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Everything posted by Thunnus

  1. Thanks guys! Especially the additional info on Horst Carganico's Mickey Mouse markings! Work continues on the G-6. The exhausts have been painted. Alclad Steel sprayed straight onto the resin as a base. Tinted with Alclad Exhaust Manifold, drybrushed with some rusty reddish brown color and then the tips were sprayed black. After the starboard side decals were completed, I sprayed the model with a light coat of Alclad Aqua Gloss. I use a custom-mixed, water-based pastel wash. All of the past riveting, filling and re-scribing comes to the surface. After the applied wash is dry, the model is wiped clean with a damp paper towel. It's funny that its called a wash when you are actually dirtying up things. I'm going to let this sit for a day. Before the wash is sealed with a clear coat, it's good to step away and then come back to make sure you clean off all of the wash. Some inadvertent stains are good, others will detract so I'll take a look with fresh eyes tomorrow. I love the look of the AMUR Reaver G-6/AS cowling. It has those bulged muscular proportions that made the DB605 aircraft so cool.
  2. Thanks guys! Inching along with the markings. The port side decals have been completed. I had to use some heavy-handed techniques to get the Mickey Mouse decal to settle into the panel lines. Multiple applications of different decal solvents (MicroSol and Solvaset), physically cutting the decals along the panel lines and even running the rivet wheel across the decal.
  3. Gloss coat applied (Alclad Aqua Gloss)... Port side decals about 75% done...
  4. Since this is a Fw190, I am very interested to see this one!
  5. Thanks guys! Correcting the port fuselage cross was job #1 today. Placing the mask on Post-its like I did previously aids in placement but it can also restrict the mask from conforming to a curved surface. This time, the mask was placed first and the Post-its were put on afterwards to protect from overspray. As before the white borders were sprayed first and then the white portions were masked off. The fuselage and upper wing crosses are called out as Grey (RLM 74), not black. Ah... much better! With the crosses and swastika done, I think I can cover the model in gloss in preparation for decals and further weathering.
  6. Time to apply the markings. I scanned an Eagle Cal's Bf109G-6 decal sheet and used it as a template to make custom masks for the crosses and swastika. With multi-color masks, there are always a few ways you can paint these. I decided to do the white borders first. So I applied the outline mask and sprayed the white. Keeping the outline mask in place, I placed the little "L" masks for white borders and sprayed RLM 74 Gray over that. Same deal with the wing bottom, except I ran into a little paint pull-up. This was fixed using pieces of Post-Its as a corrective mask. One thing that you have to watch out for with vinyl masking material (Oramask 810) is that it can stretch or distort. That happened with the fuselage crosses. The distortion was bad enough to redo the marking altogether. So it's back to square one on the port side. I managed to correct the starboard fuselage cross without having to re-do it.
  7. Artool Freehand Airbrush Templates, Texture Fx Mini Series
  8. Results of the hairspray chipping on the wing roots... After a few touch-ups, the RLM 76 main camo is complete. The yellow beneath the nose is masked off and painted. The model in the lightbox to try and show the effects of the preshading.
  9. Thanks Kirby! The masks were bits of scrubbing pads and an artist's template for random spots. And yes, the hairspray has been applied under the preshading. After the hairspray on the wing roots has dried, it is time to start painting the RLM 76! I am using AK Real Colors RLM 76 Version 2 thinned with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner at a 2:1 thinner to paint ratio. Since the paint mixture is so thin, the color needs to be built up slowly, leaving only a hint of the preshading underneath. It took a number of refills of my airbrush cup to cover the entire aircraft but it eventually got done. Using this technique, it is important to let the finish dry completely before deciding your finished. While curing, the highly thinned RLM 76 may mix with the preshading below and reveal more of the preshading.
  10. Thanks guys! I'm going to constrain the hairspray chipping to the wing roots only. Assuming that the wing root fairing is made of wood, I've painted the area appropriately. The preshading will occur in two phases. The first is preshading the panel lines in black. Next a random mottle pattern is applied using a combination of different masks.
  11. Slow going on the modeling front. I would've thought that I'd have time to spend in the modeling room now that our state is under mandatory shelter-in-place orders. But that has not been the case. I've been busy working at home and also my mind continues to dwell on the friends I left in Central Asia. One who is especially dear to me and is going through some unfortunate health issues right now. But I have tomorrow off and with no likely fishing opportunities, I'll probably get to do some more modeling this weekend. In the few hours that I have spent working on this G-6, I've cut some exhaust deflectors from brass sheeting. The Barracuda resin wheels have been painted. Still some weathering work to do on the landing gear but the base painting is done.
  12. I don't do anything specific to avoid discoloration or staining... it just hasn't happened to me. It sounds like the salt has reacted with the underlying paint? I am using Tamiya, Mr Hobby or AK Real Colors acrylics for paints, Alclad Aqua Gloss for my clear gloss and Testors Model Master Flat Clear Acrylic for my clear flat. My painting order for the prop blades is 1) Tamiya AS-12 Silver (decanted from a spray can), 2) hairspray, 3) Mr Hobby Aqueous RLM 70 Black Green, 4) MM Flat Clear Acrylic. The salt was applied after the Flat Clear Acrylic. The salt itself is rock salt or sea salt (not table salt) that I put in a small ceramic bowl and grind into a finer grain. The pic below is from a different build but you can see the salt that has been applied to the prop blades. This is allowed to completely dry and then I mist a lighter color over the salt encrusted blades. After that dries, I remove the salt by spraying the blades off with water.
