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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/26/2019 in all areas

  1. 46 points
    Trumpeter Su-27 1/32 finally finished... I tried to build heavy weathered Flanker based above polar circle with units called “ Guardians of the North”. I used Zacto intakes, nosecone, missiles and pylons. Aires Cockpit, wheel wells and exhausts. Armory resin wheels. Front windshield is a scratch build as kit part was really bad in shape. Colors - MRP paint including silver primer, transparent paints and metalizers. Tamiya panel liners and weathering Masters used.
  2. 34 points
    CZPetrP

    MiG-23ML 1/32 Trumpeter

    MiG-23ML "4644" 1. SLP. Planá airport, České Budějovice, 1991 -first take-off of the aircraft was made on November 27, 1982 - fly to Czechoslovakia to ČB 22. 12. 1982 - total air raid 1136h and 41 minutes - The last flight took place on 26th October 2000 by Maj. Zdeněk Ouda Model: Trumpeter, Scale: 1/32 Author: Petr Pícha Photo: my frend Miloslav (thank you) Accessories: Aires-cockpit, nozzle, Wheels bay, avionics Eduard- photo etched part-exterior, Quickboost-cooling of aggregates Master-pitot tube, sparkers Linden Hill-Decals Customization: partially modified air intakes, APU-23, APU-60 -Helping keel - exhaust and suction channel of the turbostrarter - undercarriage legs -IR sensor -Other little things More Photo + building: https://www.leteckemuzeumliborezy.cz/mig-23/
  3. 33 points
    HL-10

    Bf-110G4 Night Fighter.

    I have had a thing for this machine for longer than i cam remember! I was planning to upgrade the old Revell kit when along came Dragon & AIMS. The AIMS set is an absolute dream to use. All the parts are designed to be "drop in" with no surgery is required, the parts needed to modify the 110 to a G4 just replace the kit parts. The Master turned brass aerials are included in the set along with a very extensive etched set. I didn't use the etched seat belts, instead I used a set from HGW. Initially the set came with a vac form rear canopy, but AIMS now do a clear resin part which is very nicely cast. I used Xtracolor RLM matched paints for the colour scheme. Thanks for looking, Angelo
  4. 32 points
    Peter Gregor

    A-4N Ahit 1/32 Trumpeter

    Hi guys, I would like to present my other project, A-4N Ahit tail number 389. I used the Trumpeter A-4M kit with Wingman Models A-4N upgrade set, AMS corrected intake, wheels and refueling probe, Aires cockpit set with homemade upgrades to N version and Eduard exterior, flaps and slats set and Isradecal decals. I used MRP paints and Ammo of Mig washes and Oilbrushers as usual. As the source of information and pictures, I used Double Ugly Book A-4 in IAF service. Thank you for all comments...
  5. 30 points
    1/32 Hasegawa kits HGW rivet set, wet transfers Barracuda wheels Eagle Cals #104 Aires wheel bay, engine, gun barrels Avionix cockpit All colours MRP
  6. 29 points
    Lothar

