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mgbooyv8

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mgbooyv8 last won the day on August 17 2016

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About mgbooyv8

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  1. Thanks guys! Well, what's in the box? The instructions and the decals: An empty sprue with the stand to keep it on its three weels and a sprue with wheel spats and some interior parts: A red and a black sprue with interior parts: A sprue with not very convincing figures; the same as in the Cessna and probably the same as in the Hughes 500: Sprues with engine and cowling parts and a flexible sprue with torsion links for the undercarriage and a battery holder to power the electric motor (not in the box anymore ), landing and taxi lights: A blister with sliding canopy and rear part of the cabin, a blister with small metal parts for undercarriage and engine, optional rubber tyres and other stuff, a clear sprue with the windows and the landing light cover: I have put the detached control surfaces in separate bags, including the wing tips, I did the same with detached undercarriage parts, other small parts etc. The black parts are the interior floor and a holder for the electric motor if you wish to spin the prop: Finally the wing- and fuselage halfs and the small light bulbs. One of the lights is gone, so these won't be used: As an extra I got "mini-me" from my modelling friend Meindert: the Eidai 1/72 version. Don't be surprised if it will sometimes make an appearance in this thread: The plan is to make a Fuji of "Martinair Vliegschool" like the one below: You already see that Martinair used two different versions of the Fuji. The rear one has a different cowling than the forward one. The forward Fuji on the picture has the same cowling as in the kit, so most probably I will model PH-MBK. Also I will not need the wheel spats. I haven't see any pictures of Martinair Fuji's with wheel spats installed. I will start with neatening the control surfaces. They are movable and their leading edges fit nicely into recesses at the trailing edge of wings and tailplanes. The best approach is to finish them in nice white paint before they are attached. It will be fairly easy to mask them when the whole model will be sprayed. I think this way I will avoid nasty paint ridges. To be continued... Cheers, Peter
  2. Hi guys, The Fuji FA-200 is the third of the Nichimo 1/20 general aviation kits and just as rare. This kit has a story. I know my retired flight instructor for a longer time as a modeller than as a flight instructor. When I started to take flying lessons in 1993 at what was called at the time "Martinair Vliegschool" at Lelystad Airport, I met him there and thus found out he was a flight instructor! The previous year Martinair had replaced their Fuji's with brand new American General AG-5B Tigers on which I learned to fly. One of our members of the flying club bought the Nichimo kit to build the plane he learned to fly on. Not being a modeller he stalled and gave the model to my flight instructor. He kept it for years in the stash but did not came around to build it properly. So last year, with permission of the previous owner, he sold it to me for a nice price. And I'm going to build it! First I had to dismantle it. Being the start of the build according to the instructions, only the wings, fuselage and tailplanes had been glued together, I'm afraid not very expertly. Luckily, nothing had been done with the interior, engine and the clear parts! The trick of putting the glued parts in the freezer helped to disassemble the wings, fuselage and landing gear. For tailplane - and control surface halves, other drastic measures had to be taken, but that's for a next post. Here's the box top: And here are the box contents after disassembly of the kit and a little ordering of the parts in small bags: That's it for now. In the next post (maybe tomorrow if I have time) I will show the sprues and the parts, as I think you would like to see what this kit looks like. Cheers, Peter
  3. Thanks guys! CruZz, you are right! With the doors on masking and spraying is not an option anymore. I think I'm going to spray some clear decal sheet in the lighter RAM colour and put decal strips on the inner edges of the doors. Cheers, Peter
  4. As mentioned in the previous post, the main landing gear was installed. Remember that the instructions wanted you to put in the main gear in an early stage. Putting it in later could be troublesome. Well, indeed, withhout modification it would not be possible. The trick was to enlarge the holes a little bit and make the top surface of the pin above the main gear strut angled instead of 90 degrees by filing it skewed. I hope this makes sense, I forgot to take a picture of it. This way you can swing the main gear leg into position by rotating it around the side stay in the vertical gear bay wall. The gear legs will then click into position. By adding the drag brace (the forward strut) and the retraction jack, the gear will be secured in place. Here are the results: Then, work started on the stores: the GBU-31 JDAMs and the AIM120 AMRAAMs: The photo-etch parts on the JDAM's was fiddly to bend. In hindsight, I should have annealed these parts first. Painted and decalled, the weapons look like this: The AMRAAMS: The JDAMs without pylons: And here the JDAMs with pylons: And here are the weapons installed in the weapon bays: To be continued! Cheers, Peter
