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wmoran

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About wmoran

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    LSP Junkie
  • Birthday 05/19/1965

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    Male
  • Location
    Monroe, Louisiana, USA

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  1. I have found an ultrasonic cleaner ($50 from Harbor Freight) to greatly help with cleaning, particularly if I go too long between thorough cleaning sessions. I first put the removable parts (primarily the nozzle parts) in a small jar filled with hardware store lacquer thinner. I place that jar in the ultrasonic cleaner with enough water + degreaser (lately I've just been using Mr. Clean) in the cleaner to come up to just below the rim of the jar. I place the body of the airbrush and parts too large to fit into the small bottle into the water in the cleaner. I run it through a 4-6 minute cycle. I then remove the small parts from the jar of lacquer thinner and put them directly in the ultrasonic cleaner. After a 3-4 minute cycle, there will be a noticeable cloud of paint residue around the small parts. I purposely bought my ultrasonic cleaner 15+ years ago for cleaning my airbrush. It has proven useful for many other purposes, one of which is helping to get paint jar lids to come unstuck. Place the paint jar upside down in the cleaner with enough water to submerge the complete cap of the paint jar. Run for 4-6 minutes, and the cap should come right off.
  2. The only problem I have had with using these decals is with the circular/semi-circular decals designed to simulate the switch settings for circular switches. To get the decals to lay down when placing them over molded-in nobs/switches, I have to punch out the clear film in the center of the decal. Doing this is very difficult with the white decals because they are almost impossible to see. It would be nice if Anyz would print their white decals on a darker backing sheet. I don't really see that omitting the decal film from the center of these decals is much of a possibility, and I don't mind using a punch and die set, but would like to be able to see the decal better. I think the effect you get is terrific with the many possibilities with the shapes provided.
  3. I'm a little late to this topic, but if Dragon does get back into making 1/32 aircraft, someone could make a fortune drawing-up aftermarket instruction sheets that actually help to correctly assemble the kit. Poor (being generous here) instructions are also Dragon's main point of failure in their armor kits.
  4. I was going through some of my stash of old accessories and found several Cutting Edge Black Magic masking sets. Having read the fairly recent posts about shrinkage of vinyl masks (primarily those made of Oramask 810), I looked the Black Magic masks over to see if they had shrinkage. There was zero shrinkage on the sets I looked at. I have not tested any of them to see if they have good adhesion, but there was zero shrinkage. That lack of shrinkage is pretty remarkable considering they were stored for several years in a non-climate controlled storage unit in Wyoming, and then for a couple of years in my garage in Louisiana, so they have been through a broad temperature range. They have always been in the original plastic bags, so no exposure to high or low humidity, just temperature extremes. Does anyone know what material Cutting Edge used for these masks? Also, if anyone has had experience using the masks, let us know how they performed. I have numerous sets, but have never used one of them.
  5. I've used Smooth-On products before and liked them. There main website is https://www.smooth-on.com. They have numerous tutorial videos on there, and they have starter sets. This page gives their European distributors: likhttps://www.smooth-on.com/distributor-regions/europe/
  6. Are you asking about scribing or riveting tools? The term diameter for a scribing tool is throwing me. Any way, you can't go wrong with any of Radu Brinzan's tools (radubstore.com), and umm-usa.com has a really good selection of tools for reasonable prices. From UMM, I have the following two scribing tools: http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_105&products_id=5580 and http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_105&products_id=8751. They seem to cover my needs, but I try to minimize my scribing because I screw it up nearly every time. I'm sure you'll get input from members with much more experience with other makes of scribing tools, but those two vendors are a good place to start. Bill
  7. Everything looks fantastic: the helicopter, figures, base, accessories etc. Terrific job on this massive project. Bill
  8. Brett, Your problem is that your work bench is entirely too clean. If it was like my work bench, you wouldn't have been able to find any clamps, and hence, no alignment problem. Bill
  9. Looking good Ernest. On the cockpit, make sure those curved sections of pipe are glued securely. On the two D.VIIs I worked on (and moved to SOD), those pieces would always pop loose when gluing the fuselage halves together even though I did my utmost to ensure there was no paint to interfere with the fit of the cockpit. When applying the Aviattic lozenge decals, a hairdryer seems to help much more than decal solvents and setting solutions. Bill PS: If you have any problems with the kit decals, let me know. I have extras I can send you.
  10. Thanks to all for your help. I will be adding them to my list of books for sale if anyone is interested in either of them. Bill
  11. Rick, I'm pounding my head on the wall right now because my feeble mind didn't think of that. Thanks, Bill
  12. I found these two books when I was going through some of my boxes of books. They are entirely in Japanese, and I don't remember much about them since I bought them quite a few years back. If you recognize the books, please let me know the publisher/series/etc. I am going to sell them and need the info for here or eBay. Thanks for any help you can give. Book 1: Book 2:
  13. Brian, You would get even more coverage from a bottle and much less mess if you varied the order of your steps a little. Bill
  14. Thierry, Take a look at this site. https://www.rockwestcomposites.com/rods-shapes They have carbon fiber rods down to about .28mm (if my math is correct!). Bill
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