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chuck540z3 last won the day on March 21

chuck540z3 had the most liked content!

About chuck540z3

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 08/18/1954

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    Calgary, Alberta

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  1. Wow, wow, wow! Pure precision. Cheers, Chuck
  2. Super cool idea! Just when you’ve thought you’ve seen it all in aircraft modeling, somebody comes up with something new. Cheers, Chuck
  3. Crowbar in access door. What color are you painting it? Red or silver? I see both colors all the time and I have no idea what is correct for particular time periods. Cheers, Chuck
  4. Superb scratch building, especially when most of the parts are so tiny. I don't know how you are going to be able to paint all this magic, so I just signed up to follow to find out. Cheers, Chuck
  5. Hi Vincent. I use a LOT of CA glue in my builds, so I use them mostly to apply glue, clean-up glue with CA glue remover and make the glue harden fast with accelerator. I also use them to apply putty, clean-up dust, apply washes, clean up washes with solvent and I even use them as soft abrasives when I want to buff out an imperfection. To do all this I need a variety of brush widths, from super fine to much larger and when the brush head is contaminated and no longer usable, I pull it off and use the remainder of the brush handle to apply glue when I need something super fine, which many do with toothpicks or dedicated glue applicators. In any given modeling session, I usually have 4-5 of them lying around in all stages of still being usable to garbage. When buying them in bulk as shown above, it's nice to know that I can throw out 5 of them and it only cost a dime. Cheers, Chuck
  6. April 17/19 A quick public service announcement. Like most of you guys, I use a lot of microbrushes of every description and go through maybe a hundred per model. Purchased from my local hobby shop, they can cost $0.20/each or more. I've bought them in bulk from the usual modeling internet sites for about half of that, but that was when I was looking for "Modeling or Hobby Microbrushes". I discovered by accident a few years ago that if I looked for "Makeup or Dental Microbrushes", I found the very same thing- and more selection- for only $0.02/each! Here's my latest order from ebay (or Amazon). 4 X 400 = 1,600 microbrushes for $31.50, delivered free to my door from China. At this price, I don't have to worry about keeping any of them clean. Cheers, Chuck
  7. Funny, but that hasn't been a problem with me. I use Microsol and while it does bead up, I can usually smear it around the decal with a soft paint brush to get it to lie flat. While the surface under the decal is super smooth and might cause beading, the top of the decal is just the decal, so beading shouldn't be a problem. Maybe there's something in my bag of tricks that I wrote about 2 years ago here at LSP that might help: How to Apply Decals Cheers, Chuck
  8. I actually do like them. I was referring to the fact that I did them the very same way. If I might offer a suggestion, I'd sand them slightly to make the demarcation edges a bit more subtle and less abrupt. Cheers, Chuck
  9. That new nose looks so sweet! PS. I like your worn walkways. Cheers, Chuck
  10. Thank you Paulo! Although the ailerons are only dry fitted, the kit attachments force them down too far, which I had not noticed until you pointed it out. Thanks to your input, I will modify them to sit up more naturally. Not always! If you look at the pic in my first post, neither the gear doors or speed brakes are in the down position. Both are tucked up and closed, which is how this particular jet is usually parked, based upon many reference pics I have. Although I've already painted the gear wells, I'm torn as to whether or not to have the gear doors open. The speed brakes, I think, will be open, which brings me to a point about landing gear wells: Unless you can see inside them easily, I no longer detail them with scratch plumbing, etc. I have spent countless hours on my past builds doing all sorts of gear well detailing, never to see it again, so why bother? One exception is my P-51D build, where the gear well is large and fairly visible if you peek underneath, even without a mirror, so I would detail the gear well in that model again. As you can see in the pics above, the kit detail in the gear well isn't too bad, so what you see is what you get. Cheers, Chuck
  11. Thanks! Alclad Aluminium over glass black lacquer. Cheers, Chuck
