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About Lothar

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 01/27/1950

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    Somewhere in Germany

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  1. I'd love a Fairey Firefly, I love the design of this aircraft, even though paint schemes and markings are limited. But it would make a great dispaly on any show table. Lothar
  2. Thank you very much Brian, it's indeed a great and helpful bunch of people here on LSP. I'll get back to you if needed. Lothar
  3. Blush - it should read LT (Levelling Thinner) rather than "LT thinner".
  4. That's a beauty, the outlines of the P-51 and the paint job match perfectly!!
  5. I follow the same procedure in preparing a model for paint: Rub it down with LT thinner (I'm not using alcohol, don't know why), prime the model with Mr. Surfacer 1500 grey, wait for at least 24 hrs. then apply the final color coat. I've never had the problem you've experienced. I'm not an expert when it comes to chemistry of paints, but maybe the paint and the primer didn't like each other in your second attempt? What primer are you using? Like Woody said, age should't be a problem, I've succesfully used their paints which have been stored away for several years.
  6. I need help with custom made paints masks. I have a started 1/32 Hasegawa Ki-84 Prototype which I've converted to a regular version - the parts are in the kit so that was no big deal. However, I do only have the kit markings for the prototype and I would like to finish her in these markings: I've enlarged the decal sheet from this 48scale kit by 150% to get a templat to cut my own masks. But, I miserably failed with the tail number "69" - I don't have a cutter, I work carpenter style from Tamiya tape and very sharp blade, so understandably I cannot handle curves. Any idea where to find someone to do the "69" mask (see No. 9): Any hint or help would be highly appreciated. Lothar
  7. What Brian said. I've used this thinner some years ago with their acrylics, but I've always had the subjective feeling, that even thin layers took simply too long to dry. Since I use the LT my impression (again subjective) is that even acrylics dry a lot faster and more durable. Lothar
  8. What a beautiful model, excellence in all aspects !!! Lothar
  9. Fantastic build - the weathering looks very convincing and real to my eyes - congratulations!!! Lothar
  10. This is just getting better with every post !!! Lothar
  11. I'm running out of superlatives, this is just so good Lothar
  12. I use exclusively levelling thinner for all Gunze paints, that includes their acrylic paints as well. Agreed, it's not very cheap (at least overhere in Germany) but it's the best thinner I have used so far. It even worked with like 10 year old AeraoMaster paint To clean the airbrush after a painting session, I use their regular Mr. Colour Thinner 400 which is a bit cheaper. Lothar
  13. The only paint I use and I'm happy with them. I thin them with Mr. Color Levelling Thinner 400 in 50/50 ratio for large areas. For very fine paint work I thin them 1/3 paint to 2/3 thinner (I use a 0,15 nozzle for that). Personally, Mr. Color paints level extremely well and dry rock hard in a very short time period. I've tried to thin them with Alcohol and no name lacquer thinners but would not recommend them. Tamiya lacquer thinner 87077 might work as well, but I haven't tried yet. BTW, Mr. Color 46 Clear coat is a dream to work with if properly thinned. Coverage is superb. Thinned one jar goes a long way. Just my 2 cents, other may of course think differently. Lothar
  14. Legacy Hornets (A, A+, B, C and D) are quite different from the Super Hornets (E and Fs) - differences in airframe and completely different intakes just to name a few. If you want to go for an F then Trumpeter is your only choice. For the aforementioned Legacy Hornets Academy is the kit to get, for the E and F it's Trumpeter. If I remember correctly, the A's and B's hat 2 bumps at the upper and rear part of the vertical stabilizer whereas the C's and D's had 3. And here my wisdom ends..... Lothar
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