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About Bob MDC

  • Birthday 08/04/1950

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    Lincolnshire Coast

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  1. REALLY https://www.themodellingnews.com/2022/08/border-models-new-apocalypse-tank-where.html#more
  2. This is the stuff I use https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-and-body-repair/primer/halfords-primer-grey-500ml-473116.html UK had another brand Hycote which was very good but the one by Halfords works better for me. Bob
  3. No airbrush, all my priming is by rattle can, normally grey auto primer then Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 any colour. I've found no real difference in using a can over airbrush, when I was the UK importer for Mr Hobby I had a couple of interesting conversations with some of the technical guys one was very pro rattle can as the GSI Creos heads were very good and as the pigment in the primers were different to paint this could cause wear on the airbrush. So as the day job was a few masters coming through in various states I normally finish all my masters for casting in the combo with lots of happy customers. I find my drying cabinet is the ace for me giving a hard surface to work on if needed. Bob
  4. There are some super thin epoxies at super high prices plus normally only sold in 2kgs kit with low shelf life. I also use acetone as pure as you can get to aviod the moisture problem Have you thought about Thread Lok not used it for a while but that is thin. Bob
  5. My go to primer for most resin and other stuff (3D material) is a quick waft of a car body primer then Mr Primer Surfacer 1500 while the first coat is still damp then cure them off. Luckily I have drying cabinet normally about 40 oC and then cure for several hours, I find the curing is the most important part of priming as we are using this method for treating masters of all types of materials before casting. Bob
  6. No problem in getting it done now https://zealotminiatures.com/3d-scan/ it's all down to cost and size (part and platten) and final detail, if you drop Eddie at Zealot a mail with sizes of masters for scanning then if you want prints they can do it too https://zealotminiatures.com/commercial-prototypes/ MDC and Zealot have been working together on 3D and other stuff for well over 10 years now, I have a couple of our 1/48 stuff being boosted to 1/32 so very happy with the quality. Bob
  7. Mr 500 rattle can was my go to as a base primer for mr 1200, but since surface primer 1500 I use car body primer. My golden rule in all priming is give plenty time to dry I'm lucky enough to have a drying cabinet which all my primed parts are cured in just a few degrees over room temp not to fierce. Mr S 500 still on sale https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/100ml-mr-surfacer-500-mr-hobby-b-506-p16790/ Bob
  8. Front Gunner Flight Engineer Bomb Aimer Front Gunner Again Pilot
  9. Sorry about that got bogged down in a couple of other projects will try to get some pics shortly
  10. Large box arrived today via Albion Alloys and Scale Model Shop all canopies double wrapped !! and in good order. Its big "bloody big" and was looking forward to a good inspection over the weekend BUT a couple of jobs came in after being fairly quite "bloody typical" Scale Model shop had a batch of about 20 arrived Wednesday only one left Bob
  11. I have been working with 3D prints for over 12 years now and had to "refine" all sorts, from very delicate to bloody rough. The most important part is not to lose detail. My standard method. Ensure the part is clean and dry and properly cured, a spray of car body primer then before it dries a coat of Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 both from a spray cans allow the primers to fully harden then finish I tend to use a large glass fibre brush https://www.shestotrade.com/Modelcraft-Glass-Fibre-Brush-7mm- then Scotbright pads https://www.cromwell.co.uk/search?query=3m+scotch+brite+hand+pads Shop arround for these as you can get some good deals, my normal pick is green (course), red (medium) and fine (grey) but all shapes and sizes can be found. Always check your detail as it can be easy to over sand when you are happy with the surface a light spray with Mr FS 1500 to ensure an even surface finish. The glass fibre pens are great, they can take cement finger prints from plastic and restore old 3D prints( a customer re-released an old item but found the print had a coating of "mould" but a brush over then a coat of Mr SF solved the problem) Hope that helps Bob
  12. https://www.shesto.co.uk/na-3110 This is the other tool I use not the 3" one with soft fibres this is about 6" and is great to fettle out the heavy marks before spraying. Plus it is incredible for removing "glue finger prints " from plastic. Bob
  13. Hi Kev, My prefered method for 3D prints is after a good clean and dry, then spray with car type grey primer (I use Halfords in the UK) then before it drys spray over with Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 gray then give it about 24hours in a warmish place that gives it a good coating to work on. After I'm happy with the part a final seal of Mr F Surf 1500. We've been using that combo for years and both sprays directly from a rattle can. Bob
  14. I can't remember where I saw it but a memo from the Admiralty (in the early days RNAS)berating officers using dead sheep to check the loading on the gun turret mounted catapults. "use ratings they are cheaper and easier to replace" Bob
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