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mgbooyv8

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mgbooyv8 last won the day on August 17 2016

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About mgbooyv8

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  1. Hi guys, Thank you very much for the very kind and warm comments! I had a blast building it. For me it shows there is still life in old kits just to have some fun with. Cheers, Peter
  2. Hi guys, This one is a quickie. When I was visiting my modelling friend Henk, I noticed that old Revell Mustang box on top of his cabinet. This old Revell P-51B had already been started as part of a Dutch IPMS region display table of a few years ago, dedicated to the Mustang. It stalled after the fuselage was put together. Henk said: "You can have it, you can make something of it!" And so I did. I had never build it and was curious how it would look like OOB. And yes, all the rivets would be retained, also on the wing! Sometimes, I like to build an old kit, faults and all, to see what it looks like with current build methods. It is also relaxing, just slapping a kit together without correcting it. The fuselage needed its fair share of filler at the lower side. I used a cheap 2-pack epoxy filler for that, because it does not shrink. Lost rivets were re-instated with Micro Mark rivet decal. The only mods I did was extending the cockpit floor and closing the radiator exhaust area off to avoid see-through effects and interesting light effects into the radiator intake. The horrid seat was camouflaged with seatbelts from a very old Eduard set and a new gunsight was put on the glare shield. The fit of wings and tailplanes was fair. The fit of the windscreen was bad. I used Revell UV hardening glue to fix it and then filled the gaps with Micro Kristal Kleer. The canopy framing was hand painted. The decals of this American boxing were very good: thin and opaque, even the white stripes! They conformed very well over the rivets using DACO Red decal solvent. And here it is. As I said in the title: purists, look away! The verdict? It is clear why a new P-51B model is needed, The most obvious faults are the wheels, the nose, the rivets on the wing, the lack of guns and chute ejector ports, the lack of the oil cooler outlet flap and the lack of external fuel tanks. Ofcourse there is more... The empty pylons are in the kit, but I did not use them, they were not indicated in the instructions With current techniques and build experience, this kit builds into a nice model for on the shelf, just not a very accurate one. If you have one, just build it OOB as a nostalgia kit. Cheers, Peter
  3. Hi Mel, That Silair 15A boiler you linked is similar to what I have and its boiler is big enough for single airbrush work.. I must say it has a very sharp action prize at that vendor! I buy my airbrush stuff in a specialist shop, near Amsterdam. They have a good website, also in English and sell a lot of different compressors and other airbrush stuff. I stand corrected by them, most compressors are not made in spain but in Italy. Here's the link: https://www.airbrush-services-almere.com/compressoren/fluisterstille-compressoren.html If it appears in Dutch, click on the small flag on the top right corner for English. I'm not related to them, just a happy customer. Cheers, Peter
  4. Hi Mel, I'll add my two cents worth. Of the compressor types you showed, I would recommemd the Sil Air. The compressor is the same type as in a fridge, that's why it is silent. I have something comparable, giving reliable silent service for many years now. The oil is not a concern, it is recommended to change it every year, but I have never bothered. It all depends of course on the usage. If you use it every day, then a yearly oil change might be advisable. I never had oil in my air flow. In combination with an air tank, a moist trap and a pressure regulator with auto-switch off, you can spray for hours and it is not a concern if you forget to switch it off. Before my 'fridge engine' compressor, I had several piston ones and I share the experience of the others: far too noisy and they tend to overheat. Don't buy one if your budget allows a Sil-air or something similar. Apparently, many airbrush compressors are manufactured in Spain and different brands are often the same type with a different badge. Hope this helps and good luck with your choice! Cheers, Peter
  5. Hi Rudy, Thanks! Good you were able to fly MBK back in the days. There is still a Fuji for rent at EHLE, I think i should make a ride in it before it is sold. I heard it is getting harder now to obtain parts, so the firm who owns it wants to sell it. Well guys, nothing interesting going on with the Fuji: sanding and filling of the control surfaces. Not worth a picture now. Cheers, Peter
