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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/31/2022 in all areas

  1. Couldn't resist as I was tidying up my work area, before the in-laws arrive this week. Taped the pods and gear on to take a quick look. Obviously getting waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay ahead of myself, but good for motivation! Sat down tonight to make a punch list of things to knock out prior to masking and painting. Slow and steady wins the race in this case, and we've come so far, no sense in rushing things. -Peter
    14 points
  2. Well my A.D.D. has gotten the best of me again, this is my new challenge, I actually started one of these about 15 years ago, unfortunately I trashed it never thinking that these models would become very expensive !!! I actually had 2 Blue Box P-51s the one I trashed and the other went to a kids toy donation... at least it went to a good cause(hope the kid was able to cash in on it..) I was able to find the model on ebay out of the box at a decent price(just shy of $200 US with shipping) the good thing it is a second generation model which has both seperate flaps and ailerons and no riveting on the suraces except for the ailerons and flaps(it won,t matter, metal is going over them). The wing is a little shallow in the cord, the span seems to be good the fuselage outline it very close to being correct(good enough for me). I started with taking the model apart which wasn't too bad, the spinner/prop assembly was a bit of a challenge... After cutting off the kit's dorsal spine down to the horizontal panel line below the canopy on the model and removed the vertical stab's fillet as well. I made up a pattern for the "B" spine, it runs from the front of the horizontal stab's fillet to the rear canopy frame, I would have made it longer with the canopy section, but I don't have a vacuum forming machine that's large enough. I made the spine in one piece so that it would be strong and not worry about gluing it together down the center -line. I put in the fuselage formers and "A" frame for the pilot,s seat behind the cockpit, I still have to make the fuel tank and install it before I glue the spine onto the fuselage. I am going to cover the model with aluminum, I have been wanting to do this process for quite sometime, thanks to Peter AKA "AIRSCALE" I'm taking the plunge, Peter's builds have been soo inspiring , and his articles have cleared up alot of proceedures for this application.. THANK YOU PETER !!! I wanted to start messing around with the aluminum to make sure that I could even pull it off.. The spacing of the rivets was the big worry to me, I decided to make a "ruler" for lack of better terms out .010 clear evergreen sheet styrene, I cut a strip about 6 inches long, I scribed a parallel to the edge of the strip with is the scale offset distance of the rivets from the edge of a panel, I layed out rivet centers along the length of this line, I then used a pointed scriber to center punch each rivet center I then drilled .021" diameter holes at each center. The reason I made the "ruler" clear was so that I can lay it over the surfaces and see everything below, i.e. drawing, aluminum panels, existing rivet rows, I swiped some sand paper over it just so I won't lose it on the work bench.. . I spent a couple hours yesterday trying out panel making, much to my suprise it actually went pretty quickly for never having tried this method before, I was able to make up 4 panels that all butt up to one another, for the panels with curved edges I used Peter's method of putting masking tape down onto the model's detail(wing fillet) and using a sharp pencil marked the line onto the tape along with straight lines of the panel, lifted the tape off(gently don't stretch it) the apply to a piece of aluminum and score it with a knife, the aluminum I am using is "Shim Stock" which is hardened the same as the litho plate that Peter uses is, when it is scoered with a knife you just have to bend it on the line a few times and it breaks right off. This aluminum is just for the panels with no compound curves, the compound stuff needs to be done with "annealed" material that can be worked and stretched.. The panels that I made are not glued down, so the gaps you see in the photos are not bad panels they just not down tight to the surface, they actually butt-up perfectly to each another, I was quite surprised how well ??? Thank You AIRSCALE !!! Pat
    12 points
  3. Hello Finished this one a while ago but was too lazy to snap a few pictures This is Revel Hasegawa Bf 109K-4 from 9./JG4. It was flown by Fw Hans Braun from Juterborg-Damm in March 1945. Paints as always are from Model Master Authentic range with Valleyo varnishes and wash done by oils. Decals are from excellent Aims sheet Late war 109s Vol.2 . So... now back to Erla G-10 from KG(J)6 !!! Hope u like the model...
    11 points
  4. LSP_Kevin

