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Everything posted by Thunnus

  1. Interesting to hear the time frames involved. I'm very worried about the abrasive nature of the hairspray technique so I tend to wait longer for the paint to fully cure. Sometimes I get decent results and sometimes, that topcoat just doesn't want to come off. 24 hours has been on the quick side of things when it comes to chipping so I probably need to make adjustments to my work flow. Since I've started on the engine work, I've decided to complete this stage before I jump back over to the cockpit. I've kept the components separate to make painting details easier. Since the restored Shiden Kai's have nice shiny engines that are uniformly metallic, I've taken some liberty with my color choices. For example the crankcase and ignition ring have been painted in a Green Gray (Tamiya XF-14), which may or may not be a match for the instruction call out of Mitsubishi Green, and the ignition wires in Brown. Once the engine components have been painted, I started gluing the components together. Here is a view of the engine banks from behind. You can see that they are hollow and not represented fully. Once the crankcase assembly is glued onto the engine cylinders, I can complete the wiring attachment. Each of the painted wires is bent and guided into place gently, trying not to put kinks into the wires or scratching off the paint. A few more wires are added to the top and bottom of the crankcase. This is not meant to be an accurate representation of the Homare engine but simply trying to create some plausible detail that will look good lurking behind the prop. Here is the engine temporarily mounted on the fuselage. I'll probably leave the engine detached until the very end so that I won't have to deal with masking off the exhaust tips. The view into the engine compartment with the engine cowling in place. Although much of the detail is lost, you still get a sense of busy complexity within, which was the goal. A view of the exhaust tips without the engine cowling flaps in place. Some views of the complete engine from my lightbox. I played around with weathering the engine, especially the crankcase, being the most prominent. Some of things I did besides the dark pastel wash were chipping with a sponge and flicking AK Engine Grime enamel using a stiff paint brush. I actually had to dial back some of that splatter by going over the crankcase in the base Grey/Green. The exhaust piping was sprayed using Alclad Steel and Exhaust Manifold and then dry-brushing the ends with a rust color. As a last touch, the hollow ends were lightly darkened with a thin mixture of Flat Black through the airbrush. The completed radial engine is not quite as hefty as the P&W R2800 from the Tamiya Corsair build but it is a nicely detailed powerplant that Hasegawa has provided.
  2. Thanks Miloslav! I've heard a lot of good things about MRP but inventory-wise, I'm committed to the acrylic/lacquers in the Tamiya, Mr Hobby Aqueous (Gunze) and AK Real Colors lines of paint. For the most part I've been able to perform the hairspray chipping with these paints but my results are always inconsistent and that probably has to do with the period of time I let the hairspray layer sit prior to the water application. Based on my test, I should be able to get usable results within a 24-hour window.
  3. I used Tamiya Lacquer Thinner to thin the Mr Hobby colors. The chipping fluids were left to dry for about 3-4 hours. The Mr Hobby colors were left to dry for 24 hours before I attempted chipping.
  4. Nice resource! I picked up Aero Detail 26 for my Shiden Kai build and found it to be a wonderful book. Jam-packed with info like most Japanese publications and it also has English.
