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Thunnus

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Everything posted by Thunnus

  1. Props on such a great build. Your attention to surface details is amazing and I love your dedication to the removal of all of the surface irregularities, even when it is difficult to do so. I've been using rubberized CA for my surface fills and find it a little easier to sand than regular CA.
  2. Thanks guys! Thanks for additional insights, David! I noticed the tight fit of the main landing gear legs and had trouble removing one of the legs but luckily I was able to work it loose without damage. I will most likely avoid any more fitting of the gear legs until it is time to attach them permanently. I'll take another look at the tail gear... it would probably not be too difficult to replace the plastic post with brass rod since the tail is not yet permanently attached.
  3. My June is still heavily booked with family obligations. My youngest just graduated from high school and we'll be taking a family trip to the Eastern Sierras this weekend. And then driving up to NoCal next weekend. So not much modeling until next month probably. I had some time to glue the wings to the fuselage. As typical on this kit, the fit is amazingly good. Since I'm planning on leaving the wings removable, I'm very close to the painting stage. So I'm playing around with some pre/post-shading techniques using a Scotch Brite pad and splatter painting templates.
  4. Thanks Reuben! I love the Dora and plan to do a few more in the future!
  5. Thank you Paul! Not a big tail Dora but I do have a couple of those big tail kits in my stash and am planning to build one (probably Brown 4) in the future. Thank you Iain! I appreciate the comments!
  6. Thanks guys! I thought you guys would appreciate these color schemes! These will be fished and I'm pretty sure they'll produce but getting it on video will be the challenging part! I'll try and post the lures in action the next time I go bass fishing, which will have to wait until July since my June is so booked with family activities. I love the idea of kill markings in the form of fish!
  7. Hey Guys! Still too busy to jump back into my model builds but I'll get back to those soon. Fishing season has started and that usually takes a bite into my available time as well. Since I've not gotten to the exterior colors of either the Corsair or the K-4 build, I thought I'd play around with my fishing lures and paint a couple up using WW2 schemes. First, I did a US Navy tri-color scheme using the AK Real Colors paints. I looked around in my decal spares box and found the red mouth from the Eduard 1/48 Hellcat that looked like it would fit. With the second, I did a scheme that could be found on a 109K-4, RLM75/83 on the top with the late war RLM76 variation on the bottom. The lures will be coated with epoxy before the hooks are put on. Not sure how the bass will like em but I'll report back after I put them into action.
  8. Recommendations based on having two high school/college-aged children in the house. Bananagrams is a fun and simplified spin on Scrabble. Coup is fun role-playing card game. Games are very simple and short.
  9. Thank you for the comments! To Damian... Thank you for the additional details regarding the antenna mast. It makes sense that there would be an airfoil shape instead of the square cross-section represented by the kit part. I'll see what I can do about that! And the absence of the external bulge on the main gear doors should be correctable. I''ll have to refer to the kit parts to confirm. To Kais... Thank you for the comment about the canopy. Based on my understanding of Airfixer's comments on my G-10 build, the overlap between the rear edge of the canopy and the fuselage was a feature of the early Galland hood that were retrofitted to existing 109G airframes. And not a feature of the later G-10 and K-4 models? I was not planning on trying to replicate this overlap. June is a very busy month for me, fishing and family-wise so my work on Weisse 8 and the Corsair will be limited. I DID get my camera situation resolved however. I just received a replacement for the balky Canon S100... This Canon Powershot S110 was purchased used from EBay for less than $100. A preliminary test was conducted to see if the focusing and exposure compensation features were working correctly. The camera seems to work a-ok. As you can see, I've started to clean up the Henri Daehne resin spinner.
  10. The lipped edged around the main wheel wells have been masked off and sprayed Insignia White. I've also added some black staining to the wood block on the rear wheel well wall, although it is hard to see in the pics. Since the wheel wells are complete, I want to see if how the landing gear fits...
  11. I've pretty much taken care of the rivets on the horizontal stabilizers. It took a couple of rounds of filling though. When the Mr Surfacer failed to fill the holes, I resorted to Black CA glue, which I probably should've started with. The loop antenna on fuselage spine is a good replacement for replacement since the plastic loop is so thick. I used my trusty piece of Coke can to fashion a new loop. The FuG whip antenna and the pitot tube were similarly upgraded.
  12. Thanks! Correct on the weathering of the landing gear. I also added some brownish stains very sparingly along various joints and junctions using an AK Enamel Wash (Engine Oil, I think). For the tires, I threw a bit of everything. First, the the tires were sprayed dark brown/grey. I sprayed the contact surfaces a lighter tan/brown color. I then played around with applying some dry pastels to the wear surfaces but I always seemed to be wiping off the pastels whenever I touched the tires. So after sealing with a flat coat, I used a wet pastel wash to further stain the outer rim of the tires.
  13. Understood. I can either remove the metal plate on the stabs (which is actually raised), scribe the missing panel lines and apply rivets OR remove the rivets. I'm choosing to go with the latter and portray the wooden tail unit.
