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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/18/2019 in all areas

  1. 7 points

    Salute to Peter Castle (Airscale)

    Although miscaptioned as a P-51, you'll recognize it as Peters' Mk XIVe. https://www.modelmotorcars.com/peter-castle-uk-1-18-scale-p51-mustang/ Sincerely, Mark
  2. 7 points

    Tempest Mk.V Special Hobby 1:32

    After a few models of heavily tired aircraft. This time the model of the aircraft without strong weathering. Tempest Mk.V Special Hobby 1:32 Scale The model is not very easy to build, so I don't recommend it to less experienced modelers.
  3. 6 points
    Jennings Heilig

    Tamiya 1/48 Il-2M3

    About 90% of this build was completed in one day - not reflective of my skills, but rather of the astounding quality of engineering, design, and tooling that Tamiya has achieved with their recent kits. The old phrase “it builds itself” is almost literally true in this case. Superlatives escape me. It’s just nearly perfect. Anyway, I finally got some paint on her today. Hopefully I’ll have some time this weekend to start putting some color on her. Doing the markings carried by the Flying Heritage & Combat Armor Museum’s airworthy airplane based at Paine Field in Everett, Washington. J
  4. 6 points

    Königstiger 1/1

    Weekend trip to a tank museum "around the corner". lucky me that I also like Tanks. more pictures Link: King Tiger museum site Swiss Tank Museum
  5. 6 points

    It's Big & It's Heavy

    Latest completion is the Trumpeter 1/32 P-47N Thunderbolt "2 Big and To Heavy/Short Snorter" of 333rd FS/318th FG, April 1945, Le Shima, Ryukyu Islands. Used Zotz Decals, AMS Resin wheels, Master Model gun barrels and Eduard seat belts. Otherwise OOB. Jerry
  6. 5 points
    Cockpit is very sparse from the box, so a bit of scratching is required... I'm not going into crazy detailling but just basic stuff Default offer: Some bits added And being painted .... More work required and i'll revert to the original radio channel selector (top right) which is too large. The Airfix kit part will be better. The airscale placards decals will come in handy
  7. 5 points
    You mask off the clear parts and prime your Il-2 Shturmovik with white primer - before you remember to prime the clear parts with the cockpit color.
  8. 5 points

    Junkers D1 Speed Build FINISHED!!

    DAYs 4-7 I have completed the interior and am now ready to close up the fuselage. As one would expect fit was excellent!! The seat was painted in artists oil paint to replicate the leather on the real item, Wingnuts belts were used. I have always used Wingnut belts on wingnut builds, I really like them and don't feel the need to use aftermarket items in this area. Next time I should be able to show you guys an airframe!! Thanks for stopping by.
  9. 5 points
    Jennings Heilig

    HK Models Spey Phantom Update

    Just had an email from Neil. The Spey Phantom is not dead.
  10. 4 points


    I Feel The Need, The Need For...………………………………….
  11. 4 points
    Miniart has new kit in development 1/35 AVRO 671 ROTA MK.I RAF jan https://miniart-models.com/products/41008-avro-671-rota-mk-i-raf/
  12. 4 points


    and yet Graham at Iconicair says exactly the opposite ie it doesn't necessarily *have* to be like this with resin kits.... I have read enough on here to know that irrespective of the subject, I would never touch a HPH resin kit; I'm not that good a modeller, and my life is too short and I have too many kits that I really want to build. I am open minded about HPH's foray into the injection moulded world, but am hoping for something better than Fly's Hurricane for instance (again, life too short etc etc).
  13. 4 points

    You might be a dips**t if....

