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About Bstarr3

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 09/11/1979

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    Chapel Hill, NC

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  1. Some more progress! Beginnings of the diorama base started here. A wooden base from Michael's, and homemade mud. Soil from my back yard, playground sand, white glue, and a little water. The rock in the top corner and there little crater in the bottom, along with tracks for the wheels, made in sculpey with the mud mix applied over the top. The boards are coffee stirrers cut to size. I plan to leave this to dry for a few days, then will paint. Finished figures. Well, almost. I've had these set aside for a while and forgot that the last guy still needs a hat. The head came from the kit with a very obviously German looking cap, so I plan to make him an RAF style peaked cap out of milliput.
  2. I've developed an issue with my HS Evo CR. I'm getting bubbling back into the cup as soon as air flows, which goes down a little with pulling the needle back, but it doesn't matter because the paint's splattered out of the cup and all over by then. Obviously some part is messed up, but my question is which part? Do I need to replace the nozzle, needle, both? Are there any orings or seals that could cause this issue? I just did a complete teardown clean with lt which did not resolve the issue. Thanks for input!
  3. I went and saw it by myself yesterday morning. Just me and another solo middle aged guy in the theater . I loved it. Yes there were inaccuracies small and large, and the action sequences were definitely overdone. Would have been interesting to see the CGI dialed back about 50% for a more realistic effect. I agree they compressed the actual battle to the point that they had to cut some things out. However, the screenwriters obviously wanted to tell a cohesive story of the 7 months from Pearl to Midway, which means the actual battle had to be somewhat truncated, or else it would have been 3 hours long. One ommission that I don't understand, however, is Dusty Kleiss. He was on board the Enterprise as a member of scouting 6, and received the Navy Cross for his actions on 6/4. Especially since they mentioned that Best was "one of only two pilots to score direct hits on multiple carriers in the war", I thought it strange that they didnt even mention the second. Actually, if you look at the roster of pilots in the ward room, his name isn't even mentioned among the squadron. I wonder if for some reason his family didnt authorize the use of his name and likeness for the film.
  4. And now for everybody's favorite part - figure painting! These MasterBox figures are very well done for plastic. The guy crouching down is from the Tamiya set. Molding is nice on the body but not as crisp on the face. I did some work with the dremel and microchisel to better define things and remove extra plastic, eg, under the collar. Cleaned up all the mold lines and assembled them from different combinations of heads/legs/bodies. A little milliput and Mr Surfacer 500 to fill in gaps. Instead of a primer, I put a light coat of MRP light wood, just enough to get a background shade so I’m not trying to cover grey. Then the flesh tones are done in oil paints. I use Abeitelung flesh color, along with burnt sienna, white, and burnt umber for the hair. I mix up a couple shades of darker and lighter colors and just blended things together as appropriate. I used a soft brush to blend in some of the highlights and lowlights. After getting under the magnifying glass, I saw that this guy has a little Hitler mustache molded in. I decided to go with it, but extended it out a little bit. The pictures aren’t great, but I’m happy with the results. I plan to do the clothing in acrylics. Two more to go!
  5. I know it looks really dirty, but this squadron in this theater is pretty well documented photographically, and it looks like they got pretty damn dirty! I was disappointed when I got this kit because I'd asked for the Mk IX and wanted to do Skalski's plane from Libya. I went looking for subjects of the VIII, and as soon as I saw those leaping Panthers, I was sold! Thanks much, John and Brian! Positive feedback means a lot coming from you
  6. Thanks, all! I love adding mud effects. Really adds a third dimension to weathering.
