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mc65 last won the day on December 27 2021

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About mc65

  • Birthday 04/13/1965

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    Sardegna, Italy

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  1. well, since I really don't want to confront the ribs of the wings, I wasted some time with the propeller. on its own it is not hideous, but the hub is nothing short of basic, being a mere connection of styrene for the blades. in addition, the spinner is not the right one for the Mk.III, but no problem here, just slice it. however, before doing irreparable damage, I thermoformed a spare one, just to be on the safe side. then I replaced the axis with a section of brass tube compatible with the one inserted in the engine, and with the magic sculpt I built the central part from scratch, totally lacking in the box. I then added the coupling flanges and the propeller pitch counterweight system. all very much as it comes, because the spinner will cover everything. the only partially visible part will be the rear, where I put the bolt heads on the flanges. then on I tried an alu coat with spray can. I don't know how is stable and resistant at the next passages, but it cut drastically the paint session time! well, time to go to work on the wing. but why don't have a little talk about the camo instead? the only two photos available of the model I plan to make, MA * J serial V9673, show only the port side. from which few things are evident: the short spinner, the closed cowl flaps, the extended flaps and slats, the white-colored ladder rungs on the tread, the camo pattern, the mascot and the mission symbols on the fuselage. also the squadron letters, MA, are not evident, altough the J and the serial are well visible. from the pilot of this machine, as well as squadron commander and author of the book "we landed by moonlight", present in the group photo (the second from left) we learn that the machines, which were delivered to the squadron modified for specific tasks completely painted in black, were repainted in the upper part with the colors used by mosquitoes employed in the intruder role, that is dark green and medium sea gray. slightly better on these few evidences, I hypothesized a camo with this pattern, forgive the paucity of the graphic rendering Beyond the lack of desire to work on the wing, I think it is necessary to establish how to paint the model before proceeding with the final assembly, which will take place in steps: first I want to have the landing gear well glued, and only then will I proceed to connect the wing to its place. maybe I'll take some time to calmly evaluate the camouflage pattern, I'm not in hurry. meanwhile, any idea, information, suggestion will be welcome! cheers, Paolo.
  2. hi, today some steps ahead in the finishing of the engine: after a coat of black primer that should have highlighted some defects that I have not seen, and which are quite visible here, if only I had uploaded the photos to the pc before... I gave way to Alclad2. working with the star of the cylinders glued to the ring was a half curse, but I was more afraid of having to glue these parts after having colored them. for the first time I used AK extreme metallic colors, in this case bronze. excellent results, I must say. then I have further enriched it with shades of burnt iron Alclad, and I plan to insist further with smoke Tamiya, later on. then I placed the further details previously prepared: pushrod covers; engine block-exaust ring support arms; oil radiators air intakes. with an old, stripped brush I scratched off the primer from the brass bolts, and with ecoline I accentuated the shadows of the cooling blades of the cylinders. I then added the carters between the cylinders visible in some photos. if on the one hand they make the engine area less deep, on the other they guarantee that nothing can be seen in the rear, where there is indeed nothing. oh well, I have placed a little something, just in case... spark plugs with relative wiring, injection manifolds, tappets and relative carters. all recycled stuff: the collectors are welding wire with flanges of heat-shrink sheath advanced by the exhaust sleeves, the ring that supports them (which I need as a thickness to obtain the right longitudinal distance of the engine-canopy assembly with respect to the fuselage) is a section of conduit for exposed electrical systems. all painted without particular care, so - in fact - will remain buried in the back room. and in the end the big question: does it still accommodates within the hood, after all these changes, additions and tortures? so it seems... ...and the whole speaks decently with the fuselage? here too, it seems ok. to tell the truth there are some imperfections, but I plan to solve these as I advance. I have to say that even though it was challenging and far from perfect, completing this phase has enjoyed me a lot. and, since I had the airbrush in hand, I did a test of the two colors of the upper camo: Tamiya XF 81 and 83. in the next steps I have to solve the wing's ribs problem, then on it should be a downhill trip. cheers, Paolo.
  3. hi all, thank you all, this time I must say that it was not easy at all, to get me out of this chapter (which is not finished yet, of course). after defining and gluing the sleeves into the front ring as per the last session, I coated back them with their rubber sheath and with a segment of heat shrink tubing to increase the sense of depth and detail. then I began to worry about further details, like the support arms that go from the engine block to the ring, at the same time marking the position of the countless bolts that characterize the visible part of the engine. studying the photos to reproduce the air intakes of the oil radiators, I realized an error, visible in the photo below: the sleeves are the same for 7 of the 9 cylinders, but 2 of these, straddling the exhaust, have a sleeve for one that insists on the manifold itself. darn. moreover, they have a completely different shape from the others, and are also set back from the ring. so? Could I pretende to ignore that issue? Yes of course. I did it? obviously not. luckily I had printed two rings, so that I put aside the first one, in which I had set 18 pieces of iron with two components glue, and I started from scratch with the second one. I was not very happy with the unscheduled. it's okay that modeling is suffering, but here it is striving for martyrdom! anyway, let's say that now it is more or less good, so with a new exhaust manifold in magic sculpt and 18 new sleeves in place, I get back to the front details. the alu air intakes of the radiators seemed too small to me, so I replaced them with copper ones. here the external part of the collector looks gigantic, but it still needs to be corrected with files. what I needed was a solid rear end to match the original muffler, all the way to something like this: there is still a lot to do, but at least now I have a base to build on. once the gluing of the iron wire sleeves in the ring was dry, I coated them as for the first ring, and I added a finite but still high number of photo-etched bolts to the crankcase. to give as much shape as possible to the originals, I added copper wires to the air intakes of the radiators, using them as a structure for further grouting and definition of the volumes. as I am writing, phase 2 is drying up: collector-cylinder gluing. once this is complete, I will be able to start with the colors, barring complications. cheers, Paolo.
