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Madmax last won the day on January 1

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  1. This really is a work of art Tom! I hardly ever get to this section of LSP, but a recent discussion with my preferred printer (Andreas - a wonderfully talented German chap) had me scouring the internet for information about U-510. That's how I stumbled upon your build. The interesting part is that Andreas's father was a submariner... on this very U-boot! He survived the war, which is an incredible feat when one considers the loss rate of the U-boot fleet. I think they were an exceptional, or at least exceptionally lucky crew. Running out of fuel just days before the war ended (and subsequent capture by the Americans) probably helped. Andreas remembers a saying his dad must have taught him: 'Bedenkt und verlasst euch darauf U-510 taucht immer wieder auf!' which loosely translates to - Reflect and rely on this, the U-510 keeps on popping up (surfacing)! Cheers, Sean
  2. Yup! Only some parts of it though John. In this photo you can see where it is most noticeable. There are some other facets that I'll point out when I get there... Thanks Nick! I will be needing some masks for this, so ignore what I said in John1's F-4 build. Thanks Craig, I can imagine that B-17 rivet pattern inaccuracies are worthy of a book in itself! Hey Thomaz, kind of you to check in on the progress. I enjoyed watching the technique on that P-51 build - probably a quicker way of doing it. I was particularly impressed with the modeller's (Josef Choreñ's) confidence when working the plastic. Good hands!
  3. Gotta love this forum! Timmy's subsequent post is equally fantastic... Excuse the interruption John, I know how distracting it can be when Nick points out detail stuff.
  4. Maru, jou kommentaar is baie aanmoedigend - dankie! Cheers Kev! Thanks Craig! You may recall that when I was busy with the flaps I mentioned giving their surface some treatment - well, I've gone and worked on the horizontal stabs first. I enjoy adding some visual interest to the skin of an aircraft that is typically seen with variations caused by stresses in the aluminium between rivets. In WWII subjects, it mostly bulges slightly outwards between rivet rows, although I must add that the thin skinned Japanese aircraft showed any number of effects. Here is a freshly skinned horizontal stab during one of the big P-47 restorations. My technique relies on the rivet line to create the effect, so it is important to get that right first. It is difficult to find accurate rivet patterns, and I found these otherwise lovely drawings to be a bit lacking in accuracy. It probably wouldn't be far off, but OCD me wanted a bit more. If you compare the drawing to the real thing you'll see what I mean. The drawing is too uniformly spaced between ribs - so I worked off the walk-around photo's. This is how I interpreted the rib spacing etc. After running the RB rivet wheel down the pencil lines (as close as possible by eyeball ), I then slightly deepen the rivets where the work will occur. This plastic is pretty soft, so I only use folded sandpaper to sand along the rivet line. Not too deep now, the effect is best kept subtle! Then the important bit: I sand lightly between the rivet lines to create a gentle bulge. This is refined with sanding sponges (1000 and 2000 grit) and eventually polished with micromesh cloth of varying grades. There is a lot of cleaning of the rivet holes while the work happens, otherwise the effect is lost. It is the rivets that cause the 'pillowing' after all! Go on, try it... Cheers, Sean
  5. This is a valid point Quang. For those who don't know about this issue, here is how the cowling fits if the engine mount isn't moved down. It doesn't look too bad in this view, but in the next photo the problematic fit is a bit easier to see. Maybe Hasegawa based the fit on this restoration? But I believe the bottom of the cowl should actually be in line with the bottom of the fuselage. Like this: The problem may also have something to do with the shape of the fuselage where it joins the cowling. I believe it is too 'square' and should be more rounded - leaving a bigger gap around the cowl-flaps when viewed from behind. I have tried to sand the nose rounder, but beware, the plastic thins out pretty fast. Here is another shape that seems to be wrong - the rounded portion just ahead of the big louvres. I sanded it off and went with a scribed panel that looks more like this one's belly. There is a panel line that runs along the join seam on top of the forward fuselage. This caused some headaches as I'm sure many of you have experienced with the spine of a Bf-109. I used super-thin cement to glue the fuselage, and the melted join is tricky to scribe. I think it might have been better to use superglue on this portion. The dark splotches ahead of the panel are where I sanded right through the plastic. Thick cyano to the rescue. The fin fillet for the -40 is luckily included in the kit, but looks too chunky if used OOB. Some more high risk sanding to thin it out as you can see by how the light shines through the plastic! I'm sure you noticed that the rudder got chopped off. It needs some work to get it into shape, like this beautifully rebuilt one. It also takes a bit of fettling to place the fittings for the rudder bellcrank and the elevator joining-tube thingy, but it looks way better than the one-piece control surfaces. The riveting wheel is about to make a couple of revolutions... Cheers, Sean
