. The majority of the hydraulic lines are complete for the top of the nose gear well. I’ve added a wire bundle, that several hydraulic tubes will route over, was installed. These tubes required a number of T fittings and check valves to be printed up and pieced together. It’s not an impressive number of tubes installed since my last installment but between fiddly construction and hours of staring at photos to understand where everything connects they consumed that time span. Lastly the torque tube that connects the aft doors to their actuator was installed. There are some hydraulic tubes that will route over this tube necessitating it’s installment now. On to the photos... More soon.... Thanks for checking in! Timmy!
  7. 22 points

    French Navy Seafire XV

    Hi all, Here my last built, a French Navy Seafire XV. I used Revell Spitfire MkIX and AA resin conversion. It's not an easy built but it's the only way to have a Seafire XV. I used Barracuda cockpit, seat and acces door : wonderful resin!!! I used Tamyia and Gunze for Sky and Gunze and M Paint for extra dark sea grey. Marking are painted (tanks Maketar) except for anchors which came from old decals. I hope you will like it! See you soon for a new built!
  8. 22 points

    1/32 Sukhoi Su-25UBK Frogfoot

    Dear LSP team, sharing photos of a completed 1/32 Sukhoi Su-25UBK Frogfoot from Trumpeter. The model is completed in a “what if” (fictional) scheme inspired by another Czech Air Force Su-25K Frogfoot number 9013 that sported the famous scheme during the 1990’s. The kit is built straight from the box with the following aftermarket items: Eduard Interior set, Quickboost Auxiliary Air Scoops. Paints used: Vallejo Model Air, Vallejo Model, Ammo of Mig, Mission Models. Weathering and washes: Ammo of MiG Washes, AK Interactive Washes, Oil Brusher by Ammo of MiG. Decals: National Insignia - Propagteam and Eduard, Stencils - from the kit, The Frog and other bits were self made custom decals printed on laser printer.
  9. 22 points
    Jennings Heilig

    Please spare a thought...

