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dodgem37 last won the day on February 5 2018

dodgem37 had the most liked content!

About dodgem37

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 06/24/1952

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    Silver Spring, Maryland USA

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  1. Soak in Windex or alcohol overnight to dissolve Future. Sincerely, Mark
  2. dodgem37

    Finished... 1/32 Hasegawa Focke Wulf Fw-190A-9

    Great show. Love that! Sincerely, Mark
  3. dodgem37

    1/32 Trumpeter Me 262A-1a "Yellow 3"

    Nice light-over-dark paint coverage. Nice light-dark contrast on the tires. Sincerely, Mark
  4. dodgem37

    1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"

    Peter, Your message center is not accepting personal messages. Sincerely, Mark
  5. Great problem-solving and execution, Chuck. Sincerely, Mark
  6. dodgem37

    CAC Boomerang A46-217 “Hep Cat”

    What an educational build. Sincerely, Mark
  7. dodgem37

    1/32 Trumpeter Me 262A-1a "Yellow 3"

    Great show. Sincerely, Mark
  8. dodgem37

    1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"

    I love this scale. Sincerely, Mark
  9. dodgem37

    "White 22" 1./KG(J)6 Erla 109G-10

    Good show. Tape has ragged edges. Extra nice detail. Sincerely, Mark
  10. dodgem37

    Vacuum Chamber or Pressure pot?

    'I was aware that the best way forward was vacuum degassing of the mould material and then pouring the mould and setting it under pressure.' What would be the purpose of pressurizing the mold? 'At present I have spent about $350 AUS to set myself up casting' I bought a 2-1/2 gallon pressure pot ($99 USD), a vacuum gauge ($20), premium air hoses that won't collapse under vacuum ($5, maybe $10), quick disconnect brass fittings ($12?), and a 3 CFM 2 stage vacuum pump ($160). It was all off of the shelf from Harbor Freight. There must to be something like that in Melbourne. Harbor Freight is an inexpensive tool store. There is debate that the home hobbyist needs both vacuum chamber and a pressure pot. I think that the home hobbyist doesn't need both. Depending on the part, I either vac the resin before or after I pour it into a mold. Small parts I vac before I pour. Vac'ing causes anything liquid you put in a chamber to heat up. Period. Vac'ing out air creates friction which creates heat. Heated resin sets faster. Heated RTV silicon sets faster. With small parts there is time enough to fill the part cavity. For larger parts, not so much. For larger parts I vac after I pour. I make sure the mold has a casting block so I have a resin reservoir. I vacuum out trapped air, then when I release the vacuum the rise in air pressure forces the resin that is in the reservoir into the mold which fills the void left by the air. This saves me from having to purchase a second chamber. 'With a pressure pot, air bubbles go out of resin.' Thierry, don't you mean under pressure bubbles are compressed in resin? I have the T-shirt as well. I molded and cast parts for years before it came time to upgrade. I went through the same thing you are going through before I bit the upgrade to chamber bullet. Which will it be? Hobbyist Grade vs Professional Grade? My head swirled. I don't want to waste good money. Throw good money after bad correcting a mistake. I chose Hobbyist Grade and solved problems with my brain instead of my wallet. It's only a hobby. I don't even need it. It's just something I want. Anyway. This is just my 2 cents. Don't break the bank. Best of luck. Sincerely, Mark
  11. Very sharp work. Great show, Chuck. Glad you're here. Sincerely, Mark
  12. dodgem37

    1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"

    Check you out. You are bad! Great show, Peter. Sincerely, Mark
  13. dodgem37

    Opti-visor diopter

    For me, it's a matter of how close do I want to get down onto my desk and how flexible my back is to get down onto my desk. There are things I pick up and bring to my eyes to sand or scrape, but most of the time I am bending over my desk to scratch-build. Below is a copy from Micro-Mark of the focal length for the magnifications. Item # Magnifies Working Distance #52387 1-1/2 times 20 inches #52388 1-3/4 times 14 inches #52389 2 times 10 inches Sincerely, Mark
  14. dodgem37

    Vacuum Chamber or Pressure pot?

    A pressure pot will have tie-downs so you can tie down the top and create an over pressurization and a vacuum. The roof of a vacuum chamber, at least the ones I've seen, doesn't have tie downs and as such is good for one purpose. So, if you want to over-pressurize and vacuum, get a pressure pot. You should already have a compressor, so all you need is a vacuum pump. Know the volume of your pot and buy a pump that can remove that air as soon as possible. I'm not saying buy a room-sized vacuum pump, but the bigger the pump, the faster it will pull air, and the longer it will last. If the pump is too small it will take too long to draw and it will burn out sooner. Keep it's oil level up. I mixed and matched stuff from a place called Harbor Freight, here in the States. It works for me, but I wish it had a window. Hope this helps. Good luck. Sincerely, Mark
  15. dodgem37

    P-47 D25-D28 Engines

    From Wikipedia: R-2800-21 2,000 hp (1,491 kW) at 2,700 rpm at 2,500 ft (762 m); 2,000 hp (1,491 kW) at 2,700 rpm at 25,000 ft (7,620 m). First production variant fed by a General Electric C-1 turbosupercharger.[15][nb 4] Designed for use in the Republic P-47B, C, D, G and XP-47F and K. Production = 5,720 (P&W 1,049; Ford 4,671.) Sincerely, Mark