Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About wmoran

  • Rank
    LSP Junkie
  • Birthday 05/19/1965

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Monroe, Louisiana, USA

Recent Profile Visitors

137 profile views
  1. It's probably the same as models, although there might be different formulations of polystyrene. Plain styrene is most commonly seen as styrofoam. All 'styrene' models are actually made of polystyrene. Bill
  2. It's the housing for a direction finding antenna. I forget the name of the system, but you will find similar setups on Ju 88s. I'm sure someone here can give you an in-depth description of the system. Bill
  3. wmoran

    F-100D 1/32 NMF build

    Outstanding job on the NMF finish. Bill
  4. wmoran

    Bf 109G2/R2 Trop of 2.(H)/14, Tunisia

    Kev, Brian, Dennis & Mark - thanks for the comments. Joachim - I was using the fuel line from a Hasegawa F-4 as my pattern. The led wire is not fully glued down yet, so I can move it around when I dry-fit the cockpit into the fuselage. I was going to try to heat stretch some clear sprue to put in that center section. If it doesn't work then I will just try to make that center section look clear with some silver and smoke paint. My references are somewhat limited as I was primarily an armor builder in the past and just did aircraft OOB as a break from a long armor build. Bill
  5. I was going through BloorWestSiR's (Carl) Bf 110C-7 build in the group build forum, and noted a comment from Scale32 that he didn't know Eduard had individual instruments. Their early Bf 110 PE sets for the DML kits have individual instruments. Eduard also has a separate set of Luftwaffe instruments (item #32865). Since I haven't seen anyone on this forum use them, I thought I would give a brief review of them. Here is a picture from Eduard's site of the fret: The instruments can look very good, but you have to be very careful as the paint comes off them fairly easily. I have found they look best if you cut the bezel and instrument face apart rather than just folding the bezel over. It is when trimming any burrs off the parts that the paint has a tendency to chip. I have used both Gator Grip glue and Future to glue them, and I think I prefer Future. CA just doesn't give me enough working time to get them straight. Also, some movement of already placed instruments might be required due to lack of space on the kit IP. I find the Eduard instruments are a little smaller than Airscale's PE bezels, which can give you an option if the Airscale bezels won't all fit on your specific IP. The main con of these instruments I have found is that Eduard do not indicate what the individual instruments are. I have to use my really high powered lens in my optic visor to match some of the instruments to my reference photos. Bill I noticed that the instruments with blue, yellow, etc. colors show up in Eduard's image on the same side as the instrument face. In actuality, they are on the reverse side.
  6. wmoran

    Is Jerry Rutmann still here?

    You can normally find him on the missing-lynx.com forums these days.
  7. Since I got back into the hobby last year, I can't seem to concentrate on just one build. In addition to the Bf 110D-3 I'm working on for the group build, I just started this Trumpeter kit. I had never used a clear instrument panel before, so I was looking forward to seeing how this one turned out. Alas, it was not to be. I had the glass parts of the instruments masked with Vallejo masking fluid, and while I was prepping some other parts for priming, the IP vanished. I think it stuck to my arm or shirt and got carried to some other part of the house. I will probably find my 'problem' cat playing with it one day. Luckily, I had an Eduard Bf 109G-6 IP available. It has an extra panel (external armament controls?) below the main IP, but I figure a photo-recce 109 would have a similar panel for controlling the camera(s). Here is a pic with the Micro Kristal Clear not yet dry (and a couple of unknown things stuck to the IP): The kit didn't include the fuel flow inspection line on the starboard sidewall, so I made an attempt at adding one. Hopefully it will look the part after painting. That's it for now. Bill
  8. wmoran

    Bf 110D-3 III./ZG26 North Africa/Sicily

    Here are some photos to show that I have been getting a little accomplished. I've also managed to lose several parts on this kit. First was the throttle console which flew off into oblivion when I was trying to bend the Eduard PE part to match its contours. I am working on my second scratch-built replacement. On this one, I think I will just use a paint marker to mark the grooves for the throttles, etc. Scribing the grooves didn't work very well the first time. I still have the Eduard PE pieces, but other than the levers, I am going to forego the PE for the throttle and use some Airscale placard decals and scratch-built details. The other part I lost was one of the MG17s. I have no idea what happened to it, but Shawn M (and Max, aka Mozart) offered to send me a replacement that he wasn't using. Sorry for the lousy photos. I have been having to use my phone to take the pictures because my good camera is on the fritz. My lighting is a little bad because one of my light stands is out of commission. Thankfully, I do not have a dead cat, as his chewing is what put the light stand out of commission. The seat harnesses are HGW, some from a set for a 2-seat Ar 234, and some from spares from other builds. I've also got the instrument panel done, but the photo is so out-of-focus that I'm not going to post it. Hope to have more to show soon. Bill
  9. wmoran

    Bf 110D-3 w/DB 601N engine fuel type

    Thanks Shawn, but I should be able to come up with something. I need to experiment more with my Silhouette for masks and with printing decals. BTW: I was working on another kit last night, and another part just disappeared. I had the clear IP from a Trumpeter Bf 109G-2/trop masked and ready for paint. After a break, I went to put it on the masking tape I had the other parts secured to, and I could not find it anywhere. It probably stuck to my arm (it had done that earlier in the evening, but I noticed), and ended up in another room. Luckily, I had an Eduard Bf 109G-6 IP that I am going to use. It has an extra panel at the bottom (armament control I believe), but since I am going to build the G-2 as a photo-recce version, I assume it would have a similar panel for camera control. I REALLY need to work on cleaning up and organizing my work area.
  10. I would like to build this kit as an in-flight model, but I plan on painting it as a SG2 aircraft from Hungary winter 44/45. That means I need to cut the lower landing gear covers off. The Revell kit includes the option for retracted landing gear. I can use the lower part of the regular landing gear struts, but I don't know if the fact that main wheel is not full thickness will be too visible without the lower covers. Has anyone tried building this kit gear-up with lower covers removed? Thanks, Bill
  11. My Bf 110 references are somewhat limited, and I have been unable to find confirmation as to whether or not DB 601N engined aircraft required 100 octane fuel. I think I have enough spare Bf 109 sheets that I can come up with the decals. Otherwise, I will print the yellow C3 triangles on clear decal stock and use my Silhouette to cut out triangles either from stencil material for painting or from white decal stock. I don't think the Silhouette will cut something as small as the 'C3', so painting masks are probably out for that part of the marking. I have the HAD decal sheet for two III/ZG26 aircraft, and both have 'N' marked on the nacelles. This is such a nice kit, but I can't believe that DML didn't include any stencils on the decal sheet. Thanks, Bill
  12. This is my first try at posting a link to a photo (hosted on Imgur.com). Hope it works. I got a little early start on the GB and did some work on the cockpit parts this weekend. I will post photos of that work soon. I am having to use my phone to take the pics because my good camera is on the fritz.
  13. Could one of you post a link to that FB page? Thanks, Bill