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My Hasegawa FW-190A-8 in Heinz Bar colors.

Well, she’s beginning to look like a Stuka now and totally awkward to handle on the bench! I’ve has to use a fair bit of filler, not sure how much of this was me, the kit or just the age of the old girl. I think I the fuselage would have been a click fit, but something was restricting it closing on the bottom of the fuselage around the cockpit. Try as I might I couldn’t find the gremlin so had about a 1mm gap along the bottom. The tail plane fairings caused an issue too - my fault again, I was test fitting them and pushed them too hard and they wedged tight with another gap, stuck fast and I couldn’t get them off again . All ok now though. Can’t wait to get some paint on! Teaser shot: Guy

Hi Guys, Here's the result of a three year build! OK, I'm telling a lie: started three years ago, sat on the SOD then resurrected late 2018. The interior is painted with GSi Creos Mr Color, all the exterior with Mission Models Paints. Plus Flory Grime Wash, which I think worked well against the natural metal finish, not as stark as Black. I used Mission's metallic paints, all over their Grey primer. I just don't like the Black base, Alclad (or similar) faux metal look. Bashed too much metal in the RAF to hate that sort of finish. I mixed and matched the metallics, trying to shade as near as I could to the references. I found a drop of Mission's Chrome could really brighten up an area, either mixed with another metallic or misted over a selected area. Lots of quick and dirty masking, lots of tears, frustration, problems and then the flip side: problems solved, lots of laughs at my own ineptitude and a heck of a lot of fun and enjoyment. That is, after all, the point of modelling in the first place. The Frank is depicted as a captured aircraft as tested at Clark Field in The Philippines, complete with US radio fit (blade aerial) the guns in place but the gun sight removed as per the reference photos. All external markings are home made - Stars'n'Bars drawn in AutoCAD and cut in Oramask 810 on the Silhouette, the lettering on the tail below S17 are my first attempt at printing decals, certainly won't be the last! This is my third NMF, all based on photos of real aircraft. My Mustang C and D models depicted Test Aircraft from the Texas and California Plants, so this model continues the themes of NMF and testing. Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Regards, Bruce Crosby

hello guy's my last one just finish ..... P40b trumpeter (my second one and the last one ) cockpit resin cutting edge , wheels resin , photo etched Eduard , model master gun's , Eagle strike decal for the shark mouth and roundels , all numbers as well as the green circle are painted because the decals fell into pieces in the water..... painting cocktail humbrol gunze and tamiya divers wash pigments , and watercolor pencils for the weathering the 75 white squadron leader Bill Reed for fun with the comic book and dedication of the author best regard Pascal .

Schrodinger’s Tamiya? In the closed off box either the new 1/32 Tamiya kit is alive or dead? Replace the vial of poison with some Tamiya Extra Thin Cement.

You're welcome.

ok next episode in this saga! at first i thought it was me... but after 2hrs!! yes 2hrs trying to install 2 pieces i come to the conclusion my modelling skills arnt that bad pieces R19, 20 are the inner exterior intakes,, this is where they fit naturally look at that gap! you have to warm and twist the plastic to sit in the proper place on the exterior (thank god for EMA plastic weld!!) however this leaves a hell of a gap on the interior, but this is actually correct as the instructions tell you to fill the gap can you see all the other seems ive had to pull slightly apart to get this done so after that monumental battle, the sides come next and guess what? im telling you this kit will send me to a loony bin!! on investigation, this bit fouls the side on BOTH sides and has to have the top section trimmed back and now she fits well near as damn it more soon if i can take the stress

Time to pick up this build, I still need to make the diorama base. Initially I just wanted to do a base with some concrete and grass. Then I got to thinking, maybe it would be possible to incorporate some details that would resemble some characteristics of 'Fliegerhorst Grove'. So I contacted a fellow modeler/historian Dan, who has been researching some of the German installations during the war. He could share some interesting information on the runway's and aircraft revetment hideouts at Grove. One detail is the rainwater drain of the runways... Another detail, are these special concrete slabs, used with the aircraft revetments and in other places. These concrete grass slabs 'Rasensteine' are still lying around in many places, and are even being sold off second hand... An idea for the garden perhaps? Of course I could not resist this. I have been working on a master for the 'Rasensteine', which will enable me to cast as many as I will need... This is the sketch I'm working from. Using aerial photos from 'Grove' for the concrete parts and a proposed layout of the 'Rasensteine'. For previous dioramas I've used plaster or sandpaper, but this time I will try to pour the runway with real concrete... Lets see how this turns out, just had to try... Cheers: Kent

