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Thunnus

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Thunnus last won the day on May 28

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About Thunnus

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    Carlsbad, CA

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  1. Thanks Reuben! I love the Dora and plan to do a few more in the future!
  2. Thank you Paul! Not a big tail Dora but I do have a couple of those big tail kits in my stash and am planning to build one (probably Brown 4) in the future. Thank you Iain! I appreciate the comments!
  3. Thanks guys! I thought you guys would appreciate these color schemes! These will be fished and I'm pretty sure they'll produce but getting it on video will be the challenging part! I'll try and post the lures in action the next time I go bass fishing, which will have to wait until July since my June is so booked with family activities. I love the idea of kill markings in the form of fish!
  4. Hey Guys! Still too busy to jump back into my model builds but I'll get back to those soon. Fishing season has started and that usually takes a bite into my available time as well. Since I've not gotten to the exterior colors of either the Corsair or the K-4 build, I thought I'd play around with my fishing lures and paint a couple up using WW2 schemes. First, I did a US Navy tri-color scheme using the AK Real Colors paints. I looked around in my decal spares box and found the red mouth from the Eduard 1/48 Hellcat that looked like it would fit. With the second, I did a scheme that could be found on a 109K-4, RLM75/83 on the top with the late war RLM76 variation on the bottom. The lures will be coated with epoxy before the hooks are put on. Not sure how the bass will like em but I'll report back after I put them into action.
  5. Recommendations based on having two high school/college-aged children in the house. Bananagrams is a fun and simplified spin on Scrabble. Coup is fun role-playing card game. Games are very simple and short.
  6. Thank you for the comments! To Damian... Thank you for the additional details regarding the antenna mast. It makes sense that there would be an airfoil shape instead of the square cross-section represented by the kit part. I'll see what I can do about that! And the absence of the external bulge on the main gear doors should be correctable. I''ll have to refer to the kit parts to confirm. To Kais... Thank you for the comment about the canopy. Based on my understanding of Airfixer's comments on my G-10 build, the overlap between the rear edge of the canopy and the fuselage was a feature of the early Galland hood that were retrofitted to existing 109G airframes. And not a feature of the later G-10 and K-4 models? I was not planning on trying to replicate this overlap. June is a very busy month for me, fishing and family-wise so my work on Weisse 8 and the Corsair will be limited. I DID get my camera situation resolved however. I just received a replacement for the balky Canon S100... This Canon Powershot S110 was purchased used from EBay for less than $100. A preliminary test was conducted to see if the focusing and exposure compensation features were working correctly. The camera seems to work a-ok. As you can see, I've started to clean up the Henri Daehne resin spinner.
  7. The lipped edged around the main wheel wells have been masked off and sprayed Insignia White. I've also added some black staining to the wood block on the rear wheel well wall, although it is hard to see in the pics. Since the wheel wells are complete, I want to see if how the landing gear fits...
  8. I've pretty much taken care of the rivets on the horizontal stabilizers. It took a couple of rounds of filling though. When the Mr Surfacer failed to fill the holes, I resorted to Black CA glue, which I probably should've started with. The loop antenna on fuselage spine is a good replacement for replacement since the plastic loop is so thick. I used my trusty piece of Coke can to fashion a new loop. The FuG whip antenna and the pitot tube were similarly upgraded.
  9. Thanks! Correct on the weathering of the landing gear. I also added some brownish stains very sparingly along various joints and junctions using an AK Enamel Wash (Engine Oil, I think). For the tires, I threw a bit of everything. First, the the tires were sprayed dark brown/grey. I sprayed the contact surfaces a lighter tan/brown color. I then played around with applying some dry pastels to the wear surfaces but I always seemed to be wiping off the pastels whenever I touched the tires. So after sealing with a flat coat, I used a wet pastel wash to further stain the outer rim of the tires.
  10. Understood. I can either remove the metal plate on the stabs (which is actually raised), scribe the missing panel lines and apply rivets OR remove the rivets. I'm choosing to go with the latter and portray the wooden tail unit.
  11. It helps tremendously, Damian! Thank you for this information. Honestly, I was in auto-pilot mode when I was preparing the stabilizer parts for riveting. I was seeing the depiction of the metal panel leading edge and wondering why certain panel lines were missing but it wasn't registering in my brain until I read your post. Ahhh... it's WOOD... that's why! Unfortunately, I've laid down the rivets on one of the stabs already but have started to fill them.
  12. Right now, I am using a buggy Canon S100, which is a compact digital camera. A few days ago, it developed a couple of problems and now has trouble focusing and I have to manually adjust my exposure compensation on every shot. I've reset the camera and installed new firmware but the problem persists so I've already ordered a replacement... Canon S110. These are older cameras so I'm picking them up used on EBay for less than $100. I like this particular line of cameras because it allows me to shoot in RAW. All of my photos are shot in RAW and processed in Lightroom. I have three desk lamps (two on articulated arms) to help direct light. I also have a portable light box that I use for some of the shots... Thank you so much for this information! Hmmm... I can see that the upper right corner of the canvas panel being in a lighter non-blue color. I'll have to think about whether I want to make any more changes to the color of these panels.
  13. Just a few odds and ends to re-orient myself with the build. The access panel on the bottom of the fuselage is molded too softly so I am going to fill it with CA glue and re-scribe it. Added some bits of plastic and brass to make a bracket for the drop tank strap. The horizontal stabilizers have been given a coat of Mr Surfacer 1200 and marked with a pencil for riveting. And I've received the MDC cockpit decals from Vincent K! Thanks so much for your generous contribution to this build! Can you tell me where the blue SAUERSSTOFF decal (7) and the red bolt markings (8) go? I think I know where the other markings belong.
  14. Thanks for the comments! Especially the insight about the canvas in wheel well sidewalls. Couldn't respond or update since I was on a trip to Texas over the weekend. Before I left for my trip, I had glued the top and the bottom of the center wings together. There were some tiny gaps around the cooler intakes that I filled with White Milliput. Per the comments by Alfonso, the canvas side panels in the wheel wells were painted in a couple different shades of tan/buff and the square block on the rear wall has been painted brown.
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