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  2. BloorwestSiR
    Same here! I wanted to see the Air Group bomb the Japanese task force and the Nimitz sail into Pearl past Battleship Row. I saw a pic years ago of the VF-84 Tomcat from the film with a Zero kill marking on it. Can't recall where though.
  3.    MikeMaben reacted to a post in a topic: Revelamiyastang ...
  4.    BloorwestSiR reacted to a post in a topic: Maverick
  5. BloorwestSiR
    Frisket film is too tacky. There's something called transfer film which is what you need. It can be slightly frosty (my roll is) but has a much lower tack than frisket. For me, what I generally do when using masks is: 1- Remove any excess material around the mask. This way you can isolate each element on the sheet. 2- Apply a similarly sized piece of transfer film to the mask. I applied it on an angle so that the corners of the mask are still accessible. When you start to peel the mask off the backing paper, gently bend or roll the backing paper away from the mask. It may not initially stick to the transfer film but go slowly. Press the transfer film back on as needed. Once the initial "bond" between the mask and backing paper is broken, the mask should stick better to the transfer film. The transfer film will then hold everything in place and keep it aligned. Then it's time for placement on the model. I generally start with one corner, lightly press it down and check the alignment. Do not remove the transfer film until you're 100% certain on the position. Once you are, press both down and then peel off the transfer film. Theo mentioned using a mild soap or water solution to float the mask into place. This can be done but it means you'll have to wait for the water to dry before you can paint. I think there's a place for both decals and masks. Certainly larger elements are better served by using masks. Or if they have to go onto compound curves. Here's a recent F-16 tail I did with masks One thing I missed were some of the spots on the muzzle of the tiger. I was able to reapply the mask and touch it up. Hope this helps. Carl
  6. BiggTim
    Me likey, Mikey!!
  7.    BiggTim reacted to a post in a topic: Revelamiyastang ...
  8.    BiggTim reacted to a post in a topic: Little Boy, Gen. V
  9. BiggTim
    That is so cool!! But I thought you weren't going to make them anymore? (I see K2 and I were typing at the same time)
  10. MikeMaben
    Pictures only ... WIP LINK
  11.    BiggTim reacted to a post in a topic: Little Boy, Gen. V
  12. LSP_K2
    I thought you were done doing these, Damian.
  13. MikeMaben
    Thanks John So I've finally wrapped it up. Took longer than it was supposed to but it was a fun journey anyway. RFI LINK
  14.    LSP_K2 reacted to a post in a topic: Little Boy, Gen. V
  15.    Out2gtcha reacted to a post in a topic: 1/32 Kittyhawk F-84F Thunderstreak & RF-84F Thunderflash !
  16. Out2gtcha
    Nice one D!
  17.    Out2gtcha reacted to a post in a topic: Little Boy, Gen. V
  18. KAGNEW
    we never said "here' that we were making a 1/32 TBD Devastator. i think that was Trump-y-boss which we broke away from almost 10 years ago. but i won't rule one out. Jennings thanks for the offer. Harold & Bruce spent days on F-84F this side of pond, Tim and others spent days in Europe on the same mission. i have complete access to just restored RF-84F myself. but if we have any question, i'll ask you. thanx Glen i
  19.    Out2gtcha reacted to a post in a topic: F-11F Tiger 1/32 revival!!!
  20.    Tnarg reacted to a post in a topic: Zvezda Star Destroyer - a new detailing project
  21. Jennings Heilig
    Doesn't help me though. The Silhouette proprietary software simply will not work for me. I've upgraded, etc, etc, etc, and right now it simply will not work.
  22. Bill M.
    Good to hear from Kittyhawk! The F-84’s will be great, but I would still love to see that TBD Devastator that was hinted at years ago. Kittyhawk may be our only hope! Bill M.
  23. DrewH
    A lot of CNC equipment does this - it's not limited to these cutters. I've seen this with glass cutting, plasma cutters, and others. It's a function of G-code - the code the actual cutter uses and priority assignment, optimization & waste from the base program and loads of other factors. While you think it's funky and maybe not the best for waste etc, it's the way it's programmed and cut code file generated.
  24. Today
  25. Jennings Heilig
    Well right now it's all academic. I can't get the f**king thing to do anything. And their "customer support" is utterly worthless. They refuse to let me speak to a human being despite repeated requests to do so. Right now I'm dead in the water, so it's not looking likely we'll have the Hellcat masks available at Chattanooga. I'm about 90% tempted to shelve the whole 1/24 project and chalk up the silkscreen printed parts to experience and be done with it. This is more of a PITA than it can possibly be worth.
  26. LSP_K2
    I don't know, it looks awfully good to me.
  27. MikeMaben
  28. MikeMaben
    Then it may be cutting individual elements in the order you created them. Try grouping everything.
  29. ScottsGT
    X2
  30. Jennings Heilig
    Everybody (and I mean *every* body) told me to get Oracal 631, and I've spent a fair chunk of change on a big roll of it, so if that's not the ideal masking material I'm going to be pretty pissed. The frisket film I got at Michael's was all they had, and it's essentially clear. It's far too sticky for small delicate masks though. The mask doesn't have enough oomph to stand up to having the frisket film pulled off of it without letting go of the surface it's on. Maybe I just need more practice, but so far I'm not a fan. If I'm actually able to get this F**KING Silhouette software to work we'll have the masks for the 1/24 Hellcats, but that's probably the last of them I'll do. I just think decals are the way to go for about 99.9% of markings on models.
  31. Out2gtcha
    Hrmmm. Are you using the clear clear frisket film, or the clear ones that are a bit frosted? Also, I dont think I've ever used Oramask 631, I've only ever used 810. I got the frosted ones by accident thinking they would work and it was impossible to see where I placed things after I got some good frisket film (low tac) masks became a bit easier after some practice. I think roundels and German crosses can be some of the hardest masks to use, as there are a lot of layers to keep straight. For me it's all about keeping the entire mask together, and weeding out the layers as needed, that way the spacing is maintained. That and making sure the gaps are filled on complex masks HTH
  32. mustang1989
    Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaang!!! Man I'm really sorry to see that for you Don. Hang in there......that's modeling pal. Just back up and regroup.
  33. Bstarr3
    Thanks, Gary! They're going to get some mud, too, before all is said and done
  34. Out2gtcha
    AirVenture is the ONLY place on earth I've been where by day 5 or 6 flying P-51 Musangs are so commonplace that you don't bat an eye at them.
  35. The Madhatter
    Thats awesome! You'll have enough fiber there to light several kits. Can't wait to see the F104 when shes done
  36. Out2gtcha
    As a kid the ending had me super mad.......but that scene makes me want to build Tomcat right now!
  37. BloorwestSiR
    Here's the movie that got me hooked on the Tomcat:
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