red Dog

I did to complement DN camo mask sheet That said, it's combo mask/decals and by far the most challenging custom decal I ever did. But these were used on a few models already although they are demanding more work than regular commercial decals

The end is near and I can't wait to get back to something flying I recently had confirmation that the way the shell were passed from inside the boat to the deck through the conning tower side hatches and not the big hole in the front. So I opened the port hatch and scratched the door internal with the step retaining the shell before the deck crew can take them. Luckily the hatches are supplied in the RCSubs PE fret, all it takes is to detail the inner side with leftover PE bits The shell comes from a Tamiya 1/48 kit back as if nothing happened Glad to have identified this just in time. Some other details: The capstan (normally it retracts under the deck One of the two spent casing on the deck (artistic licence as I wasn't able to confirm that one) It adds nice deck details anyway Stay tuned for the final lap

Well, it's not meant to be built gear up for sure But if you build it gear down, the issues are quite less problematic and IMHO the plastic gears should be IMHO much stronger than 3D printed ones if you ask me. Anyway, the problem when you built it gear up is that all the main gear doors are too large for their openings. All they need is a bit of careful trimming. In my humble opinion, you shouldn't be distracted by this issue from an otherwise great kit Here's my build log and it's also available somewhere on this very forum: https://reddogsmodels.wordpress.com/2018/10/29/ka-6d-va-35-1-32-ready-to-give-fuel-part-1-assembly/ The big engine door is about 1mm too long and if you build it gear up, you have to place the main gear doors first as the engine doors rest on them. If you do the opposite you won't be able to squeeze the long main gear door in position That multiple angle gear door is the hardest issue to fix as it doesn't follow any fuselage curve. It has to be shorthened, opened wider and sanded intensively to give a great result. But again, gear down and you don't need to modify as you hardly see the issue with the door hanging. In the end, with a bit of work, all is well

Thanks Gents, I appreciate the comments

Crappy picture but slowly getting there ....

Weathering of the hull is finished and it was a great and fun trip: Tamiya and MRP Smoke and a very highly diluted mix of tamiya Buff (XF-57) were mostly used in cojunction with a lot of oil paint here and there. There is normally a cover on both exhausts but it was not always installed. I decided to leave them out, liking the diesel fumes effects on both sides of the hull The hull weathering shines on the closed hull but is also partially noticeable on the open side. That way, each side is attractive with different features the rudders still need to be attached and the prop still need some weathering I also kind of tried to replicate the sub resting on the ocean floor for long period of time by weathering the keel with residues of muds. At least it presents the advantage to highlight a bit the bottom area of the boat even if I soubt this would be highly noticeable on real boats. Next stop matt coat paintshop and i'll start working on deck details and rigging Thanks for looking

Thanks guys You put me on a good lead to source a suitable one, so thanks

Not really rigging in the biplane sense but I am looking for cable approx 0.3 - 0.5 mm I would like to see the cable structure so I'm not after slick wire (which I have) but rather a real cable structure approx 0.4mm That's for rigging the cables on a submarine, the smaller with structure I found was 1mm which is a bit too thick Any recommendation where to get that? Many thanks

I am speechless !

Awesome viggen again Jan

my curve for a SLA printer was 0. watch a lot of tutorial 1. select a good printer (i chose the elegoo saturn3 but any will do) mind the max printing area if you plan to do large pieces 2. select a good resin and stick to it as long as you're a newbee (i chose elegoo fast resin but flavours may vary) 3. level your printer 4. spend a lot of time calibrating for that specific resin until you grasp perfectly the concept exposure time, lift speed and lift distance - change the resin, redo the calibration process 5. learn a 3D software ( I use the hobby free version of Fusion 360) 6. learn a slicer software (I'm still on chitubox free version) 7. scratch your head on each project about these supports finding the best possible way to support your piece 8. marvel at the magic of it everytime you print one of your creations 9. eventually get a cleaning/curing machine 10. should be higher in the list but protect your hands and your respiratory system - in a specific room if you have that luxury - work in a well ventilated area wearing a good mask and nitril gloves...at all times That curve is very steep (i'm still climbing) and requires a lot of time, discipline (especially on the mask and glove thing) but it's also very satisfying and very constructive for nowadays a very reasonnable budget