Hi Guys, A final round up of construction and painting photos of the Frank. I had a real hard look at every photo I could find of S17 and came to the conclusion that a US radio had been fitted during testing and the aerial mast and wiring had been changed for one from P-51D or similar late US fighter. It's the blade type which actually has the cable inside the mast, so no external aerial wires. I robbed one from the Revell kit that I'm trying to chop back to a B/C featured elsewhere on these pages. Profimodeller brass guns with MMP Grey Primer Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Profimodeller guns painted with MMP Cold Rolled Steel and a wash of Black in the recesses. Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Gun in place. Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Landing gear doors and a leg with added lead wire brake hose. Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Tail wheel Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Main gear leg: Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr More test fitting: Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Gear on: Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr And the flaps: Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr More to come! Regards, Bruce Crosby

Hey gang! I had 4 days home so i pushed forward because i will not have alot of time at hand the next coming weeks. At this stage we have arrived to the inevitable, the woodgraining, which i actually enjoy very much! For the woodgraining i have used Uschi Van Der Rosten woodgrain decals as usual but this time i have taken my time to choose the one i found most pleasing to my eye. I was initially going to go for the Ronny Bar version, but then i decided to go for the knotless 'Barnfind' version which later received a couple of glazes of ochre mixed with burn umber to get more of a honey tint to the woodwork. Sealed everything in and then attached the HGW photoetch parts using Krystal Klear of which the excess was then wiped clean with water. On the woodwork i used the HGW nailhead wet transfer set which worked but with the loss of quite a few heads, but it still looks all natural to me. The detail is very refined and can only be seen when you look up close. Next build i will probably use the rivet set plan and will rivet the albatros with the RB riveting tool to accentuate the rivets further. The kit stencils worked a treat snuggling down with some mr softer and setter but the big skull was a real bear to get down even with those and with a hairdrier. To try to weather the big white expanses and the skulls i used micromesh to abrade some of the surface and give it more of a used look. The nail lines can be seen through the micromesh treatment in some of the areas which i found to look nice. Bear in mind i have not started the weathering on the fuselage yet and what i am doing now is just preweathering which i will accentuate at later stages in the location and amount that will tie everything together. I have also built a new flare rack from a spare piece of pe which i have drilled and scribed then bent and the flares are made of 0.7 albion alu tube. In the Iphone photos in the gallery you can see a wire with the cap on one of the flares but that turned out not to be correct after further research of era photographs and reference material. This has since been discarded. Alot of little things have been added overall and work goes on fixing things here and there and slowly adding stuff along the way while keeping an eye out on the references... One thing of note which has bugged me quite alot is i found the elevator control rigging to have popped off the rigging flywheel at the extreme forward part of the control column and this has somewhat blown the wind out of my sails to say the least. i will try to find a way to get this fixed whenever i have time, if it is within the realm of possibility... let's see !DISREGARD THE LANDING GEAR IT IS FROM ONE OF THE OTHER ALBATROS I BUILT AND IS USED JUST TO PROP THE FUSELAGE UP FOR THE PHOTOS! At the point of writing this, and for next update i have completed a scratchbuilt windscreen and frame, changed the landing gear molded on retainers on the leg for more accurate ones with resin bolts and leadsheet, finished decalling the fuselage completely and have started by modifying the top wing to take Bo's 3d printed see through radiator! EDIT: and the leather coaming fasteners which i forgot to mention! Thanks for looking in! Ryan, for you specifically i have inserted a photo of the woodgrain pre glaze and post glaze so you can see the difference in how it tints the base coat. It's like a filter but a bit heavier in terms of oil paint content. I use quick dry thinners and a hairdryer so basically after half an hour and a couple of hairdryer sessions, i gently blend everything in with a lintfree cloth and the brushstrokes disappear and it all feathers in, then i lock it up with a coat of lacquer clear. hope that helps! Above pre-glaze Above post glaze (Ryan!)

Hi Guys, More pics of final assembly: Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Note the US blade type aerial mast behind the canopy. Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr A totally shameless plug for Mission Models paints. They really suit my method of painting, which as you've probably gathered by now, is Chaos with Colour! Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr Hope you like it. Regards, Bruce Crosby

Yeah, this is what I was looking at replicating. There are a lot that look this way but I still have some work to do. Doing some work on the landing gear bays... Thanks for stopping by... Bryan

Today update. Fuselage before surfacer. 1/2 wheel bay ready to paint.