  4. Hi Peter, let me give my modest contribute about the canopy frames: I think the safest route is to do some test either with evergreen sheets and various alu tapes. the plasticard, when very thin, is pretty delicate and sensitive to glue, but once in place give the canopies that materic result one can expect. here you can see how a little hint of glue has ruined it. otherwise the alu foil replicates every imperfection, and with some type (the aeronautical high speed 3M, i.e.) the glue can be really sticky so be careful. the pro is that with very little effort is possible to add to it rivets heads and other details. so... it's up to you! but I have no doubt that with a few separate experiments you will come up with a neat and clean canopy. keep it up! cheers, Paolo
  5. hi all, having less time to devote to the workbench, I decided to face up the engine and find solutions for the various issues of that kit's part. the first one was the general aspect of the cylinders on the front face, solved by using the rear one to form a mould and do a copy in resin. the second one is the carters that cover the tappet rods: these have a peculiar shape, that I tried to emulate at first with a master to be vacuformed, and after with some evergreen profiles glued and filed. to accomodate these I had before to carve the proper channel in the upper cylinders. weel, green parts: vacuformed items; white ones: evergreen; and at 5 and 11 o'clock the channel exposed. finally I elected the evergreen ones. then I put these aside and inserted a brass central axle to accomodate within the prop axle and have a solid core to build around all the parts. the rear end of the external axle will be also the part that will guarantee a firm root to glue the complete engine and cowl to the fuselage. I'm still fighting with the front anular exaust ring and its 18 (!) stumps that must connect it to the cylinder row. assumed that this solution is acceptable, i have now to calibrate the exact* lenght of the stumps: from that depends the right position of the engine within the cowl, and the right distance of the full cowl from the fuselage. it's still a long long way... consideration 1: having on the stash at least another three kits that would benefit from an accurate bristol Mercury engine, it would make sense to explore the possibility to have a 3D print of it. consideration 2: this project is too far ahead in the "old school way" to benefit from any third millennium shortcut. consideration 3: at least i could use this one as a test bed to realize a semidecent master to be cloned fot future projects. consideration 4: I'm too fu**y lazy to even think at these possibilities. so, I think I'll do the minimum necessary to have just the front end of the engine in an acceptable general shape, and carry on. cheers, Paolo *well, more or less
  6. mmmmh... interesting! if I have well understood, you give a black layer betwen hairspray and last color? I totally agree that on a large scale the scratches should be "real" and not applied on the final layer of paint, but this approach to the shadows seems to me an idea to be explored further, thanks for sharing it. also, may I ask about the green you used for the cockpit? it's really appropriate for the P 47's office, very nice result!
  7. hi all, having in mind to build a Kitty Hawk OS2U Kingfisher to complete my seaplane trilogy, I was folgorated by this picture, and decided to try to reproduce it. so, waiting for the right mojo to start with the plane, I built the Cat. I decided that the 3 points in scale difference can be ignored due to the distance between the two subjects and the perspective that will work for me (I hope). the Miniart kit it's a 642 parts beauty, something that can drive crazy an impacient modeler. fortunately I'm just the opposite, a sort of zen sloth, so it was sufficient to follow the instructions step by step and carry on to obtain a nice solid base to play with paints. the kit it's fairly completed, I added the Eduard PE fret, but actually it wasn't necessary. I added to the kit just fuel lines, frontlamp guards and the glass air filter. to paint it easily, I kept it separated in main subassemblies til the end. with some extra attention it's possible to adjust the track tensionator, obtaining more or less sag on these, at like. I used lifecolors acrylics for the main painting, rely on oils for the weathering. the sole item missing for my purpose was a decent driver, so I made my little Frankenstein's monster assembling one from parts coming from several origins. after some trial and error, I arrived here. it-could-work! and since painting figures is my black beast, I forced myself to complete it during the building of the tractor. the three carters on the track tensionator are not glued yet, i have not yet decided wich is the best setting for these. also, the low part of the Cat deserves some more weathering with sand dust, but I'll wait until it will join its base, before attempting to do this step. I added a couple of Italeri jerrycans and a padlock, and i think I'll add some other little details, like rags, at the final disposal of it. either the track links will need to be combed, and again I'll wait the final stage of the diorama building to do that. all in all a fun building, if you're looking for something different, that's a really nice choice. cheers, Paolo
