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  1. The Hurricane wing is a complex design that combines a horizontal middle section to which are attached outer sections that feature a dihedral as well as swept-back leading edge and swept-forward trailing edges, all of which have an aerofoil cross section that causes the wing to change from "fat" at the front to "thin" at the back. This means that by simply changing the angle of the camera, the wing will look differently. In any case, as I explained earlier in the thread, the model wing has the correct dihedral. The "flat wing" that you see in these photos is a visual artefact caused by the above-mentioned combination of the wing's many angles and the viewing angle of the camera. Here are some photos of the assembled test shot that I have in my possession. I also added a ruler to indicate the "horizontal". The propeller was removed for clarity. Please keep in mind that this is an even earlier test shot than that shown by Revell, so the final product will be different in some places. Also, this test shot was assembled in haste (test shot, not a competition model) so please ignore any assembly issues, glue blobs, uncleaned attachment points, etc that you may see. Just to give you an idea of how fickle camera vieweing angles are, have a look at the change in the angle of the wing top and bottom that happens if the camera is moved up and down just a couple of centimetres - this is caused by the fact that the wing not only has a dihedral but it also has a swept-back leading edge. It is subtle, but I am sure that you can see it. In any case, please be assured that the kit wing has the correct dihedral. I really hope this helps. Radu
    51 points
  2. Here is my recently completed build of the Hasegawa 1/32 Fw190D-9 Late Variant depicted as Brown 4 (Werk Number 500647). The aftermarket items used in this build are: 1. Eagle Editions Fw 190D Resin Cockpit 2. Quickboost Fw 190A-7/A-9 Resin Gun Barrels 3. Synthetic Ordnance Works Fw 190A/D Landing Gear 4. Eagle Editions Fw 190 Cigar Drop Tank 5. Eduard Fw 190D PE Flaps 6. Eduard Fw190D Canopy Masks - always, when available! 7. HGW fabric seatbelts 8. Henri Daehne VS-111 Resin Prop and Spinner 9. Eduard Fw 190D Exterior Set 10. 1ManArmy Fw190D Data Stencil Masks Major markings were painted using custom cut mask produced with the Silhouette Portrait cutter. The full build can be accessed at the following link:
    46 points
  3. This time a model without many signs of weathering. SH-60F Ocan Hawk Kitty Hawk 1:35
    41 points
  4. Hello, this is my JA37 "Jakt" Viggen build using the Jetmads resin kit. All paints are acrylic Gunze and Tamiya references. This model represents a JA37 sn 37378 F4-38 in March 1999 with the rear fuselage scetion in natural metal. Enjoy the pictures. CIAO! Piero
    39 points
  5. Model: • 1/32 F-117A Trumpeter Real plane: • F-117A, 88-0843, "Affectionately Christine", April 2008, Holloman AFB. Time before last flight to Palmdale for "retired to storage" = new paint ("Star and Stripes") on underside, lightly cleaned topside. Work time: • 8 month (approx 400 hours) Full detailed build description (step by step + a lot of photos...) you can see there: https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=136840 Commercial Accessories : • AIR2187, AIRES resin cockpit, AIR2187 • 632013, Eduard, resin bombs GBU-24 • 632169, Eduard, resin bombs GBU-10 Paveway II • RS32-0290, Reskit, resin bombs GBU-24 A-B • 32754, Eduard, photo etched parts - belts • 32316, Eduard, photo etched parts - exterier • 32315, Eduard, photo etched parts - bomb bay • 32744, Eduard, photo etched parts - interier • 32508, 32942, Eduard, placards • XL520, Eduard paint mask • JX141, Eduard, 2x Canopy mask • 135503, HGW, textile straps • AW32305, Armory, wheels F-117 • 32013, Profimodeller, photo etched parts: undercarriage • TF15, hollografic foil Hasegawa NEW Accesories: • Omask, Masks for insignias and codes, • Omask, Masks for field of stars, • Omask, decals for bombs and bomb covers, • Plastic profilles, wires... Books: • Internet • Squadron/signal, Aircraft no 115 • Aces High Magazine - Gulf War • Haynes Owners´Workshop manual, 1981 – Present Colors: • Gunze C + MRP • Weathering: AK In conclusion, but result: One of the worst model/build ever, but One of the best F-117A ever! NOTE: all photos were made by mobile-phone... https://images2.imgbox.com/e2/38/Buaoh8bR_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/20/36/Lvt7eu7M_o.jpg _________________________________
    38 points
