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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/03/2020 in all areas

  1. 41 points
    Koralik

    A-6E Intruder VA-196 Trumpeter 1:32

    I would like to show you the model of the jet that I love. A-6E Intruder from Trumpeter 1:32 scale as always, a model made straight out of the box. Therefore, some of the decals don't match the original. The Trumpeter A-6 model is one of the best models of this company in the 1:32 scale. Unfortunately, model it's quite complicated and demanding to build. However, this is one of those jets that you must have on your shelf. 1: 1 I 1:32
  2. 38 points
    This model was built to depict the F-100D flown by Captain Ronald Swanson during a ground support mission in 1968 whilst under the direction of Forward Air Controller, Flying Officer Macaulay Cottrell RAAF. It was whilst I was building Mac's O-1 Bird Dog that I had the idea to try and track down either of the F-100 pilots mentioned in the combat report written by the BLADE flight, and was successful in contacting Ronald. He agreed to be my subject pilot and this is the result. Additions: Aires Cockpit. Aires Wheel Bays. Aires Exhaust. Zactomodels Nose Cone Armoury Wheels. Videoaviation BLU-27 Napalm bombs Eduard MK-82 Snakeyes Eduard photo etch slats Aerobonus helmet Master Pitot Tube Modifications. Scratch built seatbelts. Scratch built pylon sway braces Canopy hinge point moved 5 mm rearward Main undercarriage legs shortened 3 mm Cannon access panels moved 2 mm rearward Various panels re scribed Pitot tube attachment fairing rebuilt Drop tank hard points moved 3 mm outboard Scratchbuilt landing lights. 23mm plug to lengthen each drop tank Other small tweaks. Paint and Markings MRP paints with painted markings.
  3. 37 points
    alain11

    conversion Atlas Cheetah C

    hi gents here is my last build . this is the Italieri Mirage III converted to the Cheetah C version ... It has been a long time project ,. a hard way with questions , hesitations etc..... in fact , I think that the cut , and the extension of the fuselage scared me ... you know me , I am a fan of the Mirage , I already built 6 of them , in different version , but this one , is very special , with her "long neck" , maybe the most " elegant" version ......thank you for watching , enjoy ...or not ...............................thank you Nick for your help Alain pictures taken indoor
  4. 34 points
    Thunnus

    1/32 Zoukei-Mura Ta152H-0 White 7

    Attached for your review are photos of my recently completed 1/32 Zoukei-Mura Ta152H-0. Although Z-M has offered a H-0 in the past, that kit was not available and so I had to backdate the Ta152H-1 kit into a H-0. To make matters more complicated, the only Z-M Ta152H kit available was the Special Edition H-1 based on The Cockpit anime and molded in black plastic. I added the following items to the build... 1. Henri Daehne Ta 152H-1 Resin Prop and Spinner 2. RB Productions Ta 152H Photoetch Cockpit set 3. Synthetic Ordnance Works Ta 152H Landing Gear In addition to the extensive re-scribing I had to do on the wings, the kit fought me once I started gluing the major components together. Lots of fit issues, especially on the wings and around the fuselage/wing joints. But I stuck with it and came out with this... The complete build log can be found at the following link:
  5. 31 points
    Madmax

    A6M2b Zero (Houkoku 1045)

    It is easy to get sidetracked when researching the A6M2. It will inevitably lead the enthusiastic reader to Canada, which it did in my case. I didn't know that Mitsubishi's competitor Nakajima built Zero's, or that there were subtle (and obvious) ways of knowing the difference. One of those differences, the white surround to the Hinomaru, was one of the major features I wanted to incorporate in this build, since it highlights the dark shade of the grey with which the Zero was painted. Then I discovered the concept of the Houkoku presentation number, and that became number two on the wish list! How does this research end up in Canada you may ask? In 1968 an enterprising Canadian from Manitoba went in search of wreckage on Ballale Island in the Western Solomon Islands, and he hit the Nakajima built Houkoku A6M2 motherload. Three of them! They were chopped up (along with a Val), and carried out of the jungle by local labour, put onto boats and by the most amazing feat of horse trading ended up on Friendship Field in Carman, Manitoba. Their story is pretty complicated, but ends up in a collection of artefacts owned by the Blayd Corporation, also from Carman. A name that kept surfacing around these aircraft and research about them is Ryan Toews - another Canadian. Ryan's tweak list for building both of the Tamiya Zero's is a must read for anyone attempting these kits, and he has been a veritable gold mine of information for this project. You can see his contributions in the build thread, along with all the other information about the construction and painting that I won't rehash here. Since the tails of these aircraft were not attached to the wrecks, it is pure speculation at this stage to assign any identity other than the construction number. The aircraft is pictured soon after delivery to the island, having been assembled and test flown, awaiting the painting of unit identification. A final salute... Sean
  6. 28 points
    My new project - AT-33A, No.721, Escuadrilla Acrobatico "Los Quetzales", based at La Aurora, Guatemalan Air Force, 1970. WIP here
  7. 28 points
    X15

    KI61 Hasegawa

    Hello, Happy to show you my last built. This is my first "metal" model. I used Vallejo acrylic Metal Color aluminium, very easy to used and good finish. I used it with 20% tamiya thinner. But the more difficult of this model is the green camouflage !!!! All weathered is doing with paint oil. X15
  8. 28 points
    Vynce804

