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mgbooyv8

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mgbooyv8 last won the day on August 17 2016

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About mgbooyv8

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  1. Hi guys, Here is my 1/32 Italeri F-35A of the Royal Netherlands Airforce, finished as one of two test and evaluation aircraft. That means RAM panels in a contrasting grey color which needed a lot of masking. The first operational F-35 has been delivered at Leeuwarden AFB on 31 October 2019. Most RAM panels now have the same colour as the rest of the airframe, making the colour scheme much easier. It is planned that in the future both T&E aircraft will be resprayed and added to the operational strenght. Anyway, the story of the build is given in the thread here: https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/78124-italeri-f-35a-rnethaf/ Now I found the time to make some proper RFI pictures. Here they are: Hope you like it. Cheers, Peter
  2. Now it was time to finish the canopy. I had pondered a long time how to give the raised shattering cord in the canopy a silver colour without ruining it. Finally I used a silver gel pen. The gel ink barely holds on the clear plastic. It was sealed with some Klear, applied with a small brush. It's still fragile, but as long as you don't touch it... Four cream colored rectangular decals had to be added. That was done with Klear and Daco Red. Here is the result: The separate inside frame that I made earlier was sprayed R9 Anthracite and slightly drybrushed with H125: To glue them together, I used the new Revell UV hardening glue (by the way another useful product fur us from the dentist world ) . A bit of gel was put on the forward side edges and on the rear edge. You have time to position the parts and when ready hold the small UV light next to it. It works very well: The gaps between the frame and the canopy were filled with Kristal Kleer and painted R9 Anthracite. And that was the canopy finished: Both the ejection seat and the canopy were not glued in place, to facilitate transport of the model upside down on its foam support: And this means......The F-35 is finished!!!!! Here are some crappy pictures of the finished model: When I have the time, I will make proper daylight pictures for RFI, hopefully next weekend. That's all folks!!! Cheers, Peter
  3. Thanks guys, It's appreciated! Work continued this weekend. I had promised a picture of the transparent sensor cover under the nose. Here it is: The pitot tubes had also been installed. This is a fiddly butt joint. The navigation lights were installed next. It's basically 3 lights in a silver box under a transparent cover. So I painted 3 dots and a silver rectangle on the base of the transparent parts. There is distortion, but so be it. They were glued in with Kristal Kleer in the upper and lower wing tips. Here's one on the left wing tip: Here are the wheels after the glue hardened overnight: That's the underside done. Time to paint the exhaust. The reference pictures show that the exhaust petals have a brown-grey coating, with grey metal rear edges. I tried to match the color with this very scientific approach: And finally settled on these paints: The ratio was: 2x H186, 1x CC ACUS41, 2x R91. This mixture was sprayed on, the edges painted H53 gunmetal, which is greyish. Then it was covered in Alclad AquaGloss, followed with a wash of Tamiya smoke between the petals. Finally, the ceramic white surface (R301) inside was touched up and the petals accentuated with pencil lines. This is the result: To be continued in the next post.
  4. Hi guys, Oooh, more than two and a half months after the last update... Well I had to build something for our IPMS NL region display, for the forthcoming Euro Scale Modelling on 23 November in Houten, The Netherlands. It is Large Scale, but not a plane...or is it? All will be revealed in the Non-LSP Works section after the ESM. Anyway, back to the F-35. I added grey decal strips on the inside edges of the inner weapon bay doors: A very tedious job, so I decided to leave the other doors alone. The inner faces of the inner doors are most visible, so the effort was worthwhile. The sensor under the nose was added. A little scraping on the edges was needed to make a drop fit and secure it with a little Kristal Kleer: Its transparent cover is blurred in the background of the picture. This cover followed, also glued with Kristal Kleer. Its mating edge was touched up with some paint. I forgot to take a picture. The boarding ladder and its door were next. They were easy to put in with the model upside down. A picture follows later in this post. Next it was time for the wheels. They were painted according to the pictures from the walkaround on the IPMS NL website: And then it was time to mount them on their legs. Ofcourse, there is always something with aftermarket. Spot the difference. The kit wheel in place: The aftermarket wheel in place: See? It is further away from the wheel strut. Not good. The offending small bush was grinded away: And all was well! There is a wash to dirty-up the brakes, but apparently not visible on the picture. The wheels were fitted with Araldite and the model turned over on its wheels to ensure that the flat spots are at the right position while the glue hardens. The F-35 is on its feet! And here is the promised crappy picture of the boarding ladder and its door: That's all for now. To be continued. Cheers, Peter
  5. Hi guys, Thank you very much for the very kind and warm comments! I had a blast building it. For me it shows there is still life in old kits just to have some fun with. Cheers, Peter
