Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Thunnus last won the day on November 23

Thunnus had the most liked content!

About Thunnus

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Carlsbad, CA

Recent Profile Visitors

7,282 profile views
  1. Thanks everyone! Yeah, I started noticing those differences as soon as I preparing the post. No stars and bars on the wing bottom, different invasion stripe configuration on the landing gear doors, etc. Because of the lack of guns, I started thinking it might be a restoration or display. But I left the photo because the contrast between the top and bottom colors looked to be very similar. Back to the model... here is the engine temporarily housed in the cowling, which is a pretty positive fit due to the exact shape of the front frame around the engine. The engine is attached to the firewall at those two D-shaped holes and nothing else. The firewall can be solidly glued to the fuselage. Without the rear engine assembly, you can see that the there is a possibility of securing the rear of the back cylinder base to the firewall... maybe with magnets? While I think about that, I fashioned up a small oil sump and scavenge pipe using a bit of styrene and copper wire. The oil sump is nestled under the bottom front cylinder head. Making sure that the oil sump does not interfere with the front frame. I'm using lead wire for the ignition wiring cables. There are two additional wiring connections at the back of each distributor, hence the gap in the harness spacing. The harness and the distributors are from Vector and obviously designed to be used together. I noticed that the closed cowling flaps (top) are missing a panel line. I also added a little triangular shim to the edge of the cowl flaps so that they would sit flush. Notice the very faint panel lines. I've already started to re-scribe these. There is just enough of a depression to guide my scriber along without any guide tape... living dangerously! The Curtis Electric prop has been cleaned up. I thinned the blades down and filled in the depressions that were molded onto the cuffs.
  2. I added Bob Smith Industries (BSI) IC-2000 Black Rubberized to my collection of CA glues a couple of years ago. For me, the black color and reduced hardness of the black CA make it my preferred material for filling panel lines. It's easier to sand but hard enough that you can feather it nicely to the plastic without any visible edges under paint. The black color marks the repair visually. The stuff works fine for bonding parts together too, in my experience, except the color becomes a possible negative. Does not replace my normal thin CA for applications where capillary action is needed for a discrete joints aka folded PE parts.
  3. I just wanted to touch upon Troy's mention of "Miss Behave" being painted in RAF colors of Dark Green and Sky. I know it is difficult to ascertain color information from black and white photographs but looking at photos of "Miss Behave", the contrast between the upper and lower colors is apparent. The lower color seems to be significantly lighter than Neutral Grey. Ignoring the possibility that these might be two different aircraft (2nd photo... a restoration?) and assuming that the undersides were painted in a lighter color like RAF Sky, the contrast between the upper and lower colors of "Eileen" is much different and more in line with OD/Neutral Grey. I think OD/Neutral Grey is the correct choice for this aircraft.
  4. Very nice subject, Ian! I was interested in seeing the new tool Hasegawa Zero built.
  5. Looking like a proper Gustav now, Jay! I love the anchor for the canopy tether... great detail!
  6. Thank you! I use magnifiers when working and using those really helped refine my technique. I find that if I can make it look ok under extreme magnification, it's going to look good to the naked eye. Good photographs accomplish the same thing and I often notice little errors by reviewing my work photographically. Frustrated at the delay of couple of shipments including the Yahu panel. There are a multitude of other things that I can proceed with without working on the cockpit so I found one of those today. I noticed that this port was not molded completely. The shape was kind of weird too, as the horizontal lines followed the curvature of the forward fuselage. I don't have any parallelogram templates so the new one will have to be square. First, I fill in the old panel lines with black CA glue. Shot with some CA activator, it is ready to sand. The template of the panel is placed on the model and secured in place with tape. For me, this is the most important step. I learned from experience that holding the template with just your fingers is a recipe for a shoddy scribing job. Using a sewing needle chucked into a pin vise, I scribe the new panel. Lightly at first and then with a little more pressure as the groove deepens. I'm going through both plastic and the harder CA glue so