    No New Updates

    Yes, Brian is correct - and I probably should have made a public announcement about it here to allay any fears or worry. I've spent the last month preparing for and executing a major house move - our first in 20 years. The move is technically complete now, but there remains a lot to do at the old place before we hand the keys over at the end of this week, and the new place is in complete disarray - though getting better slowly. It will be quite some time before I have a usable workbench again, however! A new update will be coming, but I can't promise when. Kev
    11 points
  5. I assembled the air intakes and glued them to the fuselage. Inside I made an imitation of cloth plugs. Wings. Stabilizers. Central pylon. External pylons and Mavericks. Sidewinders (ResKit)
    9 points
  6. Quick update as I’m deep in the midst of scribing all the stuff around the nose. Here’s how I scribe the one off shapes like the hand hold doors and various handles. Simply cut a piece of styrene and carve out the appropriate shape. Super easy and allows you to keep things symmetrical etc. you can see how I’d already done the boarding platform and the panels on the cheek. Here you can see the end result. Took all of about 2 minutes to make one handhold… you can also see where I’ve drawn out locations for the others. Also used Chuck’s trick of putting a wash in place to see how everything looks. Tough to see with the approximate 49.67 shades of gray on the nose. off to work on the hinges for the canopy, and all the panel lines on the turtle back (plus all those dzus fasteners). -Peter
    7 points
  7. AIMS JG 54 Vol.1 decals just a reminder! Please email me at aimsmodels1@gmail.com to order, thanks 1/32 - £12.00 + shipping
    6 points
  8. shark64

    ADRIATIC MODELS

    This is so unbelievably amazing to have all this products available for the Wessex or the H.34. I am using the Side fuel tank for my build and I recommend it. here’s the fuel tank on mine. i added the connections and support brackets to the helo. I recommend drilling into the tank to add a brass rod for support since the tank has some weight to it.
    6 points
  9. denders

    Trumpeter F-105G (Done)

    Well, the three colors are on it. Now for touch ups and other miscellaneous colors, like black.
    6 points
  10. I was judging our local Chattanooga IPMS chapter contest on Fri/Sat and ran across this Ju EF 126/127. Wow. what a good looking model.
    6 points
  11. Out2gtcha

    Tamiya New Item(s)

    If I had to go with the odds, honestly Id go with some sort of R/C car.
    5 points
  12. I have started the conversion of the N1K2 cockpit. Fits very well with some differences to address. More later. Thanks for looking.
    5 points
  13. Today I made some progress - I decided to put the chassis before weathering
    5 points
  14. Sunday updatey timey Decals?! Who'd have thought? How incredible it yet seems it is time to start on the decals! It's been a long road to here but now it´s time. First off I had a look at the roundels....I thought they looked a wee bit to bright. So I scrounged up a sheet with Swedish roundels in different scales. Then I compared...hmmmmm Then I compared with another set too......hmmmmm I decided to try on a darker blue roundel to see how it looked....and well It looks good. Unfortunately I noticed that the roundels for the flanks weren't centered So off with the darker blue and on with the Jetmads, really thin and nice decals btw. And the roundels look alright. Next I ruined a decal.....demn Well off with it, I'll have t paint it no biggie, it´s just a black square. It's identity is soon revealed. And there I'll take a break for today and let the decal fluids work their magic. The F4 wing shield looks awesome....a really fragile decal but I´ll seal all my decals before I start weathering. Cheers!
    5 points
  15. npb748r

    Tamiya New Item(s)

    I think there's better odds on it being new double extra extra extra thin cement and a new size tape dispenser than a new 1/32 aircraft unfortunately.
    4 points
  16. Hi All! I bought the missing rail from Zacto-Man, wonderfully made, a bit pricey but worth every cent! Så hittade jag ännu mera skarvar som behövde åtgärdas…. Then I found more seams I had to handle; OK, more Black Primer…. …and the under side painted WEM Russian Underside Blue… More to come soon… Stefan
    4 points
  17. I built this kit a few years ago, the undercarriage is more than capable of supporting the weight of the model if built up correctly. Sadly I had to recycle mine due to the kit having been knocked off the drawers where it was being displayed, several parts of it were damaged beyond repair, including the undercarriage. But had been sat, without any problems for several years using only the kit part
    4 points
  18. LSP_Kevin

