Jump to content

Padubon

LSP_Members
  • Content Count

    419
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Padubon

  • Rank
    Hooked For Life
  • Birthday 01/02/1974

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kansas
  • Interests
    Aviation

Recent Profile Visitors

1,210 profile views
  1. Now that you mentioned it, I have a roll of Prym somewhere, I hope I find it.
  2. Thank you. I agree with you About EZ line but I have not found anything else to use. Any suggestions?
  3. Almost there! As I was researching about the rigging on a Gladiator, I noticed that the turn buckles must be inside the wing structure on most of the braces. Since I hate rigging, I rigged my model on the simplest way possible. At this point, I just want the model done. Any comments or suggestions?
  4. I added some decals last night and this kit’s decals are the best I have ever used! So thin and strong, I’m impressed.
  5. Thanks John1. Here some more pictures from last night’s fiddling with the kit:
  6. Hello, I believe you should go with the light blue roundels on the stars on the fuselage sides and on the upper LH wing, possibly due to sun fading. For the bottom RH wing, I’ll use dark blue. Also the plate with a whip antenna instead of the loop one. If you do the Hamilton Standard prop instead of the Aeroproducts one, make sure to add the sixteenth kill marking. Col. Dunham shot down his last and only kill with the P-51 about four weeks before the replacement of the troublesome AP propeller. The black stripes on the wings, had a little over spray past the masking tape used to m
  7. Hello, The lump in front of the cockpit is the oil cooler radiator with the corresponding plumbing. Also in front of it there are two circular caps. For the alignment of the upper wing struts, I glue the fuselage ones first with plenty of glue to make them movable for a while. I mounted the upper wing and secure it well it with tape, followed by the outer struts and glue them after alignment. Alignment was done by placing the leading edges on a open box.
  8. Finally back on the bench. I started with priming followed by two tones of RAF Drk green and two tones of RAF Drk earth for the upper surfaces, later I’ll continue with the bottom half black, half white.
  9. I started with dark aluminum evenly sprayed. Next steel sprayed blotchy followed by jet engine metal color. At this point I applied a heavy thined red and blue in blotches to simulate heated metal. I finished with exhaust manifold on edges.
  10. Hello, I would choose 02. My reasoning behind it is that Messerschmitt may not Have manufactured the struts, they were possibly under contract. Even though early in the war the RLM colors were pretty dead on, many factors can be accounted for different shades of each particular color, for example primer, thinner, how thinned or thick, humidity, air or heat drying, etc. Back in my Army flying days, I curiously counted the tones of green on one of my beloved CH-47D. I noticed 7 olive draw and 9 interior green. It was a 15 year old bird. Again, to me RLM 02 is the most
×
×
  • Create New...