    Hobby Boss B24j 1/32

    Hi everyone, been a while since I worked on the big b24, but I’ve had a bit of time over the past few weeks to move it on a bit. Nmf is finished and I used ak extreme metal. markings are all painted and I have gloss coated so decals next. Cheers. Matt
  9. 28 points
    evening ladies got a good session in over the weekend, so a bit more to show.. the prop blade root rings were laminated & assembled... ..not fixed yet, but slid on for size.. ..and what they will look like on the prop.. ..the floor parts were prepared, some are laminates and the one in the middle needed the rectangular pressing adding by first making a template and working some annealed litho.. the far left part is the firewall bulkhead.. ..the base part for the rear canopy had a brass channel added to the back.. ..this was then added and a little bit of P38 filler to just fair it in just right.. .the rough holes in the floor are just that - rough holes in the floor (to allow the proper holes to be see through) ..to make the pressing that is behind the seat and holds the baggage hatch, I made up a buck in thick plastic card so I could form a metal one over it.. ..the first stage in forming - this is after a little hammering and pressing with wooden tools.. ..and after finessing a bit... ..I actually decided to leave the part on the buck and integrate that into the model - here the floors have been fitted, but the seat bulkhead is just restiung in place.. ..it's nice to get going now I have the PE - lots of little projects I can get on with.. TTFN Peter
  10. 27 points
    williamj

    F6F-3 Hellcat..

    A few more...
  11. 27 points
    June 14/20 About 3 weeks ago I got up to Step 12, but it was time to start painting. As mentioned earlier, I will show you how I paint and detail cockpits. The first step after all the parts have been trimmed and cleaned up is to spray all cockpit parts with a gloss coat of black lacquer. I’ve been doing this for may years for the following reasons. 1. The gloss black finish reveals small imperfections like seam lines, which can be easily fixed this early in the build. 2. Some of the cockpit parts are going to wind up black anyway. 3. The gloss finish is perfect for applying small decals and placards. 4. The black causes shadow effects when other colors are sprayed over it. 5. The lacquer dries fast and harder than enamel, so small enamel imperfections can be wiped off with a little solvent. Be careful though, because too much solvent and too much rubbing will also remove the lacquer. 6. I find that gloss black with a dull coat looks more natural than flat black, which is often too rough. So here’s the beginning, with all parts painted with Gloss Black Lacquer. Note that some parts are not glued into place yet, for ease of painting, or different colors other than black and green. Next, black areas are masked off before spraying with RAF Interior Green, which is much greyer than USAAF Interior Green. Other small parts are also painted separately with different colors. Gauge decals and placards are then applied to the gloss black, followed by Microsol to melt them into the fine detail of the cockpit parts. The kit decals are better than I expected, but they do need many applications of Microsol to settle them down. I added a few supplemental placards, courtesy of airscale. For the instrument panel which comes in 3 large decal parts, I cut out most of the small gauges into separate pieces to avoid decal film as much as possible. I didn’t hit the very center of each gauge as much as I would have liked, because you can’t see the edges of the gauge until the decal has already settled down. Too late! To repair the decal would be a nightmare, so I left them as is, which isn’t that bad, especially from a distance. All other switches and small details were picked out using silver and red paint as required. After the decals dried, I dry brushed a bit of silver to pick out some of the surface detail, then sprayed a coat of flat coat to dull the finish. Finally, I placed a droplet of Future into each gauge, to bring the glossy glass look back. Some of the masking is tricky, like this steel colored tank behind the seat. Oxygen? The central control stick and floor assembly should be fairly dirty, so I used Tamiya pastels and bit of sandpaper to replicate same. Most of these parts are the kit resin supplements, which are much more detailed than the older kit parts. Pre-assembly, with the throttle dry fit only to avoid future breakage. Until the seat it installed, this is about all you can glue together. The cockpit cage positioned on the fuselage walls, more or less where they will reside after final assembly. Note that the flare holders (?) were picked out with silver and all of the gloss black was knocked down with a flat coat. I applied a bit of a dark wash here and there to dirty up the other parts a bit. A dry-fit walk-around. Note: Most of the holes that the pins should fit into must be enlarged with a small drill. Excuse the dust! No plumbing or electrical wiring yet, which will be minimal because this cockpit is quite busy without it. Once I’m ready to glue the cockpit into place, I will figure out where these wires will start and end, so that fit isn’t an issue with tight tolerances. Cheer, Chuck
  12. 27 points
    hey folks Hi Levier - that is what I thought, so that is what I have done for now Thanks Alain - yes, I saw the radiator is different and have started making up those shapes, once the PE arrives I can sort it out So while I wait for the PE, a few little things done.. ..the big under fuselage airscoop needed a resin nose so I could hollow it out so this was thrown in a mould.. ..then cast and starting to drill out the waste.. ..and it's good enough to skin when the time comes.. ..also the cowl was reshaped as the front opening was a bit too wide.. also added fake cowl flaps so I can get the positioning of the radiator and the rounding of the fuselage under them.. and here my nice 3D fuselage front has been reworked, the centre spigot made bigger and the exhaust port openings made up.. ..the 3D radiator was split in two and a spacer added to get the right width.. ..that was then skinned in brass until the PE turns up.. ..so now the spacing internally in the cowl is correct.. ..the spinner was next, a backplate detail was made with rivet detail.. ..this was then painted RLM 66 (hope thats right..) ..then rivets added and an alclad basecoat.. and I decided for now to shoot the spinner black and wire wool it to see some of the rivet detail.. ..for the blades, I scaled a good profile picture and looked at whether I could repurpose either the Hobbyboss or the 21st Century Toys blade to suit.. ..decided on the Fw190D blade and stuck the profile to the blade and dremelled away the difference.. ..and after finishing a master, I cast 3 more.. ..and the prop is nearly finished - I still need to add all the PE parts at the base of each blade (pitch controls?) they are notched discs present on most blades.. ..just waiting for the PE now before I can really get started.. TTFN Peter
  13. 26 points
    Koralik