  6. Hi guys, This one is a quickie. When I was visiting my modelling friend Henk, I noticed that old Revell Mustang box on top of his cabinet. This old Revell P-51B had already been started as part of a Dutch IPMS region display table of a few years ago, dedicated to the Mustang. It stalled after the fuselage was put together. Henk said: "You can have it, you can make something of it!" And so I did. I had never build it and was curious how it would look like OOB. And yes, all the rivets would be retained, also on the wing! Sometimes, I like to build an old kit, faults and all, to see what it looks like with current build methods. It is also relaxing, just slapping a kit together without correcting it. The fuselage needed its fair share of filler at the lower side. I used a cheap 2-pack epoxy filler for that, because it does not shrink. Lost rivets were re-instated with Micro Mark rivet decal. The only mods I did was extending the cockpit floor and closing the radiator exhaust area off to avoid see-through effects and interesting light effects into the radiator intake. The horrid seat was camouflaged with seatbelts from a very old Eduard set and a new gunsight was put on the glare shield. The fit of wings and tailplanes was fair. The fit of the windscreen was bad. I used Revell UV hardening glue to fix it and then filled the gaps with Micro Kristal Kleer. The canopy framing was hand painted. The decals of this American boxing were very good: thin and opaque, even the white stripes! They conformed very well over the rivets using DACO Red decal solvent. And here it is. As I said in the title: purists, look away! The verdict? It is clear why a new P-51B model is needed, The most obvious faults are the wheels, the nose, the rivets on the wing, the lack of guns and chute ejector ports, the lack of the oil cooler outlet flap and the lack of external fuel tanks. Ofcourse there is more... The empty pylons are in the kit, but I did not use them, they were not indicated in the instructions With current techniques and build experience, this kit builds into a nice model for on the shelf, just not a very accurate one. If you have one, just build it OOB as a nostalgia kit. Cheers, Peter
  7. Hi Mel, That Silair 15A boiler you linked is similar to what I have and its boiler is big enough for single airbrush work.. I must say it has a very sharp action prize at that vendor! I buy my airbrush stuff in a specialist shop, near Amsterdam. They have a good website, also in English and sell a lot of different compressors and other airbrush stuff. I stand corrected by them, most compressors are not made in spain but in Italy. Here's the link: https://www.airbrush-services-almere.com/compressoren/fluisterstille-compressoren.html If it appears in Dutch, click on the small flag on the top right corner for English. I'm not related to them, just a happy customer. Cheers, Peter
  8. Hi Mel, I'll add my two cents worth. Of the compressor types you showed, I would recommemd the Sil Air. The compressor is the same type as in a fridge, that's why it is silent. I have something comparable, giving reliable silent service for many years now. The oil is not a concern, it is recommended to change it every year, but I have never bothered. It all depends of course on the usage. If you use it every day, then a yearly oil change might be advisable. I never had oil in my air flow. In combination with an air tank, a moist trap and a pressure regulator with auto-switch off, you can spray for hours and it is not a concern if you forget to switch it off. Before my 'fridge engine' compressor, I had several piston ones and I share the experience of the others: far too noisy and they tend to overheat. Don't buy one if your budget allows a Sil-air or something similar. Apparently, many airbrush compressors are manufactured in Spain and different brands are often the same type with a different badge. Hope this helps and good luck with your choice! Cheers, Peter
  9. Hi Rudy, Thanks! Good you were able to fly MBK back in the days. There is still a Fuji for rent at EHLE, I think i should make a ride in it before it is sold. I heard it is getting harder now to obtain parts, so the firm who owns it wants to sell it. Well guys, nothing interesting going on with the Fuji: sanding and filling of the control surfaces. Not worth a picture now. Cheers, Peter
  10. Hi guys, Ooh, already a month has passed! Time flies, I have several "biggies" on the go now. Some of them will only get a RFI. Anyway, some things have been done with the F-35. I've sprayed some clear decal sheet with my light grey RAM paint mix: It will be cut into strips to decorate the inner edges of weapon- and wheelbay doors. The ejection seat got some attention. As moulded by Italeri, it is appropriate for an early version of the F-35. In the mean time, the box behind the headrest has been changed and that version is installed in the RNethAF F-35. The kit seat was assembled and the headrest box was modified with card and strip: The etched metal seat belts were annealed first before thew were attached to the seat: The seat belts are pretty representative. Note that the central locker should stand upright as it is fixed to a fairly rigid strap. This was altered after the picture was taken. Also, when not in use, the shoulder belts are neatly hanged on a small hook at the side of the headrest. I choose to ignore that. Fifty shades of gray paint later results in this: Well, makro shots are always a little harsh for your work... Anyway, it is now ready to be installed in the cockpit. To be continued! Cheers, Peter
