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jimbo last won the day on July 11 2012

jimbo had the most liked content!

About jimbo

  • Birthday 06/06/1963

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    High Bridge, NJ USA
  • Interests
    1/32 scale aircraft, of course!

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  1. That just does not look “street legal” to me LOL...... jimbo
  2. Since the P-39 was a mid-engine aircraft I don’t think the deck behind the pilots’ head was used for radio equipment as other aircraft. This image of a drawing of the P-39 is from the book Aircraft Anatomy of World War II and shows the radio compartment as being in the fuselage behind the engine. Number 27 is labeled as the “radio installation”, Number 28 is “access panel” and Number 29 is the “radio equipment tray”. Unfortunately Number 43, the “engine compartment deck” which is the pan in the rear canopy is in the gutter of the book so hard to see. Image provided for educational use only jimbo
  3. Wow amazing! And you only have to do it 3 more times LOL... Really superb. jimbo
  4. Pete - Maybe the solution is to soak the whole piece? Just curious. Might change the properties too much? I don’t have any but sure looks like a great addition to the detailing stash jimbo
  5. Thanks for all you’ve done Kevin, onward and upward as they say! And I’m hopeful along with everyone else we will still see you around the Fora! jimbo
  6. Wow that is SO cool! That will get me to move up to RC. Thanks for sharing Brian! jimbo
  7. I’m looking forward to seeing you guys bring these to life! I think ABS should be fine - I find it works almost just like styrene, a little softer perhaps. I’ve made a lot of prototypes from it and like working with it. jimbo
  8. Nice bunch there. Wildcat is yours right Woody? Looks just super. I like that Mig 3 also. I really need to kick mine off the SOD and get it finished! jimbo
  9. Thanks Brian, nothing to it really, I quite enjoyed the exercise! And Lee, couldn’t have done it without you! Thanks to you as well for stepping up! jimbo
  10. Ok Chris and group. Here are some shots of this part. First a comparison between a primed assembly of acrylic parts (lower) and the kit styrene original (upper): Next a couple of views of the primed assembly posed on the kit styrene engine back part: Next I’ve grouped an unprimed assembly with the others: And here’s a view of the backside of the parts, compared: You’ll note the parts are a little crisper and sharper edged than the original; buried in the engine compartment I don’t think it will matter much. So, while this may not be as exact a copy as a resin part molded from the original I think it will work just fine. Chris I’ll send a PM to get your address but I think you are good to go. Happy modeling! jimbo
  11. Hi Chris; I recall you’ve already posted some images, but since I use ImageShack I’ll share the tutorial link here for you: I’ve been a bit under the weather over the weekend so I’m sorry to not have any more updates about replicating this part, but I Will tomorrow for sure! Stay tuned; jimbo
  12. jimbo

    Bandai K2SO

    Wow awesome! I’m all in on the Bandai Star Wars line. Dangerous for my wallet but I find them a relieving relaxing build. And one can go to town or just from the box and they look phenomenal. Great for you for sharing our favorite activity with your daughter! jimbo
  13. It’s a great tool Lee, indispensable to my architectural model making. jimbo
  14. Good point Andrea; In Supermarios build (referenced a few replies back) he points this out and if I recall he adjusted the engine bearer struts only to find out he removed too much and that he thought a bit of sanding alone would have been sufficient. He had to add material back to the struts to get it all to line up properly. Point being, Chris, lots of dry fitting will likely be in order for you! jimbo
  15. Excellent point Richard! That thought hadn’t occurred to me! Although, it is my plan to convert this to Olympic. I would wager Olympic at some point was drydocked? jimbo
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