    No New Updates

    78 boxes, umpteen trips in the car, still trying to sort it all out. All the furniture came across in a very large truck, but we still left quite a bit behind that we weren't planning to keep (the last of which left the place yesterday). We also had dozens of boxes of books, magazines, CDs, DVDs & Blu-rays, miscellaneous household items, electronics, blah, blah, blah. None of which fitted into the very large truck. But thankfully, the 17 bookshelves we elected to keep did! Kev
    4 points
  19. Thanks guys! Today saw the 1st coat of enamel in play. Looking at this 1st pic, up close, i may have to be a little closer when i spray. Seems just a little grainy, like it’s drying before it hits the surface. Fortunately enamels love wet sanding lol you can’t really see the fade well in these pics. I applied more coats as I went away from the nose. The poster tac is helping keep a straight line from forming. I had tried just loose paper on the wings and i still got a line at the edge of the blue that was pretty sharp. This looks like it’ll work. and here’s her hat to keep the dust out of the enamel for 4hours till it drives to the touch.
    4 points
  20. http://www.nmusafvirtualtour.com/cockpits/WWII_tour/WWII-21.html Navigators Station. World War II Gallery Cockpits http://www.nmusafvirtualtour.com/cockpits/WWII_tour/WWII-20.html Cockpit. use cursor to move around the link.
    4 points
  21. Hi friends. Here's some update with the engine finally in place. In addition to the placement of radiators, fans and fuel tanks finished. A closer image where you can see the butterfly mechanism located in the firewall. As well as the throttle rod actuator. Now some photos of the unfinished ammo racks. And some more details of the finished driver and radio operator positions. That's all for now. Hope you like. All the best.
    4 points
  22. Assembled all the painted parts together. And assembled the fuselage.
    4 points
  23. CraigC

    Ju 88A

    Here is the antagonist to my Hurricane. Certainly a much easier kit to assemble than the PCM. Its ready for primer and painting and the final assembly. I used HGW seatbelts and Master MG15 barrels. It has also been sitting around for a while, I ran out of steam masking the canopy !!
    3 points
  24. This is truly a dream come true. A P3C Orion in the 32 scale. When i read this, there was only one thing i could do and that was order one. I had to have this model. My brother flew as a IFT on this lady, and besides that it remains a very nice plane to see. After my Shinden I started clearing out my desk and start doing some homework to see what I've been up to. I got my hand on a Natops from a very friendly ex P3 pilot. This helped me a lot to get on track. Last week the first box was deliverd by the postman, and if all goes well the second box will arrive next week. I can only say one thing what a insane model this is. A lot needs to be done to make it a Dutch P3C but that's the challange of the hobby. The fuselage on my workbench. This is the largest model i will build so far. The basic cockpit floor and layout. The main instrument panel The big question and answer book. The Dutch P3. This is giong to be the color scheme.
    3 points
  25. I do not like bi-planes! Too many wings, and the rigging is a stuff of nightmares!!! Then along comes ICM's superb Gladiator. I have always had a soft spot for this aeroplane, despite it being a bi-plane. An absolute joy to build with no fit issues at all! Everything went together perfectly. I used some aftermarket seatbelts, and the decals are from AIMS. The chequerboard on the top wing disintegrated when I tried to apply it, so I had to paint it on. For the overall aluminium dope finish I used Tamiya's flat aluminium. The rigging was done with flower arranging wire. It was pulled and stretched taught before being cut to length and superglued into place. Thanks for looking Angelo.
    3 points
  26. Ok, been on the hunt for my new truck, and have found it, hoping to actually secure the payment with the dealer today. With that part of the deal out of the way (sort of) I forced myself to sit back down at the bench, as I dont want to loose any momentum that I have with this build, as the Tigercat seems to do that herself. Well failure is failure, and I'm accustomed to things not working out the 1st round on this build...........or the 2nd............or 3rd..........or even the 4th round occasionally. The gear was going swimmingly, so completely on-brand and on-time, after I assembled the gear with JB Weld, the flat but joint between metal and resin broke with barely a whisper when I tried to remove it. I then just removed the MLG and all the broken parts, that fortunately broke at the glue joints, with the exception of one of the actuator arms where the glue held, and it remained attached to the articulating support, so I removed those two as one unit: You can see above, and here a bit better I have soldered a brass pin on the end of the articulating support that will go through the end of the MLG arm and provide some needed glue adhesion surface area. As you can see above, I had to also remove the brass ends of the actuator arms, and soldered a tiny brass pin on those too, and will then re-glue onto the actuator arms, and install those in a hole in the MLG to give triangulated support to the gear: Ill have to let some of that dry, and still need to drill holes to accept the pins on the actuating arms to get the MLG basics done. I then moved onto unmasking the props and then getting some masking tape markers in place to be able to put the HS and prop pitch text on them: That was as far as I got with those, as the HpH wet transfers, that at this point are about 5 or more years old, came apart in the water with the HS logo remaining on the paper and the clear plastic sheet (that SHOULD have held the decal on with it) came away clean without anything on it. Bummer. Oh well, Ill have to invest in some HS logo decals from somewhere............dont think those should be too hard to find. Next up I thought maybe I could score a win by unmasking the wheels, which I had just gotten done fully painting, but not weathering yet. Well, best not get too hopeful for ANY kind of win then!!! It looks like there is some paint missing on the nose tire as well, but its just the light, and its only one of the mains that had paint peel down to the resin: Son of a........@!#&*!!!! Ok, Im fine, its all fine. DEEEEEEP breaths. Back to work. I took and sanded down that one main and then masked off the MLG rim and set to work with a bit of primer, sand then apply some MRP Tyre black, then some lightening of the tread to match the other one and we have a fix: They will look better once weathered up and some of teh sheen taken off the DSB. I feel even remotest thing going right like this a win at this stage. Sometimes its not that I dont want to finish things up, it just feels like every time I touch something, something else unrelated goes awry. Strange feeling for a model, but at this point Im just pushing blindly through the storm. Cheers.
    3 points
  27. Gary Needham

