Jump to content

mgbooyv8

LSP_Members
  • Content Count

    808
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

mgbooyv8 last won the day on August 17 2016

mgbooyv8 had the most liked content!

About mgbooyv8

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Amsterdam

Recent Profile Visitors

336 profile views
  1. Hi Eric, A very good start and nice corrections you already apply to the kit. Are you also going to alter the shape of the APU (IPP) exhaust next to the new panels? More info that might help to correct the model can be found here: https://designer.home.xs4all.nl/models/f35-32/f35-32-1.htm and here: https://www.ipms.nl/walkarounds/walkaround-jets/2037-walkaround-f35-jsf I hope it is useful to you. I decided to skip the corrections and just build it, otherwise I would never finish it. Keep up the good work! Cheers, Peter
  2. Like the others, I will follow with great interest! Cheers, Peter
  3. Hi Erik, Nice start and very good information in your thread! I'll follow along. Cheers, Peter
  4. Hi guys, Time flies! I've been busy putting the hinges on the weaponbay doors, but forgot to take pictures. I will take them later. Meanwhile I decided I did not want to correct the too flat tyres of the kit wheels. Instead I bought these: No comparison! Another focal point of the model is the canopy. The internal frame is provided by Italeri, but according to the instructions, it has to be build-up in the transparent part. Not ideal to avoid glue smears and to paint it. I decided to see if it was feasible to build and paint the canopy frame separately. The side frames have nasty mould seams over the rivets: The easiest way was remove them all and re-instate the rivets with Archer Rivets. One of the sheets I have contains strips with the right pitch. Indeed it was feasible to build up the canopy frame separate. Do several dry runs to ensure everything fits as it should! The Eduard interior set also includes useful parts for the lower edge of the canopy, its securing latches and the rear bulkhead. Here is the result. The other etched parts are from the kit: Two small mounting plates for the canopy hinges were added on the forward ledge, as seen on pictures The black dots are the Archer rivets. The frame is now ready to Paint it Black. To be continued. Cheers, Peter
  5. Hi John, What a great subject! I learned to fly in it and for a long time I had the idea to scratchbuild one too. But looking at my stash I shelved the idea. Great start and I will follow. Keep up the good work! Cheers, Peter
  6. Hi guys, A short update. The masking was removed: There was no overspray in cockpit and bays! I'm happy to report that the MRP Have Glass matt laquer gives a very subtle metal sheen to the model. The doors also unmasked fairly good: On a few doors, a bit of overspray was visible or some paint torn away. And.... the pieces of masking tape with part numbers scribbled on them left their trace on the white paint. The numbers are faintly readable. So permanent marker ink also bleeds through tape over time. A bit of patch up will be needed. But that will be done after all the hinges are installed. Attention now turned to the cockpit. I bought the Eduard interior set to enhance the cockpit a little bit. Although now it is much too late to use all the goodies of the set, the cockpit tub can still be enhanced with some etch and there is some nice metal for ejection seat and canopy available Here are all the etched metal parts added into the tub. it is a mix of Italeri and Eduard: The next step will be painting of the tub. Then, I can turn the model around to add doors, stores and undercarriage. To be continued... Cheers, Peter
  7. Good job so far with this big Cessna! Cheers, Peter
  8. Hi guys, The model was now ready to receive its coat of MRP Have Glass matt laquer. Since this stuff is fairly "hot", I tested it on the separate doors first, to avoid ruining the paint job: This went well, so I continued with the rest of the model: I'm not so sure if the MRP "Have Glass" matt coat captures the slight metal sheen, all "Have Glass" paints show. Anyway, there is no going back and I'm not going to lose any sleep over it. Ofcourse, I forgot to spray a few doors. Here they are, with their initial coat of lighter gray for the RAM panel edges, together with a few undercarriage items: To be continued! Cheers, Peter
