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mc65 last won the day on December 27 2021

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About mc65

  • Birthday 04/13/1965

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    Sardegna, Italy

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  1. Aaaaaah!! would you please give us (me) the links, if any, for the wip of these beauties?? TIA, and sincere and unconditioned kudos, Paolo
  2. Wow, I hadn't seen the new zero hasegawa so far, it looks like a nice kit! Ian, if I may, about the rivets on the cockpit's rear deck, from memory it seems to me they were raised, not flush.
  3. I confess I went to look at the market for this kit, after seeing your work in progress. hard times and an attic overflowing with kits to do dissuaded me... but your information today about the cyclical price fluctuations at Sprue Brothers fills me with optimism!
  4. thank you all, pals! as anticipated, I proceeded with stencils and signs, but first I did some retouching to the upper part, especially in the engine area. having to realign the lines of the lower part (painted red and white after reassembly with different parts in the real one, according to my hypothesis) I took the opportunity to touch up the front annular cowl and the spots added later on the sides. to verify the contrast between the various colors and the effective alignment of the lower part, I presented the interested parts in position. and having everything in hand, I took a couple of shots to see how the prop fits with its spinner. as I imagined, little or nothing is seen of the radiator, too bad. but hadn't I installed a Henri Daehne prop and done all that magnet work? well actually... but how much do I like these resins? If there was a Nobel to aftermarket manufacturing I would be in no doubt who deserves one! well, there would be also other candidates, eh... let's talk about 1ManArmy products, for example, and let's enter the field of stencils and signs. I don't know how he makes them, but this Belgian craftsman produces sheets of kabuki paper on which extremely fine details are cut out. to test them I started with something relatively simple, the dotted lines that delimit the walkable area on the wing. it's a rather slow and demanding process, but definitely rewarding, compared to decals. oh well, you say, what's the point of making two pedestrian crossings? true, but those were just a test... the real wonder are the various warnings. I started from the largest and most hidden, but it was immediately understood that this is another level. now all the rest of the model seems to have been fished out of the differentiated garbage, in comparison! incidentally, the black cross is an Eaglecals decal, another test I wanted to do, having to use at least part of it. excellent quality and thickness, but painted it's another thing. while we're at it, let's talk about the rivets: I hadn't smoothed the surfaces to zero to take advantage of the thickness due to the process and increase the three-dimensional effect. here you can clearly see how giving seven thousand coats of paint didn't help at all... another lesson learned. gained some confidence, I moved on to the smaller and more visible stencils. what can I say but wonderful?? the overall yield is spectacular. yes, analogous results can be obtained with decals, depending on the quality of the decals themselves, the procedure used, and the skills of the model maker. here even someone with stone hands like me gets something more than decent at first shot! now the problem is that using decals, however good, seems to me a sacrilege, even if I'll have to negotiate with some. so I paint as much as I can, and only then will I move on to the decals. ancillary problem, both the 1ManArmy and the Montex sheets (which also produce a sheet of masks dedicated to the JV44) have insignia that do not match those of the Red 1, produced at the Fieseler factories, where they used their own measurements. that's fine, what's up. giant swastika and thin crosses rather than taking out the light table this time I preferred to build the masks by superimposing several layers of masking tape. doing this involves two risks: the thickness of the tape risks letting the paint infiltrate under the joints, and all this adhesive could be lethal for the underlying paintwork when removing the masks. I solved this with various expedients: I reduced the adhesiveness of the tape by placing it on the back of my hand before applying it; I went over the joints with a toothpick checking their adhesion with a 7-thousand magnification lens; I gave a quick coat of clear to seal the joints; I sprayed the paint extremely dry, almost powdery; and I prayed throughout all the process. aaaaaand.... there. what to say? so far I've been lucky, soon we'll laugh with the decals! cheers, paolo
  5. interesting effect! how did you get it? in all honesty, it gives the idea that someone with rubber shoes slipped on the surface several times, I think the signs would be more credible if shorter and mixed with others such as damage to the paint and dirt brought up by the shoes, for example. just my two cents, obviously! edit: when a picture is worth a thousand words...
