Jump to content

Thunnus

LSP_Members
  • Posts

    2,535
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    193

Everything posted by Thunnus

  1. Woohoo! Another Dora build! Really looking forward to seeing your work on these two kits, Spyros. You and Hoss are such talented modelers and yet different so I'm eager to see these builds happen side by side! I don't know if you saw the comment on Hoss' build about the seat back being made of dark steel and would not chip as a bright metallic. Mr. Crandall (Rest in Peace) pointed that out to me on my D-13 build. He also pointed out that the Dora, for the most part, did not carry any data stencils on the landing gear legs. The painting of the cockpit components is A-1, especially the weathering on the rear deck! You'll be sad when the cockpit gets boxed in later!
  2. I honestly can't remember anything particular about this process as it happened over two years ago. I want to say that there were small holes in the decals for some of the switches but I can't say for sure. Sorry!!!
  3. No tenting issues on my F4U-1a build. I remember being very dubious about how they would work over the raised details on the side consoles but the decal solution (Micro Sol) sucked them down into place without much effort on my part.
  4. Keep us updated on the cowl part, Michael! I'd love to see this build continue.
  5. I'm not a jet guy but there is something about a Phantom in Vietnam camo that stirs my interest. I'm loving this scheme!
  6. Thanks for the comments guys! Tijuana orphanage visit last weekend and bass fishing this weekend so I won't be able to provide an update for a few days! Will be back soon!
  7. Wonderful progress and the engine plug looks great! I painted the false bulkheads on my first D-9 build RLM02 per the instructions and then I figured out, as you did, that they don't exist and simply serve to accommodate the rear engine detail. Thank you for the compliment! There are so many different ways to build the same model and I make no claim that my way is better than any other but I'm glad that you've found my past builds useful! And I'm sure that you'll have your own unique take on how to approach things so I'm looking forward to Hoss's version of this iconic Dora!
  8. That fuselage front section looks incredible Jay! Just incredible... hats off!!!
  9. Beautiful! The 332xxx schemes are some of my favorites and I love how this one turned out.
  10. New antennae look great, Spyros! Love the subtle staining on the white "6"!
  11. Wow... congratulations on your 1st place at IPMS Nationals! Very well deserved... this model looks better every time I look at it!
  12. Thank you! I'm not sure they are still available but here is the link to AMUR Reaver's listing of the G-10 cowling... http://amurreaver.ru/?p=1544 Thank you Sasha!
  13. Some more work on Brown 4. I've replaced the wing camera opening with a ring punched from sheet styrene to make it more uniformly circular. Next, I decided to paint the exhaust pipes. I'm using the kit pieces that I've modified by hollowing out the ends with an x-acto blade. The exhausts are given a base coat of black. This is followed with a coat of Alclad Steel. Next is a light coat of Alclad Exhaust Manifold, which gives the exhausts a bronze tint. I mix up a rusty brown color using Brown, Red and Yellow. This is dry-brushed onto the exhausts. It's back to the airbrush for the last step. I spray a thin mix of black into the openings of the exhaust, isolating each individual pipe with a small Post-It. And the exhausts are finished. I'm sure there are other, better ways to paint exhausts but this method is relatively simple and repeatable and yields decent results. Here's a look at how the exhausts look mounted in the fuselage.
  14. Cockpit looks fantastic! Great start to this Dora!
  15. Sorry if I led you down an erroneous path, Spyros! But the prop blades look fantastic!
  16. This will be an awesome project, Woody! The Tamiya Corsair is best model kit I've ever experienced and I'm sure you'll enjoy the heck out of building yours! Make sure you pick up Barracuda's cockpit stencil decals for it... they really make the cockpit POP! Awesome OG Revell Corsair too!
