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About themongoose

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 08/20/1966

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    Cincinnati Ohio USA

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  1. Dave definitely interested in your experiences with 3D printing. I keep looking at them but haven’t pulled the trigger as i was afraid I wouldn’t have the time to learn it so know your insight would be helpful.
  2. Done! Had a last minute change of course. I needed to change how the Corsair was mounted. It was too unstable for me to give it to someone, it would have ended up crashing. Lesson learned on that one as it wanted to do a roll and dive in for an attack. Let's start with a realistic prop-blurr! An original Revel pilot...still looks a bit like a Russian nesting doll even after all teh surgery I did to him. And here's a video of the start-up of the radial engine with the lights and sound coming on in sequence. Click on these next 2 pics to see the videos. Here it is running full tilt... Ok that's it for this wonderful Father's Day! I have a few updates to make. You may have noticed the missing tail wheel. Originally the mounting rod left there, but with the change to keep it stable it looks rather empty. I may try and get it installed so it looks the part before I take it off to Akron tomorrow. If I do will include some updated pics in the RFI section. Speaking of which I will post pics up within the next couple days depending on how my schedule goes, and whether I tackle an update on this Corsair or not. Until then Happy Modeling all you Dads out there!
  3. Hey Craig thanks! The package I got is from Magic Scale Modeling. I ran across them at a show in London a few years ago. They are from Belgium. Lots oof different options. Check out the link, they make everything plug and play. Brian, yep these things are great. Have been watching your F-104 build with interest. I started with just some flickering LED’s for my F-4 and have expanded to the full set, similar to your build. What I’m trying to figure out is how to tone down some of the led’s so they are more realistic. For instance, the wingtip lights outshine the red and blue nav lights on the corsair. In retrospect I think i should have put the led back inside the wing so the light level wasn’t as intense. Like everything we do in modeling it's a learning experience!
  4. This is going to be a beauty! Nothing better than your esoteric builds thanks for throwing in some history too, most interesting.
  5. Woohoo this ranks as one of my best ever! It’s a good thing to because Uncle Dennis is an artist and I’m putting pressure on myself to make it worthy i took 3600 grit sanding sponge across all the markings in the direction of airflow. That was just enough to knock down the edge that was created by the tape and give them just a touch of wear. Lastly a satin clear and here you go... I had nearly zero leakage under the Maketar masks so thrilled with that too. Tomorrow I want to do some exhaust staing, finish the canopy, and add the long pitot on the wing to finish it up. Then put some trim on the base and I’m ready for the model club show on Monday and presentation to my Uncle on Tuesday.
  6. Yesterday and Today I’m working on the markings. I found VF653 in 1/32 scale from Draw Decals. It’s a special restored plane so Cleland's markings were only on 1 side and another ace was on the other. So what I’ve done is scan the decals and then print them out on my Maketar Mask paper. I found a close match to the navy font and added that to Word so I could print out a full set of numbers. Scaled everything to match the decal sheet and printed them out. I only have an inkjet printer so I have to print on the backside of the mask, that’s the dull side and the ink doesn’t rub iff. For lettering that means you have to mirror them because your printing on the back and cutting on the front. If it sounds confusing, it is and i had to do it twice to get the mirror right ;-) going to finish covering everything up after lunch. Hopefully by dinner she’s in her best dress!
  7. Here’s a few thoughts in both prop and jet categories depending on what you like to build. A clipped wing spit or mustang would be cool - in the category of avoids those compound curves. I’m doing an F-84G right now and the wing tanks are painted, not bare metal on the one I’m modeling so that avoids the compound curves as well. An F-100 may fit the bill as well. Brian’s got tons of advice on here and you can check out my post in the WIP forum as well for advice everyone has posted on my first try at it. By-the-by, Airbrushing the adhesive using alcohol to dilute it has netted me the single biggest improvement in my work and the way the model looks. chris
  8. Ha! Love this question. I have one case where I don’t even own the kit yet and I’ve spent more in aftermarket on it! Hopefully my AH-1Z will be an award winner some day haha
  9. I’m definitely going to try this. Might as well while I’m trying to figure out the bleach concentration. This is turning into a fun science project
  10. Brian thanks for the advice! Looking at your notes it sounds like my mix is way way too strong. I’m traveling for work this week so I’ll start my experiments next weekend! I did start working on the wings today. I’m planning on using the colorized foil around the engine and the underside. Looking at pictures on the F-84G Thunderbirds the metal is more of a satin finish. I looked at the F-100 and it looks pretty glossy. Also, the panels seem pretty consistent. I grabbed about a dozen pics that show some different panels in terms of colors and texture. I used 0000 steel wool and 800 grit sandpaper for different grain. and adding the “chrome” leading edges. Here I used the shiny side of the foil.
  11. Ok, I’m confused and need some advice. Every piece I’ve tried so far comes out with holes in it. Last night i did just 5 minutes in a 50/50 diluted solution and i still have holes. 3 grades of foil, although no heavy duty foil. Used reynolds wrap, and 2 different thin cheap dollar store brands. I’m using the kroger brand splashless bleach. Could that be my problem?
  12. Haha, here’s a post earlier than expected. I think you’ll find this as funny as I do. So for a little humor at my expense check out my foil...after reading Brian’s last post I got to thinking, I only used water to rinse them off. This morning I noticed the surface looked a little gritty but just thought I’d need to clean them off tonight. After returning home tonight I grabbed the foil and took it down to the workroom to clean it off with ISO. no need to bother, it is perfect for creating a starfield for a space model that wasn’t grit, it was the sharp edge of holes where the reaction kept going. Back to the drawing board tomorrow!
  13. Now that I'm getting into the details I'm coming up with questions as I go. DO you guys rinse these off with water right after you take them out of the bleach? Should I wipe them down with 91% ISO before applying the adhesive or should they be fine as long as I am wearing gloves when handling?
  14. Guys this is great! Will start on a few new pieces of foil tonight after I take my daughter to the banana split festival Wings over the weekend will be my goal. I’ll watch for more ideas here and report back on how I’m progressing.
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