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jimbo last won the day on July 11 2012

jimbo had the most liked content!

About jimbo

  • Rank
    Hooked For Life
  • Birthday 06/06/1963

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  • Location
    High Bridge, NJ USA
  • Interests
    1/32 scale aircraft, of course!

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  1. Wow, that’s just super cool! Very imaginative and, imho, very plausible. Just to think of one of these screaming wide open over the open desert, whoooosh!!! Thrilling. Well done, friend, well done! Jimbo
  2. I have a Sherline. Let me know if I can be of assistance, if Pascal is not able to. Jimbo
  3. Any update in our favorite scale is always welcome. Thanks Kev! Jimbo
  4. A most compelling idea Tim. I hadn’t even thought of anything like it. Not to mention wasn't the original sheathed with lead? They could do it with copper now I’d think. Jimbo
  5. Thanks fellows; Well, Thomas, hmmmm indeed! So even after fabricating my props from spares I still never gave them much thought. An egregious error to be sure as there are clearly many varieties of aircraft propellers! Here is a photo from my main reference book (North American B-25 Mitchell The Ultimate Look) of what looks to be a proper B-25 propeller, shared with “fair use” for educational purposes in mind: The book I'm using states the following for propeller specifications for B-25s: C/D models equipped with Hamilton-Standard Model 23ESO-473 H/J models equipped with Hamilton Standard Model 1301F So it appears those are the HUB specifications, the BLADE specs are Model 6359A-18. Here is a photo of a 6359 blade from the “Aeroart” website: And finally a photo of the HK B-25 blades. You can see they are too wide. I’ve drawn with a black marker how much could be shaved off to better replicate the 6359 blades: If you shave the first one to your liking and then trace it on plastic sheet to make a template I think you can quite easily re-shape these blades. You’d likely have to thin the trailing edges a bit since you’re cutting in to the meat of the blade some. I’m almost tempted to draw a jig to hold the blades and trim them with the laser but it doesn’t like pure styrene, too melty. Let us know if you try this out! Jimbo
  6. Ouch Joachim, that’s gotta hurt...But good on you for the rebuild, I’m sure you’ll be able to get it back together. Stay the course, you can do it! Jimbo
  7. Fantastic man, just a superb build to enjoy. I love the fading steps, dusting on the lightened weathering. Really tones it nicely. Your build inspired me to pull the trigger and purchase an HK DO-335A. What s super kit. Anyway, thanks for sharing! jimbo
  8. Thanks as always fellows for the kind remarks. Bench time is precious lately but, and I’m sure I’m not the only one here susceptible to it, a new tool has pushed me to take some time to do a little work. In this case I purchased a UMM-USA PropMaster prop jig. Wow, do I love this tool! My thanks to Mr. Vojtech for ridiculously fast turnaround and for a great product. I have mentioned previously that that I thought I’d use the spare blades from my HK Lancaster kit to replace the somewhat misshapen B-25 blades. Since these blades had a different mounting lug than the B-25 blades, and were a bit long, I first removed about 2.5 mm or .100 inch of material from the hub end with my trusty razor saw: This effectively removed the squared-off mounting lug: Thereby, with a little cleanup with a sanding stick, the blades were ready to glue directly to the hubs: All that remains is is to fill a few voids on the back side at the joins and the props are ready for paint. Onward! Jimbo
  9. A friend that works for IEEE here in the states forwarded this link: https://spectrum.ieee.org/geek-life/profiles/the-imperial-war-museum-replicates-a-wwii-bombers-h2s-radar-display This is utterly fascinating and I'd love to hear from our friends across the pond if they visit the Museum. Enjoy all; Jimbo
  10. YHGTBFKM...... I’m looking for the tiny violin emoji....... Jimbo
  11. Two of the things that frustrate me when building kits are paint order and build order. Chicken or the egg? Which comes first? I spend a lot of time spinning my wheels trying to decide which, usually to then just plunge ahead and just do it for heavens sake! Here I’ve painted the cowl interiors aluminum: And here I’m painting the exhaust stubs, first a dark brown base and then a mist of red primer for a rusty effect (I might hit them with some rust powders during installation): I think I’ll do the cowl exteriors prior to bringing these all together. Onward! Jimbo
  12. Some small progress on a rainy Friday morning. Seems rainy days are made for hot coffee, playing hooky and modeling! This morning I worked on the empennage parts, gluing them together: After fighting a trailing edge that wouldn’t quite close up nicely, on closer inspection I found raised areas on the mating surfaces that resulted, I think, from the molding process: You can see the zig-zag pattern of very slightly raised plastic that corresponds to the fabric detail on the outside. With some diligent scraping and sanding I was able to relieve these areas for a tighter glue join at the trailing edges of the rudders and elevators. B-25 builders if you haven’t gotten this far check your parts. If left as is considerable sanding to achieve a thinner trailing edge would have wiped away the nice surface detail. Now back to the WNW channel LOL.... Jimbo
  13. Wow looks amazing Thomas, great detail you’ve added there. I enjoy working with strip styrene and think I’ll do likewise. Congratulations on the man-cave, it’s goid to have a place of your own! Jimbo
  14. Looks fantastic Marty, I’m following along and your pics are helpful for my build. Thanks for sharing and model on! Jimbo
  15. Thanks Brian! Just looking for more time. I know those plug wires are absurdly oversized but I don’t mind. I’m trying not to get too bound up in dreaded analysis paralysis. Onward then! Jimbo
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