chrish

What he said but not England

P-163; now I know where the Millennium falcon came from

fricken genius! I love it

Shades of my youth watching Wiley Coyote and road runner

And it goes 30 pages….

I work on these things almost every day, if you're familiar with AMC products you'll know what I mean when I say they're fatherless pieces of...poorly made products. I've seen these tugs with Ford, Chrysler and, Wisconsin engines, they almost all use Chrysler (from the 80's) A-413 transaxles Chevy 3/4 ton truck front and rear axles and brakes, some Dana 40 series front and 60 series rear axles. Eagle calls them all wheel drive, but with an open diff being used as a transfer case, an open front diff. and an open rear diff. if it's anywhere near a bit of ice it'll sit and spin any one wheel and refuse to move. Wired by a poorly trained chimpanzee and the reliability of a snowball in hell. F4models has pretty much nailed it: Out of the box, built and painted in less time than it takes to type this To go with my DHC-8 400 Thanks for looking

that aint gonna buff out

thank you very much

Gorgeous

working on it

Thanks I logged in incognito using my email and password, checks out and works….hopefully I’m good to go. No idea how I remembered my freaking password, but the sun shines on a dogs as once in a while I guess

You are correct, “ultra bright chrome” bare metal foil

Got Captain Morgan here all ready to get at it, while munching crackers and watching the original Star Wars set thanks mates!

Revell 1/25 oob Tamiya lacquer and acrylic. I wired the engine and added a couple of details. Easy as falling off a log The model fit's great (other than the hood) with a lot of build options...This example would be something mechanics of my era would frown on, it's got the original 327 engine with a 2 speed auto and low voltage ignition and 4bbl carb but the body and interior are mint. I always subscribed to the policy of build the drive train fist then finish the interior and body. Oh well, it's just a plastic model. As always, striving for mediority Thanks for looking

I use them almost exclusively to remove parts from the sprues, it does take a moment longer to remove the part but leaves little to no excess to sand/ trim from the part. I do not glue them along the fold anymore as it simply makes no difference to the life of the saw. what I do is cut the saw off much closer to the functional part of the blade (I use the engraved slash marks as a cut line and cut them off at or about the second line from the blade (on the engraved angle indicated) I've learned through bent blades to only pull the blade back, not push ahead as they will invariably only take a couple of hard pushes to get a nasty Z bend in the blade. If pulled they will go many many cuts with no issue. I've cut plastic, aluminum and, brass rod with mine....and still cuts this tomato (old Ginsu knife commercial) the blades in your post show the coarse blades there's another fret with fine blades that work awesome for removing clear components from their sprue with no stress marks or crazing, your mileage will vary of course but I wont be without them anymore.

happy birthday sir

on Scalemates? some very reasonable. Many are unreasonable. I stay away from anything priced too crazy, some folks think (maybe correctly) that Wingnuts kits are a gold mine. for my part everything I sold I tried to price fairly and they sold in a reasonable time, a couple of weeks for some a couple of months for one other but, that one other was a Hobbycraft Canda Otter that I had expectations of never being sold...if you can sell a Hobbycraft Canada otter you can sell anything

I’ve bought and sold on ”scalemates” Looooooots of sellers and huge base of modellers there

Lotta big words in there, I’m naught but a simple mechanic….If I understand the question, you’re wondering if the kit is in need of expensive upgrades or did I just buy them because they are available? the latter in this case. I do not build to achieve an exact replica of a given subject at an exact point in its lifetime (accuracy be damned) I build for the fun, the more challenging or, parts to add, to the build (in some/many cases) the more fun. With that, the resin component (in this case) was significantly less than the cost of the kit having directly ordered from Reskit in Ukraine although, the wait (again, in this case) due to Canada post work stoppage was significantly increased. In this case I believe the most costly add on would be the “Storm Shaddow” missiles and resin seats. Overall I’d be lying if I told you I remember what it all cost but I did order the kit from Poland as even shipped it was $100.00 less than from any North American supplier. It’s my observation the model doesn’t need these upgrades and they really don’t add much other than interest and to confirm your suspicion, cost to the build. I did build the Revell kit back when it was a new release and was disappointed with it. I do think that kit could benefit from detail upgrades if building to achieve accuracy I hope the question wasn’t rhetorical and that I’ve answered it

What he said, me too

With the Canada Post strike behind us (for now) the mail has finally delivered the last of the Reskit fun bits to glue together a Italeri Tornado ECR. The project is kind of pending right now to see if my mojo is current and updated with the latest operating system. ibidee ibidee thats all folks

Thank you very much sir

Thanks for the kind words mates! it does wonders for mojo

and another model for the shelf Thanks for looking