Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/16/2019 in all areas

  1. 30 points

    F-86F Hasegawa 1/32

    I've used the Hasegawa 1/32 Canadair Sabre Mk.6 kit to build this F-86F on the beginning of Dec 2018. I was interested in exploring the visual expression of Natural Metal Finishing type of aircraft. I've used the Alcled II lacquers for the painting. With the limited colors and experience I have, this is best I can do at that time. F-86F Sabre 40, Hasegawa 1972 kits, rebox on 2005, 1/32 with raised panel lines.
  2. 29 points
    Fieseler Fi 103 & Fi 103A-1 Reichenberg 1/32 Special Hobby All colours MRP Canopy mask MH Models
  3. 25 points

    My Day Job

    I thought I’d share a few images of my most recent endeavors. I’ve spent my entire career as a model maker, mostly architectural models as well as Industrial Design work, prototypes and appearance models. Lately my career has taken an enjoyable but very busy turn building custom model railroad environments. Here are some photos of my most recent, still under competion, being built for a former Cabinet Secretary from the previous administration here in the States. Jimbo ps: if you look up James Harr Model Maker on Facebook you’ll see a lot of my other work if you scroll back through. Enjoy!
  4. 25 points

    Airfix's big Typhoon

    Just added the finishing touches to Airfix's 1/24th Hawker Typhoon MkIb this week: a project I've had on the bench for the last 6 months or so. Admittedly I've picked it up and put it down as and when I've felt like it, but regardless this kit is most definitely a long-term investment in regard to time and effort. I found it an absolute joy to build and thoroughly enjoyed every minute. Fit was exceptional but you must follow the instructions to the letter, especially where the engine and its piping is concerned, as tolerances are very tight. The only after-market was a set of Eduard seat belts - everything else was OOB. PIC 9 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr PIC 8 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr PIC 7 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr PIC 6 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr PIC 5 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr PIC 4 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr PIC 3 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr PIC 2 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr PIC 1 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr PIC 10 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr I opted for the post-war scheme so other than some tonal variation to the paint, I kept the weathering restrained. Paints were Xtracolour enamels with Humbrol flat as a top coat. Decals were from the kit and were excellent, bedding down well over the recessed/raised details without any problems. All in all, a fantastic kit - roll on the big Hellcat! Best regards, Tom
  5. 23 points
    Cheers everybody, it looks like I have found my next big project after finishing the big Viking - something pretty much out of my comfort zone. The CH-53E / MH-53E is a more than fascinating aircraft and among my all-time favourite helicopters. Based on a free nicely proportioned and correctly dimensioned Sketchup model I have found a few years ago, I have spent hours making the file printable on my newly acquired Creality CR-10S FDM printer. Over 100 hours of printing later, I have an almost complete CH-53E fuselage in 1/32nd scale: The fuselage was printed using PETG; my first trials with HIPS were not very successful as I've experienced enormous warping and bad layer adhesion, despite rather high temperature settings and the enclosure I've built for my printer. PETG does not sand as nicely as ABS or HIPS but is very easy to print and much easier to sand than PLA. The rotor will be more difficult as the CAD data is not complete - most of it will have to be scratchbuilt. There is no interior either, so all of this will have to be made from scratch as well. I have to admit I am not yet 100% sure if I will build a CH-53E or a MH-53E as both of them are impressive and important aircraft. The CH-53E will be easier to build as I have the sponsons and external fuel tanks; the MH-53E is a bit more tempting as it is even more special than the CH. Time will tell. In the meantime, if anyone has the 1/48th scale Academy MH-53E in his stash, I would be very interested in getting high-res scans of the instructions and the decal sheet. Would be great if someone could help me with that. What do you think - CH or MH? And no, Airforce versions are not an option and building both of them is not really an option either...
  6. 21 points
    The 2nd 1/32 kit in my Natual Metal Finishing projects. I spent most of my 2018 Christmas and New Year holidays on it. F-100D Super Sabre 1/32 Trumpeter Kit with Alcled II Lacquers. I've tried not to ink on any panel lines. Instead, using the delicate control of airbrush and compressor PSI to express the idea of metal panels.
  7. 21 points

