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Sepp

LSP_Members
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About Sepp

  • Rank
    LSP Junkie
  • Birthday 10/17/1961

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lloegr

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521 profile views
  1. I've been working away at this on and off since the last post, so time for an update... The gear legs have had some attention. I started by making the precharge safety rod thingies from 0.3mm tube threaded through 0.5mm tube fastenings, and opened up the holes in the uplocks Drilled out holes to receive the end of the brake pipe behind the hubs, joined the legs and gear doors, and after some paint and bmf for the oleo made the main part of the brake lines from 0.4mm tube through 0.6mm tube for the fitings, and tamiya tape for the straps. Added 0.4mm lead solder for the flexible lower part of the brake pipes, and after some paint we have this: To avoid endlessly knocking them off, I'll add the upper flexible hose just prior to fitting the legs to the wings. None of this is in any way accurate, but it's better than nothing or the kit's rubber parts! The prop and spinner have been painted, gloss coated and decaled. I used HGW's wet transfers - I love the system, but they have some issues with registration. The ones I used on my P-51 were perfect, but the second set of those I bought were hopelessly out of register. These are a little better, but still required some careful touching up with a small brush to hide the white backing. Some random white and blue ... bits, for want of a better word ... transferred from the backing sheet. Very odd. They were eventually edited out, too - I noticed after I took the pic that I'd missed one (right hand blade, next to the white decal). The hub can stay black as the spinner won't be removable. Some of the spinner decals broke up - if you use these wet transfers, wait patiently for the decals to separate from the backing. If you attempt to coax them, they'll break up or come away from the transfer film. It was no problem to touch up the affected ones using a small brush. Then it was on to proper, actual painting! Underside first - not shown, it's grey. What can one say about that? Then dark grey upper and roughly masked with film and Blutak sausages along the edges. My first go at attempting a feathered edge. And after the dark green: There's some overspay, some patches that are fuzzier than I'd like, and some harder edges than I'd like... still, a good learning experience and I think I'll be able to pull the errant bits back into line. I'm gong to let it cure for a while then look at restoring the bits that didn't work. Then I'll leave it a day or two before giving everything a gloss coat and starting on the yellow leading edges. It's slowly starting to come together! All for now! Sepp
  2. Superb from start to finish. Chapeau!
  3. That is a beautiful rendition of the proverbial streamlined brick. Very nice work!
  4. Me, I'd go with the Camel. What I might actually get to grips with, once my Spit is finished, is a UFO from the 1970s Gerry Anderson series.
  5. While I'll be sad to see you leave as Admin, I'm glad you'll be able to enjoy being on the shop floor - and a big +1 here for all the work you've put into this place, and the support you give to us new kids! BZ!
  6. A busy couple of weeks have put the Spit on the back burner, sadly, although I did find some time the other day to look at the canopy handle and emergency release ball. The etch handle looks very flat, so I added a grip using a tiny sliver of Tamiya tape: Next up, the release ball. first idea was to use the end of a Lego lever/aerial thing: but that was waaaay too big and I didn't fancy trying to either cut or sand it down to size. So - fine wire from the wrapping on a bottle of what was a very decent Rioja, bent into a hook to hold a tiny roughly ball-shaped blob of Mr. White Putty. No need to make a perfect sphere - I let the rough shape set then added a dab of neat gloss varnish and surface tension pulled it into a ball. Neat After that dried, I applied a thin coat of Tamiya clear red and: Voilà! For some reason it looks a bit balloon shaped in the pic, but it is actually a nice, round, ball. Next up - undercarriage legs and start getting paint on things. Sepp.
  7. Excellent project and superb execution! Love it.
  8. Welcome aboard! Take the plunge - I can vouch for the fact that you'll receive no end of support and encouragement from the other members here.
  9. Magnificent work and great inspiration!
  10. Well, I managed to cobble something tgether. It's agricultural and only its mother could love it but once it's under paint and hidden under the wing, at night and with the lights off it'll look OK U brackets are strip scavenged from the frame of a previously used etch set, bent round the end of a steel rule. The top rods are cut down spare wing hinge pins. I used 0.7mm brass tube for the, er, tube and the discs were punched from styrene sheet of various thicknesses. Other renditions I've seen all terminate the actuator on the cowl body itself but this would put the rod that connects them (either to the lever on the left of the pilot's seat, which my build has, or the later wiggly amp controller) outside the wing - so mine extend just shy of 2mm above the body and so terminate just below the roof of the radiator housing, and inside the wing: I'll hold my hands up and admit that I didn't check before installing the actuators but fortunately there's just enough room for the part representing the radiator face to fit behind them. Phew! I'm still not happy with that brace on the left... it may have to go although it does look OK in the flesh. Anyhoo, my replacement canopy masks have arrived so I guess that's this afternoon sorted, while I ponder the gun heater ducts. Why do we do this to ourselves? More later, Sepp
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