Well I need at least two kits. My father flew the Fouga in the Armée de l'Air at Cognac or Aulnat air force bases.

Got some paint on. I was having some issues with my H&S infinity, it was difficult to get a tight line as I had before. I ordered a new needle and nozzle set with helped but I was still having issues. The biggest problem was I kept getting tip dry and the brush just wouldn't spray well. I've used this brush for about 10 years and it's always been great to use. I'm using MRP and MR Color paints which are always fantastic. I did see on a forum that some MRP can be a bit more finicky but who knows. I just kept at it and got it the best I could. I didn't like the MRP color for the dark areas that are FS 36081, it was more brown than dark grey. I tried to lighten it but it turned into a weird shade. MR. Color wasn't all that much better so I ended up mixing up some colors on my own. MRP lightened All colors on but they are too dark. Getting these colors right was more difficult than I thought it would be. A little weathering and masks make with my silhouette machine. I am so glad I got this thing! I was able to lighten up the paint by spraying a very thinned coat of light grey. I used darker paint to do the touch ups that are on the real AC.

Hi all, The pre-rigging is done now so it's time to fit the upper wing, Mike

How about 2 on cats and one on the deck: Jari

Well, I recently discussed with a large aftermarket company the release of that item. The result is that I'm currently gathering all the technical data for them. So, that lack of accessory will disappear in the future!

Thanks mate. Coming up with solutions is my favourite part of the hobby and it keeps me interested. I have completed preliminary design work of the logo on the exhaust FOD cover. Using studio software I traced each component of the logo individually based upon colour and then modified each part to suit the way that I felt the machine would cut it best. Here is the enlarged design with all the elements together. I then shrank the design to size the diameter of the outer circle to 17mm. Each part was separated again and placed into its own mask area ready to try and paint this. The design is pushing the machine to its limits, and these elements will need some tweaking to ensure that it sprays well. Hopefully it works! My idea will be to spray the yellow and cream of the circle and shield, black outline of the design, yellow cross with its dark yellow outline, outer yellow 3, blue wings and inner 3, yellow outline of the eagle wings and head and and then finally the white Southern Cross stars.

Jaaay ... everybody knows thaaaat ...

Not sure I get that line of thinking really. Is every model maker capable, just not willing to have a go at what you describe? No, of course not. Every modeler has his reasons for doing or not doing something model making wise. Making assumptions about others and why they do or dont do something is a slippery slope. I am one of those "bemoaning" the turrets. Not every modeler can be stuffed into one single definition of what and how they model. Not knowing any other individuals situation and reasoning for NOT doing these things can lead to a lot of assumptions................. Can I make them myself? Yes. I have vac experience, as well as milliput and master making experience. Im not an expert, but I do have the knowledge. Do I have the equipment? No. I made my own vac machine a year or more ago for another project, but it has since been torn apart to use the parts elsewhere. Do I have the desire? HARD NO. After pulling my own vacs I have ZERO interest in messing around trying to pull my own vac clear parts. Other parts of the turrets, easier but not the clear parts. Do I have the time? HARD NO. Between work and life I get a scant amount of bench time, and Ill be damned if Im going to spend it doing something I hate. I have way too many other models in my stash, and other things to do to spend it doing something that is not only unnecessary, but not fun in any way shape or form for me. You must be an expert at pulling clear vac parts, or can accept less than perfect parts..............either that or Hubert and I must have been doing something wrong. Between the two of us, we pulled more than 20 copies, and the discard rate was about 10 - 1 as far as bad to good pulls went. I got there in the end but pulling acceptably clear vac parts is not an easy proposition for most. Id say you might want to give a thought or two to others reasoning for not messing with this kind of thing. It may have absolutely nothing to do with lack of effort or laziness. Sincerely, A painter / assembler

