Jump to content

baffozac

LSP_Members
  • Content Count

    34
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

baffozac last won the day on May 31

baffozac had the most liked content!

About baffozac

  • Rank
    LSP Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    In the country of the calanques

Recent Profile Visitors

116 profile views
  1. Hi Peter, the same process for this: The two handles (black arrows) on the trailing edge of the upper wing made with a master (red arrow) used to thermoform these parts (blue arrow). The hinges and bracket of the rudder are glued. After a couple of days (putty, sanding, primer) the join is smooth. Anti-skid strips added. Hinges for the flap allowing the folding of the wing and lot of drains have to be moulded using Milliput footprints and melted plactic.
  2. Hi, this not too bad for a guy with two letf hands ! Cheers. Alain
  3. Hello Clark, for the 38 louvers on the front of the plane, the merit is due to a marking gauge I made with a balsa stripper. Here the link, sorry, in french: http://www.master194.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=103658&start=75
  4. Hello gentlemen, Many thanks to PCM for this kit ! Macchi 205 of Magg Adriano Visconti will be a nice and interesting plane. Visconti was a cowardly murdered hero. But I still have months of work on the Ro43....... Thank you again for your messages and have a nice weekend. Cheers !
  5. The clear parts Thanks to my friend Jean Bodson, famous french modeler, who made me these parts, using thien plexiglass softened in hot oil. it's as thin as vacuform and clear and strong like parts in the best standard kits and can be glued with plastic cement. Whe have corrected the front glass of the windshield because in the kit this part is too square at the top. Frames added using thin card and layers of Mr Surfacer. For the machines guns, Jacques Druel made me photoetched parts as 12,7 mm Safat have a ring of small holes at the front. Hatches of the guns were reengraved as the majority of the hatches of the plane. All the numerous louvres were carved. For all these works I used the pictures from the real plane and drawings of the Aero Detail 15 which are the best for me.
  6. Bellissimo !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You like italian seaplanes too ?
  7. I used Top Studio 0.6 mm rivets (TD23086) as screws and rivets from Archer as rivets. The upper wing under construction.
  8. The cockpit. The only part I used from the kit is the instrument panel with some changes. The rest is scratch built.
  9. Same part for the upper wing: 3D printed ribs and 2,4 mm Evergreen tube for the spars. The only change is the inner spar a 2 mm carbon rod. Now it looks more like a biplane.
  10. The landing gear: From the kit, I kept only the fork and the bottom of the doors with some modifications, for the rest, thank you Mr Evergreen ! Main and tail wheels don't have the right dimensions although it is indicated on the tires. For the markings on the sidewalls, thanks to my friend Georges Olivereau who made dry transfers I use on the masters. The rims not having the characteristic details are also redone. With a little paint and a cat hair ........ Have a nice day !
  11. So nice !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  12. Masking to make fabric thicknesses. I used 7 mm tape spaced by 1 mm. I used the same narrow tape for the four faces. A template helps tu cut the tips form. Black plastic card is a tester of thickness: I put a first layer of Surfacer 1500 diluted with AK extreme thinner on the wings and on the black card. When it's dry, I pull the number 1 tape and check the thickness. If this is not enough, secon layer and so on. So I don’t have to take the tape off the wings. Three layers were required and a sanding with 2000 paper. 1 mm steel rods glued with Araldite. Still to cover the central part with plastic card. Have a nice weekend !
  13. Hi Peter, it's time to tell us the truth, you're restoring a real P-51 C ? Alain
  14. With a light coat of AK758 primer the wavy effect appears better. The central part of the upper wing under construction. More stiffeners are needed. Steel rods are used for a good centring. Now, I can drill. The four holes will be expand depending on the size of the screws or pins.
×
×
  • Create New...