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Sparzanza last won the day on October 11 2013

Sparzanza had the most liked content!

About Sparzanza

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  • Birthday 12/23/1984

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  1. I'm getting a new airbrush in a couple of days, and there's a high chance that I can finally finish this kit. All it needs is satin varnish on the bottom and some light weathering; maybe exhaust and gun soot and stuff like that. I am still on the hunt for a B decal for my Mustang as well, but once I get a hold of that - satin varnish, final weathering, and she too will stand completed. They both survived me moving apartments without any damage and are currently just hanging out in a cupboard so as to not attract dust.
  2. w/e not in the mood to look into forum changes atm
  3. Thanks, Mark. Here're the exhausts: And dryfitted: I still haven't varnished her underneath, but I'll get around to that when I can drag myself out of this seemingly endless hole of depression I've fallen into. EDIT: Ok, now the post ignores the IMG (I can't type [ i m g ] together as an example because the forum is stupid) put before the link, and thus you end up with forked up links. Enjoy. Screw you, forum.
  4. I painted the exhausts black, as a primer... then I painted them Humbrol 98 chocolate brown. Then I drybrushed Humbrol 55 bronze upon that... and finally drybrushed Humbrol 98 again on top of THAT. Trying to achieve a burnt iron look is very tricky, but I think I did alright. Will try to snap some good pictures in the sunlight later on.
  5. Spots sanded smooth, repainted, and glosscoated. Applied decals given to me by my brother; from the new release of the Spit - meaning Cartograph decals. These did not fail me. Glosscoated again. Applied a wash. Satin coated. When that's dry I will satin coat the bottom. When that is dry I will do the final weathering and call it done.
  6. Decals scraped off with an Xacto blade. You can also see the spots where I tried rubbing alcohol on them.
  7. I use Tamiya glue and even Humbrol sometimes. But if the canopy framing is too thin or non-existant, I use Mikro Kristal Klear instead. I like the stronger glues because it means the piece will sit better, I guess. I remember using Tamiya's extra thin cement to glue the windows on both of my 1/24 Willys Jeeps, which slides directly into the framing, and there was no fogging whatsoever. It's why I've come to trust strong cement for these tasks.
  8. Here's why I think it would be pointless to convert. The question is what exactly would the kit be if one opts not to do this? VB was it? So grey/green scheme? EDIT: no wait, 8 machineguns... Mk1 with VB prop. I guess. I am hopelessly confused.
  9. I didn't exactly plan to acquire the kit, Plasto - so it's not a question of wanting a better kit. It just arrived in the mail, sent by my brother. I normally don't touch 1/32 stuff, but since I now have it in my possession I figured I might as well throw it together. I won't be trying to convert it into anything since there's additional stuff needed and just leave it as a Mk1/VB/whatever with a pointy propeller and stubby nosecone.
  10. So basically no, not worth it. Thanks.
  11. I will try to explain better. I want to know if there's any point doing the conversion seeing as the Mk1/VB/whatever parts are still clearly visible even when putting the bulges and cannons on the wings. Like I said there'll still be 4 access hatches per wing for the machineguns, instead of what I assume should be like... 3? I want it fully accurate with the parts provided, or not at all.
  12. So there's no point trying to turn it into a proper Seafire? I'd really like to know this.
  13. My brother recently gave me Revell's Supermarine Seafire in 1/32 scale. It's a very old box; very old release... the decals are completely shot, but the rest of the kit is intact and complete. He told me how he acquired it, but I've forgotten. Anyway. I can't exactly see what differs this "Seafire" from a regular Spitfire Mk1. Three exhaust stacks on each side, 8 machineguns, one large intake underneath, one small.. the only thing I don't really recognize is the shape of its propeller (pointy blades), nosecone, as well as the rims that looks strange. The kit includes a separate sprue with extra parts that supposedly turns it into a Seafire. This includes two teardrop shaped things that supposedly goes on its wings (after drilling holes in them), as well as a large intake that I thought to be tropical. I think there's cannons for it as well. But will attaching these items truly turn it into a Seafire? The wings will still have 8 hatches in them, just with large blomps that sits smack in the middle of everything without exactly hiding anything. I guess my question is whether there's any point of trying to "convert" this seemingly regular Mk1 or if just building as is and paint as such will suffice.
  14. I left tape sitting over the decals over night, and not just ordinary masking tape, as it proved too weak. I used regular desktop (?) tape. The decals did not come off. I tried brushing undiluted T-röd alcohol over them, and ended up having paint removed WHILE THE ****ING DECALS STAYED PUT. The alcohol ate through the enamel varnish and into the Tamiya dark earth I had sprayed. I ended up scraping them off with an Xacto blade, leaving tons of scratches and white spots absolutely everywhere. There was no other way of removing them. I could use some more rotten piece of **** luck, anyone got some spare? While everything is already fubar for me I mean. Go on, come at me. It cannot possibly get any worse.
  15. Thanks for the tip. It's such a shame, the decals looks brand new on their sheet - all glossy and nice.
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