    F-4E Phantom II HAF Tamiya 1:32

    One of the most interesting airplanes for people who like strong weathering. F-4E Phantom II Hellenic Air Force Tamiya 1:32, model made of course straight from the box so it may not be an ideal reproduction of the F-4E HAF. The Tamiya set is probably well known to everyone. In short it's realy good set. Greek planes can be very heavily exploited, which makes them a great material for modelers.
  14. 26 points
    Less than a week ago I received an email sent via my website: I replied to Hannes that I couldn't remember writing about about Lt Barthel, but a little research on Britmodeller came up with: This was 10 years ago in a Night fighter GB. I then remembered my source: and I let Hannes know, adding that in the Nachtjagd War Diaries it noted that Barthel had shot down four bombers and himself was shot down on 26 March 1945 whilst in a ground attack role. I was intrigued so decided to do a bit more digging, especially since downloading material from the National Archives is free at the moment. A friend in New Zealand (Rod Mackenzie, co-author of the Nachtjagd War Diaries) told me the Mosquito that shot down Barthel's Bf110 was from 410 Squadron, a Canadian squadron based initially in Lincolnshire UK but moving to France as the invasion of Europe advanced. I found the entry in 410 Squadron's Operation Record Book: and then crucially the Combat Report: It didn't take too long to research the Mosquito pilot, Flight Lieutenant Ben Erwin Plumer DFC From this point the story started taking off......more later!!
  15. 25 points
    Very old 1974 TOMY kit plus MDC conversion color AK Real color , Gunze C, Yahu Instrument panel homemade mask - drawn in corel draw, mask which was edited and carved on plotter by my friend Pavel Shortland floatplane base, Solomons Islands, February 1943, flown by Lt. Keizo Yamazaki
  16. 24 points
    Starfighter

    AH-1Z Viper, Academy 1/35

    Here's a quick look at the first and probably only model I have finished in 2020, Academy's excellent 1/35th scale AH-1Z Viper. Probably the best kit I have ever built - excellent surface detail (raised rivets!!), perfect fit. The cockpit is a bit of a letdown detail wise, but nothing that can't be fixed with a bit of effort. Clear parts are a bit of a disappointment as well. The model was published in issue 6/2020 of German magazine ModellFan, so I can just post a minimum of photos at the moment. I am working on a little diorama which I'll show you once it's finished. Just a quick summary of the materials used: Blade fold & blade fold rack by Legend Productions, some PE from Eduard's AH-1W set, Master Model gun, Flying Leathernecks decals, Werner's Wings stencils. MSR/SAIP pod, ground handling wheels, Sidewinder seeker head cover and FMV pods on the tail boom designed & printed by myself. If you have comments, critique or questions, please do not hesitate!
  17. 24 points
    Finished up the upper turret this morning, happy with the results, I think that it looks much better with all the frame work sanded off the dome, I also sanded the top of the dome a little flatter as the earlier martin turrets were, I was a little apprehensive to sand too much as I didn't want to go through the top...
  18. 24 points
    1/32 Hasegawa Real Model 2020 conversion set Eagle Cockpit set & wooden flaps Barracuda Wheels HGW riveting set, wet transfers, seat belts All colours MRP All painting mask homemade
  19. 24 points
    Completed the 1/32 Fisher kit of the F7U-3 Cutlass. More detailed modelling info on my webpages here: https://designer.home.xs4all.nl/models/f7u-cutlass-32/f7u-32-1.htm Meindert
  20. 23 points
    Hi, some progress in assembling and weathering the 262 ... time for dinner now :-)
  21. 22 points
    Hello, folks! Paid a visit to Rechlin Luftfahrtmuseum these days. Rechlin was THE test- and evaluation center of the German air forces from the end of WW1 to the end of WW2. From Fokker to Focke-Wulf, so to say. After WW2 it became a Soviet air field, housing f. e. Mig-23s and Mig-27s. A part of the facilities was rebuild into a large communication equiment storage for the East German NVA. Another part was made into a shipyard building small fast attack crafts and modern lifeboats. Nowadays it is a museum about all 3 branches. Been there some years ago, but they recieved a plethora of new and amazing stuff. So it was about time for another visit, armed with my trusty camera: You know what this is? Great news that is! We have a Do-335 in Germany! The only original one is at Udvar in the US of A. We got a replica, using as much of original parts as possible. Yes, it will be shown as a B with wing guns! Dunno, why the image is sideways. The orignal image is upright. Forgot to take a photo of the whole thing. I've got carried away by something different. Wait for the end of this post Tank Ta-154 replica. Was build by cabinet maker apprentices from Paderborn (Germany) years ago as a training project. DFS assault glider. Remember the Bronco kit? The type used to assault Eben Emanel fortress in Belgium. This? Fokker D.VII without covering. There is also a complete replica in full Lozenge wear. Not to mention a Dreidecker. A Junkers D.I replica. An Etrich Taube. Siemens-Schuckert D.III. Junkers F13. Replicas alltogether. Not to forget WW2 rebuilds: A Me-262 with some original parts. A rebuild He-162 Volksjäger. Reichenberg IV suicide bomb. Cockpit replicas of the Ju-388, Arado Ar-234, Me-109 and other stuff. A Buchon, rebuild into a 109 G2. A lot of engines. Like this one: Hirth engine that powered the Bücker 131. If you want more photos to superdetail your ICM engine, just ask me. I have a full walkaround set. This is the Lilienthal glider. Otto Lilienthal was the first human to build and succesfully fly an aircraft! Anno 1891 was this. The story behind this rebuild is also amazing: It was built by an 14 years old schoolboy from Munich as a school project. He used the original Lilienthal drawings, that were made public by the Lillienthal brothers themselves. It took him a full year with a lot of ons and offs. Guess you know about this phenomenon Finally the very special and unique thing of the Rechlin museum that carried me away. Guess you know what this is? Gotha Go-60. A very promising German late war project (the Luftwaffenministerium even had some real toughts to stop the Horten IX /Ho-229 fighter project in favour of this one). Due to it's layout fast and capable, with heavy armament (4x 30mm MG 108 firing forward, 4 more upwards) and a 3 man crew! Where the navigator and the radar operator were positoned? Lying in the left and right wingroots, with a small window in the leading edge Guess THIS is something you will not find in 1:1 scale anywhere in the world. Except in Germany I have a lot of more photos if you are in need of images. Look here what stuff they have at Rechlin. This was a very enjoable day, indeed! (not to mention cruising the Autobahn with 200 km/h speed the whole way ) Enjoy! - dutik
  22. 22 points
    Grunticus

