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Ferry

..back again with a bit more done... first the top canopy section was made as a plug and the boiling water process used to form PETG around it - here it is pretty much fully wrapping the mould.. ..and with framing added inside & out.. ..Steve at Model Monkey 3D printed the correct gunsight for me from the Don Lopez cockpit photo and it turned out brilliantly - added a few details and good to go.. ..after painting, detailing & making the mount.. ..mounted in position on the coaming.. ..as this was now ready, I stopped working on the canopy and got on with fixing the coaming & windshield so I could start fairing in the sections & skin the fuselage - here the process has started at the front, and now P38 filler added at the back.. ..I forgot to take pics of the shaping work, so next up is one of the fuselage skins at the rear.. I made up a template sheet as it has to fit on three edges, and once I had that I could translate the drawing rivet & hatch positions to the sheet.. ..the finished sheet, with a bit of tube fitted at the rear for the mounting where I think a jig fits the fuselage for balancing & gun alignment etc.. ..and the sheet fitted with the hatches & upper skin.. ..as the airframe is now virtually complete in shape terms after 18 months, I couldn't resist an assembly shot to see how things were shaping up.. ..thats it for now TTFN Peter

Tamiya 1/32 kit HGW/Real Model Wet transfer set 233906 Barracuda Wheels All colours MRP

Here are the pics of the finished Kingfisher. A really enjoyable build.

my last built , enjoy : voila voila

One photo before going to the club's show. I didn't have time to do any panel line enhancement or weathering, and I still have some decals to add. I was planning on keeping the weathering to a minimum, so this is close to final.

The 32075 as being part of the 'Camel' family makes total sense. Or maybe we finally get this magnificent, long overdue, aeroplane... One can hope, right? Cheers: Kent

You don’t need one! Save your money and spend it on other things. I had one a long time ago and found that I was better off without it and that it just got in the way.

And a bit more old rope! Some primer on the He-162 Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flick Blanks on the ejection ports under Me-262A Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Making the hinge pin brackets for the struts. Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr That's them done then! Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr And on with the primer on the 262, I can already see some bits that need work. Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr A redesign of the Walter boosters, I found a pile of photos and rather than having you lot ripping the model apart, we decided to go ahead and correct them. So there! Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Next job this evening is more smoothing with some Micro Mesh. So that's me gone. Regards, Bruce Crosby

After fitting the last things I'm finished. I've learned a lot this build and did some things for the first time. I'm very happy with the result and wonder why there are so little WIP's of this beauty. My next build is totally different and will not be a plane in 1:32. I want to build a BR 52 locomotive with 2 gondola's and in the gondola's a V1 and a launch ramp. The pics are in the RFI section. Thanks for watching and the comments.

In case you want to know what it could look like in Hergé/Tintin colours. Mind you, this is 1:48 scale.

Yeah don't get the wooden ones. Oddly they're more expensive than the acrylics and they're a pain to punch out and assemble. Also , get yourself a cheap amazon cake decorating stand to put it on as it helps to spin things around when painting (sometimes) . ...and have fun

How bout a Hanriot HD2?

So I finally had a few minutes of down time... First off, I added a few more bits to the cockpit sidewalls and then shot everything with dullcoate. All in all, I'm pretty happy with the way things look. Last steps will be to do some weathering, via dry brushing and pastels to further tone things down (especially some of those placards) and then add the final small bits like throttle handle and a few fragile levers. After that, I'll call these parts done. I think I'll also add a black wash to the tan signal flare holder. "50 shades of black" Next - I also dull-coated the seat. Still going to add some more dark-ish wash to the seat cushion. Finally, the instrument panel. I originally planned on using the Barracuda IP. It's a mix of resin and PE. After a great deal of thought, I passed on using pretty much all of it. Although the PE avoids the "tunnel effect" of the Tamiya IP (using the kit parts as instructed results in the instrument decals being set extremely deep into the panel face), I wasn't happy with look of the Barracuda PE. They provide each instrument bezel as a separate PE part and once assembled, it just looked rough. As I compromise, I decided to modify the Tamiya IP. The kit part requires that you glue a clear plastic piece to the back of the plastic IP. To the back of the clear part, you add a decal with the instrument faces. The end result is that the instrument dials are set very far back. What I did was to glue the Barracuda printed instrument faces directly to the back of the Tamiya instrument panel. I'll then sandwich it with the modified clear backing part. This serves three purposes. First off , the dial faces now are nowhere near as deep. Secondly, by using the Barracuda dials, they are much more detailed than the crude Tamiya decal. Lastly, the Barracuda dials are just black print on clear film. You need to paint behind them to add color to the dials and numerals. This is a good thing. The Tamiya decals (and pretty much every other aftermarket product like Eduard, etc) are white on a black base. Only problem is that pretty much all US instruments used dials and numerals coated in a yellowish-green phosphorescent paint. Refer to the picture of an original F-51 cockpit posted in the beginning of this log. I mixed up some yellow, green and white to replicate this. I then shot the panel with a gloss black with a few drops of white added and added the necessary Barracuda decals. Can't say enough about these, they really rock! After that, I dullcoated the panel and lightly dry-brushed with a medium grey. I then picked out some of the switches in various colors. Finally, I attached the instrument film with some Future so it wouldn't obscure the dial faces. Sorry for the long-winded description, I hope some of you find it helpful. Here's the semi-complete IP. I still need to add the last few dials, some switches and figure out if I'm going to use more Future for each of the IP faces, or just leave them as is. Note that a few of the markings got skewed when I applied them over raised switches. Not much you can do about it but once the whole cockpit is assembled, they shouldn't be that noticeable. Thanks for looking, Happy Friday guys.