Damn Guy, just fabulous, you are the master. Makes me want one! Ryan

Ok ladys and gent's, Now that i have to wait to finish the swordfish it's time to start another animal, a kingfisher this time. When i saw this one for the first time I immediatly fell in love. What a beautiful airplane. It is my first Kitty Hawk kit so I don't really know what to expect. Off course I have read some WIP's so I know there are some things that require some extra attention. Bottomline is that it is just some plastic with a little PE so wat can go wrong? Of course i have some PE for this bird. In fact I have the Big Ed set and that is al the PE there is. I really like the PE but sometimes I wonder what Eduard is thinking. Flat ignitionwires?? In my opinion they can leave this behind. I have rather no ignitionwires than flat ones. I will use leadwire instead or copperwire. The color scheme I like the most is the one below. Instead of the yellow wings I will intend to paint blue wings, like the boxart. One thing that I don't know is what brand of paint Kitty Hawk uses for there kits. I will use Mr Hobby Aqueous but i would like to know if I have the correct numbers. Those anyone of you guys know what paint they use? I will keep you posted with weekly updates and hope to make this my best model (as I hope for each model ) Thanks for watching Ferry

Hello, This is my Canadair CL-13 Sabre Mk.4 in the AMI “Aeronautica Militare Italiana” markings of the 4° Squadron “Aerobrigata” based at Pratica di Mare (Rome) around 1960. HISTORY Originally produced by North American, the italian Sabre were produced by Canadair and sold to the Royal Air Force. When the Hawker Hunter arrived in the RAF, around 180 Sabre, designed F-86E(M), where transferred to the AMI. Within the AMI the Sabre was the first ever jet with swept wings and was used only in the air defence role. THE KIT The Sabre kit in 1/32nd was originally produced from Kinetic and reboxed by Italeri. I don’t have the Hasegawa kit, but many modellers say that the Kinetic Sabre is a “copy” of the Hasegawa’s one with recessed panel lines… Overall details are good, there is a nicve stressed skin effetc all around the fuselage and wings. Panel lines are a little bit too deep. As extra parts I’ve used Eduard PE sets for interior and exterior and a resin ejection seat from Avionix. I’ve added some details as hydraulic pipes to the undecarriage bays and legs. Paints are acrylics by Gunze and Tamiya range. Squadron markings, serial numbers and stencils are from Tauro Models decal sheets. A couple od RBF tags were added to finish the model. And now the pictures! CIAO! Piero

Hi, This is the first box. I must have been about 15 years old. So some 43 years ago. It stood in the shop's window for many weeks/months. And then it was gone. Sold ! I didn't have enough money to buy it. Together with the Spitfire,Hurricane and Me 109 it formed a quartet of Battle of Britain kits. The same box art was used again later but without the swastika on it. Unsure about the first release date

Some updates: Here, I need to post my thoughts on the Kittyhawk kit: Despite being the best F-5 kit on the market, the kit has several bugs, some hard to believe. It took me a lot of time removing seams and injection marks. But I managed to make the kit presentable in those respects. The most annoying thing was correcting Kittyhawk's unbelievable decision to split the rudder into two parts in the middle of one of them. This, coupled with the poor fit of the small part, does a great job of filling and sanding the splice. And to make matters worse, on the other side of the rudder there is a recess on the surface of the part, in the exact local of the split, which requires more filling and sandpaper. after correcting all this, I will have to rescribe and rivet practically the whole tail, to take it to the correct shape. There is still a round embossed panel at the tail that I can not figure out where it came from, because it does not exist in any photo or in any F-5 design. More sandpaper ... the fittings are very bad, but it's still easier to fix the kit than to rescribe the panel lines and rivets, as is required in the old Revell kit. I will not describe the other errors of the kit, because they are already known by all, thanks to the comments posted on the topic where the kit was studied. Now, the updates: First, the corrections maded in the cockpit tubs. I believe they are now closer to the originals. Still need to paint and add details and aging, but are already in the correct form. The assembly is already well advanced. Soon we can reach the painting. Here the results of the Chaff bump removal: And the cuts maded to take the Leading edges to the correct shape to the Brazilian jets. Tail: The sides of the fuselage uppes sides with the corrections and instalations needed: Here one attempt to get a acceptable panel. I'm drilling the holes, to after use the suppied decals from behind, to mada the job. If the cockpit PEs arrive here at time, I will replace the upper part of the panel with them. In the nozzles, I decided to improve the interior. as he did not want to buy the PE set, very expensive to use only this piece, I decided to do the piece in scrarch. For that I used aluminum from a can seal: Then, I scribbed the internal lines with the rear of one blade: Then, I made the rivets: This is the final part: Then using a round tool to made it round: and the application on the kit parts: The final results: These parts not need to be glued becaus they will be fixed by the nozzles. One of the modifications that intrigues me most is the surface of the metallic finishing pieces in the nozzles and the plates to their rounds. They should have a metallic finish and have positive rivets, which does not exist in the kit, except for the resin nozzles supplied with the kit. I tried several solutions, including aftermarket positive rivets set, which proved to be useless, because the rivets applied thus disappear when they are painted. They are very thin. The best solution was to pass the riveter hard on the part and instead of sanding the excess plastic, I simply applied a piece of bare metal foil, which left the part with the desired finish and the positive rivets. Here the tests maded in the nozzles of the hasegawa kit, quite modified in scratch and using some parts of both kits. More to come... Thanks, Paulo.

