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Thunnus

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Thunnus last won the day on July 31

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About Thunnus

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    Carlsbad, CA

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  1. If there are no obstructions sticking out from the cockpit opening, you can use the canopy parts to cut masks...
  2. Wonderful work as always, Chuck! And the descriptions that go along with the great photos... priceless!
  3. Beautiful work on your Zero, Alex! I love the alternative approach to the recessed detail PLW and it looks like you are getting a great effect there. I've always wondered on these light-colored Zeros... did visible paint chipping occur like it did with the green painted Japanese aircraft?
  4. You're very welcome Lutz! It's a great technique that imparts some very good effects. The management of the salt residue afterwards can be an issue, especially when applying it to a large area. The salt tends to build up in crevices and can create a white bloom of salt crystals over time as it dries and can be triggered by a flat coat as well. But it's not an issue when doing it on smaller objects such as prop blades and spinners since you can wash the entire part in water if necessary.
  5. I love the cleanliness of your PE work, Kirby! Great to see the enhancements that the additional PE is providing to the cockpit. I really like the David Union tools too... especially the router.
  6. Thanks for the input guys! Hi Lutz... I didn't document the process for this particular part of the build but I can use an example from other builds to illustrate how I do the salt fade. First, you spread a thin layer of water over the surface that you want to apply the effect upon. To avoid beading of the water, a flat surface works much better than a glossy one. While the surface is still wet, sprinkle salt crystals on the area. The water will hold the majority of the salt crystals in place and when the water dries, the remaining salt crystal
  7. I am inching along on this build. The small window on the fuselage was glued into place after I placed some rivets on the clear piece. It took two tries to get the hairspray chipping on the prop blades right. I wanted very subtle chipping, mainly on the leading edge of the blades. I also did some hairspray chipping on the spinner and backplate. This was a bit of small test to see what could possibly done on the main fuselage. As for the dark green color, I decided NOT to use the Mr Hobby Kawanishi Green that I specifically ordered for this build. Instead, for
  8. It's been a long time since my last update. I'm still around but as usual, during the summer months my mind/attention starts drifting towards fishing. My favorite lake is closed to boat fishing due to the pandemic so I'm not actually out fishing as much as I'd like but I'm still doing the beach fishing thing, playing around with my tackle and doing solo trips to a small private pond. The wheel wells for the Shiden Kai have been painted and glued into place. Prior to this, I took the trouble of scrubbing the wings to try and remove as much of the wash and sanding dust from the pa
  9. It's great to see the paint go onto your Shiden Kai, Dennis! I like the reverse process that you are using for the insignias... it'll be quite the reveal when it comes to take off all of those masks!
  10. Thanks guys! The riveting work is almost done. Just the upper wings left to do. I've been using the drawings in the Aero Detail book as my riveting guide and luckily, they are scaled at 1/48. So it was a pretty easy thing to scan and print them to 1/32 scale. Which makes copying the rivet lines onto the model a little bit easier. After the lines have been drawn in pencil... After the rivets have been applied and the pencil lines cleaned off... And finally the wings after they've been sanded and a given a brown pastel wash. Anot
  11. Thanks for checking in! Finally have an update to post. The cockpit has been glued together... And the cockpit has been glued into the fuselage. The rear cockpit sill is a photoetch part from the Brengun set. Playing around with the engine placed on the fuselage. I've glued the cowl flaps onto the engine cowling and have painted the interior of the cowling black. Finally worked up the nerve to tackle the wing bottom rivet job. The Shiden Kai has a LOT of rivets so just drawing the rivet guide lines takes time.
  12. Another beautiful Shiden Kai, Miloslav! The finish, as always is impeccable! I especially like the subtle tonal variation on the upper wings... very nice! Thank you so much for your comments and messages regarding the specifics of the Shiden Kai. Mine won't be nearly as nice or as accurate as yours but I do enjoy participating in this boom of Nakajima Kawanishi N1K2 builds!
  13. Right on Kirby! This one should be fun to watch! As I'm sure you know, there is some fantastic build information in WIP that you can use for reference.
  14. Kirby, you did a wonderful job in finishing this vintage Matchbox kit with the latest painting and weathering techniques! It can hold its own against any modern kit!
  15. The G-6/AS looks great! Even though the view into the radio compartment is obscured by shadow, I like the the details around the opening. I riveted my G-6/AS tailplanes as well. Hasegawa's treatment of the tail planes on it's G/K kits are a little bit different than Revell's and appears to represent the wood tailplanes (assuming that the represented panels on the leading edge were metal plates). So I didn't apply rivets on those. The Revell G-6 kit seems to represent the earlier type of tail plane. They may be faint but I did see photographic evidence of riv
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