quang

Aha, another ‘been there, done that’ type. May be someone round here can show you how to post an internet link that works. Having said that, welcome to the forum, Cheers, Quang

Brian, what I meant is simply this: no matter what your enquiry is, you won’t get an reply unless somebody is interested in the subject. Otherwise people will consider your question as worthless and devoid of interest. They’re wrong because IMO every question is worth considering.

No no it’s not! I once asked the same question about seat belt colour and material and didn’t get a single reply. Truth is that nobody knows because nobody cares. Until the topic becomes trendy like uh... the number of stacking bumps on a Fokker triplane wing. It’s not only a matter of colour. It’s also about timeline, material, technology, ... just like anything else that keeps you pursuing this hobby.

Hardening but still manageable one hour on Cheers, Q

It took me 15 minutes to do this with only the ICM 1/32 WASP figure as reference. Just to show how the method works. 1- White Milliput balls just prior to be kneaded 2-Milliput thoroughly mixed 3-Rolled into a thin sheet. With plenty of talcum powder 4-Piece of foam representing the ‘casualty’. 5- Milliput sheet cut to shape 6- Fold edges. Edges can be worked for 30minutes while the Mill hardens. Will fully cure overnight after which it can de drilled, sanded and painted as you wish.

Yeah but how do you pull the formed plasticard out of the wood ‘mould’?

Your SKEDCO is basically a flat plastic(?) board curved at certain angles. I’d use a mix of 70% white milliput and 30% Kneadatite/Duro. The DURO adds flexibility to the Milliput and renders it less fragile especially when rolled into a thin sheet. HTH Quang

Hello Doc, try THIS . I’ve been using it since the PB fiasco. Never failed me once. HTH Quang

My earliest recollection of plastic cement was also a tube glue my uncle used on a Monogram half-track he built for me. I don’t know what it was but it burned and left blisters on your skin. Believe me guys, those were dangerous times!

My favorite brainless task is to clean up my desk. I do it every time the mojo loss is getting severe. My ex-wife used to tell me I should lose my mojo more often!

No regrets Max as the Tamiya extra thin works better than Mek-Pak. Better still IMO is the Mr.Cement S (whatever the S, reminds me of the mythic Revell “S” cement) which I discovered recently. Sets instantly, no visible smear and firmer grip than the Tamiya. The smell reminds me strongly of ...the chloroform I used to bond perspex (plexiglass) back in the days. Cheers, Quang

Max, I still had the older brown square bottle untilI moved house last summer. Anyhow I did a quick search on the internet. It appears that the current Mek-Pak is not MEK anymore after George Slater (who started the business) was found unconscious on the floor after a leakage. They changed the formula since.

Old timers may (or may not ) remember that the only liquid polystyrene glue available in Europe in the 1970s was the MEK PAK manufactured by Slater’s of the Plasticard fame. The name says it all.

What a nice, impeccable build, Tom. Attention to details, flawless painting, subtle weathering, all good reasons to justify a revisiting. I’ve always had a soft spot for the Spad. This model could have been finished yesterday, you wouldn’t have seen the difference. Thank you for sharing. Cheers, Quang

Exactly what I felt. Looks like one’s always looking for the precise decals one don’t have. I’m currently doing the ICM Stearman for a quick build. So what colour scheme did I choose? The all-silver 88 option they give in the Roden kit! Go figure