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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/03/2019 in all areas

  1. At the front on either side of the gear well are gun vent doors that are molded open. They should be closed and another molding flaw fixed. To close the gun vents, I trimmed the back of the vent doors, deepened the hinge with a scriber, then bent them flat. They also need to be shortened about 10% and the corners rounded before you install them. Two more areas fixed and the panel lines are now straight. There is a lot of trimming and dry fitting to get any of these pieces to fit together. Almost every join was modified in order to do so. Kind of a pain, but kind of fun too. With the styrene spacer used at the front of the windscreen, the join is now fairly flush and the top center piece fits perfectly. Before I fit and glue the gun doors closed, I need to install the guns and modify the parts so that I can install the gun barrels at the end of the build. Here I have cut the gun breaches back to fit my modifications and used minimal gun parts. The key is to just get an anchor point to slip the gun barrel into later. The openings at the front of the gun compartment were widened slightly and the base of each gun barrel was narrowed, so they now just slip in from the front with minimal effort. The gun door fit? Not so good. This kit is made for doors to always be opened with no parts made for closed doors. As a result, the fasteners are molded open and the closed fit is crappy. Time for some more “fun” I guess…. Later boys and thanks for your input. Cheers, Chuck
    12 points
  2. Quick update..went a bit nerdy in the cockpits..scratched up a few parts,bits and bobs kinda thing...ground down the kit side walls and went at it. Tried to make them look busy and spitfire ish..was all we were after. More later..thanks for following. Bill.
    8 points
  3. Hi all, This is the first model I've completed in about two years, Wingnut Wings Hansa-Brandenburg W.12 Early. I Used Aviattic's WW1 German Naval Hex decals instead of the kit ones. Top wing crosses are masked and airbrushed after I had an incident with the decals, and had to scrap them.I hope to put this in a water diorama later on, just have to get the products and find the time to do it. All comments and critiques welcome, Thanks for looking, Cheer's, Jeff.
    7 points
  4. Hi everyone, apart from nav lights the bottom is all but done so I can now spin it over and start on the top. I am really enjoying finishing this build.
    7 points
  5. My Corsair Number 8. F4U 1 Birdcage Bu.No. 02576 "Marine Dream" Lt.Ed Olander 1/32 Tamiya kit Barracuda wheels & cockpit decals Barracuda cowling decal HGW seat belts & wet transfers All colours MRP
    6 points
  6. Hello, My name is Kimbra S. and I am the office manager for Eagle Editions. Since Jerry is badly "under the weather" he asked me to share the following information with fellow enthusiasts. In the mid 1990s Jerry and Judy traveled to Germany again this time to meet with Warnecke & Böhm the leading manufacturer of paint for the Luftwaffe in WW II. They met with the management staff including the CEO, head chemist etc. Lots of interesting information came from the meeting. Here are some condensed excerpts from Jerry's Fw 190 Dora book vol. 2 . " The German war industry was dramatically altered when Dr. Pomper, head of W&B received two patents in the late 1930s. these patents were for a new formula based on an artificial resin polymer based paint. This new formula had superior adhesion to aluminum and magnesium. As a result no primer was needed as with previous standard lacquer based paints. This helped in time, money and weight plus was fade resistant. Of course RLM 45 Red Oxide was still needed for fabric. The RLM was so pleased with this new formula they directed other paint companies to use this resin, trade marked IKORAL, and pay W&B a royalty."W&B was so pleased that J&J was interested(to say the least) that they searched their old files and gave J&J everything they had from the wartime. They explained that as the Russians were approaching Berlin W&B destroyed most of their files including the late war color data. The material given included copies of Dr. Pomper's patents and all the original RLM color recipes they had. These are published in Jerry's book. RLM 66; In the original recipes there are seven 66 formulas. This is because the RLM directed W&B to develop formulas that included fire and acid resistance qualities. As a result the color was slightly altered and can be seen in late war parts to have a slight dark green cast, very evident on an Me 262 rudder pedal we have in our collection. Paint companies were told to cut back production on RLM 02 as this new 66 would replace 02 on some parts like landing gear legs. Amazing to W&B was that no researcher had visited them prior to J&J. Hope this helps, and as Jerry says, cheers, Kimbra S.