    Zoukei Mura Kawasaki Ki-45 Kai Tei (Late)

    Thanks guys for your kind words! really appreciate it! I will try to answer Roger and Bryan's question regarding chipping. I was working with AMMO chipping fluids with MRP and Mr. Color paints but used to have same issues with it as Bryan describes above. Thin layer doesn't work and thick layer of the fluid turned into small drops which when scratched down with brush or toothpick left rounded scratches. I will try hair spray method in future but these days I prefer to work as efficient as I can. That's why I use maskol (Mr. Masking Sol Neo specifically). Issue is that you don't have enough control over the size of scratches,but on the other hand you can mask many parts and let dry the paint on it overnight and you don't have to work fast as with the chipping fluids. I think that the key is to apply realli tine amount of the maskol. Here is simple instruction how I did scratches on engine nacelles. MRP black surfacer MRP Duralaluminium applied Masking sol applied with small pieces of sponge paint (Mr. Hobby C55) applied shading with lighter shade of base paint masking sol scratched down with toothpick and cleaned with tack-it adhesive (the best stuff to remove maskol) final layer of gloss varnish, MIG dark wash applied and finished with MRP semimatt finished HTH jan
  8. 21 points
    Got the wings glued together, and per the A-2 Trop designation it used new weapon aiming systems, enlarged DB603M engines, and longer/ reinforced wings, I used the extented longer wingtips. I slipped the wings on to see where I was, and then busted out the G-Factor gear. I initially though I wasn't going to use them, as I thought I could just use the OOB fork and gear with my own oleo strut, but I definitely did NOT like the look of the smaller A-0 wheel and fork, and wanted to use the larger front tire of the B series Do-335. I really wanted to turn the front nose wheel to add some interest, but I quickly discovered that trying to bend or otherwise turn the G-Factor gear was not worth the risk. It was then, that I figured out that the G-Factor gear was for the B-2/6 and had the larger single sided fork for the larger front tire, so I decided to go with that. The stance looks pretty good here right out of the package, and in my eye will only get better once the larger MLG wheels are put on with the slightly smaller nose wheel. Fit of the wings is pretty good. The fit of the G-Factor gear is quite loose and the angles of all the gear here is really off as all 3 gear are just loosely setting in position: Next up, I took the wings back off, so I could get the landing light straightened out. It was not much of anything OOB, so I boxed in all three sides with plastic card, so all seems were hidden, then added a PE sheet for the back for two rounded lights (I didnt like the look of the normal square ones) and added two thing-a-ma-bobs from the watch bits I got off E-bay. The light fixture is canted a bit, so as to stay level with the ground, as apposed to level with the dihedral of the wings. Later I will add a center post and some glass for the lights using my UV gel "Bondic" pen: The beginnings of a first a spritz of MRP chrome: Again, seemingly MUCH better looking IRL than I can get in pics. More tonight, as Im working toward getting the MLG wheel wells buttoned up and decent without spending TOO much time on them, or going TOO crazy with them.
  9. 20 points
    My Corsair number 8. Barracuba decals & wheels HGW wet transfers & seat belts Painting mask homemade All colours MRP
  10. 20 points
    It's Tamiya kit I've built on Nov 2018.
  11. 20 points

    Hawker Hunter Revell 1:32

    The model I made a long time ago, This is a model from the OLD SCHOOL category. Model Hawker Hunter Revell 1:32 Model straight from the box, and the other I try not to build.
  12. 19 points

    HB B24 discussion: AM and fixes.