  12. April 14/19 I finally finished the wings, including the control surfaces. As with everything else, every panel line was re-scribed and every rivet re-punched. I bet I’ve redone about 2,000+ rivets by now, but after a gloss black paint finish, it will be well worth it. The wing to fuselage fit is not very good, but by sanding and dry fitting many times, you can get the fit close enough that you don’t need much in the way of filler. Here’s how I did it: 1) Sand and dry fit the wing to the fuselage to get as close a possible to a perfect fit. 2) Apply Tamiya Extra Thin Cement (TETC) to the main portions of the wing to fuselage, then hold the parts tightly together with your hands until the parts are fused. This takes about 5 minutes and don’t worry about getting glue to all portions of the join. 3) Apply a good bead of TETC along the entire wing to fuselage join. This not only adheres the wing, but it makes the plastic swell, helping to close small gaps. Let it dry for 1 hour, then apply another bead, both top and bottom. You want to use lots of glue, but not so much that you make the plastic too mushy. Let it dry for 24 hours. 4) Sand the join smooth with #1000 grit sandpaper, removing any excess glue marks on either side of the seam. Remove the sanding dust. 5) Apply thin masking tape to either side of the seam, leaving a small gap no bigger than what you need to fill. 6) Thin some Tamiya Basic putty in a small jar with Tamiya lacquer thinner. Since the putty smells exactly like the thinner, I bet it’s the very same stuff. With a microbrush, apply the thinned putty along the seam. 7) Using a Q-tip dipped in more Tamiya lacquer thinner, swipe along the seam to push the putty into the gaps and smooth the overall surface. You want the putty to be slightly raised from the join, because it will shrink. 8) Carefully remove the masking tape, which should leave a straight bead of slightly raised putty. Let the putty dry for 24 hours. 9) Sand the join smooth. If you still have small holes and gaps, redo them with more thinned putty. 10) For a final sealing micro-filler coat, paint on a thin bead of Future/Pledge on the seam and let it dry for 24 hours, then sand. If you want to redo some areas, just apply Windex to a Q-tip or rag and remove it. Now some pics. The flaps and ailerons are just dry fitted and I will paint them separately for ease of handling. The fit on the bottom turned out pretty good too. The gear wells were painted before I glued on the wings. Now an often-ignored part of modeling wings. The trailing edges of wings in most kits are too fat and they should be sanded down to thin them. The ailerons in this kit do not fit the wings at all, so you need to sand each hinge down about 25% in order to get them to mesh properly. Based upon most reference pics of parked F-5’s, the rear flaps are usually straight while the ailerons are drooped down, while the front flaps can be straight or drooped down just slightly- which is how I’m going to pose them. As somebody mentioned already, this is starting to look like a jet! Thanks again for your comments and interest in this build. Cheers, Chuck
  13. Yes I do! I have a 1997 BMW 540 and 2002 M Roadster which are ancient now, but still in perfect shape. My 22 year old 540 has only 170K km on it and the MZ only 45K, because it's really my wife's car and she only drives it on nice days in the summer. While Z3's are not rare, this particular one is, because it has the 315 HP S54 engine that was used in the M3's during that time period. Of the roughly 300,000 Z-3s made, only 1,565 were made with this engine, so I'm hoping it will become valuable one day due to how rare it is. When the cars were new, I used to frequent BMW forums to get tips on repairs and modifications, which is where my screen name came from and I've stuck with it ever since. Here they are on a couple of road trips through pour nearby mountains. Cheers, Chuck
  14. No they weren't. They were painted on using Maketar masks, which are a fantastic product that I will definitely use again! Cheers, Chuck
  15. Thanks everyone for your comments. While they didn't come for a few days, the reality is that the "Like" feature of this forum let me know that many tipped their hat without the need for a comment, so I was well aware that my efforts were appreciated. My last post and my next one are not big steps of progress that might motivate comments, but I want to document every single step as a future reference for this relatively new kit. I'm almost finished with the attachment of the wings, flaps and ailerons, which all have their own challenges, but the end result is well worth it. Stay tuned- and continue with the Likes if you feel so inclined. It's all I really need unless you have a question. Cheers, Chuck
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