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Many thanks for your comments ! Hello Bil, thanks for your beautiful picture I didn't have, but I’ve already done the trolley. And build a catapult would take me a couple of months and I am not sure that this type was on the Fiume, a Zara-class heavy cruiser. The machine gun and its hydraulic support. The end is very near !

I've got a bit more paint work done (I've been able to go back to my trusty double action Iwata Eclipse) and begin adding shade and tonal variations to the paint, not that it really needs it because in places where I put the paint on too thin it actually looked quite real...but I went ahead and fixed that too real problem. I've been adding red brown, flat brown, olive green and yellow to the base color of olive drab in the airbrush. and trying to spray panels, panel lines, etc. with the different shades. Seen in the pictures are the masks I've begun to cut using Tamiya tape and Frisket film I've traced from the HK Models kit and Kitsworld's decals. On an interesting (to me) side note, upon tracing out the HK Models decals star I thought I had goobered them badly, I was using an RB Products straight edge to cut them out and noticed the stars arms weren't symmetrical. I put the straight edge on the decal sheet to find I hadn't goobered the tracing but HK Models had goobered them. So I made my own with a compass, protractor and straight edge. The perforations in the skin have been shot and brush painted with chipping medium and will be worked out after the plane letters and national markings have been painted on...hopefully Thank you for looking

OK, new project, the Hasegawa Bf 109G-14/AS. Kit, when received, was just loaded with cool AM, so only some very minor purchases to make (mostly an Aires 'pit), and I should be able to beat this into something that hopefully looks pretty cool, and have it done by September. Box and AM guts:

The oldest original kit in my stash is a Revell Japan release of their Beaufighter. Carl

Ok, I have begun to scribe in the major vertical panel lines and a few around the gun bays. I am shooting from the hip on a lot of these and relying on my interpretation of drawings and photos. These are my tools, tape and my razor saw. Dan

finito

A busy couple of weeks have put the Spit on the back burner, sadly, although I did find some time the other day to look at the canopy handle and emergency release ball. The etch handle looks very flat, so I added a grip using a tiny sliver of Tamiya tape: Next up, the release ball. first idea was to use the end of a Lego lever/aerial thing: but that was waaaay too big and I didn't fancy trying to either cut or sand it down to size. So - fine wire from the wrapping on a bottle of what was a very decent Rioja, bent into a hook to hold a tiny roughly ball-shaped blob of Mr. White Putty. No need to make a perfect sphere - I let the rough shape set then added a dab of neat gloss varnish and surface tension pulled it into a ball. Neat After that dried, I applied a thin coat of Tamiya clear red and: Voilà! For some reason it looks a bit balloon shaped in the pic, but it is actually a nice, round, ball. Next up - undercarriage legs and start getting paint on things. Sepp.

Hi Neo, I think there was a bit of a tutorial on how I did it a couple of pages back. Some more work. When fitting the master pitot tube, I discovered that the fairing that it inserted into was too big. The pitot tube has a very long moment arm and would easily break out of the fairing if hit so I wanted to fix it up and make it a bit more accurate as well. As can be seen, the fairing is far bigger than the pitot tube, and has already developed a crack. I ripped off the kit fairing and made up a much smaller fairing from plastic card, which I then glued onto it a long piece of brass tube which extended into the fuselage. I also positioned it further aft along the fuselage. I glued a larger diameter piece of brass tube over the fairly small stub on the master pitot tube, which fits nicely into the brass tube fairing. This pushes firmly together to allow the pitot tube to be easily removed for transport. Much better

Thanks Gregair, i hope to add value to this difficult model SOMETHING OF COLOR. the intention of the version appears

Salt weathering done......and hard to see in pictures, of course. But, at least in person, it helped tone things down. The insignia's definitely look better (first picture, super dark for some reason on it, much lighter in person???). Definitely looking for opinions here. The main panel lines on the fuselage, I shaded them with smoke and I'm not sure if I went too nuts/dark. Thoughts on how they look? Should I back them down a few steps so they don't stand out as much? Let me know what you think! Overall progress.....

well well its finished, love this kit, best 1/32 modern jet on market. Its not perfect but I'm very happy with the result big and impressive I must be the winner of the smallest model space on the forum, i am so envious of you guys with your model rooms

After the hard work to complete the Su-25 that I presented to you a few days ago here is my new project: a nice Tamiya kit to make me happy with the world of injected plastic ... It is a bit that study of the subject in question, it is one of the specimens used for the first suicide attackers described in this famous photo taken on 25 October 44 in Mabalacat in the Philippines: The Zeke in the foreground with the code 02-888 should have been piloted by Lieutenant Yukio Seki and portrays him the moment before taking off for his last mission which will end with his sacrifice and the sinking of the escort aircraft carrier st. Lo (CVE-63) The Photos of the complete model: Finally the "vintage" photo directly from 1944 ... Thanks everyone for the advice. Until next time.