    I will have some B24 AM available in a few weeks (with instruments of course...) Peter
  13. 19 points
    evening ladies & thank you :) have been sorting out more of the basic structural elements so ultimately I have the airframe ready to skin in one (long) go, rather then the Spitfire where I did it bits at a time and had trouble protecting finished work as I did some pretty violent things like those I am doing now... starting with the tailwheel well - I started byu cutting just the doors out, but soon realised I could not detail the inside through the small aperture - I won't go mad in here, but I will replicate most of what I can see - here is the real (current) Lopes Hope.. ..I started by cutting out the section between two fuselage stations in between the whole structure and getting rid of all the solid foam inside - painted it black so none of this is seen... ..then from many scaled plan parts I assembled the main structure from litho, with brass strengthening where the wheel leg will mount... ..added some details and skinned the sides of it so it can drop in as a complete pod... ..this was then added and CA'd into position ready for the fuselage section to be added back & filling.. ..and after cleaning up, the basics are in there I can come back to later.. ..I also added the airscoop and got the shapes in this area where I was happy with them.. ..the next bit of surgery was around the wing fillets - they seem quite complex on a P51 with the top edge sitting over the flaps and a lower fairing cut away right back to the fuselage wall.. ..the moulded fillet is a bit ugly and will need quite a bit of work.. ..I made a slit in the fuselage and added a brass template from a scaled plan - I also faked a flap from bent litho so I could get the dimensions right... ..then lots of filling & shaping and trying hard to work around and not damage the skinned part of the airscoop... ..and finally after a shot of primer to see whats what, the basics seem to be coming together... ..the skin panels that have to go over that lot are quite distinctive so looking forward to that when the time comes :) TTFN Peter
  14. 18 points

    Tamiya 1/32 F4U-1A Corsair

    Hello everyone. This is my maiden post here on the forum although I’ve been lurking around for about a year now. I really enjoy following the amazing builds on the site, what a talented bunch here. I’m 43 years old and have been an aviation buff since early childhood. I am new to modelling, as I never had the opportunity when I was a child. One of my favorite toys growing up was an already built Corsair model that I found. It was only the fuselage and wings, the rest had fallen or broken off before I found it. Regardless, I loved it haha. Now some 35 years later I’m building my own Corsair. I’ve built four 1:48 scale fighters over the past year and I’m now stepping up to 1:32. I’m still very green at this and the only thing I have going for me is I have a cutting mat and I use Tamiya thin cement (so I at least look the part!) I will do my best with this build and I would surely appreciate any feedback. Please don’t be afraid to give it to me, you won’t hurt my feelings. After all, I would like to improve and advice from others will help me tremendously. I may not always make the suggested corrections with this build but I will certainly take the advice for future projects. Hopefully others new at the hobby that are following this thread can pick up some tips from my mistakes. On to the build. I’m building Tamiya’s 1:32 F4U-1a, everything straight from the box and I’m not adding any scratch built parts. Just keeping my fingers from being glued together will be a challenge enough for me. I’ve read great things about this kit so I thought it would be a nice introduction for me to larger scale planes. I haven’t decided whether or not to do the engine as I like the look of a closed up bird. So far I have the cockpit pretty much buttoned up. Here’s my progress so far.. Thanks for looking and allowing me to share this build here. -Robert
  15. 18 points

    1/32 Hasegawa P-40E

    Well all good things must come to an end. This is the finished Hasegawa 1/32 P-40E. Let me recap. -Scratchbuilt interior minus seven kit parts, one resin engine, and one resin seat. -Scratchbuilt tail wheel assembly. -Scratchbuilt wing framing. -Scratchbuilt .50 cals. -After market decals. All told way to long to finish. But I will take it. Again the pictures are much too faded but this time I know why. There are some issues/omissions, glaring to me. The ones I did not fix are the ones that would require me to tear the build apart and start over. Thank you for looking in. All comments, critiques, and criticism are encouraged. Joe
  16. 18 points
    Thx guys, the encouragement is very motivating! Thx Jaws, the flightline look is exactly what I am going for Well, she is done! Here are some preliminary pics, taken under poor lighting conditions. I plan on taking some better shots and Chuck has very kindly also offered to edit them a little more professionally, once I have those shots I will post them in the Ready for Inspection section. But here goes for now: And the double is officially complete: Thanks for looking! Marcel
  17. 18 points
    Thanks Hakan! Worked on mocking up where the rear sand intake filter was going to set: More work and pictures to come, I spent tonight assembling the wings, and working on the landing gear. Man, with the longer wing tips on, this plane is BIG.
  18. 17 points