    6 points
  7. Yay - got the shapes sorted at last! New Meng kit - sorry - couldn't resist! Meanwhile... Iain
    6 points
  8. Afternoon, folks Not a huge amount of progress of late due to work commitments, but I've gradually been adding the interior structure of the forward bow section. My measurements have only been approximate and don't look at this as an example of accuracy, I am just hoping to fill out the interior and make it representative of the real thing. First up has been the forward flooring and ladder up to the flightdeck: IMG_0759 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr The raised pierced flooring for the tapered front section is yet to be made - I'm trying to come up with a plan to avoid drilling hundreds of holes... I've added some detail to the areas of the sidewalls that will be visible: IMG_0765 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr IMG_0766 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr The door on the rear bulkhead is, as far as I can tell, not present on the real aircraft and it's an open doorway, but as I'm not going to detailing the room behind I hope the Sunderland aficionados can forgive me..? It looks as if a fair bit will be visible through the forward door, so lots more detail to add in due course: IMG_0768 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr Until next time, Tom
    6 points
  9. Hi all, This is my "long term" project.No rush,no stress. I just have to finish it by the end of the GB.
    4 points
  10. This time the model with insignia of the Chinese Air Force, is my first in a lifetime model of a jet stationed in this country. The model is the Trumpeter Su-30MKK 1:32 scale, definitely the model is not the best model of this aircraft. This is Su-27UB with changed displays in the cabin. The model is easy to build and does not cause problems. Model made straight from the box.
    4 points
  11. I had big plans to get paint, etc on this weekend. after two major work issues I did not However, this is what I got done this past week: I found and re attached the 4th clamp O2 hoses run added another flashlight started the wiring and battery install, then finished it had to scab back on some material I lost when I got sloppy, but the height is correct again and I got all the 2 system on brake lines, Im calling it good enough
    4 points
  12. In this case I think you are only half way correct...yes, it just a model, but this thread was not really about modelling, it was a historical research topic that might as well have happend in a forum about old planes or chemistry. This is one of the main drivers, at least for me, to do modelling. While I do it I dive into history and learn mor about it. I just spent 120EUR combined on just two book...on a very narrow subject...in order to make a 15EUR kit look a bit more athentic (I hope). Researching history is a main aspect of the hobby, the time when kids built toys for most of us is nothing but sweet memory... cheers Uwe (56)
    4 points
  13. evening folks still plugging away on the wheel bay... wanted to make the big spar attatchement seen here (the long black thing on the left with loads of bolts in it) scaled the drawing and started drilling lots of holes in a square tube of brass of the same size...(always drill any hole in anything first, before doing anything else...) ..put a template each side and ground away the waste... ..and added small lengths of wire & micro nuts... ..andf fitted to the spar... ..also made the gear retraction unit from a bit of perspex acrylic - filed & sanded to the shape with a disc added to the front face but allowing for the slide on gear legs to come later... ..finished all the ribs... ..and sprayed everything with Xtracolour zinc chromate - nothing is assembled yet, just placed for the photos ..thats it for now - back soon TTFN Peter
    4 points
  14. I am jus beginning to feel better from a cold. I added some walk ways to the rear as I saw them on a fuselage picture. I used Tamiya tape painted with testors enamels.
    3 points
  15. I'll have you know that i can do all the essential words needed in German. I can order a beer, bratwurst, frits mit mayo and swear. I didn't waste my 4 years being based in Germany honest lol
    3 points
  16. Well it is time for "paint" over the fuselage and for that I use aluminium foil rubbed with metal sponge 0000 : Cheers guys
    3 points
  17. Mr b

