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Padubon

LSP_Members
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    132
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About Padubon

  • Rank
    LSP Junkie
  • Birthday 01/02/1974

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Missouri
  • Interests
    Aviation

Recent Profile Visitors

309 profile views
  1. I have not touch any of my models in weeks. I have been busy finishing school. soon I’ll be done and I will focus on the Lanc
  2. I’ll be back to it soon. I am pretty busy at this moment.
  3. On the split trim tab, the large part is an actual trim tab. The smaller part is a servo tab and it moves oposite to the deflection of the rudder. The purpose of the servo tab is to make it easy for the pilot to control the rudder. For example, when the pilot adds left rudder, the servo tab moves to the right deflecting relative wind to the right pushing the rudder to the left. V/r Paul
  4. I had a bad experience with the Vector 2800, all the magnetos in the set are way too small, good for a 1/48 kit. I will go for the Corsair one from Eduard.
  5. Here some more pics.
  6. Hello, A few guys asked me to show the way I build radial engines, so here I go. First things first, research and common sense. Not all the engines look the same. An aviation engine with 100 hours, operated at home base, looks super clean when compared to a 100 hours engine located on a combat zone. The paint also changes quite a bit. I have seen radial engines with little hours and the gear box has a shiny Medium gray color. Also, I have seen old engines with faded paint that looks more like a flat Neutral gray. For this build, I chose the Vector Late 2800, but I was quite disappointed with the mounding of the cylinder heads. I decided to use the cylinder banks from a Tamiya radial engine. I decided to mate the Vector’s gear box, magnetos and propeller governor with the Tamiya cylinder rows. I had to build new push rods for it though. I used the Vector’s ignition harness and very thin soldering wire for the spark plug leads. I painted the whole thing with Tamiya semi gloss black, alclad aluminum for the cylinders, neutral gray for the gear box, semi gloss black for the push rods and governor, then dark earth for the spark plug leads. I added the oil lines between the valve covers with more thin soldering wire. After that I put a coat of gloss on the thing and applied Tamiya panel line black to enhanced the details and I call it done. I hope this was of some help.
  7. It goes well, actually I’m quite impressed! About the 20mm, I thought I bought a Master Model one but the package says RBM, so I really don’t have a clue.
  8. Hello, I have been busy with school and I needed to stop with the HK Lancaster for a while. I had some free time this past week but I did not “feel” any mojo with the Lanc and for that reason I decided for a quick build. My top choice was the New Academy -1Z. I will only add the 20mm barrels and seatbelts. Modern US military helicopters, except the-64D, utilize the same kind of seatbelts as the ones during WW2 with some minor differences. For that reason I will use WW2 belts for the -1Z Day 1: The 20mm barrels on the Kit are not very good. They were replaced with the RB ones. Day 2: Not much progress on this day just the first black coat in the cockpit. Today: Cockpit completion and halves, tail and bits glued together.
  9. It depends, usually the student seats in the front. For instrument flying the student goes in the back, also depending of the readiness level of the student.
  10. Have you try to cancel the order?
  11. Jeez! Do you have enough aftermarket stuff? This is going to be a fun build to watch.
  12. I ran into the same issue also and I did the same surgery.
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