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chuck540z3 last won the day on August 28

chuck540z3 had the most liked content!

About chuck540z3

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 08/18/1954

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    Calgary, Alberta

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  1. +1. It looks darn good to me as well. Cheers, Chuck
  2. Google is your friend, especially when you hit the "Images" tab. Here is the search for your subject where you will find some chutes painted occasionally, but they are much later than the early 70's. VFMA-232 F-4 Phantom And here is a search of all versions of F-4 Phantoms, where you will find that most chute doors are painted, but most are also more recent pics like the ones I posted above. F-4 Phantom Having poked around for these pics, it comes to my mind that the chute door may be aluminum while the other panels forward of it are titanium, s
  3. Checking several photos, it appears that it is a timing thing, with early 70's having no paint on the chute door, while later examples, which are more numerable, have it painted. My apologies to ziggyfoos for the misdirection. Examples: 1971- No paint 1974- No paint 1977- painted, although who knows if this is actually correct 1989- painted Conclusion: If you want early 70's accuracy, go with the metallic look like ziggyfoos said. Cheers, Chuck
  4. I wouldn't touch it. There's plenty of photos with the rear chute hatch painted, including VFMA-232. As a matter of fact, I think it's the norm rather than the exception. Cheers, Chuck
  5. This is called a "Mega Tool" that every modeler should have in their arsenal. It's a punch of sorts, with several different sizes of small circles to either create or enhance rivets and Dzus fasteners. The key to application is to carefully set the punch to the area you want to apply a fastener, then push down and rotate, allowing the outside sharp edges to cut into the plastic. I bought mine from my favorite modeling supply store, UMM-USA, owned and run by one of the best modelers in the world and a true gentlemen, Jon Vojtech. It's even On Sale, so I'd order one right away
  6. It can look pretty dirty! (QF-4E at Nellis AFB) Cheers, Chuck
  7. Great titanium painting! You got the subtle striped look, without going overboard. Cheers, Chuck
  8. Thank you Gents! Most of the time when I can hide the glue under plastic or paint like these landing gear parts, regular Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, which also comes in a fast drying version I use only occasionally. I usually like the fact that the glue takes a bit of time to set, allowing me to move parts around a bit as they dry. Sometimes not. The key to this glue is to use capillary action whenever you can, allowing glue to get under parts without brush strokes. For most glue that might be exposed like after painting, I use a lot of CA glue, including for
  9. Heck no Rick and thank you! This thread is meant to be in informative for this particular kit, so the more info the better. If others would like to chime in with similar posts, please feel free. Cheers, Chuck
  10. Thank you Gents! Shim? I haven't added anything yet, so maybe you are looking at the little tab for the outer landing gear door? It is easy, but very time consuming, so be ready for that. I will only add hydraulic and other lines if they are obvious on the real deal, but probably not too much. While I used to go nuts with detail in landing gear wells, I have found over time that it's mostly a waste, since you rarely see any of it again when the model is finished. We'll see! Cheers, Chuck
  11. Some precision modeling going on here. Terrific job- and photography! Cheers, Chuck
  12. I am often bewildered how you and Peter Castle create such great parts, while the rest of us mortals are just gluing together the parts we find in the kit box. Like Peter, your research, problem solving and execution is so much fun to watch. Your engine looks fantastic! Cheers, Chuck
  13. September 13/20 New Forum software, cool! Thanks to Kevin and the LSP crew for keeping this site feeling new and fresh (with a few adjustments ). Well, I have finally discovered what the difficulties with the main landing gear wells are all about! After a lot of dry fitting, checking the builds of others like Rick K’s (thanks!) and trying to find an easy solution to the problems, I think I have a method that works fairly well. What are the problems? Not much, other than: There is a big error in the instructions. Thanks to “Leitch” for the heads-up on
  14. Much better! The rest looks very good to me. Thanks, Chuck
  15. It does, but the #1 quality of this forum is the pics. If they get shrunk as a result of this info, it kind of kills something. We don't need the same info on every single page either, especially if the bottom of the page is just blank. I'm sure over time you can fix it, since it's not in every thread, like this one! Cheers, Chuck
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