  6. here I am, thank you all! where were we... masked everything, final check, and layer of white, after a light coat of clear to seal the edges. et voilĂ , it could have been worse, given the premises... there are a number of corrections to be made, obviously I managed to get some alignments of the strips wrong on separate parts such as flaps and cowl flaps. on the other hand, the fixed part of the flaps I managed not to screw up too much, here these need just some RLM 02. while the flaps to be touched up... let's say to be redone, which is better. and here we are, roughly. coming soon stencils and signs, I would say. cheers, Paolo
  7. Thunnus, me too!!! and you're too generous, I'm doing a job barely bordering on sufficient, with this model, til now... it's going like this, peace. Gazzas, thank you too very much, where I'm poor at modeling I try to make up for it with study... in this sense I don't think there are traces of oil: the tank is placed very low down, in this airplane, and they make little sense as direction. rather (and it's not just my guess, it can also be read in various captions) they seem to be traces of an attempt to destroy the aircraft by setting fire to the cockpit. so I think I won't reproduce them, choosing to make the Red 1 before the allied capture. well, strange green and dark green are ok, roughly speaking. I see a million tweaks to do, but I'm also impatient to play with the most obvious peculiarity of this aircraft, the red belly. so quick check on the prepared scratches, and way to RLM23! oh, hum. preshading would work, except that the aluminum base gives the red that nuance typical of Chinese enamels, a translucent metallic red that makes your skin crawl. I wrote it politically correct, indeed I cursed for a long time and abundantly, and in the end I had to give in to a coat of white to offer as a base for the red, this time in a classic and botched preshading. which didn't solve much... tired of invoking all the known deities and some invented on the spot, I played the improvisation card: I added pure red to 23. oh, it's starting to look like a red plane instead of china. pity that instead of the thin layer of color expected now there is a flow of mortar to plug the delicate work of the rivets. more curses. ok, modeling is suffering, and I'm a simpleton. however, since the belly had to dry and I had the red in the barrel, I took advantage of it for the little details that awaited him. mmmmh .... holy macro! I'll have to clean the glue smear off that trim tab. of course, all this could easily have been avoided with a slightly more provident planning, giving a white base, possibly preshading it, and then giving the red paint while protecting the white stripes. but no, too easy, and then in reality they gave white after red, right? or at least, this is my assumption based entirely on this photo, where you can see the black stencils on the red, but under the white. therefore the order seems to have been red, black, white, as if at first only red had been foreseen, but it was not enough to make them sufficiently visible to the happy trigger friendly flak. Oh well. go on. everywhere we read that these strips were different from each other and spaced a little randomly, but all the drawings -once the due proportions have been made- and the Hasegawa decals themselves give them the same for a width of 3.1mm. now if I take a round measurement, let's say 10cm, and divide it by 32, I get 3.12... let's say that the average strip was of this size, and we start from this figure to space them out, this time also following the photos. photos from which it is clear that they were not made with too much fussiness. I don't know if this is Red 1, but it seems clear to me that they are of different widths. but this one is Red 1, perhaps the only photo in color that has emerged so far. and here something is understood. but perhaps they are best seen in b/w, all things considered. ok, we know how wide they were on average, which ones were thinner and where they were positioned, more or less. now we just have to map them parallel on the model, and... parallel?? aaaaaw... on the other hand less worse, if nothing else. sigh. I didn't think it was such a messy thing. "I do a JV44 one, all colorfu and fun, a milk run"... calm. it's just a question of figuring out which ones were thinner than average, positioning them following the photos and drawings, parallel but not too much, and seeing if all seem to make sense. and then mask them in reverse, exposing only the stripes. it's a trifle. this is what I tell myself... then I look Moccio (Snot) in the eyes and I read a "you stupid" and animal instinct is known, it is rarely wrong. I-can-do-it. cheers, Paolo
