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Out2gtcha

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Everything posted by Out2gtcha

  1. I have to say, Im no 109-O-file and have not even built one in our scale. I do however have several in my stash, and do like the vast plethora of schemes and colors. With all that said, and having built quit a few of the old mans kit, I will definitely be in for one of these.
  2. By no means any offence taken what-so-ever. I'm simply putting things in perspective for those who don't have the kit, but might want to build it. It is in fact a complex kit, but to me the engineering is perfect, and I am only attempting to show another perspective since my view is also opinion.
  3. Once again, I feel the need to point out that is opinion and not fact. As to the financial part of it, for all we know the downing of their 1/32nd line may have been part of Tamiya-sans plan all along and had 0 to do with the Mossie. No one knows for sure, but saying their Mosquito caused the collapse of an entire range of models is much less opinion and much more pure conjecture.
  4. The one I reviewed back in the fall of 2019 was a re-release from 2018 that included new Cartograf decals. https://www.largescaleplanes.com/reviews/review.php?rid=2249
  5. Well isn't that right out of the blue! I did a review on the ol girl a ways back, and like you never thought we'd see any AM for this girl after all these decades. Shes nearly as old as I am.
  6. Same, same, my first ever 1/144th scale kit purchased. At 20"/51cm + in 1/144th, imagine the 7'/213cm model in 1/32nd......
  7. Getting hyped for this one....... I was planning on a possible Mi-24 build next after my T-Cat, but after viewing a build log on it, I think this might be my next build for something different and not very complicated OOB.
  8. Well boys if I have any issues with or missed parts for my current project I know where to look now!
  9. That is a bit of kick in the jublies for sure Dan. If you look at the bright side, much better to catch it now in this stage than after printing anything more, or even worse after the kit has gone for sale. It will all lead to a much better and more accurate product in the end for sure!
  10. Having built a Tam Mossie for a customer a year or so after it was released and I have to say that assessment is pretty opposite to what I found when actually building it. The "complexity" of the kit doesn't come from over-engineering, but just engineering. If you follow the instructions it goes and fits together like a jigsaw puzzle should. The issue to me is that type of kit is just simply a different type of kit with a LOT of detail to it. To me the engineering that Tamiya has put into the kit doesn't necessarily make it harder to put together, but it actually makes the whole thing "click" together sub-part group by sub-part group. Yes, it does have a LOT of parts that have to fit together in a specific manor, but the engineering is nearly perfect as far as how it is laid out and goes together. Just because it has more parts and the engineering is in fact more complex and detailed, doesn't make it over engineered. AAMOF, Id say if you like building complex and detailed kits the Tam Mossie is perfectly engineered.
  11. Just pulled the trigger on this one! 60-ish bucks to my front door is not too bad considering the size of the beast. Looking forward to building it, as I have been enjoying non-LSP stuff lately like helos, so this will be a nice change of pace.
  12. There are some seriously cool dio possibilities with this thing.
  13. If you put a HUGE number of kits in your basket, it will tell you how many are in stock/how many are available rn.
  14. Jebus! That has to be one of the largest 1/144th kits I've ever seen. Is the kit itself any good, fit/detail/accurate? Id love to have a Caspian Sea Monster on my shelf, but not if the kit isnt worth it of course.
  15. Its considered an "acrylic lacquer". It is technically an acrylic paint, but unlike water based type acrylics, this one is lacquer based and also unlike some acrylics, the lacquer carrier gives the paint an great "bite" into the plastic, so you get a great bond to the material like enamels. MRP is the same type base as Mr Color paint. The disadvantage of it is that its around $7 or more a bottle, but it goes a lot longer than one would think if the base color is right. Initially when I started out with MRP, I did NOT like the fact that it was pre-thinned..................now after literally years of using MRP I have found that is one thing I LOVE! No more mixing, no more guessing about thinning ratios, just perfectly thin paint that is always thinned the same way each and every time. However, because it is actually an acrylic the drying time is just a few minutes to the touch, and fully dry and able to mask in a few hours or less. I hate to oversell things, but this paint is bloody marvelous! Its perfectly thin, sprays like a dream, and lays down in a rock hard semi-gloss finish with the exception of their flat colors. Cleans up with Mr thinner, but does not need thinner mixed in to be AB ready as its spray ready right out of the bottle . They now have a HUGE lineup of paint, and are jumping into many different specialty areas as well. BTW, their line of flat, semi-gloss and gloss clears are wonderful as well.
