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Thunnus last won the day on April 9

Thunnus had the most liked content!


About Thunnus

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    Carlsbad, CA

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  1. Thanks guys! Have not settled on the color of the wheel hubs just yet so a re-paint might be around the corner. Photos of 740 aren't very clear but the hubs look dark or dirty. I'm contemplating either dark blue or a metallic color. In the meantime, some progress to report. The main landing gear struts are comprised of halves that trap a metal rod in between to give the legs strength. A nice touch but since the rod doesn't travel the entire length of the strut, I sense a potential for breakage. Gotta be careful with these! Once the legs are glued together and cleaned up, the shiny parts are given a coat of Alclad Chrome over gloss black. The cover over the oil coolers really limits the view. The trailing edge of the cover is thinned down. Just another example of how good Tamiya's engineering/fit is on this kit. Tamiya gives you the option of posing the flaps up or down and you have use different parts depending on which option you pick. I've chosen to put the flaps up since most of the photos I've seen of parked Corsairs have the flaps up. These pieces on the trailing edges of the wing are for the flaps up option. When the parts are glued into place, it's almost impossible to tell that there are separate pieces involved... very remarkable. I've cobbled together the inner wing pieces to get a feel for what the wheel bays look like. I'm going to add a little bit of wiring to replicate some of the hydraulic lines so I need to know where the wires are going to go and where they're going to terminate. Just for fun, I've slid the outer wings onto the spars sticking out from the inner wing. Fit is very good and I may even elect to keep the wings removable since it will make transport that much easier.
  2. I'm always a sucker for the aftermarket stuff, especially when it's straight out of the package. Sometimes it loses its luster a bit when trouble arises but hopefully these additions will be trouble-free for you. Good to see the comparison between the Eduard cockpit stuff and what I used on my kit, including the HGW harnesses. Remember... there is some stitching detail on the HGW fabric harnesses what will come out after a wash is applied. Curious to see the HGW wet transfers. I'm wondering how different they are in application compared to decals? I used the Barracuda cockpit stencil set for mine and even though they weren't the easiest to apply, they really upped the level of detail in the cockpit. The two types of cowl flaps. Not an expert, but I think some early F4U's had cowl flaps completely around the engine while later Corsairs omitted the flaps along the top of the fuselage. I'm guessing it had to do with improving forward visibility.
  3. Very cool! Corsairs are such cool birds so bring the F4U-1D on, my friend! I'm not a Corsair expert and have been relying on other builds and ongoing help from LSP members to keep my build going in the right direction. Knowing what I know about the Tamiya kit, one word of caution would be regarding the Eduard cowling flaps and how they mate with the Grey Matter Engine bay set. Since the fit of the Vector resin cowl flaps was not as precise as the kit flaps, I've relied on butt joints between the engine cowling parts to the forward nose ring and the rear cowl flaps to ensure good fit. I may end up with all of the engine cowls glued shut, which is ok with me. I don't have experience with the Eduard flaps nor the Grey Matter set so maybe they may work well but I advise lots of careful dry-fitting before committing any parts to glue!
  4. I love that drop handle, Vincent! I can see the love/passion in the sculpting of that one piece.
  5. Yes, the oil coolers as well as the entire model are a testament to the improvements in today's models. The oil cooler grills are from the Tamiya kit. I think the R&B grills are a finer pitch than the kit's but I'm more than satisfied with what the kit provides.
  6. I've scraped off the offending "N" from the tires. And then shot the sidewalls with another coat of brown/black, covering the white lettering. The spoked wheels haven't been glued on yet... who knows if there is another round of unexpected changes to come. I've started work on the complicated inner wing assembly. The oil coolers are first. These come with nice photoetched grills, front and back. It's hard to figure out what will and what won't be seen. It looks like the backsides of the coolers will be visible but I think this opening gets covered up at least partially.
  7. I dunno... I was thinking Goodyear N. Maybe it's modern day copyright issues? Maybe I'll just paint over the "N". Or paint over the letters all together.
  8. Thanks guys! Thanks for the tips! I've tried to really examine the cowling area to see how I could minimize gaps AND have the engine panels removable but I don't think it will be possible due to the lack of rigidity of the resin cowl flap piece. The most positive attachment point for the cowl flaps are the four small tabs on the rear of engine so I secured that connection first. I then glued the bottom engine cover into place making sure that that the cover is snug against the cowling flaps. And finally, I glued the nose ring into place. The top engine cover isn't a snug fit at this point but I'll wait until later to see if I need to glue it into place or I can have it as a removable panel. I've started painting the Barracuda resin wheels.
  9. Another point... I'm happy that AK (and other companies) are so active in bringing modeling-specific products to the marketplace. I never got the impression that they were claiming to have invented these things but simply appreciated the passion and effort to provide modelers with things they could use. Shows that the modeling industry is alive and well. I applaud the provision of new products in this hobby... choice is good!
  10. Thanks Ray! Please call me John! Trying to get back on track after a busy week. I'm trying to figure out the engine cowling area. Right now I've just dry-fit the cowling around the engine after gluing the Vector resin cowling flaps to the back of the engine. Because of flex of the resin, it's difficult to get a tight joint. Although Tamiya intended to have the engine cowling removable, I may have to glue them in to order to avoid the gaps. Here's the view of the engine from the outside. Do you notice the now-corrected Pratt & Whitney logo that I had erroneously installed upside down? It's been corrected due to the generosity of another LSP modeler who graciously sent me some replacement decals. Thank you Damian! During the week, when I had some periods of available time, I painted the True Details resin parachute.
  11. I'm actually interested in these. I like using watercolor pencils and have been getting by with a cheapo children's set that I found while cleaning out my daughters' old toys. Been looking to get another set but general artist's color palettes are a little different than what modelers are likely to use. A set of 24 Faber-Castell Watercolors sells for $36 at Amazon with more than half the shades probably not suitable for my use. A set of 36 Prismacolor Water Soluble pencils sells for $39 but again you're getting colors that are for general art use. The AK pencils retail for about $1 each and come in sets of modeler-specific applications. What's not to like?
  12. Nice work but hey... where did the rivets go??
  13. I didn't take your comment in a negative way, Alfonso so don't worry bout that! I really appreciate your input and am thankful for your insightful comments since I'm such a Corsair newb! Keep em coming!
  14. Alfonso... thanks for additional clarification regarding the variations between the two turtle decks. To look at it another way: the kit will most likely be displayed with the canopy closed. However, if someone wants to take a closer look into the cockpit, the canopy can be pulled off or placed temporarily in the open position.
  15. Thank you! Thanks, Alfonso! I actually performed some dry-fitting tests eariler to answer this question. If all goes well, the canopy will remain unattached so that it can be posed open or closed. The turtle deck option for the closed canopy provided the best option to do this. I could not get the canopy fully closed with the open canopy turtle deck. Open canopy using the closed turtle deck. Compare with the open canopy using the open turtle deck... the difference isn't too bad right?
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