    P-40M Hasegawa reliefed from the SOD

    I pulled this kit from the SOD where it has been rotting for at least 4 years. It's the really nice Hasegawa kit with some Eduard etched parts, CMK resin bits (weapons bay), kit decals (except for the national markings for which I used home made masks from Tamiya tape), paints used were Gunze throughout: I hope you like what you see. Modelling isn't as easy as it used to be, hands have become shaky and eyesight is diminishing, but I still enjoy it. Lothar
  7. 25 points
    Hello, I've finally finished this one.... As in title - this is P-400 Airacobra "Airacutie" by Special Hobby , reboxed by Revell. Model isn't good, I'm sure that Kittyhawk one is much better but it was on sale so I bought it Basically it's OOB but there are seatbelts from Eduard and guns from brass pipes. Lady on wing is from Masterbox Pinup set. Whole model is painted with Mr.Hobby range and weathered with MIG,Tamiya and AMMO products. It has very shallow panel lines so wash didn't go well. I found a topic about Airacutie on this forum so I know that this particular P-400 had it's gear covers dismounted. After finishing I found that left cockpit door on real P-400 was permanently blocked. Another mistake is supposedly wrong cockpit color but I have no chance to correct it now. Anyway , hope you'll like it
  8. 25 points
    1/32 Hasegawa kits HGW rivet set, wet transfers Barracuda wheels Techmod decals 32011 Aires wheel bay, engine, gun barrels Avionix cockpit All colours MRP
  9. 25 points
    Howdy pardners Thank you so much for all your kind words - it really spurs me on to do my best I needed to move on under the fuselage to the scoop exhaust area - again this is a bunch of compound curves, but quite an interesting part of the airframe.. ..having chopped out the 'kit' part as it wasn;t right, I had replaced it with a card & filler structure, but this still needed rework when I got to it as the sidewalls needed to be strong to take burnishing down the metal skins to get the curves.. ..so the first thing was to create some stiff brass walls... ..this was then lined with pre-rivetted ali skins.. ..on the real deal, you can see the roof skin is ribbed to aid airflow and there is an opening for the strut that controls the door in this area.. ..I CA'd some brass wire to the roof to form the ribs over and started working an annealed sheet into the opening - this sheet was prepared by riveting the trailing edge and making the strut hole & rivets.. ..the tips of the scoop ribs were done by cutting the straight edges & pre-riveting, and then sticking these in place before forming the edges over the structure.. ..both sides done (before final finishing) - you can also see the ribs in the roof now.. ..the side panel has a hatch in it so this was added - here as the impact adhesive goes off before being folded back into position.. ..the other side has an indented oval (no idea what it is...) so this was made, then attatched to the skin and a hole made in the fuselage to accept the adaptation.. ..then it was all sanded to uniformity & any missing / lost rivets added.. ..I had also made the radiator before so this was test fitted.. ..have moved to the underwing panels behing the main gear -once these are down, the radiator airscoop can be added back and all the skinning under there completed TTFN Peter
  10. 24 points
    This is the 1/32 Roden O-2 kit with the following modifications and additions. Modified kit to a later version with larger pilots side window Added RB Productions seat belts Scratch built throttle quadrant Opened air vents on side of fuselage Thinned cowl flaps EZ line aerial wire Flattened tyres Strengthened and thinned the main undercarriage legs with brass sheet . Added scratchbuilt hoodlining Scribed many panel lines around main undercarriage legs and also oil filler access panels. Paint and Markings: Painted to represent aircraft flown by David Robson during the Vietnam war. AOA decals with custom masks made for the kangaroo/snoopy logos on the nose and tails.
  11. 24 points
    AND SOME MORE Thanks for looking!!
  12. 21 points
    Right - off to grab a small glass of vino - then back to looking at B-24 wings... Iain
  13. 21 points
    May 29/19 After 1 month, I'm finally back with an update. It may not look like much, but this next step took me about 20 hours of picky, detailed work! The engine on the F-5 has a zillion fine rivets, both on the rear nozzles and the titanium panels just forward. This is what it looks like on a Swiss real deal.... There are two types of rear nozzles supplied with the kit. One set has fine recessed rivets and comes in two halves, creating a big seam, while the kit also supplies some one piece resin replacements, which I used. As you can see, they are cast kind of rough, the raised rivets are huge and there's an unfortunate casting block right where you don't want it, on the lip of the nozzle on the right. They also seem to have been cast crooked, but I found that the shallow lip goes on the outside, while the thicker lip goes on the inside. Of course the instructions say nothing about it! Here I have sanded off the monster rivets on the left. The rear of the nozzles should have two thin circles of metal, separated by a gap. To improve this look, I sanded the outside thinner, while carefully sanding the gap within. It's not perfect, but from a few inches away, it looks not bad. The titanium panels just forward of the nozzles have recessed rivets, which look OK, but I can make them better. As mentioned above, I have used Archer resin raised rivets many times before, so I've learned a few things about this great product as follows: 1) The wider the decal film, the stronger the chain of rivets, but the higher the chance that it will show under paint, no matter how much decal softener you use. 2) The narrower the decal film, the more fragile the chain of rivets, which often break apart, but it will not show as easily under paint. 3) Rivets applied to curved surfaces should be done in short chains, for ease of handling. 4) Even single rivets can be applied successfully, so if you bump off one or two, repairs are easy. With the above in mind, I found some Archer rivets that were about the same spacing as the kit rivets, but just slightly larger, so they would still adhere without filling the recessed ones. I found that chains of only 5 worked best, because they were easy to apply, but also compensated for the slight differences in rivet spacing. These are found in #AR 88015, with thin strips of rivets cut as shown. After many, many hours of work, they look pretty good. Not perfect by any means, partly because the kit spacing isn't perfect either, but when these areas are painted the same color, the small imperfections should almost disappear. Engine nozzles and V-shaped antennae on the sides are only dry fitted with masking fluid "glue". Top And don't forget the bottom, because it is covered with raised rivets as well in roughly this pattern from references. I see that I've missed a 3 rivet pattern on the top and bottom of the antennae at the front, so consider that fixed. Next step is to spray these rivets and panels with clear acrylic X-22, to seal them, toughen them and help hide the decal film. After paint, all you should see is raised rivets and no film. On to the fiddly stuff, like landing gear, gear well doors, etc. Not my favorite part of any build, but very important nonetheless. Cheers, Chuck
  14. 21 points
    shan