    Wow. Just got to Kalamazoo. I’d never have believed it, but she’s awake and lucid and off the vasopressor drip. Her lactic acid was >20 yesterday this time, which is why I decided I needed to get on a plane NOW. About an hour ago that was down to 3.2. Her RN and I were saying neither of us has ever seen anyone bounce back from a lactic acid of >20 before. Still a long way to go, but she said just now she wants to live a while longer. Energizer bunny, I’m telling ya. To have come from Rutherford County, NC white trash dirt farmers, she’s a pretty freaking amazing lady. My mom started, built, and ran her own independent financial planning firm after a long career as a credit union manager. She “retired” five days after her 77th birthday, and after she “retired” she started two non-profits to do backpack lunches for the needy school kids in town, and another called Bridges Out of Poverty. She’s organized a youth theater production that’s going on its third year, and has a life of its own now. She knows just about everybody in a three county radius, and everybody loves Nancy. Even when she comes to them with her hand out to get money and donations for her charities. Thanks for all the positive vibes - they help!
  10. 20 points
    August 13/19 A brief update. With summer here it’s hard to find time or the motivation to model, but I have accomplished a few things. First of all, despite my prior comments about spraying this model with semi-gloss lacquer to knock done the shine a bit, I’ve decided to keep it shiny after all. I have many pics of VFC-13 Gloss Black F-5E/N’s and they are all super shiny, even from a distance. The next task which I’ve been dreading is decals. I’m pretty good at decals and have even written a fairly detailed tutorial on this step, but I had many problems with this build. For those interested in that tutorial, it is here: How To Apply Decals Now the decal problems before I even started: 1. Nobody makes decals for VFC-13 Saints F-5’s entirely in red, which are on all of the black Aggressors. The only red decals I could find are for VFC-111 Sundowners, and not all of them are red. 2. The VFC-111 Sundowner decals that available are from the kit or the OOP Two Bobs 32-040 decals. Thanks to “Dragon” (Mike) who sent me some of the red decals he wasn’t using, I had a set of both (thanks again Mike!). However, the Two Bobs decals are a dull red and not bright red as they should be. The kit decals, on the other hand, are very thick and hard to 3. No decals of the US Insignia emblem are made in red- or at least as far as I can tell. So I decided to go with mostly the kit decals when color was important, Two Bobs decals when it didn’t, a set of Profimodeller decals (32-286) for the red star on the tail and the big red and yellow nose number and finally Maketar insignia paint masks to finish the job. This results in a bit of a “Whatif” VFC-111 Gloss Black F-5N that doesn’t exist, but unless you’re an expert on these jets you probably wouldn’t notice. On the tail, the Profimodeller, red star went on easily and the thin decal film blended into the rivet detail with ease. The big red “NAVY” decal; from the kit was quite thick, but the bright red color won the day. The other smaller kit decals nearby were crude and I found that many of them were off register, revealing a white rim around each decal. These were torn off and replaced with Two Bobs decals, even if the red wasn’t very bright. Similar story up front, with the big Profimodeller “01” decal, while the balance were Two Bobs decals. NOTE: The Profimodeller decals come with replacements for the "01" decal, which don't have yellow in the interior of the "0", so use them instead. One very characteristic feature of most F-5’s is the pronounced dashed border around the two “No Step” areas on the wing, especially directly above the landing gear well. With no red decals available, I decided to paint them instead, along with the Maketar paint masks for the two insignias on the intakes and one each for the top and bottom of the wings. This was probably the most involved masking job I’ve ever done, so I sure hope it was worth it! Make sure you keep the masking tape off existing decals or they will likely lift when the tape is removed. BTW, the VFC-111 decal is Two Bobs, because the kit one was terrible, while the "E" is the kit one. I then painted these areas with Model Master “Chrysler Engine” bright red enamel (#2732), which closely matches the “NAVY” red decal. I thinned the paint quite a bit with Mr. Leveling Thinner #400 to make sure that the edge of the tape demarcation lines were sharp, but you can’t load up the first coat too much or you will get paint bleed underneath the tape. Unfortunately this gloss paint takes a long time to dry, so you need to be patient (which I’m not). I was also building the CATM-9M missile for the starboard wingtip and the TCTS pod (AN/ASQ-T50 V2) port side wing, as found in all recent F-5 Navy Aggressors. Detailed pics of these pods can be found in Jake Melampy’s Super Hornet Guide on Pages 165 and 166. Building the CATM-9M missile was easy, using the Zactomodels AIM-9L/M resin replacements, which I always marvel over every time I build one. This missile, along with the other Zactomodels missiles, are the very best resin kits I have ever used on any model- period! The super thin wings, which are surprisingly strong, and the fins that have to be glued on, make painting these details very easy. After using Two Bobs decals, they really look the part: The TCTS pod was another story. Although there are TACTS and ACMI pods out there in 1/32, none of them are for CUBIC pods or TCTS pods and none of them have the much-needed ballasts to add weight to the wingtip to replicate the weight of an AIM-9 missile. After building the beautiful CATM-9 missiles, I needed something that was fairly accurate and higher quality than the resin pods that are available. If any of you resin guys are listening, there’s a huge market for these pods, especially if they are high quality! So what to do? I had a pretty good CUBIC pod made by a friend for my CF-18B model years ago, that has many similar features of what I was looking for. This pod needs 3 ballasts for the F/A-18 wingtip application, while the TCTS pod I need has only two ballasts. Fortunately, this pod was only held on with pins, so I cannibalized it for this build instead! Modifying it heavily, I created something close to what I wanted with the middle ballast removed, but the rear ballast could not be moved forward a bit without harming the pod, so I left it as is. All painted up with more Two Bobs decals (which are really for an ACMI TACTS pod), it looks pretty close to the real deal. The blue band was painted on, since the Two Bobs blue band decals are always too dark. Note that the antenna probes on the head bend backwards slightly like the real deal. Note that both pods have pins for easy insertion into the wingtip launchers- or future models! That’s it for another week or two while I finalize the decal painting and many other small details. Cheers, Chuck
  11. 19 points

