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jimbo

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jimbo last won the day on July 11 2012

jimbo had the most liked content!

About jimbo

  • Rank
    Hooked For Life
  • Birthday 06/06/1963

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  • Website URL
    http://jamesharrmodelmaker.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    High Bridge, NJ USA
  • Interests
    1/32 scale aircraft, of course!

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  1. PM inbound Gunner..... jimbo
  2. Lol I guess so. 1/32 test done - strips are 7-1/8” long so 71-1/4 inches of tie-down strips would be $21 (~ .29¢/inch). Toms Modelworks does photoetched ones, 64-1/2 linear inches is $16.50 (~ .26¢/inch) . So slightly less for his.
  3. I started a 1/32 test sheet but had to cancel it to re-work the drawing file, it wasn’t cutting satisfactorily. So I can certainly do 1/32 but not sure of the costs yet and how it compares to the available photo-etch products; it would likely be more expensive. Plus I see no reason to compete with existing vendors?
  4. Greetings all; after seeing numerous mentions of a need for it I went ahead and did an ‘eyeball’ CAD drawing of 1/24 scale tie-down strips for laser cutting. [Moderators, kindly advise if this is inappropriate here in General and I’ll gladly remove it or relocate it. I wanted to gauge interest in this before committing to a “Vendors Board” or “Traders Board” topic.] Here’s a test-cut, the overall sheet is sized to fit a legal-sized envelope and contains ten 8-3/4” tie-down strips. The material is a cabinet-making product called Polybak, a resin impregnated paper product that super-glues fabulously. It’s .018” thick. So here’s the rub fellows; each sheet of ten 8-3/4” long strips takes 24 minutes to cut (ironic, right?). Laser cutting is typically $1/minute, so 87-1/2” of tie-downs would cost $24. They were spaced 11 deck boards apart; to do a 20” x 20” display base one would need about 140 inches of these strips (using 6” wide deck boards as a reference). That’s pushing $40 for 16 strips, more for a bigger base. I think postage would be negligible here in the US, to ship abroad I would need to research but since they will fit a legal-sized envelope (I’m sorry I don’t know what European size that is) they are easy to ship. SO, anybody interested? Should I take a hike? You won’t hurt my feelings to say it’s too expensive, but as they say time is money, and no, you can’t set the machine and walk away, that’s asking to burn your house or shop down. If there is sufficient interest I’ll start a Vendors board topic and take this off General. [PS: if anyone has any dimensional information or actual drawings of these strips I could easily tweak the drawing to make them more accurate. Mine are .25” wide, or a scale 6 inches.] Jim “Jimbo” Harr High Bridge, NJ USA
  5. I don’t want to hijack this thread but I went ahead and did an ‘eyeball’ CAD drawing of 1/24 scale tie-down strips for laser cutting. I’ll start a separate thread but just wanted to mention it here. Here’s a test-cut, the overall sheet is sized to fit a legal-sized envelope and contains ten 8-3/4” tie-down strips. The material is a cabinet-making product called Polybak, a resin impregnated paper product that super-glues fabulously. It’s .018” thick. Look for a separate thread. Jimbo
  6. Congratulations and may you both live long and prosper! jimbo
  7. Wow, that’s just super cool! Very imaginative and, imho, very plausible. Just to think of one of these screaming wide open over the open desert, whoooosh!!! Thrilling. Well done, friend, well done! Jimbo
  8. I have a Sherline. Let me know if I can be of assistance, if Pascal is not able to. Jimbo
  9. Any update in our favorite scale is always welcome. Thanks Kev! Jimbo
  10. A most compelling idea Tim. I hadn’t even thought of anything like it. Not to mention wasn't the original sheathed with lead? They could do it with copper now I’d think. Jimbo
  11. Thanks fellows; Well, Thomas, hmmmm indeed! So even after fabricating my props from spares I still never gave them much thought. An egregious error to be sure as there are clearly many varieties of aircraft propellers! Here is a photo from my main reference book (North American B-25 Mitchell The Ultimate Look) of what looks to be a proper B-25 propeller, shared with “fair use” for educational purposes in mind: The book I'm using states the following for propeller specifications for B-25s: C/D models equipped with Hamilton-Standard Model 23ESO-473 H/J models equipped with Hamilton Standard Model 1301F So it appears those are the HUB specifications, the BLADE specs are Model 6359A-18. Here is a photo of a 6359 blade from the “Aeroart” website: And finally a photo of the HK B-25 blades. You can see they are too wide. I’ve drawn with a black marker how much could be shaved off to better replicate the 6359 blades: If you shave the first one to your liking and then trace it on plastic sheet to make a template I think you can quite easily re-shape these blades. You’d likely have to thin the trailing edges a bit since you’re cutting in to the meat of the blade some. I’m almost tempted to draw a jig to hold the blades and trim them with the laser but it doesn’t like pure styrene, too melty. Let us know if you try this out! Jimbo
  12. Ouch Joachim, that’s gotta hurt...But good on you for the rebuild, I’m sure you’ll be able to get it back together. Stay the course, you can do it! Jimbo
  13. Fantastic man, just a superb build to enjoy. I love the fading steps, dusting on the lightened weathering. Really tones it nicely. Your build inspired me to pull the trigger and purchase an HK DO-335A. What s super kit. Anyway, thanks for sharing! jimbo
  14. Thanks as always fellows for the kind remarks. Bench time is precious lately but, and I’m sure I’m not the only one here susceptible to it, a new tool has pushed me to take some time to do a little work. In this case I purchased a UMM-USA PropMaster prop jig. Wow, do I love this tool! My thanks to Mr. Vojtech for ridiculously fast turnaround and for a great product. I have mentioned previously that that I thought I’d use the spare blades from my HK Lancaster kit to replace the somewhat misshapen B-25 blades. Since these blades had a different mounting lug than the B-25 blades, and were a bit long, I first removed about 2.5 mm or .100 inch of material from the hub end with my trusty razor saw: This effectively removed the squared-off mounting lug: Thereby, with a little cleanup with a sanding stick, the blades were ready to glue directly to the hubs: All that remains is is to fill a few voids on the back side at the joins and the props are ready for paint. Onward! Jimbo
  15. A friend that works for IEEE here in the states forwarded this link: https://spectrum.ieee.org/geek-life/profiles/the-imperial-war-museum-replicates-a-wwii-bombers-h2s-radar-display This is utterly fascinating and I'd love to hear from our friends across the pond if they visit the Museum. Enjoy all; Jimbo
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