Jump to content

Thunnus

LSP_Members
  • Content Count

    664
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    11

Thunnus last won the day on February 15

Thunnus had the most liked content!

1 Follower

About Thunnus

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Carlsbad, CA

Recent Profile Visitors

390 profile views
  1. Thunnus

    1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-9 "Red 1"

    Thanks so much for the comments! I appreciate it! There is no build log of Red 1 here at LPS so I thought I'd share some highlights of the construction. I had planned on using the Quickboost resin radiator cowling and gun cowling but due to some issues of fit, I decided not to. Instead, I re-shaped the kit radiator cowling by spinning it on a Dremel. The exaggerated valley between the guns on the gun cowling were filled and shaped with Milliput. I used the Aires resin cockpit with HGW harnesses on this one. The kit wing guns and covers were replaced with Quickboost resin replacements and brass tubing for the barrels as the Quickboost barrels were warped. All exterior surfaces were riveted using RB Production's Rivet-R tool. Lots of wiring was added to the engine plug. The Henri Daehne prop blades were painted as wood even though the minor chipping made this all but unnoticeable in the end.
  2. Thunnus

    1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-9 "Red 1"

    Some more pics...
  3. Here is my recently completed 1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-9 build of the JV44 Dora flown by Heinz Sachsenberg known as "Red 1". In addition to the kit parts, I've added the following aftermarket items to the build: 1. Aires 190D-9 resin cockpit set 2. Eduard 190D-9 brass flaps 3. Quickboost 190A gun barrels 4. Eagle Editions 190A/190D-9 Early resin tail wheel 5. Henri Daehne VS111 resin prop 6. HGW 1/32 Luftwaffe seat belts 7. Montex Masks 8. Eagle Cal decals
  4. Thunnus

    Finished... 1/32 Hasegawa Focke Wulf Fw-190A-9

    Great looking late war Focke- Wulf!
  5. Thunnus

    1:18 Hobbyboss AV-8B Harrier

    Awesome build. There is something hypnotically satisfying looking at how large the cockpit/canopy is in your hands.
  6. Thunnus

    1/32 Trumpeter Me 262A-1a "Yellow 3"

    Thanks guys! I'm satisfied with the way that the tail mottle turned out. That Silhouette Portrait cutter is very useful tool! Yes, Alan... I think this point has been established and acknowledged a few posts up. It's a mistake that I'm going to live with because I am not going to dig out those slats at this point in the build. The outer ones MIGHT be removable with minimum damage but not the inner ones and probably not the middle ones. I did some extensive puttying/sanding/re-puttying/gouging/CA glueing/puttying on that starboard inboard slat that.... ummm, I'm just not going to go there. So, I'll chalk it up as an opportunity lost. Let's say Yellow 3 is being prepared for transport as III./KG(J) 54 was reassigned from bomber to fighter duties.
  7. Thunnus

    1/32 Trumpeter Me 262A-1a "Yellow 3"

    Thanks Brian! I've added some additional weathering on the tires. Mostly to dirty up the sidewalls. I also had to re-treat the tread grooves with a dark wash. Every time I tried to lighten the tread surfaces with dry pastels, the grooves got that much lighter. In the end, I dry-brushed a lighter dusty grey color and put wash in the grooves one final time.
  8. Thunnus

    1/32 Trumpeter Me 262A-1a "Yellow 3"