  6. P-40M P/O Geoff B.Fisken, 14.Sq. RNZAF, Guadalcanal Project 22/22 1/32 Hasegawa model, Avionix cockpit, Eduard instrument panel & seat belts, exhaust, wheels, homemade painting mask. All colours MRP
    37 points
  7. A Quick barrage of photos... I apologize for the background... but the light was too 'right' to let the opportunity pass. Thank you for looking! Quote
    37 points
  8. I've tried to recreate a vignette, based this photo of one of the planes of Matsuo Hagiri together with some of his 'colleagues' on board the carrier Soryo. The Special Hobby kit is 'High tech' in the sense that it's including resin details of the engine and cockpit, as well as fret of photoetched details. https://www.specialhobby.eu/en/1/1/a5m4-claude-hi-tech-1-32.html?&listtype=search&searchparam=A5M4 Build thread is here: https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/94082-mitsubishi-a5m4-the-father-of-the-zero/ Thanks for looking.... Cheers: Kent
    37 points
  9. This was supposed to be a quick little side project to give me an excuse to print something on my Elegoo Saturn 3D printer, but like most of my projects, dragged on and got more complicated. I decided to try to recreate the metallic effects and overall weathering as close to what we see on screen as possible, and late in the piece, I decided it needed a base for stability purposes. So what was supposed to take a few days has ended up taking a few months, but here it is. Thanks for looking! Now I need to get back to one of my many unfinished aircraft projects! Kev
    37 points
  10. Hello everyone, Here are some pictures of my F-16D taken from my book "Hangar No 1" co-created with the the excellent modeler Jarek Rydzu Rydzyński. Academy model with several additions including: - Cockpit: Wolfpack WP32030 - Canopy: Eduard 32692 - Wheel Bays: Aires 2129 - Exaust Nozzle: KASL Hobby K32002 - Decals: Techmod 32057 Happy modeling my friends, Rene joycraft.ca
    36 points
  11. Some small details that might be easy to miss... On the starboard landing gear retraction arm, I've added a small wire to represent the tail wheel retraction cable. Drain ports augmented with brass tubing. Pitot tube and wing tip light. I've added small tabs fashioned from PE sprue to the canopy. This will "pinch" the canopy in a little when it is in the open position. The only remaining things to be done are the aerial and the landing gear indicators. Finished photos should be coming soon!
    35 points
  12. This time the most difficult model I've worked on. In addition, I received it already started. As it turned out, a lot of parts missing for example side windows. The model is difficult, the instructions are terrible, in fact, I can only recommend it to very advanced modellers. WESTLAND WESSEX HU.5 SKY 1:32
    34 points
  13. Project 24/22 1/32 Trumpeter kit, Real Model 2020 air interes & Radom. Aires detail set, air scoop, braky shute & correct tail fin, All colours MRP
    33 points
  14. Great news in my mail box Cheers, Quang
    32 points
  15. Hallo Everyone, I would like introduce my new project B-25J. Basically it´s a HK models kit + Eduard, Profimodellers details set and my scratch. For me, this model is step to the correct reproduction of NMF surface, which I need for still opened P-51 The Enchantress. So I start with the cocpit. Thanks for the comments
    32 points
  16. Morning all, Like 99% of those who enjoy building large scale Phantoms, I've been eagerly awaiting a 1/32nd scale RR Spey powered version for as long as I can remember. There is of course the Wild Hare conversion that usually sells for more than my car is worth (on the rare occasion one actually comes up for sale) and rumours are abound that HK were looking at doing one, but I thought life's too short to wait around any longer and it's time to start hacking about at the classic Tamiya F-4J kit. Before I go any further, it's important to say that this is not going to be wholly accurate and the majority of this is being done with the MkI eyeball and approximate measurements. I'm simply not interested in this (or any of my models for that matter!) being accurate to the nearest half-mill, and therefore what you'll see is something that (hopefully) will look like a British Phantom but won't necessarily be the definitive way to go about such a conversion - you'll need to check @Anthony in NZ's rather epic thread for that! I wasn't going to run a WIP for this as I was concerned about burn-out and failure, but I've actually come a lot further in a short space of time that I had initially anticipated, and I think broken the back of this conversion, so thought I'd share my efforts just in case there's someone