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  2. That's a beauty! It's a dilemma: doing a typcial (nice and clean) scheme would be atypical for my builds so far. Doing an atypical scheme (patched up and grimey) on the other hand would be typical for me. There's plenty of time to struggle with this until I reach the painting stage
  3. Thank you for the kind words. This is really a nice kit and not a difficult one (it is not HpH difficult). I just finished decaling the bird and the decals are very good quality, very thin with good solid color. I was concerned that the white would show the GSB underneath but it is not the case. This is the scheme as seen in the movie The Bridges at Toko Ri. If you google it you find on You Tube all the aircraft footage of the movie, which I found extremely helpful to place the decals (especially the dragon) as the instruction sheet was very very dark and it was hard to see where certain decals went. There is a full sheet of instructions on the placement of stencils but it seems that I have no stencils in my kit but it is not a biggie, I think looks good as is. I need to add a coat of future to protect the decals and then finish the cockpit and install the landing gears, the airbrakes and the ordnance. Getting there. Cheers, David
  4. Wow, what a great piece of work Jeff! Rigged by spider no doubt............that takes tremendous patience. Cheers, Wolf
  5. Thanks Mike, but I don't want it to look like metal because it is fabric. But it is one my options. Just starting to think about mixing something or playing with the surface to make it not so smooth.
  6. I'm going to savour watching that later, my favourite Griffon-engined Spitfire marque. Thanks for sharing.
  7. Today
  8. In one word- Beautiful!!!!!!!!!!!!
  9. Thanks a lot Mike!....I was struggling to find some half decent background paper as its been ages since I've completed anything to photograph, but yeah, if I can get some lighter stuff, I will. A couple more.... Cheer's, Jeff.
  10. The type of pastels you use is related to what you want to use them for Pup. For example, if you want to use them to simulate exhaust stains you should use an oil based pastel. As Mozart says above, if using them for other types of weathering non-oil pastels are the weapon of choice. I use AK Interactive pastels and though are not a true pastel chalk, Tamiya's weathering pastels. As to techniques, I apply the Tamiya stuff using either a paint brush (an old one!) or the little applicator that comes with each three color case. I gently rub them on the area(s) I want to weather building up light coats until I have the result I like. The pastels can be mixed to make different tones, are even different colors. It is easy to learn to do this and with just a little practice you can generate some great effects. To apply the AK pastels I either dip an old paint brush into the chalk and apply it dry, or apply it to an area that is damp. For example to simulate a rusted muffler I start by painting it a dark metal rusted shade such as Alclad II Engine exhaust manifold - but any type of paint that has a dark metallic look will work - as will black for that matter. Once dry I apply the pastels; I generally use three shades each darker then the other. I start with the darkest and work towards the lightest. I recommend looking a photos of an actual rusted muffler that is still in use to get an idea of how the shades interface with each other. If you want to simulate thicker rust you can either dampen the area you are working on with greatly thinned white glue and apply the pastels. This takes a bit of practice to get down. Simulating powder stains from weapon's fire is quite easy. Just apply the pastels using the appropriate sized brush to the area to be stained. I use Tamiya's pastels for the area immediately around the weapan or firing hole and than blend non oil based pastels (AK) outwards to feather the effect into the wind slipstream if required. HTH's, Ernest
  11. I'm bias as I was part of the R&D team with Floyd Werner and others and we think we nailed it pretty good. The only fit issue I keep hearing about is that when you close up the fuselage, it's a tight fit so modelers have been carefully sanding the outside of all the cabin walls that come in contact with the fuselage half on both sides until the fuselage is alot more easy to go together. A certain helicopter aftermarket company is in the process of making some goodies for the MH-60L, so stay tuned!!!! Just sayin Tim Tim
  12. Beautiful work Jeff. You should do some pix with a lighter background too. The dark background highlights the rigging nicely.
  13. Hi Pup, a turpentine substitute would be mineral spirits, called white spirits in Europe. Another would be terpenoid. Like Highlander I use oils to paint figures and as he noted in his post oils should be thinned - in the rare cases thinning is required - using a good artist's turpentine to avoid potential issues with the oil paint. As you only want to use oils for washes and some blending, you can use the above thinners with no worries. I use AK Interactive's oil thinner, it is pricy compared to a mass produced white spirit but a bottle lasts a very long time and I have never had any issues using it; and I do occasionally use oils for washes. I use Winsor and Newton oils; again a bit pricier than other choices but a tube will last a lifetime and the pigments are extremely fine. They thin very well for making washes as a result. Ernest
  14. Hi all, Just finished up this one, Wingnut Wings FE.2b (Late), its taken a long time to complete, I started it in 2016, and put it on the back burner until resuming work on it around September last year. Its unbelievable how a company can kit a model like this, and lay out all the direction you need to build it.Kits like this are great value for money, with the time it takes to put one together. I dont know if James Fahey is a member here, but I would like to thank him for his reference pics, I couldn't have rigged this without them, they are a gold mine of reference. I know the British aircraft used the flat type rigging wires on their aircraft, but that was going to be too much trying to install that type of rigging on this build, so I just used normal thread, ...I used Bob's Buckles eyelets and brass tube for rigging, plus some Gaspatch turnbuckles. All comments and critiques welcome. Thanks for looking, Cheer's, Jeff.
  15. Use soft pastels not the oil-based ones. A bit like LRH’s answer to your question about oil paints, the more expensive professional pastels and pastel pencils give a better finish. If you’re using them for weathering etc simply pare off some powder then use a soft brush to apply to the area, most of it will drop off but the subtlety is achieved by that which remains after several applications. Obviously the smoother and shinier the surface the less easily the pastel “sticks”. Hope this helps a little.
  16. The ferrari enzo are you going to build the 1/12? About the colors i like a very much nice work keep on building Mark
  17. God I love hearing that! I haven't built a kit in decades, still gathering the supplies I need. I have two of their Little Birds on the way, and plan to buy as many of their Blackhawks as possible. I have seen the level of detail they have, and compared to my Academy kits, these seem to be the new bar, and it's a high one, even oob. But I have never had luck, back in the old days, when the only filler I knew off, was the testors tube stuff. This was before the internet and before I even heard or micro sandpaper. Anyway, I plan to learn filling/sanding on less important/expensive kits, but having a proper fitting kit, will help avoid a big mess. Anyway, thanks for giving me some stress relief! Cheers, Anthony
  18. Alclad Dull Aluminum. It dries kinda grainy but I hit lightly with an apbrasive sponge and it looks like metal.
  19. Another nice update; thanks, Kev! I also just made it through last updates. Some amazing models!
  20. Hi ! Welcome here ! I really like this plane hope you enjoy the built !
  21. Howdy folks, Just a small but well-formed What's New update today. Enjoy! Kev
  22. Looks like a very technical build Ade, best of luck with your current little problem.
  23. I asked earlier in the thread if the order book was still open as I’d rather have this than any rendition of a big Lancaster. However have just spent £3683 on a major service and some rectification work to my car, I just cannot justify the cost
  24. Welcome Denders to the GB and LSP, both great places to be! I’ll look forward to seeing your model build over the long weeks ahead.
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