    Ok... back to work on the 262! Based on the information that the nose, from the cannon doors forward, was made of steel and not airframe aluminum, I painted the nose a darker metallic shade. It was a mixture of two Aclad shades: Steel and Airframe Aluminum. I decided to tackle the tail mottling next. Probably a highlight for me since it is one of the defining features of this aircraft. The plan was to paint the darker color first and then use bits of Blue-Tack to represent the mottles. The green was Tamiya Black Green. The Blue-Tack idea wasn't working out. Although I've used it successfully on smaller 1/48 builds such as the Bf109K-4 rudder, it was hard to get the pieces of Blue-Tack to stuck onto the model. I gave that up and decided to try and create custom masks using my Silhouette Portrait cutter. The Experten Decals sheet has beautiful profiles of both sides by Tom Tullis. Those were scanned and imported into AutoCAD. I then traced the mottles and exported them to DXF format for cutting. The masks were placed onto the tail using the profiles as a guide. The tail was then sprayed a lighter than normal shade of RLM76, based on the notes in the Experten instructions. The masks were carefully removed and the hard edged "tadpole" mottling is revealed. There are some soft edges and overspray that need to be corrected but overall, the result is pretty good. I got some dreaded paint lift on the starboard side. Using a piece of Tamiya tape, I removed as much of the compromised paint as I could and then buffed out the edges of the removal with Micromesh. The tail will be masked when I paint the camo so I wanted to be as pro-active as possible on the repair. The masks were re-used to repair the lifted paint areas. Any soft edges or overspray was touched up with an airbrush or by hand. Here is the other side after touch-ups. Compare the mottles on the model with the profile... fairly spot-on. I'm happy! I need a kick in the pants to start the next stage, which is to establish the puttied/painted seams. I still have not decided HOW I'm going to do this... brush paint? Airbrush?
  9. Thunnus

    1/32 Trumpeter Me 262A-1a "Yellow 3"

    Thanks for that clarification! I can't go back and undo the work on the slats without destroying the slat pieces. But I'll remember this for future builds... live and learn!
  10. Thunnus

    1/32 Trumpeter Me 262A-1a "Yellow 3"

    And hence the difference in coloration visible in the photos of WNr. 111711? I did not know that but noticed the difference in color. Yes, I think I will account for that but maybe with greys instead of metallics.
  11. Thunnus

    1/32 Trumpeter Me 262A-1a "Yellow 3"

    Thanks guys! Landing gear will be down. I chose to pose the leading edge slats in the closed position because (a) it looks cleaner, IMO and (b) it was simpler to do than posing them dropped. It was at a point where I wanted to move this build along and I made a number of decisions that simplified things like posing the canopy closed and the slats closed. Not all 262's on the ground had their slats dropped did they? Didn't appear to be so based on the photos I've been looking at. There were a lot of things bothering me about trying to black-base this 262 AND incorporate hairspray chipping in certain areas AND establish the putty/anti-corrosive paint under the camo colors. It just wasn't meshing in my head. The change to silver clarifies things for me since it will approximate the base conditions of the actual aircraft. I will apply grey paint (either by paint brush or airbrush) to mimic the example shown by WNr. 111711. This will serve as the base for the RLM83/76 camo to come. The only thing I have not accounted for is the tonal variation that would be provided by either the black-base or black mottle approach. I think it can be accomplished in a different way but first things first... getting the grey primer on.
  12. Thunnus

    1/32 Trumpeter Me 262A-1a "Yellow 3"

    Thanks guys! This will no longer be a black-base build. I've done and sprayed the whole thing silver. Decanted Tamiya AS-12, thinned with Tamiya Lacquer thinner and some Mr Leveling thinner to help even out the coat. The plan now is to establish the putty lines and then apply hairspray over the wing roots to facilitate chipping afterwards. Not sure if I'll add some mottling to give the camo some tonal variation... maybe some color other than black.
  13. Thunnus

    1/32 Trumpeter Me 262A-1a "Yellow 3"

    Thanks for the comments everyone! Thank you Vincent! You bring up a very good point and it was something that I thought about but decided against representing. Two primary reasons. Firstly, it's hard to make a model without surface detail look realistic. I'm sure there are ways but they are beyond me. Secondly... I know it was the intention of the Luftwaffe to eliminate the surface imperfections on the 262 using putty but I'm doubtful as to how successful they were. And since Yellow 3 was a well used aircraft, I am thinking that a model with visible rivets and panel lines may not be entirely inaccurate.
  14. Thunnus

    RCAF SPITFIRES.. Mk XIVe..duel build.

    I love the Griffon Spitfires! The cockpit work is amazing!
  15. Thunnus

    "White 22" 1./KG(J)6 Erla 109G-10

    The G-10 is turning out beautifully! I love the spiral!
×