else out there considering the same thing... I thought I'd begin somewhere nice and simple, so tackled the belly of the beast and the inlet doors on the underside. The UK Phantoms have these further forward than the US examples, so it was a case of cutting out the new doors in their forward position, and filling the old ones with plastic card blanks: These were then filled, re-scribed and given a quick squirt of primer: Step one complete! The next step was the far trickier intakes. The Speys demanded more air and thus the intakes were significantly wider than the US versions. There is much debate and head-scratching about how exactly the shapes differ, but I've done a bit of digging around and modified mine as I see fit. In 1/32nd scale, my calculations work out that the intakes are roughly 3mm wider at the front than the US examples. Therefore, I sourced some 3mm strip and carefully cut the kit intake sections in half, front to back, adjacent to the grills on the inner edges of the intakes (the pictures will explain this better). Here you can see how much wider the UK version intakes are than the US version - quite a significant gap emerges when test fitted to the unmodified rear sections: To remedy this, the fuselage will of course need widening too, and the shaded area in the picture below shows the section in need of modification: To do this, horizonal cuts are made along the top of the intake trunking, with vertical cuts made to allow the section to be opened up. There is a lower horizontal cut, too, made at the wing root to allow to original kit fixings to mate together for strength whilst allowing the wider intake to slot over the upper wing surface: A wedge of plastic card in then inserted, with the forward-most part being 3mm in width to match the modified intakes: Lots of reinforcement was given to the interior too: I'm going to use FOD guards on mine as life is too short to tackle the notorious intake interiors on this kit, but if you were to have them open a further 'wedge' would be needed to plug the gap seen above. Before I went any further, I wanted to check the modified fuselage would allow the wings to fit - which by luck more than careful calculation they did! The modified intakes were then test-fitted to the modified fuselage: Before they were glued firmly into place and allowed to set for 24 hours: The join wasn't perfect but considering the amount of butchery that went on I was pleasantly surprised. Some Milliput White soon made light work of the affected areas: And after some re-scribing and a shot of primer, things look good! You can see in the picture above I have started work on the back end and opened up the extra doors the Spey versions have on the rear fuselage. I'm going a later version with the pod on the top of the fin, so plans were consulted and a rough shape made for these from plastic card laminates: This still needs an awful lot of refining and surface detail added, but it's a good start. I'm now going to have to concentrate on getting the cockpit done and then I can begin hacking about at the rear end. The Spey exhausts are a fair bit bigger than the US ones, so the hacksaw and filler are at the ready! When done, I'll update this again... All the best, Tom
    31 points
  17. Second part which is partly finished is Bendix upper turret. By the internet source I made a missing parts on the upper part of the turret, it´s close to the origin I hope. After installing of guns to the turret I would like also install the bullet transport cones and, if will be possible also ammunition belts....
    31 points
  18. WE DID IT! finally after a good few years of trying Best in Show SIG! Many thanks to all involved, my ONLY gripe, the awards were presented late in the day (around 15.00 ish) so wa were denied the opportunity to really rack up those gloat points. Highlights ?, the win (obviously), Kotare Spitfire is simply beautiful and HK A 20, who, have again raised the bar. The new release even includes subtle oil canning. I have a test shot to build I will report more as I go. I will post a few of my photos up when I get 5 but I must say Im creamed! it was a really busy weekend and soooo nice to catch up with everyone. @npb748ryou are likely being to hard on yourself. build for yourself, if you get positive comments on your work then thats a bonus, if someone provides constructive criticisim then that too is a bonus. if you get negative comments without context then they are not worth worrying about so wins all round really. I would encourage you to bring one or two of your builds to the table, I think youll be surprised.