    That's nothing I masked off a windscreen , pulled the tape off and painted the part your not suppose to paint Don
  14. 3 points
    After 7 months of work, the Albatros D.Va (OAW) is finally complete...The build is based on the Wingnut Wings kit and finished as Hans Von Gössel's flying skull, circa mid 1918. The kit was extensively modified in order to make the small details more accurate. Additions were Bo Monroe's 3D printed wing radiator and Fuel tank, HGW Models textile harnesses and Yahu photoetch instruments. I completely scratchbuilt the air valve assembly behind the starboard instrument panel and linked the piping based on the NASM plans for the restored Albatros (the restoration book was of tremendous help with the plans and detail photos). The kit received a new windcreen made from thermoformed clear acetate to thin it to scale, and the coaming was modified to add wrinkles and retaining washers for the leather. Master brass jackets were used for the Spandaus. For the engine, i had run out of Taurus resin overhead cam so i just scratchbuilt the valve springs, the induction manifold was wrapped with teflon tape and the heat shields were made from lead sheet and MENG styrene bolts. Taurus resin spark plugs were used and everything wired using Modelkasten rubber thread. Rexx metal exhaust attached. The Niendorf propeller was my first hand carved propeller and i used different veneer sheets and then coated it with MR. Paint clear. The wooden fuselage is finished with Knotless decals from Uschi van der Rosten and a few filters. The decals are just flawless in their application and in the result you get. I initially had the rigging attachment points 3D designed and printed by my friend and ALM Studios team mate Imad Bouantoun, but they turned out too big due to their hollow nature and limitations on SLA printing so i ended up scratchbuilding those using styrene and thermoforming the domes with styrene sheet to be able to use the Gaspatch Models albatros specific turnbuckles. Rigging tubing is from Bob's Buckles and rigging is done with EZ-Line thin. The lozenge linen is Aviattic and is superb as are all the linen decal series from that manufacturer... Alot of additions and scratchbuilt items which would be too long for me to itemize here, or which i might have forgotten over the period of time since. The figure is to give a sense of scale and was painted by my friend and ALM Studios team mate Bernard Bassous. You can find all the juicy details in the build log . Id like to thank everyone who encouraged me to push the envelope so to speak. As i mentioned on the wip log, it looks like the stars were aligned for this one! Thanks again, Stay safe and happy modeling! Karim
  15. 3 points
    Hey Chris...I certainly will let you know if I need any information etc.....thank you very much! Just to let you know that my B17G was featured as a small back page article in the 447th BG Newsletter by Steve Heeb (Ol'scrapiron) Fozzy
  16. 3 points


    My issue really isnt with the resin parts, and/or having to sand them down, that comes with the territory on all resin kits. Its the build methodology and the horrible, horrible mistakes that should have been taken care of at the factory, of the two (so far) HpH kits Ive built. That and the resin pool method that is unlike any other resin kit I've built. I'm not sure how many if any other HpH kits have similar issues, but if you have ever attempted the HpH Tiger cat at the very least it has big problems. And they aren't the type of problems that should come with any kit, resin or otherwise. Just plain stupid mistakes made in tooling and molding that should never have been there in the first place. Just take a gander through my F7F build thread, and you will see the many issues encountered, and anyone who has built resin kits in the past will know those are NOT the kind of things one finds in the average (or any) resin kit I know of. I can only hope their Me-410, La-7 dont have the same issues, but from what I have seen here, it appears the Tigercat may be the only one to have the major issues I speak of. I have the La-7 too, and will be building it. I would most certainly give any HpH IM kit a chance. It makes way, way more sense of financially workable for the company, and the likelihood of having to remove parts from a resin pool goes down substantially I would think with an IM kit (if resin parts are in fact included)
  17. 3 points
    Proper Plane

    Proper Plane wooden propellers

    Hi there! We are glad to show you our big Wolff. This propeller and hub set as a suitable replacement for the Wingnut Wings model of the LVG C.VI (32002 options B C E), DFW C.V (32040 A B D E), DFW C.V (32057 E) and any other aircraft installed with the Benz Bz.IV aeroengine. This propeller is now available for purchase in our web store.
  18. 3 points
    Hi everyone, the extra Pe arrived a few days ago so sets are ready to sell. email me at aimsmodels1@gmail.com if interested. Thanks
  19. 3 points
    Pastor John