it is important to keep constant pressure on the needle as it goes around the template. If the needle gets caught on something, don't force it through. Instead, trace around in the opposite direction to see if you can get through that spot smoothly. The horizontal line that you see within the new panel is a pencil guide mark that I used to guide re-placement of the template after the first attempt. Once you are able to make complete circuits around the panel in both directions, the template can be removed. The new panel is cleaned up by tracing the panel with needle, giving it a light sanding and using a stiff paint brush to remove the sanding burrs and dust. Lightly running Tamiya Extra Thin cement into the panel lines can also help to smooth them out. With all of the visual interference from the old panel lines, it's hard to see what I've done so I spray a light coat of primer to check my work. After the primer is dry, I can replace the circular fasteners with a beading tool.
  7. Mine Too! I have a THING for Kurt Tank's long nose version of the 190! Thanks Jay! I appreciate it! Thanks Tristan! Always looking for ways to improve my weathering. Can you point to any examples of this? Thank you Chuck! Always appreciate comments from you! Thank you Maru! I always wanted to add Brown 4 to my list of completed Doras! Thank you so much! My favorite aircraft!
  8. Thanks guys! I'll do a side-by-side comparison between the Eduard and Yahu panels when Yahu arrives. Thanks Matt. No drop shadow.... it looks like an error in the registration of the color print. I think there is supposed to be a uniform light grey bezel around each instrument but the pitch went low and away.
  9. Thanks guys! Most of the stuff that I'm doing here has been learned/copied/imitated from what I've gleaned looking at other builds (including yours Bill!). If, in turn, my build helps others then I'm happy to have contributed to this endless cycle of learning. A bit of detail work on my day off... the reflector glass is actually supposed to be oval in shape but I can't cut an oval that small so it's going to be circular instead. Here is what the gun sight looks like in place and covered with a coat of primer (Mr Primer Surfacer 1000). I added a couple of wires coming out of the mounting bracket. I added some detail to the otherwise plain sides of the Bendix-Scintilla magneto. Here is a look at the Eduard photoetch instrument panel. On full display is the noticeable texture of the painted surface... it's quite distracting, in my opinion. Each instrument has what appears to be a drop of clear gloss to simulate glass although ideally it should be a flat level surface, not curved. Trying out a new clear flat finish... The front panel was sprayed with the clear flat and this dramatically diminishes the texture effect. The two instruments hanging off the bottom of the backing panel were also sprayed with the clear flat and you can see the difference that the flat coat makes. I ALWAYS spray my Eduard pre-painted parts with a flat coat! The assembled Eduard instrument panel looks pretty good but we'll have to compare it to the Yahu panel, which is enroute.
  10. Thanks John! I have a spare Type II gun sight that I can use... see below! A little more work on the P-47 to report. In preparation of adding some of the Eduard photoetch, the raised details on the cockpit floor need to be cut off. The box, I believe, is the fuel selector and the other is some sort of lever with an actuating rod/wire running to the back of the cockpit. The fuel selector looks like it is mounted on the side of the circuit panel. So I scratched something up using brass sheet and a section of plastic tubing. The cut areas are covered with PE pieces. The lever is also from the PE set but I've not yet fabricated the actuating rod/wire. I like the detail of Eduard's version of the rear cockpit bulkhead. But the headrest on a spacer arrangement doesn't seem to line up with the photos I've been looking at. So I decided to use the Eduard bulkhead without the headrest portion. Next, I folded up the gun sight mount. It's actually upside down in the photo! Instead of the kit part, I used a spare Type II RAF gunsight from Barracuda.
  11. Thanks Maru! Before I move over to the cockpit, I wanted to check those mid-fuselage vents to see how the supercharger assembly affects the view into the opening. As you can see, the opening just drops off into the fuselage interior and ideally, should be blanked off to block this view. The supercharger assembly includes ducting from those vents as separate pieces. Installing these without the rest of the supercharger ducting looks like the best way to block this area off from view. Ok, let's move to the cockpit for a looksee. The Eduard PE interior set FINALLY came, along with some Airscale cockpit placards and stencils, which I hope will come in handy. There are two frets supplied: one in color including the instrument panel, circuit panel and