    31 points
  19. With all of the Luftwaffe builds that have been taking place here I was inspired to finally start my Zoukei Mura Hs.129B-2 after a hiatus from aircraft builds. I'm a fan of the Zoukei Mura kits and have built five so far. This should be number six! I'll be building the B-2RIII seen on page 14 of the Concept Note, "Red T" apparently from SchG.1 at El Aouina airfield in Tunisia, in RLM 70/71/65 with an RLM79 pattern painted over: Aftermarket: My first task was to rivet the airframe: Engines next! Cheers, Tom
    30 points
  20. The dihedral on the top of the wing is actually 0.85 degrees. The "level" difference between the highest points of the outer and middle sections of the wing is 0.53 mm (or 0.02086614 inches) in scale 1/32. Because of the wing geometry, the wing angles change depending on the viewing direction. HTH Radu
    30 points
  21. Thanks for the comments! Appreciated as always! Thank you John! I'm not sure I agree about these late war Luftwaffe aircraft not seeing a high degree of wear and tear. The photos I've been looking at seem to indicate otherwise, generally speaking. While I agree that fuel shortages probably severely limited flying time, perhaps it was offset somewhat by the lack of maintenance and poorer standards of material, assembly and painting. While I did not mimic it verbatim, I used photos Blue 12 (500570) as a rough indicator of how Brown 4 might have faired, from a weathering perspective. Thanks Matt! Not happy with how this particular application of salt weathering turned out either but I'm adjusting it to suit. At the moment, I am using Model Master Flat Acryl thinned with 90% iso alcohol as it does not like either Tamiya Acrylic Thinner nor Mr Leveling Thinner. It is still susceptible to frosting as the finish gets flatter. That's why I stopped at this somewhat satin sheen for Brown 4. I'm still looking for a clear flat that will give me a dead flat finish WITHOUT frosting. Almost approaching the finish line on this one. Checking to see the fit of the external bits that were finished earlier like the Eduard PE flaps. Friction is enough at the three attachment points to keep each flap in place without glue so I can slip these on and off as necessary. Some adjustments need to made (shaving the landing gear door extensions that I added) to make the landing gear fit. Not glued in yet... just checking things out. I've reached a point where I won't be spraying anything on the fuselage, at least near the cockpit anyway, so off come the paint masks on the clear parts. There was a bit of overspray that crept into the windshield on the starboard side but I was able to gently scrub it away with a wooden toothpick moistened with water. I've added some chipping using a silver pencil.
    30 points
  22. I got this model as a cast off from a friend reducing his "never going to build it" pile. Some parts had already been removed from the sheets, some were just roughly separated and a few were still attached. A couple of holes had been drilled to start the side windows. I'm not sure if my friend had done the drilling because they're kinda crude and not normally the kind of work he does/did. Knowing I was going to attempt this and Engines and Things having a going out of business sale, I went ahead and ordered a couple of radial power plants for it in resin. This probably won't be a continuous build from start to finish but a little here and there (gap filling between other projects) until I get to a point where the momentum builds and it takes off (airplane pun there) A couple of images: what came in the bag by way of instructions and parts; one fuselage half with pre-drilled big ugly holes; "Engines and Things" engine, 1 of 2 obviously work has begun; The previously drilled holes still seen behind the first cabin window (top fuse half) my F-up bottom half. (I'll fix those later) The model comes with a vac formed full cockpit glazing but, I figured I'd try my luck at carving out the frames and making my own windows, in progress here; Thanks for looking
    29 points
  23. olgerd83

    1/32 Roden Fokker D.VI

    Hi everyone. Here is my latest finished project - Roden Fokker D.VI. The model was completed almost OOB with HGW seat belts and machine gun cowls. I used acryl and oil paint to paint propeller, dry pigments and water brown wash for oil leaks. Hope you will enjoy it.
    29 points
  24. Thank you! I use magnifiers when working and using those really helped refine my technique. I find that if I can make it look ok under extreme magnification, it's going to look good to the naked eye. Good photographs accomplish the same thing and I often notice little errors by reviewing my work photographically. Frustrated at the delay of couple of shipments including the Yahu panel. There are a multitude of other things that I can proceed with without working on the cockpit so I found one of those today. I noticed that this port was not molded completely. The shape was kind of weird too, as the horizontal lines followed the curvature of the forward fuselage. I don't have any parallelogram templates so the new one will have to be square. First, I fill in the old panel lines with black CA glue. Shot with some CA activator, it is ready to sand. The template of the panel is placed on the model and secured in place with tape. For me, this is the most important step. I learned from experience that holding the template with just your fingers is a recipe for a shoddy scribing job. Using a sewing needle chucked into a pin vise, I scribe the new panel. Lightly at first and then with a little more pressure as the groove deepens. I'm going through both plastic and the harder CA glue so it is important to keep constant pressure on the needle as it goes around the template. If the needle gets caught on something, don't force it through. Instead, trace around in the opposite direction to see if you can get through that spot smoothly. The horizontal line that you see within the new panel is a pencil guide mark that I used to guide re-placement of the template after the first attempt. Once you are able to make complete circuits around the panel in both directions, the template can be removed. The new panel is cleaned up by tracing the panel with needle, giving it a light sanding and using a stiff paint brush to remove the sanding burrs and dust. Lightly running Tamiya Extra Thin cement into the panel lines can also help to smooth them out. With all of the visual interference from the old panel lines, it's hard to see what I've done so I spray a light coat of primer to check my work. After the primer is dry, I can replace the circular fasteners with a beading tool.