    1/24 Airfix F6F-5 Hellcat

    Thanks! I’ve pushed on and I’ve pre shaded and highlighted- it may be a waste of time as the top coat will be so dark, but I’ll build it up in thin layers and see how I go! The engine is only placed on and the wing is just resting - to see what she’ll look like... Guy
  12. 19 points
    Time to take a little break from tubing! Here is the Weapon Main Unit, part of the control of the five stores hard points. It' s a good warm up for the cockpit detailing to come. The main box was printed along with a block of switches and knobs. The clear cover was cut from Evergreen clear 0.010" styrene and scored and folded to it final shape. The upper portion masked and sanded to create the frosted border. Fairly simple paint job, black body, aluminum wire connections, switches and cover latches and dark grey wiring boots. After a coat a Future decals were applied and a little thinned oil paint was used to pick out details and add some grime. Finally a coat 50/50 flat and gloss lacquer to unify the finish and the cover was attached. Plumbing is about half done so that's next.... More soon and thanks for checking in! Timmy!
  13. 19 points

    1/24 Airfix Hellcat

    I’ve had time to put a bit of colour on the cockpit, I think it is almost done but may add a bit of chipping. I think the green is a little green but it’s the mix Tamiya recommend in their mustang kit, if I do another I may use Mr color h58 which looks a better colour. So far the kit is a pleasure to build. There are a few frustrations like the engine core and the fuselage frame behind the cockpit but nothing that can’t be fixed. Cheers. Matt
  14. 18 points
  15. 18 points
    Some additional closeup pictures of the diorama... Thanks for looking... Cheers: Kent
  16. 18 points
    This time the model of a jet plane and so I return to my favorite topic (jets). F / A-18F Super Hornet 'VFA-102 50th Anniversary the model from my old collection. Trumpeter 1:32 scale set, the model is not simple to build. I tried to do the model without strong weathering. Of course, the model is made straight from the box.
  17. 18 points
    This is 1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190 F8 with the markings of "Yellow 14" W.Nr. 584592 from SG2 or SG10 . This F8 was abandoned at Neubiberg Germany in May 1945. Cockpit enhanced by MDC Luftwaffe Instrument dials decals and AML seat. I have used HD F8 propeller and Quickboost Exhaust set. And wheels are from Eagle Parts. Paints: Gunze acrylics and Alclad lacquers. Decals are from my spare box except for custom made "Yellow 14" and "Bar".
  18. 18 points
    Thanks Guy's - So this build is finally coming to an end. A preview shot of the finished diorama. I will be taking more photo's the coming days... Cheers: Kent
  19. 18 points
    red baron

    MB 152 C1

    my last buit, a kit that requires a little patience for assembly enjoy : voila voila
  20. 18 points

    1:18 Hobbyboss AV-8B Harrier

    Thought I would do a dress rehearsal with the components that I have been completing , I'm really happy with the way the intakes have come out.
  21. 18 points
    Hi Blackbetty, The exhaust almost clears the brass tube and as the resin part is quite thick, it requires a small modification to make it fit properly. Hi Jackman, The Zacto intake is an exceptional piece of aftermarket and fits the kit nicely. Here is a pic from the front looking in. There is a small amount of sanding required to make the parts blend together, but the join is within easy reach of a sanding stick. It is hard to see where the join is as the parts fit together very well. A pic looking down as requested. Once again, fit is excellent and minimal blending will be required. Some more work. The large avionics access panel forward of the windshield requires some work. I am pretty sure this has been made to be posed open as it appears Trumpeter has missed a small feature. There is a big step where it meets the windshield. A straight edge confirms that they missed the small kink upward where the trailing edge of the access panel meets the windshield area. I cut a square from plastic card and superglued it in between the trailing edge and the first rivet line. I then back filled the edges with my preferred mix of superglue and talcum powder. I use this mix as once set, it sands exactly like plastic and it is very easy to blend without shrinkage. Sanded smooth. A couple of coat of SMS primer, which is an acrylic lacquer paint with that has a fine talc additive that makes it excellent for filling blended areas such as this. Also visible in this pic are the thin panel catches made from plastic card that were not provided in the kit, and also i have deepened the small cooling vent under the avionics bay, using a microchisel.
  22. 18 points