  6. You are quite right Quang - double tweezers did the trick! Only snag is, I can't seem to get the HGW belts to drape nicely. You'll see what I resorted to shortly... Thanks Nick! Do we get to see your Corsair at a stage? I don't have the knack of making the micro-fabric belts look realistic on the seat. They seem to levitate in places where I want them to hang. Lead foil to the rescue! I was able to salvage the buckles; which is the key. I can't imagine cutting them by hand (like Derek B does). Now the belts sit more like gravity would have them do. Only snag of course, is painting them. Maybe someone can tell me the trick with fabric belts? These photo's were taken in natural light, and you get a better idea of how the Dull Dark Green looks. Maybe a bit too light, but otherwise the detail in the cockpit just disappears. Painting the belts is a bit messy around the buckles - I'll try and neaten it up a bit. The Yahu IP really is incredible! It does feel like cheating to use one... And look, I added a magneto selector: the red 'lever' on the bottom left of the panel. That'll take the curse off it! Just before closing the fuselage, the vents have to be installed. I gave them a little ducting so they look a bit more functional when viewed from the outside. The intercooler doors are also in need of some ducting if one elects to have them open. Here are the real ducts: These are my cheapo reproductions. Time to close her up. Glue please nurse... Sean
  7. One of the coolest ejection seats I've seen in miniature. Well done Derek!
  8. Looking fantastic Quang - I'm really enjoying the weathering!
  9. Thank you Kev! I'd love to see the size of the cupboard where you stash your popcorn Mike... Very kind of you Tom! Ja-nee Gerhard, you have more of a local flavour to your Afrikaans. - thanks for checking in! I don't have much of a story to tell this time, just some pictures of the bits I've managed to paint so far. The Dull Dark Green looks a bit lighter than it actually is, probably because the camera was compensating for the dark background. The decals are from the fantastic HGW P-47D Stencils and Placards set. This is a first for me - a Yahu IP! I wanted to save some time, and I really like the precise printing. It does lack some depth however; so you'll notice the switch covers I added on the lower central panel. I might still add the magneto selector that goes in the bottom left corner... The QB engine paints up very nicely - the fine resin details are hard to beat in plastic. The time spent on the ignition harness is well worth it too. Some oil leaks added: Now to get those HGW seat belts threaded through the tiny buckles. Cheers, Sean
  10. That engine is a thing of beauty! Your supplemental metal work is inspirational John: just the right combination of straight or curved. One can tell immediately which is plumbing, wiring or pushrod. Brilliant.
  11. Wow! It's wonderful to watch a master craftsman at work. Thanks for posting your work here Katsuya.
  12. Jou Afrikaans is verstommend goed Maru - baie dankie! Most of us model builders want things that could possibly move on an aircraft posed in such a way to say: 'Look, it moved!' Flaps down, vents open, slats open, and canopy ajar (except for Thunnus). I look at photographs to see what is often at odds with a 'clean' aircraft, and try to replicate that. On the P-47, the flaps are often down when standing on the ground. Maybe it's part of the shutdown checklist to facilitate maintenance or the next pre-flight? Whatever, down they go. But there is a snag. Hasegawa designed the flaps to be up, despite giving us a choice of hinges. Just look at the raised portion of skin to make them flush with the wing when retracted... And these silly little stubs, that should actually be pretty complicated, articulated things that turn the flaps into 'slotted flaps'. I have made very simplified arms to replicate them. They should look more like this, but that is something best left to JayW to replicate (in fact I think he did in his 1/18th P-47D heavy mod). They are even more complicated than shown here but I don't have a picture. Check out this little video: The kit hinges could use some attention to de-klunkify them. Then I got rid of the raised portion of the flap. They will have to be re-riveted now. I intend to 'pillow' the skin lightly in certain areas of the model which I will point out later (the top of the flaps being a prime candidate). There are two additional details that the flap can benefit from. Pity I didn't buy an etched exterior set for the end cover - not sure I'm going to bother cutting one from styrene. The lack of detail behind the resin engine is actually not an issue. I didn't click that it is blocked from sight. Anyway, I figure an exhaust might be useful when looking into the back of the cowl flaps. This was made with thick sprue, melted and stretched over a paint bottle. Should do the trick... That's it for now. Cheers! Sean
  13. Derek, the seat is looking so good that it's immaterial if an aircraft ever gets built around it! I can see years of survival equipment handling coming to life in miniature - lovely to watch. Are you going to pack a chute for the horseshoe pack? Sean
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