    28 points
  25. 28 points
  26. Ok so I think I am going to pause on the cockpit for now as I dont want to risk damaging or getting dust inside that I cant remove or fix later. Just trimmed @Ali62 beautiful front windscreen (perfect fit) and temp sitting in situ. I am so happy with it. Of course me being me now...I have added an edging to the rear 'hoop' where the canopy section closes onto and locks and seals. Blended in with a little JB Weld for strength. There is definitely more to go in the cockpit but it's time to move back to the internals of the fuse so I can get the wing on. Cheers Anthony
    27 points
  27. Thanks! Few more details added to the rear bulkhead to match Brit FG.1 layout in late mod state. And sidewalls have also been changed quite a lot, sorry I dont have a pic of what the Avionics parts looked like before I started removing stuff and adding extras. But this is pretty much what an FG.1 front sidewalls should look like, locking mechanism connecting rods to be added and then hopefully this weekend I can epoxy the front tub in Righty....off to bed Cheers Anthony
    27 points
  28. Thanks guys! Like I said, I got the idea from a Youtube video by Doogs so I can't take credit for the idea but I adapted it to fit my needs. I still haven't gotten all of my aftermarket stuff yet so I can't go full bore into the cockpit just yet. However, here is a small detail that I've worked up... These are small pulleys for the rudder cables that lead from the rudder pedals to the rear of the cockpit. They were fashioned from punched circles of sheet brass and plastic. My initial idea is to use elastic thread to maintain taut and straight lines but I'll have to work on that thought later. Playing with a mock-up of a potential replacement for the exhaust waste gates. Getting the right size of tubing and the actual thickness of the brass tube are potential issues. Earlier, I worked out the view from the mid-fuselage intercooler openings. But there are a couple more small openings that need to be addressed. One is the area in front of the exhaust waste gates seen in the photo above. Mostly covered by the oil cooler vents but the ducting is included in the kit as part of the extensive ducting network, which I am planning on leaving out. So I sawed off the needed bits, which will block any potential view into the fuselage from this area. The supercharger outlet on the bottom fuselage seems tucked away enough to not worry about the view here. Moving on to the engine... Since there is a magnet installed onto the intake pipe ring, I put one into the rear engine assembly as well. If all goes as planned, the engine will be removable and I thought it'd be worthwhile to have the rear engine available to snap on when the engine is detached. The engine components have been have been assemble and ready for paint. Silver for the engine cylinders, mounting frames and firewall... dark grey for the gear reduction housing and rear engine assembly... black for the pushrods, input and exhaust ducts and duraluminum (a metal shade with a hint of yellow) for the ignition ring harness. After the base paints have been applied, I detailed by hand-painting the various components. Because the recessed lines of the cylinders were not very defined and had difficulty holding a pastel wash, I left the pastel wash essentially unwiped after application. Here are the engine components after the detail painting. The input and exhaust ducts were painted Alclad Steel over the base black. The exhaust ducts were highlighted with Alclad Manifold Exhaust. The ignition wiring was painted a light brown color. I changed my mind about the color of the mounting frames and firewall and painted them zinc yellow chromate instead. Assembly of the engine could now begin by gluing together the front and rear engine cylinder banks, sandwiching the black baffle plate between. The pushrods were glued onto the ends next. The input pipes are keyed so they only go on one way. The exhaust ducts are not keyed so it is easy to install them in the wrong orientation. So the gear reduction housing was put into place temporarily to help guide the correct placement of the exhaust pipes. The exit ends of the exhausts need to line up at the bottom of the engine. The last step and most time-consuming task of the build so far was mounting the wired ignition ring to the gear reduction housing and then terminating the ignition wires to their respective cylinders. More than a couple of wires became detached during this process but eventually I got it done. Note the little Pratt & Whitney logo... luckily I had a few left over from the F4U build! Here is a preliminary look at the engine after the wiring work was completed.