    SUPERCOBRA

    Hi, i just finished this kit by MRC which i bought 20 years ago. had some major issues, as the decals have deteriorated and somehow the canopy had warped and a slight crack. other than than, it was an interesting learning experience building this kit without a conventional build guide. the mrc kit's instruction were more of an instruction with words rather than the normal pictorial guide. after some reading, there is a black and white photograph of how the part should look like after assembly. sure was interesting to me. I used the 2 bobs decals "whiskey in the mix" and Eduards BIG ED photo etch parts which were a real delight as the added quite a bit of detail to the kit. anyway, hope you enjoy the pics. sorry for the poor photography.
  15. 21 points
    Koralik

    Su-25 Frogfoot A Trumpeter 1:32

    I would like to present you the model that I prepared for the model exhibition. I chose a fairly difficult to build model, Su-25 Frogfoot A Trumpeter 1:32 Model I made straight from the box + Pitot from Master. I decided to make this model very heavily exploited. This plane is a work horse in the Russian Air Force, so this look is the norm. I add a lot of photos on a light and dark background, I hope they will please you.
  16. 20 points
    ericg

    Iconicair Supermarine Attacker FB.2

    Modifications and additions: Jet pipe and exhaust turbine face scratch built. Seat cushions and belts scratch built Height of tail increased by approx 2mm Rocket rails scratch built Rivet detail added to circumference of belly tank Added brake lines and actuator rods to undercarriage All antenna replaced with wire Cockpit access step scratch built Scratch built Pitot tube Scratch built Nav lights. Airscale decals used for cockpit instruments. Markings and finish: MRP Extra dark Sea Grey and Sky. Kit stencil data decals Small squadron crest decal custom made All other markings masked and sprayed
  17. 20 points
    Koralik

    F4U-1A Corsair Tamiya 1:32

    This time model from WW II times, I generally avoid model aircraft with a propeller. I definitely prefer modern aviation. However, from time to time I make a model for someone to order. I present to you such a model F4U-1A Corsair model from the Tamiya skal scale 1:32 This is one of the best models I've built, all the elements fit together without a problem. Model made straight from the box with one addition from yahoo. I invite you to watch, I hope that the model looks good.
  18. 20 points
    sandbagger

    'Skeletal' Fokker D.VII

    Hi all, I thought you might like to see my 18th 1:32 scale build - the German Fokker D.VII fighter. The major airframe components are 3D printed from the ‘Shapeways’ web site. The airframe structural components were designed by ‘Aviattic’ and engine parts by ‘Bob Monroe’. Other components for the model were ‘donated’ from the ‘Wingnut Wing’ kit of the Fokker D.VII (OAW built) (Kit No: 32030). This model, with associated figures, will eventually be part of a dual Fokker D.VII display. I know I don't often reply to your generous comments, but rest assured they are very much appreciated, Mike The basic list of modifications and additions to the model are as follows: ‘Taurus Models’ engine intake manifold lock rings (3211), ‘Taurus Models’ engine fuel priming cups (3219), ‘Taurus Models’ engine complete timing gear - conical valve springs (3209), ‘Eduard’ Swordfish hinge and panel set (32204), ‘RB Productions’ British wire terminals (RB-P32013). Spark plugs. Cylinder fuel primers. Valve springs. Ignition lead support tubes. Gun synchronization mechanism. Ignition leads. Oil reservoir sight glass. Hydraulic pipes. Intake manifold lock rings. Sump oil tube. ‘Flugzeugwerke’ (Bob Monroe) (printed by ‘Shapeways’) Mercedes D.III Oil Pump, Mercedes D.IIIa Cylinders (hollow), Mercedes D.IIIa Crankcase and engine block, German Aircraft Magnetos, Mercedes Cylinder clamps, ‘Aviattic’ (printed by ‘Shapeways’) Rear fuselage frame. Tail plane. Rudder. Elevator. Ailerons. Fin. Upper wing (3 sections) (scratch bracing tapes, leading edge ‘saw tooth’ fairings). Lower wing (two sections) (scratch bracing tapes, leading edge ‘saw tooth’ fairings). Tail skid (with scratch made suspension cables and springs). Wings leading edge ‘stacking pads’. Rear fuselage decking panel. Cockpit padded surround. ‘Aviattic’ Fokker seat. Undercarriage assembly – scratch built including brass struts. Fuel, oil and coolant pipes, Engine controls – throttle, magneto, alternator, spark advance, hand throttle. ‘REXx exhaust. ‘Proper Plane’ Heine propeller (wood). ‘GasPatch’ Spandau machine guns. Gun installations. Cockpit control cables – rudder, ailerons and elevator. Cockpit cross bracing lines. Gun firing cables. Gun synchronization mechanism. Engine controls. Instrument leads/cables. Fuel pressure pump pipe. Seat harness. Rigging points. External flight control lines. ‘Steve Robson’ handmade wheels and tyres. Photo-etch radiator. Radiator shutter and control cable/pulley. All internal cross bracing cables. Aileron control cables with associated pulleys. As usual I've created a downloadable build log in Adobe PDF format, for those who might want to refer to it for reference or build details. It contains full step by step descriptions of the model build, its modifications/changes and is also supported with illustrations and photographs. If viewed in Adobe Reader, each build log has book marked chapters/headings for easier navigation through the log. My model website has the gallery page, so to view any model, go to the gallery and select it. If it has a PDF build log, it will be available to download using the 'PDF' icon on that models photo's page. For any photograph, just click the photo to enlarge or reduce the viewing size. http://igavh2.xara.hosting
  19. 19 points
    airscale

