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JayW

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JayW last won the day on September 8 2023

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About JayW

  • Birthday 06/05/1951

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  1. In honor of the recently deceased Bud Anderson, I include a painting of his P-51B Old Crow: Bud had a long productive run. Blue skies.
  2. I met this man years ago when he was doing a tour. Articulate, patient, willing to talk to teh riff raff like me. I asked him about gun jams on P-51B/C's - said it wasn't that big a deal. Anyway - he had a long run. Blue skies Col. Anderson.
  3. Yes I will second that. It looks as if the error was never made. But then that is what I have come to expect. A good teaching moment as well for us mere mortals.
  4. Ok John - master of repairs. Let's see how you fix this. What a wonderful paint job BTW.
  5. Always interesting to see how metal skin work is done by others. I have used thin CA to get uncooperative edges down, with varying success. That spray can of 3M adhesive - I wonder.... I was using the Weldwood thinned with something I no longer remember to glue panels. Now I am using the stuff Airscale is using - Evo-stick - with better results. Alot of me is saying "if it ain't broke don't fix it". What a beautiful jet model Pete.
  6. Gaz - this one is indeed being designed from the ground up! Challenges remain (an understatement). BTW mate - was in Cairns for a few days in March vacationing with my daughter who lives in Sydney. Visited a few places in Queensland along the coast. Chuck - having all kinds of fun! But anxiety as well. One's head needs to stay in the right place for modeling like this. This project is Mt Everest for sure. It is daunting. But I must remind myself at times that I am not working to a deadline. It may not be apparent from my posts, but big challenges are involved, that in addition to the sheer magnitude of it all (it is increasingly clear this is to be another multi-year project). An entirely 3D printed model is not the optimum way to build a model - it comes with warts. Few things are coming easily. Although some parts print up well with no surprises, others come out with deformities or other imperfections. I have documented some of those issues in this thread - for instance remember the problems I had with the prop spinner? So there is hand-wringing involved in the process of creating parts. Other challenges involve the fragility of 3D printed thin gage or otherwise small parts and the risk of breakage. And fit up of 3D printed parts can be a challenge - I have not yet mastered the art of pin size versus hole size and other male/female fit-ups. This resin grows a few percent when curing (holes get smaller and pins get larger for example), so you have to design for it when CAD designing the parts. When I do it right, parts fit together wonderfully; when I don't, it can be a challenge. What I am trying to say is that this model can consume my life if I let it, and cause alot of angst. It can keep me from sleeping if I dwell too much on the next task's challenges. It can make me forget to shampoo my head in the shower because my brain was elsewhere. It can make me ignore chores I am supposed to be doing. Or worse, ignore my wife. You cannot let a hobby do that. Gotta keep priorities straight and I work on that. But also - a TON of gratification when things come together, as much as any model I have made. We all know that feeling. I have decided on the next sub-project. I will install the crown skin panel and perhaps the side windows. That in order to protect those full frames sticking up in the breeze asking to be broken off. Already I have made two repairs to those frames. A pre-requisite to that work is design and printing of a station 200 bulkhead to terminate the aft end of this fuselage assembly - a unique part to my build. The actual airplane has no such animal; instead a light frame at that location. The real forward fuselage ends at station 248 and a bulkhead resides there.....I digress, sorry. You all should see that work next post.