    26 points
  29. Some quick and dirty shots of the cockpit: Never worked so fast on a kit before....Hasegawa makes it much easier. Waiting on some HGW seatbelts, otherwise cockpit is OOB. Cheers, Damian
    26 points
  30. Thank you Gaz! Always appreciate the kind feedback! I fixed the broken pic link as well. Here are just a few more pics...
    26 points
  31. engine nacelles. difficult to see the detail but its subtle and looks like it will take a wash well. Cockpit details NOTE! weighted wheels. Nose area detail. Note there is currently a full glass nose for the RAF versions in development which will be included in the kit. Pretty standard 50 cal renditions. The MG barrels aren't too bad but the build will definitely benefit from brass barrels. upper turret detail One of two engine sprues. cant be seen well in this photo but the cylinder moulding is lovely and crisp. That said, close look it appears that some of the cylinder head mouldings may have a few sink marks. This may not be an issue in subsequent copies. Engine nacelle parts. clear parts Superbly clear and free from defects so there you go. I have no instructions or decals options although there is a hankering for an A20 with invasion stripes. Wish me luck!
    26 points
  32. Thanks guys, especially the feedback about the sheen vs. dead flat. I'll have to explore that a little more. And I've ordered some GX113 to check out as well. Last bits are being added onto the model. The landing gear legs have been glued into place. The tail wheel also. I'm using JB Kwik Weld 2-part epoxy to attach the wheels to the main landing gear legs. It's thickish like toothpaste and starts to hard in about 5 minutes, giving me time to orient the flat spots on the tires correctly. The little IFF antenna, the DF loop antenna and the boarding ladder are attached now. The ETC rack and drop tank are held in place with friction so I'm not going to glue them in place. She's nearing the finish line!
    26 points
  33. vince14

    Kotare Spitfire mk 1

    He said it to me, today. But no need to just take my word for it...
    26 points
  34. mozart

    Gloster Gauntlet II

    I can't think of a kit that has given me more satisfaction than Silver Wings Gauntlet: Build thread and lots of lovely period photos: My thanks to all those who helped me along the way, it certainly wasn't a straightforward build and it had its "moments" but the end result is satisfying.
    25 points
  35. The Trumpeter P-47D Razorback kit has been delivered and I'm now waiting for the AM items to arrive. Not familiar with the kit so I'll probably do a pictorial of the box contents to kick it off.
    25 points
  36. Thanks Bill! I'm not an expert on these things but I assumed two ignition wires for each cylinder head, attached to the front and the back. I should've clarified this a little more but the distributors and ignition wiring harness that I am using come from Vector and were included in their cowl flap upgrade, which I bought for my F4U build but didn't use. They were designed to be used together as the distributors fit neatly within the two gaps between the wire attachment outlets on the harness (see left). Each outlet has two small holes to accept wiring, with the exception of the two terminal outlets, which have three holes each. So which wires go where? There are 18 total cylinders on the PW R2800 Double Wasp. If each cylinder has two ignition wires each, the wire harness should have a total of 36 holes right? But... counting the holes on the ignition ring gets me 13x2 + 3x2 = 32 holes. We're four short. Ahhh... but look at the distributors... they each have wiring outlets with two holes each (see bottom)! Knowing that all of the wires were accounted for, I simply oriented the wiring harness onto the engine and made notes of which outlet corresponded to the closest cylinder head. To make things clearer, the outlets intended for the back cylinders were oriented between two front cylinders. So the wiring harness was pre-wired with both long and short wires, corresponding to front or rear cylinders. The wires were attached with CA glue which did not yield the strongest connection. And yes, I used aluminum tape to secure pairs of wires together. The last two outlets had two long and one short wire to attach to two back one front cylinder. I hope that makes sense! I've added the oil sump line at the bottom of the engine as well as a few wires from the magneto. I'll probably to attempt to apply some weathering to the gear reduction housing and rear engine body before attaching the mounting frames. The rear engine part is connected by magnets and can be easily removed. I forgot to show how the surgically removed portions of the supercharger duct block off the view at the oil cooler vents. Daniel Iscold at LSP graciously volunteered to cast a resin tail wheel for me but ran into the economic reality of trying to mail a small parcel Brazil to the USA and we had to scrap that idea. To honor his graciousness and also his high expectations for this build, I bit the bullet and ordered a resin set of wheels just for the tail wheel. It's designed for the Hasegawa Jug, is weighted and looks more legit than the kit tail wheel. The hub opening was on the large side so to get rid of the slop, I punched a small plug of sheet plastic to match the hole. The plug was fused into the opening with CA glue and a smaller hole was drilled out. A much more solid fit!
