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Pascal

LSP_Members
  • Content Count

    335
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About Pascal

  • Rank
    Hooked For Life
  • Birthday 01/16/1970

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Houthalen Belgium
  • Interests
    Modelling, Ferrari, Spitfires

Recent Profile Visitors

546 profile views
  1. I bought several sprues (1/24 Tamiya Porsche 956, 1/32 F-16C/J clear sprue, 1/32 F-14A clear sprue, etc). from Time Tunnel Models. Very good prices and excellent service. I think they are the UK importer for Tamiya models. Sincerely Pascal
  2. Update : After months and months of headscratching, I've finally found a way to attach the kidney shaped parts to the gearbox. They need to be fixed to the gearbox at exactly the spot where there's a hole for the screw that attaches the gearbox to the chassis. I've trimmed a plastic part of an old aircraft kit so that it fits in the hole, the copper tube will hold that part in place while I drill the holes : Here I've drilled the first hole and inserted a piece of brass tubing that will hold the kidney shaped part in place : Dryfit : Not a lot of clearance between the diagonal torsion bar and the suspension arms, but the real car looks exactly the same : I'm really happy that I've finally found a solution, now I can move on with this project. Sincerely Pascal
  3. There's OTHER fora than LSP ? Ok, I'll let myself out.
  4. Maybe she didn't like his need for speed
  5. When I spray model cars, I use spraycans. Depending if I want a gloss finish or a deep "showroom" super shiny finish, I spray between 4 an 8 medium coats. Then let it harden for a month. After that I use polishing pads (2500-12000) and lots of water. Sometimes I use a polishing compound after that. Finally I use a wax and buff that to a high shine manually or with a cotton wheel. Sincerely Pascal
  6. Nice work Harald. What did you use to repaint the spinner ? On the first page you said you wanted to redo it. I'm curious if you found the right degrees for the tape. Sincerely Pascal
  7. I want to try to vacuform a windshield and side windows of a +/- 1/50 scale car. The master is from the kit and is styrene. Can I vacuform directly onto the styrene master ? Will the vacuformed plastic stick to the master ? All help is welcome. Sincerely Pascal
  8. Update : All the bodies that I've made sofar have 1 big problem : the area around the windshield and windows. They have to be really thin to allow the 1 part windows to fit, but that makes them very fragile. I hope it will get better when I'm able to vacform the windows, but that's something I've never done before, so that will be another first. This photo shows the problem area : The body from the kit looks like this : So I made another mould (the "male" part this time). The rubber needs to harden 8 hours, fingers crossed that it will turn out all right. Good news : I've been fairly succesful in casting the rims / wheels. At the moment they're not all the same height, the will be corrected when the tires are done : The details came out pretty nice : But I'll need to make a new mould (with a harder rubber) to cast the other version of the wheels. Some tiny pieces of rubber broke off after 2 castings : I wasn't succesful in making a mould for the rubber tires, so I used my lathe and made the front tire from a nylon rod, the rear tire from a alu rod. I made the diameter a little bigger so that they fill the wheelopenings a bit more : Will make the mould for the tires this weekend, I hope that all goes well. Sincerely Pascal
  9. Been busy at work, but I have a couple of days off. Wasn't happy with the castings, figured that the reason was that the female part of the mold wasn't large enough. This caused the sides of the castings being to thick and bending outwards. I ordered some new silicone rubber and made a new female part, using the male part of the mold and some lego. Here it is after 8 hours : The new mold is a lot bigger, specially on the sides (doesn't show very well on this photo) : So far so good, but I made a couple of errors. The silicone was seeping through the lego blocks because I didn't put in pieces of cardboard or tape to line the inside. Took me almost 2 hours to get the mold out of the lego blocks. Then I decided to cast the first body, but forgot to spray the mold with a release agent. This was the result : And I spend the next couple of hours picking small chips of resin out of the mold. But there's good news ! I cut some excess rubber away from the male part of the mold, on the left the last casting from the old mold, on the right the first from the new : Old mold with all the imperfections on the side of the body : New mold (this is the broken body, glued together) : And this is the second body from the new mold, after some clean up : Still not perfect, the area at around the windshield needs some work. I think some modifications on the male part of the mold will help. Sincerely Pascal
  10. Very nice paintjob. Sincerely Pascal
  11. Another stunning model Chuck ! Thank you for explaining in detail HOW you do things. Your builds are an inspiration and are great tutorials. If you ever want to combine them in a book, a nice title would be "Scale model aircraft Chucked Up A Notch" Sincerely Pascal
  12. GT-resin is no longer listed in the forum sponsors section, did I miss something ? I hope he hasn't stopped making his products. Sincerely Pascal
  13. Good to see Inky back home and recovering.
  14. Plastic will always be there. It will be used to enhance models. Not models with wings, but they will come in several scales / sizes (B, C, D, DD). The basic model will be in the early 20's, and there will always be plenty of aftermarket products to enhance landing gear, bumpers, food inlets and rear ends.
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