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Thunnus last won the day on September 6

Thunnus had the most liked content!

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  1. Thanks Kent! I appreciate it! Thank you Mark! Thanks for the suggestion, Woody! The untreated edge of the clear part will reflect light and make the joint stand out. I thought about painting these edges with the cockpit color to address this like you have suggested but was too lazy to actually do it. Since the fit of the clear part to the frame was pretty good with fairly consistent contact along the joint, I elected to carefully seep Tamiya Extra Thin into the joint, which served to darken that contact side of the clear part, although not with 100% consistency. Not perfect but acceptable, IMO. I still hold that this arrangement is unnecessary and that a single piece clear part with the frame molded around the canopy yields a much cleaner result with less effort.
  2. Painting looks great, Gaz! I love the sawtooth camo on the wings. Another detail that you could consider on your drop tank is to remove that solid triangle of plastic and add the strap (ignore the red arrow)...
  3. Here is the two-part canopy. The clear part, dipped in Future to enhance clarity, has been glued onto the canopy frame by carefully seeping Tamiya Extra Thin into the seam. I'd much rather have this molded as a single clear piece like almost any other manufacturer would have done. Why reinvent the wheel?
  4. Great work Kevin! I've wiped and re-painted my share of spinner spirals. Since it is such a visible focal point, it pays to make sure it looks just right!
  5. You could also try Erla canopy from the Revell G-6 or G-10 kits. G-10 Erla Clear Sprue G-6 Clear Sprue
  6. Hey Bill! Those depression are molded in and are meant to accommodate the actual latches which are supplied as PE parts. Thanks Jeff! I thought it looked pretty good too until... LOL! OMG... funny how normal it looked to me even when reviewing the photos of it. Yes, it is OBVIOUSLY and EMBARRASSINGLY BACKWARDS! Thank you for pointing this out! Another LSP member was also kind enough to notify me via PM. Thank you thank you! Thanks Gaz! Hopefully, the gun sight looks more... ahem... "functional" now that it has been turned around. I also replaced the stressed armored panel.
  7. A bit more work on the Komet... instead of the kit-supplied gunsight or the one included in the Aires resin cockpit, I chose to use a Quickboost Revi-16 gunsight. The optical glass is cut from a sheet of clear packaging with the edges of the front element painted in transparent blue/green. The mounting base from the clear kit part was grafted onto the bottom of the resin gunsight. There are visible stress marks on the transparent armored glass... I have an extra transparent sprue courtesy of Meng customer service so I'll probably utilize it to fix this issue. I've decided to glue in the side windows at this point and then mask them off for painting. I REALLY don't like Meng's choice to mold the windows and canopy WITHOUT the surrounding frame. It makes for a tricky and most likely noticeable glue joint. And as previously mentioned, the three-part set of panels along the top spine were glued together instead of trying to glue them in separately later. Hopefully this strategy will net a neater result but it's hard to stay at this dry-fitting stage.
  8. Thank you Kent! I appreciate the positive feedback! Thank you very much! Thanks and welcome, Paolo! I hope you enjoyed building the Revell kit as much as I did! I'm glad you found this site. There are a lot of talented builders here and LSP has been a very valuable resource for me, as well as a great community to learn and grow. I'm currently building the Meng Me163B Komet, which you can find on this forum. Thank you Alan!
  9. Thanks guys! Yellow 2 has a DF loop antenna on the fuselage spine as shown in the photo... So I fashioned a base out of a spare plastic part and a loop out of a thin strip cut from an aluminum soda can. Seeing how nicely these three panels fit together, I am tempted to glue them together now and mount them as one piece later! After the rear fuselage halves were attached, I addressed all of the joints using White Milliput. Milliput is great for finishing long glue seams. Prior to curing it is water-soluble so you can use water to smooth and sculpt the stuff. I used a damp cloth gently run along the seam to remove all the excess and leaving a thin bead of Milliput in the joint. I am going to spend some time cleaning up the joints further, especially the vertical seam between the forward and rear fuselage.