  6. Hi guys, Ooh, already a month has passed! Time flies, I have several "biggies" on the go now. Some of them will only get a RFI. Anyway, some things have been done with the F-35. I've sprayed some clear decal sheet with my light grey RAM paint mix: It will be cut into strips to decorate the inner edges of weapon- and wheelbay doors. The ejection seat got some attention. As moulded by Italeri, it is appropriate for an early version of the F-35. In the mean time, the box behind the headrest has been changed and that version is installed in the RNethAF F-35. The kit seat was assembled and the headrest box was modified with card and strip: The etched metal seat belts were annealed first before thew were attached to the seat: The seat belts are pretty representative. Note that the central locker should stand upright as it is fixed to a fairly rigid strap. This was altered after the picture was taken. Also, when not in use, the shoulder belts are neatly hanged on a small hook at the side of the headrest. I choose to ignore that. Fifty shades of gray paint later results in this: Well, makro shots are always a little harsh for your work... Anyway, it is now ready to be installed in the cockpit. To be continued! Cheers, Peter
  7. Hi guys, Reassembly of the control surfaces started. I show the procedure with the flaps. First, the leading edges were glued together with Tamiya Extra Thin (TET), held in place with clothes pegs: When fully dried, the trailing edges were glued with TET. this time, they were clamped between two small planks (paint stirring sticks) with clothes pegs. This way, a straight trailing edge is ensured: The ailerons and the rudder were treated the same way. The elevators only needed regluing of the leading edges and the balance surfaces with TET. I found a picture of a Fuji in landing with flaps extended, which shows lightening holes in the end ripbs of the flaps, it's on the Ipad on the picture below. So I drilled the holes required: ...only to find out that the Martinair example had closed en dribs on the flaps, see the picture in an earlier post! That will teach me! However, there was an advantage. On the picture above, you see that the spring is easily removed from it's peg. Guess who did not read the instructions carefully enough? In the times before superglue, when this kit was born, a retainer had to be glued on the peg to hold the spring in place. Well, now I can reach the peg to fix the spring with super glue before closing the flaps again. Cheers, Peter
  8. The work has started. First I had to undo the not-so-very-good work done by the first owner. The halves of flaps, ailerons and rudder were not aligned with each other, some of them had a shift of more than a mm at one side. For example, here are the flaps: The rudder was worse, but I forgot to take a picture of it. While the leading edges and the sides popped apart easily, this was not the case with the trailing edges. In order to preserve the delicate surface detailing, out came the JLC razor saw to carefully saw the halves apart: The flap hinges did not survive the handling intact, but I could save the detailing. Here's a picture of the rudder halves, sawed apart: And the outer sides: There's only a tiny scar, which is easily repaired. I've taken off the trim tab, it's easier to replace it with a piece of plastic strip. The same procedure was needed for the ailerons. Fortunately, the elevators halves were glued correct. The connecting axle was already broken. What did not survive were the small posts in the fixed part of the horizontal stabilizer, which anchor the springs holding the elevator in place: The same holds for the small spring posts in the wing. However, these are easy to replace. Some scars resulting from disassembly and glue marks of the first owner have to be removed as well. For example at the location of the main gear on the wings: And at the location of the horizontal stabilizer: Thanks to the size, these scars and glue marks can easily be dealt with using small sanding sticks while preserving the surrounding surface details. The ones made by Flory Models are ideally suited for this task. Next will be the reassembly of the control surfaces. Cheers, Peter
  9. Thanks guys! Good catch, Cap'n Wannabe, thanks! The kit has indeed a constant speed prop, the pedestal has a pitch lever. I checked the pictures: the Martinair Fuji's had a fixed pitch prop and the throttle lever is at the location of the pitch lever. So I will have to modify the pedestal accordingly and have to check if the kit propeller blades have a representative pitch for a fixed pitch prop. If not, I will have to change that. I've made notes in the instructions. Cheers, Peter
  10. Thanks guys! Well, what's in the box? The instructions and the decals: An empty sprue with the stand to keep it on its three weels and a sprue with wheel spats and some interior parts: A red and a black sprue with interior parts: A sprue with not very convincing figures; the same as in the Cessna and probably the same as in the Hughes 500: Sprues with engine and cowling parts and a flexible sprue with torsion links for the undercarriage and a battery holder to power the electric motor (not in the box anymore ), landing and taxi lights: A blister with sliding canopy and rear part of the cabin, a blister with small metal parts for undercarriage and engine, optional rubber tyres and other stuff, a clear sprue with the windows and the landing light cover: I have put the detached control surfaces in separate bags, including the wing tips, I did the same with detached undercarriage parts, other small parts etc. The black parts are the interior floor and a holder for the electric motor if you wish to spin the prop: Finally the wing- and