    Tamiya New Item(s)

    I would be delighted with a 32 scale P-47 but ecstatic with a 1/32 F-86 Sabre ! Gary
    3 points
  28. monthebiff

    Tamiya New Item(s)

    Very likely with a bonus Ltd Edition figure of Micheal Masi. Regards. Andy
    3 points
  29. Finn

    Tamiya New Item(s)

    Keeping it on topic, a 1/32 F-4B Phantom. Jari
    3 points
  30. Oh man, this is gonna be good! So many people with out of the box ideas around here. I feel a bit like Odd Ball from Kelly's Heroes. So many positive vibes... This is gonna be yet another great one to follow. -Peter
    3 points
  31. The N1K2 props look better to me but the spinner looks wrong. I will move along using the N1K1 propellers and spinner. N1K1 kit Spinner N1K2 spinner
    3 points
  32. Using the NiK2 engine. The Revell kit engine (bottom) looks more like the engine from a Kingfisher. N1K2 on Left
    3 points
  33. I discovered that the exhaust configuration and the exhaust pipes are too different to use directly. The N1K2 exhaust configuration has two ventral pipes. So I made the N1K1 pipes work. They need to be made to look more separate. But the size looks good to me. N1K2 exhaust manifold. Revell N1K1 “spaghetti machine” Exhausts need a bit more definition
    3 points
  34. Many times joining a group build while owning a lake house is a curse... Now back at the bench. I decided the cost of RTV, resin and time was more expensive than using a Hasegawa N1K2 as a donor. I bought it as a show for about $35. I have completed scribing the exterior of this old girl. Very hard plastic. I did not sand off all the details yet. I may keep a lot after a strategic smoothing and priming. A few places will need to be repaired. But very good enough for now. I find it interesting that the panel lines and other surface detail match the Maru Mechanic drawings. I enlarged the drawings +- to 1/32 scale of course. I then rubbed the surfaces with artist drawing graphite that I borrowed from my artist wife. Makes all the lines and detail to avoid very visible.
    3 points
  35. here's BTW a great build.... https://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/5591-124-airfix-scale-mosquito-build/
    3 points
  36. Mark, I will make one of the intruder Mossies of the 418 Sqn RCAF... I have the decals of Aviaology, I don't know which one of these...Bannock's Kipp's or Luma's Mk VI.... BTW, I have problems posting pics in LSP, the link for forums (postimage) doesn't work... (but it works by other forums.....)
    3 points
  37. You've got the two radios backwards. The FuG 25 was the onboard IFF system that worked together with a ground based radar, Freya or Würzburg. The ground station sent a signal towards the radar contact and the FuG 25 responded with a pre-programmed code to identify the plane as friendly. It used a stubby antenna on the right lower side of the fuselage in Rumpfteil 3 (compartment 3). The so-called Morane-Mast was used with the FuG 16 ZY for the Y-Verfahren and was part of the range finding equipment. This radio also made use of the DF ring antenna on the fuselage spine. It was then connected to the AFN 2 guage (Anzeigegerät Funknavigation 2) on the right upper side of the instrument panel in the cockpit that showed the pilot the way towards or from a radio beacon. By the way, we seem to share the same obsession All the best Andy
    3 points
  38. MikeMaben