  7. Let's not worry about the main landing gear struts for now. Even if I have to hog them out of brass block, something will get done eventually. It has been about three weeks since I posted any significant progress, and I have been busy advancing the ball. Let me show you; I will be as brief as I can: First, a couple more cockpit items had to be done. The hydraulic hand pump and its several hydraulic lines was first. Here is the pesky little hydraulic hand pump: Designed in Rhino, 3D printed. The wiggly little part in the middle is supposed to be a canvas cover for the piston head. Hmmm... And this time I incorporated the hydraulic line connections into the Rhino part instead of cobbling up Meng nuts and the like. Worked great actually as long as I was careful. Installed onto its (PITA) bracket on the RH side cockpit sidewall, with lines made from thin solder: Also behind the hand pump you see my rendition of two microphone jacks secured by two clips situated in an unused area of a radio equipment bracket. That is accurate enough although in reality I suspect there was only one mic, with the removal of the Detrola and the IFF stuff...... Also new is the O2 hose which is connected to the newly installed O2 regulator that has been sitting around a while now. There is in reality a clip on its free end kind of like a big clothes pin that clips onto a fabric strap hanging off the upper longeron. This hose will be simply lying on the floor.... The hose is .032 solder with .01 solder wrapped around it a gazillion times. In parallel with that work, I Rhino designed and printed off a number of new parts. First the fuselage tank and its bling: In reality, the tank is a rubber bladder and has a bit of sag here and there. But it is well supported by the radio rack above it, and quite hidden as you will see, so I didn't try to do that. Underneath it is the interior green lower radio floor, 3D printed. Printing it was kinda a mistake - it is fragile and I broke pieces off it and had to repair more than once. But I needed all the slots in it (which are for fuselage frames) to line up well with those frames, and the side contours had to be right on, so I wanted the best accuacy I could get. In the end, just cutting it out of thin plastic sheet would have more than sufficed. It is ugly, but hidden. The other parts you see front to back are the 90 deg angled vent line fitting, the fuel quantity gage mounted on a stand pipe, and the larger filler fitting, which in reality attaches via a flex hose to the prominent red filler fitting you see on the side of P-51 fuselages. It was useless to make that part - it cannot be seen at all once the fuelage is done. A bottom view showing my attempt at floor stiffening: A repair is in evidence (the white part). More parts were designed and printed off - the radio rack, radio equipment, and the battery: Wohoo! These parts turned out great! And just like that it was time for a major milestone - LH/RH fuselage join. A big deal as any airplane modeler knows. And this is where the fuselage jig would be called upon again. Only I replaced one of its parts with a 3D printed radio floor locator: It's the unpainted gray one. I had no confidence I could get that spindly flexy radio floor properly installed between the fuselage panels without some sort of locator. There it is. It will accomplish its purpose once, and then will be useless. It was time. Into the jig went the RH fuselage panel, the lower radio floor with fuselage tank (goobered up with lots of 5-minute 2-part epoxy in the right places), and then the LH fuselage panel. The jig's end plates were slid into position securing the longeron ends, and then it sat for hours: If before you did not see the humor in the fuselage jig, you should see it now. This uber-important step was successfully completed. Clearances between the fuselage tank and the fuselage sides and frames are so tight and so hidden that I could just slather gobs of 2-part epoxy between them prior to join and let it all dry that way in the jig. What resulted is a very robust perfectly square forward fuselage assembly. Or at least the aft half is robust. The forward half is a bit flexy and will continue to be until the floor panels and windshield unit are installed. This assembly is the foundation of this entire build. Everything attaches to it. And then came the heater ducts. Recall please that part of the Malcolm Hood modification was relocation of the heater duct outlets, and I sought to duplicate that. For the ducts I used the same approach as with the oxygen hose - a piece of solder wrapped with thin solder - only the heater ducts are a larger diameter (and therefore stiffer). So I had to man handle quite stiff pieces of solder to fit onto fragile structure. In the end it got done, but it's not great and I am thankful the armor plate will cover 75% of it. Pictures: Note how this mock armor plate covers most of the ducts: It may not look that way, but that task was full of anxious moments. One of the nozzle support brackets broke off requiring a micro-surgical repair. And alas - the throttle quadrant handle broke off (a moment of silence please ): It was not if, but when. The repair is do-able, but will be even more fragile than it was. That can wait. Then it was onto the stuff that sits atop the fuselage tank - the radio rack, the radio equip, the battery, and the miscellaneous tank hardware. I don't have much in the way of detail pictures, except this: The fuel quantity gage, with another of Peter Castle's wonderful decals. I am so proud of this detail! And it is very visible on the finished airplane, through the aft LH side window. Finished up: See the green tube that connects the LH and RH canopy drive chains? Not a challenge, but to me very cool - part of the Malcolm hood mod. Ultimately it will hide behind the armor plate almost completely. The battery - it didn't need to be made at all. It is entirely invisible once the fuselage crown panel is on. Boy it must have been a pain to service the battery. To do so, the radio and dynamotor had to be removed first (heavy no doubt), and this was done through one of the removable side windows. Can almost hear the muttering and cussing now. You also will see the sheet metal trays that the radio units and battery sit on. Scratch built with .005 thick plastic or aluminum, and bent up just like real sheet metal parts. Here you get some idea of what is to be visible and what is not: The fuselage jig has served its purpose. The forward fuselage is now a stand alone item that needs no support to keep shape: To me, a very big deal. OK - there are a couple of items that must be added between the radio and the Sta 146 A-frame, and then....and then....not sure yet! I have options. Guess you will see next post. Til next time! Thanks for looking in.