Hi Guys from the ends of the earth (New Zealand). Thanks for accepting me. I'm mainly a figure painter but have recently started to dabble in aircraft again mainly in1/48 but have the opportunity to pick up a kit or two in 1/32nd and since, this scale in particular, is new to me I thought I'd better join up to get some advice on prospective purchases and help with detailing etc. So I've read reviews of the following kits but I'd be interested in comments as to build issues from those who have built any or all of the following. 1.Trumpeter Vought F4U-4 Corsair - I'm drawn to this as firstly the RNZAF flew them back when we had an air force not the Air Farce we have now and 2ndly my ex father in Law flew Corsairs both as a pilot Instructor and also in combat missions, ground interdiction in late 1944-45. This is the most expensive of the three I'm looking at but the Kiwi connection is very strong. 2. Are the Bf 109 G6 by Revell and Trumpeter these have a similar price point to each other. I'd be looking purely OOB as getting Resin here is a expensive, with the exception of NZ markings if the Corsair is worth the money. Thanks

I forgot the mm ruler for Mark, sorry for that... here comes the other side of the cockpit. I am still looking for photos of a fully equipped rack behind the navigator's seat and the rear portion of the side console which in my opinion was covered with a fabric. If anyone has photos of it, I would highly appreciate if you would share them!

Here’s tonight’s progress, drop tanks are looking pretty good. I managed to get some vertical shading on the tanks to match the welds that have been ground down on the tanks. Those thin Archer Surface details look the part. Got a few faces painted for my figures. Tomorrow I’ll mount the drop tanks and then take some pics!

The Aim-9p missiles are done. I had trouble determining the color and position of the color bands as every photo on the net has a different take on it. In the end I looked at the most probable mid eighties config and went with that. The Aim-9L missiles were also painted in Neutral grey. The photos I could find of the period showed them to be darker than the modern day Light Compass Grey. I will still decide on painting the color bands or using decals. In the mean time I cut strips and the refueling receptacle markings as I have not been successful with the long and thin decals on the no step walkway markings. I measured the lines on the Hasegawa decals and cut .85mm strips. No problem with the Silhouette cutter. Enjoy Nick

Thanks for the encouragement! Painting has started on the fuselage tonight. Thank you for looking

Update time again, and at last, the fuselage is together. Here's the final steps to making that happen. The last bit of this assembly that needed finishing was the cannon feed. I glued in the back part of the feed first, let that set, then added the bullets and front part of the feed. Of course, in bending the bullets to fit, they broke, but I was able to repair that quickly enough. Next up was to complete the cockpit sides. Here's the right side. And what it looks like with the floor added. This is the left side. The throttle quadrant is Eduard photo etch, but it's mounted to a scratch built plastic backing, as the kit part is for the 1/48 scale version. I glued 3 pieces of card together then filed it to shape, then built a mount on the back so that it would attach securely to the door post. And again with the floor in place. I did some more test fitting with the guns now complete, and found that the top of the fuselage was rocking, so I hollowed out the insides. I think the cannon feed is a tad too tall. I also filed a little material off the green machine gun magazine as it's a fraction too wide on the right side, and fractionally over hangs the cockpit floor. And at last, the fuselage is together. The halves need to be very tightly bound together as the fuselage won't meet below the windscreen, though filing that magazine mentioned above helps. In every other respect, it's gone together well. The propeller backing plate is also mounted (you'll note my reminder on the door ). The nosewheel leg is left out at this point, as I'm sure I'll break it at some stage during the construction. As the cannon passes through the mount , I've "adjusted" it so that it will fit later, and beefed up the mount in the wheel well a little. Alas I've come across a major fitment issue which I hadn't thought of, but more of that in the next installment. Cheers, Michael

Rummaging thru the stash, thought there might be some interesting responses. I have a few original Revells, an original Hasegawa, and a Hawk San Francisco Cable car. I have some old Tamiya armor too.

Here it is, finally i finished this kit, so far the best HH-60G kit in the market, figures are from Live Resin

Greetings friends. Our new models are getting ready for production. As I reported earlier, one of them is the Su-9 (1946). Reading the posts of my colleagues, I understand that it is becoming increasingly difficult to continue to support production with a drop in interest in our hobby. I am well aware that the Su-9 will not be a bestseller)). But those people who receive and deliver it in their collections will have a really unique product. Many consider the Su-9 a copy of the Me-262, but the resemblance is really undeniable and the engines on the Su-9 were German. But if you look closely, these are completely different and engineering solutions. In general, if Su-9 appears in your collection next to the Me262, and a little later, Kikka - it will be just cool). Also, no matter what, we continue to work on the Vampire. And in the near future we will begin to sell some modifications of the existing Yak-25K/S models (with missiles RS-2U and R-8), and two more versions of the Hs-293 - versions of the Hs-293C and Hs-293D. Thank you all for your interest in our work. And take care of yourself!