6 complete submunition dispenser SUU-30 CBU-54 H/B “late” with decals & photoetched parts, post Viet War, late Cold War until 1991 Gulf War. 10,00eu

im not giving up, i spent too much money on this to give up now

I'm not convinced its a turd yet, please continue Mark. Ryan

Sorry to hear about troubles with HIPS. I'm persevering with it, but haven't built anything that big yet... Cracking project!!!

wow, I knew this wouldn't be shake n bake...but damn!

Yeah, you might want to kill that kit with fire before it lays eggs and breeds. So glad I’m not wanting a Hornet in the stash.

Just found this. Pretty cool, especially for a retired RCN guy like me... even though I served well after she was decommissioned. Dave/Ironman1945

Yikes! With a competing kit that seems to have more accuracy and way, WAY less fit and buildability issues, and only holding a scant advantage in the PP dept................I cant see this kit taking off sales wise.

my last built, enjoy :

What a lovely response! Thanks reconspit, it was the Luftwaffe scheme that had me sold from the beginning. Thank you Dan, I see the MiG bug has bitten you too! Grazie Luca, and thanks Robert! Nick, I knew you of all modellers would prefer more restraint with the panel lines. I'm afraid some stayed prominent because I think they get opened up a lot... Karl, If anyone intimately knows about modelling a MiG-29 - it is you. Your comment is the highest praise I could imagine - recht herzlichen dank! Glad you enjoyed the WIP mongoose, sure took a while. The Dude, I assume that's you in your profile pic? Looks like you know a thing or two about the Fulcrum, so thanks very much for the compliment. Now I'm going to wait for Eduard to put all their research to use, and make us a MiG-21 in 1:32 scale Sean

Common colors used on aerodrome structures appear to be the very similar to 81 Brown/Green, 82 Lt. Green on Luftwaffe aircraft with a different paint formulation, of course. I have a color photo of a building on a Luft airbase using close to those 3 shades. Color is not perfect, but it gives one the idea. Source: Die Flugzeugfurer-Ausbildung der Deutschen Luftwaffe 1935-1945 Band II, by Sven Carlsen & Michael Meyer; VDM (Heinz Nickel Verlag); 2000; p. 569, top. Cheers, D.B.

I had to cobble decals from 4 sets to match what I needed. Some of them were too light but a super thin coat of grey brought them all together. Still to light but better then before. This one is from Fightertown F/A-18 sheet. Yes I broke off the tail probe like I have done with every other F-16 I've built. I forgot to post photos of the exhaust. I think it's a bit too gold looking so I still have some work to do. Do you guys think the color is off? The kit comes with an extra pedal part and of coarse I glue the wrong one on (the one without decals). I had to pry it off and glue the correct one on but luckily it didn't mess anything up.

A bit of progress made this past weekend. I hunted around online and ordered some inexpensive DC motors that were a good fit and relatively low RPM, and had long shafts, plus a 2 cell AA battery pack - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077T2W8RC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. With two AA batteries, they should be turning around 3500rpm. Still a bit too fast, but close enough. Test fitted into the nacelle: Made a jig to get the shaft as perpendicular to the nacelle front as possible: Modified a kit prop to test it out: So far, so good, but here's where it gets tricky. The kit prop is pretty well balanced, and turned smoothly. But since the kit prop is the most poorly shaped prop EVER, I won't use it as it comes. I have some props built up for my L model build, using the GMF prop blades and hub with kit spinner. To be honest, the GMF blades are too narrow at the base, but are WAYYY better than the kit prop, so using that as a guide, I modified a kit prop to improve the blade shape. Much better, but the kit prop blades are too narrow at the base as well, and can't be correctly shaped without adding material to them. Left - modified kit prop, middle - unmodified kit prop, right - GMF blades. Left - modified, right - unmodified. Comparison of my modified blades to GMF blades. You can see that the modified ones are even more narrow, and the GMF are already too narrow, so not happy with, despite the vast improvement over the kit prop. The other issue is that modifications to the prop in any way, throw off the center of gravity and make it wobble a bit, so I'm going to have to do a lot of trial and error to get them right. On top of that, the early conversion nacelles in the Cutting Edge set make the round part of the nacelle slightly larger than the kit spinner, so I will need to adjust that as well. Oh, and I experimented with reversing the polarity on the motor, and it works, so I can make the props counter-rotate as expected. Pretty cool! Tim PS: does anyone know where I could find a set of Contact Resine props and spinners? I would like to try a set of those.