  13. Thanks guys! Are my photos visible right now? Postimage seems to be down on my end so I was going to wait until service was restored before I respond to Matt's question about the salt fading.
  14. Work continues on the G-6/AS. The bisected inner flaps were painted using mottled black as a preshading base. This represents the process that will be used on the overall aircraft. The DF loop antenna base was re-shaped using Milliput. The loop itself was cut off and replaced with a strip of aluminum from a soda can. The landing gear legs were painted. A brake line made of lead wire was added. The prop blades were painted RLM70 Black Green over a Tamiya AS-12 Silver base and slightly chipped using hairspray. The blades were then given a couple of salt fading passes. The prop blades were attached to the spinner with the help of the mounting jig that Barracuda sells separately. This ensures that the blade position and pitch are uniformly correct. A test fit of the finished prop onto the unpainted fuselage...
  15. Thanks guys! This one is still on-going but I think I'm going to concentrate on the G-6/AS first. Yeah a bit of a pain, to be honest. Some of it was on me like modifying the wing bottoms to backdate the H-1 kit to an H-0. Since both kits are out of production, I really didn't have much of a choice in getting hands on a Z-M Ta152 kit so I got the one that would give me the most headaches: an H-1 molded in black plastic. The way that the external panels rely on the internal structure can be a house of cards. Small deviations in fit on the inside can multiply into major panels having fit issues toward the end. But nothing too serious. It looks like I will have a gap at the upper forward wing roots and for this reason, I'm not as excited to move this project forward and will most likely get the G-6/AS across the finish line first.
  16. Thanks guys! Ok, I'll go forward with the all RLM76 scheme as originally planned. Since I do a lot of multi-colored Luftwaffe subjects, I should take this opportunity to do something a little out of the ordinary. Nope, not too late. I was going to give in to laziness and not address but the modeler OCD got the best of me and the reinforcing strips along the wing root were scribed. At this point, I decided to paint the Barracuda spinner. First comes the base coat in white. Using an Eagle Editions decal sheet as a base, I traced a spiral mask in AutoCAD and cut it out using my Silhouette Portrait cutter. Black was then sprayed over the mask. The minor imperfections such as kinks in the curve and overspray were repaired using bits of masking tape. It's important to get the edges of the spiral really clean. It's hard to see but I painted the spinner backplate as it came from the factory... in Black Green RLM 70 with a quarter panel in white. The spinner was given a wash to highlight the nice detail that Barracuda cast onto the spinner. The completed spinner mounted onto the fuselage.
  17. The clear parts have been riveted, polished and then dipped in Future. Eduard masks were used on the clear parts, which were then glued onto the fuselage. The tail feathers have been glued into place as well. Looks like I'm almost at the painting stage. The question is... do I still want to do the all-RLM76 scheme?
  18. Welcome to LSP, Kirby! Your modeling skills will fit well with the folks here! Looking forward to your work on this vintage kit. I remember those multi-colored Matchbox kits from my childhood.
  19. My scanner is too small but hopefully these digital photos of a few pages from the Dora Volume 2 book will help...
  20. Hey Kirby! What's going on? I think you and your work will be greatly appreciated here. You do fantastic work yourself! I hope you are doing well and look forward to seeing you post more here at LSP!
  21. Thanks guys! I appreciate the kind words on this past build! All of my 1/32 builds have been commissions so I don't have any to display! Which is fine with me as I am not one who wants to have a collection of built plastic models. I like working on them and documenting the results with photos. I'm happy to part ways with the models after that!
  22. Thanks guys! It's good to be home again. Like everyone else, still trying to adjust to the new norms. Picked up my two girls from school yesterday where they'll be doing online classes until further notice. Did the SD/SF round trip drive in one day. On the modeling front, continuing work on the G-6/AS. The cleanup work around the cowling has been finished so I've moved forward and glued the wings into place. The joint at the wing roots is good so I won't be having to spend much time here once the glue dries. There will be some work to do on the bottom however. In addition to the gaps to be filled, there is also a step along the joint between the right and left wings. A bit of scraping will be required to make it level.
  23. Such wonderful work Chris! The battle damage is very well executed!
  24. Do you have Jerry Crandall's Dora Volume 2? It has a detailed analysis of Yellow 10's color scheme that contradicts JaPo's interpretation. It's based on grey scale analysis of the black and white photos as well as Mr. Crandall's first hand inspection of the Yellow 10 airframe and specifically refutes the use of RLM81 on Yellow 10. Crandall's Dora book assumes a base camo of 75/76 in contrast to JaPo's 82/81/76. Both interpretations have merit, IMO so it makes the modeler's choice even more confusing.
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