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Thunnus last won the day on July 3

Thunnus had the most liked content!

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    Carlsbad, CA

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  1. Sweet! I am assuming that the data stencils on the gear covers are masks but the ones on the gear legs are decals?
  2. Wunderbar! I love the Fw190 too so I am looking forward to seeing your unique take on a model that I'm very familiar with. I wouldn't worry too much about doing a subject that's already been done. I debated the same thing when I started my Black 1. We all have unique approaches and I'm sure your build will have things that make it stand out from the rest. The Hasegawa D-9 is almost 20 years old but is still a good kit without any major issues and I'm sure you'll enjoy building it. My D-9 build with the Aires cockpit was not posted here but I'll send you a link if you are interested.
  3. Thank you so much for those kind words! Appreciate the feedback!
  4. Thank you very much! Thank you! The engine panels are not designed to be placed over the engine and will not sit flush without modifications to the engine and/or the panels. Thank you very much, Craig!
  5. Thanks Matt! And thanks for the heads up on the windscreen. I think it is just shifted to the right. It's hard to keep everything aligned on these dry-fits because I'm not using anything except gravity and friction to hold most parts in place. But I'll double check!
  6. Thanks Kevin! Thanks Matt! I does make it look more like a purposeful machine. Now I have to work up the motivation to rivet the rest of the aircraft! Thanks for checking in Dennis! Appreciate it! Thanks Chris! Thank you Alex! Thank you! Thanks Peter... almost embarrassed to have you step into my humble build! Thank you so much for the comment! After fixing and riveting the nose, I decided to thin the edge of the baffles above the exhausts. Ignore the elongated shapes of the rivets... that's just the result of the sanding process. Time to start closing up the cockpit. In order to orient the oxygen hose and mask, I have glued the starboard sidewall onto the cockpit floor first. The front and rear bulkheads were put into place temporarily as a fitting template for the sidewall. The oxygen hose has been roughly cut to length and posed to fit the mask, which will be placed on the right edge of the seat. I've added straps to the mask made of strips of aluminum foil and the mask was spot-glued to the right edge of the seat. The rear bulkhead with the seat was then glued into place onto the cockpit floor. It took some wriggling to get the oxygen hose connected to the mask. Once that was done, I glued the front bulkhead/instrument panel into place. The Aires cockpit fits very well together with consistent contact around all of the edges. I simply held each part in place with my fingers and seeped thin CA glue into the joints. The port sidewall is glued in last. The cockpit is complete! Now I want to check the fit of the resin cockpit into the fuselage. I can now confirm that the Aires resin cockpit for this kit is a drop-in fit without any need for adjustments to the fuselage parts. The forward gun deck of the resin cockpit DOES need to be removed in order for it to work with the Wolfpack resin Tei nose. The Wolfpack resin nose is then slipped into place, again confirming the previous dry-fit assessments of a good fit. I have not decided whether to pose the canopy open or closed. Here is a check of the fit of the open canopy parts.
  7. OMG... that underside! And the engine work with magnets! Spectacular... I don't understand how you do this!!!
  8. Fantastic fabrication, as usual, Peter! It's fascinating to witness the ability to transform basic shapes into complex mechanisms. Truly a gift endowed to just a few.
  9. Thank Kevin! One of the drawbacks to working on simultaneous projects, especially when they are in similar stages. I really should've done the nose surgery at the very beginning of the build but like you said, I luckily avoided the snookery. Thanks! Happy it worked out this time. Thanks Mark! Thanks Dennis! Hope to see your build soon! Thank you Lutz! No loss since the front deck serves no purpose on this build and would not be visible. Thanks Matt! Looks like the nose should fit without any major issues, which is a good thing. Yup! Happy and relieved to be able to move on! Thanks Mike! Thank you! Last time, I was able to confirm that the resin nose would fit onto the surgically altered fuselage pretty well. I spent some more time cleaning up the resin nose including tidying up this circular hatch and mismatched panel line on the bottom. After the adjustments were made, I sprayed the entire nose with Mr Primer Surfacer 1000. After some deliberation, I've decided to apply rivets onto this model. Using drawings from an older, Japanese-language publication, I sketched the rivet lines onto the resin nose with a soft (4B) leaded pencil. After the lines are sketched, a rotary rivet tool (Galaxy Tools) is used to puncture rows of small holes into the resin nose to simulate rivets. Unlike plastic, the riveting process on the primered resin does not create as big a mound of material around each hole but I still recommend sanding afterwards. After sanding, I applied a temporary pastel wash to highlight the riveting and other corrective work on the nose. Some of the nose bits like the spinner, the exhausts, the supercharger intake and gun barrels were added temporarily for these photos. I'm happy with the decision to rivet the Ki-61. I think the nose looks pretty bada$$ now.
  10. I love these types of builds! Wonderful technique and very thorough description of the work involved. Great stuff!
  11. The wood on the wing roots looks really good... oils, decals or wood grain masks? I'm glad you're finding the riveting to be meditation. It can be a bit of anger management therapy for me, at times!
  12. Wonderfully detailed work on the consoles, Roger! The added details really make a difference and I'm sure they will be used as references for other modelers wishing to make their 262 cockpit more accurate. Can't wait to see more of the cockpit including the throttles!
  13. Thank you so much, John! Always nice to find you already have the paint you thought you needed. Lots of thinners work with Tamiya acrylics. 90% isopropyl alcohol, Tamiya lacquer thinner and Mr Leveling Thinner have all been used with similar results. I use mixes between 1:1 or 2:1 thinner to paint ratios.
  14. The color I used for the ZC areas was Tamiya XF-4 Yellow Green, straight out of the bottle.
  15. Yeah, I'll have my GoPro strapped on. Reports have fishing being slow right now so it might be one of those "grind it out" kind of days. Hopefully, I'll get enough footage for my youtube channel.
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