  10. Thanks Matt! The gun bay doors were a tight fit and I was a bit overzealous in pushing them into place, causing a lip along that outboard edge. So I built that area up with a little putty. Thank you! The Gas Patch kit looks VERY nice! I've been pleasantly surprised by this kit in terms of details and fit. Reminds me a bit of the Z-M approach of adding interior details but I've had a much easier go of things fitting together than my experience with the Z-M Ta-152H build. Thanks for stopping by, Jim! Thanks Brian! I was ALMOST going to go down the same route as you with the Anhanger/Schlepper but I couldn't find an economically-viable way of purchasing those Profimodeler extras. Following your build, I was glad that I didn't... it looked very fiddly and that would be bad for a mojo-reclamation project like this! Looking at the resin wheels from DEF Models, I noticed that the wheel axles are a magnitude thicker than the holes in the wheels. I've had bad experiences trying to enlarge existing holes so I thought I'd go a different route this time. I cut off the thick axles and replaced them with smaller diameter sections of brass tubing. The tail wheel was similarly modified. The mounting pins molded into each side of the tail strut were cut off and a hole drilled through to accept a new axle made of brass tube. This will allow me to paint the strut and wheel separately. Moving onto the wing/fuselage halves... I've decided to glue in the flaps, which come as part of the kit-supplied brass fret. As I've mentioned before, this model is going to be built closed up with no open panels. The kit is designed to have a removable tail section to show off the rocket motor and the kit's construction order is dictated by that feature. However, my deviation gives me flexibility in how I order the build. I've already elected to glue the wings into the fuselage halves to ensure the best possible fit. To this end, I've decided to go ahead and glue in the rear fuselage halves as well. The ability to apply finger pressure from both the outside and inside makes getting a nice tight fit much easier. A plastic tab and a short piece of stretched sprue are fused into place on the interior side to strengthen the bond. I'm going to let this fully dry before I attempt to glue the joints on the upper side. Without glue, you can see the resultant gaps on the upper side. These can be easily closed with light finger pressure. Same deal with the other side.
  11. Here is the completed rocket motor in all of its unpainted glory. The last added pieces are two of those long, delicate hydraulic lines, which were impressively molded in plastic and dropped into place without any drama. With the rocket motor complete, I conducted a dry fit of the major internal components: resin cockpit, fuel tank and motor to see how they fit within the fuselage halves and tail assembly. So far, so good! Wing dihedral seems to check out ok. Preliminary view of the painted cockpit from the outside.
  12. Thank you so much Gaz! I appreciate it! Thanks Tom! We'll have to connect again via Zoom soon! Thank you very much! Thanks Antonio! Yes, the scheme should be very fun to paint! Thanks Troy! It's always good fishing, regardless of what I catch or don't catch! I'm sure you agree with the simple joy of being outdoors. Yes, it is a very interesting aircraft and I am enjoying learning stuff as I assemble this little but lethal aircraft. Thanks Matt! It's good to be back sharing with this wonderful community! Thank you Greg! Yes, I will use Mr Hobby Aqueous for detail painting for certain shades. But since the detail painting is usually primary colors, I mostly use Tamiya acrylics. Neither are particularly good for brush painting and I use the bottle lid as my palette and put a drop of iso alcohol as a thinner/retardant when brush painting. Thanks! I too am looking forward to what this thing looks like at the end. It's always a little different than what I envision when I start a project. Thanks Michael! I, uhhh, haven't really thought that far ahead. I'm assuming with the fairly positive fit of the wings to the fuselage that the correct wing dihedral will result but I guess we'll have to see. It looks ok now but until those fuselage halves are secured with glue with all of those internal components sandwiched in between, its just blind faith for now. Thanks Bill! Always appreciate your positive input! I've assembled some of the internal components including the big fuel tank behind the cockpit and the rocket motor assembly. The little rocket motor is impressively detailed right out of the box. This includes some very fine hydraulic lines, separately molded, which I rarely see on an injection kit. The rocket motor is attached to the fuel tank, which in turn butts up against the rear wall of the cockpit tub. I'm assuming that I'll need all of these in place to ensure that the motor nozzle is in the correct place, which will be only visible part of these recently assembled parts. And as such, the only thing I'll be finishing and painting. Speaking of the nozzle... I thought that the business end of the motor had such a thick trailing edge that it needed to be replaced. So I fashioned a new one out of a strip of brass sheet. I think this looks better but I realize that the real nozzle had small vents that I was not able to replicate. I think Eduard's exterior set of the Meng 163 kit features a replacement with those vents.
  13. On my D-9 builds, I replaced the kit guns/boots with a set of Quickboost resin guns, which have the metal boots and are a drop-in fit for the Hasegawa 190 kit.
  14. Great to see another Wurger build! Thanks for the comparison between the Aires and kit cockpit! Out of all of the different ways that instrument panels are presented, I actually prefer the PE/acetate sandwich approach. I'm curious about the mounts for the wing cannons. The D-9 kit, which I think provides the base plastic for the A-8 release, portrays the mounts as some sort of leather boot and may not be accurate.
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