  7. Wow, what a long time it's been since I posted on this! As late summer gave way to the beginning of the school year, I had less time for work on this project, and when I could get an hour, I never got around to setting up and taking in progress shots. The painting was done with MRP colors, black basing technique, and camo drawn freehand. After that I did a little post shading, decals, then oil weathering, with washes and filters. Wing root and leading edge chipping were done with a 3-0 brush and dark metallic grey and silver colors. Chipping/wear on the propeller was done by painting the whole thing dark anodic grey, then painting the AMT-6 black, and sanding back to the metallic grey color along the edges and back of the blades. I'll add a better shot of the backside of the propeller blades to show this effect more. I used the same sanding effect for the nose cone, and also sanded away some of the white on the theater stripes. Oil staining on the undersurface again done with artist's oils. Mud weathering in the gear bays and tires done with dark earth pigments and thinned Gator Grip glue. Splatter effect by thinning pigments with enamel thinner and flicking brush bristles with a finger. The airfields in Burma were muddy and it was constantly raining. Tried to demonstrate the effects this tropical weather had on the airframes with heavy weathering. Squadron insignia is from Barracudacals. Really blended into the paint scheme beautifully, especially with weathering over the top of the decals. My first fully painted item for the diorama is the wooden table from the Tamiya tank maintenance crew set in 1/35. Painted in MRP ochre wood and oils over. This is the approximate composition of the diorama. I'll be building a base from Styrofoam depicting a muddy airfield. The figures are from the Tamiya kit and another one from Master Box depicting a mechanic crew working on a motorcycle. Put together three figures by combining legs, heads and torsos from the kits. All other diorama items besides the figures come from Tamiya. Hmm. Something missing here....
  8. I think he's the best. Some others, like Scale-a-ton, Hangar 182, are very good, but I think he has the best combination of modelling and video skill. The production quality of his videos is consistently excellent.
  9. https://www.independent.co.uk/news/world/americas/rv-petrel-battle-midway-kaga-wreck-aircraft-carrier-ww2-paul-allen-a9161481.html
  10. I subscribe to plasmo and love every one of his videos. He does some amazing things with car kits too. Again, nothing special, but really impressive the finishes he gets with clear coats and polishing. He has a diorama of an abandoned russian tank that is really impressive
  11. My problem with the tops on the new bottles is that I've never gotten them to squeeze out a drop appropriately. The bottle itself is too hard to really squeeze effectively, but the paint doesn't drip out of the dropper top without some help. Mostly it just run down along the side and gets on my fingers. I've just gone back to unscrewing the lid and using a dropper like I do for the glass bottles. Mission Models still has the best bottles, as far as I'm concerned.
  12. Has anyone gotten a bottle of MRP lately from HobbyWorldUSA? I ordered some and thought I got the wrong thing because they shipped in plastic bottles instead of glass. They also don't have the BB in them for mixing, and have a dropper top that is not conducive to the viscosity of the paint. Very unhappy with this change in packaging.
  13. I was surprised how well taken care of the seams were by the time I got my primer coat on. Only a very little remedial sanding was necessary to remove some excess filler. I have always used Badger Stynylrez for my primer. It sprays ok straight out of the bottle, but I have had much more success recently by adding some Vallejo airbrush flow improver and a couple drops of Mission Models thinner. It levels very well sprayed on thick, but it is just perfect if you thin it a little bit. So after a nice smooth coat of black primer, on with the medium sea grey marble coat. Applied with my new toy! Love the H&S, and love the Grex MAC valve. It's really nice not having to get under the table and mess with the pressure at the compressor. Also really nice is that you can vary the pressure at the trigger with the H&S. I would not say I can do it in any sort of reproducible way, and the MAC valve is still my primary way of adjusting air pressure, but you can get some variation. I think I ended up over blending. I applied my first blend coat, then did some post-shading, then another blend coat. Since MRP goes on so thin anyway, I didn't thin it, and it washed out all my detail. It looks better than the picture shows, which I tried to capture with the second photo, but still not exactly how I would have wanted it. For the camo, I'm going to thin my blend coats and see how that goes.
  14. Finally made some further progress. Two points for future modellers of this kit: 1) if you are adding sparkplug wires, be very careful How far out they stick common because they will interfere with Cowling frame and exhaust brackets, which go on last. These parts not fitting well will prevent the cowlings from going on well. 2) Edward pe Anti friction strips on the cowling frames add enough to the thickness to complicate to fit. This combined with one above to cause problems for me how much is shown below. Since I am planning to model this with the cowlings off permanently and the cowling set to the side and a maintenance display, I believe I can get away with painting them separately and will probably do this instead of futzing with it any longer. Next from here is masking the canopy and applying it. Then a coat of primer over everything and fixing surface imperfections and seam lines once again before we get the final primer coat and get into the painting!
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