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moldmkr78 last won the day on March 31 2015

moldmkr78 had the most liked content!

About moldmkr78

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    LSP Junkie
  • Birthday 09/16/1959

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    Classic Mustangs, 180 gal Saltwater Reef Tank, 1/32 WWII Props and Cold War Jets.
    As a plastic injection mold maker for 26 years and currently a plastics engineer for a large printer manufacturer, I can truly appreciate the level of fit and detail achievable with today's manufacturing processes.
  1. Don't mean to hijack the thread, but I was in the Old City of Jerusalem last night! I thought some of you might find these interesting. These were taken on my first trip to Israel in January 2016. Church of the Holy Sepulcher / Where he was nailed to the cross Alter of the Crucifixion The actual spot where the cross was placed The Western Wall (HaKotel) and the Dome of the Rock Taken last night (June 12, 2017) The Western Wall
  2. I've owned 12 Mustangs in my life, beginning with a Wimbledon White 65 6 cyl coupe as my first car at 16, to my current ride, a 2008 Highland Green Bullit, number 5484. I LOVE my car!
  3. I've owned 12 Mustangs in my life, beginning with a Wimbledon White 65 6 cyl coupe as my first car at 16, to my current ride, a 2008 Highland Green Bullit, number 5484. I LOVE my car!
  4. While doing research for my 2nd bomber, I found these pics of the unrestored Memphis Belle taken in 1979. You can find lots of good pics showing what was painted and what wasn't http://aircraftwalkaround.hobbyvista.com/b-17_mbelle/b-17_mbelle.htm For mine, I am painting the nose, cockpit and radio room, the bomb bay and waist will be NMF with random ribs and whatnot painted. I just cannot see them sending out planes without painted cockpits or front nose, I would think the glare would be horrible from the unpainted aluminum.
  5. 3.66 inches scales to .114 inches (one-hundred and fourteen thousandths of an inch) in 1/32 scale. Less than an 1/8 of an inch (.125). I am soon to be starting my second one and I can't bring myself to perform major surgery on a kit that cost over $300.00 for .114. YMMV.
  6. Well, I pulled the trigger and received mine last week. It was a "it's better to ask for forgiveness than to ask for permission" buy, but nonetheless, I am the proud owner of my 2nd HK B-17 (and a yit-ton of Eduard stuff). I had so much fun building the first one, I plan to start on the 2nd as soon as I finish the Yamato that's on the bench now. It will look awesome on the tarmac next to my D-Day Doll. At least I don't have to spend $100.00 on 13 bottles of Alclad this time. -Scott
  7. Hey, I like large scale replicas as well as the next LSP'er. I'm just not going to stress over details that varied from plane to plane depending on the maintenance crew, the ground crew, the flight crew, or basically anyone else that touched the aircraft during it's service. I also understand molds and mold making. It's not as easy as some would think to change any detail of any model without major repercussions with every part that touches the changed part. Considering that HK probably has close to a million dollars in tooling for this model, I'm just happy that we have a 1/32 B-17 that prett
  8. You know what? I'm gonna build another one because it was fun building the first one. Everything else is secondary.
  9. Take a look at my build. I used every PE set except the flaps. I also used the Profimodeller LG and the Brassin wheels. I don't think the engines are necessary as the kit engines build up really nice, especially with the added PE. When I build the new F model, I will use all of the same sets. In addition to the fun that is PE, I think they really add a lot to the model. http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=53093&hl= http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=55650&hl=
  10. I would recommend the Bomb Bay too. It adds a lot!
  11. On my D-Day Doll, I used every set except the flaps. When I build the new F model, I will use every set again. I feel that the PE adds a level of realism that is noticeable even in a closed up model. -Scott
  12. The change to the fuselage would ripple through a lot more parts than just the fuse. You can't just change the one thing without changing every piece that attaches to it. Plus, there isn't 1 in 1000 people left alive that could point out the error. I wouldn't change it either if I were them.
  13. Again, sort of. Many textures, such as Zimmerit on a tank, or rippled surfaces, while possible with an EDM, is done using a photo etch process. This process, along with EDM, can be used to create many different types of surface detail. You still have issues when you get to the near vertical surfaces. Just look at any rivet detail, or any other detail at the near vertical surface of a fuselage. All of the detail has a slightly elongated appearance because of the need to not have any undercuts in the cavity side of the mold. The detail cannot be perpendicular to the base surface. There are limit
  14. Sort of. The first part is right. Back in the 70's when I started building molds, a pantograph was used to create most fine details in a mold. Raised rivets in the plastic were made by small drill points, divots, in the steel. This is easy enough on the wings or other horizontal surfaces. The only problem is when it got to near vertical such as on the center of a fuselage. If the divots were put in perpendicular to the surface of the cavity, the "rivets" would either shear off when the mold opened and the part stayed on the B side (ejector side) or the part would stick in the A side (cavity) o
  15. I used Profimodeller machined aluminum legs on my B-17. I will use them again.
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