  5. Sorted! Anyway, where were we... ah, yes! After making the canopy frame, I attached the hinges to almost all the doors and gave their interiors an additional layer of white: The small doors were put into the outer weapon and the main gear legs were painted :bay doors Deviating from the instructions, I installed the large inner weapon bay doors first: Followed by the small inner weapon bay doors: This way, they were much easier to install than toe other way around, as suggested by the instructions. Adding the pylons for the AMRAAMs was very fiddly. what I should have done was putting their mounting plates to the hinges of the small inner doors, before mounting them to the fuselage. This acually WAS suggested by the instructions! Now I had to remove small alignment pins in order to make them fit. Here are the results: The outer weapon bay doors were easier to install, but nevertheless fiddly due to the large amount of hinges: On the picture, the main landing gear is already installed. To be continued in the next post... Cheers, Peter
  6. Thanks guys! Has it really been more than 3 months ago? Time's flying fast! I did some work on the F-35 but did not get around posting it, life got in the way etc. Started making a post, uploaded new pictures to Flickr only to find out that the forum software did not allow the Flickr URL to be inserted into the post. Apparently something has changed. Maybe something within Flickr? Hmm, I have to sort this out first before I can continue. Cheers, Peter
  7. Hi Eric, A very good start and nice corrections you already apply to the kit. Are you also going to alter the shape of the APU (IPP) exhaust next to the new panels? More info that might help to correct the model can be found here: https://designer.home.xs4all.nl/models/f35-32/f35-32-1.htm and here: https://www.ipms.nl/walkarounds/walkaround-jets/2037-walkaround-f35-jsf I hope it is useful to you. I decided to skip the corrections and just build it, otherwise I would never finish it. Keep up the good work! Cheers, Peter
  8. Like the others, I will follow with great interest! Cheers, Peter
  9. Hi Erik, Nice start and very good information in your thread! I'll follow along. Cheers, Peter
  10. Hi guys, Time flies! I've been busy putting the hinges on the weaponbay doors, but forgot to take pictures. I will take them later. Meanwhile I decided I did not want to correct the too flat tyres of the kit wheels. Instead I bought these: No comparison! Another focal point of the model is the canopy. The internal frame is provided by Italeri, but according to the instructions, it has to be build-up in the transparent part. Not ideal to avoid glue smears and to paint it. I decided to see if it was feasible to build and paint the canopy frame separately. The side frames have nasty mould seams over the rivets: The easiest way was remove them all and re-instate the rivets with Archer Rivets. One of the sheets I have contains strips with the right pitch. Indeed it was feasible to build up the canopy frame separate. Do several dry runs to ensure everything fits as it should! The Eduard interior set also includes useful parts for the lower edge of the canopy, its securing latches and the rear bulkhead. Here is the result. The other etched parts are from the kit: Two small mounting plates for the canopy hinges were added on the forward ledge, as seen on pictures The black dots are the Archer rivets. The frame is now ready to Paint it Black. To be continued. Cheers, Peter
  11. Hi John, What a great subject! I learned to fly in it and for a long time I had the idea to scratchbuild one too. But looking at my stash I shelved the idea. Great start and I will follow. Keep up the good work! Cheers, Peter
  12. Hi guys, A short update. The masking was removed: There was no overspray in cockpit and bays! I'm happy to report that the MRP Have Glass matt laquer gives a very subtle metal sheen to the model. The doors also unmasked fairly good: On a few doors, a bit of overspray was visible or some paint torn away. And.... the pieces of masking tape with part numbers scribbled on them left their trace on the white paint. The numbers are faintly readable. So permanent marker ink also bleeds through tape over time. A bit of patch up will be needed. But that will be done after all the hinges are installed. Attention now turned to the cockpit. I bought the Eduard interior set to enhance the cockpit a little bit. Although now it is much too late to use all the goodies of the set, the cockpit tub can still be enhanced with some etch and there is some nice metal for ejection seat and canopy available Here are all the etched metal parts added into the tub. it is a mix of Italeri and Eduard: The next step will be painting of the tub. Then, I can turn the model around to add doors, stores and undercarriage. To be continued... Cheers, Peter
  13. Good job so far with this big Cessna! Cheers, Peter
  14. Hi guys, The model was now ready to receive its coat of MRP Have Glass matt laquer. Since this stuff is fairly "hot", I tested it on the separate doors first, to avoid ruining the paint job: This went well, so I continued with the rest of the model: I'm not so sure if the MRP "Have Glass" matt coat captures the slight metal sheen, all "Have Glass" paints show. Anyway, there is no going back and I'm not going to lose any sleep over it. Ofcourse, I forgot to spray a few doors. Here they are, with their initial coat of lighter gray for the RAM panel edges, together with a few undercarriage items: To be continued! Cheers, Peter
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