  8. I'm a little perplexed about the ZM kits and their cost-benefit ratio, they seem too complex to me, with their very didactic internal details, but of little practical use. but seeing your Ki-45, and waiting for the HS 129, both planes that I adore, I start to think about it... I'm sure enough you already know the following photos, but having a folder "Hs 129" at hand, I hope to please you by posting them here. in case they bother you, tell me I'll take them off. cheers, paolo
  9. mmmh... so far I haven't been attracted by Quinta products, apart from the high cost, it seemed to me from the photos that the indexes of the instruments protruded from the frames. now this picture of yours is intriguing me, it looks really well done! From 1 to 10 what grade would you give it? TIA, Paolo
  10. thank you all, pals! Ernest, what about your P51B? did you completed it as per your daughter scheme? Well, finally some rain has arrived here, revitalizing the weed I've been giving up. hey, looking closely, it's not that far from the RLM82! can you see that at Reichs Luftfahrt Ministerium weren't entirely wrong? which then, coupled with the RLM 83, begins to make more sense, come on. it must be said that the red 1, although more than known and documented, still has sides to explore. here, in this sense, searching I found a drawing with that strange blob in 82 at the root of the right wing. very unusual, it would seem a poetic license of the author, except to better study the historical photos... huh, look at that?? seems to make sense... probably a paint retouch after a major repair, as well as the lighter leading edge, in which the band in 83 remains confined just beyond the wing main beam. in short, I give it credit, a pity that I don't also have the side views, for those I went a bit by feeling, always looking at the b/w photos and beautiful Jerry Crandall's drawings. for example, the spot at the base of the tail planes some sources claim is in 83, the same color as the one behind the cockpit canopy. but it seems to me darker, and it is highly probable it is a tone, if not a colour, different: the front one is from the factory, the other was made in the field or at the maintenance dept. let's also assume that they had the same color, it's almost impossible that they had the same shade, both for reasons of production batches and the aging of the previous one. so I used 81 corrected to darken it a little bit, and here we are. to be continued... cheers, Paolo
  11. It gets better and better! the figures are always an ordeal, for those who do not dedicate themselves exclusively to them (and try looking at a model made by a figure painter? ) but in any case they look good to me. about the underside, I agree, it's an area often forgotten by modelers, for sure by technicians! I like the speckling, if I have my say, I prefer to use the pigments dissolved in water, shooting them after the oil streaking. this gives me the possibility of not risking mixing everything together, of having a mixture as thick as I like for the dirt pulled up by the wheels, and above all of being able to erase and start again practically infinitely at will. when I'm satisfied (that is never, let's say when I get tired) I fix everything with clear matt. one thing that in my opinion makes this dirt more or less credible is the direction of the mud splashes: due to the rotation of the wheels and the motion of the plane, they will be mostly inclined towards the tail, only some will orthogonally reach the surface near the vertical of the wheel. one last thing: especially in tailwheels, a lot of the dirt ends up in the tailplanes, we tend not to think about it, usually. forgive the length, sometimes on Sunday I happen to recite the sermon! cheers, Paolo
  12. nice shot, find the decals! sometimes the search for the missing sheet approaches that of the holy grail! about the instrument panel, I take the liberty of giving my opinion: Eduard has done a great job on these, but today there are clearly superior products, like Yahu. sad to say, having a stash full of kit's boxes with their Eduard set within, but there is no game, IMHO.
