Juggernut

yes, the distributors from the F4U-1D (and also those in the F4U-1A later engine) are correct for the R-2800-57 engine. You'll want to get the dual magneto as well as the one that comes in the Hasegawa kit is poorly rendered; very poorly. Tamiya's on the other hand, is an absolute gem.

Can you provide me a source for the use of the R-2800-47? My reference does not list that engine as being used in the P-47N but does list the R-2800-57 (yes, the same engine as the M) in the first production examples of the P-47N (-1-RE and -5-RE). As an FYI, the R-2800-47 is a B series engine with the bullet shaped prop reduction gearcase....All production P-47M's and N's had C series engines in them. Other references that indicate that the P-47N's used the R-2800-57 (at least): Bodie, Warren M.(1995). Republic's P-47, Thunderbolt, from Seversky to Victory. Widewing Publications. GA (p.402) Nohara, Shigeru.(1995). Aero Detail 14, Republic P-47 Thunderbolt. Dai Nippon Kaiga Co. Ltd. Tokyo (p. 79) Kinzey, Bert.(1998). P-47 Thunderbolt in Detail and Scale. Squadron/Signal Publications. TX (p. 65)

According to my reference, the following engines were used by the P-47N model: P-47N-1-RE R-2800-57 P-47N-5-RE R-2800-57 P-47N-15-RE R-2800-73 P-47N-20-RE R-2800-73 or -77 P-47N-20-RA R-2800-73 or -77 P-47N-25-RE R-2800-73, -77, or -81 EDIT: All the above engines are C series engines (bolted, circular prop reduction gearcase) R-2800-57 equipped with Bendix-Scintilla DF18LN dual magneto ignition system R-2800-73 equipped with General Electric magneto system (turtleback) ignition system R-2800-77 equipped with Bendix-Scintilla DF18LN dual magneto ignition system R-2800-81 equipped with General Electric magneto system (turtleback) ignition system REFERENCE: White, Graham.(2001).R-2800, Pratt & Whitney's Dependable Masterpiece. SAE Publishing. PA (pp. 279, 283, 285)

Yep, that's my proof... Genuine, North American ORIGINAL source photographs. I've got more, wanna see them? Existing panel lines are patently visible...zooming in does nothing but pixelate ANY image, even hi-resolution ones. By the way, do you know what parasite drag is? Any VISIBLE panel line will create parasite drag, longitudinal, lateral or otherwise. Why the HELL would North American specify to fill and sand panel lines (butt joints) while leaving them visible? It just defeats the entire point of filling and sanding in the first place.

How's this for a "Burt Rutan" wing? No visible panel lines with the exception of the fuel tank/wing stress plates; the rest is smooth as a baby's !$%! Allison engined P-51 Mustang... Same wing on ALL P-51's through at least the K. No "ghost lines" at all. REFERENCE: O'Leary, Michael. (2010). Building the P-51 Mustang, The Story of Manufacturing North American's Legendary World War II Fighter in Original Photos. Specialty Press. MN (p. 66)

Me neither but 2021, I'm all in for Vegas! Yeah baby (best Austin Powers voice).

I just got a 1/32 Hasegawa F-5E with the RAF Alconbury decals for $41! I'm stoked! Now I have somewhere to install that Black Box F-5E cockpit I've been hoarding for 10+ years

Nicely done! Now try the 1/32 version.. You'll be blown away with the details and options the kit gives you. Unfortunately, it comes with a price too, a rather large one that may be above your "it's worth it" threshold.

The Elegoo Mars is the very 3D printer I own. It's really nice. You'll never print an average size 1/32 scale fuselage with it (the print area isn't large enough) but it does a fantastic job with small to medium sized prints. Of course there is a learning curve with this type of printer and I learned fairly quickly that you need to have your Z axis lubed really well or you'll get a "layered" print... the slicing software that comes with the printer is nice. You'll want to use the Elegoo printer resins with this guy as it gets rave reviews because of it's viscosity (it's thinner than other 3D printing resins). A few downsides of this type of resin printing: It takes UV light to cure. That means building/buying a UV curing chamber (I saw one built for around $30 at Formlabs) or leaving it in the sun to cure for a while (the longer the better). Other downside is that if you don't print something completely solid (and you shouldn't if at all possible, on larger, thicker prints), you need to leave a couple of little holes for the liquid resin inside the print, to leak out. If you don't, it will find a way (usually through an error in the print that results in a small hole) a way out and ruin the printed surface. I've experienced that one first hand too. As modelers, it's really easy to plug the holes afterward with some stretched styrene and superglue. Or, you can avail yourself of the 3D printers software and leave the "holes" that were removed from the print on the build plate. I usually just delete them and fill the holes with a tapered stretched sprue plug and superglue. Lastly, the liquid resin is VERY sneaky and if you're not careful, it can get all over the place. You'll also need to clean your prints after they come out of the bath with at least 91% isopropyl or simple green or equivalent before subjecting them to the UV curing process. If you don't, you'll get blobs of solidified runs on your print that are impossible to remove (they look like paint runs only thicker). For me, the toughest part of this entire resin 3D printing thing is the 3D design software. I have a "hobby" (i.e., free to use for a limited time) copy of Fusion360 and it's a bear to get into. Even tinkercad (a free online 3D deisgn tool) has a learning curve with it. The good thing is that you can design something in tinkercad, save it and then import it into Fusion360 and work it more. Both software programs are from Autodesk so they're compatible. As for other 3D design software programs, I'll let others comment. I have no experience with them. I have a simple motto with reputable software like this... "If it's free, it's for me!"