    25 points
  37. Guys, Thank you for your earnest replies. I wanted to reply to your posts earlier, because I read them as quickly as I could. But I needed a bit of time to digest what you wrote as well as ruminate on how I felt about what I had accomplished. I waited for a week, and the more times I looked at it, or even thought about how it looked, the more I hated it. So part of today's update will show my new results. I started by sanding back the earlier attempts at scuffing. I left enough of it in place to hint that some slight paint damage has occurred. I may still change it later. My next tasks were to add all of the protruding parts common to Luftwaffe fighters late in the war. I had four different DF loops on this machine. The original, two brass, and the final one, Stainless steel. The original DF loop broke when I lost control of the machine and my lap prevented it from making it to the floor. The fragile plastic couldn't outlast my clumsiness. And the two brass DF loops either got knocked off repeatedly, or because of their softness were continually getting knocked out of shape. So I thought to myself... "I'll fix your wagon!" So, I have these Stainless steel wheel stencils which are on a fret. And the thinnest pieces of the fret are just narrow enough for the job. Notice the nice blued color? I hot-blued it by heating it red hot, and then dropping it into olive oil. So I can avoid painting it. I also had to worry about how I was going to attach the antenna radio aerial. I hate the simple expedient of just drilling a couple of holes. It just seems wrong in larger scale. I've had a love affair with Bob's Buckles since I first used them to rig a WNW kit. Just don't tell Mrs. Buckles. Here, I have attached the eyelets to both the antenna mast and the vertical fin. The largest and most frail protuberance is the Morane Mast and the pitot tube. According to the regulations the aerodynamic wooden fairing was to be left in a natural color with a clear varnish for protection. I painted the metal parts RLM 71. I saw somebody do it with red and white stripes like the night fighters had on their lower aerials... But I haven't seen any photographic evidence of it. This is a plastic kit part. Mucho Fragilico. I also weathered the wheels and wheel well covers so that they would fit in with my very dirty underside. I really wanted the wheels to appear much dirtier. But weathering over black... and trying to be subtle about it... Gives weak results. But I can live with that. Finally... A couple overall shots. You can see I didn't forget the FuG 25 IFF aerial under the rear fuselage. Thanks, Mike! Thanks for looking... ...and as always, your comments are appreciated. Happy Modelling!
    25 points
  38. CruZz

    KopeckyScaleModels

    Hello all! New sets: 32034 F-4 E/E/G/J/S Exhaust nozzles 32035 F-4 E/E/G/J/S Tail are available now. Welcome to www.kopeckyscalemodels.com Thank you!
    25 points
  39. On HyperScale today there is a completed build of this kit, which shows it in a much better light than anything from Revell so far: https://hyperscale.com/2022/galleries/hurricaneiib32dw_1.htm?fbclid=IwAR2MslD81QWNFXoeN4Gb9l9iJ_gLF25ot4cw37GmVkufKxTZ9vytNVXeD7Y It's a shame Revell botched their own launch photos so badly, creating such unnecessary controversy. Kev
    25 points
  40. Impressive aircraft, but miserable to work on. The only good thing about that assignment is that I can say I was there.
    25 points
  41. SPECIAL ANNOUNCEMENT Sprue Brothers Models LLC is ecstatic announce the pending arrival of a special purchase of Wingnut Wings inventory. 43 different items (all are kits except for 2 items) are expected on this pending shipment which we are hoping to arrive within the next few weeks. This full container arrived in the US last week, and it is currently in the rail shipment queue to get it to our warehouse in Liberty, MO from the port. Due to the shortage of carriages (what containers are transported on), we are patiently waiting its turn to transit on the rails. We have “turned on” all the items (https://spruebrothers.com/wingnut-wings/) that are expected to be on this container so allow you to put in for Notify When Available requests. We are not planning on accepting pre-orders. It will be first come, first serve once they arrive. Just watch our new arrivals page for the announcement of their arrival, or you can request to be notified by email using the Notify When Available feature of our webstore. Approximately 14 months ago, we were contacted by Wingnut Wings inquiring about whether we were interested in helping sell their remaining inventory from when Wingnut Wings closed. The process was not fast. WNW finally accepted an order from us in late June, which finally shipped in September. Now we are anxiously awaiting its arrival. Please note that we do not know if there is any more remaining inventory nor do we know if we can obtain any more inventory after this shipment. Please refrain from calling or emailing us for any additional information. All the available information is listed here. We are very short staffed due to the current labor situation so we want our staff members to focus on getting orders shipped out rather than trying to answer questions that they do not have any further information.