Yes I think he is...... It's a pleasure buddy. I thought this opportunity probably wont come around again....so I did some good ole Kiwi nagging....LOL. Initially purely for selfish reasons, but LSP'ers are my family and I figured there might be one or 2 others interested. Sure is a great canvas! Getting closer now Cheers Anthony

My kit arrived in the post today. I got the limited edition with the figure and extra gun barrels. It is an absolute beauty. The wing surface detail is breathtaking! This model is a "must have". Radu

Welcome. You might try the swap at a show and find a Revell Corsair. Prolly a lot less and a good way to stretch your budget while getting back to 1/32. And it looks like a Corsair.

I think this must be it, almost as old as myself... A 1967 Packard Touring 1/32. Kent

The 1/72 scale will be on the little base wheels down

I think the oldest kit I have is the 1:48 Monogram Devastator. It's actually a very nice kit, better than most of its day, released in 1974. I built it in grade school, probably 1976 or 1977. I don't remember where or when I picked up this one but it is in fantastic shape, complete with the Shepherd Paine diorama tips and techniques supplement.

Well Option 2 was the front runner but this is starting to become like the Democratic nominee race.

modeling time, small advances, I decided to advance in the engine, it turns out that the model brings the Turbomeca Artouste engine version and the model I want needs a Turbomeca Astazou engine. they are quite different Artouste / Astazou we start with some adaptations and I don't love the nozzle, so I made one in aluminum

Nice example of worn/patchwork camouflage on an AH-64:

Thanks Stefano, nice of you to say....I do have another(pic) that I might add to this series.Been wanting to get at it for a while now. Unfortunately the BF2C-1 was donated to a friend who wanted it..but the SBU-1 will be a great replacement. I promise I'll post as soon as we get into it. Cheers. Bill.

OK - more randomness from me - and it's been a while - but a good friend, and member of this parish, has been looking at 1:200 ship models - which, in turn, has pointed out that I really ought to post a progress post on my lack of progress on the kit... Actually - I had mentioned, back in the mists of time, that I was trying to sort out the space to build and photograph the Hood as I (hopefully) start to make progress. As some will know - I now have 'studio space' courtesy of my employers and the exchange of a small(ish) amount of cash from my salary each month - so the excuses are disappearing fast! So - photography - and excuse the mobile phone pix - I don't have a DSLR with me today: I also have black and coloured backdrop sheets - but I need to find something that doesn't crease - and gives an even black I think... Model in the photo above is a 1:32 Spitfire for a sense of scale... Big enough for Hood (with proper camera anyway): And someone was asking about mounting finials - these are brass lamp fittings from Ebay at about £3 each - used succesfully the other year when I built a 1:400 Titanic for a friends son. Now looking at suppliers of clear cases... Stay tuned, or not - but I will make a proper start soon! Iain

I don't think I'd hesitate to say that it's this Peterbilt truck kit. Purchased when I was just a pup, and found in the attic many, many years later.

This was my fix for my "Slick Chick" build. Good luck and have fun: THE DOCTOR IS IN carefully removing the engine mount after fuselage is glued and cured, the one piece canopy (I'm using the two piece option for both final builds) is very handy to protect the pit during surgery... using 1.6mm styrene angle 3 pieces are cut and glued, port and starboard sides are easy to position however, the critical bottom piece is dropped 1mm. initial test fit (with complete engine parts) shows an acceptable fit... a final test fit of engine mount then... add a .05mm styrene card placed to recapture space lost from the "saw off" and give the repositioned engine mount some glue area... engine mount positioned and glued... styrene card shows "saw off" recovery... and the final fit is good...

Nice gun ports Eric, how about a close up of the wing tip: Jari

Having flown R/C, Id probably say not. Its surprisingly harder than it appears, and the muscle memory/hand eye coordination needed usually takes a bit to build up. That being said with practice comes perfection. However practice normally means crashing................ They make a series of really stout and more bulky trainers for just such a purpose: For about $50/£38.50, you can grab a trainer and have some fun practicing until you are good/confident enough to fly some of the higher scale fidelity models. Of course you would need the electronics/flight package for the trainer, but as Ive understood it, if you only wanted to buy a single flight package for the trainer, you could theoretically swap it into a different higher end model later.

