nmayhew

Good news on the RLM83 - it's nice to see that this 'discovery' is now being put out into the mainstream, and not just tucked away in specialist research forums (I frequent both, and both add value in different ways) Strange call re RLM81 The realisation that RLM83 was a blue goes (kind of) hand in hand with the acknowledgement that RLM81 had green-ish and brown-ish iterations But either way, I think Kotare bringing this sort of thing into the wider realm can only be a good thing - to say nothing of their awesome kits! As to Humbrol, they were very much the imposter being included in the first place - and I say this as someone brought up (probably like Mark and many on here) on Humbrol and Airfix enamels Times have moved on, and enamels have been superseded. I know it sounds harsh (sorry @dennismcc) but the (very!) few that use them can work out the colours themselves - it's a commercial world and Humbrol just don't belong on an instruction sheet where space is very limited Thanks for keeping us in the loop @Mark Robson Can't wait for the 109 and the kits that follow

Awesome!

A video where they show the guy just throwing the stuff in the bin?

what paint are you using? i spray with MRP lacquers because they dry near instantly and i can mask a roundel's various segments in a rapid succession MRP's one downer is probably lack of opacity compared to say SMS, so multiple light passes are the way to go depending on project, i will often re-prime *over* the underlying camo in black if i want black basing effects; again multiple passes, and spray *from the outside of the mask to the inside* to help avoid paint build up (I hope that bit makes sense?) finally, to avoid outlines of colour where you don't want them / or avoid thin demarcation lines where they shouldn't be any... eg 4 colour roundel (and this is just one way to do it of course) - entire mask and surround onto kit to correctly locate - remove outer two rings ie the yellow and blue - spray yellow, but on purpose don't worry about going into the blue section a bit - yellow ring back on; remove white ring - spray blue, and don't worry about going over a bit into the white section - blue ring back on; remove red dot - spray white (you get the deal now...?) - white ring on, spray final red sound a lot of faffing but the key is quick drying paint - the above can all be done in one session with just a minute or so between colours - time enough to clean the airbrush, get the next paint etc I stress this is *not the only way* but a way which may help those struggling with some of the issues mentioned earlier Cheers Nick

Interesting I used to be in ‘the trade’ - working with my late Father who was a dealer for 40+ years we dealt primarily in Ancient Greek & Roman, but also in ‘modern English’ ie milled rather than hammered but still might be 100+ years old for those familiar with the Brit tv series, I often described the trade as ‘Lovejoy with coins Some dealings with dodgy characters, lots of forgeries to avoid, quite a bit of travel, but also sometimes the ‘thrill of the deal’ and if one is interested in history, a very engaging subject matter. the numismatic market still thrives in Germany, but here it is unrecognisable from the one that I grew up with often going to work for the day (Saturday) with my Father up in London Originally there were lots of one man band dealers but they mostly got squeezed out as things went online and became dominated by the large auction houses (not Sotheby’s etc, but rather those that specialise in numismatics) what I find staggering is that the artistry and craftsmanship of Ancient Greek coinage remains unsurpassed to this day - indeed nothing has ever got close. the only parallel I could draw would be like the model industry starting with a Tamiya 1/32 Corsair and then ending up with a 1970s Airfix - it was sort of evolution in reverse. anyway, enough rambling - I’m actually watching an old episode of Lovejoy on tv! Nick

with cockpit closed, the only thing would be exhausts with cockpit open, HGW belts would be the one item i would always add the rest is just fluff PS i have seen Dave Johnson (member here) do a good YouTube build where he used kit tyres and completely eliminates the seam between the two halves

This. 100% this. The whole Infinity project was a disaster in every respect as far as I can tell, which is a great shame because there were glimpses of excellence, which all too quickly became lost in terrible fit, and commercial decisions to match. All very sad, especially as all one is left with is bs 1/35. Anyway, unless someone has ultra-niche interests, there are still excellent kits in most 1/32 WWII areas to keep you going until you die! Just don't take too long before you realise it!

I reckon you’ve nailed it!!

Why? Because there is (near) zero interest and they won’t sell.

so just because i find it disappointing that apparently shows my "willingness to destroy something I don't agree with"? stop talking nonsense man

extremely disappointed that it's 1/35

agreed - it's likely there might be 3+ my refs are merely all the JG54 colour photos - or B&W ones where they are sharp enough to show demarcation - of both 190s and 109s i have done a JG54 109 G-2 where there were 2 great colour pics, but i still went round in circles i think i would go for a really dark green, a much lighter olive / 'forest' type green, and then something like RLM02 or one of the German Army 'Tropen' colours RAL8000 (from Tropen 1) or RAL8020 (from T2) alternatively, one could take the view that whilst on the fuselage they covered all the original camo up with 2 greens, on the wings they left some of the old 74 / 75, and that's what is 'poking through' in places? I think either is credible

The pic seems to show 3 colours on topside of wings btw, so I wouldn’t follow that profile too closely

yup i'm interested in how these will find their way out into the wider modelling community since they come from Russia...?

sorry to say I think that is definitely a you thing rather than a MRP thing