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About wmoran

  • Rank
    LSP Junkie
  • Birthday 05/19/1965

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  • Location
    Monroe, Louisiana, USA

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  1. I was going to make a Bf 109G-14/AS from the Hasegawa G-10 kit and was thinking about using an AM cockpit. Just looking at Aires, which cockpit would be the correct one to use, the G-6 or the G-10? Also, does anyone have an experience buying from scalehobbyist.com? They have really good prices on the Aires cockpits. Thanks, Bill
  2. Schatton modelbau has some, but the flash suppressors look too small to me. You might try contacting AIMS Models (Pastor John) to see if you can get some of the resin flash suppressors included in his Me 110G-4 conversion sets. They look more like the flash suppressors I've seen in pictures of NSGr Ju 87s. HTH, Bill
  3. Incredible detail work! If you no longer do masters for resin casting, there are many of us here who would buy a book describing the processes you use to make such exquisite detail..(hint, hint). Bill
  4. Incredible looking Albatros Karim. I hope your surgery and recovery go smoothly. Bill
  5. Does anyone offer an AM cockpit for the Trumpeter Bf 109K-4, because I have not been able to find one? If not, does anyone know if AM cockpits for the Hasegawa Bf 109K-4 (I know there are at least 2 - Aires & Eagle Editions) will work in the Trumpeter kit? Thanks, Bill
  6. Besides the Optivisor (aging sucks - adjusting to my eyesight going has really hampered my modelling), I'm fairly certain the leather crash pad will have to be cut off for a Fw 190. Bill
  7. I've looked at the small versions of his drawings on his website, and it doesn't look like the drawings offer much more detail on the rack components than what I've already found. Thanks for the suggestion. Bill
  8. Does anyone know a source of drawings with dimensions for the Fw 190 ETC 501 bomb/fuel tank rack? I am interested in building a Fw 190F-8/F-9 with much of the fairing removed from the rack like in this profile: I have some pretty good pictures from aviation-pics.de of the 190 at the Hannover-Laatzen musuem, but the fairing comes farther up than I need. The pictures of the 190 from the IWM in London show the entire fairing missing, but what I understand is a fuel pump is missing from the location indicated below: Thanks, Bill
  9. Terrific finish on this Corsair, just as with all your builds. Bill
  10. Great job on the scratch-built detailing! Bill
  11. Quickboost makes a decent Revi 16b. That is what I was planning on using when I get to that point in my build. Bill
  12. It's looking great, except you need to paint the interior surface of that loader's hatch dunkelgelb. All hatch surfaces that were externally visible when open were painted the exterior base color. If you do use Archer dry transfers, be aware they adhere better to a matt or satin surface. I used to use them on almost all of my armor models (I used to almost exclusively build armor), and had problems with the dry transfers adhering to gloss surfaces. You might want to check out Alliance Modelworks as they make some stencils for armor markings. Bill
  13. You've definitely got reason to be happy about how that seat came out.
  14. Tamiya has always been my favorite paint to airbrush. I have found that either Tamiya's lacquer thinner or Gunze's Mr. Color Leveling Thinner (now my favorite) work better than the X20 thinner. I use at least 50% thinner, and keep my pressure between 10-15 psi. Unlike Brian (Out2Gtcha), I find Tamiya to be the WORST paint for hand-brushing. With airbrushing, you will find that there is a learning curve with each different brand of paint you use. It takes plenty of trial and error to find that sweet spot of the right pressure, thinner/paint ratio and the right thinner. I remember having similar problems years ago when I was using Pollyscale paints a lot. I loved their colors, but I had nothing but problems with paint drying at the tip and the airbrush sputtering until I started using the Pollyscale thinner. Once I found the right combination, everything worked great.
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