    1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"

    Hi folks Back with a little more... I tried skinning the bottom of the airscoop in one piece, pre-rivetted, but I couldn;t get a good fit.. you can see the gap between the bottom and adjacent panel here.. ..so I decided to try it in two halves, tring to lose the join line down the middle - here the first half starts to get persuaded into shape.. ..and both halves with the skin overlap in the middle.. ..after sanding the join out, the rear of the panel is cut to shape and the waste peeled off.. ..and with some rivet details added.. ..moving backwards, two panels have been added, including one around the oil cooler outlet and a further one is waiting to be stuck down - the intention is to get all the base metalwork down and then sand, shape & refine before cutting out panels for doors etc and riveting in situ.. ..looking to lose another couple of seams, an infill panel between two outboard ones is ready to be stuck down.. ..and now this area is ready to move on to the detail stage.. until next time TTFN Peter
  20. 19 points
    Trumpeter P-51B/C with many additions and modifications. Kit is unfortunately really bad. I hope that Zoukei Mura will release theirs soon. Model presents plane of Eugeniusz Horbaczewski, whos score is 16 and 0.5.
  21. 19 points
    hello again folks Hi Craig - I only do this when using annealed litho, or the soft ali I use for compound curves - a good example of this comes in a minute when doing the stabiliser fillets - it's a really good way of getting a virtually invisible seam rather than trying to butt two complex edges together.. So, fillets.... they are all curved as you woulkd expect, some in multiple directions - I was hoping the dorsal fin was the last panel as the very tip of it overlaps the fuselage skin I can't add until the cockpit is in.. but no, it's the first panel down - I guess as it's the least removed in service.. ..to get an idea of the area, this is for a P51C without a dorsal fin - I couldn't find too much on one with a fin and all the resto pics I have of Lopes Hope do not yet have all the fillets fitted so some assumptions were made from what I could see that they are pretty similar to a 'D' model.. ..you can see curvature & shapes and the fittings that fasten them too ..I did the dorsal fin but forgot to take pics, so this is the upper forward fillet first.. ..a sheet is bent & taped down to start the forming process.. ..a ball pein hammer is used to gently beat it into shape, and helped with balsa rubbing blocks and hard wood coffee stirrers.. ..here I am trying to get it to conform to the leading edge and the curved part that runs out onto the fuselage.. ..after shaping a number of scaled templates were used to derive the shapes - these are side views so I have to allow for the shape as it curves away from the eye.. ..and soon all the fillets were in place ready for final shaping & smoothing - at the leading edge you can see where the panels overlap - by sanding away the overlap a perfect seam results - in fact on the full size one this is a butt weld which is finished on the outside.. ..after final finishing and finessing some of the edges, the fasteners were added - this was a vet labourious process as each one must be punched, then marked with an awl for the fastner, then flattened, then added - there are about 60 each side.. ..once the other side has it's fasteners (I can only do so many at a time without getting bored..), I will move along the underside to the air scoop & exit under the fuselage.. TTFN Peter
  22. 18 points
    Calling this done - although looking at the photots I need to dust her again! What is it about model photography and dust? Anyhow - build thread here. Based upon measurements of a TR. Mk IX fuselage in a jig, along with original Supermarine drawings, she's taken a lot longer than planned - but hopefully my client will like her. Markings are based upon a wartime 'Eagle Squadron' scheme as a tribute to a brave young American pilot with 133 Squadron, RAF, who lost his life days before the Squadron transferred to the USAAF: Gene P Neville Back in a mo with some more (and just noticed a panel line I need to sort). Iain
  23. 18 points
    June 18/19 Finally, I’m really painting. A first coat of paint reveals flaws and with gloss black, they are amplified at least 3 times over a flat finish. I always start painting on the bottom, just in case I have airbrush or paint issues, but in this case, Tamiya Gloss Black lacquer (TS-14) sprayed beautifully. This paint was decanted from the rattle can then thinned with about 40% of Tamiya lacquer thinner. I expected a few flaws underneath, because this is where the kit parts do not fit very well, but I did not expect to still see so many seam lines and other flaws. The rear, however, came out looking great. With that shiny coat of X-22 over the Archer rivets, it almost looks like metal already with the smooth reflection. Back to the drawing board….. And another coat of paint. Much better now. A close up to show that those seams lines are now filled and other flaws repaired. There are so many surfaces that from this angle, it almost looks wrinkled. In the background, I’ve been busy cleaning up, assembling and painting other parts that will be attached later for ease of handling. The landing gear, doors and hardware are ready for final assembly. And here’s my first shot at painting the exhausts, which have gone from this: To this, using Alclad Stainless Steel. For the inside, I used Alclad Steel, followed by a dusting of rust to replicate reference pics. Although I’m getting near the end of this build, I still have a lot to do. Missiles, the main fuel tank and dozens of tiny bits still need to be attended to. I’m a bit nervous about decaling, because I normally shoot a good sealing coat of X-22 over the decals to seal them in and reduce decal film edges. On this nice gloss black finish, X-22 might make the finish look too artificial. I guess time will tell! Cheers, Chuck
  24. 18 points
    All parts dryfitted :
  25. 18 points
    Vynce804