Weathering the hull is uncharted territory My guidelines are: - I know I don't want to see much rust stains below the flotation line, which differs from the colour demarcation line - I need to find a way to discolour the hull under the flotation line. the flotation line weathering is remarkable - I would like to add a little bit of barnacles but really minimum. - I have seen different weathering on WWII pictures. Some boats are pristine, some are heavily weathered. I want to depict mine quite weathered but not like she stayed in a drydock for years. Here are some examples illustrating the above: Here's one pretty beat up above the floatation line, proving you can go overboard if you wish Discoloration of the hull below the floatation line is obvious in this dry dock picture, not an easy effect to achieve Discoloration also happens on the dark grey/blue above the floatation line as seen above This one is probably not representative because it's been out of the water for very long, but I found the moss interesting illustrating the barnacles effect I would be tempted to achieve (bit less though) I'll use only a few products for weathering the hull: Both the naval wash and steaking effect which is brown rather than grey will be used randomly together alongside the hull. Once a bit dry, it will be rubbed with a sponge for effect Salt streaks will be next. pulled vertically but more patchwork under the flotation line. These will probably disappear with further treatment, so basically just a first encounter with this product (which can be replaced with any paint well thinned or even oil paint; It's just more convenient I confess. The area just under the ballast gets a heavy grimeline which is then blended out The difference between weathered and unweathered is quite visible. I'm not too much concerned at this time because I knwo more treatment will be added later on and i'll correct what I don't like doing while testing new grounds. The model is huge but it's easy to work section by section Rust streaks are added above the flotation line with the oil brusher which is again just quite convenient. I also like to use any default in my work to simulate damage on the model. So here the plastic was scratched and I used that just like if the real boat was scratched at that same place. rather than fixing the damage it's a good way to have simulated damage random. The ongoing process rest streaks on the bow, rust paint is applied in dots, left to dry and then blended downwards with a thin bruxh controlled with more or less thinner happy with the result under the floatation line so far Next: discoloration under the floatation line and I have been thinking about how to do that for the whole week Thanks for following

As I said on the other side, this F-16 is gorgeous. Very dynamic, attractive and very well done Congrats Steve

lol Sorry about that Niels This is a behemoth to display, glad I saved you the trouble

Thank you gents I worked on the PE deck next. The PE parts are a blessing compared to the original plastic parts. there are a lot of small parts to glue in place and Submarine decks are a mix of metal plates and wood. The wood part is coated with a anti-slip grey paint but this wears out fast enough leaving a lot of liberty about how you want to paint the deck. I decided to have a little bit of contrast but not too much and paint the metal plates with XF-24 and the wood parts with XF-64 mixed with XF-24 as base colours. This was then toned up or down depending on crew passage. Further weathering will hopefully tone down the contrast but I still want to have something more attractive than an all grey deck The stern plate is all metal (not yet glued) - weathered with a dark wash and details lightened drybrushed with light oil paint Another plate not yet glued, the subtle variation of base paint are more visible The plate in front of the conning tower is where most of the action will happen with the deck gun. I tried to find as much information as possible about deck gun operations but I still have some questions unanswered. I know where the rounds are stored and I know the path they have to follow to reach the gun. I learned that there is a small waterproof storage area just under the deck and close to the gun so that they can immediately start firing and not wait for the crew chain to bring the first rounds to the deck. But I am not 100% sure where that compartment is. Probably under that round hatch. I also read that they bring the expended shell casings back with them. Apparently they didn't throw them overboard. Leaving the deck uncluttered with spent cases makes sense but I wonder why they loaded the casings back (recycling ). I don't know either where they are stored. So I created two compartments under specific deck plates for both features above and although that may not be historically accurate It will at least give some dynamics to the deck with two plates open which can serve either purpose. I'll probably fill the most rear compartment with shell casings on the principles that they don't want casings littered around the gun for crew safety but they need a spot to throw them out of the way The unglued bow plate with the same treatment as the stern deck plate Thanks for following along

I can do that for you. It's seems quite easy enough for me TBH, when I saw you were starting the WIP, I thought about offering to design it in 1/32 as I'll need this as well for a distant project. And I already have all dimensions of that thing The real question is How fast do you need it?

Finally a huge milestone in this venture: the hulls are finally closed This is by far the most challenging part of this build: getting the hull parts to assemble all together and seal all the internal compartments. Of course adding so many things inside didn't help and created a few issues on their own. I barely glued the compartment inside. I just secured the aft torpedo room once it was sitting perfectly in place. Then I secured the front torpedo room as well and all the other compartments went in with a very tight fit and didn't require any glue. The last one to be inserted was very tight and once in place wouldn't come out anymore. The starboard hull half fit well and I could wipe the sweat off my forehead Due to the nav light wires coming from the tower, the main aft deck and tower cannot be separated anymore but are not yet glued. It does not help managing that huge model - it's twice as long as my modeling bench! I will work on the rest of the PE deck parts and will soon secure them all in place. The wires are not yet connected to the PCB which is partly inserted into its casing but all lights were checked before closing the hull. From here, It should be a walk in the park until I get to the finishing line.

Awesome jeep. Always had a soft spot for the LRDG

That was quite a journey Mal, thanks for sharing it with us. That stand screams : I can't get enough it's super great

Great way to save shelf space Reminds me the same thing I did with an old 1/32 Tamiya tomcat

Merci Norbert. I'll have a look as well. Expect my order very soon Olivier

Many thanks Pete. that clears it

they are in the picture above not post processed yet though

Thanks Madelf for your input. I figured it out. I was under the impression (I might be wrong) that you had some troubles at the later stage of designing this so I was wondering if you overcame these issues and if the part was good to be ordered?

I'm about to order a 1/18 pilot for my 1/18 Harrier from reedoak but I see there are different pilots now. The one in the shapeway link above is "sitting 3". but can't be seen since the shapeways changes. On reedoak store, there's is no "sitting 3". We got sitting 2, 4, 5, 6, 7 & 8 @Pete Fleischmann can you remember which pose it was and if it is available from Reedoak website or is this a one shot special pose? I was going to order the sitting 2 but figured I'd ask first. Worst case scenario I'll order in the blind and adapt the pose Many thanks