Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates

  1. Past hour
  2. I have little experience airbrushing gold paints, nut can not help you there. As far as gold foil is concerned, that technique requires you to lay down a thing glue layer upon which the goild foil is then pressed. When brushing with a hard(is) brush the excess gold is brushed away, and only the bit attached to the glue remains. Works wonders on art frames, not sure how feasible it will be on models... I must say mr metal colours has a very fine grain, but I find their a more pleasing yellow than their gold (perhaps the labels were switched on my bottles, not sure)
  3. Just checked with Hannants, it is availableon backorder only at-the-mo
  4. Thank you Ray, it’s good to see it up there in the spotlight.
  5. It looks fine to me, Carsten. I think the anti-glare panel of the aircraft gives the impression that the nose is more pointed than it really is. You are doing a great job on an interesting an unusual conversion. Hans
  6. Actually the two paints you are using, Tamiya and Mr. Hobby, are probably the best of the non-lacquer paints out there. I find them just as easy to use as MRP and Mr. Color. Ok nothing is as easy as MRP since you don't need to thin it but they all spray great. I thin Tamiya and Mr. Hobby with IPA or Mr. Color Leveling Thinner and have never had any tip drying. Pre-shading is definitely good airbrush practice as others have said. Anything you don't like can just be painted over. Jay
  7. Today
  8. Today my workplace looked like the Sahara. It was sanding time! First I took off the masking tapes to see how well my borders turned out. I would say not bad at all. And then came sanding, sanding and sanding again. After a good 2 hours of sanding, starting with 140 grit and finishing with 8000 grit, the result is quite respectable. Side view: Front view: Top view: Bottom view: What do you think? Now that I look at the result on the computer, I still don't like the nose 100%. It needs to be a bit more pointed. If you look at it with the profile view below, I'll probably have to do some touching up.
  9. For me on 109s I always do the fuselage after it's together. I find it easier to do after all the panel lines are cleaned up along the spine and bottom, but that's just me. Jay
  10. That’s a tough set of options, equally time consuming I’ll imagine. Of the two, I’d probably enlist the help of your daughter if she’s agreeable. I’ve no real experience using gold paint, beyond mixing a drop or two of MRP into other metallic colours. I’m guessing any lacquer based gold will allow you to spray a really thin layer with good coverage over the white. Possibly a touch more to cover the other colours.
  11. hi guys, JP, one of the club members did build the Fouga end of last year. Lot's of options for the different types and a good kit. Now Danny is working on the decals, given all the options you have in the box for different versions that can take a while. Here some pictures of the build waiting for decals. We intend to show it at our local exhibition and building day on Sunday 16 April. (the flyer about 16 April is in Flemish, was intended to be used only locally) You're always welcome, Jan adres : Parochiezaal Torenven (kleine zaal) Torenvenstraat 5 2560 Kessel
  12. I'm wondering if they'll offer the D3Y2 engine cowling , it's a little different [ more rounded and with a spinner] ?
  13. Did I mention I love plastic detective work. If you followed Nick's drop tank location fix/ photo above this is for you. It looks as if Italeri have scribed the drop tank hardpoints and umbilical ports in the correct location for a E model. BUT if you drill out the locater holes on the back side of the wing it will place the tank in the C models reference point towards the fuse and way from the scribed detail! Italeri even indicates the location of the correct E mounting location, check it out But then the following drawing shows the tank as it it was installed in the wrong (C model) holes. If it was installed over the correct ports then surely they would be covered in that 2nd CAD shot. I feel as I have accomplished something today. The smoking gun shot.....
  14. Yeepee! Would you please print them in 1/32?
  15. Damn! I might need to get one of these! Cheers Alan
  16. Simple solution: do not add the ones very close to the edges before assembly! Glue everything, sand and clean and then add the final ones.
  17. a most timely question simple answer, no…but i have an idea and am open to any and all suggestions so while i sit here eating lunch lets lay out some thoughts i have a 2400dpi scan of the 1/72 scale cartograph decals the Kanji is part of the whole decal so to separate them i have to spend a huge amount of time in photoshop probably my daughter is in her 2nd semester of Japanese, maybe she can find a resource to tell me what each of the characters is? Then i could lay them out cleanly and make a mask. Tedious, but hey, often times that’s what makes art special right! from the looks of it the silhouette can cut it. The problem I’ve had with these tiny masks is that 1) it’s hard to get them to transfer from the friskette (for placement and alignment) to the surface and then 2) once on the surface they don’t stick well and slide around until you hit them with clear coat. Weird how adhesive behaves like that. the gold needs to be thin or it peels up with the tape has been my past experience. The Kanji have some very fine lines to them. I’m looking for an MCW or lacquer right now. Haven’t looked to see if vallejo has a gold in their new metal line tho. Anyone know or have experience with gold paint? how about gold foil? Anyone know if that might work? wow that was a lot. Killed the rest of my lunch hour with that list
  18. Add to that , there's photoetch , the devil's playground. I'd sooner take the time to "thin" things down than mess about with photoetch but that's me
  19. Absolutely outstanding, thoroughly deserved award.
  20. True but at least to me this is similarly frustrating!
  21. At least they had weapons, wrong or not.
  22. Thanks for your advice. In fact I ask this question because if I engrave the ½ fuselages and ½ wings before the assembly, I am afraid to have to start engraving the rivets again because after gluing I will necessarily have rivets that will "disappear" following the sanding of the junction line. And conversely, if I engrave the rivets after gluing/sanding the ½ fuselages and ½ wings, it will obviously be a much more difficult operation to perform... But I'll stick with your experience and etch the rivets before gluing the subassemblies.
  23. Well, actually Trumpeter released many kits with the wrong bombs or with misshaped ones...
  1. Load more activity
  • Create New...