    1/24 Airfix F6F-5 Hellcat

    So, I think I’ve just about finished the engine! I painted all the components separately, then pieced it all together - this ends up being a serious chunk of plastic! The fit is super tight, not in a bad way, in fact in all just clicks together. I hardly used any glue at all. It is, however, a complex structure and some thought and dry runs don’t go amiss. The wiring was easier than I imagined, as the pipe work is very well detailed in the instructions (and colour coded), even giving you the lengths you need to cut for each section. They advise the use of 0.7mm (22 SWG) copper wire. I used coloured Artistic Wire to this diameter and it worked just fine. The holes are all there ready to accept the wire. This is even an improvement on the Tamiya kit for the Corsair - same engine near enough, where it was a pain in the **** to fix the wires to the central section. But no such issues here! An over spray of a warm brown wash tied it all together. Hats off to Airfix for this section. Guy And a point for the multiple sections of pipe - it’s worth noting which are which during painting, as they all look very similar! I used my Gisbod Parts Separating Device (Patent applied for)...
  23. 18 points

    F-14 Phoenix pallets in 1/32...

    It's pretty low on the list since Eduard already released a set. I'll consider both of these, though I glanced through my Tomcat references and don't really have good enough references for either. They are made to fit the Trumpeter kit. I did set a pair on the Tamiya kit and it looks like they might fit with a little work. To keep the price down I decided to just fix the horrible forward section. I will be starting a thread in the vendors forum in a few days.
  24. 17 points
    OK. after a week of mostly work, I finally got the main paint laid down. Beware, there is touch up to do as tis plane has a few raised bits that defied the Oramask 810's ability to hold firm. I only had two instances of paint lift, and both occurred on the periods at the bottom of the exclamation points on the underside. Thanks for looking! Gaz
  25. 17 points
    Just spotted amongst some new photos on Trumpeter's Facebook page... A 1:32 Douglas A-26 Invader? Someone tell me my eyes aren't playing tricks? I've wanted one for donkeys years - and could bin the ID Models one I started wayback... Iain
  26. 17 points
    It's done. And it's a good as we might expect from a model first produced almost 50 years ago. (Documentation contained in the box indicated that this particular model might be more than 40 years old.) And for my next trick! ----- Not actually sure yet. I still have another copy of that 1/20 Cessna SkyHawk.
  27. 16 points
    Hasegawa ST32 homemade mask colours Gunze C Eduard interier photoetche homemade cast epoxy windscreen /it is not good to step on the clear sprue /
  28. 16 points

    1/24 Airfix F6F-5 Hellcat

    I’d love to say I was that clever Adam! But no. To be honest, there’s quite a bit of negativity towards the stressed skin effect , but having handled it close up over the last few weeks - I really like it, I think it’s very well done, and I don’t really see the uniformity of it, the fuselage in particular is very random and convincing to my eye? I think it’s great! Yep, you can see all my mistakes in full technicolour Matt! Talking of which, I have given it the first couple of (thin) coats (about 50% thinners in fact) of the Mr Color Blue and I’m actually very pleased so far.. all the pre painting showing through nicely. My plan next is to overcoat it with MRP Sea Blue, which is the correct, darker midnight blue, hopefully still leaving the pre shade subtly showing through. The Mr Color Blue looks great, but I think it’s too light to be accurate. I haven’t seen any pictures of the real aircraft faded like the Corsairs? They all seem uniformly dark blue. Which is fine, but I reckon that would look a bit boring on a scale model. The MRP paints are very translucent, so hopefully I’ll be able to get a balance between the two...
  29. 16 points
    The summer break is coming to an end. It's time to wrap up this one. Truck is done. Extra pieces of equipment for the diorama: Power Supply Cart, Fire Extinguisher, Compressor, Bicycle and Toolbox. The finished base with heather added to the grass area's. Cheers: Kent
  30. 16 points