    Revell 1/32 Ju88

    Well it’s finally finished! Overall a really enjoyable build. A great kit with some fit issues but excellent detail and brilliant value for money. I had to work quite hard on the scratch building and re scribing some panel details as I’m not a natural builder. Aftermarket was obviously the engine and also brass machine gun barrels. I should probably have used resin wheels. And I think Andy (monthebiff) mentioned seat belts and I regret not putting them in now but at the time I was pushing the build on and didn’t have any to hand and didn’t want to wait. What next? Well the airfix hellcat is only a week away! cheers Matt
  26. 18 points
    corsairlada

    Last HIEN - KI-61 II Kai

    Hasegawa Ki-61 1/32 Alley Cats conversion cockpit photoetche Brengun exhaust Quickbost colors Gunze C
  27. 18 points
    Quick follow up because I just sprayed X-22 on everything to smooth things out. BEFORE: AFTER: I'll let this dry for a few days, sand out the tiny flaws, then give it another coat to create a nice smooth finish for bare metal painting. Cheers, Chuck
  28. 18 points
    I was asked to repost pics of my Revell Has. Spitfire...could not find the original pictures,so we re shot some. They're not great.. but kinda in the middle of things at the moment.. This is the older kit..won't go into the differences comparing it to the new one..no point as this kit is getting hard to find. .Traded my last one to Martin.. hope he posts some WIP here. Back to fishing..Cheers for now...Bill.
  29. 18 points
    Vynce804

