Juggernut

Thanks for asking this question as I was thinking the exact same thing just yesterday. Google yielding some results but not inexpensive ones.

That certainly sucks bushwater but Tamiya USA may be of help if you strike out elsewhere.

That would be on LARGE scale plane in 1/32.

Somebody was gonna do it, might as well be me :)

I also notice that the antenna attachment on the wooden tail seems to differ on the installations. I see the one that's inset into the leading edge of the vertical stab but then I also see one that looks like it's screwed to the vertical tail, a little further up on the stab (as shown in the attached photos below). I modeled the latter so I hope I'm not going to have to change that as well (I think it looks a lot better than does the inset attachment point). IMAGE REFERENCE: http://109lair.hobbyvista.com/techref/structures/tails/talltail.htm

Thanks Mike, that photo is actually the one that made me think about the "seam arrangement" that I had on the tail and prompted my question.

Thanks Damian!

Again, Google is not my friend...I don't know where you guys are finding all these photos. My search skills must suck and my limited references don't really answer my quest for information. Ok, next question is regarding the panel lines (or lack thereof) on a wooden vertical stabilizer. Was the entire assembly from the horizontal stab join upward all wooden or was just the top portion? I think I mistakenly scribed a panel line where the part join is for the vertical stabilizer parts in the kit and filled the seam just below the rudder mass balance. Having looked at the photograph Mike posted (reposted below), it appears that the entire vertical fin from the horizontal stab join upward appears to be wooden so if anyone can confirm that much (or let me know where such joint would be), I'll fill in the line I scribed at the kit parts joint and leave it without any lines. Oh, would there be a metal leading edge on the wooden vertical stab like is on the wooden horizontal stab and would it be flush with the wooden surface or sit proud of the surface like the horizontal stabs? Thanks again for all the assistance; you're helping me make this model as accurate as I possibly can.

Make sure to take care of yourself first and foremost.

To you as well.

You'll need to buy the replacement sprue that contains the windscreen. You call the regional Tamiya establishment (if you were in the U.S., you'd call Tamiya USA). If you're in Australia, you may even need to call Tamiya Japan.... Tell them the number of the sprrue you need that contains the windscreen on it (from the sprue listing in the instruction sheet), pay the fee and Bob's your Uncle... Then all you need to do is wait until it gets to you.

According to my "bible", the P-47D-11 (RE and RA) was equipped with the R-2800-63 engine (White, p. 394). This was a B series engine with a Scintilla magneto system (White, p. 280). In short, you'll want to use the teardrop shaped distributors and leave the center mounted dual magneto on. The turtleback magnetos you will discard to the spares box (if you keep spares) belong on R-2800-59 engines used on bubbletop P-47D's (and certain razorbacks). The bullet shaped prop reduction gearcase is correct for any B series R-2800 engine. Here's a side photo of the R-2800-63 engine. It's slightly out of focus on the left side because it's a scan from my "bible" (see reference below). Notice it has a tubular ignition harness, not the cast one (in case the kit comes with both). REFERENCE: Graham,W. (2001). R-2800, pratt & whitney's dependable masterpiece, SAE Publishing, PA. (pp. 280, 281, 394)

This is where I learned how to cover aircraft (and control surfaces) with dope and fabric almost 40 years ago. This page deals with drain holes... Just FYI as these procedures are a lost art today. It's pages 96 and 99 from the FAA Mechanics Guide, Advisory Circular 65-15 (AC65-15) available from the FAA and are most likely the same procedures used to cover control surfaces during the war years (not much changed between then and when I went to A&P school). It's been deactivated but when I was in A&P school, these books were the way.

Awesome Dora John! I read the entire build thread.... Lots of work went into it, all with great skill and talent.

Well, I've gotten this far with the Revell Bf109G-10, the ailerons will be next and since they're fabric, the molded pinked dope and fabric will remain. I may drill the drain holes but I may not as the vast majority of dope and fabric control surfaces I've seen have the drain hole grommets but they're not open, they're covered with fabric which is doped in place. LOL Damian, it's a little bit late for me to look at the kit parts as I obliterated all that detail last night. Luckily, the instructions have a pretty good rendering of the locations so I'll use them to locate the holes in the elevators. I also had to build up the leading edges of the outer portion of each elevator as the gap between them and the corresponding part on the stabilizer was more than I liked....probably a direct result of some overzealous seam sanding. I also removed the molded trim tab as it was weird looking..half of it was molded with the top half of the elevator and the other half with the bottom...neither of which mated well when assembled...easy-peezey fix...knock them off with a file, cut some "appropriate" replacements and install them with some Tamiya Extra-Thin...and Bob's your Uncle.