    HK 1/32 B-17G 96th BG WIP

    As a side note, too, this post comes with some sobering news. When I left you last (July of 2017), my Grandfather was still alive. He ended up passing away on December 24th, 2017. I traveled to PA for his funeral, and while I was there, something fascinating happened. I came into possession of close to 1200 photo negatives from his time in WWII, to include training before the war, and his time in the occupation forces afterwards. But I needed to get them developed... I passed them along to an outfit in Canada (who's name escapes me, sorry), that does photo restorations for the Imperial War Museum at Duxford. They did an amazing job with the photos, which included, to my amazement, about 15-20 additional photos of the crash of 44-6888: 0568.L.033 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr 0568.L.034 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr 0568.L.058 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr The big gem from the photos? A really majestic photograph of my Grandfather taken during WWII, under the engine of a B-17. It was a fitting tribute to the man who's inspired this build for me, and I will leave you what that photo to enjoy and soak in. 26241290_10210747976678803_569739957_n by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr - Dennis S. Thornton, CO USA
  31. 16 points

    WNW 1/32 Dr 1 Triplane

    Pix from Ernie Ling
  32. 15 points

    1:18 Hobbyboss AV-8B Harrier

    ARCHER rivets to the rescue !!! another oddity for Hobbyboss, they did a nice job of putting the raised rivets on the mid-section of the fuselage which can be seen when you look at photos of the real thing. What's confusing to me is why they only put about half of them on the model and the ones that are missing are the most visible ??? Also they didn't put any on the ventral tail fin so I'll be riveting that as well. I used the Archer "O" scale, 7/8" dia. heads , they're size and spacing is really close to the kits rivets.
  33. 15 points

    Chattanooga 2019 convention

    Thank you for sharing. Nice and clear shots. this one is absolutely mind-blowing
  34. 15 points
    Hi guys, Chris express shipped a pair of these beauties over to me as soon as they were released, huge thanks. The Academy/Cutting Edge hybrids I had on my F-16C before were the weak point of the model so I am really happy that I could replace them. No other Aim-120's come close. I had also bought the Eduard Brassin Aim-120 set. These are very nicely cast but they have a separate and it seems deliberately oversized nose. That can be easily sanded down but still. Also, they seem to taper excessively at the back end. The Zacto versions are perfect in every way to the extent that the wings almost fit into their locations without glue. The slight mold mark shown on another review are invisible if the missiles are mounted on pylons (that's no accident, I'm sure), I didn't bother to do anything about those. My only improvement suggestion is to include five wings for each of the forward and rear sets. They are very thin (great!) and can therefore easily be broken, so an attrition replacement would be nice. I used decals from the AFV Club F-16B kit and used a very light wash. Note the blue bands are far lighter than the blue bands on the Aim-9X and ACMI pod... the latter are unfortunately decals which are too dark. Cheers, Marcel
  35. 15 points

    1:18 Hobbyboss AV-8B Harrier

    Finally got around to working on the HUD display, the kit part is molded in one piece clear, I thought the lenses were far too thick so I cut the support frames from the lenses and sanded the inside smooth then took a razor saw and put slots about half way into the frames where the glass lenses would live and made new ones from .010 petg.
  36. 15 points

    Revell 1/32 Bf109G-6 to G-14 blue 62

    Good evening guys, Some progress to show... First of all i added the MW50 boost pressure gauge on the left side of the cockpit, as Vincent pointed out... I also received Alley cat's correct gun covers... Before start dealing with painting the cockpit i sanded down as much as i could the exhaust covers... I have to paint the exhaust before gluing them from inside to the fuselage sides. Thats a bit of a problem during the painting process, but nothing that cant be done. and time to paint the cockpit...First i applied a coat of ak aluminium, chipping medium and finally gunze's RLM66. Waiting for the parts to dry i dealt with the instrument panel. I chose the resign one from eduard. First i carefully painted the dial details, then i punched the dial faces from airscale's exeptional decals and finally i added small clear sheet faces on top. Little light wash and dry brush and here it is next to yahu's one...i like it better! Next on detailing the cockpit.... Excellent Radub's seat belts... First run for ak's real colors gloss varnish...really excellent staff (thinned with leveling thinner, true opponent for my favourite X-22 from tamiya) Wash, weathering, matt varnish and final weathering... And finally the exhausts, first shot with alclad exhast manifold and then treated with rubb n' buff spanish copper, finally little black with mig's black smoke weathering pigments That;s all folks, hope you like it... Next with cockpit installation.... All the best, John
  37. 15 points

