red Dog

I can help with the A-7E part of the CVW-8 Microscale Not sure I can find all the smalle stencils, modex and NAvy markings for the corsair, but at least I have the big red parts and the snake

When I researched the same question when doing this one i found out that it was indeed possible, but both small doors at mid section should be up, not only the one with the raised wing. Like in this picture, clearly seen on the starboard wing in red

nevermind

You mean, you did THIS in 6 days? That's insane Nice colours, typically what I would use as well rather than the dull 3 grey tone on the instructions, much more colourful. I like it

Same

never had a problem with mine

She's incredible. Great work !! what catched my eye was the shoe marks around the cockpit, i tried to make them but never was satisfied with my result. I'd be satisfied if i could have done half the quality of yours !!

No need to wait for tonight, i even have it on this computer: dunno who created it but i know i found it from Monster kit retailler in France, so all credits to them. I hope it's okay to post it.If not, feel free to remove it http://www.ravico.com/ST/models/MRPAINT-ColorChart.pdf It stops at MRP-295 so it's outdated but quite useful anyway

I have it home. I saved it the minute i saw it. I'll scan it and upload it tonight, unless someone is quicker than me

Poor in quantity but certainly not in quality. that L-39 looks gorgeous

I made a side by side comparison a few years ago and maybe you can get a few information about the revell single seater in there: https://reddogsmodels.wordpress.com/2012/06/18/132-ef-2000-revelltrumpeter-comparison-side-by-side-report/ Out of memory, the APU was really bad. The intake are a mess but you know that already. For the rest It build like a eurofighter and you can turn it into a nice model: Here is the conclusion I came up with at the time: To compare both I scored some items, the low scores of the revell column may provide more information about where I felt the Revell kit came short Hope that helps - it's pretty personnal and in no way am I a eurofighter expert.

Hello gents, The 2017 monster project is going out the planning phase and about to be started. The idea is to reproduce something like that: Trumpeter A-6A converted to KA-6D refuelling a trumpeter A-7E during Desert storm I love the idea of matching up an early USNavy paint scheme of the KA-6D and the older TPS of the corsair in the same model. The obvious downside will the the size of the display in 1/32. The Trumpeter A-7E: - A-7E trumpeter - Zactoman canopy and nose correction - I don't have the full intake trunk - Eduard exterior PE - Black Box A-7E cockpit - I'll need a pilot, it will be either PJ or Master's haven't decided yet - The decals will be either VA-46 clansmen or VA-72 from the Victory production sheet - It will also be the first time I'll try the Mr paint acrylics rather than my beloved Gunze The A-6A - A-6A trumpeter - KA-6D conversion from Steelbeach - Seamless Intakes from Rhino models - AOA stencils decals - SAC buddy refuelling pod - 2 pilots, either PJ or Master's I'll still need to sort a few issues with the A-6 such as the cockpit and more especially the seats. IW asn't able to find which seats are in the KA-6D. So i held off buying anything for the pit yet. Decals will also be an issue as KA-6D decals aren't easy to find for that period. Basically i have two choices, the one from the picture above (VA-75) for which there is no decals available and therefore will imply custom decal artwork or the Va-35 black panther. Decals don't exist for the hi vis refueller, but I could use the AOA decals and convert them with rather ease... But anyway, I'll start with the A-7 so I have plenty of time to decide which way to go with the KA-6D It's going to be a slow build so bear with me and don't hesitate to post comments, i'll probably have many questions as I progress On the way to some fun modelling...

Yep, this I knew. I wondered how the pilot would see the amber ones though as you can't from dead astern. But them being cleared to contact, it doesn't matter Mine will be green, just need to figure out a bright enough paint.

Thank you Timmy that's quite valuable information and knowing that i can see the purpose of these marks no contact and 5 marks visible, the first out of the reel Contact and obviously the closer to the reel is just visible inside one mark every 10 feet seems spot on, so i need to have 4 marks visibles on my setup, the fifth being Inside the reel

YEp, nt a chance i'll miss the day and I can't wait to see your Viking !! I have a small detail bothering me. I know the KA-6D reel hose is about 50 feet in length and the drogue is about 26 inches. it seems there are kind of distance markers on the hose. visible as yellowed white on the picture below. Would any one know how they are spaced? My best guess is every 10 feet but i have seen some other pictures suggesting otherwise?

