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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/13/2020 in all areas

  1. The project has been completed, so it's time for the gallery. The model was made of prototype moldings. Thanks to the cooperation with Yahu and Master, I was able to equip the model with add-ons that these companies will offer to valorise this aircraft (dashboards, rifles, Venturi tube). I made some elements myself: cables, propeller blades, wing container for ammunition and elements of the inside of the wing). I painted the model with Bilmodel Makers and Hataka paints. The markings were made using masks of our own production (thanks Marco). Photos of the first test
    11 points
  2. ericg

    USAF F-100D FINISHED!

    Thanks for the comments guys. Two things that I am not overly keen on doing with models are seat belts and brake lines. For some reason I find this stage of the build to be a bit of a pain! Needless to say, they both need to be done. First up, the brake lines on the undercarriage. The kit has some reasonably nice lines already there but they are moulded integrally with the leg and are a little to 2D for my liking. I sanded them off. I used .4mm lead wire and .4mm copper wire to depict the two lines that run up each leg. I used thin aluminium foil to replicat
    11 points
  3. Thanks for the support, much appreciated!! Well the nice thing about a model with six million parts is that if you bugger up one part there's enough separate sub assemblies that are kits in themselves to keep a modeller (and me) moving along. I figured I could take a bit of a break from fixing my accident and move along to this... I painted the "plywood" walkways with Vallejo dark flesh and drybrushed/ wet washed with Vallejo wood for grain, then gloss clear, then, chipping medium and Tamiya rubber black then weathered it. Thanks for looking
    11 points
  4. Yesterday the Wingnut Wings Fans 10 year Anniversary group build was decided... I'm very thankful to Wingnut Wings for picking my 'Aeromarine' entry, there were so many wonderful builds participating. Richard Alexander said: "Everyone really loved looking through the entries and it was very (very) difficult to choose our top three. Not everyone agreed with other peoples choices but I think in the end we all agreed that these are very worthy entries. The top 5 models were very close indeed with the exception of the amazing Aeromarine conversion
    10 points
  5. A quick snap in the wee hours of the mornin’.
    10 points
  6. Mostly done with the ceiling. There are a bunch of cables and comm cords to run still, but I’ll have to wait on those- moving forward to the cockpit overhead panel next- cheers Pete
    10 points
  7. A6M7 Model 62, 302 Kokutai Model Hasegawa 1/32 HGW rivets, wet transfers, seat belts & mask Eduard wheels All colour MRP test set IJN Marking mask home made
    9 points
  8. Time to resurrect this build from the SoD - inspired by Wackyracer's fabulous PR XI build. My SLA printed F.24 cameras finally arrived. Well, I had to switch to a professional 3D printing service which was quite expensive but defintely worth the money! Have a look mates: Keep in mind that those cameras aren't bigger than 1cm! I have to look into my cockpit for some modifications regarding the camera control and the bigger issue: the mounting frame for the camera. Cheers Joachim
    8 points
  9. Hi Rob (and others this may pertain to!), My sincere apologies for not replying. In your case Rob, I really thought I did (and wondered why you didn't e-mail requesting an invoice). To answer your question, yes the A-7 intake corrections are available, as are all other items on my website. Any items not available have either been removed from the website or are listed as currently not available. The past few months have been my busiest in my near 15 years of running Zactomodels. As Seiran mentioned, I'm a one-man-band and sometimes in the chaos things get missed. Yes, sometimes
    8 points
  10. Mike, Brian, thanks for the support! Mike, the stand is from JHModels; they have their own site - jhmodels.eu - but I think I sourced mine via modellingtools.co.uk It's a biplane stand (with only two of the four supplied arms fitted) and they do two sizes; this is the larger one for 1/32 and up, the other is for 1/48 or 1/72. It comes as a laser cut wooden kit that you have to assemble. Not overly robust but works nicely. --- Final post! I was going to post yesterday but in between firing ImageShack up and uploading the pics I took of
    7 points
  11. I am hugely motivated to work on my models since quite some time, but few things are going to plan at the moment - the reappearing cracks on the Skywarrior drive me nuts and the air intakes of my resurrected , heavily modified Revell Tomcat are fighting me with all their force. This and the arrival of the aluminium sheet I ordered some time ago led to the decision to give skinning the MH-53E a go. I have probably chosen a pretty difficult area to start with, but it helps to get a feeling how to cut and sand the resulting panels. The biggest p
    7 points
  12. Got the last bits onto the Aires cockpit tub including the HGW harnesses. The sidewalls are glued into place. Once that is done, the cockpit details get swallowed up into what is probably one of the most claustrophobic cockpits of any WW2 fighter plane.
    6 points
  13. Replacement parts from MDC arrived safely and nstalled.. Gun barrels are from Master-Models #32013 I have used Profimodeller pitot tube before finishing this large bird. More pictures will be posted in RFI section later. PS: By the way I am looking for "desperately" another Corrected tail and rudder set for my Ju-88A5 project . This set was out of production long time ago.
    6 points
  14. Feb 13/20 A small update, but I think an important one. Putting together the front cowl, I recall that Max (Mozart) was complaining about it in his build and now I know why. The cowl on the real deal comes in 3 roughly equal parts that are connected together with an obvious band of fasteners, with one on the top and the other two equidistant away, sort of like the Mercedes Benz symbol. Instead of utilizing these obvious joins, Kitty Hawk used none of them and made the cowl out of 4 parts, where all joins should be filled. Dumb. Even if they needed to make the cowl out of 4 par
    5 points
  15. Thanks for the tip Neo - I'll try to remember that when I get to it So, I have managed to get most of the starboard sidewalls and roof parts detailing done with only 3 left to go. Then it'll be time to blend in the walls to the surface and add some other stuff around - then the last part of the top side surface detailing will be over. I'm still deciding if I will paint first then add the fiber or vice versa. I'm leaning toward paint first because I just think it'd be too hard to be able to trim off fibers without damaging the paint work but shuddering at the thought of how much t
    5 points
  16. Here is my recently completed 1/32 Tamiya F4U-1a Corsair painted in one of Greg "Pappy" Boyington's purported mounts, BuNo. 17740. The Tamiya kit is an extraordinary state-of-the-art kit and doesn't need much to build up into an impressive model but I did take the liberty of adding a few aftermarket items: 1. Vector Resin Cowling 2. Barracuda Resin Wheels and Tires 3. HGW Fabric and Phototech Harness 4. Barracuda Cockpit Stencils 5. Montex Masks 6. True Details Resin Parachute 7. HGW Wet Transfer Stencils The complete build can be found here:
    4 points
  17. Whilst I was thinking about the forward end, I thought I'd fit these "nail clippings", the louvres for the vents I guess. They ping off all over the place if you're not very careful!
    4 points
  18. kaia

