Jump to content

Thunnus

LSP_Members
  • Posts

    2,187
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    137

Thunnus last won the day on December 6 2021

Thunnus had the most liked content!

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Carlsbad, CA

Recent Profile Visitors

5,247 profile views
  1. Thanks Kevin! Happy and honored for the opportunity to present this build in e-book format! I hope that my guide is useful to modelers building this very nice kit from Revell!
  2. I also built the Z-M Ta152H kit with the beautiful resin prop by Henri Daehne... I'd be happy to send you a scan of the instructions. Will send you a PM...
  3. Late to the thread just having saw Dune this past weekend. Liked it but also have a soft spot for the Lynch's 80's version. But I did want to comment on the ornithopter... I'm not sure if the Dune filmmakers were aware of this previous version or not but something similar was dreamed up by Hayao Miyazaki back in 1986...
  4. I use a wheel-type rivet tool of which there are a few modeling-specific products available. I can vouch for both the RB Rivet-R and Galaxy Tools version. Both produce very similar results. One thing that I prefer about the Galaxy Tool version is that the big wheel and small wheel produce the exact same spacing. The RB Rivet-R and Rivet-R Mini produce slightly different spacings.
  5. Sorry for the late reply but I was in San Francisco over the weekend helping my daughter to move. Yes, I've used quite an assortment of aftermarket parts on my Hasegawa Dora builds including: MDC/Aires/Eagle Editions resin cockpits Eduard brass flaps Eduard interior and exterior brass upgrades Quickboost A-series wing guns Aires resin wheel wells Eagle Editions resin tail wheel Henri Daehne resin prop and spinner HGW seatbelts Synthetic Ordnance Works composite landing gear legs I think that the fuselage gun bulges and radiator cowling need to be re-shaped and I chose to modify the kit parts rather than using the resin upgrades since I experienced fit issues with the resin (tried both the Eagle Editions and Quickboost versions of both parts). Similar with the D-13 conversion... I re-shaped the cowling myself instead of using the Grey Matter or Real Models D-13 resin conversions.
  6. Hi Jim, Thanks for asking! My bass fishing season just wrapped up but there have been lots of little engagements here and there that have distracted me from the modeling bench. I've been checking out LSP pretty faithfully and that usually starts fueling my modeling fire. It looks like I have some free time coming up this weekend so hopefully I can make some more progress on the Komet!
  7. I found the Barracuda spinner to be a good fit for the Hasegawa G-14 kit... But my first choice would be Henri Daehne's spinners, which I used on my K-4 build...
  8. Excellent rendition of Red 10 and very COOL features that you've added like the closeable cowlings and interior lighting! I see a lot of commonality between your build and mine, especially in the finish. Great job!
  9. Thanks Kent! I appreciate it! Thank you Mark! Thanks for the suggestion, Woody! The untreated edge of the clear part will reflect light and make the joint stand out. I thought about painting these edges with the cockpit color to address this like you have suggested but was too lazy to actually do it. Since the fit of the clear part to the frame was pretty good with fairly consistent contact along the joint, I elected to carefully seep Tamiya Extra Thin into the joint, which served to darken that contact side of the clear part, although not with 100% consistency. Not perfect but acceptable, IMO. I still hold that this arrangement is unnecessary and that a single piece clear part with the frame molded around the canopy yields a much cleaner result with less effort.
  10. Painting looks great, Gaz! I love the sawtooth camo on the wings. Another detail that you could consider on your drop tank is to remove that solid triangle of plastic and add the strap (ignore the red arrow)...
  11. Here is the two-part canopy. The clear part, dipped in Future to enhance clarity, has been glued onto the canopy frame by carefully seeping Tamiya Extra Thin into the seam. I'd much rather have this molded as a single clear piece like almost any other manufacturer would have done. Why reinvent the wheel?
  12. Great work Kevin! I've wiped and re-painted my share of spinner spirals. Since it is such a visible focal point, it pays to make sure it looks just right!
  13. You could also try Erla canopy from the Revell G-6 or G-10 kits. G-10 Erla Clear Sprue G-6 Clear Sprue
  14. Hey Bill! Those depression are molded in and are meant to accommodate the actual latches which are supplied as PE parts. Thanks Jeff! I thought it looked pretty good too until... LOL! OMG... funny how normal it looked to me even when reviewing the photos of it. Yes, it is OBVIOUSLY and EMBARRASSINGLY BACKWARDS! Thank you for pointing this out! Another LSP member was also kind enough to notify me via PM. Thank you thank you! Thanks Gaz! Hopefully, the gun sight looks more... ahem... "functional" now that it has been turned around. I also replaced the stressed armored panel.
×
×
  • Create New...