    1/32 Intruder A

    Thanks guys, got it some work done....we are approaching a double public holiday for the lunar new year and got some work done put the wing root and done the main gear wells...... the radome n the radar bulkhead....n the intakes....not going for the radar stuff....but if the radome can’t shut, might have to rethink this. filled in the airbreaks as my decided version did not have the holes sides are together.....but it’s a mess.....not very well fitting....might be due to me...............fitting the wings next and will be cleaning all the seams......n try and tackle the stuff as stated on the AOA sheet (thanks mark)...before that to build the outer wings.....first.... best regards brian
    3 points
  18. Crikey, Bill! That cockpit is extraordinary! Kev
    3 points
  19. I finally got around to fitting the seat belts, the HGW belts are time consuming but worth it! After painting the buckles on fret, the belts were removed and installed....it was much easier to do this while they are still attached to the fret. I found it helpful to trim the ends of the belts before threading them in; medium weight super glue was used to secure. Once all the belts were finished the clasp ends were installed by first taping the belts down to the cutting mat and then super gluing the buckle in place. I went easy on the wash for the belts, I didn't want them too dirty. In the end I'm happy with the look, although the drape could be a little better. On to the pics! Red Baron by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr Red Baron by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr Red Baron by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr Red Baron by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr Red Baron by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr Red Baron by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr Ryan
    3 points
  20. Greg W

    Brazilian AF-1

    I am working for a independent filmmaker here in northern Michigan. He is using both miniatures and CGI together. Rather than render the several military vehicles needed for the scene we are working on digitally, he is having me build them and only paint them in light grey. The light grey is something like a blue screen that colors, markings and weathering can be superimposed on digitally. That way, one tank can be several. Here is how they look when I hand them over to Dan, the filmmaker.
    3 points
  21. Guys, i'm back! This time not with something in 1/48 or smaller. That thing... It's the Trumpeter kit, my second 1/32 scale model, and it's quite huge It's so ever slightly bigger than the F-15 in lenght and even in wingspan, which impressed me a bit. Alright, let's do it. I plan a rather slow and longer build. Some may know very well the quality and what's in the box, but i'm gonna make a thorough review these days whatsoever. Here is just a quick glimpse: And of course, i'll take advantage of the AFV Club's tinted canopy, cause i think it's absolutely necessary for a good looking F-117. I cannot tint such a huge canopy by myself and not leave any trace of dust, etc. In 1/48 or less - it's ok because the little imperfections are almost invisible, but this one is one, enormous and two, with perfectly flat straight sides. I'll also use the GTR Wheel set that i didn't use in my F-15E. The kit tires are from very hard rubber and quite small in size. I have the original dimensions of the plane's tires and did the quick measurements. The GTR tyres are perfect. Only the front tyre is a bit smaller in diameter so i might still use the kit's rubber tyre for the nose wheel. And on the other hand, i know that the F-117 had just about the same avionics as the F-18 and just about the same landing gear as the F-15, so that's the perfect moment to use the gorgeous GTR tyres and wheels. And finally, the extra PE screen for the FLIR and DLIR. This is obligatory as well, because the provisions for these sensors are huge. I did a little mistake though by getting the 4x6 screen mesh in believing that the holes are rombs. Yeah, they are rectangulars... i couldn't notice that on the photos and this is my firt time using such a PE screen. Nevertheless, i think i can place the screen at an angle so they can look as rombs. I plan to start from the landing gear and make everything moveable again, for "2 models in 1" - in a parked and in-flight mode. The canopy, the gear, all the control surfaces and the bomb bays will close/open. As for the airframe - i have no idea yeat, but i think it will be one of the early Nighthawks, something Desert Storm-related in a full stealth mode with all the lights and antennas retracted and without the two RCS enhancers on the sides. Quite weathered as well. I'm only looking for a pilot figure and if i cannot find any, i plan to get the F-16 resin figure+seat set by Aires. But i'll wait on that one yet. Nighthawk!
