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Thunnus

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Thunnus last won the day on February 22

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About Thunnus

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    Carlsbad, CA

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  1. I replaced the plastic cannon barrels with brass tubing. Some details were added to the landing retraction arms. The retraction arms after painting. The Synthetic Ordnance works landing gear legs have been painted. I added copper wiring for brake lines, held in place by small pieces of brass tubing. The stencils on the legs are from AIMS.
  2. Thank you! I have to say that the molding by Special Hobby on the small details is impressive clean and sharp. So it is a surprise to see a noticeable lack of sharpness on the rivets and panel lines of the larger parts. Ha! All of the shrinking is courtesy of Special Hobby. I simply put together the components that SH has provided. Careful strokes with a fine brush, changing the orientation of the part in hand with each direction to make sure you can get a smooth stroke. It's more a matter of gently "pushing" the paint to edges of
  3. Yeah, it must've been very difficult to get to that cannon. Luckily, I don't have to worry about those practical details and simply stuffed it in there. Can't really see it but at least it is occupying some dead space in that area. Thanks! I really do recommend cleaning up the rivets with sanding after using a rivet tool... it makes a big difference. The dark wash will be cleaned off as much as possible prior to painting and hopefully make their re-appearance later on in the build at the weathering stage although they will never be as clear as they are now on b
  4. Nice work! I was going to say... do my eyes deceive me or did the control stick change to a spade grip in the last photo. Until I noticed it was from Andy! I'll have to look up Andy's build to see what is up with that!
  5. Great work Brian and such a drastic change from the Big Cat. I do like the rigging inside the cockpit... looks appropriately refined!
  6. First layers of paint are nicely smooth and shiny! I wish all Tamiya paints in the flat range were glossy or at least satin like Mr Hobby Aqueous or AK RC.
  7. Thanks Troy! Each riveting session begins with the drawing of lines on plastic using scale drawings. The last major component to receive the riveting treatment is the wing bottom. A look at the surface texture right after the rivet wheel has tramped its way across the wing surface. Running my fingers across the raised bumps gives me a 70's vibe when raised rivets were common. The wings are sanded with fine sandpaper and then given a brown pastel wash to check the work. With both the wing tops and bottoms riv
  8. Thank you! Just wrapping up the panel now... I've added some weathering to the instrument panel: light dry-brushing of silver on the edges and brown wash on the green cross bar. The compass has been painted and decaled. Topped off with a drop of clear UV epoxy to simulate the glass element. Here is the completed instrument panel.
  9. Pretty easy to make that mistake since he rearmost bulkhead has a raised edge on one side... one might assume that this detail side faces outward but should not. I finally received my cockpit color (Mr Hobby Aircraft Gray Green #364) so I thought I would tackle the instrument panel. It is provided in three parts and I've decided to keep the parts separate during the painting phase. Painted black has a way of sucking all of the detail from an area so I wanted to try and void that on the black instrument panel. The panel itself was painted Tamiya Nato Black, which is actually a bl
  10. Wow Chuck... that is a great lineup image of the various Alclad shades. Need to print and post on my wall! Sorry about bum steer regarding the LP-9... just passing along info that that I seen on another modeling website. I guess there is no magic bullet clear for these High Shine finishes.
  11. Thanks guys! I probably won't go "next level" on those spring/bungee cords by replacing them with spring facsimiles but I'll try and paint them at least. I played around with a few things on the Tempest build. The resin wheels were cut from their casting blocks, cleaned up and leveled on the bottom. They are represented as weighted with a flat spot and slight bulge around the contact area. The kit tires are also weighted but the resin versions feature noticeably more detail on the sidewalls and hub. I wanted to see if the tail gear bay
  12. Not sure Antonio but if some information pops up, I'd be glad to make that adjustment. Brown 4 will be a future subject for me! I've got the kit on the shelf and have already done an analysis just to test my theory about the curved "4" in that pic. Just some more minor work on the D-13 as we are back to work on Monday. Instead of just drilling two holes to mount the boarding ladder, I excavated the opening to show the recess that would be there when the ladder is extended.
  13. I forged ahead and riveted the upper wings. The Dora has a lot of riveting on these wings so the drawing of the lines took quite a bit of time. The lines are drawn in pencil using a clear, flexible ruler. Using a rivet wheel (Galaxy Tools 1.00mm), the rivets are laid down row by row. The rivet tool punches small holes into the plastic but also creates a small mound of raised plastic around each hole. Some modelers stop here with the rivet process but I take an extra step to get rid of the mounds. Using a fine grade o
  14. Thanks guys! I guess you can but I use a thin enough brass sheet that I simply smash-mold the brass onto the form using my fingers. Use me fingernails to burnish the edges. Here's a little tip for anyone that is building a 1/32 Hasegawa 190 kit. There is a small antenna that is attached to the bottom of the fuselage. You can see that the kit piece is just too clunky and should be replaced with something finer. The antenna is molded with a small circular base that fits into an appropriate sized hole in the fuselage. We can take advanta
  15. I've been referring to your build and really appreciate the step by step process you outlined. Details didn't register at the time of initial viewing but now that I am getting familiar with the kit, I can see and recognize many of the issues that you describe. There are probably details that I am going to spend time on that will not see the light of day but I do those things because they spark an interest. So I may do some wiring just for fun... it seems easier in a way to incorporate wiring into the tubular structure of the cockpit. I'm in no rush and will take this one very slow.
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