    Revell 1/32 Me 262-A1 (2019 kit)

    Hello all, It's finished. Nice kit, fought me sometimes, but fought myself too with utter stupidity sometimes Only stencils are decals, the rest were made with home-made masks. Special thanks to @Jennings Heilig for his kind assistance with the Werksnummer! For my next build, an He-162, I will pay more attention to preservation and/or restoration of the few panel lines that kit has. Kind of blew that on this build. Still, I'm happy with the outcome. Hope you like!
  23. 22 points
    Wolf Buddee

    Tamiya 1/32 F4U-1A

    I finished the wing centre section last night and it's ready to be attached to the fuselage. Another milestone, if you will, on this build. The majority of the work on this section was adding the hydraulic lines within the wheel wells. Although the MLG is in place for the photos it hasn't been glued. I made sure that the MLG assemblies could be removed beforehand as it fits very positively. I have to admit that I had the good fortune of picking up on some of the detail painting help John Kim received while building his Corsair. Cheers, Wolf
  24. 22 points
    discus

    Mirage 2000C 1/32 KH

    Hello The lock down built... and a bit more since we are unlocked since 11th may in France. A lot was already said on this kit: weird/wrong choices on some parts (extended slats only forcing to some surgery to correct this), many mistakes in the instruction sheet (wrong part items, left and righ side inverted, etc) poor decal sheet, etc. Anyway, in the end the kit is not so bad. It is rather a good one and I had a lot of fun building it (despite the negs mentioned above). One important thing when building a KH kit: you need to be well documented. The box is full of stuff but if you want to be accurate you need to do some research by yourself. I used decals from Berna. One slight issue; the white background on the stencils is misaligned and is visible. but it is still way better than the original sheet from the kit. As I did not wanted for the Eduard Pe to be available for the seat harness, I decided to use the pilot provided with the kit. It is quite nice, I just added a visor screen on the helmet and with some leftover PE from previous kit I DIY'd the seat belts and harnesses. Paints are as usual handbrushed. The new thing is that I used Xtracolors instead of the usual Humbrols. (Because the Humbrol are now more cr*p than paint...) I left one week between each coat to be sure it was really dry so the whole painting process is quite long. But its worth waiting, the Xtracolors give a really nice result. For the color, the is a highly scientific random mix... The Mirage 2000 colors are really difficult to catch and they change a lot with the ligh/shadows. Light grey: X395+X136+x141 (60%-30%-10%). X395 is supposed to be mirage 2000 light grey but I found it too dark and not blue-ish enough so I added some light compass grey x136 and lightened with a bit of white. Blue grey: X396+X124 (60%-40%). X396, same thing, it is supposed to be Mirage 2000 dark blue grey but it looked greenish in the can soI mixed it with blue fs15109 (X124). Radome is in Humbrol 64 and engine exhaust in Humbrol metalcote. Edit: for the wing pylons : Hu 56+Hu 24 (75%-25%) and the missiles Hu196. I am looking forwar to get my hands on the twin seater. And just for fun, showing the different between 1/32, 1/48 et 1/72 There is also a noticeable difference in the quality of the built..
  25. 22 points
    HL-10