fuselage halfs and the small light bulbs. One of the lights is gone, so these won't be used: As an extra I got "mini-me" from my modelling friend Meindert: the Eidai 1/72 version. Don't be surprised if it will sometimes make an appearance in this thread: The plan is to make a Fuji of "Martinair Vliegschool" like the one below: You already see that Martinair used two different versions of the Fuji. The rear one has a different cowling than the forward one. The forward Fuji on the picture has the same cowling as in the kit, so most probably I will model PH-MBK. Also I will not need the wheel spats. I haven't see any pictures of Martinair Fuji's with wheel spats installed. I will start with neatening the control surfaces. They are movable and their leading edges fit nicely into recesses at the trailing edge of wings and tailplanes. The best approach is to finish them in nice white paint before they are attached. It will be fairly easy to mask them when the whole model will be sprayed. I think this way I will avoid nasty paint ridges. To be continued... Cheers, Peter
  11. Hi guys, The Fuji FA-200 is the third of the Nichimo 1/20 general aviation kits and just as rare. This kit has a story. I know my retired flight instructor for a longer time as a modeller than as a flight instructor. When I started to take flying lessons in 1993 at what was called at the time "Martinair Vliegschool" at Lelystad Airport, I met him there and thus found out he was a flight instructor! The previous year Martinair had replaced their Fuji's with brand new American General AG-5B Tigers on which I learned to fly. One of our members of the flying club bought the Nichimo kit to build the plane he learned to fly on. Not being a modeller he stalled and gave the model to my flight instructor. He kept it for years in the stash but did not came around to build it properly. So last year, with permission of the previous owner, he sold it to me for a nice price. And I'm going to build it! First I had to dismantle it. Being the start of the build according to the instructions, only the wings, fuselage and tailplanes had been glued together, I'm afraid not very expertly. Luckily, nothing had been done with the interior, engine and the clear parts! The trick of putting the glued parts in the freezer helped to disassemble the wings, fuselage and landing gear. For tailplane - and control surface halves, other drastic measures had to be taken, but that's for a next post. Here's the box top: And here are the box contents after disassembly of the kit and a little ordering of the parts in small bags: That's it for now. In the next post (maybe tomorrow if I have time) I will show the sprues and the parts, as I think you would like to see what this kit looks like. Cheers, Peter
  12. Thanks guys! CruZz, you are right! With the doors on masking and spraying is not an option anymore. I think I'm going to spray some clear decal sheet in the lighter RAM colour and put decal strips on the inner edges of the doors. Cheers, Peter
  13. As mentioned in the previous post, the main landing gear was installed. Remember that the instructions wanted you to put in the main gear in an early stage. Putting it in later could be troublesome. Well, indeed, withhout modification it would not be possible. The trick was to enlarge the holes a little bit and make the top surface of the pin above the main gear strut angled instead of 90 degrees by filing it skewed. I hope this makes sense, I forgot to take a picture of it. This way you can swing the main gear leg into position by rotating it around the side stay in the vertical gear bay wall. The gear legs will then click into position. By adding the drag brace (the forward strut) and the retraction jack, the gear will be secured in place. Here are the results: Then, work started on the stores: the GBU-31 JDAMs and the AIM120 AMRAAMs: The photo-etch parts on the JDAM's was fiddly to bend. In hindsight, I should have annealed these parts first. Painted and decalled, the weapons look like this: The AMRAAMS: The JDAMs without pylons: And here the JDAMs with pylons: And here are the weapons installed in the weapon bays: To be continued! Cheers, Peter
  14. Sorted! Anyway, where were we... ah, yes! After making the canopy frame, I attached the hinges to almost all the doors and gave their interiors an additional layer of white: The small doors were put into the outer weapon and the main gear legs were painted :bay doors Deviating from the instructions, I installed the large inner weapon bay doors first: Followed by the small inner weapon bay doors: This way, they were much easier to install than toe other way around, as suggested by the instructions. Adding the pylons for the AMRAAMs was very fiddly. what I should have done was putting their mounting plates to the hinges of the small inner doors, before mounting them to the fuselage. This acually WAS suggested by the instructions! Now I had to remove small alignment pins in order to make them fit. Here are the results: The outer weapon bay doors were easier to install, but nevertheless fiddly due to the large amount of hinges: On the picture, the main landing gear is already installed. To be continued in the next post... Cheers, Peter
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