    Revell 1/32 Ju88

    Hi All, After seemingly endless masking I’m almost done with the painting bar a little touching up. I used mr color paints and they were really great and performed faultlessly. Gloss coat next and then a few decals before weathering. cheers Matt
  30. 17 points
    I was inspired by a photo that I recently found on Facebook that I felt would be a great thing to make in 1/32 scale. I have been looking for a project that would be something different to the usual aircraft model, without taking me too far away from my preferred genre. This ‘thing’ seemed to have been wheeled out for special occasions and was based at RAAF Butterworth in Malaysia whilst our Mirages were stationed there. Whilst not strictly an aeroplane as such, it was based upon the Mirage and saw a great deal of action from pilots who were celebrating particular milestones. I hope it is suitable for a build log in this part of the forum. Firstly, the pic that inspired me. (Copied from the ADF Serials Facebook page). I recalled that I had seen pictures of a couple of the pilots that I have done builds of recently with them sitting in this contraption, so I got in touch with Sean Trestrail and asked him if he had a pic. He sent me back this one, and I decided there and then that I was going to build a model of it, with him sitting inside it. This moment was captured after Sean’s 1000th Mirage hour. I haven’t used my 3D printer for ages, so I took the opportunity to get it back into action quickly printing out 2 x 44 gallon drums and a cone scaled to 1/32. Next up, I cut some wings and a tail out of plastic card. I then assembled the parts to see if the project was feasible. I hollowed out the ‘cockpit’ in the forward drum and made up a pilot out of a few different figures that I had laying around. By the time he is finished he will be mostly made up of superglue, as the original body of the pilot was standing and the arms and legs have had to be significantly modified. A quick dry fit to see how it fit together. I primed it with SMS primer filler, which once sanded down has smoothed the layers of the 3D printed fuselage and nose. I scratch built one of the small wheels and copied it to make the two main wheels, and also made up the front wheel in a slightly different pattern. I made up a higher tail and have been playing around with the pilots head and tweaking the posture to match the first of Sean’s pictures as above. As can be seen, there is virtually no evidence of 3D printing under the coat of Tamiya fine surface primer.
  31. 17 points
    I built this one a while back and have just had the opportunity to attend Eric G's lair where Eric and I spent a day photographing models (well Eric did while I watched!!). The kit is the Tamiya E which had the usual mods, removal of raised panels, re-scribing etc. I used Aires seats, Eduard interior etch, slime lights, engine internals, Sparrow missiles and wheels, GT cans (not as detailed as Aires or Eduard but the only available that are the correct diameter), Sierra Hotel seamless intakes, Zacto sidewinders, resin cluster bombs (can't remember who by) and Master pitot and AOA probes. The kit was painted freehand with MRP paints which are excellent. I spent around 12 months to complete her enough of my drivel, lets let the pictures do the talking! ENJOY!
  32. 17 points
    first info seen on https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=105045&start=2475 based on their facebook, injection molded kit https://www.facebook.com/pg/ibgmodels/posts/?ref=page_internal first Polish made injection plastic model kit in 1/32 scale - first ever injection model of the legendary P.11c plane in this scale - researched and design based on repair documentation - full interior - full riveting - realistic corrugated sheet structure - realistic Merkury VS2 engine jan
  33. 17 points
    Tim aka Wunwinglow was so kind to print the sponsons on his Form2 for me - thank you very much, Tim! I have spent the last evening preparing the first sponson - the nonskid on the walkways was applied using Tamiya putty, rivets lost during sanding were replaced with Archer ones. The walkways are very rough on MH-53Es, hence the use of Tamiya Putty instead of Mr Surfacer. The center fuselage windows were closed and puttied as well.
  34. 17 points
    AlexM

    1/32 Marauder

    I also printed the instrument panel. I plan to use instrument dial decals, which Peter (Airscale) kindly sent me:
  35. 17 points
    Vynce804

