denders

The decals are on but the wings aren't attached yet. I thought I'd add a picture of the sailplane with the Hellcat.

Thanks Maru. It's wingspan is greater than the Hellcat that I still have yet to finish but it 'feels' so tiny.

Another update. When its in my hand I feel like I'm building a 1/72 model. It feels very small. Perhaps I should call it Rudolph.

Looks like an update today. Perhaps the person who handles doing the updates was on vacation. They sometimes need one too. Dave

I don't think Future has anything in it that could be considered a solvent. I don't use Tamiya Paints, so what is the solvent in X-22? What might it do to the plastic? Dave

Another update. I need to make some slight adjustments to the wing holes in the fuselage. There's a little bit of putty to go in the sprue attachment points in the fuselage and to check the glue joints. T-tail needs to go on. Then prime, paint white, paint the red nose, and decals. The aircraft I chose will have a red nose, blue aircraft numbering, and fluorescent orange on the rudder and wing tips. Thought I'd get as many colors in there as possible.

I guess the hack caused my post to go missing. I had commented about trying Archer's decal based rivets. I had noticed a couple weeks back that Sprue had shown them in their 'what's new' listings.

A bit of an update. This one has fallen seriously behind.

Some progress. Long skinny wings. One of my reference photos looks like the wing tips can be interchanged. I can see what looks like a panel line at the separation point. So, you can change it from a 15m wingspan to 18m wingspan. I've chosen to build the 18m wingspan. The joint needs some work because it looks a bit too wide. I'll have to create a mask for the canopy because it will be installed before painting almost everything white.

That link pointed out to me that there is a Book 4 (first item.) I have Books 2 & 3. Book 1 was long gone 'til I bought 2 & 3. They are great to look at.

So, what are the red objects hanging on the "Air Force" bird?

No. The acrylic makes a barrier so the white spirit won't affect the color coat. If you're using a panel liner for example, the usual method of cleaning up around the panel lines is to use a brush or cotton bud slightly damp with white spirit to carefully clean up the surface next to the panel line. The wiping action could affect the original paint. Some methods of using a wash include using that slightly dampened brush or cotton bud to make "adjustments" to the opacity of the washed area. If you put down a layer of acrylic, it would be possible to gently remove the wash if you don't like it and start again. Do a test, paint something with enamel paint, let it dry, paint half of the test with acrylic gloss, then dampen a brush or cotton bud with white spirit and wipe at both areas.

The AK web site states that the Washes can be thinned with White Spirit or Odorless Turpentine. That would attack enamel paint. If you put a layer of acrylic gloss or semi-gloss on before the washes it will protect the paint. Most other brand's washes (Mig, Tamiya, etc.) are also enamel paint based. The same if you just mix up some oil paints to use for washes.

I have a Sotar and I found that if I wanted to go really low pressure, below 10 psi, it was easier to keep the pressure up a little and adjust a MAC valve that was right in front of the air brush, on the air hose.