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About kensar

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    LSP Junkie

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    western North Carolina

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  1. Finished this, my first WNW kit, the Sopwith Pup. An enjoyable build. I have added a few details of my own along the way. comments welcome.
  2. Looks just as good here as it does on the other site, Bob!
  3. Very nice build, Guy. The weathering is very realistic, giving it the dirty and grimey look.
  4. Thanks for that link, Kagemusha. I have a Loire in the stash.
  5. Nice goings on here in this thread, Tom.
  6. An update to catch up with the build: I replaced the kit detail with some more realistic parts - spokes and valve stem. Weathered wheels. Wheel hubs were turned out on the lathe. The ends of the LG axles got some thread bungie cord and metal retaining pieces. Test fit of the wheels. Weathering will begin soon. Thanks for looking.
  7. I'm glad to see you back on this, Richard. That is a complicated nose section.
  8. " I prefer my beers towards the maltier end Probably because I'm a Brummie " Probably because you have good taste! I don't know how anyone can drink that bitter beer.
  9. Pete - I made the pulleys on my lathe. Some general progress... Moving to the top wing next. Thanks for following along and commenting, everyone. Ken
  10. I'm replacing the molded-in detail of the aileron pulleys. Getting on with the general painting and decaling.
  11. woodgrain done with oils A little chipping also... loading up the gun... Still slogging through the general painting.
  12. Tom, I am interested in hearing how the acrylic 'oil' paints work. Do post about the results you get - how the final results look and how long it takes to dry.
  13. Sure, Albert. Its the 'standard' oil paint finish used by many builders of WW1 aircraft. First I paint the part with a light tan color water based paint. I use Tamiya desert yellow (its tan, not yellow). Then break out the artist's oil paint. I use raw Sienna or Burnt Sienna for a red colored wood, Raw Umber or Burnt Umber for a dark brown colored wood, like walnut, or I mix raw Sienna with some Yellow Ochre for a lighter colored wood. If the oil paint is used out of the tube, it will take weeks to dry. To speed up the drying time, I squeeze out some paint onto some brown cardboard and spread it out some. The cardboard absorbs the oil in the paint. After about 20 minutes or so, your'e ready to paint. I also mix a little 'drying oil' (sold along with oil paints) with the paint to thin it out. I may use some turpinoid (like turpentine), but not usually. Now I apply the paint over the tan paint on the part. Its better to use a coarse bristled brush to get a good wood grain effect. Varying direction of the brush strokes also gives a nice wood grain. Now set it aside for at least a week to dry to the touch. Then overcoat with a clear coat or Tamiya clear yellow or clear orange. Oil paints are a pain to use, but its the only type of paint I have found that works. If you search around the web you'll find a number of tutorials on how to create wood grain using oil paints. I hope this will help you out.
  14. You could have a look at WW1aircraftmodels.com forum. There are subforums with scratchbuild projects posted.
  15. Thanks for stopping by, guys. "What did you use for the wrapping on the control stick grip and the tail skid?" For the control stick, I used metal wire, which was pretty stiff for this application. Not liking this, I used tan sewing thread dipped in white glue for the tail skid wrapping. If I do another control stick in the future, I will use sewing thread on that as well.
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