throttle quadrant faces. The unpainted fret has a host of other details including a seat, rear armor panel and overlays for the canopy cut-out section behind the headrest. As always, the components of the PE set will be analyzed before using. Tiny fiddly details that will be hidden from view may not be used, like details at the base of the seat frame. The instrument panel looks nice but I have a Yahu panel coming in. I'll probably assemble the Eduard IP as a comparison to the Yahu. I wanted to check to see if the cockpit would be held into place without the supercharger structure. A good-fitting four-wall tub structure makes dry-fitting very easy. Two pegs on each fuselage side supports the cockpit. So the supercharger installation is not necessary to install the cockpit. While I was at it, I added some of the other cockpit parts. Overall, I judge the cockpit on this kit to be very good. Lots of nicely molded, 3D-relief in the form of boxes and panels. For example, the large circuit panel on the port side has really nice knob and switch details. The Eduard part adds color and fine markings that I could not achieve with paint but will lose the 3D effect. The seat looks like a nice upgrade without any drawbacks. It is thinner and has some added detail that the kit seat lacks.
  12. Thanks guys! The issues that are popping up are what I consider fairly minor and I actually enjoy fixing these little issues. Nothing too tedious... yet. Cobbling the engine components continues. Since the cylinder heads need an ignition wire connection, I thought I'd use these 1/32 spark plug connections from ANYZ. I'm only using these on the front row since the back row will be almost invisible from the front. In fact, the little pieces of brass tubing that I placed onto the back row cylinders have since been pulled out because of interference from the central baffle plate that is located between the two rows. Along with the tear drop distributors, I also have a spare ignition harness. Notice the different spacing on the spare (left). Here is a dry fit of most of the engine components. The rear semi-circular frame was too flimsy to dry-fit. This is back of the engine but it cannot be seen once mounted. That front frame and encircles the engine fits flush into the front of the engine cowling. Because of its shape, correct orientation of the engine is maintained, giving another positive mounting point for the engine. However, at least during this stage of dry-fitting, the only thing connecting the engine/cowling to the fuselage are those two exhaust duct tabs.
  13. The other question I have is the engine. The instructions show the engine to be connected to the bottom of the engine firewall via the exhaust ducting! Sounds very flimsy to me. The only way to explore this is to start assembling the engine, which I am ready to do. The two cylinder head banks are glued together first. The fronts are plain, missing the connection for the ignition wiring in the center of each cylinder head. The backs have holes for the waste ducting. A problem surfaced right away trying to fit the waste ducts onto the back of the rear cylinder... it would not seat all the way. The locating tabs did not align with the open slots. It would've been easier just to cut the tabs off but for whatever reason, I chose to enlarge the slots. Problem solved, I assembled the two-part exhaust ducts and placed them onto the engine while the glue was still soft. Those two half-moon tabs at the ends are what is supposed to hold the engine in place! I let the glue dry with the ducts in the correct position. After the glue dries, the exhaust ducts can be removed to deal with the nasty seam.
  14. Thank you very much! I'll use the tear drop distributors then! There's lots of stuff to work on before I get to the cockpit so I'm just going to forge ahead instead of twiddling my thumbs and waiting for packages to arrive. There are two additional panels that need to be installed on the wing bottoms. I've glued these in. I'm holding off one the gun/ammo covers on the upper wings just in case I need to access that area to line up the gun barrels. There are a couple of questions about this kit that I wanted to start investigating. One of them is the internal supercharger ducting. Trumpeter includes this even though it is very nearly invisible when complete with no provisions for open panel. At a minimum, I think I need to install the two wing spar parts. These will ensure the correct dihedral for the wings and the rear spar acts as the rear wall for the landing gear wells. There are tabs on the fuselage interior that appear to correspond to the cockpit bottom... I"ll verify that later. The fuselage halves fit together pretty well with just the spars in place. And the wings slide into place very well with support and alignment from the spars. You can see that the overhang of the wing bottom over the wheel wells might make detailing/painting a challenge.
  • Create New...