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sandbagger

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sandbagger last won the day on January 3 2020

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About sandbagger

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 12/12/1949

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    http://igavh2.xara.hosting

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lincolnshire, UK
  • Interests
    WW1 aircraft modeling.

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  1. Yeah initially it looked strange, but after priming it looks better. My original photo showed the Hornet head on the Model Kasten figure and they were different in colour. That and the angle I took that photo made the head look stranger than it does after priming, Mike
  2. Hi all, Unfortunately at this stage of the build I've realised that two of the four interplane struts have no reinforcing rods, which are needed as otherwise the resin strut will bend and break easily. Normally I would make replacement struts from brass tube, but the end fittings of these struts are square in section, which would be difficult to replicate. The customer service from Richard at 'Aviattic' is second to none so I'm hoping he'll be able to find replacements for me. While I'm waiting for replacement struts I've started on the figures. The pilot figure is the ‘Copper St
  3. Hi all, Just a few updates. The lower wings with the twin flying wire anchors are fitted. Also two 'plates' have been made from spare photo-etch and fitted to the wing roots. These plates may have been step plates or access covers to the rigging anchors. I've assembled the landing gear (wheels only test fitted), but its yet to be weathered etc. The 'bungee' suspension cord is EZ white (heavy) line and bracing wires added but not yet tightened. I've added between the front and rear struts the axle restraining cables, made from 0.4 mm annealed copper wire. Mike
  4. Hi all, Well that's the pre-rigging of the anchor points done now. Mike
  5. Hi all, An example of pre-rigging a twin flying wire anchor for the lower wing roots. A combination of 0.08 mm and 0.15 mm diameter mono-filament and 0.4 mm and 0.5 mm blackened brass tubes. All together there will be sixteen various types of hinged rigging anchors to pre-rig before the wings are fitted, Mike
  6. Hi all, I've finally applied all of the required decals. Accurate cutting out of the decals is necessary for the wing coverings and alignment of edges is necessary. Slight overhang of dried decal was gently sanded away. Weather, although slight, was done using 'Flory Models' Dark Dirt fine clay wash, sealed with 'Alclad' Semi-Matte lacquer. Now it's onto fitting the photo-etch rigging anchors before pre-rigging is carried out. Mike
  7. Hi all, Some modellers think photo-etch 'is your friend' :eek2: Here are the wing and strut rigging attachments plus the aileron control levers. All are photo-etch and with self-aligning 'hinged' anchor plates for attaching the rigging lines. Mike
  8. Hi all, The basic fuselage is now complete, apart from the windscreen and flying wire anchor points. The final display will be the aircraft undergoing engine maintenance, so the engine front twin cowl panel will be removed. I’ve added the coolant/vent pipe from the rear of the radiator header tank, made from 0.5 mm tube. Two bracing lines were fitted between the forward fuselage cabane struts and an inverted tubular ‘V’ frame, which was attached to the insides of the fuselage and over the top of the engine camshaft. This was made from formed 0.8 mm diameter tube with ’GasPatch’ resi
  9. Hi, Thanks for your offer of photographs. I think I have it covered but I'll sure PM you if needed, Mike
  10. Hi Eric, Yes it's quite common for some resin kits to suffer from distortion after a period of time. Metal rods at the wing roots aid in supporting that end of the wing, but not the outer area of the wings. Unlike styrene, resin moulded parts don't have 'memory', which is why I think good manufacturers of resin kits secure the main parts on boards/cards in the kit. It's probably why distorted resin parts are more easy to heat treat than styrene parts, to get them back in shape. Also thin resin parts are brittle and easily broken, hence the use of metal reinforcing rods
  11. Hi all, Just a quick update. The 'Aviattic' fuselage wood effect decals have circular access panels printed, but these look rather ‘flat’. Therefore to raise these panels and make them stand out more, I added extra decals. I'm now working my way through the fuselage photo-etch, Mike
  12. Hi all, All fuselage decals have now been applied, including rib tapes for the fin and undersides of the tail plane and elevators. Now it's onto the various photo-etch details for the fuselage and weathering etc, Mike
  13. Hi all, The model is supplied with decals for the various nail lines on the fuselage, produced by 'HGW Models'. These are intended to be applied onto the wood effect decals. These nail line decals will shown on lighter coloured surfaces, such as on the unpainted fuselage of an Albatros or Roland fighter. However, they are more or less invisible on a darker background, such as the wood effect decals used on this version of the 'Balilla'. Therefore instead of using the decals, I used a 'Rosie the Riveter' (0.75 mm) to create by hand the nail lines, using the decal illustration as a gui
  14. Hi all, The 'Aviattic' supplied wood effect fuselage and tail unit decals have now been applied. Not too easily carried out as the decals need to be accurately cut out from their sheets as they're not 'cookie' cut. They've all been gloss coated as the next step is to apply the 'HGW Models' nail head decals. Then it'll be adding the remaining decals and all of the photo-etch details, Mike
  15. Hi all, Dry fit for the engine and turtle deck, Mike
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