    Focke Wulf 189

    HPH's kit of the Fw-189. A very advanced resin kit with detail that would make mainstream injection moulding companies quiver with fear to reproduce. Definitely no "shake & bake" kit with a number of challenges, but an enjoyable if taxing build. Painted with Xtracolor enamels and Tamiya acrylics. Thanks for looking. Angelo
  26. 22 points
    Thanks guys! Before I give an update on this build, I wanted to share this photo that my wife had on her phone. I must be around 10-12 years old... early 70's in Virginia. Building a model with some fishing rods in waiting behind me. Some things never change! I spent the weekend wrestling the RB Productions 109G-6 wheel wells into place. First step was to glue the small wheel bumps into place and fill the locating tabs as they can be seen through the open wheel well. Some preliminary removals were in order... the raised wheel well detail on the inside surface of the top wing and the wheel well walls from the wing bottoms. The removals are described in detail on the RB Productions instruction sheet, which is very detailed but the details in the photos, which are probably copies of copies of copies, are sometimes difficult to discern. A bending tool like this Small Shops Bug isn't absolutely necessary but is very useful in making folding easier and more uniform. Some bends take a little creativity and for this tricky u-bend, I used a strand of stiff plastic from a hairbrush to form the "u" around. The roof of the wheel well features several layers of brass to help increase the visual depth of the enhancement set. It usually takes a few iterations of fitting and shaving plastic to get these things into place properly. The main thing is to take your time and not force the brass since the pieces are quite thin and delicate. Once the fit is figured out, you can see how the new wheel wells look in place. I've elected to keep the u-shaped trough that houses the landing gear legs in plastic rather than using the brass piece. The oval openings were drilled out. The PE set provides an optional canvas covering that you sometimes see in the wheel wells of the Bf109. I think I'm going to use them, if I can work them into place. There is some inconsistency with the fit of the rear wheel well wall that the canvas cover will conveniently hide.
  27. 22 points
    Thanks, Criag - and no is the answer. Me and electrics don't really get on, but maybe it's something I should consider in the future. Howdy Partners I hope everyone is faring OK in these strange times. A little more Shackleton progress to update you on... I have been working on getting the cockpit roof attached to the fuselage of late. I spent a fun (not) couple of hours finishing the making of the sills for the transparent parts to sit on when the time comes - Evergreen to the rescue once again: IMG_0191 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr With that done, I made the pilots' overhead panel from some generic bits and bobs from the spares box - not particularly accurate but it's almost impossible to see it once the roof is on - and sprayed the inside of the cockpit roof matt black: IMG_0202 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr A final test-fit then followed to ensure all of the interior fits as it should - which thankfully it did: IMG_0204 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr You can see how little of the interior is actually visible, which is why I haven't really gone to town on the insides. Before finally attaching the roof section I made some more tabs to ensure a strong and secure join, and then masked the windows from the inside to keep dust and future paint out of the flightdeck. I then slathered P-38 automotive filler over the joins and allowed everything to settle for a couple of days before attacking it with the sandpaper. IMG_0207 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr As you can see things have gone reasonably well, but there is a pronounced dip where the cross-hatched area is that'll need more filler. This was due to me not being careful enough when constructing the fuselage but P-38 is the scratch-builder's best friend and it should make light work of this. You can see the 'dip' more clearly when a straight line is superimposed on the pictures: IMG_0209 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr So here's the state of play now - some more filling and sanding over the weekend and then some primer to see how it's all bedded in: IMG_0206 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr Until next time, Tom
  28. 21 points
    My bench is a bit messy again - even after a cleanup. I am busy working on the engines. Printing these large parts on my Photon would not have been possible without the double Z-rail upgrade. The parts need a bit of tweaking and modification but nothing too serious.
  29. 21 points
    williamj

    F6F-3 Hellcat..

    So glad to have finished this one..lot more than anticipated,don't believe I'll be doing another,LOL have a few kits on the bench that I want to get to...Just craved something that looked like a Hellcat,getting the Trump wing in and re building the Has. fuselage was the only way. Did enjoy it but didn't take it to the wall,But still maintain the Hasegawa is the best "looking" kit in our scale..and have seen some really nice builds strait out of the box over the years. Anyhow,thanks for following along and on to the next...perhaps another Yellow wing from the golden age of aviation.haven't decided yet. Link to build..Trumpygawa Hellcat x 2 - Works in Progress - Large Scale Planes Cheers all.Bill.
  30. 21 points
  31. 21 points
    Cheetah11

    Gulf War Tornado F3

    Here is the Tornado. I finished it towards the end of last year but has just been a little lazy in photographing it. Revell kit with all the necessary changes scratch built. Enjoy. Nick
  32. 21 points
    Steve, it definitely makes life much easier. I did most of this kind of stuff by hand before the Viking, now everything is quicker and more precise. Marco, thanks for your kind words! I don't think the Photon can handle Antialiasing, if I am not mistaken only the Photon S can do that. The fuselage was not printed with groove lines because they were not included in the CAD files. The Skywarrior is based on a file I have bought, I only made it printable and used it as a base for my model. the parts I have drawn myself do have groove lines and surface detail. A NURBS based progream would certainly be better suited for this kind of task, but I neither have the software nor the knowledge to use it, so I have to work with what I have! In the meantime, I have done some more "classic" modelling. The rear portion of the refuelling probe is a mix of 3D printed parts and slide fit tube from Albion Alloys. The forward portion will be fitted at the very end to avoid damage - very easy thanks to the perfectly fitting tubes.
  33. 20 points
    Hey all I won’t torture you with every rivet picture- but this part took me so long I felt like I had to photograph it! cheers Pete
  34. 20 points
    airscale

    1/18 Focke-Wulf Fw190C V18 'Känguruh'

    Evening all Not a huge amount to report as only had limited time at the bench in the last few days, but a few more bits done.. First the rudder pedals – here are the main parts from the PE I designed.. ..these were folded up and can be seen at the top, while all the other components that make up the complex casting and the two layers of heel stop are below.. ..these were assembled so that the main bits were all together.. ..and then assembled with some footstraps from lead.. I need to find some better references for the pistons and brackets that these fit to before going any further.. moving to the radiator – you can see on the front face there are some kind of structure at top and bottom, with the upper one having some kind of thing on it – I thought it was maybe an engine logo, but settled on some sort of filler cap.. I sound vague, because this is all I have to go on.. ..I painted and added the PE radiator fronts and the spoke type things and made up the upper and lower shapes as best I could from tracings from that photo.. ..they look a lighter colour to me so tried to make a sort of anodised / RLM 02 style colour.. ..and what they look like on the model.. ..and that’s it – told you it wasn’t a lot TTFN Peter
  35. 20 points
    My Photon has been upgraded with a double Z-rail and is currently busy printing the engines - finally no layer shifts anymore! As the parts are so big, printing takes a lot of time, so I decided to add some raised rivet detail to the seats. I did not add these raised rivets to the CAD data as they would have been destroyed duwing sanding anyway. After a coat of primer, the seat belts will be added.
  36. 20 points
    mozart

