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mgbooyv8

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mgbooyv8 last won the day on August 17 2016

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About mgbooyv8

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  1. Hi Kev, Many thanks for all the hard work as an administrator for all these years. It's sad to see you go, but ist is an understandable decision. Take care and I hope you will be able to chime in from time to time. All the best! Peter
  2. Thanks guys! :) Kev, the article looks great, thanks! Cheers, Peter
  3. Thanks guys! Hi Kev, of course you can publish it on the website, thanks. Cheers, Peter
  4. And here is the I-16 on a ground plate: The model won a silver medal in the contest of last year's Euro Scale Modelling. I hope you like it. Cheers, Peter
  5. Hi Guys, Here is my Polikarpov I-16 Type 24 I build for our IPMS-NL magazine "Modelbouw in Plastic" (MIP). It features in the first issue of 2020. I choose to model "white 13" which has a nice two-tone camouflage of green AMT-4 and black AMT-6. The underside is light blue AMT-7. For the first time I used MRP lacquer paints and indeed, they are a joy to use, provided you use their own primer. As is well known by now, the ICM kit is very nice and will give a great result out of the box. However, I decided to dress it up a little bit. Aftermarked goodies used: Eduard "Zoom" set 33184 Eduard seat belts 33185 North Star Models PAK-1 gunsight set NS 32015 Aerocraft models brass landing gear Brengun resin RS82 rockets with launching rails, BRL32022 And some scratch enhancements in the cocpit. Here are the pictures: Some views of the interior in progress: Scratch additions, including continuation of the fuselage under the floor by pieces of card and strip: The instrument panel is build-up from several Eduard etched parts. Here it is all painted. The wires represent the undercarriage retraction cables, they were painted after the fuselage was closed The Eduard seat belts were not great. I had to lengthen the waist straps with masking tape to make them work and look like the drawing in the instructions. In the picture, the lengtening pieces are not yet painted and connected. The seat back was removed and later added after painting to ease masking. If you add rockets under the wing, you have to add a representation of metal plates on the under surface. Without them the linen wing cover would be set to fire during lanch of the rockets. I used thin plasticard for this: Here is the engine. I added an air scoop above the carburettor and an oil cooler below. I decided not to add any ignition and control cables. The model is still glossy. Next post will feature the Rata on a ground plate... Cheers, Peter
  6. Hi guys, Here is my 1/32 Italeri F-35A of the Royal Netherlands Airforce, finished as one of two test and evaluation aircraft. That means RAM panels in a contrasting grey color which needed a lot of masking. The first operational F-35 has been delivered at Leeuwarden AFB on 31 October 2019. Most RAM panels now have the same colour as the rest of the airframe, making the colour scheme much easier. It is planned that in the future both T&E aircraft will be resprayed and added to the operational strenght. Anyway, the story of the build is given in the thread here: https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/78124-italeri-f-35a-rnethaf/ Now I found the time to make some proper RFI pictures. Here they are: Hope you like it. Cheers, Peter
  7. Now it was time to finish the canopy. I had pondered a long time how to give the raised shattering cord in the canopy a silver colour without ruining it. Finally I used a silver gel pen. The gel ink barely holds on the clear plastic. It was sealed with some Klear, applied with a small brush. It's still fragile, but as long as you don't touch it... Four cream colored rectangular decals had to be added. That was done with Klear and Daco Red. Here is the result: The separate inside frame that I made earlier was sprayed R9 Anthracite and slightly drybrushed with H125: To glue them together, I used the new Revell UV hardening glue (by the way another useful product fur us from the dentist world ) . A bit of gel was put on the forward side edges and on the rear edge. You have time to position the parts and when ready hold the small UV light next to it. It works very well: The gaps between the frame and the canopy were filled with Kristal Kleer and painted R9 Anthracite. And that was the canopy finished: Both the ejection seat and the canopy were not glued in place, to facilitate transport of the model upside down on its foam support: And this means......The F-35 is finished!!!!! Here are some crappy pictures of the finished model: When I have the time, I will make proper daylight pictures for RFI, hopefully next weekend. That's all folks!!! Cheers, Peter
  8. Thanks guys, It's appreciated! Work continued this weekend. I had promised a picture of the transparent sensor cover under the nose. Here it is: The pitot tubes had also been installed. This is a fiddly butt joint. The navigation lights were installed next. It's basically 3 lights in a silver box under a transparent cover. So I painted 3 dots and a silver rectangle on the base of the transparent parts. There is distortion, but so be it. They were glued in with Kristal Kleer in the upper and lower wing tips. Here's one on the left wing tip: Here are the wheels after the glue hardened overnight: That's the underside done. Time to paint the exhaust. The reference pictures show that the exhaust petals have a brown-grey coating, with grey metal rear edges. I tried to match the color with this very scientific approach: And finally settled on these paints: The ratio was: 2x H186, 1x CC ACUS41, 2x R91. This mixture was sprayed on, the edges painted H53 gunmetal, which is greyish. Then it was covered in Alclad AquaGloss, followed with a wash of Tamiya smoke between the petals. Finally, the ceramic white surface (R301) inside was touched up and the petals accentuated with pencil lines. This is the result: To be continued in the next post.