  8. Those rockets!! Very impressive. And so small. John - where do you get your Future? I still have some, but it's a little tired. I cannot find any more.
  9. I just shake my head in amazement. You sir have a way of making your stuff look like a shrink ray was applied to a real aircraft. Bravo.
  10. Wow Paulo! There is a whole world of 3D print products out there, isn't there? I may contact this fellow but it looks like he is very busy. And he has incorporated a metal pin into his Macchi gear. I didn't see the stress testing. I'd love to know what material he is using, he may not want to divulge that! Thanks Tony - this option was bandied about when I was designing the F4U gear some years ago. After my stress test, I abandoned it thinking I had the issue resolved. That Corsair is one heavy model, alot to ask of those LG. I was not enamored with this idea then or now for a number of reasons - one, the metal rod must be near-on perfect shape or else during assembly it will bend (or fracture) the resin "case" instead of the resin bending the rod. Making the rod thinner than the cavity it would reside in would help... Two - I would have to deal with a seam, where right now with the one-piece it is just .....beautiful. One of the best 3D print parts I have ever produced. I show it again: No seam. A weak excuse I guess. Three - alot of work! But you know, there is nothing stopping me from giving it a try. I might surprise myself. Thanks for the suggestion. Exactly Guy. I have the file still (an STL). I could obtain another resin, maybe what Peter is using for the Sea Fury, and use the file as is, or I could send it to Shapeways as is, if they convince me they have the right stuff. Frankly this issue has messed up my feng shui. But discussing these options have done much to settle me down. As OBG said - "Squirrel!". So gotta get on with it. Update very soon.
  11. OMG - lay that thing down!!! It's literally priceless. I know about big models, but this thing is huge. When I did my 1/18 P-38, I could not do anything to it late in the build without it bumping into something. It's a miracle I finished it without breaking off more than I did. Man that thing looks like it's flirting with the sound barrier (in the vertical) just sitting there.
  12. Thanks Tim! However, to break apart the F4U main gear would be near impossible. I will do what I can to gradually push it back into shape, and then unload them in some fashion. Meanwhile - this Sea Fury of Peter's is going to be heavy. Let's see where it goes.
  13. Oh I am wringing my hands now! I have been following Airscale's progress on his 1/18 Hawker Sea Fury - another fully 3D printed effort. A magnificent one too. Well, he did up a beautiful mostly 3D printed landing gear, placed it under normal model dead weight load, and found over some time (only a week or two) that it sagged permanently. This set my hair on fire, because of this: My own lower gear strut made from the same resin Peter was originally using. So, I took a closer look at my 1/18 F4U, whose LG were 3D printed although with a different (but similar I think) resin, and has been completed for nearly a year now. I got this: Last year, at the completion of this model, this was not the case. The tire was square with the ground plane, like it should be. So the resin has sagged some. What to do. A long time ago I used a pot metal aftermarket landing gear on a 1/32 Thundrbolt, and over time the gear sagged very noticeably. I ended up bending them back to shape, and putting a strut under the fuselage between the ground and the fuselage lower surface to unload the gear. Unfortunate, rinky-dink, and ugly. I fear I will have to do the same thing to the Corsair.....but I don't know if I will be successful "bending" the resin back to shape. The question though is what to do about this problem with the P-51B. I love my landing gear so far. The struts came out awesome. But I highly suspect they will not hold up over time. Peter has switched to another resin for the Sea Fury, and I will be following with much concern to see if it is better. If so I will follow suite. Maybe Shapeways can come to the rescue and print me up some struts with some guaranteed stronger stuff - I'll pay, not an issue. Not resolved, but I will work on it in parallel with my current efforts on the forward fuselage.
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