    EE Lightning - Echelon vacuform

    Yup, it's a Lightning alright! Wings and tail fin temporarily in place: The lower edge of the tail fin isn't a great fit, sharp corners to edges just aren't possible with vacuform moulds, so I'll be adding some strips of thin plastic to the fin to "bridge that gap".
  37. 20 points
    Piero

    1/32 MiG-23BN, Czech Air Force 1991

    ... CIAO! Piero
  38. 20 points
    Oldbaldguy

    My Carpet Monster and Me

    I've been trying for the past two weeks or so to open a dialog with my carpet monster. I am perfectly happy to have a carpet monster and I am open to trying to understand its needs and the unique contributions it makes to my little world, but we seem to lack an acceptable level of shared understanding, our lives being so different and all. I come and go as I please, with shoes and without, and am not above spilling, scuffing, scraping and grinding unsavory things into my carpet monster with complete indifference. It, on the other hand, must stay where I put it, suffer a multitude of indignities without complaint because it has no voice and, let's face it, its view of the world never changes. Still, you'd think we could reach a middle ground since we share the same space and air and love of modelling, but no. My carpet monster delights in catching parts I drop from my bench before throwing them a distance and direction that violate the common laws of physics. The number of intimate hours I've spent on my belly, cheek to cheek with my carpet monster, flashlight in hand, as it leads me on a merry and fruitless chase would astound the world. In all fairness, sometimes it gives up before I do and lets me win, but lately the parts disappear forever into its fibrous innards, leaving no trace, not even telltale plastic pellets in its carpet monster poop. So what is it doing? Is it trying to accumulate enough bits and pieces to build a kit of its own? Lord knows, I've dropped enough parts and spilled enough glue and paint that it could, but I think there is something more nefarious afoot here. I think it has come to realize that it has a degree of power over me because it knows the secrets of where these bits are but I never will; that it knows it can live in my age-addled brain rent free for all my days simply because we both know that my model, although finished, is not complete; that it is playing some sort of carpet monster chess without telling me the rules. Whatever the reason, it seems to be winning. But I know something my carpet monster doesn't: Nothing lasts forever. It can be replaced with something more compliant and cooperative and find itself in a dumpster somewhere in the rain, living with flies and rats and such. Ha! How would you like that, Mr Carpet Monster?? Would you like that? Being all soggy and gross and wadded up in a place that has never even heard of a vacuum cleaner?? I like to think I am bigger than that but you should know, I've already met a better looking, more model friendly fake wood floor and we're talking about maybe making a future together but I'd rather not go there if we don't have to. I like you Mr Carpet Monster; you keep my feet warm and I can scrunch you with my toes. Just give me my parts back and maybe we can talk about it.
  39. 20 points
    Thanks Jay! I'm pretty happy with how they came out; still a bit of work to do on them but for now, they need something to mount them on... As you may recall a while ago I attempted to correct the outboard nacelles being too high on the wing. My first iteration was to cut the whole nacelle out and mount it lower, which was okay, but still required a lot of reshaping and work and was not repeatable for the at least two more B-17 projects I'd like to undertake in the future. I then hit on the idea of cutting out a whole section of wing which could then be cast and replace the existing nacelle in its entirety. I spent an exorbatent amount of time and effort replicating the turbocharger recesses into a redrawn nacelle in the correct position on the wing, and while the trial print worked perfectly well in ABS on the FDM machine, it took 10 attempts on the photo to get something that looked good enough to work with. I also made the assumption that because they were on different sides, the turbochargers must be left and right as well? Turns out that was a poor assumption - they are exactly the same both sides.... which meant my tenth attempt at the print was also no good How it's supposed to look: How mine turned out: After much head scratching, I hit on the idea of using a mix of the kit parts and the redesigned nacelles, as THEN I could be sure the turbochargers would fit! Unfortunately, that meant a whole lot of grinding resin, which is most unpleasant due to the powder but also to my surprise, when I cut into the piece it was STILL filled with uncured resin What a mess! I can see now why some people put drain holes in their prints. Funny thing is, this only happened on one side, not the other. Same drawing too.... weird! Eventually I had it ground down to the point where I could graft the kit ones in. Unfortunately that was not the end of my troubles. Another nasty little surprise was waiting for me in that due to the way the prints turned out, there was no way I could ascertain a reliable flat and square reference point when attaching the nacelles back into the wing! Yep, winning all round!!!! I finally resigned to the fact that despite the effort I'd gone through to make the resin prints work (even with alignment holes) the whole lot was a massive failure and needed to be binned. Happily though, remember how I said the ABS prints worked perfectly? Well after digging them out of the draw (lucky I kept them) and doing exactly the same thing, I finally arrived at what I'd been trying to do. Still a long way from being finished, but I'm finally back on track after a lot of setbacks. Once these are ready, I'll be casting them in reliable silicone rubber moulds the old fashioned way!!!!!! Cheers, Craig
  40. 19 points
    Piero