  9. Hi guys, Oooh, more than two and a half months after the last update... Well I had to build something for our IPMS NL region display, for the forthcoming Euro Scale Modelling on 23 November in Houten, The Netherlands. It is Large Scale, but not a plane...or is it? All will be revealed in the Non-LSP Works section after the ESM. Anyway, back to the F-35. I added grey decal strips on the inside edges of the inner weapon bay doors: A very tedious job, so I decided to leave the other doors alone. The inner faces of the inner doors are most visible, so the effort was worthwhile. The sensor under the nose was added. A little scraping on the edges was needed to make a drop fit and secure it with a little Kristal Kleer: Its transparent cover is blurred in the background of the picture. This cover followed, also glued with Kristal Kleer. Its mating edge was touched up with some paint. I forgot to take a picture. The boarding ladder and its door were next. They were easy to put in with the model upside down. A picture follows later in this post. Next it was time for the wheels. They were painted according to the pictures from the walkaround on the IPMS NL website: And then it was time to mount them on their legs. Ofcourse, there is always something with aftermarket. Spot the difference. The kit wheel in place: The aftermarket wheel in place: See? It is further away from the wheel strut. Not good. The offending small bush was grinded away: And all was well! There is a wash to dirty-up the brakes, but apparently not visible on the picture. The wheels were fitted with Araldite and the model turned over on its wheels to ensure that the flat spots are at the right position while the glue hardens. The F-35 is on its feet! And here is the promised crappy picture of the boarding ladder and its door: That's all for now. To be continued. Cheers, Peter
  10. Hi guys, Thank you very much for the very kind and warm comments! I had a blast building it. For me it shows there is still life in old kits just to have some fun with. Cheers, Peter
  11. Hi guys, This one is a quickie. When I was visiting my modelling friend Henk, I noticed that old Revell Mustang box on top of his cabinet. This old Revell P-51B had already been started as part of a Dutch IPMS region display table of a few years ago, dedicated to the Mustang. It stalled after the fuselage was put together. Henk said: "You can have it, you can make something of it!" And so I did. I had never build it and was curious how it would look like OOB. And yes, all the rivets would be retained, also on the wing! Sometimes, I like to build an old kit, faults and all, to see what it looks like with current build methods. It is also relaxing, just slapping a kit together without correcting it. The fuselage needed its fair share of filler at the lower side. I used a cheap 2-pack epoxy filler for that, because it does not shrink. Lost rivets were re-instated with Micro Mark rivet decal. The only mods I did was extending the cockpit floor and closing the radiator exhaust area off to avoid see-through effects and interesting light effects into the radiator intake. The horrid seat was camouflaged with seatbelts from a very old Eduard set and a new gunsight was put on the glare shield. The fit of wings and tailplanes was fair. The fit of the windscreen was bad. I used Revell UV hardening glue to fix it and then filled the gaps with Micro Kristal Kleer. The canopy framing was hand painted. The decals of this American boxing were very good: thin and opaque, even the white stripes! They conformed very well over the rivets using DACO Red decal solvent. And here it is. As I said in the title: purists, look away! The verdict? It is clear why a new P-51B model is needed, The most obvious faults are the wheels, the nose, the rivets on the wing, the lack of guns and chute ejector ports, the lack of the oil cooler outlet flap and the lack of external fuel tanks. Ofcourse there is more... The empty pylons are in the kit, but I did not use them, they were not indicated in the instructions With current techniques and build experience, this kit builds into a nice model for on the shelf, just not a very accurate one. If you have one, just build it OOB as a nostalgia kit. Cheers, Peter
  12. Hi Mel, That Silair 15A boiler you linked is similar to what I have and its boiler is big enough for single airbrush work.. I must say it has a very sharp action prize at that vendor! I buy my airbrush stuff in a specialist shop, near Amsterdam. They have a good website, also in English and sell a lot of different compressors and other airbrush stuff. I stand corrected by them, most compressors are not made in spain but in Italy. Here's the link: https://www.airbrush-services-almere.com/compressoren/fluisterstille-compressoren.html If it appears in Dutch, click on the small flag on the top right corner for English. I'm not related to them, just a happy customer. Cheers, Peter
  13. Hi Mel, I'll add my two cents worth. Of the compressor types you showed, I would recommemd the Sil Air. The compressor is the same type as in a fridge, that's why it is silent. I have something comparable, giving reliable silent service for many years now. The oil is not a concern, it is recommended to change it every year, but I have never bothered. It all depends of course on the usage. If you use it every day, then a yearly oil change might be advisable. I never had oil in my air flow. In combination with an air tank, a moist trap and a pressure regulator with auto-switch off, you can spray for hours and it is not a concern if you forget to switch it off. Before my 'fridge engine' compressor, I had several piston ones and I share the experience of the others: far too noisy and they tend to overheat. Don't buy one if your budget allows a Sil-air or something similar. Apparently, many airbrush compressors are manufactured in Spain and different brands are often the same type with a different badge. Hope this helps and good luck with your choice! Cheers, Peter
  14. Hi Rudy, Thanks! Good you were able to fly MBK back in the days. There is still a Fuji for rent at EHLE, I think i should make a ride in it before it is sold. I heard it is getting harder now to obtain parts, so the firm who owns it wants to sell it. Well guys, nothing interesting going on with the Fuji: sanding and filling of the control surfaces. Not worth a picture now. Cheers, Peter
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