  17. Work continues on Brown 4... I've augmented the coolant and oil overflow ports with brass tubing. Here is a look at the rudder with the Archer control surface decal applied. This one took the most time and effort since the Ta152H tail is slightly different than the standard 190 and the decal had to be custom cut to fit. The upper wings have been glued onto the wing bottom. I'll take some time inspecting the glue seam and cleaning it up. The brass flap bays have been glued into place using CA glue. I'm going to run a bead of black CA glue along the trailing edge since it is both a glued joint and a PE folding edge. This oval panel just outboard of the landing gear attachment has been filled with black CA glue. From my understanding, this panel indicates a conversion from a 190A, which had an outer wing gun position. Since not D-9's were converted from earlier A-series airframes, this panel is not present on all Doras. I have a decent view of the leading edge of Brown 4's wing and based on that photo, I am removing this panel. This might be related to the panel that I've removed from the upper wing. My guess is that it is related to a conversion from an 190A wing. Again, I have a reference photo that happens to show that area of the wing and I can see no indication of the panel so it too has been filled with black CA glue. Let's a take a look at the kit prop compared to the resin prop from Henri Daehne. Beyond the subtle shape differences, the resin spinner has a nicely defined panel line around the middle with a row of rivets. The openings for the prop blades is noticeably larger on the HD version as well. The larger opening is necessary to accommodate the well-detailed prop blade attachment rings, complete with counterweights.. The prop blades shapes are similar but the HD's is "curvier" with a noticeable hump at the base of prop blade. The prop hub and backplate... no comparison between the two! Please note the that I've already modified the hub cover and embedded a tiny magnet within. This matches another magnet that I've glued into the spinner cap, allowing the removal of the spinner cap to show the detail underneath. I always procrastinate with the painting of nice resin parts and HD's resin props are probably the nicest resin I've run across so it might be awhile before I work up enough nerve to throw paint on these.
  18. Ah... sorry guys... forgot to mention that I had placed circular masks over the landing gear attachment point to keep them clear of paint. The openings are present and square in shape... just temporarily covered by tape.
  19. Thanks guys! Here's a look at few more fabric-covered control surfaces per Archer's decals covered with primer. Now that the control surfaces are done, I can move forward toward completing the wings. The Quickboost resin cannon barrels are glued into the wheel well. The attachment for the landing gear is molded into the wing bottom so don't forget to paint that to match the rest of the wheel wells. The wheel well insert is then glued into the wing bottoms using Tamiya Extra Thin cement. While the glue dries, I've jumped over to the landing gear legs to finish those off. The brake lines, made of copper wire and painted black, are glued into place. The interior of the landing gear covers were painted in RLM 02 Grey (Mr Hobby Aqueous). The SOW composite legs are glued using CA glue. The wheels will not be mounted until after the plane can sit on her own legs so that I can properly orient the flat spots. But here is what the completed landing gear legs look like with the wheels on.
  20. Wonderful to see one of these built! Great work on the cockpit!
  21. I also checked JaPo's Dora books and they didn't mention anything about the prop blade materials other than they were wood. There were a couple of photos of broken props that didn't show any indication of metal reinforcement so I am now in agreement with Mike. I guess I jumped to conclusions when I saw the photo that I posted and assumed that the strip on the leading edge was metal.
  22. FWIW... I did a search on the photo that I posted and it was listed as a prop from a 190A at the National Technical Museum in Prague. I could find no other information on it. And also... the photo Mike posted of the D-9 seems to indicate some sort of "something" along the leading edges of the two visible prop blades, if my eyes are not deceiving me. The brownish color could be rusted metal... just saying.
  23. Part Two of painting the exterior of the landing gear covers. A base coat of Tamiya AS-12 decanted into the airbrush was treated with hairspray and covered with RLM 74 Dark Grey (Mr Hobby Aqueous). A stiff paint brush dipped in water was used to disrupt the RLM 74 and cause chipping, mostly around the edges of the covers. I changed up the order and painted the data stencils next. Compared to a US nickel and penny, you can get a sense of how incredibly fine the text is. The stencil masks have a lost a bit of their adhesiveness but retained enough to still work well. The custom recipe for the brown was mixed and used to paint the "4" via custom cut masks. The landing gear cover attachment bolts were often in need of repair and many Doras have visible primer applications around these bolts. I replicated this by brush painting rough circles around a few random bolts using RLM 76 Light Blue (Mr Hobby Aqueous). The covers were then sprayed with Alclad Aqua Gloss thinned with 91% iso alcohol instead of Mr Leveling Thinner. A black pastel wash was used to highlight the rivets and panel lines and the gear covers were given a flat coat (Model Master Clear Flat Acryl) to seal the painting.
×
×
  • Create New...