    No New Updates

    I think we can live without updates for awhile. Take your sweet time moving Kevin. It's not the sort of thing one should rush. Most of us know what a nightmarish task it can be.
    3 points
  39. Awesome! Love it . I still need to add the flanges to the oil header and fuel tanks to mine.
    3 points
  40. For what it’s worth, I built this kit not long after it came out. I lose track of time but it must be at least 10-12 years ago that I completed it using the kit gear legs. It’s still standing strong with no signs of problems all this time later. All good. Tom
    3 points
  41. Y'all really liked that last post judging by the comments. Is it transparencies? OK, last post showed newly installed transparencies for a scratch built windshield. Still to go was the exterior framing. But, the exterior framing, at least some of it, is basically installed on top of the fuselage skin. And the existing skin surface needs work. I have decided, rather than putty over panel lines and rescribe, that I am going to skin this beast with aluminum. You saw the mule I purchased to practice on - here is some practice: The Imgur "huge thumbnail" reveals much. The larger painted one was my first try. From it I learned what glue not to use (some Revell Germany contact glue). I also learned that annealed aluminum sheet is a little soft for this application; it's a little lumpy, and the awl-pressed rivet heads deform a bit too much. And importantly I learned that paint doesn't adhere very well to the aluminum panels. That's going to have to be addressed for sure. I am open to suggestions. The large blank panel to the left was an experiment with a different contact cement - better stick, but still a bit lumpy. And the third panel (the smaller one with all the rivet heads) turned out pretty good. Good enough for me to try my luck on the Corsair. Here we go - small panels surrounding the windshield: I am pretty happy with these. Even though they are soft (annealed), they laid down pretty smooth, and the rivet and Dzus patterns are pretty good (required a good bit of burnishing with balsa block, brass roller, and toothpick). I didn't have to worry too much about the boundary between the aluminum and the "glass" - it would be covered by the framing. These panels are the tip of the iceberg. I am now waiting for some heat treated litho plate (in the mail from my BFF Peter Castle, who is helping me with this skinning effort). What a pro - I could not ask for a better instructor. Once obtained, I will be ready to attack the acreage. I am not sure whether or not to wait until the wing center section is joined to the fuselage - must hand-wring over that some. Anyway - I continued on with the rest of the skinning around the windshield: I am pretty certain many of you watching this build are happy that I am doing something with the pock marks and trenches on this toy. In the past I have ignored this stuff, happy enough with a well shaped and realistic modification of a toy. No longer - gonna dive into the world of exterior finishing where I can do something worthy of the rest of the effort. Not my strong suite, so wish me luck. Once I got the rest of the small alum sheet panels glued on, I could do the exterior framing. Here it is: VERY stressful work - must not put a glue smudge on the glass. And I didn't! The effort isn't quite ready for prime time - I have a bit of smoothing to do. Note there is less transparency there - it looks kinda like a Corsair. The customary comparison shot with the old part: Makes me glad I went ahead with the scratch built version. What ugly screw marks! My list of things to do before joining wing to fuselage says it's time for the firewall, by God. So that is what you will see next I think. Stay with me, and keep those suggestions rolling in!
    3 points
  42. airscale