  13. thanks, Gazzas! as always, in the painting phase I manage to make some mess. generally speaking 1) I'm not good with colors 2) I'm not good with preshading 3) I am mentally confused, if not disturbed and in fact... let's start from the beginning: trying to figure out what was the best order to paint this thing (below first, top first, wing first, etc.) I started without any logic, i.e. testing the preshading on the wing with lighter green, the RLM 82. little childhood memory about this colour: the Dora I did in middle school came back to my mind, an Airfix 1/72, for which I got the colors indicated, and which I painted with a lot of perplexity... but what kind of color is it?? oh well, let's say it can work. so let's go with the fuselage, which is the most uncomfortable to mask and paint. trying to interpret the available photos and crossing the known data, I made a whole mental movie to differentiate the light blue on the fuselage: the difference in color tone between the front cowling and the rest of the power egg is evident, indicating a possible cannibalization of the former. then we know that tail and rudder were supplied by subcontractors who supplied them painted with a lighter shade than the normal RLM 76, with scattered patches of 75; and finally that the red 1 came from JG2, so it had a nice yellow-white-yellow band at the tail which most likely was covered following a rather extensive maintenance operation before being given to the JV44. this last thing in the photos does not appear as a discontinuity of any kind, but we are talking about b/w photos from almost 80 years ago, to whom do I wrong if I paint this area a little bit different? in short, a lot of self brainstorming to get here: in the end, with all the stains above, how much will we ever understand? but, doesn't it look a bit dark, that 76? and indeed it is a 78. after a moment of bewilderment and a handful of sedatives, I stripped the paint off the fuselage down to the layer of Alclad with very fine abrasive pads and body shop paste. and tried to get some semblance of preshading. holy patience. this time, before doing further abominations, I did some tests, also considering the reliability of the AK real colors. because I'm quite perplexed about AKs, an example for all. a RLM 02 Gunze compared with the AK interpretation: so with an eye to the reasoning above and one to the color rendering of the various paints available, I gave birth to this masterpiece. meh. luckily it's just a hobby. sometimes I wonder what philately must be like, maybe I should give it a try. to stay brainstorming, I received this photo from a friend, which I can't explain: it doesn't appear to be any of the known JV44 aircraft. the absence of the mgs in the fuselage suggests a D11, but in this case the external wing cannons are missing. also the engine air intake seems to have a bizarre shape. any ideas? the landing gear leg in the foreground is also interesting: apart from the area of the stencils left in the original color, the compression of the shock absorber is clearly evident thanks to the offset of the white band on the door. cheers, Paolo
  14. maybe the test I did with different OD for the P51B may help? I used mainly Mr.hobby H-52 and AK RC024, using MRP just for highlights. in any case, expect a slightly higher consumption of color than usual... cheers, Paolo
  15. woops! John, you're right, I was so happy about the opportunity given by the Revell canopies, that I posted the wrong photo! here is the two late style ones some steps ahead, the temporarily installed one Hase, and the Revell in the background. some steps, I said... well, let's proceed in order. after gluing wing and fuselage, I encountered some fit issue, not recordered precedently. obviously the cause lies in my interventions in the flaps and undercarriage areas. for example, the central part of the landing gear bay previously fell into place with a touching "click". before... now, after a series of curses I had to detach it from the rear contact point and saw it at a seam front. to then reduce the internal thickness and remove just over a tenth in length to make it go in its place. oh, much better now. on the top seam there are a couple of imperfect spots, nothing that a little putty and abrasives can't fix. having the burrs in hand to work on the Karman, I couldn't resist just sketching out the air intake: above there will be a nice "nicht betreten" stencil, how can I resist?? after a bit of work with burrs and sandpaper, I fixed the wing-fuselage contact line, facilitated by the fact that in this area there are the doors for the wing cannons and the coupling plates which make the junction easier to manage. a coat of primer to check the goodness of the bodywork, and onother one of Alclad, only in the areas where there will be some scratches. another photo that adds nothing, if not confirmation of the elegance of the lines of this aircraft, before I go to devastate it with paints. here, in fact, goodbye to cleanliness and elegance. more than a classic preshading, I wanted to try a random one, made with black sprayed through a cooker hood sponge. on the belly even more heavily, considering the color that will go there. then hairspray and salt in preparation for the final colours. I'll close it for today with a shot of the quality control inspector making his tour. oh, he's got eyes everywhere, this one! cheers, Paolo
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