It was tedious but it's done, picture as soon as i have a minute home while i still have natural lights the basket challenge was nothing compared to chosing the colour of the wood base. I have no freaking idea

you sure will, i'm sure it will stand proudly next to your viking

Well beside trying out new technique, the idea to use this one was mostly decided by looking at pictures of real weathered intruder the initial idea came from studying the white nose on that picture. You clearly see that the nose is painted white then a layer of dust changed the colour to smoked white, then some areas where cleaned up randomly according to maintenance or even repainted during corrosion control The tail in the picture above was used as model for my weathering. you clearly see that the dirty area have been cleaned in a non uniform way (by hand or airflow) and leave hard edges most of the time Another example oin the tail about corrosion control where a dirty area has been repainted, mostly in the jointure of panels (i.e along panel lines for us) to be able to do that with base colour, then you obviously need to alter the base colour on your model first. Same here on the nose and the fuselage side, although the fuselage weathering could have been done without the scratching effect the Hairspray technique (made easier with the mig products - at least to me) is the perfect candidate to simulate the crew cleaning local parts of the airplane while maintaining the bird. I's not Something i can do with the finest airbrush needle i own (.15) it also perfectly simulates the mark crew boots would leave in the intake or close to the walkways. If you do that with airbrush only, it's too cloudy. the so called Hairspray technique provide much harder edges and smaller marks like very fine line. Beside, this technique is pretty safe to use because: 1. you remove paint rather than adding paint, so ultimately if you remove too much you end up as if you didn't change anything 2. by varying coats between enamels and acrylics your previous work is very safe 3. if overdone, you can tame it down with a mist of base colour. 4. it is safe to use on decals (considered you applied a good varnish coat obviously) there are some "issues" with this technique : 1. the longer you wait to remove your paint, the harder it is to remove 2. if you wait not long enough you remove it completely and directly (you lose your time) 3. the smoke paint that you use may look very subtle when initially airbrushed but will gain in contrast as your scratch it Basically, it was the best technique to try according to the results to achieve but above all, i need the training for that:

Last run before the finish line The top surfaces were not as weathered as the under fuselage white and getting some grey paint for corrosion control on the top fuselage was way too subtle to my liking, so I needed some more smoke paint. Out came again the scratching effect and the tamiya smoke colour, but not before a safeguard alclad gloss coat The tamiya smoke was scratched with the old brush or various sponges to vary the effects. it's very visible on the picture , more sublte on the model (due to contrast at post production) Then the base grey was applied again as corrosion control The inner intakes were weathered by the same technique, and I destroyed the homemade decal red corner doing so ! And the fuselage behing the cockpit as well, albeit with more corrosion control subtle touch ups All 4 wing bags are attached and the heavy D-704 as well. That extra weight really doesn't help the supporting pole. The model ended up very heavy Final shot for today is the canopy. It's always a great achievment when the masking tape are removed from the canopy and you discover the crew inside. It's one of these special moment, usually marking the end of the project ... But before calling it done, I have to do some engineering on the stand for the 2 models - and get my distances right And of course scratching that drogue ...

I thought you can't fire the gun with WoW Wow Master arm (Safe or Sim) Gun loaded in maintenance safety pin Gun is on the second trigger detend ... Geez That's a lot of things that went bad,

I was there Saturday and brought back some shiny tools I never saw before Reviewed on my blog

unless you produce it …. but start with the prowler - and let me be your first customer ...

Yep, we're getting there That thing isd massive !! takes all my bench space

Thank you guys, much appreciated. Excellent advice Ziggy. I overlooked that obvious bit - it's now corrected thanks to you. Many thanks I spent the whole weekend working towards the goal of closing the canopy So first thing was finishing painting the pilots in their desert storm suits and mating them to the seats Looks like VA-35 pilots had these chocolate chips flight suits Worked a bit more on their office, And step them inside: Then tidying up some wires, gluing Hud glass, handles, mirrors and correcting a few touch of paint here and there and I'll be ready to close 524 up

Flabbergasting. i'm still gathering bits of my jaws on the floor I'm Always in awe and to be honest jaleous for such fully scratchbuild projects. Can't wait to see it in the flesh soon