    AIMS W.Gr 21 rockets

    Hi everyone, the PE has arrived and so I now have my own 1/32 W.Gr 21 rocket set - like I said before - wish I had done this from the start instead of using other peoples products. Anyway email me at aimsmodels1@gmail.com if interested. Price is £6.00 and they will also from now on be included in the 'Graf Special' conversion. Many thanks
  20. 3 points
    Here it is finally finished ... the paintings ak real are great to use ... a little rest and zou it will be necessary that I finish the other 109! A huge thank you to Vincent Kermorgan and jean-claude Mermet for their invaluable help! See more on my FB's page: https://www.facebook.com/125768474675320/posts/431152264136938/
  21. 3 points


    Maybe you all got unlucky, then, but I found building the HPH Hornet no more difficult than any other resin or multi-media kit ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
  22. 3 points

    You might be a dips**t if....

    Welcome to the club.
  23. 3 points
    WE are back, later Kitty Hawk
  24. 3 points
    The BUFF has had some more work done on the engines - I've sanded and shaped the home-made upper, over-wing parts of the pylons and all look good under some primer: DSC_0186 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0187 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0190 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr Shaping the pylons on the underside was a lot more tricky as they are all molded identical, but of course the inner pylons have a very different shape due to the change in shape as you travel down the length of the wing: DSC_0201 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr I've also finished detailing the rear of the bypass sections: DSC_0195 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0199 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr It was a bit of a faff opening these up but worth the effort. And we now have something really taking on the form of the venerable BUFF: DSC_0205 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0192 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr As you can see, however, the tail feathers are conspicuous by their absence... better get sanding! Until next time, Tom
  25. 3 points
    I though the above cartoon is pretty representative of what is to come The MkVb boxing provides the clipped wingtips and although Spit IX from the 349 had all sorts of different configurations during their activity, the one I am building has the clipped wings. So out with the saw and the default wingtips were cut. Fitting of the clipped wingtip is far from being a no putty operation, and curiously the parts fit better when I switched the parts number from the instructions. I also had to adapt the cut according to the aileron to ensure the wingtips were properly aligned with the trailing edge of the ailerons. The early clipped wings were done in wood and had no position lights - but PT723 clearly sports the light. Luckily, Airfix provided transparent parts for them. Fitting is not perfect either, but that can be very easily overcome. I'll attach them later on. The wing is now complete & ready for priming. Most of the panels were puttied, as were the clipped wingtips. The rivets were toned down by light sanding. Now I can really start this model by working on the cockpit
  26. 2 points

