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dodgem37

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Everything posted by dodgem37

  1. You got the POWER! The orange lines have texturing on them. Did you apply the texturing or did they come in the kit that way? If you applied the texturing, what did you use? Also, where did you find your NoviArt3D stand? Thank you. Sincerely, Mark
  2. Nicely done. Sincerely, Mark
  3. Mistakes or no, great work. Sincerely, Mark
  4. Great work, Tom. Educational as always. Thank you. Sincerely, Mark
  5. Thank you, Mike. Thank you, Alain. Steve, I found one also. Until you said something I was planning to scratch it. Found it here: https://www.eduard.com/Eduard/Plastic-kits/Other/Aircraft/1-32/Bf-109E-Bomb-set-1-32.html from here: https://www.google.com/search?q=1%2F32+Bf-109E+Bomb+Set+For+the+Eduard+Kit+Stock+Number%3A+3005&sxsrf=AOaemvJDWXFWiJ5SR618nzsIn0iMkSsWTQ%3A1631914655543&source=hp&ei=nwpFYbGgHvuj5NoPw42t8Ac&iflsig=ALs-wAMAAAAAYUUYr69w21ACuXXhCeIYrd2xhc2Xjgaq&oq=1%2F32+Bf-109E+Bomb+Set+For+the+Eduard+Kit+Stock+Number%3A+3005&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EANQkgxYkgxg7hZoAHAAeACAAaABiAGgAZIBAzAuMZgBAKABAqABAQ&sclient=gws-wiz&ved=0ahUKEwjx6-Dq-4bzAhX7EVkFHcNGC34Q4dUDCAo&uact=5 Thank you. Sincerely, Mark
  6. Share, share, that's what's fair. Anytime. Glad to help. Sincerely, Mark
  7. Specs call for RLM 24. Eventually, due to raw material shortages and different manufacturers, in different regions, like Germany and Czechoslovakia, and because the allies were bombing the brains out of the Germans, ingredients weren’t available in the proportions and quantities required to make the same color as earlier in the war. Sincerely, Mark
  8. You’re the bomb! Sincerely, Mark
  9. 'Impressive work as always, Mark! I removed the duplicate post for you.' Thank you, Kevin. On both accounts. Thank you, Ace. Sincerely, Mark
  10. Hmm. Don't know what that double is about. Anyway, onward thru the fog. Cut down and blanked off the MK 108 cannon housing and made a handle and knob. I didn't bother with the shady side detail as I figured it wouldn't be seen. Chiseled off the seat belts. Not so perfect. Oh well. Rudder cable and electrical line cut-out toward bottom. Sanded down the rudder pedals, cleaned the heel as best I could. I suppose I can go over that are with liquid cement to smooth things out. Tape straps. The pedals have .010 x .040 returns glued to the back, with the extension folded forward. Anyone who has tried to fold thin styrene will know that the styrene has memory and tends to return and not stay at a 90degree angle. If you put a spot of CA on the inside of the return you can get the styrene to stay at 90degrees. The CA will harden and allow the piece to keep the angle. Rudder pedal cable, Left side: old electrical box chiseled off and new electrical box located to accommodate right side oxygen regulator panel. Right side new configuration for I know not what. Right side panel. A lot of chiseling done, here. 2 new fuel lines to the left. Next, a cover, below that a handle. Needed to chisel off the oxygen gauges from behind the panel. Didn't do such a good job and had to scrounge oxygen gauges from the spare parts box. Also chiseled off some oxygen tubing and stuff from behind the panel. Chiseled off the lower left diagonal rib from the circuit breaker. I see there is more work to do. Built the flare cartridge base. Made the oxygen on/off handle with tubing. A lot of fiddling to get everything to fit. The flare cartridge box as you will note when comparing its' location to the reference drawing is elsewhere. I couldn't manage to fit it as per the photo. Knob on vent door, and enhanced vent door triangular guides. Other side. The outside wheel should be smaller. I failed miserably in my attempt so went with the kit wheel. Albion Allow tubing to the left of the wheels for the chain, which is twisted wire. At the top, canopy release and canopy emergency release are G-10 details as the canopy is an Erla. To the right, the wiring and cover are enhancement of what was chiseled off from the kit. Balls on throttle and emergency canopy release I think is Purigen, a salt water tank filter media. Still have the bucket seat and Instrument Panel to do. Thank you for looking in. Sincerely, Mark
  11. Scanned a few reference photos. Fair use. Avia Cockpit: G Cockpit: Gotta go to work. Will post what I've done when I get back. Thank you for looking in. Sincerely, Mark
  12. You have a nice-looking machine there, Eric. Good show. Sincerely, Mark
  13. Happy Birthday, Brother Bear! Sincerely, Mark
  14. Thank you, my Brother. Sincerely, Mark
  15. This is the Squadron canopy. Found on page 3 below. If you look closely you will be able to see the exterior frame is below the canopy return, allowing one to locate the tube frame in position. Page 10. This is the problem with trying to inner frame the Hasegawa canopy. The forward top aspect of the exterior frame is the same depth as the plastic, so an interior frame falls below the exterior frame. Sincerely, Mark
  16. According to 'German Artillery of World War Two', by Ian V. Hogg, the Basic Body colours of projectiles was as follows: High Explosive, anti-concrete, smoke, chemical, or hollow-charge shells: olive green, olive drab or field grey. armour piercing shot or shell: black high explosive shell for 3.7 cm anti-tank: silver grey propaganda shell: white and red anti-aircraft high explosive shell: yellow anti-aircraft incendiary shrapnel shell: red and blue star shell: pale green With regard to the yellow green just below the fuze this can be explained thus. A variety of markings were stencilled over the basic body colour, serving to give complete identification of the shell's history, contents and mode of operation. The shell can be divided into six marking zones: 1. Immediately below the fuze. 2. On the ogive or head. 3. On the parallel part of the body 4. Immediately above the driving band(s). 5. Immediately below the driving band(s). 6. On the base. Zone 1 contained the fuzing factory's location, monogram and date. Zone 2 carried the code of the explosive filling and the weight marking, Zone 3 carried information about the shell's action, together with the date and place of filling (if it was a smoke shell). Zone 4 contained information on the date and place of filling with explosive and details relating to the design and construction of the driving band. Zone 5 usually gave the calibre, if this was mentioned at all. Zone 6 usually carried a brief summary of the more important details marked on the side-generally listing such details as the driving band, the filling, the fuze, and the weight. In this case the 2 cm band which should be yellow would carry the following: Mark + indicating that the shell was for use only with time and percussion fuzes. https://www.feldgrau.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1730 http://ww2data.blogspot.com/2017/04/german-projectiles-introduction-and.html HTH. Sincerely, Mark
  17. 'Tamiya owes a P 51B . . .' BtP, Before the Pandemic, Zoukei-Mura said they were coming out with a 1/32 P-51B. Sincerely, Mark
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