    1/32 MiG-23BN, Czech Air Force 1991

    Hello, this is my MiG-23BN, black 9139, of the 28th fighter-bomber squadron, Czech Air Force, based at Caslav Air Base. . The port wing of this airplane was replaced with another at the end of the 1990 or beginning of 1991, and therefore has slightly different shades of the basic colors. The reason for the heart-shaped patch is unknown... In this this way, 9139 also flew without the bird-head marking, and only had the city crest on the armour plates. This airplane suffered also a bird-strike and repairs includes the replacement of the port intake ramp and bleed air vents that was sprayed in non-standard green paint. The model is based on the Trumpeter MiG-23MF converted in the BN using the HpH resin conversione set. Some other details came from: Eduard's PE sheets Two Mikes resin cockpit Master's metal pitot tube True Details's resin KM-1 ejection seat Quickboost resin ventral fin Quickboost resin control stick Quickboos resin FODs Decals are a mix from the kit, HpH conversion set and Linden Hill's decal sheet. Colors are a mix of Gunze, Tamiya and AK Real Colors acrylics. Enjoy the pictures. ...
  41. 19 points
    July 1, 2020 Happy Canada Day! Not that happy these days? Either am I, but we all truck on, don’t we? Steps 13 to 16 on Page 6 of the instructions are all a blur of assembling the resin seat, adding HGW fabric seatbelts and getting the entire cockpit assembled into one unit before installing it into the front fuselage halves. Here are Steps 13-15: Before I did anything, however, I dry fit the resin seat to the cockpit cage, since seat supports I59 and I71 have variable angles, so it’s better to glue them to the seat installed than after the fact. I found this fit to be a struggle, since the lower seat support I79 didn’t fit the seat very well. After many dry fit attempts, I wound up gluing the seat from the bottom, despite the poor fit. Despite this, it looks OK. But you can see that the seat was glued a bit higher than the tabs on the sides, exposing them slightly on the bottom. I then painted and detailed the seat according to a few references, then added the HGW fabric seatbelts. The top of the seat was painted the same canvas color as the belts, the cord at the top was picked out with brush paint and the seat was heavily worn by dry brushing brown paint over a black base. The seat belts were also heavily worn, by wrinkling them and adding oil stain pastels to add staining. The belts included in my kit were a bit of a mixed bag. While I appreciated the fact that they were already pre-cut, which is a big bonus to other HGW belts I have used, the stitching on them was almost nonexistent. These belts are almost identical to the “Late Spitfire” belts I used on my last build of a NA Harvard, so I already had instructions to compliment the kit ones. I recommend you find these instructions on-line before attempting assembly, which was done entirely with CA glue. I posed the shoulder harnesses a bit high to separate them from the bottom, since they can be pushed upward over the seat back on the real deal. Excuse some of the belt "fuzz" that has since been removed. I recommend you don’t glue the “towel bars”, Parts I67 and I70 into place before you add the belts, because the clearance behind the bars is barely enough to allow the seat belt hardware to pass through. The end of the shoulder harness should be glued to the inside of the upper seat support, I71. Seat glued into place, which is quite a complicated feat with all the other parts of the cockpit cage fit and glued at the same. For wiring, I added only one line from left throttle to the rear. Only one! First of all, there doesn’t seem to be a lot of super obvious electrical and hydraulic lines visible in the references I have, as found on a Spitfire. Most of the cables are tucked underneath. Second, as you will soon see below, you won’t be able to see much of it anyway, so why bother? Step 16 has you add the instrument decals, which I’ve already done. But I also added the Mk II Gyro Gunsight, mounted on Part J21, used on a Mk II Tempest. 2 Holes were drilled at the top of the instrument panel to accept the gunsight mount. For the gunsight, I used the kit resin one, but the glass and overhead shade were sourced from my last Tamiya Spitfire build, because they were more solid than the kit PE and thin acetate glass. Decals for the gunsight were sourced from Barracuda for this same kit. Here’s a bit of a walkaround. The main reason I added the gunsight now, rather than in Step 40 as per the instructions, was to ensure that the gunsight would fit under the windscreen. It does, but barely, so make sure you mount the gunsight at the very front of the mount. The windscreen also fits poorly and isn’t molded very well, so it will need a lot of work to get it installed and glued cleanly. Now a bit of a disappointment. With all the work I did in the cockpit, you can barely see any of it from the top with the fuselage halves together. At least the Spitfire has a big door that is left open to peek inside, but from the top, this is all you see, which is very hard to photograph. Oh well, at least I know it’s all in there, which is why I didn’t bother with a lot of wiring that will never be seen, especially from the top angle. On to Steps 17 to 27, which includes the new Barracuda nose assembly. Cheers, Chuck
  42. 19 points
    discus