    1/18 Curtiss P40C

    howdy folks Hey Jay - the fuselage frames are PE laminates taken from the Curtiss drawings on aircorps library, with a thin strip of litho on their edge as you can't add a folding edge to a curve... it's all well and good, but it does require the skin to be exactly the same profile as the drawing and mine weren't so they needed reworking. ..now Chuck, I can assure you that quite apart from blushing when I read this, the feeling is entirely mutual for you and many other fine modellers we are fortunate to have grace this place so, I started to complete the fuselage sidewalls with the remaining structural details and some of the components - including the canopy retraction wheel - this is a superb pic kindly supplied by Jennings.. ..you can see not only the wheel, but the curved guard panel that covers the cables to it's right.. ..I made this up from PE and other bits, also made the map case and got them ready for priming.. ..the right side is structurally complete with mounts for various things, stringers, formers etc and that guard for the canpoy winder thing.. ..and the other side, which has a guard for the elevator / rudder trim control cables... ..after priming with mr surfacer, it was all given a basecoat as soon I won't be able to get in all the nooks & crannies.. ..temporarily mounted the wheel for the pic and added the map case - this seems to be in different positions on early models so I went with the one that gave most clearance with the seat.. ..the green seems very olive drab in the pics, but i think its the lighting or blue background washing it out.. ..still an awful lot left to do.. TTFN Peter
    3 points
  43. Thanks dudes! Sitting at a swim meet and thought I'd share some quick snaps I took of the IFR probe. Essentially made the antenna fairing on the base out of styrene stock. It actually bulges out on one side only. Mimicked the 8802 sealant on the various seams. Also sanded the base at an angle, as the Prowler's probe was canted to aid pilot visibility. The Intruder was straight up and down. Last little bit was to sand the trailing edge flat. Not sure how the Intruder was, but the Prowler was flat, not streamlined. Here's some great pictures from @jmel's Prowler Guide. Posted for fair use. Go buy it though, he's got all the details you need. Check out the amount of seam sealant everywhere! Also check out how used and abused the probe is. Every single jet I flew was dented in some manner. Most leaked, hence the copious amounts of sealant. It was always easier to just add more sealant after a pilot tangled with the Iron Maiden than it was to try and pull everything apart and find the source of the leak. Especially because a jet flying several hundred miles an hour could create suction similar to cracking the window of your car, which could never be duplicated on deck. Slap some sealant on it and call it good! -Peter
    3 points
  44. Moving on from the engine and its firewall mount, I’ve started work on the cockpit. Thus far, I’ve worked the floor, auxiliary fuel tank behind the pilot’s seat, and the seat itself. The tank is interesting as the real thing, made of layers of vulcanized rubber, featured a textured surface. I recreated this effect using strips of Tamiya tape. Much of the rest of the assembly is straight out of the box, though I did use aftermarket seat belts and buckles from HGW. As for instrument panels and the like, I prefer to do my own scratch building when possible. But I was so impressed with the work produced by Quinta Studio - an outfit in Russia that manufactures superb cockpit decals using additive manufacturing - that I decided to give that a try. It's a little less fun than working the details on my own, but the result is too good to ignore. There is just no way I will be able to produce the same level of detail without printing my own decals, and what's the point of that? A few more details on the dash remain, like knob and handles, which I will add after that piece is more fully integrated with the cockpit tub.
    3 points
  45. Yes and there is some play front to back.
    2 points
  46. I built it last month, really easy and quick build and looks good once complete - I finished mine in the green and brown scheme. Approach it like a normal short run kit and you'll be fine. There was not a lot to see in the cockpit once closed up, if I did one again I'd not be too worried about the detail of things like the guns as you can't see any of it. I was going to strengthen the wheels to wing joint with a metal rod but used CA glue on the joint and it's perfect. Decals went on fine, I did think about using masks however I'm pleased I used the kit decals. Once on, weathered and given a light coat of matt overall the effect looks good. Enjoy the build neil
    2 points
  47. WOW! It's plain to see that you did your homework on this and I hope this information gets read by others. One can easily imagine that somewhere in Russia there's a long forgotten box with all the documents and photos related to their work building their aircraft. It would be amazing if you did a WIP or at least a RFI with your extensive research. BRAVO and THANK YOU!
    2 points
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