  9. Hi guys, Back from my business trip and work continued on this one. The paintwork was polished and the model was given some gloss coats with Alclad Aqua Gloss as preparation for the decals: Then it was decalling time. The decals provided by Italeri are very good. And they provided enough spares of some of the smaller stencilling decals, a nice touch. The decals reaced well to Superscale Set and Sol. Sometimes, the stronger Daco fluid (red label) was needed to ensure good behaviour. The decals were protected with a brushed-on layer of Klear (now Pledge): When all was dry, the vertical fins were installed. Maybe you noticed the pieces of sprue at their location. I glued them on some time ago to provide the inner surface of the fins a gluing surface, instead of relying on the bond at the lower edge. This way, the join is much stronger. The fins fit fairly well onto the surface, however, I used wood glue to fill in the small seam, followed with some careful brushing of FS36170 with a 000 brush: Next post MRP Have glass matt coat.
  10. Thanks guys! Bryan, It took me a couple of days to do the masking. Cheers, Peter
  11. Thanks Torben! Cheers, Peter
  12. ...And here is the F-35 with all its masking removed: I'm now in the process of gloss coats, polishing, another gloss coat etc. For gloss coat, I use alclad Aqua Gloss. For the Have Glass effect, I will use MRP Have Glass matt laquer. But being matt, that will have to be applied after decalling. To be continued! However, that will take some time, because I will be on a business trip the next couple of weeks. Cheers, Peter
  13. The forward main gear doors are closed on the ground. The previously installed hinge was cut off to make the door fit: After priming with my favourite Revell 75 enamel mixed with thinner and white spirit. and after checking all the seams, and after masking the cockpit, wheelbays and weapon bays, finally the first colour could be sprayed on. For the light colour of the RAM panels, I used a 60:40 ratio of FS 36275 and FS 36170. The latter is available as an enamel from Colourcoats. For the first colour I used Humbrol 127. This was the result: Then, after 6 months on the SOD, I started masking. This is where I was at the beginningof the thread: Some more pictures of the work involved: And ofcourse, spraying FS 36170 took considerable less time! The big reveal after removing the masking will be in the next post. Cheers, Peter
  14. Hi guys, Thanks! CruZz, I look forward to your finished kit. What I'm describing now has happended in the past, so any changes to the RAM panels will not be incorporated anymore. Thanks for the warning, maybe someone else can benefit. Hi Otis, with respect to the undersized afterburner nozzle - if I understand correct, it is the exhaust part that you mean. Any correction will also involve significant modification of the rear end of the fuselage, maybe that's why there is not (yet ) a bigger aftermarket solution for it. With the parts in the lower fuselage sorted, it was time to give attention to the parts in the upper fuselage, starting with the cockpit. When I started the kit, there was not yet an Eduard set, so, I used the kit parts only. They are effective in recreating the rather bare cockpit of the original. Usually, on a parked aircraft, the systems are switched off, so the displays will be the familiar dark grey colour of any flat screen. However, I could not resist using the decal for the main display. Call it artistic licence. The decal was slightly too large and had to be trimmed at its lower- and side edges: Also the provided transparent film covering the decal had to be trimmed slightly to fit in the recess of the main display (no picture). The rudder pedals are etched metal: A side view of the tub: And here it is installed in the upper fuselage half. The fit was excellent: The hinges for the canopy in open position were installed in the openings forward of the coaming. They had to be glued on the inside of the fuselage. Warned by a friend that these parts can come loose if not careful, I secured them with a piece of plastic sheet: The plastic sheet was later firmly attached to the sides with additional scrap plastic. Based on pictures, I interpreted the small transparent parts behind the cockit as some kind of lights, so I added some aluminium foil behind them. This also prevents a see-through effect which is not there: And then it was time to close-up the fuselage! The best approach was to glue in sections, letting dry in between. I started at the rear side: Working my way to the front: The big clamps on the wings had pushed the fuselage side of the lower surface a little bit too deep. I needed some strip to make good the surface again. To ease sanding, I sacrificed the adjacent moulded features and made new ones from thin plastic sheet (after having measured the originals first!): And the other side: The air intakes needed a few pieces of plastic strip and some putty to fair them in into the edges. A fiddly little job (no pictures I'm afraid ). By the way, no nose weight is needed! The maximum of 10 pictures per post has been reached, so the story will continue in the next post. Cheers, Peter
×
×
  • Create New...