    2 points
  22. I am throwing my hat in the ring for this fantastic group build. There has been some amazing work done so far and I am hoping that this endeavour will be at least half as good as what I have seen. There have been some awesome Phantom builds online and I have always been fan. Even when I was a kid and started modelling, this kit and jet held my fascination but was always out of reach from a skill set and financial standpoint. Now that I am older and back in the hobby, I could finally get my hands on this beast. I picked this kit up a few years ago and now that I am getting more proficient its about time to tackle this kit. This group build has been the impetus for seeing if I can do justice for the kit. So I have the kit and will be getting the Eduard PE as well as the Hobby Decal markings for the VF-84 Jolly Rogers. Thats about all I will added to the build as i am hoping to scratch and modify anything that needs to be added. I am also looking at setting her up on a diorama ready to be launched from a carrier catapult. I also know there are some challenges with the kit and so I am using the tweak list from Thierry Laurent as well as several other build logs such as this one on ARC as part of my references. As usual please comment. If its wrong or you have suggestions please let me know. I can improve through hard work and guidance from this great community. Thanks for Reading Gord
    2 points
  23. I may regret doing this... But it's been a while so I will attempt to build the Revell of Germany Westland Lynx HAS.3 ICE. I have tried several group build prior, and mostly bog down/interest dwindles, but I figure what the heck. The helicopter is one of 3 configured to serve on HMS Endurance, the antarctic survey vessel. It seems the ship has been retired after an accident, and obviously the Lynx in that guise also, but still a favorite of mine! I was lucky enough to get a short ride in a Lynx Mk. 86 from my ship while I was in the service, so it holds some sweet spot in my heart! The kit is unstarted, unfortunately I won't be able to post pictures until Wednesday, as I am still at work! I have created masks for it as well, for lettering on side, and national insignia and steps and step surrounds. And any glazing. My thoughts is to just build the model OOB, with minimal fixes. I will try to fix the error on the Tail rotor driveshaft cover, but nothing else! Cheers Harald
    2 points
  24. The butt snapper is behind and in the middle of the shoulder straps on your resin seat.
    2 points
  25. My current FW190 project...81/82 coming from Gunze Mr.Color range, laqeur paints. It looks brown to me... ;-)
    2 points
  26. Vincent At some point you run out of places to go. Disappointed, D.B.
    2 points
  27. Silky smooth skills there, Chuck! Love the way the cockpit turned out, wow! That does look like quite a tough little kit to master, phew. Cheers, Marcel
    2 points
  28. Agree with the above. We need to see a comparison photo of the Airfix and Trumpeter fuselage side by side to make a determination and see exactly where the problem is, if one is identified. Mark Proulx
    2 points
  29. Great show, Peter. Love the bottom detail of the upper two sets of ribs. Very nice returns, as well. Sincerely, Mark
    2 points
  30. I got so close to getting one of those , CE died around the same time as my payment was clearing... I still don't know if I'd have actually have built the model even if I had received it, decisions, Decisions... Take care of that set , I have a terrible feeling that its the closest any of us are going to get to a 32nd Brit Phantom...
    2 points
  31. mark31