    Forgotten War Mustang

    I've always been fascinated by the Korean War. It was a bloody conflict that in many ways was a precursor to Vietnam, where the majority of the folks in the US (unless they had a father, husband or son serving) paid little attention to it. This was in stark contrast to WW2 where the entire nation was involved and engaged in the war effort. Another interesting thing was that the equipment used was mix of cutting edge technology and WW2 leftovers. Specifically regarding WW2 leftovers, we have the F-51D Mustang. 5 years before, the Mustang was the F-22 Raptor of WW2. Arguably the best fighter of that war (especially when you factor it's amazing range into the equation), in Korea this thoroughbred was simply an expendable bomb truck. Many aircraft lost their puttied wings, which provided a few extra MPH due to laminar flow, many others lost even more performance when the USAF opted to lock it's tailwheel in the down position to reduce maintenance issues from mud and ice building up in the tail gear bay. In the end, performance no longer mattered and these once cutting-edge aircraft were simply fed into the operational squadrons, used until lost or scrapped and then replaced by others. The aircraft were no longer waxed and polished for maximum performance, instead, they were left outdoors in truly horrible weather conditions and apparently, little effort being made to clean them. Part of this was probably due to the tempo of missions. Instead of flying long range escort missions maybe once per week as they did in WW2, weather permitting, these Mustangs often flew 3-4 times per day. This tempo also took it's toll, Mustangs (and their pilots) were lost at a horrific rate. Many have argued that the Mustang had no place in this conflict as a close air support aircraft, due to it's light construction and especially it's liquid cooled engine. The underside of the Mustang was a maze of coolant piping and a single rifle round in this area would result in the Mustang being lost as it's critical engine coolant rapidly leaked out. The P-47 would have been a much better fit but in the cold logic of warfare, it was determined that there were more Mustangs available, so these aircraft were pulled from state-side ANG units and sent to war again. That being said, these aircraft and their pilots performed heroically under extremely challenging conditions. The F-51 was basically just a re-designated P-51 with a few changes. There are some threads in the General Discussion Forum that go into much greater detail but a few things differentiated these aircraft from their WW2 counterparts - All F-51D's had mounting points for 6 x 5" HVAR rockets. Many (possibly all) had the battery relocated from behind the pilot to the engine compartment and in these cases, a cooling air scoops as added to the side of the fuselage. Many (but certainly not all) had "cuff-less" propeller blades. Many (but certainly not all) had additional radios and IFF gear mounted behind the pilot, on top of the fuselage fuel tank. Many (but not all) had the putty removed from their wings during rebuilding at USAF maintenance depots prior to being sent overseas. Lastly some also had cooling louvers retrofitted on the fuselage sides, behind the wing root. I think those changes pretty much cover it. I'll provide more details and some illustrations once I get into the build. Moving onto the model, at this stage I think I'll be replicating Little Beast II, a hard-serving F-51D assigned to the 12th Fighter Bomber Squadron in mid-1952. Not 100% sure on this, got plenty of time to figure this out. Here she is taxing out for yet another combat mission. She's armed with a standard load of 2 500 lb bombs and 6 HVARS (the other standard loadout consisted of two napalm tanks and 6 HVARs) and appears to have her tailwheel locked down. For this kit, I'll be using the Tamiya Pacific Version P-51D kit, along with AIMS Korean War Mustang decals (sadly, I believe these are the only decals of Korean War markings out there, another indication that Korea is still the "forgotten war") and a bunch of Barracuda resin upgrades. I'll provide details on all the AM bits later. My biggest concern is going to be the NMF finish on these aircraft. I've always struggled with this and in the case of these Korean War birds, it's going to be compounded by trying to replicate the extreme weathering they were subjected to. Here is a great example: Note the high degree of filth and also note how dull and weathered the metal finish is. Looks more like dull, grimy grey instead of the shiny, immaculate finish seen on most WW2 Mustangs. The pic above also does a nice job of showing those cooling louvers retrofitted behind the wing root and the additional radio gear behind the pilots seat. If anyone has tips for replicating this type of finish, please let me know!! Anyway, that's pretty much it for now. One last note - this is going to be a looong build. I'm inherently lazy and my modeling time is always limited. I'll post updates when I can. Thanks for looking!
  27. 2 points


    Nice! despite all the fun made of the original, I liked it. Its a movie, and generally they are supposed to be entertaining. As long as they dont load up on the CGI, I think it could be entertaining.
  28. 2 points
  29. 2 points
    Peter's work is amazing and seeing No.80 at Telford was truly inspiring. His work has certainly made me think and stretch myself at times and try doing a few scratch built bits and pieces but he makes it look just so easy. The other aspect of his work that I love is when all of us mere mortals are posting replies to one of his updates saying how very fine it is and next thing we know he has ripped it all apart and done it all again as he was not quite 100% happy with his work. Long may he continue with the wonderful work he shows to us all. Regards. Andy
  30. 2 points

    Short Sunderland MkII

    I know, I know... I’ve been sidetracked by my 1/48th B-52 project, and at the moment that is having to take priority due to the fact I’ve got a deadline to meet for a book. When the Buff is complete, the Sunderland will be back on the bench. Tom
  31. 2 points

    Tamiya 1/48 Il-2M3

    Nice! Make sure you paint the cockpit color prior to painting the white primer.
  32. 2 points

    20th Anniversary Monthly Raffles!

