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BiggTim

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BiggTim last won the day on January 24 2019

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About BiggTim

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 12/26/1968

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Selah, WA, USA
  • Interests
    Shooting, fishing, reading, drawing, model building, PC gaming, and metal detecting.

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  1. I'm in the camp of "build it, and tell me honestly how it went". I want to know the ups and downs of it in detail. Anything else is of no use to me. I dont even read them.
  2. Spoke to Jerry Crandall, he agrees that the flaps were probably RLM 76 on the bottom surface, just as the resto at FHCAM seems to be. Question answered, thanks all! Incidentally, if you like western art, you should check out Jerry's work online, or on his facebook page. Some great stuff in addition to his aircraft art! Tim
  3. My personal bet is 76 as well, since that's what they painted the ailerons, but I am curious. It definitely wasn't wood on the bottom, as every period B&W pic I can find shows some sort of "grayish" tone. The top, however, appears to have been wood tone, just as the restoration indicates. I'll e-mail Jerry and see what he says. Tim
  4. I've actually been in contact with Jerry before, I just didn't want to bug him if someone here knew the answer. Looks like I may have to do that.
  5. Quick question on this plane - I know the flaps were plywood, the top side of which was unpainted. However, Jerry Crandall's book says the back half of the wing undersides were natural aluminum, except for the ailerons, and even shows the flaps silver in the color pages. So....were the bottom side of the flaps painted silver, or covered with an unpainted aluminum skin? or were they painted some other color? I have seen Yellow 10 in person a number of times, and looked at tons of photos, but I can't remember what they did on the restoration. Besides, I'm looking for how it was during the war, not necessarily how it is now anyway. Can you guys help? Tim
  6. Jerry said he didn't sell these molds to Grey matters because they needed to be re-mastered, and he didn't want to do all that work to them. He's big into modeling figures and awesome dioramas now, so I doubt that will ever happen, especially with the ZM one in the works. Tim
  7. I have done that exact thing before with some success for my P-38. I'd be willing to give it another try for you.
  8. I would vote a slightly downward angle of 2-3 degrees to my eye.
  9. Good point! I'm not sure what era deck the OP is referring to. Tom's Model Works makes modern ones in 1/32, item #508.
  10. I had to look the disco ball up, because the last time I built an Apache, it didn't have one! Another idea might be to fill it with photoreactive resin, like the stuff I use in my 3D printer. It comes in clear red, and is liquid, and cures quickly in sunlight, or in a 405nm UV light. It just wouldn't be iridescent. That thing looks like a real bear to make!!
  11. Any more done on this, Miloslav? I've been doing a bit of work on my D-13, and I like watching yours for inspiration and ideas! Tim
  12. Missed this one - nice job on that figure!!
  13. I had a set of the Obscureco gear doors, but I didn't use them because I actually liked the Hase kit doors better (with a few modifications, of course). I will dig around and see if I still have them, if you'd like, but I think I may have already given them away some time back. Tim
  14. Holy smoke, that canopy is bad, and that PE part looks tricky as all heck! You have your work cut out for you, sir!!
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