    F-14A Tomcat Trumpeter 1:32

    This time, a tomcat, ready to fly, in a slightly tired version. F-14A Tomcat Trumpeter 1:32 Made straight from the box with the addition of decals.
  19. 17 points

    F4U-1 "575" Lt. Ed Olander

    Today update.
  20. 17 points
    Howdy folks just a little update today.. I needed to sort out the landing light - just like this one... ..started by cutting the section from the wing.. ..the lamp itself has a rounded rim so I made up a vacform tool and vacformed it from black plastic so I don't need to paint near the glass.. ..made a chrome dome reflector from ali and glazed it, also made up the mounting bracket from plans... ..mounted it all and spent some time trying to heat form the leading edge from PETG in boiling water - it's the blue thing at the bottom, still in it's protective wrap ..hard to photograph it mounted, but it's all in place - the whole unit had to be virtually airtight so as not to let any dust in while it was faired in - a coat of matt black means the metal won't show when I skin it.. ..also installed the gun ports by adding ali tube and lining it all up allowing for the vertical offset of the barrel tubes.. ..not finished, but the grunt work is done.. ..having done most of the big bits on the airframe, I thought I would move into the wheel bays - I decided to cut the skin back to the mainspar to give some working room and realised the hard foam had crept in and needed cleaning out... ..made up some 'T' stringers from PE and strips of plastic card - I actually made another version to be folded up but it didn't work as I forgot to etch a scoreline into the top fold - these will work just fine though.. ..the best place to start was with the central rib, so I made up a laminate from plastic & ali and scaled the real one's layout - mine is shallower as I have brass sheet in the wheelbay roof to support the leg mounts... ..the main details & openings were transposed from the plans and added... ..and then the rib itself was detailed - I will only add what is painted Yellow Zinc Chromate (I think - anyone know the right colour?) - so I can spray the complete bay before adding all the gubbins.. ..and the rib in place with the rear spar faces which are next.. ..you can also see I had to cut a hole in the well roof as I found a big opening with loads of bobbins & pipes coming through from the engine bay.. ..rear spar wall is next and then the stringers - after that it's all the ribs with cut-outs for the gear legs etc.. ..I could be in here for some time... TTFN Peter
  21. 17 points
    And....we're off! Last year, I did a little bit of gluing and some cutting on this, but I think it was well below the 25% threshold, so this weekend I took a break from the Stuka to get down to biznass on this one, too. I forgot to mention this will be a "gear up" flight display. I chose to use the old Cutting Edge early conversion, even though I have the GMF/Rutman one, too, as much out of curiosity as anything. Since I forgot to take any pics before I started, here's a canned pic of the conversion set: Overall, the fit and quality appears to be decent, but for a few glaring problems I've already encountered. The instructions would have you replace the entire front of the engine nacelle, including the wing roots, but upon test fitting, I found that the conversion's wing roots did not match up with the kit wings very well, so I elected to cut them off the CE parts and leave the kit roots in place: Here's what I removed: This seemed to work rather well, and I've already blended them in and begun re-scribing the details. The supercharger conversion parts actually fit really well, so no issues there: The boom radiators were the toughest part by far. You have to cut out a big hunk of the boom on each side an replace it with a new piece, and then attach the new scoops over them. The infill pieces fit ok, but the scoops sucked. As you can see in the photo, I still have to cut one of them back off and make it larger (second from right) because it's smaller than the other three, but I didn't see that until I'd already puttied them in and begun blending them. Dangit. Anyway, that took a lot of my weekend, and that's all the farther I got, so you can see that this is not as easy as I'd hoped. A last one of the parts I've worked on thus far: And back to the Stuka and 3D printing stuff for a while. To much sanding make Tim a grumpy guy. Tim
  22. 17 points