    24 points
  42. 1/32 Trumpeter A-6A intruder Finished this week 1/32 Trumpeter A-6A intruder, this is my 5th Build of this kit and its still enjoyable, hers 503 2nd time on this one, with slight differences in the paint scheme , paint's used were MRP paints, and Eduard MER's and Quinta studios cockpit details, everything else was out the box enjoy. Mike
    24 points
  43. this presented itself on the way across the pond......
    24 points
  44. Aaaah yes good point, I used medium suuperglue as others suggested Everything still fits! So this represents a fully converted (Post Mod 406) RAF FG.1 Phantom cockpit as best I can I am looking forward to working on something else after the rudder pedals and a couple of other minor things are glued in....I am sick of the cockpit. But very happy with it! Cheers Anthony
    24 points
  45. Bekim

    F-22 Raptor 1/32

    Here the front section of the beauty…. Regards Bekim
    24 points
  46. Not sure if this has already been mentioned or not on LSP, but this could be interesting for those who can afford one (Phoenix Stand at IPMS Scale Model World at Telford). Derek
    24 points
  47. 1/32 Trumpeter model with Hasegawa parts, Avionix cockpit, Eduard mask, wheels & exhaust, Dk Decals, homemade mask, All colours MRP
    24 points
  48. Thank you for your kind words, friends! I had the day off, so I devoted a significant amount of time to modelling.... and watching Monday Night Football. On to the fun stuff... Someone else had the idea to show the two rows of rivets along the cockpit sill... so, I copied the idea with middling results. Some of the rivets drifted out of place and will have to be fixed later. HGW transfers have a knack of working just less than 100% of the time. And... succumbing completely to the seductions of the dark side, I pulled out my beading tool and drunkenly applied rivets to the wheel well covers. It's not the best picture. The rest of my efforts were aimed at weathering the white parts of the markings and the lighter shade of RLM 76. I used white on the upper reaches of the white areas to lighten, and a shade of blue gray on the lower reaches. And I used pale gray to highlight some details of the RLM 76 areas. Around the nine... it looks rather untidy. I think i will need some air brush touch up here and there. Anyway... that's it for now.
    24 points
  49. vince14

    Kotare Spitfire mk 1

    Some bloke called Richard Alexander. Test shots of the incoming Mk.Ia (Mid)
    24 points
  50. Thanks everyone! Yeah, I started noticing those differences as soon as I preparing the post. No stars and bars on the wing bottom, different invasion stripe configuration on the landing gear doors, etc. Because of the lack of guns, I started thinking it might be a restoration or display. But I left the photo because the contrast between the top and bottom colors looked to be very similar. Back to the model... here is the engine temporarily housed in the cowling, which is a pretty positive fit due to the exact shape of the front frame around the engine. The engine is attached to the firewall at those two D-shaped holes and nothing else. The firewall can be solidly glued to the fuselage. Without the rear engine assembly, you can see that the there is a possibility of securing the rear of the back cylinder base to the firewall... maybe with magnets? While I think about that, I fashioned up a small oil sump and scavenge pipe using a bit of styrene and copper wire. The oil sump is nestled under the bottom front cylinder head. Making sure that the oil sump does not interfere with the front frame. I'm using lead wire for the ignition wiring cables. There are two additional wiring connections at the back of each distributor, hence the gap in the harness spacing. The harness and the distributors are from Vector and obviously designed to be used together. I noticed that the closed cowling flaps (top) are missing a panel line. I also added a little triangular shim to the edge of the cowl flaps so that they would sit flush. Notice the very faint panel lines. I've already started to re-scribe these. There is just enough of a depression to guide my scriber along without any guide tape... living dangerously! The Curtis Electric prop has been cleaned up. I thinned the blades down and filled in the depressions that were molded onto the cuffs.
    23 points
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