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About wmoran

  • Birthday 05/19/1965

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    Monroe, Louisiana, USA

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  1. Beautiful job on the kit. I love the way they did the harnesses for the ejection seats. I had that kit in the build queue also until I noticed a problem with the large clear parts. My problem is that all the large clear pieces, i.e., both main canopy options, windscreen and clear divider between cockpits have what look like swirls in the clear plastic. I tried washing the parts with no results, and I can't feel anything when I run my fingernail over the blurry area, so I have come to the conclusion the problem is in the plastic. I bought the kit from Sprue Brothers, but they no longer have any in stock to provide a replacement clear parts tree. They referred me to Steven's Int'l, but Stevens replied that SB did not purchase the kit from them so they could not provide replacement parts. That leaves me without many options. Has anyone in the US ever contacted Zvezda in Russia for replacement parts?
  2. The Su-17/22 has a max load of 3000kg per the documentation I've seen, but to me these bombs sure look like 500kg rather than 250kg. I'm making the assumption that the weight of the external fuel tanks has to be included when determining the load. I'm looking for some people with more experience building Russian/Soviet aircraft to give me their take on whether the bombs in these photos are 250kg or 500kg.
  3. Hardware store lacquer thinner should clean them. That's what I use to clean Mr Surfacer & Mr Dissolved Putty from brushes, and that's what I use to do a thorough cleaning of my airbrush after using all types of paint. I have not used the MRP Mr Filler, but I'm making the assumption that it's an acrylic lacquer base like the Mr Surfacer/Mr Dissolved Putty since the MRP is acrylic lacquer. The only problem comes up with natural fiber brushes. If you want to use the cleaned brushes for hand-painting, you need to also get some paint brush cleaner/conditioner from someplace like HobbyLobby because the lacquer thinner really dries out the bristles. Shampoo + conditioner might also work to refresh the brushes after cleaning in lacquer thinner.
  4. Can anyone tell me what weight the bombs loaded on this Su-22M4 are? I have seen different styles (some look like they were made by the Syrians because they were unpainted steel with rough weld seams), but they all seem to be the same size. I'm just not very good at estimating the size of modern bombs. Thanks.
  5. I thought they looked like carbon fiber, but couldn't be sure. The ceramic in the exhaust makes sense because it can handle extremely high temperatures and doesn't readily transmit heat. Thanks Dave for giving me confirmation on those two items.
  6. I think since I got back in the hobby around 2002, I have done one modern jet model, so I don't have much experience with modern jets. I also have zero reference material except what I have found on the Internet. I am building an F-16I Sufa, and I was curious what the turkey feathers on the burner can are made of - metal or carbon fiber? I assume the off-white color of the inside of the exhaust/burner tube are ceramic tiles. Is that a correct assumption? Thanks for any assistance you can provide. Bill
  7. Hi Brett, Good to see you getting a start on this kit. I always thought it looked like on of Trumpeter's better efforts, but I knew I would never get around to it. I look forward to seeing your work. Bill
  8. If you need really fine wire, e.g. 30-36 AWG, look on Amazon for e-cigarette heater coil wire. It is even available in a somewhat flat format. For other size wires, tubing, etc. I second the recommendation for fly tying supplies. A couple of online fly tying shops I have purchased supplies from for modeling in the last couple of years are https://www.jsflyfishing.com/, and https://www.tridentflyfishing.com/.
  9. I have found an ultrasonic cleaner ($50 from Harbor Freight) to greatly help with cleaning, particularly if I go too long between thorough cleaning sessions. I first put the removable parts (primarily the nozzle parts) in a small jar filled with hardware store lacquer thinner. I place that jar in the ultrasonic cleaner with enough water + degreaser (lately I've just been using Mr. Clean) in the cleaner to come up to just below the rim of the jar. I place the body of the airbrush and parts too large to fit into the small bottle into the water in the cleaner. I run it through a 4-6 minute cycle. I then remove the small parts from the jar of lacquer thinner and put them directly in the ultrasonic cleaner. After a 3-4 minute cycle, there will be a noticeable cloud of paint residue around the small parts. I purposely bought my ultrasonic cleaner 15+ years ago for cleaning my airbrush. It has proven useful for many other purposes, one of which is helping to get paint jar lids to come unstuck. Place the paint jar upside down in the cleaner with enough water to submerge the complete cap of the paint jar. Run for 4-6 minutes, and the cap should come right off.
  10. The only problem I have had with using these decals is with the circular/semi-circular decals designed to simulate the switch settings for circular switches. To get the decals to lay down when placing them over molded-in nobs/switches, I have to punch out the clear film in the center of the decal. Doing this is very difficult with the white decals because they are almost impossible to see. It would be nice if Anyz would print their white decals on a darker backing sheet. I don't really see that omitting the decal film from the center of these decals is much of a possibility, and I don't mind using a punch and die set, but would like to be able to see the decal better. I think the effect you get is terrific with the many possibilities with the shapes provided.
  11. I'm a little late to this topic, but if Dragon does get back into making 1/32 aircraft, someone could make a fortune drawing-up aftermarket instruction sheets that actually help to correctly assemble the kit. Poor (being generous here) instructions are also Dragon's main point of failure in their armor kits.
  12. I was going through some of my stash of old accessories and found several Cutting Edge Black Magic masking sets. Having read the fairly recent posts about shrinkage of vinyl masks (primarily those made of Oramask 810), I looked the Black Magic masks over to see if they had shrinkage. There was zero shrinkage on the sets I looked at. I have not tested any of them to see if they have good adhesion, but there was zero shrinkage. That lack of shrinkage is pretty remarkable considering they were stored for several years in a non-climate controlled storage unit in Wyoming, and then for a couple of years in my garage in Louisiana, so they have been through a broad temperature range. They have always been in the original plastic bags, so no exposure to high or low humidity, just temperature extremes. Does anyone know what material Cutting Edge used for these masks? Also, if anyone has had experience using the masks, let us know how they performed. I have numerous sets, but have never used one of them.
  13. I've used Smooth-On products before and liked them. There main website is https://www.smooth-on.com. They have numerous tutorial videos on there, and they have starter sets. This page gives their European distributors: likhttps://www.smooth-on.com/distributor-regions/europe/
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