  5. Conducted a few tests today. First was figuring out if the Mr Hobby lacquer colors that I purchased for the Shiden Kai would allow hairspray chipping. On my paint mule, I sprayed a base coat of Tamiya AS-12 Silver. Over the tail, put on a layer of MIG Scratches Effects liquid and forward of that I sprayed MIG Heavy Chipping Effects. Once those dried, I sprayed the tail with the Mr Hobby Kawanishi Cockpit color and then the Mr Hobby Kawanishi Dark Green forward of that. Just to compare the different greens that I had on hand, I also sprayed Mr Hobby Aqueous H-59 IJN Gloss Green and Tamiya XF-11 IJN Green. Using a stiff paint brush dipped in water, I was able to created chips on the Mr Hobby lacquer colors fairly easily. But I didn't quite like the way the Mr Hobby Dark Green sprayed. For one, it was dead flat, which I'd prefer not to deal with over the whole aircraft. Someone also question the accuracy of this particular color. I'm no expert and doing some internet research and finding some articles on Shiden Kai colors by Nick Millman didn't clarify matters conclusively. So... I'm decided on which green I'll be using to paint the exterior of the aircraft. But at least I can move forward on the painting of the cockpit. I conducted another test with the Galaxy Tools riveter. Compared it with the RB Productions Rivet-R and Rivet-R Mini, all of the tools set at 0.75mm spacing. Ignoring the crookedness of the lines, all of the rivets looked about the same, which is a good thing. From top to bottom are: Galaxy Standard, Galaxy Mini, Rivet-R and Rivet-R Mini. I also confirmed that the Galaxy Standard and Mini wheels in the 0.75 spacing are exact matches. I can re-trace the rivet line I made with the Galaxy Mini with the Galaxy Standard and riveter will put the points exactly in the rivet holes along the entire length of the line. The Rivet-R and Rivet-R Mini aren't exact matches. By carefully placing a point on the Rivet-R wheel into the hole made by the Rivet-R Mini and running it along the rivet line, you are making new holes by the time you get to the halfway point. Seems like a minor point but having exact matches eliminates at least one of the headaches I've been experiencing when riveting.
  6. Beautifully done, Miloslav! The finish and weathering are superb!
  7. Thanks Kirby! I've already set up a test with the Mr Hobby cockpit color and exterior green over Tamiya AS-12 Silver with a layer of MIG Scratches Effects and Heavy Chipping Effects in between. When it rains, it pours... the day after I got my Mr Hobby N1K2 paints, I FINALLY received my new rivet tools... Up until now, I've been using the RB Productions Rivet-R and Rivet-R Mini. They've lost a bit of their sharpness but when I looked to find replacement wheels, I couldn't find any stock. At the same time, I had seen a positive review of these new tools at The Modelling News website and thought I'd give them a try. There three types of tools... (1) the standard wheel which is about the same size as the Rivet-R, (2) a smaller radius wheel equivalent to the Rivet-R mini, and (3) a corner tool to allow you to place rivets in tight spaces or next to a raised wall. They offer these tools in two sets of rivet spacing. I chose the smaller group, which offers rivet spacing at 0.55, 0.65 and 0.75mm. One nice thing about these tools is that each wheel comes with its own mount. The RB Riveter sells its mount separately and having just one, I would have to take the thing apart each time I wanted to use a different rivet spacing. Now, I don't have to do that. Another thing that I didn't like about the RB tool is that the Rivet-R and Rivet-R Mini rivet spacing don't match. There is often a need to run the rivet wheel over existing rivets to clear up plugging by paint or sanding dust. But since the 1.00mm Rivet-R doesn't match the 1.00mm Rivet-R Mini exactly, you can mess up a set of rivets pretty easily if you don't remember which tool made which line of rivets. Hopefully, the Galaxy Tools does better in this regard. We'll see how the new riveting tool performs a little later!
  8. Looks like I won't have to because... Guess what came in the mail yesterday! I was plowing ahead with work on the engines since the missing paints are necessary. Actual color of the paint is very different from the Tamiya Khaki... it's more of a chromate green. I need to test to see if I can do hairspray chipping with these Lacquer paints. If not, I may use them as a base to mix using Tamiya and Mr Hobby Aqueous colors. I've prepared the engine to accommodate some wiring.
  9. Started making a little more progress on the G-14 since my other builds are waiting for items stuck in the postal system. The resin exhaust pipes have been painted.
  10. Thanks guys! That's too bad! The low speed router is REALLY handy! Amazing that the reduced RPM range and the form factor (much smaller) makes the tool that much more usable. I now feel comfortable using the D300 to help bore out exhaust tips, which is something I would NEVER consider with my other router. Thanks Mike! Nope, I dug into my spares and added a few stencils on the gun sight for visual interest. The fuselage/tail joint has been cleaned up and given a light coat of primer. Still waiting for the new rivet tool to arrive. The tail wheel, which is a single piece and features a really tiny tire, has been painted similar to the main landing gear legs. I've added some wiring to the cockpit components Still waiting for the cockpit paint to arrive. These shipping delays are very frustrating. I'm pretty much at a stopping stage on this build and have gone about as far as I can with the cockpit. I'm tempted to just start painting the cockpit using Tamiya Khaki XF-49. It's hard to say just looking at computer images but it seems to be a decent match to the Kawanishi Cockpit Green that I'm waiting for.