    1:18 Hobbyboss AV-8B Harrier

    Not much work done, finally got around to making some landing lights for the nose gear today.
  38. 15 points
    The Japanese "approach" to the war is different from the Western "approach". In almost every way, it is similar to the Romanian attitude. When I grew up in Romania, no one spoke about the Romanian involvement on the Eastern Front. Romania was the second largest Axis combatant on the Eastern Front, with large contingents and equipment and hundreds of thousands of casualties, prisoners and injured. Almost every family in Romania was affected. On 23 August 1944, Romania switched sides, left the Axis and joined the Allies. When the war ended, with the Russians now based in Romania, it became a "bad idea" to mention the war against the Russians. When we studied history in school, all we ever learned was about what followed after 23 August. Romania was behind the iron curtain. Romanians could only access heavily-censored history. Stuck behind the Iron Curtain, Romanians were fed an altered version of history. Western historians had limited access to info also. So, as a result, the huge efforts and sacrifices made by the Romanian army were completely ignored and eventually forgotten. That is why all my decals are about Romanian aircraft, so they would not be forgotten. However, (and this is where I was going with this) people in Romania still spoke about the war effort. In family chats, inside the house, I could hear hints, whispers, indications that my grandfather fought in Russia. "He was injured in the war". "Where?" "Ah... somewhere out East. Shhhh, don't tell anyone." I never met my grandfather, he died the year before I was born. A friend of my grandfather's was still around, friend of the family. After he died I found a photo of him in an infantry Captain uniform. "When was this?" "Ah...the war... Stalingrad, I think, with your grandfather". "What was he doing there? Was he lost?" "Ah... No... He fought there." "Why?" "You know, the war..." The grandfather of one of my friends in school was missing a leg and walked in crutches. The official story was that he lost it in a vague "accident". My mother let it slip one day that he was actually "injured in the war", that he actually had some "big medals" and even "spent some time in a Russian camp". And so on...in drips and drops, the truth comes out. The point is that these people had to shut up if they wanted to keep their jobs, if they wanted to keep living some kind of normal life without bother from "the power that be" who may not appreciate any mentions of "uncomfortable" subjects. I have been to Japan a few times, I have friends there. Their elders do the same as old Romanians. First, they do not speak about the war, or if they do, they speak in terms that are framed in such a way as to avoid causing "trouble". Eventually you may get "drips and drops" of info, such as "my great-uncle was a radio operator on a ship" or "my grandmother's first boyfriend disappeared". So, if you ask a Japanese person about a thing linked to the war (such as a Lightning) you will get a deflected yet polite reply. That does not mean that they will never approach the subject. They will, but in their own way, in their own time. If you try to find "unbreakable rules" in vague replies, more fool you. ;-) Radu
  39. 15 points
    Fill - sand - fill some more - sand - fill again - sand... Followed by another rinse cycle... You get the picture... Iain
  40. 14 points

    I-16 type 24 - Special Hobby

    Hi Gents, Here is my latest bild - I-16 type 24 from Special Hobby..It was not a simple build,it's an older short run kit which means many adjustments such as adding detail to the surface, etc.,etc...I used my favorite Tamiya Acrylic paints for spraying camouflage,and Humbrol paints for coloring small details in cockpit.All markings are sprayed,the Gvardia badge and stencils on rudder are decals,that I drew myself.I made the weathering with filters from heavily diluted Tamiya acrylic paints,watercolor pencils and AMMO pigments..As the final varnish I used water based Clear Humbrol Satin..Next build - I-16 type 17 from the same Producer.. Enjoy!
  41. 14 points