    Mirage IIIc 1/32 Italeri

    Hello After KH Miragge 2000, I decided to go back in time with this Mirage IIIc from Italeri I built the IIIe version some times ago and I new what to expect: kit is rather good but there are few shortcomings. Notably the nose cone adjustment: it is wider than the fuselage so sanding and putty are in order. Then the fairing round the exhaust and the vertical tail plan are quite tricky due to very small contact surfaces with the fuselage parts (especially for the fairing, if the photoetch frame is not presicely installed, there is no contact surface anymore. After several dry fit tests, I decided not to follow the sequence of steps from the instructions. Some addons I used: Pitot from Masters PE from Eduard for the seat and cockpit panels Resin wheels from reskit The squadron insigna is from an old Berna decal sheet for a 1/48 Super Mystere B2 if I remember well. It happens that it is nearly the right size for the 1/32 Mirage IIIc. Lucky me. Handbrush painting as usual : Humbrol 230 "pru Blue" for the top. For the lower part and the fuel tank, I tried vallejo metal colors. I must say I love them. I found by chance a video on YT (dogma72 - Brushing Vallejo Metal Color) showing how to brush them. It is a bit unatural way of working but it worked well: in fact you dry brush them. I put a layer of vallejo black primer then I used a large square brush, with nearly no paint on it and brush the surface. I did 3 or 4 layer, waiting overnight between each. Result is to my opinion close to what you could have with an airbrush. Not brush marks. Pigments are much thinner than the Humbrol Metal cote and the range of colors is wide. I used aluminum 701 and for some parts pale burnt aluminum 704 (it is not really visible on the photos due to lighting conditions). I also used jet exhause 713 for the stove pipe I had a lot of fun with this kit. A pair of French Deltas
  43. 19 points
    Pressing on! having good luck so far. I measure each run with the dividers, then transfer that measurement to the decal. I trim the decals pretty tight. Solvaset has all but eliminated the carrier film. I avoid the temptation to do one long continuous run- it is much easier to keep every rivet line straight if you butt shorter lengths. cheers Pete
  44. 19 points
    my last built, enjoy :
  45. 19 points
    Finally, the Special Hobby 1/32 P-400 is complete! This kit is pretty rough and is more or less and upscaled version of the Eduard 1/48th scale P-39. As such, it doesn't fit together all that well, and the details are pretty chunky. To make matters worse, both the build and the paint processes fought me at pretty much every turn. This is the second time I started a SH P-39 of some variety... the first attempt yielded me nothing more than a paint mule because the kit fit is so lousy. In any case, I'm really happy with how it ultimately turned out, though it took ~6 months to get here. I added the Eduard PE seatbelt and interior set and used a set of Montex masks for the goofy-but-historically-accurate shark's mouth. Is it perfect? No, but I'm pretty stoked. This is meant to represent an aircraft of the 67th Fighter Squadron as it fought desperately to hold the line against the Japanese on Guadalcanal. The P-400 is the British export version of the P-39 and featured a 20mm Hispano Suiza cannon in place of the more traditional 37mm refrigerator thrower. Rejected by the British, they were transferred to the USAAF who dubbed them (no doubt tongue-in-cheek) P-400's because that's supposedly the top speed the aircraft was supposed to be able to reach. P-39s and P-400s were handled roughly by the Japanese in the Guadalcanal campaign, and without a supercharger, they couldn't climb high enough to hit the bombers they were built to intercept. Nevertheless, their pilots fought valiantly despite their fighters' inferiority and were pivotal in stopping the Japanese advance in the SW Pacific. I have a thing for underdogs and the P-39/P-400 is pretty much defines "underdog." There's a saying that goes, "the P-40 and P-39 didn't win the war, but they sure as hell made sure we didn't lose it."
  46. 19 points
    Warbird

    Polikarpov I-16 Type 28 - ICM 1/32

    Hi All, A cool kit that fits very well and offers plenty of room for improvement for those motivated. I have detailed the cockpit (scratch), thin all trailing edges, wheel doors, cockpit doors. Made the cannons and pitot using steel tubes. Marking made using a Silhouette machine. Base paint is Gunze H323 and H423 (labelled "RLM83") but this has been reworked. Cheers. Tristan Some pics under the (strong) spotlights And some pics outside, mostly under a cloudy weather.
  47. 19 points
    What? No one likes the retro pic? Too personal? Ok... back to business... I fiddled with the resin prop yesterday. I used a piece of aluminum tube to serve as the prop shaft. The Barracuda jig that helps line up the prop blades to spinner also comes with a guide to center the hole in the back of the prop. The hole came out a little messy but it is centered. The prop assembly is a friction fit so that I can remove it for shipping. The blades still need to be removed from their casting blocks and cleaned up. Jumping over to the wings, I noticed a nice manufacturing touch... Hasegawa thoughtfully prints the part number on the back of the radiator faces. Saves me the trouble of scratching them on myself. The wheels wells were primed using Mr Primer Surfacer 1000. The packaging states that it can be used on metal surfaces. I then sprayed the wheel wells RLM 02 Grey over a black base just to try and get some tonal depth. I added a small drainage pipe to the front edge of the oil cooler intake. The intake has been riveted.
  48. 19 points
    Thanks Gentlemen - I am quite happy with the current progress indeed. The camera blisters are not fitted and puttied. I have also added the surrounding strengthener which I have cut on my Silhouette, but I have not yet photographed it. The LH side elevator base is ready as well, the RH side one currently doesn't print properly - no idea why.
  49. 18 points
    mozart

    EE Lightning - Echelon vacuform

    The wings are on, all looks pretty good......I can't swear that the anhedral is exactly 5 deg. but there is anhedral and it looks right-ish so that's OK. I ran a bead of Milliput along the wing/fuselage gap, though I've seen worse on IM kits, so well done Echelon! I think, after the tail plane is fitted, a coat of primer might be in order before I start addressing all the other lumps n' bumps!
  50. 18 points
    ericg

    1000 Hours Mirage buggy

    The idea for this build was conceived when I saw a picture of this buggy and remembered that my good friend Sean Trestrail had a ride in it back in the eighties at RAAF Butterworth upon reaching the milestone of 1000 hours of flight time in the Mirage III. This model was mostly scratch built and the details are as follows. Tractor: Heavily modified Aerobonus G-40C United Tractor, with; Scratch built Cargo basket, Rear lights, 2 x tow hitches, Forward spotlight, 3 x different seats, Custom printed number plates. Modified bonnet. Trailer: Scratch built except for the wheels. Custom printed number plate that spells COUPED if you were to type it out on your phone keypad... a nod to my good mate Dave Coupe who designed and printed the decals for me. Buggy: Scratch built. Custom printed decals. Figure: Heavily modified from several different sources. My first attempt at a figure... Be kind! All snatch straps and buckles, and the spare chocks were scratch built. Many thanks to Sean Trestrail, Dave Coupe and Max Johnson
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