AlexM

According to this shop, the kit is expected for mid/end April, and can be preordered for 115,50 €. Seems to be a tempting price for such a large model https://www.modellbau-koenig.de/Aircrafts/Aircraft-Models-1-24-1-32/Allied-WW2/U-S-Army-Air-Force-U-S-Navy-U-S-Marine-Corps/A-26B-Invader Alex

After a long search, I finally got this from an italian seller via Ebay. Price was not cheap, but just about acceptable. While most three-engined planes don't look too sexy in my eyes, I find this one pretty hot Alex

Amazing work, and all this in just one week Alex

Just printed the corrugated floor for the rear gunner station. And I found this document which contains some information about the rear Bell M-6 turret. http://hangarthirteen.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/Pages_from_Army-Navy_Index_of_Aeronautical_Equipment_-_Volume_5_-_Armament_Section_2.1_Gunnery.pdf The end fuselage section, which is printed with resin, is glued on a thin styrene sheet with superglue. So, it can later be attached to the rest of the fuselage with normal model cement without the risk of fogging on any clear parts. Alex

Cool project. Old-school vacuform meets 3d-printing

Thanks Lothar and Steve I'm afraid I couldn't stand the calls for pitchforks, tar and feather due to the countless flaws and inaccuracies It's all based on drawings from the warpaint book, photos and good (or bad) guessing. But apparently, there is a 1/32 Marauder kit in the work from Resin2Detail, and the (CAD)pictures I saw so far look pretty promising.

Hi Jason, so true, those Soviet twins in "our" scale would be great, as well as an Il-4. Thanks a lot! Christmas holiday means modeling time Sooner or later, the day will come when the fuselage halves get glued together. Before that, most interiors have to be done. One big challenge is the Martin 250 CE turret. I collected all photos I found, as well some handbooks and manuals. But I couldn't find one single scale drawing. The circumstance, that there were apparently variours versions of the turret with detail differneces doesn't make things easier. So, the end-result will contain some artistic licence and simplification. That's the current status of the 3d-model: I also took a closer look on the rear gunner station and realized that the end opening is way to narrow, so the rear section had to be redone. To make it fit to the rest of the fuselage, some comprises were still necassary. It's far from perfect, but hopefully better than the old part: The silver one is the old part Cheers Alex

Despite its apparent issues (at least from what we have seen from the model until now), it would surprise me greatly if I don't get this one

I would buy a 1/32 Seiran kit in a minute. Two years ago I started a 3d model using a 1/33 card model, the side-view picture and the drawing from wikipedia. The side profile from all three "sources" differ slightly. Here is a quick print with hardly any details Maybe once I finish my neverending ongoing builds, I'll focus again on the Seiran (which should only last about 100 years ) Cheers and happy christmas Alex

I have an Anycubic Photon, and I really like it. But I wouldnt recommend it as starter printer, especially not for a 10 year old child. This printer uses liquid resin, which requires lots of cleaning after printing, and which can tourn into a real mess if not handeled carfully. And the printing space is limited with 115 mm x 65 mm x 155 mm. Therefore I would recommend a "normal" FDM printer, that uses printing material wound on spools (filament). But I don't know which FDM printer can be recommended in the lower price section. Cheers Alex

Hi Jason, apparently, there is an A-20 G coming from HGW. Look here: https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/78116-hgw-a-20g-havoc-in-plastic/ Cheers Alex

Hi there, not much new to report. I just put together the major parts to get some motivation to continue this project. Yesterday, I received this huge book, with more than 600 pages full of information It contains very usefull photos and information, especially concerning the wheel wells, and the rear guns. It also contains great information about camouflage and markings. There is a diagram in the book showing the position and size of markings and invasion sripes. The national insignias are called out "Type 4 (44in / 40in)" for the wings, and "Type 4 (33in / 30in)" for the fuselage. The evolutin from type 1 to type 4 markings is described in the book. But does anyone know exactly what these sizes refer to? I suppose it refers to the circle of the markings In the meantime, i bought a digital copy of a manual for the Martin 250CE turret on Ebay , which should arrive the next days. I hope it contains some information about the size of the turret. I have the feeling that the round opening on the fuselage of the model is a bit too small, but before I enlage it, I need exact numbers. The forthcoming A-20 G should include this turret, but if possible, I'll try to make my own. Cheers Alex

Great photos! Everytime I watch pictures of a Wellington it's mindblowing. How on earth was it even possible do design such a complex construction

Interesting - if they add a Betty carrier aircraft as little bonus

Hi Mike, I suppose when printing such pars with a resin printer, somewhat satisfying surface details could be achieved (when you are able to createt those details on the 3d-model - which proves to be challenging for me ). I once printed the forward fuselage section with my resin printer (Anycubic Photon). Once printed, such resin parts need further curing with UV-light. Thereby, I experienced much warping of the part what made the part more or less unusable. So in this regard there is still much to learn for me to achieve good results. Then, there is the challenge to glue large resin parts to the styrene fuselage of the kit... Therefore, I printed all parts (with the exeption of the very forward frame where the clear nose is attached) with a FDM printer using a printing filament called HIPS what stands for High Impact Polystyrene. Such parts can be glued with ordinary modeling cement to the styrene kit parts. Theoretically, you could print such parts with surface details, but those details propably wouldn't tourn out sharp enought. And parts printed that way will always need further sanding, no matter how high the printing resolution (meaning fine layer hight) is, so the printed panel lines are likely to disappear in this process. Meanwhile, I glued the printed fuselage sections to the kit. parts. Once attached, I glued an Evergreen styrene rod along the seam, and sanded it down. Then the seam got a thick layer of old (orange) paint to fill up small gapes, and was sanded as well. Now I have to scribe some panel lines (did I mention I hate scribing panel lines ). After that, I'll spry some primer so see how it all tourned out. Cheers Alex