  14. It helps tremendously, Damian! Thank you for this information. Honestly, I was in auto-pilot mode when I was preparing the stabilizer parts for riveting. I was seeing the depiction of the metal panel leading edge and wondering why certain panel lines were missing but it wasn't registering in my brain until I read your post. Ahhh... it's WOOD... that's why! Unfortunately, I've laid down the rivets on one of the stabs already but have started to fill them.
  15. Right now, I am using a buggy Canon S100, which is a compact digital camera. A few days ago, it developed a couple of problems and now has trouble focusing and I have to manually adjust my exposure compensation on every shot. I've reset the camera and installed new firmware but the problem persists so I've already ordered a replacement... Canon S110. These are older cameras so I'm picking them up used on EBay for less than $100. I like this particular line of cameras because it allows me to shoot in RAW. All of my photos are shot in RAW and processed in Lightroom. I have three desk lamps (two on articulated arms) to help direct light. I also have a portable light box that I use for some of the shots... Thank you so much for this information! Hmmm... I can see that the upper right corner of the canvas panel being in a lighter non-blue color. I'll have to think about whether I want to make any more changes to the color of these panels.
  16. Just a few odds and ends to re-orient myself with the build. The access panel on the bottom of the fuselage is molded too softly so I am going to fill it with CA glue and re-scribe it. Added some bits of plastic and brass to make a bracket for the drop tank strap. The horizontal stabilizers have been given a coat of Mr Surfacer 1200 and marked with a pencil for riveting. And I've received the MDC cockpit decals from Vincent K! Thanks so much for your generous contribution to this build! Can you tell me where the blue SAUERSSTOFF decal (7) and the red bolt markings (8) go? I think I know where the other markings belong.
  17. Thanks for the comments! Especially the insight about the canvas in wheel well sidewalls. Couldn't respond or update since I was on a trip to Texas over the weekend. Before I left for my trip, I had glued the top and the bottom of the center wings together. There were some tiny gaps around the cooler intakes that I filled with White Milliput. Per the comments by Alfonso, the canvas side panels in the wheel wells were painted in a couple different shades of tan/buff and the square block on the rear wall has been painted brown.
  18. Late March of this year. Take a look at this thread...
  19. Alexey at AMUR Reaver said that he was going to re-stock some of the 109G resin upgrades but did not give me any specifics beyond that. He also said that he was working on a new G-10 Mtt conversion as an upgrade to the Revell G-6 kit. If you have any questions, I'd PM him directly. He posts as Fencer-1 here at LSP.
  20. Thanks for the positive comments! They really challenge me to not only move forward on these builds but inspire me to try and do better. I've finally gotten to the point where I could install the wires to the landing gear door actuators from the central hydraulic junction. To make this manageable, I cut the actuating struts from the doors and installed them first. I didn't think I could've managed the wiring with the doors in the way. I think this was a good decision as wiring was fiddly enough with the landing gear wells still separate from the wing bottom. The wheels wells have been given a flat coat and I've added some sponge chipping and enamel washes to add some color. The main wheel wells were the last of the four major interior components that needed to be completed (cockpit, engine and tail wheel well being the others). I think the build will move a little faster now.
  21. Beautiful work Guy! The finish on the Corsair turned out wonderful and I love all of the non-standard details like the stands and ladder. Very unique!
  22. Perhaps! Aren't Tamiya and Mr Hobby Aqueous similar in composition, being acrylic lacquers? In other respects, the AK Real Color paints have been behaving very similar to Tamiya and Mr Hobby Aqueous. Please let us know how the chipping goes on your beautiful Spitfire build. Thank you! You'll have a blast building the Tamiya kit... it really is a modeling marvel.
  23. Thanks for the discussion guys! It's great to have such detailed information on this build thread... very useful, not only for my build but for others as well. I also have a copy of the Model Art book and drawings and agree that they are a good reference but with all references, not assumed to be 100% correct. I will probably use the scale drawings for a riveting guide. The corners of the K-4 canopy are rounded off with a coarse sanding stick. The buggy camera refused to focus on this part so I had to put a black mark on it. Although I've rounded off the corners, you can see that the rear of the canopy still has a slight flat spot compared to the reference cross section. I'm hesitant on making any more significant changes due to the thinness of the clear part. Here's the corrected canopy sitting upon the corrected fuselage. I've filled in the fuel hatches on the spine and will scribe new ones. The canopy has been polished with Novus plastic polish but aren't crystal clear. I'll have to give them another round of polishing and maybe a dip in Future.
  24. Chipping was HARD! I used the MIG Scratches Effect and I found the AK Real Color Insignia White very stubborn and resistant to chipping. I used the fiberglass brush and also the toothpick. After I chipped the wheel wells, I gave it a gloss coat and applied a dark brown wash. Here's what the wheel wells look like so far with that initial phase of weathering done. It's still gloss so a flat coat and probably some more staining still to come.
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