  11. Happy 4th of July everyone! We are just going to hunker down and have a quiet celebration at home... seems fitting with what's going on at the moment and gives me some more modeling time. Here is the Type 98 gun sight with all of the bits added on and painted.
  12. Thank you Robert and Michael! With the majority of the PE pieces assembled, if not permanently glued in or painted yet, I thought it would be a good time to dry fit the cockpit assembly. Many pieces are just sitting there so there is probably alot of misaligned and skewed parts. But it gives a sense of the scope of enhancements that the Brengun PE set brings to the table. There is still lots to do in the cockpit including the photoetch and acetate instrument panel, seat harnesses, maybe some wiring and painting, of course. I cut the upper wings off their sprue. I was keeping them attached to protect that thin trailing edge extension that will probably get broken at some point in the build. Rough fit with a few pieces of tape show a very good fit at the wing root. I do see a bit of that "underbite" along the trailing edge of the wing fillet that I've seen on other builds but that should be a very easy fix. Checking to see if the RB Models brass gun barrels need any special attention for attachment but they seem to be a plug-in fit.
  13. Since the two PE boxes came out ok, I sawed off the molded counterparts from the cockpit floor. This is where a sanding tool like the David Union D400 comes in very handy. With those structures out of the way, we can see how the replacement parts fit. Brengun not only provides lots of small levers but the mounts, complete with a hole in the middle, to accommodate the new levers. Lots of nice detail being added to the cockpit using the Brengun set! I've cleaned up the tail/fuselage joints and re-established the panel lines. Still waiting on the new riveter.
  14. Thanks guys! I have a lot of patience right now since I'm in wait mode on some critical items. I decided to take a stab at folding the bigger box. It's not very complicated but the windows and narrow bits gave me pause. The PE tool was used to initiate the folds but I would have to guide the final closure with my fingers. Whew! That wasn't too bad. The kit part goes on top of this structure but some removals, top and bottom, are necessary to accommodate the PE enhancements.
  15. I've decided to glue the tail to the fuselage first to get a good join. It's much easier to take care of this joint as well as possible now and deal with any top and bottom seam issues after the fuselage halves go together. I'm trying to ensure a level joint all around and avoid any steps between the tail and fuselage if possible. Just a dry fit to make sure all four pieces go together reasonably well. After this dries, I'll fill in the joint like I did the wing inserts. Back to some detail work... picking things that don't require to be painted in cockpit green since I don't have that color yet. The headrest is made of wood with a metal cap so I made a rough stab at simulating wood using oil paints. My first attempt at one of the box shapes for the cockpit. This one is made up of four parts but the folds are pretty simple. Here's the box next to the molded box it is supposed to replace. The bigger structure next to it forms the biggest and most complicated of the PE parts and I'm saving that for later. Next I tackle the throttle quadrant. First the molded levers are removed. There is a PE piece with slots cut into it that covers the curved face of the throttle quadrant. Holding that PE part in place with my fingers, I shoot the throttle face with black paint. This gives me a guide that I can use to cut grooves into the throttle face that will correspond to the slots on the PE part. So now the throttle body has some appropriately deep slots for the levers and throttle. The various PE levers are glued into place. The throttle lever is an interesting pistol-grip shape and is made up of three parts. You can't see it but I've built up the handles of the levers and throttle with UV epoxy to give them a more rounded cross-section. The throttle quadrant is placed high on the port sidewall and will be fairly visible. So these enhancement are well worthwhile.