    Tornado IDS

    small progress on this on made a start on the second electronic bay also made a few bigger pieces thats it for now Mark
    2 points
  32. Thanks for the kind comments regarding Aviattic decals Andy! Great to see your progress with this lovely kit - surprisingly small for a two-seater?! You'll be amused to hear that I am currently working on tailored lozenge and "stipple" camo options for the kit - lozenge to be announced this week - stipple to follow soon!...sorry! Richard
    2 points
  33. Vincent Radu's right. So, in the interests of board harmony, can we draw a line under our previous disagreement and move on? Padraic
    2 points
  34. AlexM

    3D Printing

    Here are printed landing gears from a weird project that distracts me from my already ongoing builds. The "leg" is printed as one single part with the Anycubic Photon. The tires consist of two halves, created with a conventional FDM printer, which could be easily sanded when put on a Dremel. Cheers Alex
    2 points
  35. Is there any proof that the Blue Angels (or indeed any military aerobatic team) are successful as a recruitment tool, though? How many people join the Navy purely because they saw the Blue Angels in flight? Don't get me wrong, I think aerobatic teams are a nice thing to have. But I'm not convinced that anyone has ever walked into a recruitment centre and signed up purely because they saw some aircraft flying in close formation. In fact, isn't the movie Top Gun often quoted as the best recruitment tool the Navy ever had?
    2 points
  36. ...and just because one guy said that you are packing up? If those ar the other guys only aguments...well, just let him be. I am not a native english speaker either and when I hear something like that I always tell myself that my english (your english) is a thousend times better then their French or German... ;-) I would love to hear more from you on that paint subject. So hopefully you have saved your posts and maybe after having had some time to swallow down the anger you will restore them. BTW...one big advantage to not being only an engish speaker but in my case a German...I did some research on the correct US ARMY vehicle paint in WWII (I own a GMC truck) and I just rang Mr. Jürgen Kiroff in Fürth...who is also realy good in RLM colors, RAL colors, etc...to get some paint mixed up following the FS number I had, and what was meant to be 10min call ended up in a super educational 2h phone call...with lot's on insight into not only the color tones but more the recepies and the resources used to make paint in WWII ( "Kernesammlung", etc... ) cheers Uwe
    2 points
  37. If you really care about your research findings, then why not fight for them? Radu
    2 points
  38. Agreed, great stuff William!
    2 points
  39. I thinned down the inside of the top engine cowling, and drilled out all the screws around the edges. I also cut and glued some plastic stripes onto the areas were the cowling is fastened. I will drill those pieces too and try to match the cover. I realised that I need a stripe across the top and drill those holes too. I cut some plastic to cover the inside of the cooler. I haven't decided yet if I'll cut the movable rear cover. Håkan
    2 points
  40. The first aircraft is done. Compare with the non reworked one
    2 points
  41. Apologies for lack of photos earlier in the week - simply ran out of time... I'll do a separate review tomorrow - but, in the mean-time, some shots with the kit parts. The new brass inserts are direct copies of the inserts in the kit - albeit a tiny fraction smaller due to material shrinkage - nothing that's not easily fixed when fitting to the plastic outer sections: I have some doubts over the shape of the HobbyBoss kit leg - but still working through that one and have not had time to evaluate/compare properly. And with an Eduard 'B-17' wheel: Nose leg: Off to do some more Spitfire stickers - but hopefully will get a little more time on the Liberator wings later this weekend. Have fun! Iain
    2 points
  42. FYI, I got an e-mail from Volks-USA saying they will be shipping pre-orders about Feb. 6!
    2 points
  43. Back to the Mosquito again... This time I have been working on Paragons beautiful resin undercarriage doors. In keeping with the rest of the model I have riveted them as well as slightly 'stressed' the skin. Here is the port nacelle inner door And here is the outer door just temporary hanging on the Paragon door hinges A couple of general shots to see how it all blends in. I am working on my photography...promise. Just messing with Depth of Field All I have to do now is run a couple of strips of Archer rivets inside the doors and add the rubber sealing strip along the bottom inside edge of each door....phew! Thanks for looking in as always Cheers Anthony
    2 points
  44. We like pictures. Shoot all angles. The more the merrier. Altho super close ups rarely look good
    2 points
  45. ribs coming along in the wheel well - each one hand made to fit the space given they are shallower than scale as the roof is lower.... ..just the last pair to go... TTFN Peter
    2 points
  46. Avittic decals added which layed down like a dream compared to the kit supplied set. Then started adding the rib tapes from Aviattic but with white decal film, labourious but worth it. Not added the upper tapes or the wing edge wrap over yet in white decal film so everything will neaten up. So far so good but just spend an hour at a time on this process as it does get a bit tedious. Work started on the engine detailing with the Taurus resin set, first time I've used this set and although supper fiddly well worth the effort. Really enjoying this build and starting to come together now. Regards. Andy
    2 points
  47. It is time for some paint over the interior parts:
    2 points
  48. Some photos with where I'm at... Roundels are now sitting nicely - albeit with a few cracks that will need touching in on the fuselage roundels. Model loosely put together - with dry fitted undercarriage - and, for the first time - test piece canopies in place to test fit (these are not the final quality ones!). Excuse the dust on the model - will just wipe off! Have fun! Iain
    2 points
  49. Yes Gaz, those cannons are really cool, now I must scratch a trolley for it Thanks 1to1scale, there is a lot of aftermarket and if you find the resin canopy you will spare a lot of time to rework the kit one Now it is time for new air-brakes : Also scratch the nozzle cover : Well, the main parts of the bird are done. We will continue with painting the cockpit and assemble the front part of the fuselage. Cheers guys
    2 points
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