Some more work. The hardest part of the conversion to get right was going to be the two cannon ports, one either side of the nose. I found a good clear shot of the port to enable me to trace around it using the Sillhouette Studio software. The trace line is in red. I refined the shape and sized it up for the model. The shape was then cut using Oramask 810, and applied to some thick plastic card. I drilled and filed the shape out. I extended some panel lines to enable me to position the ports correctly on either side of the nose. I then used the inner part of the mask to assist with sizing and position of each port. Using my JLC razor saw, I cut the four sides of the part out. This looks a bit brutal, but it is a very quick and easy way to get accurate and straight lines through some thick plastic over curved surfaces. The extra cut lengths are easily filled. The new part was laid into position to check for fit. Some plastic tube cut at a fine angle and then bent to assist the port to follow the curve of the fuselage. Part of the Zacto nose cone had to be ground away to allow the combined port to be shoehorned into position. I allowed the front of each port to be slightly proud of the fuselage to allow me to sand it to shape. Filled and sanded. The NACA vent that I filled earlier has been exposed, behind the port. I used some 2 part epoxy filler to blend the part together by packing it into the front of the port and then using a cotton bud moistened with Mr thinner to smooth it in.

Working on the rudder and elevators. Lots of fiddling to get these things close to right.Stay tuned. Dan

Thanks! and thanks for looking, I'm getting paint on and I'm thinking it's looking a little more convincing now. It did/ does take a lot of my intestinal fortitude to damage the kit in a way that there's no coming back from...short of sourcing new parts and starting over. I think I'm over (a) hump with the paint going on now. masking for the triangle and letter, the white is "dirtied" with a bit of Tamiya "desert yellow" and the blue was painted out of centre and in a washed out blue to (hopefully) give the impression of field applied, old paint. white overspray has been cleaned up left wing getting the works on mask removal I noted I hadn't gone far enough or, too lightly with the blue in some spots, easy to fix.

Hi all, Tailplanes have been puttied, scribed and riveted. As you can see "state of the art" alignment devices are being used. 5 minute epoxy is used to secure the joint. Dan

The antenna mast - a chapter of its own Well the vanished part hasn't magically reappeared, but the replacement from Revell arrived with miraculous speed. After spraying a thin black base the wooden part of the mast was brush painted with a sand colour. Afterwards I apllied a thin layer of burnt umber oil colour which was beforehand left to "bleed" on a cardboard palette. Using a stiff (read old) brush I added the grain. I'll let the oil colour cure for another day before the protective gloss coat will follow.

afternoon all ..that is a superb idea - I did look at doing it with my Spitfire and could only find one place in Canada that did small run and it was very expensive. I will look again though and if anyone has any ideas please let me know ..bit more done this weekend.. ..the First Aid kit and gunsight pad were made from milliput and lead wire, with brass for the straps (as they are held taught and need to loom like it..) ..I am not good at organic things like this.. ..painted up and although not great, I think they will have to do.. ..then moved on to the side and upper windows - all the catches & latches were prepared and two tiny pins added so I can pin one to the other at the right angle.. it has been a fraught day as I HATE working with transparencies - the knife edge of a terminal ****-up being so easy to do just frays my nerves.. ..I had left the protective film on so it was fairly straightforward to prep them and paint them.. ..also weathered a bit by rubbing wire wool and scuffing them a bit.. ..and with the film removed - there is a flaw in the top canopy where it didn't like bending to shape that has only been seen now the covers are off, but it just looks like a small crack so I am going to have to live with it.. ..and pinned together.. ..a few more bits need adding like hinges and some rubbing pads, but this is pretty much done so a quick dry fit.. ..the First Aid kit looks ok I guess.. that's it for now.. TTFN Peter

Some more work. I scratch built the small D shaped lump on the inside of each tank pylon. The pylon was sprayed with the light grey cam and then the dark green was applied approx. halfway along its length. I discovered that they were painted this way through viewing many photos. I have been experimenting with oil paints to add extra effects to the paint work. I added some blue spots to the uppermost panels of the burnt section, to simulate the reflection of the blue sky. This was blended in with a soft brush. It’s a very subtle effect but it’s there.

Round 2 will be releasing it later this year sometime. The Schwinn Stingray has already been re-issued, but I believe that's been available for a while now, and is a kit that I absolutely will have. I had tons of fun on my own Stingray when I was just a kid.

Yeeeeah... much, much better.

The Pirates kit is cool, and I sure remember the 10 speed.

My telephone bill. Thanks mate. So kind.

How's this Brad? I want to build the Danish jet. I take it that is cool? I just got these. Cheers mate.

And here is the I-16 on a ground plate: The model won a silver medal in the contest of last year's Euro Scale Modelling. I hope you like it. Cheers, Peter