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ade rowlands

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About ade rowlands

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  • Birthday 11/21/1981

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    Buckley, UK

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  1. Depends on how heavy your trigger finger is and how big an area you need to paint I guess. But MRP is very thin but gives great coverage, even light colours over a dark colour. You really dont need to use much. For things like RLM66 or RLM2 and British Interior Green (their version of US interior Green is the only one I've found I didnt like, a little too lurid for my liking) cockpits I'm still on my original bottles after 4 or 5 subjects in 1/32 single seaters with enough for a few more subjects in each. A 1/24 Hurricane in the Brown and Green top, Sky undersides took maybe a quarter bottle of each top colour and a little more for the sky underside as it was the whole underneath rather than patches like the top sides. All over a Black primer. I find I dont use a bottle any quicker than my previous Gunze Sangyo paints I used to Airbrush with and still do for use for some colours not available in MRP like the Japanese colours or their US Interior Green which I'm much happier with. I dont know how much MRP costs per bottle versus other brands where you are. It's fairly easy to get hold of from suppliers here, or if they are out I go direct to source and order from MRP directly.
  2. MRP for me. Especially now he's releasing more colours in his aqua range so I can brush paint touch ups that need to be made after airbrushing the bulk of it (must let the Aqua paints sit in a palette for a bit to dry a little and thicken up, they are super thin from the bottle). Anything else that needs to be brush painted however, I use Vallejo model colour paints. Like Max I've built up my MRP collection over a couple of years, buying what I need for each project plus the basic primary colours. I've only just made the switch to the MRP clear coats after finishing off the Alclad ones I had. Still using Alclads for my metallic colours though so cant comment on the MRP versions.
  3. It’s in a Marseille book I have I’m sure. Plus a Red tail with a few kill marks so likely his.
  4. Well I built it to the instructions, exactly as they have it set out and the engine bearers interfere with the separate gun breech cover, as does the instrument panel coaming and parts of the machine guns themselves. Which is why I went and got rid of them all. When I realised they got in the way. This isn’t my first go around with this kit and I’ve attempted the fix a few ways and got to the same sort of result. Poorly fitting cowls if you want it glued shut. I haven’t pushed too much in the gun breech cover part as I thought maybe I had done because it all lines up perfectly straight the way I’ve done it. If I’d pushed it down too much and squashed it I’d understand the issues I’m now having with my cowl being too tall. It seems fixing one thing causes problems in the other areas. I know it can be done. There’s photographic proof. What I need to do next is test the size of the spinner back plate to the opening in the nose it should back on to. If it fits as it should then I can’t take a saw to fix the cowl height, if it’s small I know I’ve gone wrong somehow, though I really don’t see how because all I’ve done is glue the 4 parts that make the lower cowl, 2 exhaust panels and the side panels/top cowl part together as they should be done. Liquid cement and no pressure so the shape wasn’t thrown out. This yellow nose B*stard is really turning out to be a proper B*stard too.
  5. Haven’t solved the Cyber Hobby kit cowl closed up problem after all *shakes fist* Thought I had it solved, but no. I had basically built up all the 4 cowl sections separate from the fuselage with the engine block placed inside as a sort of power egg. Damn thing is too tall and not by a small margin either. At least the thickness of the top or lower cowl depending on where you want to look at it so a good 2/3mm that you can’t really do anything about because it will make everything else look out of proportion. I’ll look at it again when I’ve got a couple of days off with fresh eyes. There may be a solution I’m not seeing after sitting down with the damn thing after working 12 hour shifts. There’s just detail to be lost all over those cowls if I take a saw to them. Hmm. Back to Hasegawa 109’s. My auction win G-14 arrived the other day. To be made up into the Hartmann scheme on the box top. I did get the 1/24 Trumpeter G-6 late to convert and attempt the same scheme. Just lost the will to carry on with that one when my own scratch building wasn’t up to standard. I have the 1/24 G-2 kit to do at some point.
  6. I have the Saturn V, a Millenium Falcon (not the super expensive one) the collector series Slave One, the Collector series Snowspeeder, BB-8 and a Y-Wing and yesterday’s addition, the Lego Technic Porsche 911 Gt-RS which is huge. The Saturn V kicked off this latest addiction. Loved the stuff as a kid, spent hours with the Lego. There will be more to come.
  7. Yeah I’m 37 and yesterday was spent building a Lego. Wasn’t even for my Nephew. It was mine. All mine.
  8. I’ll say this for the Cyber Hobby E-4/7 I know this thread is about the Hasegawa kits but if you want an E-4/7 I’m currently building my 4th go at the Cyber Hobby kit. If you want cowls off it’s superb. If you want closed up it’s a sanding shimming hacking bits off nightmare. But does look good with a big yellow nose. I’ve basically taken 4 goes to get it to a place I’m happy with. Each one has been a progression in working things out. I’ve basically eradicated the engine bearers, made nothing of the engine other than the block and that’s only to stick the exhaust to. The cowl gun deck has been more or less taken out from the gun barrels backwards, including the gun breeches. The instrument panel can be done away with as I have or can be made to work with some contour sanding. Other than that front area it’s a nice build with a nice cockpit.
  9. Well I'm no expert. I've only built the F-4 version so far and found it an enjoyable build. No tail insert, thats a plus. theres some filling to do on the cowl and and sides, just some panel lines that shouldn't be there and its called out in the instructions. Some ejection pin marks in the radiator flaps need eradication but thats not a major job. I'm not sure if the spinner is correct where the G was off. I have a couple of G-6's in the stash with lots of add ons, new spinners and whatnot. I dont think the F version needs anything per say but im an addict to theres stuff ready to throw in the kit boxes when the kit's arrive (ordered 2 F-4 versions last week). I am tempted to get the Buchon conversion for one of the G-6's and see if Pastor John is still going ahead with his G-5 bits and use the other G-6 for that. We shall see.
  10. I do go on the occasional rant like the guy in Downfall. Usually caused when I go to work and the guy on shift before me hasn’t wiped down the kitchen work surfaces and left a coffee mug ring that or they’ve used the last copy of a form and not sent for resupply.
  11. Maybe a filter coat over the main colour too. Many are available from the usual places. Oil paint dot filtering after the flat coat might work too. I’ve sort of looked in to these things because I have a 1/24 Hurricane to finish with the half black half white undersides to do at some point.
  12. Maybe for a bit of variation rather than one solid colour overall play with the primer colours underneath. I remember a long time ago someone doing a nightfighter, may have been a Bf110 and they primered it and then pre shaded with all sorts of colours, blues and browns and greys if I remember correctly. Haven’t done an overall black aircraft myself yet though.
  13. Theres also always the option of NATO Black and even the Rubber Blacks. I tend to use the NATO Black when a kit calls for a Black cockpit. Never tried a whole paint scheme in it though. I use the MRP Paints version but its likely available from other companies too.
  14. I have stippled Mr Liquid Putty before now. Similar method to Mr Surfacer. Let it go off for a couple minutes and go at it with an old paintbrush. Works for the coatings on US Navy bombs too.
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