A Miles Magister is one of those kits that I’ve always hoped for in our scale but never expected to see, so if this materialises I’ll be a very happy bunny! Makes me a little more hopeful that we could see a Percival Proctor......who knows?!

Getting near the finish line! I've replaced the LORAN antenna wire, then added the HF antenna, both using nylon/polyester thread from Sew-ology. The two FM antennas are music wire, size 0.015. Good thing the kit comes with eight spoilers even though you'll never see more than four at a time. I did a bad job painting the first set, so instead of re-doing them I just started over with the next four. I had ordered a metal pitot tube, then realized that if I'm going to cover it I can just use the kit's plastic part. The cover is Tamiya tape painted olive drab, Experts-Choice remove before flight flag, and white thread. The navigation lights were difficult to install - lots of sanding and shaving on both the lights and the wing. I painted the lights the appropriate color then realized the inner portion (nearest the wing) should probably be painted white (i.e. wing color). The spinners on this 23rd TASS airplane are decorated with a huge number of small yellow darts, as found in the AOA decal set. Of the twelve fiddly little decals eleven survived the application process. I had to cut out some replacement darts using some spare yellow decal. The cargo door is installed, along with the telescoping gust lock that attaches to the left boom. The laser/TV designator system is painted and installed in the aft cockpit. The gust lock strap is attached to the pilot's stick. The five steps are installed, but they don't look good. I should print up some new ones for my next Bronco kit. The large retractable step is cut from the kit part. I drilled a hole in the fuselage and inserted the step, then used some card stock to make the hinge/fairing bit just forward of the step. The kit comes with two each of the rearmost windows. One is plain and the other has a horizontal line molded in. I believe the molded line is not supposed to be there - it represents a large bracket / wiring harness loom that some airplanes had inside the window at that position.

I've started my first WNW model - the Sopwith Pup. So far, the parts have fit together properly and there's been no drama. The kit has options for 80 hp Gnome or 100 hp Gnome versions. I built both engines and decided to go with one of the 80 hp versions - 'Baby Mine' as on the boxart. Both engines had noticeable gaps between the front and back halves of the cylinders. I probably should have sanded both halves flat before gluing them together, but the cowling hides most of the engine anyway. 80 hp Gnome engine. The photos have over emphasized the colors. They actually look much more subdued and realistic. I have scratchbuilt the IP, thinking I could do better than the kit part. Yea, I know the airspeed indicator is upside down. Funny how you don't notice those things until its too late. Other interior bits: Thanks for looking. Comments are welcome.

Or has it slipped in under the radar? I'm not pulling the trigger on this one as I have the other one. Zoukei-Mura Ki-45 Nick (Super Wing Series No. 14)

Careful work with needle files Charlie. And welcome to our friendly Forum!

I almost always try to avoid at all costs using decals for large codes and medium sized fuse and tail codes, as invariably the carrier between them shows up with a demarcation line. Weathering also seems to highlight the sometimes odd shaped carrier edges. If at all possible, I always like to use paint masks for codes, as they are easily weathered with some 1200 - 4000 wet/dry. I used this technique on my Flanker roundels, but works the same way for codes.

The sight of the canon is indeed intentionally left in brass color. I think it is a nice detail and brakes de color of the gun.

Spot on!! Thats one kit worth getting hold of I think!! Simon

There is a lot of information on the A6M on the Aviation of Japan website which is run by Nick Millman an expert on all things Japanese. On the same website you can get a PDF on Painting the early Zero Sen, Nick has also published a guide to colour and markings for Combat Colours (Scale Aircraft Modelling). There is also an MMP book by Artur Juszczak, and as mentioned above the Aero Detail book, which is a great resource but is out of print and can be expensive and hard to find. Cheers Dennis

Difficult question! As far as I know, there are not many "modeller" books written in English about the Zero and this is even worse for other Japanese planes. Here's what is jumping to my mind: 1.The most Modelling-oriented book in English has been published by AJ Press (volume 6). 2. the Aero detail is still an excellent reference for walkaround and plans. 3. Mushroom published a smaller but comparable book that also had color profiles. Out of that short list, you either have books published in English but with historical content (such as Robert Mikesh books) or fantastic books for the modeller BUT published in Japanese such as the Model Art or Green Arrow books. Hth Thierry

Well, what if this is not a Le Rhone 9J but rather an Oberusel Ur.II? Then, please, please, pretty please, let this be a Fokker D.VIII! Radu

Same reason they have all the other fictitious unnecessary detail.