  16. Wow Oliver if you have never used MRP you are in for a treat. I used MM enamel for years, but when they stopped putting paints out, I fully switched over to MRP. It's a lacquer carrier with an acrylic particulate, and goes down as smooth as a baby's posterior. Cleans w/Mr color thinner and needs nothing to be added to it for maximum results.
  17. Thanks again boys, and happy Sunday........... Well, I am OFFICIALLY done (building) all 36 exhaust stacks! Now all I have to do is finish sand, fill, prime, sand, paint and weather each one. Finishing up the bottom side on the 2nd engine THEN I moved onto the very last and final exhaust port, engine #2 port side: Im showing this one blank, as I had encountered this big girl giving me one last fit on THE VERY LAST exhaust stack #2 18 shown above on the very bottom. I was cutting this exhaust stack down as for some reason HpH gave me the last one as a shorty for the rear row, and not a long one for the forward row of cylinders. As I was chopping the open end of the stack off to get it to fit, I must have chopped it at a slight angle, as it pinged away from the razor blade, up in the air, and as I watched bounced off a soda can in my trash can and made a couple other tinging sounds as it bounced around and descended into the depths of my VERY full trash can. *SIGH* She was REALLY testing me and pushing me, and on THE very last exhaust stack too! I took a look at the full trashcan and decided it was gone forever....................then I thought better and figured I may as well give it at least and attempt to look for it. So for the next 45 min or so I delicately combed through all the trash in the can, taking all of it out and looking each disgusting bit as I went putting it in a separate box. There was a LOT of crap in the can: After about 30 or 40 min I finally got to the bottom and figured I probably missed it, but was worth a shot to look around for it. I sifted around in that bottom bit with some long hemostats for 10 or 15 min I was literally JUST about to give up and say @#*% it, when a miracle happened...................... No clue how I actually spotted it, since it really just looked like an ordinary gray piece of cut sprue: NO WAY! I was pleasantly pleased for sure. I could have made a scratched one, but had nothing the replicated the exact inside dimensions. Onward and upward to filling sanding, priming, painting and weathering. Cheers,
  18. I forgot to add another great tip I found: - Go to a hardware store and get a smooth piece of 4"x4" ( or any other size that is close) tile you would use in a backsplash or bathroom. - take a section of wire, any wire, lead, Ethernet, individual twisted pair wire and cut a section slightly smaller than the tile you are working on and get it as straight as you can, doesn't have to be perfect at all, just straight-ish. - put the wire down on a clear section of bench on a cut mat or any other hard smooth surface, then take the tile, smooth side against the wire and use your hand to roll the tile back and forth and any kind of wire will get straight as an arrow in just a few passes.
  19. I have found (I work in IT) that I can utilize stuff being thrown out at my work. CAT V and CAT VI PC cable works excellent (or even cross-over cable), as you can strip on the RJ45s and then peel out each individual copper wire from there. The cool thing about using more solid small cable like the stuff inside PC cable is that you can strip back the insulation and use the insulation to replicate connectors or connection points as the wire fits perfectly inside its own insulation.
  20. I am! Its like working on my car.............when I'm behind it I get exhausted, but its better than being in front of it and getting tired!
  21. Can't believe I missed this one! Love everything about it. Well done on all fronts!
  22. Thanks again boys. Got the two side exhaust sets done, but I'm not happy with the spacing after I finished them. After going through my documentation, they should be in two close groups of two, not evenly spread out: You can see here what it should look closer to, although mine will likely be a closer set of two so the exhaust ends will give some support to each other: Unfortunately, I did the starboard side of the starboard engine just like it. I didn't take any pics of my screw up, bit needless to say I'll have to redo the 8 exhaust pipes on the two side ports of the starboard engine. Oh well, at least these 8 won't be as bad since I'll only have to change them slightly to get two sets of two. I also got the top exhaust set of the starboard engine done as well, but this time modified them as they should be, closer together: I've now got all the exhaust pipes built for the starboard engine, and now just need to modify the 8 side pipes and will have one 1/2 of the exhaust pipes built in initial configuration. Onward and cheers!
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