You're correct that the Hasegawa M kit engine does not have the correct ignition system. Having said that, the R-2800-57 (P-47M) does not use the GE turtleback ignition system, it uses the Bendix-Scintilla dual magneto system. Substantial differences between the two.

That won't do you much good either. The m kit doesn't have the correct engine either although it does provide the correct prop reduction gearcase. The D kit does have the dive flaps too. So, either way you go, there's a little work to do. The M kit can be hard to find too. Harold makes the correct prop for the P-47M. The p-47M did not have zero length rocket rails on it but did have provisions for pylons added after they arrived in England.

The R-2800's are not even close to identical unless you're meaning they both have 18 cylinders. Apart from that there are vast differences between them. The P-47D bubbletops used the R-2800-59 whereas the P-47M used the R-2800-57. The former being a B series engine and the latter a C series engine. Totally different cylinders, prop governor locations, and ignition systems. R-2800-59 - P-47D-25 through D-40 (B series engine) Notice the cylinders, the ignition system (GE turtleback magnetos) with the tubular ignition manifold, and the prop governor between the two magnetos. R-2800-57 (or reasonable approximation thereof). Compare the cylinders, ignition system, cast ignition manifold, and the prop governor (this example is missing it but the blanking plate is just to the left of the distributor at the left of the dual magneto in the image). C series crankcase. Will the layperson know that the engines are completely different? Probably not. You will know so you have a decision to make regarding the engine. In 1/24 you may be very limited in the R-2800's that are available but since I do not model in that scale, I cannot say you won't find a C series engine in that scale from some manufacturer.

We'll, a little differences in the cockpit depending on which production block N you're planning. Armrests on the seats for N's later than the block 5 if memory serves. The initial N series used the same engine as the M (R-2800-57) but later production block aircraft used the -77. Both C series engines and there may not be any noticeable differences between the two but I don't know that for sure. I'll need to consult my R-2800 book and post after. Other than that, yeah, it's pretty much the fin fillet, the bulbous one, most commonly seen on the N, was also seen on a few M's as well.

No, I was at the Horseheads, NY facility (HawkWorks). We got the green UH-60M's from Stratford and turned them into S-70's for various FMS customers. We even got a few shells (bare fuselages from Troy, Alabama). All Schweizer's light helicopters (300C, 300C-1, 333, 333M, and 434) were rebranded under the Sikorsky Global Helicopters name and moved to Coatsville but Coatsville couldn't build the turbine light helicopters, there was too much "tribal knowledge" involved in building it. I think they pretty much shut the light helicopters down but I just read an article that they're closing the Coatsville facility by the end of the year. S-92's and S-76's will be moved to Owego, NY (not far from Horseheads). Not sorry I moved to PA as the job/pay was way better than working the production line with an MBA.... Most of our FMS S-70's had the Robinson tanks in them as that's what the customer wanted (and they ordered a butload of them). I have heard that these HH-60G's aren't used for insertion/extraction very much, if at all, any more. Pity, I'm partial to those types of operations. Guess that comes from growing up with a Dad that worked on highly classified stuff for the RC-135's (Rivet Joint and Combat Sent aircraft).

Hi, I've been looking at this kit so I'll be watching your build with interest. I haven't picked up one yet but I do like those crew figures you dressed so nicely. If I get this kit, I'll definitely have to pick up a set of those crew figures. Of note is the prominent electrical wiring harnesses (Left and Right Main Harnesses) running down each side of the upper cabin structure at approximately 1/3 BL left and right of BL 0. I can't remember the exact butline locations as I've not looked at one of these guys since late 2011. I used the 1/3 as a fraction of where the harnesses run in relation to the width of the cabin roof. If memory serves, they beak apart around station 308 (back of the cabin; again if memory serves). You're probably already aware of these but just in case you're not.... Are you planning on using the Robbie tank in the cabin? I used to work the modification line for Sikorsky FMS sales until they closed our plant. Got some great mental notes but any photos were strictly verboten there. Looks like a great start!