Hi Alain, I fully appreciate your comment and It was a tough decision as this kit gives so many options, but when I first envisaged this build it was with all the engine panels off and because it’s a naval fighter I had to fold the wings to expose the internal structure and folding mechanism. When you are next to the model the folded wings aren’t actually as restrictive as the photos suggest, but I suppose the best bit is that it gives me an excuse to build another with the wings unfolded. Cheers. Matt

I have the Vertigo purchased from UMM here: http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_162&products_id=7045 Took a bit of assembly (I used glue for acrylic sheet) but that wasnt bad and it works well for biplanes

The Hobby Zone one is nice. Zee Jig is Up by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr Zee Jig is Up by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr Albatros in Jig by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr

FuB1 2F blind landing system I believe? I could be wrong though. I was wondering why the He-219 part was clear! Thank you!

It's not MikroMir's first LSP: MikroMir And we hope not the last one either... They have interesting things in the other scales on the list. Juraj

Hi all! The nose gear well assembled; Trumpeter kindly have included metal-reinforced landing gears, this will hold the model securely! Flickr The nose-gear is supplied in two sections (base and gear) so i can glue the base now and leave the gear for later. But we can do a dry-run, just for the joy of it! Trumpy´s Engine-parts looks fine; ---but they can´t compete with Aires, even the weld-seams inside the cans are there! Engines completed, many parts here…. Intake- and exhaust fans are super detailed by Aires! Engines, exhausts and intakes done; The cockpit is painted with MRP-195, Sukhoi Cockpit Blue-Grey; The details really pops out now! Side panels; More to come soon… Stefan

Well it is time to finish and the end of this project: And to gather - Arado 196 and Me-109, my models from WW2 period: Thanks for watching my friends Cheers

Hi All, ‘it’s been a little while since my last update but I’ve been steadily working on the Hellcat and think it is finally ready for paint....well after a lot of masking anyway! Cheers. Matt

Well, I guess I did not make myself clear about what I was not sure of, my error for the assumption....." I bought one a while back when it first came out. " is the phrase I was not sure of. I was not sure if the author of that post knew that the two kits were different or not. I viewed the information regarding the engine pieces as immaterial and ignored it.

Thought the wallet was going to get a break..! No New Years resolutions for LSP moderation in 2020, way too hard to keep that one

The Comic was a nightfighter/home defense version of the Camel. The prevent the pilot from being blinded by the muzzle flash, the fuselage guns were replaced with a pair of Lewis guns on Foster mounts atop the upper wing and the cockpit was moved back about 12 inches.

I have two of the wooden JH jigs. I use them all the time. I glued cork gasket material on the support surfaces instead of the supplied rubber. I've found that they come in very handy when transporting models, too.

I bought one a while back when it first came out. Looks to be a very complex kit. Haven't gotten around to it yet. One thing I don't understand is why Zoukei-Mura went to all the trouble of including pistons and connecting rods in the engine cylinders but didn't bother with a crankshaft.

I like Model Hobbies but that’s because I know the boss, Nick, and his wife and they are decent people. I am lucky because I’m a 10 minute drive away so I can pick stuff up and have a quick chat as well. But everyone must say it as their personal experience dictates.

Exactly my thought!

Hi Brady. I sent a note saying said part is this. I didn't fill out any form. This makes me even more confident.

How about a nose and center section with some wing section (s) for those who want to display an X-15.......

Hi Mike, This is exactly the "look" I am hoping to achieve. "Wanda" in particular, is a beautiful example of a well-used Mustang. Thanks, Rob

The master that he made the lower half of that probot from must have been a very low quality print, it looks horrible!! I am a total newbie to 3D printing, and my printer would have done better. However, you really turned it into a fantastic build, wow!!! Good on you, sir!! Tim

Way too big for me. In 1/32 it would have almost 6' wingspan and 5' long. And I thought the 1/48 one would be huge. Would be impressive to see though. oh and also then add in hundreds of more dollars for aftermarket bombs to load up the bombay and wings....

For that price sure I'll buy one and sit on it for10 years then throw it on evil bay

I never thought an aftermarket "accessory" for the Special Hobby X-15 could be so expensive...

Beautiful work, congrats on the awards!