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About Pascal

  • Rank
    Hooked For Life
  • Birthday 01/16/1970

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  • Location
    Houthalen Belgium
  • Interests
    Modelling, Ferrari, Spitfires

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  1. I did a ton of work the last couple of weeks, time for an update. I glued the NACA duct to the front hood, the ducts came out of the part that I cut from that hood to make the large hole for the air inlet : The BBurago hole for the headlights : I made these bigger for the LM and IMSA versions : Before and after family photo : Started with this Bburago part : I removed the grills, tubes and some plastic from the rounded area to the back, and started boxing in the new bigger holes : Dryfit : These parts were 3D-printed. The red louvres are for the GTE version, these were drawn and printend by a belgian friend. The black louvres are for the IMSA version, these were drawn and printend by an italian friend : Dryfit with the red louvres and NACA ducts : Dryfit with the black louvres : These need a bit more sanding, luckily the dimensions and especially the height are perfect : Made a hole and glued in the NACA ducts on the sides of the body (LM, GTE en IMSA versions) : These tubes were printed in Italy : As were these U-shaped brackets that hold the suspension arms. I ordered 100 of these : Back to the tubes. The first one is glued into the frame and some putty has been smeared to plug the gaps. Needs a little sanding, but it's a major improvement to the first version that I made with the green plastic tubes : One side of the tube is more round then the other, just like with a 1/1 scale F40 : These are the headlights of the Hotwheels F40 : These are headlights from Legende Miniatures : The look OK, but they dont have the depth of real headlight. I made these with the lathe. The macro-photo has each of them look a bit different, with the naked eye they all look the same. The first one took a couple of hours to make, now it takes about 20 mins to make 1 headlight : In this photo the left one has a round piece of clear plastic. I will use thicker sheet cause it's barely visible : Used the lathe to turn the BBurago tires into slicks : Some light sanding is still needed and the sides need to be rounded : That's it. Next update will have to wait a few months, because I have to repeat all the modifications to the other 8 F40's. Till next time Pascal
  2. Been very busy the last week. Everytime that I modifie a piece, the same has to be done to the other 8 Bburago F-40's. My workbench is littered with parts : I removed about 5mm from the front part of the frame. Before : After : I finally cut all the struts from a U-shaped brass profile. Took me couple of hour. Sorry for the lousy picture : The struts are sanded on the top, so that the piece of plasticard fits nicely : I'm using this part from a Kyosho F-40 to make some details that will go on to the back of the piece of plasticard : Kyosho made the air inlet tubes like this : This is a first test on one of the Bburago frames, I might want the alter the shape of the hole a bit because now the tube gets squashed : I hope that the tube will look like this when done : Sincerely Pascal
  3. Nobody tells better what Memorial Day means then a soldier :
  4. I finally put this project back on the modelling table. Nine of my 11 Bburago F40's will go to the production process. Some pics of the F40 graveyard : A couple of years ago a friend of mine made about 30 of these with his CNC milling machine : The goal is to make a frame like this one from a Kyosho F40 : That's were this project got stuck. I had no idea how to turn those A's into a frame, untill about a week ago : TATAAAA, I have an idea. First step : glue a piece of plasticard - in a shallow angle - on top of the frame : Step 2 : connect the A's with some scrap plastic : First dryfit shows that there's some tweaking left to do, but the idea seems to work : The Kyosho will serve as a donor for a lot more parts, here's a couple of them : Sincerely Pascal
  5. The Tamiya kit is € 135, the Revell kit is € 20. The Revell kit and Jens's decal will make a nice project.
  6. That's a wonderful scheme Jen ! What kit (kits) are suitable to build an FG-1D in 1/48 and 1/32 scale ? I did a google search, but I don't know a thing about Corsairs.
  7. She's looking mighty fine Dale. Nice to see you back at the modelling table.
  8. Nice topic. LSP cockpits, for me that's Large Scale Porsche cockpits. Here's a pic of my 1/18 935 : I'll let myself out now ...
  9. Spent a lot of hours fiddeling ... After endless dryfiting, I found the solution to the problem : I moved a hole in the gearbox a bit more to the front : Lousy pic, but it shows the old and new hole (barely) A copper tube will be fitted in the new hole, this will serve as an attachment for a piece that's part of the suspension : I added some tiny parts to the gearbox (triangles, strips, circles, etc) : Made 4 of these with the lathe, they will attach the exhaust tubes to the exhaust : Dryfit : It was a lot of work, but I'm happy that it went well. Sincerely Pascal
  10. I bought several sprues (1/24 Tamiya Porsche 956, 1/32 F-16C/J clear sprue, 1/32 F-14A clear sprue, etc). from Time Tunnel Models. Very good prices and excellent service. I think they are the UK importer for Tamiya models. Sincerely Pascal
  11. Update : After months and months of headscratching, I've finally found a way to attach the kidney shaped parts to the gearbox. They need to be fixed to the gearbox at exactly the spot where there's a hole for the screw that attaches the gearbox to the chassis. I've trimmed a plastic part of an old aircraft kit so that it fits in the hole, the copper tube will hold that part in place while I drill the holes : Here I've drilled the first hole and inserted a piece of brass tubing that will hold the kidney shaped part in place : Dryfit : Not a lot of clearance between the diagonal torsion bar and the suspension arms, but the real car looks exactly the same : I'm really happy that I've finally found a solution, now I can move on with this project. Sincerely Pascal
  12. There's OTHER fora than LSP ? Ok, I'll let myself out.
  13. Maybe she didn't like his need for speed
  14. When I spray model cars, I use spraycans. Depending if I want a gloss finish or a deep "showroom" super shiny finish, I spray between 4 an 8 medium coats. Then let it harden for a month. After that I use polishing pads (2500-12000) and lots of water. Sometimes I use a polishing compound after that. Finally I use a wax and buff that to a high shine manually or with a cotton wheel. Sincerely Pascal
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