    RAAF FAC OV-10A All the small things

    Thanks guys. Here is a great pic of Graham, taken by Ken Semmler upon their diversion to Tay Ninh West, post combat action. He is chatting to ‘ALOFT 07’, the FAC mentioned in his combat report above. A great thing about this photo is that it is a photo of s/n 14620, the actual aircraft that I wish to depict. I was hoping for coloured propeller spinners as per some pics of OV-10’s but no such luck. Black they will be. Other interesting details in the pic, the Helmet hanging over the gun barrels, empty rocket pods, various crew equipment stowed in the aircraft and the access step deployed from the bottom of the fuselage, which I will deal with later. A small update. I have began to work on the clear parts. I feel that this area will determine how successful the model will look as a replica of the real thing. Lots of detail will be visible through the large windows and it is critical that as much effort goes into them as the rest of the model. I reckon the canopy frames look a bit underwhelming and in need of a bit of beefing up. There is lots of stuff attached to the frames and a lot of the access windows mechanisms will hang off them so they need to be a bit thicker. The Broncos that I have seen built up look a bit vacant in the cockpit. The windshield. I found a sheet of black styrene and cut off a thin strip. I pre curved this by dragging it through my fingers. The black styrene means I won’t have to be quite as diligent in masking and spraying the inner frames. I then tacked it to the inner frame with superglue. Once I was happy with the new inner frame position, I very carefully wicked Tamiya extra fine glue into the join around the circumference of the frame. Obviously a mess up here will mean disaster. I also added the thin duct that runs up the right side forward windshield glass glass frame that supplies fresh air to the small eyeball vent on the top of it, which I also scratch built from a couple of pieces of different sized plastic rod.
  42. 14 points
    I think they should be given an awful lot of slack, they've released some pretty esoteric subjects so far, who else would have produced a Bronco, Trojan, Havard, Mirage 2000, and, fingers crossed, a Jaguar . Everyone has bills to pay, books to balance.
  43. 14 points

    HK 1/32 B-17G 96th BG WIP

    After allowing the AK metals a few days to dry and cure fully (it really dries and cures if about 30 minutes, but I wanted to be sure), I masked her off for her squadron colors: 20180905_184513 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr 96th BG birds carried the twin red tail/wing bands, and 337th BS birds carried a red band around the nose. Studying reference pictures of the crash, I observed that the front of the port side cheek gun was painted red along with the nose, and the starboard side forward nose window had red painted around its border: 41045759_573396976425563_6324215403488739328_n by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr How would the masking tape and red (MM enamel insignia red) work over the AK Metals? Well, perfectly actually: 41332473_10102634811164522_4122621743154069504_n by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr 41418398_10102634811119612_2424225514915889152_n by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr I was feeling pretty inspired at this point, so I shot the antiglare in front of the cockpit, and got to task applying the decals. Decals were custom made from JBot Decals, and they went down great: 41873213_1974463319278412_1345755949830242304_n by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr 41943862_321131141970773_1211684345207586816_n by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr 41958036_1817414744994333_2471037239648321536_n by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr Windows were cleaned up, gun barrels and fiddly bits added, and the fuselage was mostly complete. She's really starting to look the part: 42591520_2384286398264674_236551839292588032_n by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr 42611657_310386739787574_6135258768272785408_n by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr 42601091_281713176008644_6617723061791621120_n by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr 42612009_308207156634512_6888743405204013056_n by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr Part three coming up...
  44. 14 points

    WnW Felixstowe - Finished Thanks

    Well I'm calling it finished, its a brilliantly engineering kit but my building practices have been poor. For me the model is to big for my limited modelling space, i stuffed the decals completly, my surface prep must have been poor, i'm disapointed in my paint finish the large upper wing panels are differant colours and finishes because i painted them individually and didnt blend the finishes. I dont like the patterns on my worn surface area.......etc etc etc I had really high hopes of a showpiece model but alas my skills were not up to the job, I've displayed it under my fish tank and not on my main display...ah well there always another kit to improve again, thanks for looking and the comments. Ps I started a Tamiya tank 1/35 haha
  45. 14 points
    She is as DONE as I can get her right now! Once I figure out how to print decals I will add the Thunderbird and Country logos for the final touch. Built completely out of the box. Foiled using Microscale foil glue and kitchen foil of varying weights. The foil around the exhaust was treated with bleach, pennies, and fishing weights to develop the heat affected zone. All graphics are painted on using Maketar Kabuki paper and my Silhouette Cameo3. This plane represents the 1954 show season (albeit without the country and Thunderbird logos because I haven’t mastered making my own decals yet if you know what I mean ;-) )The only decals are in the cockpit and the no-step lettering on the wings. Paints are MCW(Model Car World) acrylic lacquer for the plane and Vallejo acrylics in the cockpit. Kudos go to Out2gtcha and MikeA for all their help in learning to foil. Thanks Guys! Here's a close-out shot with more over on the RFI forum: F-84G Thunderbirds I hope you all have enjoyed this build. I sure have! learned alot and will be using these skills on the next 3 Thunderbirds I have to do in completing the family.
  46. 14 points