    Revell 1/32 Ju88

    Hi All, have applied a dark brown panel line wash and have shaded the paint with oils to give it some depth and then a final flat coat. Almost ready for final assembly! cheers Matt
  36. 17 points
    An update on the Aeromarine build... Have been working on the piping for the fuel tanks. Some free styling was needed to squeeze everything beneath the cockpit construction, well most of it won't be visible anyways... Also been spending some time, actually a lot of time, finding appropriate fonts for the decals/texting for the Aeromarine. What I thought would be easy, turned out to be a bit of a nuisance. I've literally been trawling through font pages to find text's similar to the ones on the old Aeromarine photos... I had to give up on the 'KEY WEST - HAVANA' text and cleaned it up in photoshop instead. The decals have been scaling to get a proper fit. Rear fuslage. Front fuselage. Just need to seal off the decals with future... Thanks for looking in: Kent
  37. 17 points
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  38. 16 points
    Modifications and additions · Scratchbuilt instrument panel (then copied in resin) · Modified kit wheels by combining kit hubs with Barracuda cast slotted tyres. · Scratchbuilt Undercarriage legs from brass and plastic (main and tail) · Added brake lines (Scratchbuilt from copper wire) · Modified profile of upper forward fuselage and chin to better match references. · Scratchbuilt rear view mirror · Added RB productions seatbelts · Modified seat with extra panelling · Modified the lower windscreen area to correctly depict the bottom edge behind a panel · Cut out vac formed bullet proof flat panel and replaced it with thick Clear sheet. · Added spark plug wiring from copper wire · Opened up small circular panel behind cockpit to depict missing cover of fuselage fuel tank, along with Scratchbuilt fuel filler cap. · Scratchbuilt waste gate vent on left side of fuselage under forward cockpit. · Scratchbuilt cowl flaps. · Scratchbuilt Pitot tube from brass. Finish and markings All markings masked and sprayed including “Hep Cat” nose art. Small stencil data from the Red Roo decal sheet. SMS Foliage green and white used.
  39. 16 points
    Thanks Misha! My garden is a nice place indeed - I love the view. I have scribed the first groove lines on the gearbox housing and could not help myself but to cut the gearbox oil cooler compartment open. Not sure this is a good idea, but there is no way back now. Let's see...
  40. 16 points
    July 19/19 Well that didn’t take long. That seam flaw, among other small items was driving me crazy all day at work so as soon as I came home, I got right on it and had them fixed in about 1 ½ hours. First, here is the offending seam and why it’s such a pain to fill and create a smooth finish. This is probably the worst fit on the entire kit, and there are many! And after paint. Still there and since I’m doing surgery anyway, I may as well fix that sink mark in the LEX that I was going to leave alone since it’s on the bottom anyway. Fixing it after paint is not so easy, but after too much experience with this situation, here is what I did. First, I masked off the small detailed areas so that I could sand the seam without eroding them off. Note that the paint is attracting dust already! Since the CA glue is tough, especially after drying so long, I used fairly coarse 400# sandpaper until I had the black lines of the seam and sink hole revealed. I then added CA glue to these black marks, let it dry, then sanded it down again. I then used 1,000# sandpaper and smoothed out the sanded area and the paint on the fringe to eliminate any sharp edges. Once that was done, I masked off another area near the intakes for further repairs. This area was just sanded, along with other small flaws that I found later. Finally, everything was smoothed out with Mr. Laplos polishing cloths in 4,000# and I used compressed air to remove most of the dust. I am happy to report that the seam is now gone, along with the sink marks and other small flaws. There is still a small step at the junction of the intakes and the old seam, but that would take a huge effort that just isn’t worth it underneath a model that will never be seen. The funny thing is, almost all of this will be covered with the big fuel tank anyway, but I’m glad this annoyance is behind me. Next up when this dries, the top paint! Cheers, Chuck
  41. 16 points
    Radub

    WINGNUT WINGS LANCASTER!!!!!!!!!

    I don't think the "oil canning" is exaggerated. I saw the plastic parts at two different shows and the effect is actually quite subtle. Maybe it is just the lighting that makes it look too pronounced. Radu A quick Google reveals plenty of that effect, anyway. https://pin.it/yucshwapn4hgjz https://pin.it/ufprh6ejnqm3x4
  42. 16 points
    Afternoon folks Here's Airfix's classic Harrier GR3 from the venerable 1/24th scale kit, warts and all. Built as it comes, but with some home-made additions to the cockpit and seat. The kit decals and Xtracolour paints were used throughout. For its age, it's a really nice kit. The cockpit is very basic and the landing gear and bays are lacking in details, but with some good old-fashioned scratch-building you can make a decent representation of the Harrier. Happy modelling! Tom
  43. 16 points
    jimvit

    Nakajima Ki-44 "Shoki"

    Bonjour à tous , je vous propose mon interprétation de ce très joli chasseur Japonais de l'école de chasse d'AkEno. Kit Hasegawa 08880 Eduard extèrieur 32238 Figurine CMK Rivetage et traitement de la carlingue pour un effet de stress . Peinture Vallejo. Merci de m'avoir regardé A bientôt
  44. 16 points
    Hello again! I’ve been busy printing and prepping parts. The skeleton and first layers of detail are ready for final fitting and assembly. Everything received a coat of black epoxy primer, for two reasons to seal the FDM printed parts and fill machine marks and layer lines on the CNC cut, and resin printed parts. I mixed up some chromate color with Tamiya yellow and green and sprayed a base color layer. A few days later I received some MRP paints...I've been looking a paint solution since the demise of Floquil. Great paint, and I super happy with the results. Anyway, I sprayed a thin layer of MRP chromate over the Tamiya color and I was pleased with the mottled effect and overall fidelity of the base color. Details were painted in their appropriate colors, then the parts were sealed with Future. A layer of lamp black and burnt umber oils, thinned with Japan dyer was applied, then promptly wiped away. This dirtied up the surfaces and created a good back ground for the details to come. Assembly is underway, with some printing successes I'm looking forward to share in the next installment White parts CNC cut acrylic and styrene, green/blue parts are resin printed, and the dark gray part in the middle was CNC cut, top and bottom halves the make up the cockpit floor and nose gear well overhead. The nose gear well half had a printed detail appliqué added. Primed parts Base Tamiya color Weathered parts Detail composites This stuff is coming up. These are the console panels that were cut from 0.040” styrene on the CNC mill. Thanks for tuning in! Timmy!
  45. 16 points
    AlexM