  16. I love the systematic way you attack all of the issues that come your way. Entertaining and informative too. No, I totally agree about the tank and would do the same. I left out some internal parts from my Z-M Ta152 build because of the same reasoning. But I also ended up painting the engine. No added detail... just careful painting... with the hope that it might be possible to leave a panel as detachable. Didn't work out and the painted engine is buried forever.
  17. Very nice! I like how you've laid out your paint in accordance with the instruction call-outs.
  18. I'm impressed with this Brengun PE set. Very well thought out and executed. I tackled the gun sight attachment, which I thought might be difficult since it involves some of the smallest and most delicate of parts. The brass set adds the sighting bead and crosshairs. The frame is super delicate and I'll need to be extra careful not to break it. Here's what a full-size replica of the Type 98 gun sight looks like... I test fit the windscreen and found that it butts up right against the crosshair so that means the armored glass won't fit. So I decided to make a modification by shortening the delicate arm holding the crosshair. I did this for two reasons. One is to allow enough room for the armor glass between the gun sight and the windscreen. Two is to strengthen that fragile filament that was holding the crosshair away from the gun sight. I had already knocked on it a couple of times and was afraid that it was just a matter of time before it broke. I carefully snipped off the crosshair and re-attached it on leftover filament. I reinforced the join from the bottom with a bead of CA glue. The gun sight is a little inaccurate now but it's stronger and I can fit the armor glass. It took a few tries but I got the tiny frames for the reflector glass mounted on two pieces of clear acetate. I used acetate that was a little thicker than what was supplied with the Brengun set. The edges of one of the elements has been painted clear blue/green and the other element has been tinted. Storing them in a small baggy to keep them safe!
  19. Truly sublime work with that nose assembly. The neatness of finish really adds a sense of authority and authenticity!
  20. Great work on the Salamander! It is definitely an interesting aircraft and you are doing a wonderful job with the model and the enhancements.
  21. Great work on the cockpit Chuck! The dilemma of working on details that will go unseen is compounded for me because I don't like open hatches and canopies. It might seem like wasted effort to some but to me, my model is more about the process than just the end product. If that process is documented photographically and systematically as a build log here at LSP, I feel like that extra effort, while unseen at the end, is worthwhile.
  22. I apologize for jumping around not really getting into the meat of the build. I'm still waiting for the cockpit paint and rivet tools to arrive so I've just been doing small jobs not requiring paint. I've spent some time looking at the Brengun detail set and have specifically highlighted the non-cockpit items so that I don't overlook anything. The spring end of the landing gear actuation arm has no attachment point... it's just floating in space. You can also see how I've scrubbed the paint off the wheel hubs and added the PE bits to them. Brengun supplies a PE attachment point. A small but nice touch and Brengun has thoughtfully added an attachment pin to the part so connection is more positive. Brengun also offers a replacement for the oil cooler exit flap. I was especially proud of my efforts to match the curvature of the kit part... .sometimes this kind of thing gives me trouble. The interior side of the flap has some nice detail. But you really aren't going to see that detail unless you show the flap fully open. And if you do that, you'd be given a view into where the oil cooler assembly is supposed to be. But there is nothing to show. So... unless I want to add an oil cooler, it will be easier not to use the enhanced flap and just use the kit parts showing the flap closed. This PE part is not an addition but just a convenient way to cover up some ejector pin marks. Again, a thoughtful addition to the Brengun set. I punched a piece of brass sheet to create some more detail on the drop tank. I got a set of brass 20mm cannon barrels from a company called RB Models. I don't think it is related to Radu's company, RB Productions. And finally, another photo to show some of the additional staining I've put on the tires.
  23. I'm really liking the David Union tools. The D400 sander was the tool that initially caught my interest but I must say that the D300 has been the more utilized between the two. It takes advantage of all the Dremel bits that I have but at speeds that are very very useful for work on plastic. Wow... that is VERY interesting. Wooden but with raised rivets.
  24. Thank you Matsu! That is very helpful! Does anyone have any information regarding the Shiden's drop tank? I'm wondering if there are any details that can be added to it as it is very simple with just two circumferential panel lines and a circular depression on the top front to simulate the fill port.
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