  8. thanks everyone! unfortunately I don't have much free time these days, so I danced very little around the kit, just the minimum to not miss the mojo. I tried to putty the frames where it was absolutely necessary, it is easier to walk on the eggs than to retouch 'this stuff. then I gave it some color to better understand the situation, and it doesn't seem too bad, I must say. then I brought forward the air intakes on the nose using the foil from a mayo tube, and the longitudinal strip visible in several photos in adhesive aluminum, together with the lower windscreen frames. in parallel I added some details to the interior: landing lamp switch, master fuel cock, computer stowage case. and on the opposite side the navigation/pressure head heating switch box, the morsing key and the rear occupants attention pushbutton. since I was embellishing I made the switches to activate the conversation with the pilot from the rear cockpit. a bizarre thing, given that very often passengers from France did not have the minimum specific training, so they did not know how to use the equipment on board, as well as parachutes. obviously these little things have fallen into the fuselage n-thousand times ... but since I'm smart just enough, and in any case the circular base of the IFF antenna had to be made, I opened a passage to recover them. and for today that's all. the good news is that the colors have finally arrived, the bad thing is that compared to the wing and the engine I'm still groping in the dark. cheers, Paolo
  9. Maru, it's a pleasure! just a little step ahead, not too much time to dedicate to the workbench, these days. after about 70cm of tape and several diopters, I covered the clear parts. now that I have protected (let's hope!) internal and external parts, I can try to touch up the frames, and then to give some primer. let's see in the next session if I have a chance to work on it. cheers, Paolo
  10. godo good good... today double session! I would say that tonight I also closed the transparent chapter, except for the navigation lights, but they do not worry me at all, in light of what has been done so far. I completed the rear sliding canopy, adding the inner tubes as far as they will be seen once installed. I could not put these all the way back due to the tight tolerances with the fuselage, although my copy is slightly oversized compared to the original. modeling's mysteries. with a scrap copy I made the front slide, a simple affair, if it weren't for the tracks on which it slides. however, even this one is finished. here you can see how easy it is to damage the 0.13mm plasticard... I hope to fix it with some mr. surfacer and if that doesn't work, aluminum foil here too. a general rehearsal to verify that nothing is missing, after having also installed the rear sliding rails... ...ok, I'd say we're there. here you can see the difference between right and left flank, both of the clear parts and of the fuselage. and go on. a wash with alcohol and a dip in the future. soon we will laugh at painting the internal frames! cheers, Paolo
  11. hi oh! small advancement: I thermoformed (without resorting to vacuum, simply by brute force pushing the form into the heated sheet with the heat gun) four examples of rear canopy. I chose the best one, and I installed the correct frame inside and outside, taken from photos and drawings, therefore very approximate, but I still think better than the one proposed by matchbox. while I was there I stretched the lower edge, in order to have a match for the track on which to slide, a detail obviously omitted in the kit. obviously there is still a lot of work to do, but the bulk is done. cheers, Paolo
  12. I mean... to rectify that issue I should have to disassemble and destroy what I have done so far, and being unique parts I would have to redo them from scratch, also risking damaging the site in the spat. I'll simply live with this shame, moreover in such a perfect model... to be 100% honest, I should already have done those lights again... look at the real thing: you can see that the bulb is bigger, the bulb holder is round base, not square, and the circular inspection door is flushed with the spat. ah, and the parable is much more bright and shiny than the mine. better forget this chapter and carry on with other horrors... e.g. the cockpit's greenhouse. the kit's parts are as thick as a glass block wall, so I have put them aside (in the bin) and I'm trying to redo them with lids of food trays and plasticard. obviously they have a shape of their own, and they are also different from right to left. did I already mention that modeling is suffering? ok, let's say that roughly we are. mating with the rear slide also seems to be fine. but, but... what isn't good *italian terrible blasphemies* is the trend of the longitudinal frames of the sliding canopy! here you can see how they converge towards the tail, while those of the kit are parallel. *again, loudly* okay, I'll try to redo that canopy as well. form this time in plaster, which last night I didn't want to play with Fimo. from here on, fingers crossed, please. modeling is suffering, but also patience and perseverance. I can do it, uh-uh. cheers, Paolo
  13. thank you all! Joachim, thank you too, I went to see excellent Max's work on his Tiger Moth. I know that Archer product, but I think that rivets are more suitable for the surfaces of the Lysander, on page two of this WIP there are tests done on the elevators, and I'm quite satisfied with the results I obtained. the trouble is that I ran out of rivets! there is an order on the way, but these will not be enough, I did it just to replace my stock, I didn't intend to use these for the wing. now the decision is from do another order (and wait more or less a couple o months) or find another way to achieve that effect. meanwhile, on the mc-workbench... I assembled the landing lights on the spats. I think I may call these subparts done and ready to be installed on the fuselage. some time after I glued on the transparent covers , I observed that the glue has ruined a parable, the one in the foreground. too fu§§ng late to remedy. next life. cheers, Paolo
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