    Congratulations, my old friend! I'm sure that in your hands will be a wonderful plane! Cheers, Paulo.
  33. 2 points
    Thanks John! Well, I plan on doing an armada of Spitfires and two or three will be built from the Tamiya kit which is too expensive for all Spits I'm planning to do. I really fear to tackle the Rvell Mk.II kit which will need raised rivets on the rear fuselage instead of simply filling those huge holes.
  34. 2 points
    A little work on landing gear last night. MRP medium sea grey, Molotov liquid chrome, with a little weathering from brown and black colors, followed by panel line wash. The tires are the kit parts, seam lines scraped and weathering completed with fine sanding stick. I think the tires look quite good, although hard to give a weighted appearance. A final dullcoat was given after these pictures were taken.
  35. 2 points
    its up on the ZM website jan and new base for Ki-45
  36. 2 points

    You might be a dips**t if....

    When doing jets, I usually leave the all-moving tailplanes off for painting. On an F-104 I masked the camouflage pattern, then painted the wrong way round - grey where the green was supposed to be and vice-versa. "The person who never made a mistake never made anything." - I'd attribute that quote if I could remember who it was.
  37. 2 points
    Thanks gentlemen Made a resin copy of the main wheel with the tread and increased diameter. Aslo a picture to show the difference compared to the original size of the standard kit wheel. Cheers
  38. 2 points

    F-14 Phoenix pallets in 1/32...

    Is there a U.S. owner of the Trumpeter kit willing to "loan" me a set of forward pallets? Please send me a PM. TIA Update below... !
  39. 2 points

    Tempest Mk.V Special Hobby 1:32

    The main problems are matching elements. This model is made straight from the box without resin parts.
  40. 2 points
  41. 2 points

    You might be a dips**t if....

    It's a big club too.
  42. 2 points


    I have many HpH kits, including the Tigercat and the infamous Walrus and unfortunately IMHO Deans assessment is spot on. The kits are wonderful looking as to surface detail and inclusions in the kit, those are facts. The details cant be beat, and you really dont need to add much of anything to their kits, and that includes PE. Their new hard copy manuals are really a nice bump up, and the new IP decal process they have is really ground breaking and works to a tee. Plus generally their kits are very accurate (to my knowledge anyway) and you get kits that no one else is putting out. However.......................... When you have a $300 + kit that has issues, and I dont mean small fit issues, I mean a complete mis-mold at the factory issues to where panels on the upper and lower halves of wings dont line up. Im not talking off by .003mm or anything, Im talking off by more than 2mm or 3mm. Then things like one (random, sometimes both) nacelle filled at the tip completely with resin. Or having to drill two 1/8th" holes directly through a completed fuselage full of details you just put in. Then when engaging the manufacturer (respectfully) about a replacement or possible fix to basically be told "that's the way it is" tends to put one off a small bit. Every manufacturer has some issues with their kits, but honestly if you have ever attempted to build an HpH kit all the way to fruition, you know even without any major issues that should have been taken care of at the factory, the kits really tend to sap ones "modeling will". The practice of putting a trillion and one very tiny parts, all on sections of resin "pool" sheets really makes for parts that may (or many not) be accurate in height or width, depending on which end is situated in the resin pool. The pool sheets are indeed very thin, but the act of taking off, sanding, shaping, filling and more sanding on the engine cylinders alone (40 in total with 4 extra as you needed them as is natural with resin, some mis-formed) on my F7F was about enough to drive me round the bend. And I have more desire/passion for that airframe than ANY other too. This is not meant to be disparaging to nor meant as a slight at HPH as a manufacturer, its simply my personal experience.
  43. 2 points
    Jennings Heilig

    Real A-10 in black primer

    Radar absorbent on an A-10? Hahahahahahahaha!!!!!!!!! That thing's got a radar cross section the size of New England!
  44. 2 points
    Thanks! I'm humbled. No one's ever used masterpiece in the same sentence as my models. Thank you very much. :) Paint is done. Now it's on to weathering proper. Once she's done, I'll take proper pictures, but for now, my phone will have to do.
  45. 2 points

    Junkers D1 Speed Build FINISHED!!