    Radioactive

    Hi friends Today next step ! I think i never finish this one Glue........piece of grass and more piece of grass. Glue some elements and bridge gaps with.......grass Marking slabs. I put more tree! Tomorow i paint the small guys.
    4 points
  19. I didn't even realise until you made me look closer Unfortunately i don't think removing this at this time would be a good idea. This windscreen is really a nightmare Painting started with specific areas coated in MRP silver metallic . Then 3 light coats of MIG scratching effects to allow chipping at further stages: As a sidenote, notice the effect of sanding the front of the windscreen when the canopy is closed. The underside were given a preshading in black and was then painted with MRP Medium Sea Grey (I didn't mask the wheel wells, I haven't decided if
    4 points
  20. mozart

    Another Goldfinch!!

    More progress on the engine, it needs to look like this: All 14 spark plugs are in place, very happy with the way they have fitted so now I'm thinking about the other "plumbing": So this this the end product: most of which won't be seen anyway! Flip it over to the front: I've pre-drilled the seating holes for the connecting rods on the engine block, just need to clean up the under surface of the valve covers then spend the afternoon delicately placing the connecting rods.
    4 points
  21. Well I am still at it, the yellow flash mask on the starboard side was removed and the yellow extended, it's a good job Mal sent extra masks for me, then it was time to apply the masks to the tail which I had already airbrushed white. The mask was cut down to size and the position for it was marked on the tail with Tamiya tape, transfer tape was applied to the mask to hold it all together and the mask applied, this was the tricky bit that I was not looking forward to but it worked. The transfer tape and the masks was removed to reveal this The Tamiya tape on this sid
    4 points
  22. In order to represent any kind of stained appearance, you really need to do it over a matt surface. This actually replicates the real world mechanics of the staining process, by allowing the wash to literally stain your matt/flat coat. Just be warned, though: it's an unforgiving exercise, and if you don't like the result, you'll probably have to paint over it! Here's an example from my Corsair build: Kev
    4 points
  23. only added a few more bits n bobs to the pit at club night Added the camera trigger to the stick
    4 points
  24. I was showing this to my wife just now....she says my gawd all you guys are nuts! I’d take that as a compliment!
    4 points
  25. Ok sorry for the delay as real life sometimes gets in the way. I’m still working on decals so here’s an in-progress look: Decals on the left side. The decals are thick and do not adhere well all of the time. Soaking decals (especially the walkway lines) in Solvaset isn’t helping much. I’m repeatedly poking holes in them to try and get more setting solution to pull them flat: Left forward fuselage. You can see the thickness of the decals if you look at the aircraft number: Left side of the rudder. Again, the “Armee De L’Air” decals are fighting every applic
    4 points
  26. the finish line is coming into sight! landing gear in primer tails finished: weapons pilons: flaps: removable armament: just a few more weekends!
    4 points
  27. Almost there.... cheers Pete
    4 points
  28. Domino got them two weeks ago. There are indeed two Greek schemes including one with a huge tail art.
    3 points
  29. mozart

    Another Goldfinch!!

