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patricksparks

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patricksparks last won the day on April 1

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About patricksparks

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    new jersey,usa

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  1. Got around to finishing the pilot's seats added some Eduard B-17 belts. I decided to put the seats in 2 different positions as the kit comes with both seats all the way back to the bulkhead, I simply put a piece of styrene strip in the back notch of the left hand seat rails and knifed in a new pair of notches on the front portion of the rails, just thought it would look a little interesting.... Also started putting the Eduard engine set parts into the back end of the engine nacelles, I was going to glue them into the nacelles but I realized it was easier to glue them onto the wings, they line up right on one of the kit panel lines, left to right is simply putting the kit nacelle in place and marking the location with a pencil...
  2. Thanks Craig, the kit engines remind me of 1970s 1:72 scale kit engines, both rows of cylinders molded together no separate push rods, over-sized cooling fins on the cylinders, not very crisp looking. They can be used with some creative painting/shading. I could have bought some Vector P & W 1830 resin replacements but I didn't feel like spending $170 dollars on 4 of them and probably have to wait a month the get them in the mail !!! Thanks again, Pat
  3. google REZ-BOND, it's the solvent I've used at work for 45 years...it is fairly expensive, you'll find other brands, I just bought a quart for $34.00 including shipping from CASEWAY which is another brand. You have to be careful with these solvents when gluing thin styrene, it will melt it, leave sink marks..
  4. Finally finished the wings other than thinning down the ailerons which will be easy compared to what was already done. I have moved onto the interior which is quite a few parts, for the most part all fits good except for a couple of the small bulkheads in the tail and the cockpit bulkhead, floor and instrument panel need to be reduced in width a little for the fuselage to close up. Also put the Eduard cockpit set in . I wanted to make the engines look a little better, I had purchased HK models B-17 engine sprues a while ago when this B-24 kit first came out, figured I would use the props and tires, hopefully the engines... Well I was able to take the cylinder rings and cut 2 cylinders off cutting center between the adjacent cylinders , then I sawed a notch in between the remaining 7 cylinders about half way through the ring and then gently bent them all until I had a smaller ring and glued the joint where the other 2 cylinders had occupied. Worked well and I did the same with the push rods. Unfortunately I haven't been to work still, I could draw a new crank case in 3D really quickly that would look more like it should and print them.. I also have Harold's AMS propeller governors that I added.
  5. I was wondering if anyone out there has an image or drawing of an auxiliary bomb bay fuel tank used by B-24s or PB4Y-1s. Any help would be appreciated !
  6. I'm not sure what aircraft that I am going to do, I still have to get around the turret issues, I might go with an ERCO turret and do a PB4Y-1, not sure though.
  7. Glad to hear your still going to build it, much to my surprise the kit as is fits together very good, the interior has good detail, the waist section is really nice that Hobbyboss molded the upper interior walls separately so that the stringers and ribs all look correct and the parts fit really good !!! I like it !
  8. Thank you, great work on your B-17 as well !!!
  9. The attach photos show how much cutting down in thickness to the outer wings, I am holding the original thickness kit aileron in place as a comparison of change. This view is the wing tip with the kit aileron behind it. This is a view of the aileron where it meets the flap. Almost all of the thinning to the wing was done to the lower wing halves, the trailing edge in particular, doing this helps make the wing tip raise upwards at the back which is what it needed to do. I sanded the rib on the trailing edge at the tip where the aileron lives down to zero and sanded a constant taper on the rib all the way to the outer side of the wheel well box. Also the remaining spar on the upper wing halves have to be sanded, started at leaving about .040 where the aileron starts(I cut the spar off where the aileron starts at the tip) and sanded a constant taper to the wheel well box.
  10. Unfortunately this is only going to be a one up, when I started last week I knew that I was either going to make it work or it was going in the trash.... Sorry that I didn't take photos of what I did internally, I was just so caught up in trying to figure out how to pull this off without making a major mess of it !!!
  11. Have been trying to stay busy while not at work, my B-17D conversion has hit the wall, waiting for things to come in the mail, can't do any 3D drawing for printing until I go back to work...So I went into the storage room and brought out the Hobbyboss monster B-24... I've been putting off dealing with the wing issues, the root being the wrong cross section and the incident being off as well, also the thickness of the wing out to the tips and the wing tips needing to be more horizontal. I think I finally got it to a good place, a ton of cutting ,sanding, gluing , cursing and forced twisting.... The wings look nice and thin now out towards the tips and the roots look more like a Davis airfoil now. The wing tip is thinned way down, doesn't really show here, but the tip is about half the original thickness of the kit wing now, and if you look at the rest of the wing in the background you can see how much more horizontal the tip is in relation to the root. The root of the wing has been increased in thickness about .125" on the top , about 2/3rds the way towards the leading edge, I cut all the molded in wing ribs, on the top and bottom wing halves and left only the upper wing's main spar and some of the wheel well bay locating ribs, I made a new profile styrene "root rib" and glued it into the top half of the wing after some persuading "cold" forming of the upper wing halves without the ribs in them anymore, I also re-profiled the end walls for the landing gear bays to match the re configured arc of the upper wing . I had to also remove material from the bottom/front of the main kit spar in order to change the angle of the wing, bringing the center of the leading edge up about .125" from where the kit wing was located. The pencil lines on the fuselage in the following photos are where the kit wing was suppose to locate compared to the relocated and reshaped wing. Also I need to make fillets for the tops of the wings to take up the gap created by changing the tilt/incidence of the wing.
  12. Try this link, this is Harold who makes the AMS product line. https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/profile/4082-harold/
  13. I was going to do an RAF fort, but I had a change of heart and decided to build it as a "D" which the RAF didn't use, now I'm torn between natural metal, O.D. or camouflage ???
  14. Started to make some seat cushions from epoxy putty Looking at many photos of completed HK Models B-17s along with my own kits is that they appear to be "Too Long In The Legs" I think that the landing gear struts are made in the extended position with no load on them, I've decided to cut my gear down to a compressed state, looking at many photos of real B-17s the main wheels seem to be closer to the bottoms of the engine nacelles while on the ground than the kit struts allow them to be. First I cut the strut off at the bottom of the lower collar. Next I drilled holes into the ends of the upper struts to match the diameter of the cut off lower strut parts and then inserted them into the uppers and glued them in place and adjusted the height by eye, they are about 3/16" shorter now. This a shortened strut(right) next to an uncut strut(left). This is a photo of the shortened strut in place with wheels on,(left) and the un-cut strut(right).
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