    DAY 3 A small update this time. The engine is complete, painted in Alclad and then given a coat of MIG neutral wash to grime it up a bit. I wired up the first 2 cylinders on the port side as these will be the only visible cylinders once the engine covers go on. I have also completed the dash. Next time I hope to have the internals together and get the fuselage halves together. thanks for looking in.
  46. 2 points

    Junkers D1 Speed Build FINISHED!!

    Thanks guys!! on to DAY 2 I have painted much of the interior, After undercoating with Tamiya rattle can fine surface primer all parts got a solid coat of SMS black followed by Alclad aluminium. Hairspray was applied prior to Gunz RLM 02 then the 02 was chipped. Details were picked out with tamiya enamel. A light wash with Mig neutral wash finished up the parts. Cables added from lead wire More to follow, thanks for stopping in.
  47. 2 points

    Wedding pics!

    Thanks all! So far, as with our relationship pre wedding, we always seem to have fun, and the "team" aspect of the marriage so far is prevalent for sure, and I really enjoy it.
  48. 1 point


    Personally I don't attribute the downside of HpH kits to just being the "nature of the beast" so-to-speak. Ive built a TON of resin kits for myself and for customers from Planet Models, to Silver Wings, FM&P, & HpH, to Montex, RB Productions, Icaerodesign more I'm sure I've left out. All as has been mentioned have similar traits, and commonalities, and all parts to some degree need finish sanding or prep for paint sanding but none of them destroyed my will to continue on them like an HpH kit does, and none of them require the same type of work as an HpH kit does. Silver Wings, FM&P, RB Productions, Icaerodesign and even Planet Models (at least the 3 that Ive built) were an absolute joy to build and assemble, and the parts normally fit (with the 1 memorable exception being the Planet Models XF5U) to near IM level. Wondrous kits, and I thoroughly enjoyed most all of them. Its way different building and HpH kit IMHO than any of the above mentioned kits. Don't get me wrong, I will continue to build and possibly even buy more from HpH as mentioned above, they put out subjects that cant be had anywhere else in our scale, and if you have the passion for a model or airframe, it can sometimes power you through an otherwise tough build.
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    I have Mr Parker’s guide to modelling the HK 1/32 B-17G. The guide in my opinion is excellent, lavishly illustrated and his scratch building details namely the top turret , ( prior to the B-17 E-F release) are exceptional and consistently so. The interior colour is the only area where there may be some doubt, and as other’s have pointed out , is almost always natural metal -alclad. I say almost because fuselages etc were cannibalised from other forts which may have been finished in interior green as they came off the production line before the interior paint finish was cancelled....mid 1943? I forget the exact date. Roger Freeman’s excellent book on the Fortress provides all the modifications and dates as they were implemented. The interior ( B-17G)was left natural metal, as was the outside which had an advantage of saving weight, hence a slightly faster true airspeed, plus saving of production time and costs. In reality, the other more sobering reason was simply due to the aircraft not lasting long enough in combat for there to be any corrosion concerns. Of curious note in Mr Freeman’s book is the surprising mod of pouring concrete into the top turret mounting pintle to prevent turret fires caused by electrical wire chaffing as the turret rotated. As ever, check your references, there is plenty of contemporary photographic evidence showing the natural metal finish interiors. The cockpit area is the exception which shows the deep green colour ( not US interior green). If you can find Mr Parker’s guide to building the B-17G, I still thoroughly recommend it. p-t
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