  11. Hi guys, Reassembly of the control surfaces started. I show the procedure with the flaps. First, the leading edges were glued together with Tamiya Extra Thin (TET), held in place with clothes pegs: When fully dried, the trailing edges were glued with TET. this time, they were clamped between two small planks (paint stirring sticks) with clothes pegs. This way, a straight trailing edge is ensured: The ailerons and the rudder were treated the same way. The elevators only needed regluing of the leading edges and the balance surfaces with TET. I found a picture of a Fuji in landing with flaps extended, which shows lightening holes in the end ripbs of the flaps, it's on the Ipad on the picture below. So I drilled the holes required: ...only to find out that the Martinair example had closed en dribs on the flaps, see the picture in an earlier post! That will teach me! However, there was an advantage. On the picture above, you see that the spring is easily removed from it's peg. Guess who did not read the instructions carefully enough? In the times before superglue, when this kit was born, a retainer had to be glued on the peg to hold the spring in place. Well, now I can reach the peg to fix the spring with super glue before closing the flaps again. Cheers, Peter
  12. The work has started. First I had to undo the not-so-very-good work done by the first owner. The halves of flaps, ailerons and rudder were not aligned with each other, some of them had a shift of more than a mm at one side. For example, here are the flaps: The rudder was worse, but I forgot to take a picture of it. While the leading edges and the sides popped apart easily, this was not the case with the trailing edges. In order to preserve the delicate surface detailing, out came the JLC razor saw to carefully saw the halves apart: The flap hinges did not survive the handling intact, but I could save the detailing. Here's a picture of the rudder halves, sawed apart: And the outer sides: There's only a tiny scar, which is easily repaired. I've taken off the trim tab, it's easier to replace it with a piece of plastic strip. The same procedure was needed for the ailerons. Fortunately, the elevators halves were glued correct. The connecting axle was already broken. What did not survive were the small posts in the fixed part of the horizontal stabilizer, which anchor the springs holding the elevator in place: The same holds for the small spring posts in the wing. However, these are easy to replace. Some scars resulting from disassembly and glue marks of the first owner have to be removed as well. For example at the location of the main gear on the wings: And at the location of the horizontal stabilizer: Thanks to the size, these scars and glue marks can easily be dealt with using small sanding sticks while preserving the surrounding surface details. The ones made by Flory Models are ideally suited for this task. Next will be the reassembly of the control surfaces. Cheers, Peter
  13. Thanks guys! Good catch, Cap'n Wannabe, thanks! The kit has indeed a constant speed prop, the pedestal has a pitch lever. I checked the pictures: the Martinair Fuji's had a fixed pitch prop and the throttle lever is at the location of the pitch lever. So I will have to modify the pedestal accordingly and have to check if the kit propeller blades have a representative pitch for a fixed pitch prop. If not, I will have to change that. I've made notes in the instructions. Cheers, Peter
  14. Thanks guys! Well, what's in the box? The instructions and the decals: An empty sprue with the stand to keep it on its three weels and a sprue with wheel spats and some interior parts: A red and a black sprue with interior parts: A sprue with not very convincing figures; the same as in the Cessna and probably the same as in the Hughes 500: Sprues with engine and cowling parts and a flexible sprue with torsion links for the undercarriage and a battery holder to power the electric motor (not in the box anymore ), landing and taxi lights: A blister with sliding canopy and rear part of the cabin, a blister with small metal parts for undercarriage and engine, optional rubber tyres and other stuff, a clear sprue with the windows and the landing light cover: I have put the detached control surfaces in separate bags, including the wing tips, I did the same with detached undercarriage parts, other small parts etc. The black parts are the interior floor and a holder for the electric motor if you wish to spin the prop: Finally the wing- and fuselage halfs and the small light bulbs. One of the lights is gone, so these won't be used: As an extra I got "mini-me" from my modelling friend Meindert: the Eidai 1/72 version. Don't be surprised if it will sometimes make an appearance in this thread: The plan is to make a Fuji of "Martinair Vliegschool" like the one below: You already see that Martinair used two different versions of the Fuji. The rear one has a different cowling than the forward one. The forward Fuji on the picture has the same cowling as in the kit, so most probably I will model PH-MBK. Also I will not need the wheel spats. I haven't see any pictures of Martinair Fuji's with wheel spats installed. I will start with neatening the control surfaces. They are movable and their leading edges fit nicely into recesses at the trailing edge of wings and tailplanes. The best approach is to finish them in nice white paint before they are attached. It will be fairly easy to mask them when the whole model will be sprayed. I think this way I will avoid nasty paint ridges. To be continued... Cheers, Peter
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