    Some photos with where I'm at... Roundels are now sitting nicely - albeit with a few cracks that will need touching in on the fuselage roundels. Model loosely put together - with dry fitted undercarriage - and, for the first time - test piece canopies in place to test fit (these are not the final quality ones!). Excuse the dust on the model - will just wipe off! Have fun! Iain
  23. 17 points
    Hour's of work later... The superstructure parts are coming together... Inside the nose. Detailing of the front cabin. Cockpit and rear cabin. Front superstructure in place. Spend a lot of time to find a way of making the roof of the front cabin detachable... It's getting there... Cheers: Kent
  24. 17 points
    Back to the wings... Wing tips lopped off by cutting along the relevant panel line with a fresh scalpel blade - taking care and multiple passes, the plastic is pretty thick. We'll come back to the tips shortly and concentrate on the main body of the wing just now... Strengthening webs removed completely from the rear half of the lower starboard wing, using Tamiya side-cutters followed up with some coarse sanding boards: Comparison with port-side equivalent: And current gap at rear - this will grow as we still have more material to remove from the upper-surface moulding: But - wing root - shape pretty well sorted now! Note - none of the webs further along have been cut yet - so there is a twist in the wing - this will go as we move down the wing with formers. First image - as kit - with some material removed - behind former: Upper and Lower wing sections wrapped around former - rear upper surface of wing will be straighter once bonded: Better? Iain
  25. 17 points
    First up, I finished the elbow rest for the Ruhrstahl X-4 control stick. Since no pics of the actual elbow rest exist (that I know of) and the fact that this is a later iteration of the X-4 this is what mine looks like. Its not perfect but looks the part IMHO. It actually swivels and locks out of the way, swinging back toward the console, but I have it locked in the extended position so people can see what its actually for: Next up it was time to make sure the fuselage was closed up. I got the fuselage closed up, and the spine graphed on. The fit on both was actually pretty good: Next up, I got the QB exhausts painted and installed. These were not rusted out, nor super weathered ,but I used Alclad jet exhaust, followed by some Alclad pale burnt metal, and then some flat clear with soot on the tips. All sounds complex, but the colors sort of blended more than I expected They actually look much better IRL than in pics: Then I took some time and got the engine covers installed. This took some doing, as the rear engine covers were a tight fit, and getting the trailing edge around the exhausts was a bit of a task. For this, I was in a quandary about how to mask all those exhausts stacks off. What I ended up doing, was some fancy dancy masking, by actually making a pocket of tape for the exhausts and attaching them to the panels before gluing in the engine cover panels, both front and rear. This seems a bit odd, but it resulted in a very tight mask around each exhaust set on each side. So far this has worked out better than I hoped, but the litmus test will be once the model is painted, as I will see if the tape comes off as easy as I hope it will. I made sure to attach the inner portion of the tape with minimal attachments to the inside surface of the engine covers, so when it does come time to remove the tape, there wont be a lot of tape holding things in place from the inside. I also could not resist putting the cowl, cowl flaps, rad front and both props on as a mock-up to see what things are going to look like: As you can see, I also cut down the port side exhaust intake shield, as I thought it looked odd extending so far beyond the rear of the exhausts: Both rear engine panels did fit, but they were tight, and will need a bit of finish sanding/tidying up: All in all, Im very please at how fast this one is going together, and how well its turning out: Tomorrow today (starting right now actually!) we are supposed to get 6 - 10" of the white stuff, and hit a low of -5F, so the boss just said to work from home. That means its Friday and Ill be working on work model stuff here. I think tomorrow I will be hitting the spares drawer to see what I can find in the way of louvers or scoops for some extra rear engine cooling for the A-2 Trop. I also got the Eduard exterior in, so am also going to try to get the rad screen painted and installed as well. As always cheers and thanks for dropping in on me!