    WiP with the conn rods: And all nicely in place: Fitting the ignition leads will quite a tight fit with the collector ring: I've ordered three different sized packs of plastic tubing for the ignition leads, hoping these will do the job.
    3 points
  30. I consider the kit completed. Here the link to the topic on the RFI forum. A bit wobbly while taking the picture, but this close-up of the office does show the effect of painting the inside of the glass on the inside and the outside on the outside (for a smaller scale I just painted the 'inside colour' on the outside of the cockpit before painting the camouflage). What I like about this approach is that you get an increased sence of glass being encased in a framework. Some thought about the kit - the basic building blocs are good in shape
    3 points
  31. some days are better than others
    3 points
  32. At least its nice to know that one of our most liked vendors is doing steady/good business! I think I speak for most Chris when I say your products are thoroughly fantastic, and top notch in about every way you can categorize "top".
    3 points
  33. Well that last one made me laugh! Yes the model is definitely repairable, all the breaks were on glue joints, thank goodness! One of the pilots left his seat and lost his head, I think that was probably the only really bad break. Some locating pins to align bulkheads were broken off in their receivers as well but setting the parts in place in the fuselage should align them as well. As suggested above, I'll leave it for a day or so but I'm anxious to repair the damage and get myself back on track. Not the first time for something like this with me, I once dropped a 1/32 Ju 88 as
    3 points
  34. Flaps are done! I used the kit flaps, thinned them down a bit and cut a bit off each end, then glued thin sheet styrene to both sides, overlapping the ends to the original length. Sanded the trailing edge almost to a knife edge, then primed, RLM 65 overall w/ wood (Testors 1735)on the top surface, and then some transparent woodgrain decals from HGW. This was my first attempt with the decals, and I found them VERY soft and hard to use without ripping them, even doing each piece individually so the grain doesn't align across the joints. I wound up having to spray a thin clearcoat over them while
    3 points
  35. Thank you Rod and Brett! Here are some more photos...
    3 points
  36. https://www.facebook.com/MicroProse-106173847468498/
    2 points
  37. Hi all, as part of the Eastern Front group build I have completed the Azur kit of a Cauldron C741 as delivered to the Finnish Air Force at the beginning of WWII. These aircraft were eventually not used as during airfield testing it transpired that the take-off and landing distances required by the plane wer much larger than the runways of the various Finnish airfield had available. Only 6 were delivered to the Finnish AF, and 4 crashed during the tests. This aircraft represents one of those that were not damaged, and the only surviving example of its kind with the Finnish markings.
    2 points
  38. 2 points
  39. Subodai

    For the old PC Gamers

    Quake is not a game to be played with a controller.
    2 points
  40. I have actually re-read his entire Spitfire and Tigercat thread and his tutorial... I may have missed it, but it seems both models were covered with flush rivets. Peter's input would be more than welcome of course! Seems my aluminium foil is a tad soft for some areas but I simply could not get hold of "proper" litho plate for a reasonable price.
    2 points
  41. Ben, Have you tried to engage Peter Castle (of Airscale)? I know I've seen him use the "reverse" riveting method for raised rivets on the aluminum printers sheets................he might know of a technique that would work to your satisfaction?
    2 points
  42. Hi, The TA-4J molds were not altered. This is also why you need to do some surgery to add the OA-4M parts. So no problem at that level. When I got another TA-4J, I also got a cheap Trumpeter A-4E as I'm not willing to rescribe again a Skyhawk. This was one of the most boring tasks I have ever done. So, I will just use the cockpit area of the Hasegawa kit as conversion parts for the Trumpy kit! Thierry
    2 points
  43. Another technique that is rarely used is the one relying on the darkened base color. If you look at pictures, you will see that stains and dirt sometimes color the surface but very often simply darken its color. Accordingly, you can make quite accurate stains with spots of hand painted diluted paint based on the base color darkened with a very little bit of black. This is what I recommend for the initial dirt coat. And then, if relevant, you can add other stains, splashes, drops and so on with a more or less transparent color that may be brown, orange, black, blue or any other valid color repr
    2 points
  44. Personally I would not. The RF-4 fuselage under the cockpit has a straighter, more boxlike profile due to the SLAR cheeks, so the Avionix horizontal line will produce the right profile. Tony
    2 points
  45. Nice surface. With all of that being said, your option is decals as rivets. You'll never gain the rivet dome by reverse imprinting any material. If you do templates, you can do a rivet decal sheet for simple surfaces and individual lines for complicated surfaces. I'm sure Archer Decal, or someone, would do them for you. Anything can be gotten for a price. Sheets would save you some time over individual lines of rivets. Just my take. Good luck. Sincerely, Mark
    2 points
  46. Out2gtcha

    Make the others jealous

    Got an email from Simon at Silver Wings and with a pre-order discount, and discounted shipping I couldn't resist her............ Depending when I can actually get back to the bench and finish my Ki-45, This lovely lass may be on the bench next...............just need some MRP WWII RAF yellow.
    2 points
  47. Yes, please take a short break and continue with this amazing project! I'm hooked on it!
    2 points
  48. 2 points
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