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Landrotten Highlander

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About Landrotten Highlander

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    LSP Junkie

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  1. What you are describing is correct. The propellers were laminated, then the propeller was carved out. This link is to a company that makes wooden propellors (1:1) using the traditional method.http://spitfirespares.co.uk/RFC Propellors.html I have just started working on my Christmas raffle prize - the RODEN Spad VII - and am considering making the propellor out of wood. I know the method and can use the plastic as a template. Just need to think which wood veneers I will be using...
  2. That is one o the books I got myself based on the list given erlier. Have not regretted it as it is the one giving me the impetus to make two versions - de Kestrel and the GR. I.
  3. This should be technically possible IF the overhang is not overly large (with the large overhang the freshly 'printed' hot plastic will sag dut to gravity leading to surface flaws which we would not want. Alternatively - and this happens in real-life applications - an internal 'honycomb' structure should be able to give the required stiffness while also reducing the weight, meaning any supports are less needed. Alternatively it could be possible to 'cut' the wing lengthwise along where the 'tube' would be located - although I think having a rectangular hollow might be more feasible. re the propblades I think that will make a world of difference in the proposed 1/32 scale. - easy enough to do in the cad design me thinks.
  4. I take it you are working in a 1/32 scale? Then you should be looking at 54mm figures. for 1/24 scale the 75mm range is more likely. The biggest difficulty I can see is that in the figure-range of the hobby such 'behind the scenes' figures generally do not sell well, and so nobody makes a specific effort to produce them. Your best bet would be to look for poses that are suitable and 'rework' the clothing (much easier than having hte clothing work and adjusting the poses as this requires a total re-work of how the clothes 'fit' around the body - folds etc). Alternatively you can always build them from scratch. Could be fun.
  5. Same goes for me. Thinking very hard to get another kit and convert that one to the Kestrel.
  6. Now that is a great alternatlive scheme. perhaps I will need to get more then one
  7. I tried to set up an EBay account to sell some of my un-wanted kits (all non LSP) and within 10 minutes my account was suspended 'becausse of my browse history). Needles to say I will no longer even consider doing business through that site.
  8. Would be nice if I could see his work other then attempting to use farcebook or fleabay. can anyone pm me his contact details or link me to a useful website where I can make contact re some of his other kits in 1:48?
  9. Love the work on the propellor. an you give us an idea how you tackled that?
  10. and me too. Always loved the look of that plane.
  11. Unusual, yes, but ugly ? Well, beauty is in the eye of the beholder, I guess
  12. According to the book referenced earlier, and I quote (page 110): " The height of the CR.7114 did not allow the aerialto be completely extended when the aeroplane was on the ground, this could only be one when in flight. The aerial was extended by a chain mechanism and the upper and lower mas extension was synchronous" So if I read this correctly, both the upper and lower aerial should be shortened when representing an aircraft on the ground. On page 111 is a picture of a partly extended aerial with a bend caused by damage. Based on this picture I would say that the aerial when completely retracted should be roughly 1/4th of the length of the kit part. To make things even more comlicated there is an upper part of the upper aerial that had to be adjusted by the ground crew and could extend an additional 250 mm. (For those looking at the pitcture, this is the little bit sticking out above the two-fingered clamp wich is painted a dark metal). I attempted to show a partially extended aerial by having the bits that stick out when on the ground be a lighter colour while the portion that retracts is a brown -copper colour (artistic licince).
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