    1:18 Hobbyboss AV-8B Harrier

    Got her up on some feet today, finished the main rear gear, plumbed it but you can;t really see any of it !!! Layed down some wash on both to dirty them up, the photos I've studied show most Harrier's landing gear are pretty dirty. I made both main gear removable with brass pins to facilitate painting without having to mask around them.
  47. 14 points
  48. 14 points
    Thanks very much for your input Daxspapa. The issue of the map case was pointed out to me as well on my Facebook page so I had to fix it. I was initially a little perplexed as to why it was depicted like that as well. I was asked by TTail whether I was going to make this a RHAW equipped jet. I haven’t settled on a particular aircraft yet as Ronald won’t have access to his log books for another couple of months, but I posed him the question anyway and this is what he wrote back to me. Eric: For most of the year I was in Vietnam, our unit's aircraft did not have RHAW. However, during the last half of my tour, some of the aircraft were modified to include RHAW. In other words, sometimes we flew RHAW equipped aircraft, and sometimes not. It is highly unlikely that the aircraft I flew on the mission in question was RHAW equipped since I arrived in Vietnam in April of 1968 and the mission took place in June. By the end of my tour in April of 1969, most of our aircraft were RHAW equipped. At this stage I will keep the model non RHAW equipped, so the equipment on the instrument panel coaming will stand as per the AIRES set. I added the various handles from plastic rod and painted them yellow with black stripes. I then closed up the forward fuselage. The kit provided nose weight is a nice touch. The picture highlights the excellent fit of the Zactomodels nose. The Aires cockpit tub fit is excellent and did not require too much modification of the kit parts to get it to fit. I have dry fitted the part under the windshield and the part behind the pilot seat. Starting to come together nicely.
  49. 14 points

    1/48th Boeing B-52H Stratofortress

    Afternoon all, Since my last update I've been working on the stabilisers of the B-52. They were first removed from the backing sheet and sanded to the correct thickness, with extra attention being paid to the trailing edges to ensure they were as thin as possible. The stabilisers are very large on this model, and therefore needed a substantial spar structure in order to keep them rigid: IMG_E1266 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr IMG_1267 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr They were then secured to the fuselage and the joins made good, before they received a coat of primer. I have also made the swivel plates from thin plastic card and added these to the correct locations on the fuselage sides: DSC_0216 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0214 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0211 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr We now have a model that is, more or less, structurally complete: DSC_0218 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0227 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0222 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr As you can see from the images above I've also been working on attaching the wing fuel tanks. These didn't fit well to the wing, as the shape of the pylon doesn't match the curvature of the wing. I did consider removing parts from the pylon and trimming it so that it followed the wing's curve, but this meant the tank sat too close to the wing. Therefore, I've instead opted to modify and build up the pylon and blend it in with Milliput. The image below shows what I mean - sanding and final blending still to be done: DSC_0225 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr In other news, designing of some soon-to-be printed 3D wheels is progressing well: IMG_E1386 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr Until next time, Tom
  50. 14 points

    HB B-24J "Going My Way"

    Beginning to add the interior structure into the fuselage. I found it easier to do this in sections, though I had to do some bending with the aft floor section. Yeah, I thought about moving he navigator's station aft, and then recreating the radio room, but I decided this would be a B-24 where they hadn't done that yet (it was a field expedient thing anyway, IIRC).
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