Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Thunnus last won the day on January 27

Thunnus had the most liked content!

About Thunnus

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Carlsbad, CA

Recent Profile Visitors

1,420 profile views
  1. Hey Troy! There is metal from the end of the attachment tab through to the end of the wheel axle. Based on what I was told, the "core" is a continuous piece of piano wire strung through 2 pieces of stainless steel tubing with resin cast around that core. I'm sure the mystery maker can clarify the fabrication process further in due time.
  2. Sorry for being unclear! I was sent prototype landing gear replacements from a nice chap who is interested in offering these to the public. He wanted some input and gave me the ok to share them on my builds on the condition that he be kept anonymous for the time being while he worked out the kinks in his production. I used these legs first on my Hasegawa Bf109K-4 build... And he has graciously sent me more legs including a set for my Revell Bf109G-6/AS build and this Z-M Ta152H build. I think he's preparing to launch his products VERY SOON. I wouldn't be surprised if LSP members didn't find something out by the end of this week. That's all I can say for now!
  3. Hate to keep tempting everyone with these prototype landing gear but I've received a new set for the Z-M Ta152H kit. Easier to clean/paint than the metal legs and will be much stronger than the plastic legs. Also, no painting required for the shiny oleo section so one less thing to worry about. Looks like another winner!
  4. Thanks for the comments guys! I'm personally leaning toward Carganico's Mickey Mouse scheme but haven't made a firm decision yet. Just a few things to report on... as mentioned earlier, I needed to saw off a portion of the cockpit tub casting block to accommodate the wing spars, which incidentally form the front wall of the landing gear wells. I've been trying to dial in a more exact fit of the resin cockpit and I think it would help if these raised diagonal ridges on the insides of the fuselage were removed. They somewhat help in positioning the resin cockpit but they also push in the sidewalls. With those adjustments, the cockpit is re-positioned and verified to accommodate the wing spars. I'm happy with the Aires cockpit so far but not so much with the Barracuda small bulge wing inserts. Dimensionally, they seem to be a decent fit, although I had to remove a few locating pins to do it. But they are flatter in profile than the kit wings and given the small amount of contact area between the inner and outer wing panels, it may be a tough to get a solid join. And I need/desire a stronger than normal join so I can do this... And I've broken off a small piece from one of the wing bottoms to boot.
  5. Turned out wonderfully, Tom! I really like how the nose cone can be removed to reveal the cannon.
  6. Thanks for the comments everyone! The engine will most likely be covered up. I'm not a fan of cowling open poses and I don't think I'll have the option of removable panels. That's one of the reasons why I'm photo-documenting the engines at this stage! Initial rough fit of engine to fuselage has indicated some minor alignment issues. Without constant pressure (or glue), the four rear attachment points of the engine bearers will not stay seated... the engine is skewed upwards. I'm pretty sure glue will take of it and the engine cowling panels will also force alignment but I'm taking a closer look at it right now.
  7. Thanks guys! I just laid down a layer of salt fading on the Corsair. Salt and water have a habit of getting into cracks and turning frosty white after drying so I'm giving the model some time to dry out before I move on.
  8. Beautiful, Brian, just beautiful! The details in the cockpit, ala the painting and weathering are fantastic. The engines look wonderful too! Great build!
  9. Thanks guys! I've added the engine supports... Zoukei-Mura has provided a very nice engine out of the box.
  10. Here is the Jumo 213E-1 engine. Nothing has been added... just kit parts. Even though it will end up being completely covered, I thought it would be shame not to at least paint it.
  11. Thanks guys! Finally got around to doing some sponge chipping and sealed all of the weathering to this point with a flat coat.
  12. Oh man... I feel your pain. The one thing that makes me nervous about using paint masks is the potential of pulling up paint. I also elect not to spray my camo colors over a primer so I try to take extra care to make sure the surface is clean before I paint. I wipe down the model with a clean cloth slightly dampened with Windex and then use rubber gloves when handling the model during the painting stage. And I allow the paint to cure thoroughly before applying the masks... usually a full day. All the markings look ok except the port upper wing? I noticed that only the lighter blue over the fabric areas lifted? If the paint coat is not stable, it may be difficult to get rid of the "edge" by sanding. It's drastic but if the sanding doesn't work, I've purposefully lifted off the unstable paint by tape. You may be able to lift off most/all of the lighter blue area without affecting the darker blue and re-doing that area.
  13. After fitting the Barracuda spinner onto the AMUR Reaver cowling, I thought I'd pack the build back up and concentrate on the Corsair. But John1's comment about the Aires resin cockpit made me very curious. Without diving into the details of the resin set, I thought I'd at least check the fit of the main components: cockpit tub + the two sidewalls. I removed the sidewalls from their casting blocks, making sure to retain the mounting tabs on the bottom edge. Based on my experience with the Aires G-10 cockpit, I left the humongous casting black on the tub untouched for now. There are some gaps at the joints but overall the fit of the three components was relatively positive. There are no rock solid attachment points between the cockpit tub and insides of the fuselage so I'll have to make final placement relative to other components, such as the rear cockpit sill. Still, this should give me an idea of the kind of adjustments I'll need to make in order to make the resin fit. To my pleasant surprise and just like my experience with the G-10 cockpit, the Aires pit seems to fit ok even with the casting block of the tub in place. The gap in the fuselage framing above the forward cockpit section is easily closed with light finger pressure. There would be no reason why the AMUR Reaver cowling would NOT fit over this but I wanted to verify it with my own eyes. I recognize that glued parts have much less give than taped components so this is not a final result but I'm not encountering any significant fit issues between the resin cockpit parts, kit fuselage and AMUR Reaver cowling. I even slipped on the canopy for good measure. If my G-10 experiences hold true with this build, I'll have some conflict between the casting block and the wing spar but that should be an easy hack job with the results hidden from view.
  14. Thanks for all of the comments! Establishing the preliminary fit of the AMUR Reaver cowling to the kit fuselage, I prepared the Barracuda resin spinner, added a prop shaft using a piece of plastic rod and mounted it to the cowling to check the fit. It looks ok at this point but things can change as parts are glued into place permanently. Since I was at this stage, I wanted to check the fit of the windscreen and canopy as well. The windscreen actually slides UNDER the cowling piece so the little bulges on the fuselage fairing in front of the windshield need to be trimmed away. The exterior fuselage components seem to be lining up fairly well. Next I'll have to see how the Aires resin cockpit factors into the fit equation.
  • Create New...