    1/32 Fiat RS.14

    Sooo, here we are again Here is the trolley (or however this is called). It is higly speculative, as it's based just on a few crude black/white photos. I was inspired by this awsome model: http://archiwum.plastikowe.pl/relacje/cant-z506b-airone-72-supermodel I'm afraid the weird wheels are a bit too big, so they probably will be redone. I made new floats with the Anycubic Photon printer. I could print some surface details. The forward parts are filled with some lead bullets to prevent the notorious tail sitting. So, here we are at the moment Cheers Alex
  46. 15 points
    My best friend is an archivist at the National Air & Space Museum in DC. Many years ago, IPMS Northern Virginia was asked to put together a display for NASM, and I volunteered to build the then-new Hasegawa 1/72 Fw190F-8 in the markings of the NASM aircraft. That was in 1993. I had no idea the display case had made it to Dulles, but lo and behold these 26 years later, there's my little model still on display! I see a couple of things wrong with it (haven't laid eyes on it since 1993 until this afternoon!), but I'd say it's held up pretty well..
  47. 15 points
    discus

    P-40N Eduard 1/32

    Hello Here is my last built: Hasegawa P-40N reboxed byEduard. Nice kit. Easy built I used guns from Masters and tried the eduard Look dashboard. Markings are a bit of what if as I screwed up the decal sheet with fat spills from cooking.... stupid... Anyway, with some leftover from previous kits I managed to figure something convincing. (or so I think)
  48. 15 points
  49. 15 points
    MikeC

    Italeri TF-104G

    Coming sometime in the future to a magazine (hence only one photo - sorry, no more or I'll be in trouble with the Editor), here's my rendition of the Italeri two-seat Starfighter. The subject was an aircraft of 31 (Tiger) Sqn, Belgian AF, 1983. The tip tanks were used for the 1983 NATO Tiger meet, just before Belgium finally retired the F-104. Decals by DACO, intake covers & chocks by Video Aviation, pitot by Master, and RBF tags by HGW. Thanks for looking.
  50. 15 points
    airscale

    1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"

    Hi folks Hi Craig - for those parts, I didn't pull them up again - I fixed down the flat part to the fuselage sides this had the straight edges and rivets already done so it was just about lining it up, the part also had enough 'blank' material to allow it to be folded over the ridge of the shape and be burnished down into shape before being trimmed to fit - all with the part in place.. Hi Johan - I expect I will try my luck again at Telford, but it won't be this year! The contact cement is a brand called 'Evo-Stick' - full details in this tutorial on how to do it and what to use just a little update this week, as I am in India on business, but as I had a few photo's on my phone, I thought I might put them up ..you can see here the big panel behind the main gear bay - this is a fuel tank cover and has an oval hatch at the rear and interestingly a lot of domed screw fixings all the way around it.. ..this poses a challenge when making the panel, as all the embossed rivet detail needs to be added and the panel fully finsished, before a final stage which was to emboss the screwws by turning the panel over and pressing down with an awl onto a layer of tape on a sheet of glass - that way the metal gives enough to get a clean dome, but not so much it deforms the panel as I can't burnish it out again or I would lose the dome effect.. ..these panels were then added and the central cover made - this was made by making a buck with some semi-circular plastic rod glued to a sheet of perspex and burnishing the metal to accept the shape - the radiussed nose of the shape was filled with CA so it doesn't collapse and then the finished part added.. ..the central airscoop had been removed to allow the fuel tank cover panels to be fitted, so this was added back. When I marked out the panels on this part, I could see i needed to make corrections - the skin I added to the scoop ages ago did not go back far enough or deep enough down the body of the scoop - you can see whats missing between the panel & the drawn lines.. the only way I could come up with was the 'seamless' method I have been using where I add a panel and burnish it up to it's adjacent panel and sand away the lip it forms as it goes up and over the edge of the panel - here the extra has been added and you can see all along the joins there is an overlap.. ..this is then treated by sanding away the waste and it is virtually impossible to see the join.. ..the last thing I did before I left for India was to start marking out the bottom panel via a tape template - here using cotton thread to make sure the rivet lines correctly follow the contour of the scoop and are straight & vertical when seen from the side.. I hope to be able to pre-rivet the part, but it is going to be tricky to get a good close panel line fit accross three mating sides... ..one for when I get back.. TTFN Peter
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