Part of the fascination with WWI aviation, for me at least, is the fact that no one really knew what a winning airplane design looked like at that time. Everyone was making all kinds of designs all over the map, and evolution had yet to weed out the bad designs and home in on the good ones. It gives us a world of rich diversity to model. It reminds me of earlier times in Formula One racing, where the regulations weren't nearly as strict as they are now, and you could easily identify the different cars even if they were in silhouette form, b/c they all looked quite a bit different to one another. Each maker was going down a different experimental development path, and no one was quite sure what the winning formula was. The early '90s were a good era for that, for example. Good luck doing that with the current F1 cars; paint them all black, take off the sponsorship, and tell me which is which!

Last set for today IMG_1093 by Ernest Roth Close up showing the throttle, trim controls and I think the fuel mixture knobs as well as a couple of gauges and panels IMG_1095 by Ernest Roth Medium distance shot showing scratched wire bundles, you can just make out the far bundle. Probably won't see much of them in the finished pit.

IMG_1083 by Ernest Roth Close up of the IP. I still need to do some minor touching up. The molding was a bit soft in both the left and right lower areas of the side panels so I was not able to replicate a couple of the gauges exactly. IMG_1087 by Ernest Roth Rear of the Radio/Radar rack with a few scratched electrical lines made from copper wire. IMG_1090 by Ernest Roth Close up of one of the side panels waiting for weathering IMG_1092 by Ernest Roth Another close up of the right side of the cockpit

Here is another 16 photos of the test shots from the IPMS Belgium facebook page ! Super cool ! Availability : September 2019 Click on the small blue ''F'' at the upper right corner to saw the photos. SharkOwl Reference :

Thanks again boys. Ive actually made some adjustments to the camo on the elevators again. I put a couple more symmetrically shaped spots on the tail, to better match the wings, but at this point Im happy with it. It IS different than the original leopard spot camo, but this is a what-if and wanted to do something a bit different. I also know sometimes the Germans did put different types of spots or camo in different places on the aircraft, so I feel this one is at least plausible. I actually sprayed the black on last night too after dinner with the fiance and kids. I always seem to screw up small masks with tiny outlines on them; in particular the hakenkreuz mask. I know its not going to turn out to my satisfaction, so Im in for some cleanup on that one Im sure. At the same time I shot the black for the underside masks and hakenkreuz, I shot the "Otto" on the port side fuselage. All that is left for paint markings wise, is the RLM 04 for the oak leaves in Marseille's victory crest, the victory marks for the rudder, and the yellow "14". Once that is all shot, its down to shooting a spot of gloss for the JG 27 insignia decal, and then maybe some light stencil decals.

Just a small life sign... my bench time is very limited at the moment, but I decided to start the CAD drawings of the instrument panel to get used to working with Inventor again. The panel is in a very early stage, most details have yet to be added. I am planning to prepare as many interior components as possible in 3D and to 3D print them or to have them CNC machined once ready.

Last update until after the next business trip and just for a chuckle... here is proof that even the mighty can leave something out. In this case, the cutout in the decal for the second bomb rack. No complaint as it was an easy fix after this decal was applied. The lower fuselage is fully decalled now, will post more photos when I get home Thursday!

Style and grace you say? The pinnacle of aerodynamics and speed? Then they need to step up and put out a Stipa-Caproni.......

I wish they'd do something with some style and grace ...

I'm very impressed by your build Kent! Especially those cameras. Are those from AIMS? I guess the rig for the camera is scartch-build - did you have any plans for this one (regarding dimensions)? Regards Joachim